bulldog and lab mix puppies

Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for New York Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in New York? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in New York? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. It's perfect for families and is actually one of the most popular dogs in the country. This popularity stems from many things. Goldens are totally family oriented. They'll blend right into yours. If you've got kids, the dog will play as long as the child wants to. These dogs are gentle when necessary and athletic when called for. They love to swim, are proficient at obedience training, perfect for therapy uses, and are extremly eager to please. These are sociable dogs that are just fine around other pets and people. They're very friendly and love to play fetch. Perhaps a little too much. If you're searching for the perfect family dog, you can't go wrong with the lovable and affectionate Golden Retriever. Continue reading to learn more about the Golden Retriever, otherwise known as a Golden. Popularity: Extrememly popular. Trainability: Easily trainable for obedience training and therapy work as well as hunting, retrieving and swimming. Energy Level: Medium to high energy, enjoy outdoor play and swimming. Temperament: Very affectionate, great with both children and families, wonderful and trusted companion. Necessary Space: Suited well for smaller areas, such as apartments and houses as well as a variety of larger areas. Talents: Admired for its uncanny ability to retrieve waterfowl ducks, birds while hunting, great swimmers. Life Expectancy: years. Group: Sporting group. A few terms and phrases to describe the typical Golden Retriever puppy and dog: retriever, hunter, friendly, reliable, intelligent, kind, trustworthy, confident, popular, loyal, sociable, good with children, good with families, trainable, obedient, swimmers, lovable, eager to please. Find Golden Retriever puppies for sale near me. Search our free Golden Retriever dog classifieds ads by owner. Find Golden Retrievers wanted, to adopt, and better than Craigslist. Life Span Did You Know? The Golden Retriever has been an AKC-recognized breed since and was commonly used as a gun dog and for retrieving small game such as waterfowl, and for companionship. The Golden Retriever originated in the Scottish Highlands. The first Lord Tweedmouth, Dudley Majoribanks, is credited with developing the breed and keeping detailed records to create the ideal gun dog for the terrain. Great discipline and a gentle spirit make the Golden Retriever a perfect retrieval breed since the goal of this task is to bring the trophy back as undamaged as possible. Golden Retrievers first appeared in dog shows in at a British dog show. They also started appearing in the United States around the same time as they were brought across the Canadian border. They gained popularity with sport hunters and in general. Their popularity really took off in the s and they are consistently one of the most popular dog breeds. If you are not the sporting type, bringing a Golden Retriever into your family as a pet is just as rewarding because they are one of the most loyal and jovial breeds out there. One of the facts about Golden Retrievers is that they are the epitome of friendly and make fantastic family dogs. Golden Retrievers are considered one of the friendliest dog breeds. They tend to be good with kids, other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. Goldens love attention and they bond closely with their families. They are affectionate with them, and also just about everyone else. Although they do tend to get along with everyone, they love being around their favorite humans the most. They will bark to alert you and can end up barking a lot if you do not train your dog to stop barking early on. Golden Retrievers are highly adaptable dogs. They thrive in homes with yards where they can run. They can also adapt to apartment living as long as they get enough daily exercise, mental stimulation, and attention. These dogs do well in just about any climate, but are sensitive to heat. As one of the most affectionate dog breeds , they are not at all happy about being left alone for long periods of time. Although super-friendly and attention-loving, Goldens can also be sensitive to their surroundings; make sure they feel included, but have a quiet place to go if things get too noisy or overwhelming. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a Golden Retriever include progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts, elbow dysplasia , and hip dysplasia. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of the parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Goldens are considered one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. They are highly trainable dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please. These traits make them a good fit for owners of all experience levels. It also helps them excel at obedience competitions. As one of the smartest dog breeds , Golden Retrievers can get bored easily. Because they pick up things quickly, they can get bored with too much repetition in training. If your dog has mastered the command, move on to something more advanced or another activity. You can also enroll in puppy training classes for some variety in training and also some socialization. Golden Retrievers have a long double coat that will shed a little year-round and will be heavier twice a year as the seasons change. Brushing a few times a week and daily brushing during seasonal shedding along with a bath as needed is usually enough for at-home care. You will want to go to the dog groomer for a professional trim a few times a year, especially as the seasons change. Nail trims once or twice monthly keep nails from growing too long. Daily tooth brushing, along with cleanings at the vet when needed, is ideal. Golden Retrievers are one of the most active dog breeds. Daily walks plus some playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough to keep these dogs happy and healthy. But, they are high-energy dogs that will likely always be up for more activity if you are. Much like the Labrador , they also tend to have an extended puppyhood. They tend to start winding down a little around the age of 3 and settle into your lifestyle, but they will still be high-energy dogs that require a lot of daily activity. Goldens are known for being versatile and athletic dogs. They tend to love swimming. Once they are done growing and the vet clears them for higher-impact activities, you can try other things too. They are one of the dog breeds that make good running partners. You can also teach them how to play frisbee or play fetch. Training for dog sports is another good option. In addition to obedience, Golden Retrievers are well suited for agility, dock diving , rally, flyball, tracking, and more. Fully-grown Golden Retrievers usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Golden Retrievers generally live for years on average. With their intelligence, eagerness to please, and gentle disposition, Golden Retrievers are versatile working dogs. In addition to being one of the dog breeds that make the best service dogs , Goldens can be found working as emotional support dogs, certified therapy dogs, search and rescue dogs, military dogs, police dogs, animal actors, and more. Featured Golden Retriever Article.

Their coats are both fawn and brindle. Fawn is a yellowish-brown type of color, and the addition of dark stripes to it leads to what is commonly referred to as brindle. If you ever spot a boxer that seems to be black in color, you're probably looking at a sealed brindle specimen. When boxers' classic black stripes overwhelm any fawn elements of their coats, they're often called sealed brindle boxers. While brindle coats are often fawn with darker stripes, they do appear the other way around, too -- with deep brownish basic coats and conspicuously paler streaking. Note that white markings can appear in brindle and fawn boxers alike. Not all boxers have white coloration, however. White markings on boxers typically show up on their feet, faces, stomachs and chests. When boxers have particularly sizable white markings, it gives them a predominantly white look. Thick Stripes The stripes on brindle boxers' coats vary in thickness. Some of them have markedly slender stripes, while others have notably broad ones. A sealed brindle boxer with a black appearance often has an abundance of thick black stripes. When these stripes are so plentiful and thick, they essentially "seal" all of the fawn components out, hence the descriptive naming. When sealed brindle boxers look black, pinpointing any fawn coloration that might be there often becomes a pretty tough task. Black Masks Outside of boxers with primarily black coats, dogs of this jovial, spirited and dedicated breed across the board generally have some black facial coloration. This black coloration, somewhat unsurprisingly, is usually referred to as a "mask. Other Key Coat Details Boxers, regardless of specific coloration, have extremely short hair with a coarse texture. Their coats are also glossy. Significant brushing generally is unnecessary for dogs of the breed. It can, however, keep their coats looking shimmery and healthy. If you want to keep your boxer looking tidy as can be, brush his hair on a daily basis. Boxers tend to enjoy brushing sessions, according to Cari Meister, author of "Boxers. Boxers shed a lot in the spring and autumn months. There is a lot of talk about black Boxers dogs; some potential puppy buyers will actively seek out this colored puppy, but their searching is in vain. It may be hard to believe it when you see photos, but black boxers do not exist — the color gene responsible for black coat color does not exist within the breed. Brindle is a pattern of color, it is a striping effect. With most brindle Boxers, the dark stripes are clearly over a fawn background. However, with Boxer dogs that appear to have a black coat, this is due to super heavy reserve brindling. In fact, it can be so dark and so thick, that you cannot see any fawn beneath it. This gives the dog a very dark coat that does indeed appear to be black. Here, we'll go into the facts a bit more to talk about why black cannot exist with the breed and some myths are swirl about regarding this perceived coat color. Why Colors are Misinterpreted It is very easy to see a dog and immediately assume that he is a certain color, based on what your eyes are telling you. However, with some breeds, the Boxer included, you must take a second look. It is sometimes only when you realize how brindle can cause an effect of sorts, that makes a first impression of black, that it starts to make sense. In addition, some Boxers are given the term of black; however, in many cases, this is a shortened term that comes from longer 'black brindle'. The base color of all purebred Boxers is fawn. Brindles are actually fawn with a brindle marking. Those markings are made of a pattern for fur consisting of black striping which covers the fawn… Sometimes just a bit lightly brindled and sometimes a lot a heavily brindled dog. A black Boxer with white flash? Your eyes are playing tricks on you. This pup is super dark reverse brindle with white markings. Cassandra, 5 months old Photo couresty of Christopher Many wonder if perhaps there were black Boxers that were mostly bred out of the lines and that perhaps now and again a dog with a black coat shows up somewhere. However, if we look to the record keeping of the past century, we can see that this is not the case. In this year time period, a black Boxer appeared once, however there is a catch to this. In the Germany, in the late 's a Boxer was paired with a mixed dog that was part Bulldog and part Schnauzer. The resulting litter had puppies that had black coats. Since another breed was introduced into the bloodline, they were not purebreds. These dogs were not used for any further breeding and therefore did not have any influence on genetics going forward. Once in a while there will be a breeder that claims to have black Boxers and will point to this one incident long ago as evidence that black does indeed run in the bloodline. However, since those mixed dogs with black coats were never used for any sort of develop program this simply does not hold true. Another element that shows that this coloring does not exist in the Boxer line is the rule that the Munich Boxer Club created in .This group had stringent control over breeding and development of Boxers in Germany and set the guidelines for the standard, conformation and all elements regarding appearance including coloring. This group did not wish for any experimenting to be done that would introduce the color black and for this reason they made a clear rule that black Boxers would not be accepted. Some make the argument that programs may have ignored this ruling and still attempted to breed black Boxers. However it would have not been in their best interest to do so and additionally, any resulting dogs would have not been part of the Munich Boxer Club since they couldn't have been registered there. This means that any such hypothetical dogs could not have genetically been included in the Boxer's bloodline since they would have been barred from any programs that were developing and perfecting the breed. So, now that we know: This color does not exist in the line The only record of any black Boxer in the last century was a mixed dog and not a purebred Guidelines and strict rules of of the club in Munich that was the foundation of today's Boxers clearly excluded black Boxers.And it is also fair to say: The chance of there being some odd, rare gene mutation that brings black into the coat is extraordinarily rare; mathematically the odds are so low that this can be ruled out Black Boxer puppies cannot be born due to a hidden gene; this is because black is dominant over all other colors. It cannot be recessive, it always comes out over others Why are some people still adamant that this coloring exists? Diesel, at 2 years old Photo courtesy of Brittany Calvert This leads us to the conclusion of only two possibilities in this regard: A 'true' black Boxer simply cannot be a purebred. It is assumed that in this case, it would be done to sell the pups at a higher cost. Some elements to ponder.Their registration papers do not have that color code as an option. Therefore, even if someone verbally dubs a Boxer to have a black coat, the dog - if registered with a recognized club - would officially be another color; and that would most likely be brindle. Since the pup would be handed over to new owners with papers stating he was not black, how can they simultaneously claim to have black Boxer dogs? And this of course, is very unethical. In Summary Every being whether it is a mammal, like a dog, human, etc. These genes determine everything about the being, from skin color to the number legs to where the eyes are.Genes control coat color in dogs, too. In order for a dog to be black, that breed of dog must contain the gene for having a black coat. Boxer dogs do not have that gene. So, there cannot be any black Boxer dogs. It is genetically impossible. A Boxer that is black, or true black with brown points, for example, MUST be a mixed breed or a heavily brindled dog.

Why Cross Chow Chow with Poodle?? What other things do those mixes bring in the breed? Poodles, Goldens, and Labradors are all hunting dogs with high energy. Breeding two hunting breeds only increases the high energy both breeds already have, as well as increase the chances the dog could have separation anxiety since many of those breeds are prone to that. Most people buy these types of doodles but have neither the time nor the energy to give them the exercise they need. Poodles also need a lot of daily companionship. They suffer from loneliness and separation anxiety if left alone too much. Goldens: These dogs can be a bit needy. Not needy in the sense of maintenance, but attention. Since Golden Retrievers suffer from separation anxiety , they need to be in a household where they will have constant stimulation and people around. While this is often just an aspect of their temperament, and something often loved, it can become problematic. Goldendoodle are good dogs but not for everyone, preferably for active Family. Since the Chow Chow is not a destructive breed and independant, it can make a dog more balanced and that will not suffer from anxiety and without the tendency to destroy your furniture. They get along very well with anyone, kids, and other animals. Chowdoodles are highly intelligent and learn very fast. You can see it for yourself when you visit and read all of our testimonials on our website and comments on our Facebook page made by them. We know it, but don't just take our word for it, ask them. They are your best resource. If a Chow Chow Mix takes after their Chow parent, they will be a large, fluffy dog with a protective instinct and an independent nature. Chow Chows tend to be naturally aloof and independent dogs. They do bond with their humans and are affectionate with them, but they also like to do their own thing. Because they have a protective instinct, they are naturally suspicious of strangers. As such, socialization and training are essential. If the other parent breed has similar traits, then you can likely expect the same from a Chow Chow Mix. However, the other parent breed will likely introduce other potential traits in the mix, so you do want to ask the breeder about them. You can also meet the mother dog in-person to see what type of temperament she has and what behavior she is modeling for her puppies. The Chow Chow is a moderately adaptable dog breed. They enjoy their space, but can adapt to apartment living. They are more sensitive to heat and prefer cooler climates because of their thick coat. If they are in a home with a yard, it should be securely fenced as these dogs can become territorial. Mixed-breed dogs can sometimes be healthier than their purebred counterparts. However, there is no guarantee. A mixed-breed dog has a chance to inherit conditions common to one, both, or neither of the parent breeds. From the Chow side, potential health conditions to be aware of in a Chow Chow Mix include hip dysplasia, allergies, elbow dysplasia, and thyroid issues. Reputable breeders will be screening their dogs to avoid passing issues on to puppies. So, you should be talking to the breeder about both of the parent breeds anyway. Make sure you ask about their health and genetic history. You can also ask about any tests that have been done and to see those results or health clearances. Although a Chow Chow is a highly intelligent dog breed, they are also known for their independent nature, which can make them extremely stubborn. Training a Chow requires a lot of patience, skill, and consistency. As such, they do not tend to be a good fit for novice owners, and obedience classes are recommended. The other parent breed could introduce some traits that would make a Chow Chow Mix easier to train. A Chow Chow Mix can inherit a coat that is similar to one fo their parent breeds or a coat that is a combination of both of them. Should they inherit the Chow coat, it will be very thick and very fluffy and need a lot of maintenance. Chow Chows shed heavily as the seasons change and will need daily brushing during this time to prevent tangles and mats. This also helps keep loose fur contained to a brush and will help a Chow feel more comfortable. Outside of seasonal shedding, brushing a couple of times a week is sufficient. Bathing is recommended on a monthly basis. Brushing teeth or using an enzyme toothpaste every day is ideal dental care for dogs and can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Although a Chow Chow has a moderate activity level, they can sometimes be lazy, which is why they are prone to weight gain. Generally, daily walks plus some moderate playtime or activity is sufficient for this dog breed. The other parent breed in the mix could affect the activity level of a Chow Chow Mix, so you want to make sure you ask the breeder about them. This will give you a potential range of exercise requirements to prepare for in a Chow Chow Mix. A fully-grown Chow Chow usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. The other parent breed will have an effect on this, especially if they are the mother. Although it is not a guarantee, you can also meet the mother dog in-person to get an idea of what size to expect in a Chow Chow Mix. A Chow Chow generally lives for years. The other parent breed may affect this slightly, but you should be able to expect a similar life span in a Chow Chow Mix. Currently, we do not have any Chow Chow Mix puppies available, but we can alert you when new Chow Chow Mix puppies are available! Just enter your email address and click submit! Please enter a valid email address! Related Breeds.

Kat Wednesday 23rd of November I put a comment up here a couple of weeks ago and it was deleted. I said in it that this was the best combination I have ever had. I love how snugly they are but they are just as ready to play, go hiking, and walks are the best for them. They are a great combination. However, as with all breeds health testing is a huge factor. Each breed contains issues. Having health testing is extremely important. All dogs can have issues. My older lab is 13 and having issues with his back legs because he was slammed into injuring his back and knees by our young "purebred" St. Bernard who ended up passing at 4 due to cancer and had juvenile arthritis. Our Baby Girl the labs sister was born with bad front legs and with treatment and lots of love lasted until .A family member has a 10 year old "purebred" Pom who has horrible knees that was cheaply purchased from a breeder. Or my neighbor who picked up 2 Great Danes. One for free because the "purebred" breeder bred a double merle gene and caused him to be born without eyes and with many health problems. It has cost over 10k to keep him alive and he's now 6 years old and relatively healthy. It's important for people to understand that whether it's a "purebred" or "mixed" dog it's important to ensure the dog or the dog's parents are health tested. Stop promoting cheap puppy mill prices because those are the dogs that end up dead young costing the families thousands. If you are looking for a dog save up for the initial purchase and do your due diligence and research the health and cost. Depends on what we want at the time. Kat Tuesday 15th of November I absolutely love this combination and currently have 3 of them. They are so snuggly when it's time to rest. However, because they have longer noses and better breathing they are fast. My older male gives our Australian Shepherd mix a run for his money. Our others are just as fast. They get the major zoomies leaving us gasping for breath through the laughter. When we sit down they are right there for snuggle time. However, I do not agree with their price listing. They are healthy, active, smart, and well balanced. Some of the best dogs we've ever had. I highly recommend this breed and hope someday that this can be a breed in and of itself and no longer considered a "designer" dog. I do hope they can come up with a better name for the breed rather than French Bullhuahua. It just sounds designer. If a German Shepherd can come from a wolf type dog and a working sheep herding line then a Bullhuahua can be named something better. FrenchieWiki Community. Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. Click here for more information on this characteristic French Bullhuahua Highlights The French Bullhuahua is a mixed breed dog. They are not purebreds like their French Bulldog or Chihuahua parents. The main colors of French Bullhuahuas are golden, brown, white, brown, black, brindle, merle, cream, and tan. Sometimes their coats are solid, and sometimes they have a mix of colors. French Bullhuahuas are generally considered to be a good choice for allergy sufferers. Their coats are very easy to groom. A good brushing per week will probably do. French Bullhuahuas have medium-to-high energy levels. Make sure your dog gets at least one good half-hour- to hour-long walk per day with a few good, active play sessions and shorter walks mixed in. French Bullhuahua dogs prefer to be mostly around adults or older kids who know how to play gently. Early socialization, however, can help them get along with other pets just fine. French Bullhuahuas can be a bit stubborn and take to house-training slowly, but for a consistent owner, their loyalty and desire to please will help training go a bit more smoothly. French Bullhuahua History The French Bullhuahua mixed dog breed may have existed naturally over the years, but designer breeders started intentionally mixing Chihuahuas and French Bulldogs in the s, likely in North America. Breeders wanted to mix the two adorable parent breeds to help minimize the breathing problems of the French Bulldog with their brachycephalic short and smushed faces. They continued to create French Bullhuahuas as demand for the mixed breed pups climbed. Even though the French Bullhuahua mixed breed got its start as a designer breed, some have ended up in shelters or in the care of rescue groups. Consider adoption if you decide this is the breed for you. Check your local shelters, look up rescues in your area, or check with breed specific French Bulldog or Chihuahua rescues, as they sometimes take in mixed breed dogs and find homes for them. French Bullhuahua Size As the French Bullhuahua is a relatively new breed, there are few standards when it comes to size. That said, as a mix between Chihuahua and French Bulldog parents, you can expect French Bullhuahuas to be on the small side. Most weigh in at ten to 30 pounds and stand anywhere from six to twelve inches from the shoulder. However, many can be smaller or larger than average. French Bullhuahua Personality If there was ever a spunky mixed breed dog, it is the French Bullhuahua. As smaller dogs, French Bullhuahuas feel the need to protect their humans and tend to be a bit yappy. This lap dog loves to let their humans know about door knocks or unexpected noises from the TV. These dogs do best with early training to curb any unwanted barking habits. They can be a bit stubborn and take to house-training slowly, but for a consistent owner, their loyalty and desire to please will help training go a bit more smoothly. As small pups, French Bullhuahuas tend to latch on to one family member most of all, though they can get along with others in the house. French Bullhuahuas may be best suited to a one-person home or smaller families, as they demand quite a bit of attention. French Bullhuahua Health The French Bullhuahua mixed breed is predisposed to some of the same conditions that the Chihuahua and French Bulldog also face. While most are generally healthy, some may be prone to a few health issues, which is why it is important to maintain good care and regular veterinary checkups. Some of the more common health problems the French Bullhuahua suffers from include: Intervertebral Disc Hip Dysplasia. Bullhuahua Origins The Chihuahua The Chihuahua is a beloved canine breed that has a rich and fascinating history. Originally native to Mexico, these precocious little dogs date back at least two thousand years, and were likely developed by the Toltec people of Central Mexico. Over time, this small but feisty breed spread across North America, and today they are one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States. The French Bulldog The French Bulldog is a beloved and iconic dog breed that has a long and fascinating history. Tracing its origins back to the mids, this charismatic breed is thought to have been developed from a variety of other breeds, including the English bulldog and various terrier types. Originally bred in England for use in the silk-weaving industry, these puppies were transported across the channel to France, where they quickly found favor among Parisian elites. The Bullhuahua When it comes to adorable dog breeds, there are few that can rival the mix of Chihuahuas and French Bulldogs. Designer breeders started breeding these two together in the early s, the goal being to minimize the breathing problems of French Bulldogs with their smushed faces by combining them with Chihuahuas, whose slighter body frame and airier snout helped promote increased airflow. Over the years, this fascinating hybrid dog breed has experienced widespread popularity among dog lovers across the globe. French Bulldog Chihuahua mix Appearance The French Bulldog Chihuahua mix is a small but adorable dog that stands out for its unique look. Your Chihuahua French Bulldog mix should have a rectangular body with a compact and muscular build and a wide chest. They should also have a head that is slightly larger than their body, which may be apple-shaped given the Chihuahua parent's tendency towards round heads. Most French Bulldog Chihuahua mixes fall within the range of under 30 pounds and under 12 inches at the shoulder. Bullhuahua Temperament Chihuahua French Bulldog Mixes are known for their feisty, energetic personalities. They are often described as fearless and stubborn, with a tendency to be territorial over their favorite toys and hiding spots. However, these pups also have a playful side that makes them fun-loving and affectionate companions. Whether they are racing around your yard or snuggling up on the couch, Chihuahua French Bulldog Mixes are sure to keep you on your toes with their unique blend of traits! So if you're looking for an entertaining companion that will never fail to put a smile on your face, then a mixed breed dog is a perfect choice. Just remember to go easy on the training, as these mischievous pups have a mind of their own! A post shared by Kasey make. These dogs are known for their easy-going temperament and friendly nature, which makes them well-suited to living in multi-pet households. French Bullhuahuas can get along with practically any animal as long as the introduction process is done slowly and patiently. Whether it's a cat, another dog, or even a bird or reptile, this outgoing breed is quick to adapt if they're given plenty of time to adjust. Brindle, tan, brown, black, white, cream, merle Suitable for Experienced dog owners, apartment living, singles Temperament Playful, intelligent, reserved with strangers, stubborn While they can be great family dogs, they may be best suited for singles or small families, as they tend to attach to one particular human. Keep reading to learn more about French Bullhuahuas so that you can decide whether or not these dogs are a good fit for you and your family. Dogs that are harder to train will require a bit more patience and practice. Proper exercise, nutrition, and hygiene also play an important role in the lifespan of your pet. More social dogs have a tendency to run up to strangers for pets and scratches, while less social dogs shy away and are more cautious, even potentially aggressive. If a dog is being sold for much less or much more than you expect to pay, it is worth asking why. These pups tend to be cautious around new people or strangers. They will suit you well if you are not new to owning a dog and can make a wonderful apartment companion. Still, you will want to make sure to start training your French Bullhuahua right away to nip any unwanted behavior in the bud. Are These Dogs Good for Families? This is because these dogs will play favorites, choosing one member of the household to bond more closely with. They do not appreciate a lot of commotion and are generally reserved with new people. If you do have kids, especially if they are very young, make sure to teach them how to properly interact with a dog; your French Bullhuahua may snap at them if they are too rough. Keep in mind that the earlier you introduce your dog to your children, the more likely they are to get along. Similarly, the French Bullhuahua needs plenty of socialization to get along with other pets. They can be territorial and overprotective animals, but the more opportunities your pet has to meet and get to know other animals from an early age, the better. These dogs are more prone to weight gain than other breeds, so we recommend sticking to specific mealtimes rather than allowing your pet to freely eat. Talk to your vet about what type and how much food is appropriate for your specific dog. You should plan to take your dog out walking for a minimum of 30 minutes each day. Your French Bullhuahua will also benefit from opportunities to run around in the backyard or at the dog park. As long as your pet gets adequate exercise, having a yard is not a requirement; these dogs are certainly adaptable to living in an apartment or another small space. This inherent stubbornness can make training your dog quite a challenge. As a result, these dogs are likely best suited for experienced dog owners who are familiar with dog training. You may want to set aside some time and money to bring your dog to a professional trainer. It is very important that your French Bullhuahua get the socialization and training it needs from an early age to avoid unwanted behaviors. If you plan to train your dog yourself, try to stay consistent and calm with your pet. It will respond much better to positive reinforcement than harsher methods of training. You should expect to brush your dog up to three times weekly to maintain a healthy coat and help prevent shedding. However, you should plan to clean its ears about once a week and trim its nails once every few weeks. Below, we have listed some serious and minor conditions you should look out for. Minor Conditions. It is also known as a French Bullhuahua. The French Bulldog Chihuahua mix is likely to have a winning personality. But prospective owners should be aware that the physical features of their parents can combine to pose a lifetime of health risks. With that said, we can look to the history of each parent breed to learn more about the origins of the French Bullhuahua. First, the Chihuahua! The Chihuahua The iconic Chihuahua has a somewhat controversial origin story, with many conflicting opinions about where the dog came from. The common theory is that the breed originated in Mexico. This is logical, given that the breed is named after the Mexican state of Chihuahua. And it is true that what we know of today as the Chihuahua did come to us from Mexico. Pictures and carvings of breeds resembling Chihuahuas have been found decorating artifacts from lost societies all over the world. Either way, the breed is ancient. Despite its name, the Frenchie actually originated in England. It was bred primarily to be a lapdog, and a compact, city-compatible companion dog. Its origins date back to the mids. Today, both the French Bulldog and the Chihuahua are quite popular. Both breeds are prized for their adorable and unique looks, their loving personalities, and their petite size. The mix itself is fairly new, but the history and legend of both parent breeds goes back hundreds of years. The Chihuahua has an ancient history, that may be older than Mexico itself! Depictions of the Techichi breed, the predecessor of the modern Chihuahua, have been found in records of the ancient Toltecs of what is now Mexico. The French Bulldog is currently the 4 most popular breed in America, and it too claims some very famous owners. Do you know any fun facts about the French Bullhuahua? Leave a comment below! They reach a typical maximum height of about 12 inches. They typically possess a stocky, muscular body and the signature bat-ears that made Frenchies famous. Their heads are large for their bodies, adding to the cute-but-funny look. Coats are typically short to mid-length, and common colors are black, brown, tan, cream, white or a mix of colors. You will find that some Bulldog Chihuahua mixes look more like Frenchies, and some more like Chihuahuas. This is the nature of crossbred dogs, as there will always be some unpredictability. French Bulldog Chihuahua Mix Temperament The temperament of this mix will also be a blend of the temperaments of each parent breed. Generally speaking, the French Bullhuahua temperament is playful, loving, and a bit sassy. They love to spend time with their owners, and will usually bond closely to their favorite person. They have a moderate energy level. While they like to play, they are also quite content lounging about in your lap, getting plenty of attention and love! Chihuahua French Bulldog mixes are usually somewhat reserved around strangers, at least at first. Socialization from a young age is important. Bad Habits At times, this mix can become territorial and even aggressive. While this mix is loving and affectionate, they can also have a definite stubborn streak. At times this can make them difficult to train. Since undesirable behavior is easier to tolerate from tiny puppies, some owners let it pass rather than invest time and energy in shaping good habits. In other cases, new owners scoop their puppy out of new situations rather than engineering rewarding introductions. These dogs miss out on important socialization opportunities, and grow up nervous of strange people, dogs and environments. Chihuahuas in particular tend to yap and growl if they feel nervous or threatened. Dogs shoulds start their training from a very young age for best results. Positive reinforcement training is typically most effective. For some tips and tricks, see our Chihuahua training guide , crate training guide, and our general dog training guides. Socialization is very important with this breed, as they can be somewhat reserved and not very outgoing. To minimize aggression and shyness, make sure your dog gets plenty of exposure to other animals, strangers, children , etc. For exercise, this is a moderate-energy breed. They love to play, and go on frequent, shorter walks. They will also benefit from frequent trips to the dog park to play with other pups! The French Bulldog in this mix can mean that your pup might have some breathing or overheating issues. This is due to their Brachycephalic facial structure, which unfortunately can cause some serious health concerns! Be sure to watch for warning signs of serious breathing problems, particularly when your dog has been playing hard. Chihuahua Health First, the Chihuahua. The Chihuahua suffers from some health problems common to small dogs. Dental problems are quite common, as many Chihuahuas are born with dental deformities — or their teeth simply outgrow their small mouths. Joint problems, such as patellar luxation, are common. Epilepsy and low blood sugar are also possible. Blood sugar can usually be managed successfully by feeding your dog smaller, more frequent meals — but speak to your vet if you have concerns. With all that said, the Chihuahua is relatively healthy compared to many small breeds. It has an expected lifespan of years. Unfortunately, Frenchies suffer from a wide range of health problems, mostly due to the shape of their faces and snouts. The French Bulldog has a brachycephalic facial structure , which contributes to several health concerns. The structure of their faces affects their ability to breath, as well as their ability to cool themselves off by panting. Because of this, many Frenchies overheat easily, have trouble breathing, snore frequently, etc. Not all French Bulldogs have too much issue, but a large portion do. They also have many problems related to their size. Back problems, hip dysplasia, oversized heads, etc. In fact, French Bulldogs are almost entirely born by surgical cesarean section, simply because the puppies heads are too large to give birth naturally. The Chihuahua can also suffer during the birthing process. Lastly, keep in mind that due to the small size of this crossbreed, accidental poisoning is a concern. The Chihuahua French Bulldog mix can be made ill or even killed by relatively small amounts of chocolate, chewing gum, and other ingredients toxic to dogs. So, both breeds — and particularly the French Bulldog — face some very serious health concerns that should make you think twice about the breed. Some of these health concerns are improved by crossbreeding the two breeds, while others are not. We urge readers to think twice about this breed — and any other dog that frequently suffers from chronic health problems due to their breeding. In terms of their temperament, the Chihuahua French Bulldog mix can make for a good family pet. They are usually friendly, enjoy spending time with their family, and are a good fit for apartments and small homes, due to their size. That said, any potential owner should be very aware of all the potential health problems that these pups might face. Be sure to consider whether you are prepared to deal with a potential lifetime of health concerns! The Chihuahua is a bit more healthy, but can still face a lot of trouble. The mix of the two comes with significant risks for health concerns. If you have a moral issue with breeders continuing to breed dogs with significant health concerns, you can always adopt a pup. This way, you still get to enjoy the company of the breed, without having to support the ongoing breeding of disabled dogs. Rescuing a French Bulldog Chihuahua Mix We always encourage readers to rescue dogs from shelters, wherever possible. And of course, you should call your local shelters to see if they have anything for you! Watch for signs of mistreatment and aggression — and be prepared to be extra patient with your new pup! These places do not follow breeding standards, and often do not treat their animals very well! A good breeder should conduct health tests on their breeding stock, and have many years of experience. For more information, check out our puppy search guide! But, there are resources out there to help you — like our detailed puppy training guides Also, there are two additional things to keep in mind with this breed: They need to be socialized early and often, as they can be a bit shy with or even aggressive towards other dogs You need to be very careful with them physically, due to their small size and brittle bones You should also take your pup to the vet frequently, to ensure any health concerns are addressed early on.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. Take back control of their behavior using these quick and easy solutions to stop German Shepherd biting that actually works. Even better, have a set of toys that are only used when you want to engage in play with your puppy. Hide these toys in a basket or box after your game of play. This makes them extra special. They are under your control and your dog must give them back to you. Special toys are more fun for your pup to bite than you. When in doubt of what special toy your dog likes, choose from this specially-curated list of what toys German Shepherds love for interactive toy ideas to keep your dog entertained. Say OUCH! When your pup bites you, say OUCH firmly. This simple technique catches the attention of many puppies when done correctly and can train a German Shepherd puppy to not bite you. You could also make a YIP sound instead, just like their little brother and sisters would make a yipping noise when playing too rough. If they continue to bite and nip, say OUCH again and then get up immediately and leave the room for a few moments. You may return to play but keep repeating this simple process until they learn to keep their teeth on their toys. This will only encourage them to continue their unwanted behavior. Use Puppy-Safe Partition Gates Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent your German Shepherd from jumping over. If your pup bites you aggressively when you and your family walk past you, then use an exercise pen or this German Shepherd-sized pet safe partition gate to contain them. Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent and discourage your German Shepherd from jumping over to continue to try and bite you. Use the items during busy times in your home to keep your dog calm and out of areas that might increase their excitement and biting and nipping you. Puppies tend to bite and chew when their teeth are coming in. They do this to relieve the pain and help soothe themselves. Freeze a durable large Kong with their favorite treats and kibble and have them on hand for times when your dog is acting out and biting you. Give them a Kong to gnaw on and bring icy relief to their gums. Plus, chewing has been shown to help relax and calm dogs. Redirections are actions that keep your pup from engaging in unwanted behavior by showing them appropriate behavior. For example: When your dog nips you, find their teething toy to bite instead. When your dog jumps on you to bite your hands or ankles, look around for a Kong to give to them to bite on. Squeaky toys like this toy that continues to squeak , even after a puncture, are ideal to distract your dog from your hand to another object. These toys differ from their special toys mentioned above because these redirection toys are ones you leave out for your pup to chew most of the time. So, be sure to have them nearby! Use Daily Leadership Skills How many times a day do you teach your German Shepherd to listen to you and offer them leadership? Use daily interactions as an effective way of teaching your dog about leadership. Have them sit before you take them for a walk or exiting a door. Ignore them altogether. Only offer them interaction and come back to them when they show you calming behaviors. Our dogs love our attention. And German Shepherds crave it! An overfed dog that is under-exercised may display destructive behaviors because of boredom and lack of energy needs being met. Get up off the couch and go outside for a walk and sniff party. Low impact activities and free-running off-leash running are best. Choose from a list of fun and gentle, age-appropriate German Shepherd puppy exercises to keep your pup healthy and better behaved. Stop roughhousing with your dog before it frustrates them. Use appropriate, puppy-safe toys instead of play sessions. This way, your pup can bite the toy instead of your fingers, hands, or arms. You may also stress out your GSD by engaging them rough of play. For your pup to either keep up with the play or stop you from too rough play, they may bite you! From day one, avoid play that involves mouthing or teeth on the skin. Use toys to provide your dog a way they can bite to release their energy… Without nipping you! And this game is great because it teaches your dog a necessary life skill. Practice the game: multiple times a day for 2 to 3 minutes at a time Your pup learns impulse control during the game and this transfers over to their ability to stop themselves from biting you. Read below for the easy-to-follow directions. If your dog gets too worked up and then bites, then teach them this Rev Up and Cool Down game. After a few running steps and before your pup gets too excited, stop running and walk slowly. Keep moving slowly until your dog also slows down. When you see them slow down, take a few more steps calmly and peacefully. Continue with steps one through three. Each time your dog should slow down sooner and quicker. If your puppy knows any of these basic German Shepherd commands , incorporate those commands to make the training more interesting and fun. The link above will also easily explain how to teach over ten commands! The point of the Rev Up and Cool Down game is to teach them to settle and stay calm without nipping and biting you. You need to keep your pup exercised, mentally stimulated, and show them what calming behavior is. Be fair and understanding. A Shepherd is a joy to own when given the direction they desire and the commitment they need. Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. German Shepherd puppies , like all puppies, go through a teething phase, and their biting behavior can continue until they are around 4 to 6 months old when their adult teeth have fully grown in. But how do you get German Shepherd puppies to stop biting, and when should you seek out more help? We dive into everything that you need to know here. German Shepherds are herding dogs, and as such, they love to go after anything that moves. This could be cats, kids, hands, fingers, or just about anything else. The more they get away with it, the more acceptable the behavior seems in the future. Addressing the problem early and consistently is vital. Just like babies need something to chew on when their new teeth are coming in, your German Shepherd needs something too! First, it stops when they get their adult teeth. Second, if you try to redirect them to something that they can chew on, most German Shepherd puppies are receptive. At this time, they should have all their adult teeth, which means no more teething to worry about. But at least you know the root of the problem and can start implementing the necessary strategies to address it. Instead, get them a few chew toys, bones, and other acceptable things to chew on as they teethe. You can also throw a few of these toys in the fridge or freezer to cool them down, and this will offer even more relief for your pup when they need it! While there are plenty of techniques to try, we recommend redirection and positive reinforcement. The method is simple. If and when they start chewing on the toy or other appropriate object, give them praise. German Shepherds love to please their owners, so this is typically an effective way to train your puppy. Therefore, you should have levels of concern. If they are still chewing and nipping at the 9-month mark, you should seek obedience training or talk to a vet to see what you can do. So, get on it early and often, and stick with it! Because with just a little work and dedication you can get your German Shepherd puppy to stop biting in no time. Check Price on Amazon 4. Use Positive Reinforcement Positive reinforcement means giving something pleasant to your German Shepherd when they perform what you want them to do so that they learn to associate the correct behavior with the reward. The more this is repeated, they will remember and do it more often. The reward is a reinforcing motivation. In the above example of redirecting your GSDs biting to a chew toy, once he accepts the toy and starts to chew or play with it, you then offer lots of enthusiastic verbal praise and reward with a treat. Again, timing is important, and this must be done instantly so that your German Shepherd will recognize or associate his behavior with the correct action. You can give other rewards, but these may be more suited to older pups, adolescent dogs, or adults. Alternatives could be giving them a special toy, playing their favorite game, such as fetch, or taking them on their favorite walk. Always use lots of verbal praise in parallel to the reward you choose. You will, no doubt, soon get to learn where your dog prefers to be pet. Go here for more guidance on where to pet your German Shepherd. This is also useful when your German Shepherd starts to put his mouth around your possessions or furniture, ready to have a good gnaw! Using a time-out can effectively discipline a German Shepherd for biting and other undesirable behaviors. A great way to do this is to grab their collar, push their bum down, and make them sit. The idea is that your German Shepherd will quickly learn to associate that the fun stops when his nipping starts! As always, timing is critical, so your pup learns what he has done wrong at the precise moment. For very young puppies, you should only put them in time-out for a few seconds, between 7 and 10, and no longer than 30 seconds. At the end of the time-out, redirect your pup back to play and use lots of verbal praise or offer a training treat for good onward behavior. You must time the click at the exact moment your pet is doing what you want to reinforce. If you quickly reward your dog with a positive experience such as a treat, he will soon learn to associate the noise of the click with great things. The idea is that you condition your German Shepherd so that when he hears the sound of the clicker, he knows he has done something to please you. In the case of puppy biting, we are simply rewarding the puppy for choosing not to bite. You can achieve this by using the distraction technique described above. When the puppy makes the right choice and starts to bite on his chew toy, he hears the click and gets his treat. Look out for other symptoms such as drooling more than usual, bad breath, loss of appetite, or sneezing. If you are consistent and patient with your methods, you will achieve great results. Be firm but fair, which also helps to strengthen the loving bond between you and your dog. It leads to fear, avoidance, hurt feelings, guilt, stress, anxiety, and lack of trust. Owners should use positive reinforcement methods as much as possible. In another year-long study by the University of Pennsylvania, researchers found that using confrontational or aversive methods to teach aggressive dogs did not work. The dogs continued to be aggressive until the training methods were changed. The same study found that punishing techniques and dominance-based training, such as hitting or kicking, growling, or yelling at your dog, can cause aggression, as stated by Meghan E. An even more recent study in companion dogs suggests that using even mild punishments like yelling and leash-jerking can stress dogs out more than dogs taught using reward-based training. This stress causes negative consequences and poorer welfare. Alpha rolling is a controversial and outdated technique that physically puts your dog on his back or side in a submissive position to show that you are dominant or the Alpha. This old-fashioned technique is a form of positive punishment and was often used to house-train pups. Many people will have used this method decades ago without success, but at the time, they believed it was the right thing to do. For a positive punishment to work, the problem is that it has to be administered during or immediately after the act within 2 -3 seconds ; otherwise, the dog will not make the connection. Sometimes puppies naturally get over-excited and overtired. When this happens, instead of using the crate as a punishment, lure him into the crate with a treat offering lots of praise and letting him go down for a nap. If you feel sorry for your German Shepherd after disciplining him, you must never reward him out of guilt. Again, this only confuses your dog. Remember to be firm but fair. While a muzzle can prevent your dog from biting, it is not a solution to the underlying behavior issue. Muzzling your German Shepherd without addressing the root cause of their biting can lead to further behavioral problems and may even make the situation worse. Is it ever too late to discipline a German Shepherd for biting? It is never too late to discipline a German Shepherd for biting, but it may take more time and effort to modify their behavior if the biting has become a habit. Start with identifying the root cause and then take the guidance of an expert to set boundaries and train better to eradicate unwanted behavior. Final Thoughts Puppy biting is natural in all dogs. However, you now know the importance of disciplining your German Shepherd as soon as he starts to exhibit biting, nipping, and chewing behavior and how to do it. This is especially important with the German Shepherd breed as they quickly grow into big strong dogs. That could end in disaster for all concerned. No matter what you are teaching your German Shepherd, try to train him when young; 8 weeks old is a great time to start. Make sure you properly socialize him and give him lots of exercise and training will be much easier. Related Posts You May Like:. Puppies Have you ever reached down to play with a German Shepherd puppy, only to have that adorable little fur-ball pierce your skin with its razor-sharp puppy teeth? When I brought Allie into the family, she was fully in the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — so that first month was tough! Unfortunately, biting is an inevitable phase of puppyhood — it comes with the territory when you decide to be a puppy parent. My goal with this guide is to get you through the biting stage with as few battle scars as possible. Why do German Shepherd Puppies Bite? Up until this time, your puppy was with its littermates, and playtime meant lots of mouthy, nipping fun. Accordingly, this is the only way your GSD knows how to play! A German Shepherd puppy also uses their mouths to explore different things like toys — or hands, ankles, furniture… pretty much anything they can get their mouth around. Your puppy could also be teething, which can increase their mouthy behavior. Just be patient as you work through the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — give your pup time to learn to be gentle when playing or seeking your attention. Nothing is worse than an ankle-biter! I was very lucky not to have this problem with Allie. Why does your German Shepherd puppy target the ankles? Because your GSD is a working dog trying to do its job — herd you around the house like livestock. German Shepherds were originally bred for herding flocks of sheep. Your furry pal may also think heel nipping is just a really fun game. Using a toy as a distraction and keeping your pup active will help nip ankle nipping in the bud! Because she was too busy biting hands! There are lots of reasons why a pup may decide to start biting your hands. For one, good things treats, toys, love, attention come from hands. Also, hands are almost like swinging toys from the perspective of a playful pup — too enticing to pass up! How to Discourage Biting Behavior While the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is a rite of passage, there are some ways you can discourage bad biting behavior without harsh discipline. This is one of the most effective ways to teach your German Shepherd bite inhibition — or how to be gentle with her teeth. Think about when your pup was rolling and playing with their brothers and sisters — if your GSD was too rough, their sibling would let out a yelp. This trick worked great with Allie! Just make sure to be consistent until your pup gets the idea and learns to master the power of her jaws. Puppies will be puppies! Redirect the biting to an appropriate toy. For example, when your fuzzy friend latches onto your ankles, give a little puppy-like yelp, and then whip out a toy and encourage your dog to chew on that instead. Tug-of-war is the perfect game for the puppy biting phase. Socialize your puppy as much as possible. Other dogs are great at teaching your puppy that they playing too rough and biting too hard. Try a deterrent to prevent your dog from chewing or biting. If all else fails, there are lots of products designed to deter your dog from bad biting behavior. How do they work? Well, they taste awful. But if used correctly, they can definitely work. This is still attention — your puppy bites, your puppy gets attention. Otherwise, your pup may see this as a fun new game, kind of like tug-of-war but with your hands or feet as the toy. You want your furball to love playing with you! The goal here is to encourage your German Shepherd to play as much as ever but to play gently. As a pup, Allie thought she should greet everyone by jumping in their face and nipping — kind of like a kiss hello, but with teeth. And as she got bigger, it was harder to control. But trust me, it got old quickly. Be proactive. If I knew someone was coming over, I would put Allie in another room or in her crate. Once our visitor was in the house and the initial excitement had passed, I would let her out. By keeping her from greeting people right when they walked through the door, I could minimize her overzealous behavior. This is a simple command that teaches your dog to stay in her place until you give a release command. This is another way to allow the initial excitement to pass and your German Shepherd to calm down a bit before greeting anyone. Redirect attention to a toy like I talked about earlier. Fold your arms and turn away. Keep turning until your GSD stops jumping, then praise them and use a treat as a reward. What to Do If Biting Becomes Aggressive Although puppy mouthing is normal, there can be cases where biting can signal problems and possibly even aggression. Look for physical differences in your pup. If your puppy is having a moment of aggression, their body may stiffen when snarling, and bites will typically be more painful than during regular play. Also, if your GSD puppy is biting out of fear or frustration, you may need to take action. These types of behavior are not something your pup will just grow out of. While the biting phase will inevitably end, you may find yourself asking the infamous question — when do German Shepherds calm down!? I asked myself and our vet this question more than once! It honestly just depends. Sure, she had her calm moments thanks in part to her training , but she was still very hyper especially in more excitable moments. The type of German Shepherd dog is yet another variable that plays a role in its energy levels. So when do German Shepherds calm down? It really depends on your individual German Shepherd. Final Thoughts Unfortunately, the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is something all GSD puppy owners will go through, but it will pass. Try the tips above to help keep your sanity during this phase. Or any tips to help the rest of us? Please share! An aggressive pound dog pouncing on you can get quite ugly fast. Think broken bones, damaged muscles, deep lacerations, bruises, scars, and expensive medical bills. German Shepherds have a bite force of PSI pound-force per square inch, or the measure of strength that a bite inflicts on the victim , compared to humans with a bite force of PSI. In fact, the American Animal Hospital Association lists the German Shepherd as one of the six breeds with the most dangerous bites, based on a US study. Therefore, training your GSD to inhibit her bite is mandatory as it not only rewards you with a well-behaved dog, but also ensures your safety as well as the safety of the people around you. A crucial step towards correcting this nasty behavior is to first understand why German Shepherd puppies bite. Nipping or biting stems from various reasons. Understanding the root of the behavior will equip you with the proper corresponding countermeasures to correct it. German Shepherds Have a High Prey Drive One of the primary and distinct characteristics thatmake a German Shepherd a popular choice for police and military work is their high prey drive, coupled with their intelligence and high trainability. Take a look at the video below showing what GSDs were originally bred for. GSDs also have a natural inclination to chase almost everything that moves in their surroundings. They Are Teething As early as two weeks old, the baby teeth of pups start to come out. Puppies use their mouth to explore their environment, so nipping is to be expected. This behavior, called teething, can last until the puppy is six months old when all her adult teeth have started showing. Teething is very uncomfortable for puppies and can lead to sore gums, so puppies turn to anything to chew to soothe the discomfort. Unfortunately, this can include biting you! They May Be Taken From the Litter Too Early Young puppies learn to naturally inhibit their biting through socialization with their mother and their siblings. A puppy does not quite understand yet the force of her own bite unless she bites too hard and the recipient reacts by yelping out of pain. Taking a puppy away from her mother prematurely will therefore deprive her the chance to learn important socialization skills. As a rule of thumb, the American Kennel Club AKC recommends that you take home a puppy that is no less than eight weeks old. By this time, the puppy should have had ample time to interact with her playmates and learn bite inhibition. We concur that you should never take home a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old. In fact, more than half of the states in the U. This does not mean, however, that your puppy will completely stop nipping. As the new parent, it is your job to continue training the dog so that any subsequent bites should be gentler. For more on selecting the right German Shepherd puppy from a litter, including additional information on the proper age, what to look for in a puppy, and what to expect from ethical breeders, be sure to check out the 2 articles linked below: How to Buy a German Shepherd Puppy: A Step-by-Step Guide The Puppy Might Be Overstimulated, Fearful, or Anxious Sometimes puppies lose control of their bite because of overstimulation. Overstimulation can happen during playtime, or when your puppy has become cranky due to teasing. Your GSD puppy may also bite out of fear. Your puppy has but 2 defenses — to run away or to bite. If your puppy feels cornered, then biting is the defense that she will most often resort to. Because biting is normal canine behavior and GSDs are a breed that is more prone to it, the goal here is to inhibit the bite, not completely stop it. Do Start Training Early We keep mentioning throughout this site that training and socializing your GSD as soon as you get her home is crucial. Although training older dogs is not impossible, it is true that it is easier to train younger puppies, when habits are still new and can be easily corrected. If left untrained, adult German Shepherds can be prone to aggression towards other animals and humans, which can result in tragic situations. To get a better understanding of what is involved with these necessary steps, be sure to read these 2 excellent articles: German Shepherd Training Guide: All You Need to Know Do Use Toys as Alternative Items to Chew Puppies will nib on your hands or your feet especially during the teething stage. Train this behavior away by offering the puppy a toy whenever she starts biting your hand or your ankles. This teaches her what is acceptable to bite and which is not. It is good practice to always keep a chew toy nearby in anticipation of the biting behavior. She needs to understand that biting ends playtime and that it does not give her anything in return. In the Alpha Roll , the human pins down the dog on the floor on his side or back and holds that position to exert dominance. Besides, it has also been proven in many studies that dogs have very different behavior from wolves. Pinning your dog will cause him to freeze out of fear, which can also turn into aggression. It also teaches your dog that physical touch is something to be feared. Nobody wants to be punished by hand, not humans and certainly not dogs either. Do Reward Good Behavior Dog trainers and experts agree that positive reinforcement using rewards are highly effective in forming and keeping desirable behaviors as a puppy matures into an adult dog. If her nose touches your fingers without biting them, give her a treat and praise generously. Hold off the treat if she bites. Do this repeatedly until she associates the treat the reward with not biting your hand the good behavior. In fact, most dog bite cases in children occurred because of teasing! Instead, teach your child to be gentle with your pet , as even unintentional rough play can result in unwanted events. Dogs get cranky too, especially when they get hurt or feel that their privacy is being invaded. Never leave your child alone with your puppy unattended. Supervise their interactions at all times. Studies show that parents trust their dog around their kids too much that they overlook the signs that the dog is in distress. For tug games, keep in mind, however, that your dog must be calm and not overstimulated before playing. Otherwise, your puppy may get too serious and hold on to the rope too much. The AKC recommends that for breeds that are prone to aggression such as German Shepherds, tug-of-war can be safely carried out if the puppy knows you are in control and follows your commands. Once this has been established, a game of tugging can be used both as an exercise and as a reward for your dog. When playing, always remember to be gentle with tugging as your puppy still has baby teeth! By doing this, you are also socializing your puppy with other animals — an essential skill to learn for a well-rounded behavior. That being said, do not completely write off playing with your puppy! Playtime is still an excellent opportunity to bond with your dog, but make sure to keep it safe and fun by establishing boundaries. This method, however, is a matter of trial and error. Some puppies respond to this positively. On the other hand, many puppies get aroused by this and become even more aggressive. If you yelp and she stops biting without expressing any signs of aggression, the method has perhaps worked. You are then free to continue doing so until the puppy learns to stop biting hard. On the other hand, temper tantrums, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals , are characterized by a stiff body, lips pulled back to show teeth, and growling. Biting will be more forceful and painful, since the behavior is typically caused by fear or anger. A German Shepherd puppy may be more prone to displaying this behavior, especially around unruly children. Bite inhibition is crucial especially among German Shepherds, a breed that is widely reported to be the culprit of many dog bites in America. Bite inhibition is simply one of the many important skills that your GSD must learn during her training. It can spell the difference between gentle playing and aggressive biting that leads to serious injuries. Always remember that dogs have feelings, too. They are not perfect little angels that never get angry. Even the most well-mannered dog in the world will snap out of irritation. Since puppies lack the dexterity that you and I have, they use their mouths to explore the world around them. By understanding the behavior of biting itself, you can begin to see just how normal biting is in German Shepherd puppies. Just because biting is a normal behavior in a puppy does not mean we should tolerate it or promote it. Since biting is a form of communication for German Shepherd puppies, there are many things our puppies could be trying to say! So why do Shepherd pups bite? Puppies often communicate with their siblings through biting and pawing, especially when they are trying to incite a play session. Your pup may gnaw on your hand as if it were a chew toy, especially when you are a moving target. Puppies play and bite their siblings from the moment they are old enough to do so. This is why the behavior is so common, and why our Shepherd pupswill need to learn how to transition to playing with appropriate chewing options. Not only are our hands and feet tempting enough, but even more so when a puppy has a high prey drive. A prey drive is an ingrained need to chase after moving objects, whether it is appropriate or not. A swinging hand as we walk by can be extremely tempting for a growing pup, causing them to jump up and nip. If it seems like your Shepherd puppy is always biting you when you are in motion, it may be due to their high prey drive! They Are Curious As we mentioned above, German Shepherd puppies use their mouth to explore the world around them. Biting can help them examine and understand an object, and our hands and feet can fall into that category as well! If you catch your puppy gnawing on everything around your home, it may be their curiosity getting the best of them! A dog quickly learns what behavior gets a reaction, causing them to do it over and over again. Even if their bites result in a negative reaction from you, it still counts as attention. They Are Teething Similar to teething babies, a German Shepherd puppy experiences teething pain as well. If your Shepherd pup seems to find relief when chewing on objects, they may be biting you due to teething discomfort. They Are Herding You If your German Shepherd puppy is constantly biting at your ankles, they may be displaying some herding behaviors. German Shepherds are ingrained with a need to work, especially in dogs with a working bloodline. If your German Shepherd is always nipping at your feet, running to your side when you are moving, or showing signs of anxiety or frustration when you are moving around your home; it may be herding behavior. So how can you stop this normal puppy behavior? Redirect The Behavior One of the most effective ways to stop your German Shepherd puppy from biting is by redirecting the behavior. An effective distraction is a wonderful way to end the behavior without punishment, and show them how much fun the alternative to biting can be. The next time your Shepherd pup is displaying undesirable nipping, try to pull out their favorite toy. Since this will need to be a toy that your dog enjoys, be sure to offer them the option that they find most exciting. This can be a Kong toy , rope, bone, or any other chewing option that your dog loves. By doing this each time your Shepherd puppy begins to bite you, they will begin to understand that they would much rather play with an acceptable chew option. Having a variety of chew toys can alleviate their need to bite our hands and feet, and offer them the relief they seek in this uncomfortable transition. There are so many toys created for teething puppies, that it should be easy to fill your home with plenty of appropriate options. One of our favorite chew toys is the Kong Teething Binkie. Any attention can validate the behavior, causing them to make it a habit. This shows them that the behavior is unacceptable, and does not involve any harmful negative reinforcement. Our attention is important to a puppy, and they do not want to be ignored. By showing them that biting will only result in us pulling away, they will learn to ditch the undesirable behavior. Interrupt The Behavior Sometimes a Shepherd puppy needs a sharp and sudden sound to pull them out of a bad habit. By giving a quick interrupter cue ouch, yip, eek , you can pull your puppy away from the action and gain their attention. Because of this, it is so important to offer plenty of mental and physical activities throughout your home. For example, if your puppy nips at strangers each time they walk in the door, it may be best to limit their time around the guest and send them to a separate play area. Once they begin to understand that biting is unacceptable, you can refrain from using their separate play area as often. Similar to what we discussed above about being proactive, a separate play area can help them calm down and collect themselves. Once your German Shepherd puppy begins to mature and understand that biting is unacceptable, they should require less time away. Just as there are effective methods in canine training, there are counterproductive actions as well. Do Not Hit Or Yell Since biting is a normal behavior that puppies must learn to grow out of, it is not productive to hit or yell at your puppy when they bite. Doing this can show them from a young age that interaction with you results in something negative, and can hinder your training process. By using other distractions and training methods when they bite, you can turn every bite into a learning experience for your pup! This can seem like a fun game to your pup, and can actually encourage the behavior. Try your best to go limp when they bite you, and pull your attention away from the pup. By doing this, you show them that this behavior does not offer them any extra fun. Extra attention can validate their undesirable behavior, making it challenging to break. Try your best to refrain from reacting to a bite outside of your interrupter cue, and pull your attention away from your furry friend afterward. Biting is a normal behavior in puppies of all kinds. Puppies begin to bite their siblings from the moment they can move, and will continue this behavior until they learn otherwise. A biting German Shepherd puppy is to be expected, and should not result in any discouragement on your part. As long as you are following the tips we mentioned above, your puppy should shy away from this behavior in no time! Biting in puppies is not usually a sign of aggression. Mild biting is usually a form of play, and should be easily corrected. However, there are some rare cases where biting in German Shepherd puppies is a sign of something more. If your pup is displaying any snarling, growling, ears pinned back, stiff posture, or any other signs of canine aggression, your pup may be biting in reaction to fear or pain. If you are unable to make any progress within a month of implementing the tips we discussed above, it may be time to contact a dog trainer. A trainer can not only help your pup refrain from biting, but offer other obedience training as well. Final Thoughts As you can see, biting is a normal behavior for our beloved German Shepherd puppies. Be sure to review the tips we discussed above on proper canine training, and you can banish puppy biting for good!

Labrador Feeding Questions Here are some common questions that Lab owners have when deciding how much to feed their dogs. Can I feed my Labrador once a day? Feeding frequency for dogs, including Labradors, can vary depending on various factors such as age, activity level, and overall health. While some dogs may do well with one meal a day, it is generally recommended to divide their daily food intake into two or more meals. Labradors, in particular, are known to have a tendency to overeat and become overweight. Feeding them once a day can lead to hunger and potentially encourage them to eat too quickly or excessively in one sitting. This can increase the risk of bloating, a potentially life-threatening condition. It also provides a more consistent energy level throughout the day. They can consider factors such as age, weight, activity level, and any underlying health conditions to provide tailored feeding recommendations. How much should I feed my overweight Labrador? Feeding an overweight Labrador requires careful portion control and a balanced diet. This will serve as a reference point for developing a weight loss plan. Choose a high-quality, low-calorie diet: Opt for a balanced dog food that is specifically formulated for weight management. These diets are lower in calories while still providing essential nutrients. Follow portion control: Follow the feeding guidelines provided on the dog food packaging, but keep in mind that these are general recommendations. Your veterinarian can help you determine the appropriate portion size. Monitor treats and table scraps: Limit or eliminate high-calorie treats and table scraps, as they can contribute to weight gain. Consider a gradual weight loss approach: Rapid weight loss is not ideal for dogs and can have negative health effects. This slow and steady approach is healthier and more sustainable. Regular exercise: Along with a controlled diet, regular exercise is essential for weight management. Consult with your veterinarian about appropriate exercise routines for your Labrador, taking into account their current weight and any existing health conditions. Should I feed my Labrador twice a day? Yes, feeding a Labrador twice a day is generally recommended for optimal health and digestion. Splitting their daily food intake into two meals helps to promote better digestion, prevent overeating, and maintain a consistent energy level throughout the day. Labradors have a tendency to overeat and become overweight, so dividing their meals can help control portion sizes and prevent excessive food consumption in one sitting. It also helps to regulate their metabolism and prevent hunger pangs. By feeding your Labrador twice a day, you can provide them with a more balanced and manageable feeding routine. It allows for better absorption of nutrients and reduces the risk of digestive issues such as bloating or stomach discomfort. Foods to Avoid for Labrador Providing leftovers to your Labrador can be harmful to its health because there are some foods that dog parents should avoid giving their dogs. Chocolate is rich in a stimulant known as theobromine, which is somehow similar to caffeine, which is why it is poisonous for the Labrador. The number of stimulants may depend on the type of chocolate. This caffeine-like stimulant directly affects the heart and central nervous system of the Labrador. It may also cause some kidney issues even within 24 hours of eating chocolate. Vomiting, along with diarrhea, is a side effect of chocolate. Many vegetables are highly suitable for the health of Labradors, but onions and garlic are never allowed. Both of these can be toxic even if eaten in small quantities. Therefore, while cooking homemade food for Labradors, you must avoid garlic and onion. Alcohol is another harmful and toxic food item for dogs. If your pup consumes it even in small quantities, it may suffer from vomiting and diarrhea. Moreover, alcoholic beverages also cause depression, a shortage of oxygen, tumors, and blood change. Moldy foods and trash: Bread, nuts, some dairy products, and moldy foods are rich in toxins that cause illness. Take extra precautions to make sure that your Lab cannot access any moldy food. Best Food for Labradors When choosing a food for your Lab, of course cost is an issue. Labs are big dogs that eat a lot of food. Of course we want to spoil our furry friends, but buying the most expensive food on the market is not necessary. In fact, buy a good quality middle-of-the-list food, and even if you can afford more expensive food, put that money away for any unexpected veterinary expenses. Also, counseling the vet before choosing canine food can be a sound methodology for your Labrador retriever. No products found. As always, your veterinarian is a great resource for Lab feeding information. More Lab Information. Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. It helps to boost their immune system and strengthen their joints. Which can lead to weight gain issues in them. It has been observed that Labradors are prone to obesity. If he weighs around kg, then grams of food daily is more than enough, with kcal per day. Note:- Follow our Labrador puppy feeding guide UK, it will help you to keep a track record of food and calorie ratio. In one of our feeding blogs, we have covered: The Cockapoo puppy feeding guide! Adult Labrador Feeding Proportion In his puppy stage, you used to feed him four times a day, right? Well, when your Lab reaches adolescent age, you need to stop feeding him so frequently. You need to cut down that frequency to twice a day. Moreover, you need to switch from puppy-formulated food to adult Labrador food. Because as their weight, age, and activity level increase, their nutrient requirements also vary. We have prepared an adult Labrador feeding chart , which will help you to feed him the correct amount of food. An adult Labrador with high activity will need more food than one with less activity. For instance, your adult Lab, whose weight is around .On the other hand, if he is not an active one then you need to feed, him kcal per day. It is suggested to go for high-quality food that is specially formulated for larger breeds. In this way, you will prevent him from getting affected by any joint issues or other severe health problems, which normally large breeds encounter if they rapidly grow. Senior Labrador Feeding Proportion At the age of 7, your Labrador turns to seniority, where his activity level and appetite decrease slowly. This is because, with age, their body becomes less immune and infected with several health issues. His health, eating habits, and weight, all vary with time. You just cannot feed him the same ratio which you used to give in the adult stage. Now, his body requires different nutrients at different proportion levels. For your better reference, we have prepared a PDF of the senior Labrador feeding chart , which is bifurcated into weight. This will surely help you in feeding him correctly. For example, if your senior Lab whose weight is around .In such a scenario, it is suggested to feed grams of food daily with a total calorie intake ratio of kcal per day. On the other hand, if your oldie Lab is not an active one, then it is suggested to cut down the calorie ratio. Because without any physical activities, and exercises, his metabolism will not work effectively. And how the feeding ratio varies as per their life stage, weight, and activity level. Before following the Labrador feeding guide UK. So, you can select the appropriate dog food for your Lab, as per his health. And feed him the correct amount of food. Nutrients Guidelines Well, checking the nutrient list is one of the essential factors, upon which the feeding schedule is based. Mostly, Labradors are too sensitive, and allergic to grains. Many commercial dog food includes grains, peas, lentils, and other ingredients that are not good for his health. Especially, those who are allergic to grains should not be fed grain food. It can lead to severe health issues in the future. Virbac Movoflex, Synovi Chews, Dasuquin, Cosequin, and Flexadin are some examples of joint supplements that have gone through clinical trials and been proven effective. Meat Protein. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. Before adopting a Labrador Retriever puppy, many owners go to great lengths to deduce the optimal food for their pup. From raw feed to canned food from a local pet store, there are plenty of dog food options for owners to consider, but which is the best dog food? Whether you feed your puppy a raw food diet or commercial dog foods, there are lots of ways for your pup to consume a balanced diet. There are plenty of sources that will describe the benefits of one diet over another, but remember that no one knows your puppy better than you. The decision to feed your dog a diet that you think is best is yours to make. There really is no right or wrong answer when it comes to selecting a food for your puppy. Your pooch will likely enjoy eating wet food just as much as they enjoy commercial dog food. So long as you feed your pup an adequate amount of food, they are likely to live a long and healthy life. If you would like specific advice about feeding your individual puppy, you may wish to consult with your veterinarian or other dog food expert. When you first bring your puppy home, it can be alarming if your dog does not touch its puppy food during the first few days at home. Is this cause for concern? Noticing that your precious pup is not eating can be a frightening realization. Prior to being welcomed to its forever home, your Lab puppy was accustomed to living with its mother and siblings. Therefore, being uprooted from this life can initially be a startling experience for a dog. Fortunately, puppies should develop an appetite within a day or two of entering their forever home-they just need a short time to adjust to their new life. If, after a few days, your puppy is still not eating their dog food, it may be a wise idea to have your puppy evaluated by a vet. Feeding A Two-Month-Old Labrador Retriever Two months old is about the earliest point at which a Labrador puppy can be brought home by their new family. When a Labrador puppy begins to eat solid food, it will not be eating a ton of food. So, owners can start their Lab puppy off with somewhere around 0. As your puppy grows older and gets bigger, owners should look to increase the amount of food for their Labrador pup. By the time a puppy is nearing three months old, it should be eating well over 1 cup of food every day. Some puppies may be consuming close to two cups of dog food at this time. This increase in size means that their appetite has also surely grown since bringing them home. By the time a Labrador puppy is around 3 months old, it should be eating close to 1. Large three-month-old Labrador puppies can be away a substantial amount of food as they are near four months old. Some puppies will be able to consume around 3 cups of food daily at this point in their lives, but most will be eating closer to 2 cups of dog food every day. If your pup seems hungry and looks to be a healthy weight, there is no need for owners to be concerned about how much food their three-month-old Lab is consuming. Your precious pooch will start to look more like an adult with each passing day. Therefore, it is essential to feed your dog enough food to promote the weight gain that makes dogs thrive. Four-month-old Labrador Retrievers should be given at least two cups of food daily. The biggest, most ravenous Labs will eat close to 3. However, only dogs on the large end of the puppy spectrum will need to eat this much at this time. Average four to five-month-old Labs should eat anywhere from 2 to 3 cups of food daily. Labrador Retriever teenagers are characterized by disproportionate body parts, distracted behavior, and dispositions that range from silly to ornery. Therefore, getting enough food to support such development is imperative. A six-month-old Labrador will surely be able to eat at least 2. This will ensure proper growth for your pooch. As your puppy reaches the point in which it is 7 to 8 months old, continue to increase the amount of food that your puppy receives. Labrador Retriever puppies that are close to 9 months old can eat more than 4 cups of food daily. However, your furry friend is more likely to consume 2. Instead, your pup is likely nearing its adult size. So, how much food should ten to twelve-month-old Labs be eating? Puppies that consume quantities of food on the low end of the spectrum should be consuming at least 3 cups of food every day during this time. On the other hand, large Lab pups that are between 10 to 12 months old could be eating 4. If your puppy is on the brink of adulthood, it would be wise to consider weaning it off of its puppy food in favor of adult dog food. All Lab puppies should be offered adult dog food when they reach maturity, as such food replaces nutrients that are essential for puppies with ingredients that benefit adults. Whereas puppies should eat food that increases their body weight, adult Labs should eat food that maintains their weight. So, if you think it may be time to switch your Labrador Retriever to an adult dog food diet, consult with your vet and find a food that is best for your adult Lab. Of course, the mature size of your pooch will dictate how much food it can and should be consuming every day. Generally, it is advisable to feed an adult Labrador anywhere from 3 to just over 4 cups of food every day. Gauge the weight and appetite of your pet to determine the perfect amount for your furry friend. Though the above recommendation will be perfect for most adult Labs, there are some instances in which mature Labradors will require more adult food. Pregnant Or Lactating Labs A Labrador who is pregnant or lactating will require substantial amounts of food to nourish herself and her litter of pups. Therefore, owners should be prepared to offer vast quantities of food to their Labrador mothers. While a typical adult Labrador will consume 3 to 4 cups of food every day, Labrador mothers should be offered around 6 cups of food at least to keep up with their enormous energy requirements. If your mother Labrador snarfs this food down and still seems hungry afterward, be prepared to offer her additional food. Especially Active Labs If your Labrador is an athletic specimen, it may need to consume more than a typical adult Lab to fuel the exercise regime that such a dog is accustomed to. Dogs that receive more than one hour of daily exercise could be considered especially active dogs. Owners can begin by offering these pooches 4. If they still seem hungry, owners can increase the amount of food given to these dogs. Once a dog reaches the golden years of its life, it is once again time to switch up its diet. Senior dogs should consume food that caters to the needs of their aging bodies. These pooches can get away with eating a low-protein diet whereas such food would not be appropriate for puppies or adults. Given that senior dogs are usually not especially active dogs, they do not require as much food compared to adult and large puppies. Therefore, supplying a senior Lab with anywhere from 2 to just over 3 cups of food daily should be plenty for your pooch. Now that you know how much to feed your Labrador, you are likely curious about the number of times that your dog should be fed every day. Some may be looking for a quick answer about how often to feed a Labrador every day, but the truth is nuanced. When it comes to feeding your Lab, it turns out that Labs of different ages should be fed different amounts of food every day. Read on to discover the perfect number of meals for your Lab. An infant Labrador Retriever should have its daily food allotment broken up into at least 4 meals every day. This will help supply these petite pups with the energy that they need to get through the day. Lab puppies that are four to twelve months old do not require as many meals as their younger counterparts. However, these dogs should still receive three meals per day to support their rapid metabolism. Feeding one meal in the morning, one in the afternoon, and one in the evening is optimal. Adult Labs do not need to eat as many meals are puppies due to their slower metabolisms. Supplying an adult Labrador Retriever with two meals every day would be perfect for these dogs. Ideally, adult dogs will be fed one meal in the morning and one in the evening. When your furry friend reaches the point in their life where they are considered to be a senior dog, your pooch will have the slowest metabolism in their life. The slow metabolism for senior Labs means that these dogs do not need to eat as frequently as they did when they were younger. In fact, senior Labrador Retrievers can get by with eating a single meal every day. One to two meals per day is ideal for a senior Labrador Retriever. Owners can see if their senior Lab prefers one or two meals each day by allowing them to try each option. Is this because these dogs are prone to obesity or simply because there are so many Labs out and about? It turns out that Labrador Retrievers are more prone to obesity than many other dog breeds. Labs have evolved to be very active dogs. If owners fail to provide their dogs with proper exercise and feed their furry friends excessive amounts of food, there is a good chance that owners will end up with overweight dogs. Why Is My Labrador Overweight? If you are someone who owns an overweight Labrador, you are not alone. Overweight Labs are still lovable pooches, but they could stand to lose some pounds for their own good. Obviously, feeding your dog less food is likely to be one of the keys to helping your canine companion to lose weight. However, you may be wondering what else you can do to help your Labrador lose weight. Well, if you do not frequently exercise your dog, then this is a good place to start. Try feeding your dog its typical amount of food but increasing its exercise to see if it starts to lose weight. For those that are still struggling to get your pooch to lose weight, be sure to cut out table scraps and dog treats from the diet of your dog. Moreover, be sure that you are not free feeding your Labrador Retriever. Free feeding is acceptable for puppies when they are infants, but Labradors that are any other age should not be free fed, for this can also result in a chunky pooch. If you fear that your dog is consuming its food too quickly, there are plenty of feeding methods to help your pooch slow down. Obesity in dogs is a serious issue. We briefly touched on this subject when discussing the best foods for Lab puppies, and the same advice will apply here. Some owners feed raw to their Labs, while others may feed kibble. Does this mean that those who practice raw feeding are likely to own healthier dogs compared to those feeding kibble to their dogs? Of course not! High-quality dog food may take many different forms. A raw diet could provide your dog with all of the nutrients that it needs, but it is not inherently better for your dog than dry food or homemade food. Ultimately, owners know their Lab better than anyone else, so they should have the final say regarding what to feed their dog. Deciding what to feed your Labrador can be an overwhelming prospect. Consult A Veterinarian Inquiring with a trusted veterinarian about the diet of your Labrador Retriever will help an owner determine the optimal food intake for their precious pooch. They may also recommend certain dog foods that can be purchased to feed a Labrador. A feeding chart will provide information related to how much food to provide a Lab based on its age. A feeding guide may even break down how much food to feed a Labrador based on its weight. There are plenty of Labrador Puppy feeding chart options and feeding guides for adults. Finding a feeding chart that was created by a trusted source like the American Kennel Club can help you make an informed decision about how much to feed your furry friend. Ultimately, a feeding guide is a good place to turn if you find yourself in need of a quick answer about the topic of how much to feed your Lab. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. You turn your attention back to your computer screen and suddenly feel little teeth grabbing at your sock! You look down. Your once-angelic puppy is now having a full on game of tug-of-war with your pant leg! This cute baby is now more like a furry little monster. You get up and try to walk away, but the fur alligator is still attached, munching away at your trousers and having the best time! If this sounds like your life, read on to learn how to stop a puppy from biting. Why Do Puppies Bite? Believe it or not, this scenario is actually very common! Biting is one of the most natural things in the world to a young pup; and they do it for many reasons. You would be left with your feet and mouth to interact, taste and feel your environment. Now, what if you had puppy paws — incapable of grasping anything? That leaves you with one final way to interact — your mouth. For good measure, add in the incredible curiosity of a child. How many times do you see a baby grab things with their hands and pop them into the mouth? Puppies have that same mindset. Your mouth strength and play bite helped you communicate and determine your rank in society. Your mouthy mojo gave you respect in canine culture. Puppies interact with their surroundings largely through their mouths. Labradors, like most sporting breeds, have the drive to chase after prey, put it in their mouths, and bring it back to you. This translates into a strong need to chew. They will try this same tactic with their human pack members. If ignored, one bite on the toe is often enough to get the focus back on them. Remember, to a puppy even negative attention is still attention. Terrible Teething When you add teething into the mix, you have the recipe for a furry gator. Most pups will have an increased need to chew while teething , which can begin at 6 weeks and last to 8 months of age. Unlike teething, there is no magical age that puppies grow out of a learned mouthing behavior. Thankfully, with positive training, most dogs eventually lose interest in chewing on their owners. Types of Biting: Aggression or Play? Puppies use their teeth in many ways. However, this is actually just very intense play. Play biting can be accompanied with growling and snarling. This is just part of the fun to a young pup. Instead, we will look into how we can prevent playful mouthing. However, it is important to recognize the signs of aggression. Pay attention to the timing of the biting as well. If so, the motive behind the bite may be more aggressive. Could it be Resource Guarding? Some dogs also aggressively bite when they are guarding a toy or food item, commonly called resource guarding. With resource guarding, you will see the same behavior as aggressive biting, but they will also stand over an object and defend it from any perceived threat. If you think your puppy is behaving aggressively, seek professional help to learn how to actively manage this issue. In contrast to this, playing puppies will be relaxed and have a wiggly body. They will be bouncy, easily roll onto their backs and often be panting with open mouths. Even if they are growling, a relaxed face and body mean a happy puppy. What Can Trigger Biting? Do you really want your pound Labrador to target your hands as a toy later? Children Little kids tend to excite puppies more than adults. Children move erratically, run around, make strange sounds and have a lot more energy. Puppies can easily associate them with toys. Ankle Biters Puppies target fast moving objects that excite their prey drive. Your feet moving by at their eye level can be irresistible. After all, what self-respecting puppy would snub shoes with those floppy laces that are perfect for playing tug? How do we do this? Redirection with Hands When training your puppy, always have a toy to offer. Remember, puppies are like babies. Your job is to redirect them to fun toys instead of human skin. You must do everything possible to make toys extremely attractive so the puppy chooses them over your clothing, hands or feet. Redirection with Kids You can also use redirection around children. First, teach your puppy to use interactive toys and then show your child how to play with the puppy correctly. In the event that your dog forgets, teach your kids to be a tree when their puppy begins to bite them or their clothes. This position makes them less interactive to the puppy. They look boring and the puppy will lose interest. Most bites occur because the child is running or moving erratically. Remember, dogs have the same prey triggers as wolves. If something is running away, it looks like prey. Your job, therefore, is to have an even more amazing toy than your feet. You can take a toy, tie it to a rope, and then tie the rope to your belt so that you are dragging the toy whenever your pup is out. If your puppy is coming for your feet, stop moving them and wave the toy around excitedly instead. Once the pup is attached to the toy, you can start walking again. This way, they will pounce on the toy instead of you! Bite inhibition simply means that the puppy learns not to apply too much force behind their teeth. They apply gentle, but firm, pressure to their greeting. Puppies also learn to limit this pressure with their mouths by feedback from pack members. When puppies are little, they learn bite inhibition through play with their siblings. If two pups are tussling, and one bites down too hard, the other puppy yelps loudly. This startling sound usually causes the offending party to let go. The play stops for a few minutes, as the first pup nurses his wounded ego. Play then resumes, but with less brutality. Instead, let the puppy release your hand and then simply get up and and move away from your pup while ignoring them. Your job is to teach them when they bite down on you, the fun stops. Ignore them for about a minute, then return and resume the play and praise them when they focus on the toy. If they bite you too hard again, repeat this process. You can either step over a puppy barrier or go into another room and shut the door. Just make sure they are in a puppy-proof area, as they may take out their frustration on inappropriate household items. You can also keep the puppy on a leash while playing with them. If they bite you, you can calmly tether them to something and then walk out of their reach. Your goal is to correct the puppy only by taking away your fun presence. You should not be threatening or angry. Give them the appropriate time out from the fun interaction to settle down, and then come back with a toy to redirect their energy. Once they understand they have to be gentle, you can then start to ask more of them by ending the game with lighter and lighter pressure on your skin. Finally, you can take the game to the highest standard — no teeth on human skin at all. If you slowly progress to this over weeks, you teach your pup to have a soft mouth. If they do feel the need to put their teeth on a human, they know not to put much pressure into their bite. You need to teach your puppy that human skin is fragile and requires a softer touch than a canine interaction. Your goal for this exercise should be to help your puppy understand that the play and fun things continue as long as they keep their teeth on their toy and not on you! More Ways to Stop Your Puppy Biting While the yelp and time-out method works for most pups, there are additional ways to reinforce good behavior. When your puppy bites your hand, they get a terrible taste. You can use anti-chewing sprays like Bitter Apple to make your hands less appealing. When your puppy bites you, be still and wait for them to react to the bitter taste. When they let go, praise them and redirect them onto a treat or toy. You want the crate to always be associated with only good things. Crates also should be in the middle of the household, with the rest of the pack — not isolated. This is the same way other canine pack members would isolate them. A laundry room or puppy pen works well for this exercise. Make sure the room is comfortable and safe for your puppy. When the puppy is too stimulated, calmly put him in the room with some teething toys and leave. Teaching them interactive games like fetch or bringing you a toy to tug helps show them that they can have even more fun when they play by your rules. Positive play helps develop a bond with your dog. You never want to avoid it, you just want to show them how to play without biting you. Teaching puppies to retrieve objects helps to tire them out, gives them something positive to chase, and focuses their bite on an appropriate item. Plus, most Labradors are pretty good at retrieving! Remember, anytime we ask a puppy to stop a behavior, it should be because they are rewarded in an even more exciting and positive way for doing something else and things our way. The following video shows how. Video: How to Stop a Puppy from Biting This video shows how to use clicker training to stimulate a puppy in situations where they normally would bite; and then reward them when they choose a closed mouth and calm interaction. Dominant Puppies Dogs are individuals. However, as puppies mature, there may be the rare pup that uses biting as a way to take charge. Dominant puppies may bite to show you that they want to be the boss as they mature. This happens naturally among littermates, as all packs have a pecking order. This reinforces to them that you are backing down and that they are the leader in the relationship. Always remain calm and assertive with your puppy, but end the game as soon as they begin vying for leadership instead of playing. Remember, the alternative to not training your dog is a large animal putting his mouth on people. Be patient with your puppy. Remember, mouthing and biting are normal parts of canine culture. If you stay patiently positive, train consistently, and redirect and reward good behavior, you will soon see a puppy that learns to bring you a tug toy instead of shredding your trousers. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative to seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. This awful biting time with puppies seems like it will go on for ever, but actually it only lasts a few weeks - mostly by the time the new teeth have come through, at about four to five months, the biting stops, and soon you will find you have a dog with a gentle mouth. You may not realize it, but your puppy is already being careful to some extent - if you have ever fed a puppy a raw chicken wing, for instance, you will know that he would be completely capable of biting right through your fingers, if he really wanted to. He is already pulling his punches, and now just needs your help to learn that human skin is more delicate than the thick fur of his mother and siblings. Your puppy sounds like he gets wound up and overtired the mad running around the house. This is the time a crate or quiet area can work wonders. Stay calm, keep giving him toys and chews to chomp on instead of your hands, refuse to interact with him when he bites you - even a second or two of no attention will help him to realize you really don't like it. Grabbing his cheeks and pulling him obviously doesn't work, he probably thinks it's some kind of game, and the attention you are inadvertently bestowing on him in that way seems to be making the situation worse.It will help if you teach him what you DO want, which is calm, gentle behaviour. Don't forget to praise him quietly and calmly when he is being good and quiet. I found holding one end of a chew such as a bully stick , so that we were interacting without him actually hurting me, helped. I also found that working out a routine was very helpful, so that we would go outside to play, then he would have his food, go out again to pee, then I would put him in his bed in the crate or behind a gate for a rest. Don't panic, this is very normal puppy behaviour, and I guarantee it will pass. You will get there. In a couple of months you'll be telling us what a delight he is.Print How to stop your puppy from biting your hands and feet — fast! Have you ever watched a litter of retriever puppies play with each other? They are all mouths and feet as they growl, bite and paw at each other. Over time, if left to it, each pup will naturally figure out their place in the pack. However, when you bring your Lab puppy home there are no longer littermates with whom to tussle. And the result is often that your Lab puppy will start biting and growling at you! The problem is that puppy teeth are sharp. Very sharp! And when your puppy bites you, even if they are playing, it hurts. So, what can you do to stop this behavior before it gets out of hand and you find yourself or someone in your family injured by your puppy? Before I go any further, I want to be clear about what we are talking about. You should seek professional help and evaluation. Why puppies bite and growl Puppy play is a kind of training for a dog as they grow and mature. It is also a way that dogs determine rank within a group. Remember, dogs are pack animals. In a pack there is only one Alpha lead dog. Every other dog is under the authority and control of that dog. No two dogs share the same rank. So, while biting and growling starts as play, it does not stay that way. All dogs, whether in a group of dogs or a human family, want to understand their place in the family. They need to know their place. It helps they be more mentally balanced and will help solve a multitude of behavioral problems. Once a puppy or dog understands where they rank in the pack, they often assume that place, at least for a while. Remember, they are dogs. They are not robots so occasionally they may challenge their position, but if the boundary remains clear, the challenge is short lived. Biting, nipping and playful growling at a human can become a challenge of dominance. If your puppy is young, you can quickly and easily end this behavior by establishing boundaries and consistently enforcing these boundaries each and every time your puppy shows this type of behavior. If you have let this behavior go on for a while, you may be in for quite a fight to take back your authority. Biting is not the same as chewing A puppy biting your hand or feet is not the same as a puppy chewing on a shoe, toy or other item. All puppies have a need to chew. As their puppy teeth grow and their adult teeth come in, it is common for dogs to chew on things to relieve the pain and help the new teeth to come in. This should not be discouraged, but rather encouraged on an appropriate item like a chew toy, nylabone or rawhide. And if this works, this is an appropriate solution. Instead, it is likely an issue of dominance. How to stop puppy from biting you Biting is just one puppy dominance behavior. There are many others such as jumping on you, putting a paw on your feet, and lifting and placing paws on your arms or legs. The behaviors I have listed are often gateway behaviors that escalate into more aggressive or troublesome behaviors like stealing food off your plate or the counter, pushing you out of the way when going through doors and pulling you around on a lead. Start by establishing firm boundaries The first step to stopping your puppy from biting or mouthing you is to set up firm boundaries for your puppy. You can set these up for not only biting but for all dominance behaviors. So, what is a boundary? Well, here are some examples. Some people we have worked with are okay with their puppy mouthing their hand as long as there is no tooth pressure. If you feel the same way, then make that a boundary. But if there is any tooth pressure, a swift and consistent correction will follow. This boundary is stronger and does not give the dog any room for confusion. In fact, they often will understand what your boundaries are but will test that standard against everyone else in the family. Each person needs to set and enforce boundaries. React with firm consistent corrections After you establish the boundary, you now need to react every time your puppy or dog crosses that boundary. Each and every time! There can be no room for confusion. Your corrections must be swift and consistent. Not all dogs react to the same level of pressure. For some dogs, this squeeze and strong words will be all it takes to stop the behavior. Especially if you are consistent in your correction. But some dogs have a stronger or more challenging personality. This will give your puppy a taste of his own medicine since his puppy teeth are sharp and will pinch into his lips or flews. You must be consistent. How long will it take to stop my puppy from biting me? If you are firm and consistent, the behavior should stop for the most part in a day or two. Some dogs require more pressure, some less. Your puppy should feel some discomfort. That is okay. The point is to show your puppy that biting hurts and that it is not an acceptable behavior. When nothing seems to work If you puppy is a bit older and has been getting away with biting and mouthing you for a while, you may struggle to end this behavior. Often the problem is a strong dominance issue that needs to be addressed. If your puppy continues to snap or bite at you even after a correction, you likely need to exert some dominance over your puppy. This is similar to what a mommy dog does to a puppy that is not behaving. Humans can do the same thing to show dominance over a rebellious puppy. I know, it sound a bit ridiculous but it really does work. Instead, remain calm and patient. Stay in control. Reacting with emotion can lead to strong reactions or punishment that you will later regret. The point is to show your dog that you are the Alpha in the relationship, and you can and will determine what behavior is acceptable. Biting is not love As a professional dog trainer, I am always surprised at what some of clients consider appropriate behavior. Some owners feel that setting boundaries and enforcing those boundaries means that you do not love your dog. That you need to accept all dog behaviors otherwise you do not love your dog. This is a false and faulty mindset. We have seen clients who have been injured by their dog multiple times and they still refuse to take steps to end the behavior. That is not love. What if the next person that dog bites is a child? Would you be able to live with that? A dog that is allowed to continue harming humans is only one bite away from having to be put down. It may sound harsh, but it is the sad truth. Some people may argue that the dog is unable to understand what they are doing is wrong. This is not based on reality. Dogs are very smart. They can learn to do amazing things and become incredible hunting partners and family companions. But they rarely achieve this potential without an owner who cares enough to set boundaries and enforce them. Final thoughts on how to stop my puppy biting me all the time You can stop your puppy from biting you and others if you are willing to take the steps necessary to make your dog understand that biting is not an acceptable behavior. A firm consistent correction each and every time your puppy bites will quickly teach your puppy to stop biting. These corrections will not harm your relationship with your puppy, but will, in fact, enhance it. Your puppy will quickly learn where the boundaries are and how to operate within those boundaries. We see it time and again, once a puppy is taught that there are boundaries, they quickly adjust and become wonderful loving and obedient family members. Help, my Lab puppy keeps biting me! Calm puppy behavior. Conflicting advice on how to stop your pup biting Many articles will tell you to ignore a puppy when he bites and to offer him a toy instead. Some people will tell you to punish your biting puppy. Others will tell you that you must not stop your puppy biting too suddenly, or punish him for biting, for fear of drastic consequences later. So who is right, and who is wrong? Does ignoring stop your puppy biting? Many new puppy owners try to ignore the biting puppy initially. This failure tends to be for one or more of the following reasons. Does noise stop puppy biting? There is no doubt that a sufficiently loud squeal, followed by immediate withdrawal of attention, will cause many Labrador puppies to break off from biting. Sometimes long enough for a skilled owner to then redirect the puppy into a more appropriate activity. There is also no doubt that for some puppies, this has the reverse effect, and causes them to bite harder and more fiercely. A puppy that has spent sufficient time with his Mum, may be more likely to take heed of this verbal warning, as he will expect it to be followed by a sharp click of her teeth and a fiercer rebuke if he ignores her. But there are no guarantees here. And the fact is, squealing simply does not work as an effective anti-biting strategy, for some puppies. Punishing the puppy to stop biting I have heard, even quite experienced, breeders tell new puppy owners to punish their puppy if he bites. Either by intimidating the puppy with an angry growling voice, or even with physical punishment such as a scruff shake or slap. But there are problems with this approach. This process is called bite inhibition. And the use of punishment may curtail all biting rather than just the hardest, most painful, bites. Nowadays many people like to train dogs without punishment. And there are strong reasons for joining them — check out this article — the downside of punishing dogs. Teaching puppy to stop biting Why would we want to teach dogs to bite humans gently? Why is it not best to teach them not to bite at all, right from the start? The idea of reducing biting gradually was popularised by Ian Dunbar. The theory is that a dog which learns to inhibit his bite i. You can read more about bite inhibition here: Labrador Puppies Biting. The concept is a sound one, and most canine behaviorists agree that teaching gradual bite inhibition is a good thing. The problem for many new puppy owners, is stopping those painful bites in the first place! The first step is not a technique at all, but an adjustment in the expectations that we have of a small puppy How much do Lab puppies bite? New puppy owners tend to have false expectations of puppies. They also anticipate that stopping a puppy from biting will be a fairly quick and simple matter. None of these expectations is true. Most puppies bite hard, frequently and growl fiercely whilst they are doing it. This noise is not a sign of aggression see Help my puppy is aggressive. Stopping a puppy from biting is a process, a journey. And it can be temporarily an uncomfortable one! It is important to accept that there is no guaranteed way of stopping biting immediately. Indeed, as we have seen, bite prevention rather than inhibition may be a bad thing in any case. Supervise your puppy around children Once you have got your head around the fact that this process will take some time, that it will be a gradual thing, you need to think about how you are going to protect any children that might come into contact with the puppy. This is important because small children can, both hurt and, be hurt by small biting puppies. Calm your puppy to stop him biting The next priority is to keep your puppy calm. Overexcited puppies bite harder and more frequently than less excited puppies. This will merely start the biting up all over again. There are lots of ways to interact with puppies without physically playing with them. Check out our article on playing safely with your dog. What to do when a puppy bites When your puppy bites you really hard, take immediate action. Stand up, move away from him and completely withdraw your attention. You can try the squeal thing if you want to. This works well with some puppies. Be ready for it, and repeat your actions. If the puppy chases after you, biting at your legs and feet, step over a baby gate, or pop him in his crate for a few minutes. You can read up on this process in more detail in this article: How to cope with biting. Remember, puppies enjoy chewing , and teething puppies need to chew on something. Whilst you and your clothing are not suitable chew toys, you need to provide your puppy with alternatives, like Kong toys. How to stop your puppy biting Biting is normal Biting should be inhibited in stages Training takes time The key points to take away from this are that biting is normal, and that training a puppy not to bite takes time. Stop the painful bites first, then work on putting a stop to mouthing. If what you are doing is not working, you probably just need to be more patient and persistent. If your children are suffering, you need to separate and supervise. Work hard on keeping your puppy calm — it makes the biggest difference. How to teach your puppy bite inhibition. To make sure your puppy stays out of trouble, when he comes home it is your job to put the finishing touches to his bite inhibition ability. This is especially important if he does not have a great deal of access to playing with other dogs. The right way to stop your puppy biting All puppies bite. And biting hurts! Puppies have very sharp teeth and they bite really firmly. Often making fierce growling noises whilst they do so. You may be tempted to correct your puppy firmly for biting, after all, he needs to know it is wrong to bite people! A process that will help you put an end to biting, even though it takes a little longer. Conflicting advice is very confusing, and the best way to be confident in what you are doing is often to drill down to the reasons behind each approach. And studies suggest that if good bite inhibition ability is not acquired by the time a puppy is around five months old, it may never be achieved. Stopping your puppy biting! Some people, including some experienced dog breeders , will recommend that you simply stop your puppy from biting by firmly correcting him each time he does so. Some will even advise physical punishment. And it does. So this might seem like a sensible course of action. But there is a problem here. Suddenly stopping puppies from biting may give you a fast result, at the expense of some more important aims. One problem with correcting a puppy for biting is that the puppy quickly learns to be selective about who he bites. This is very important in families with children where puppies will often bite children ferociously, long after they have learned that biting grown ups has an undesirable and even painful consequence. Being completely prevented from even gentle biting, may mean that the puppy does not learn just how much force is safe to use on people. Why is bite inhibition for puppies so important? The trouble is, stopping biting is not the same as learning to control biting. The concern is that preventing the puppy from learning advanced bite inhibition may cause him to harm a human. Perhaps much later in life, when his bite is much more powerful and potentially dangerous. The answer is that there are triggers for biting, that may cause any dog, no matter how nice, to bite. Those triggers are fear, and pain. Many dogs that are injured, will bite for example. Many perfectly nice dogs that are trapped and tormented by a toddler, will eventually bite. We can do our best to make sure that our dog is never injured or tormented, but we cannot always be sure of protecting him. One day he may be hurt or badly teased, his growl of warning may be ignored. Small children are especially vulnerable in this kind of situation, as they fail to recognise the intention of a growling dog. If your dog is forced to defend himself, he may do what dogs do in this situation, and bite. Or at the very least, their homes. Most dog bites are not serious Although many people get bitten by dogs, fortunately, most dog bites are not serious. The reason for this is that most dogs do have good bite inhibition. So that if he is ever put in the awful situation of having to defend himself, he is able to pull his punches and give a mild warning bite. Essentially, by teaching good bite inhibition to our puppies, we are doing what we can to ensure that their bite is always inhibited. And never the bone crushing, devastating bite that a fully grown dog is capable of. How to teach your puppy bite inhibition What you will be doing is providing your dog with numerous opportunities to find that really painful bites are not rewarding for him. This means ending any game or cuddle, and if necessary removing yourself from his presence. Some puppies will stop biting if you squeak, squeal or yelp, and many people recommend that you do this. By all means try this. But be aware, the noise has no effect on some puppies and is encouraging to others. Your main trump card is the thing your puppy wants more than anything else — your attention. The rule for the first month is Withdraw all attention from the puppy for very hard bites Allow less painful biting and mouthing This is teaching him to reduce the force or pressure that he applies with his jaws. As a rough guide, aim for eliminating all painful biting by around three months of age Persistence and repetition in stopping your puppy biting Persistent repetition is the key. This is a process, not an event. If you correct the puppy for biting, be careful not to frighten him so much that he stops biting altogether. He needs to work through this learning process. Most experts now agree that it is better not to use correction at all for this process. Once you have withdrawn your attention for a short while, offer the puppy a toy to bite on or play with. Or let him sit on your lap and chew on a toy whilst you hold on to the other end. And become much more sensitive about how hard your puppy can bite. Until by about four or five months old, he is no more than gently mouthing at your hands. At this point, all force or pressure in his bite should be eliminated. The final stage of teaching bite inhibition Of course, mouthing is not acceptable in an adult dog. And the last phase in our training puts an end to mouthing. But as your kids approach the puppy, he starts biting and nipping them, causing a few surprised cries. The AKC says Labradors are an affectionate breed, treating adults, children, and other animals like family without causing any trouble. Labradors are easy to train and receptive to learning new commands since their main goal is to please their families. Do All Labrador Puppies Bite? As your new puppy settles into their new home, they are many stimulants, and he needs time to get to know your family, its new surroundings, and that not all slippers are a toy. Just as when people move to a new house, city, or country, your new Labrador puppy is exploring the world. This process will take a few weeks, so be patient. But what happens when he suddenly starts biting you and your kids? Every family that gets lab puppies faces this challenge. Although your puppy is only a few pounds, Labrador puppy biting is still painful. Many owners worry that the behavior will continue into adulthood, especially when biting becomes an ongoing issue. The good news is that there is usually a short time frame that you have to experience this. So in reality, Labrador puppy biting is primarily instinctual. Reason 1: Teething Puppies Sometimes, a Lab puppy biting is simply due to teething. Teething is uncomfortable, so your pup likely just wants to relieve that discomfort in any way possible. If that means biting a chew toy or your fingers, then so be it. Once your Lab puppy has its teeth, it might stop biting and nipping. You can help ease his comfort by offering him teething toys for puppies, like frozen chew toys. Reason 2: Excitement Biting Behavior Your new Lab puppy could get excited by just about anything: Your kids squealing, shouting, or crying, and adults shouting or being angry can set off your Lab puppy biting with its sharp teeth. The solution: Deter your puppy from biting you by redirecting him to what he can bite, like a toy. Reason 3: Biting for Attention Most Labrador puppies are receptive to conditioning and positive reinforcement. Dog lovers know that dogs crave attention from their families, but Lab puppies are extreme attention seekers. They love any form of contact with their families, whether playing, petting, or even just eye contact. So if your pup gets these responses from you while biting, he will interpret them as attention. The solution: Stop giving your puppy the attention he wants when he bites so he learns not to associate the two. When puppies are with their mom and siblings, the mom teaches them how hard they can bite each other without it being too painful through play fighting. Your Lab puppy learns how to calibrate strength based on his own family experience. Do Labrador Puppies Bite Children? One major adjustment is the play-biting: A small Lab puppy has a powerful bite and can cause pain, especially to such sensitive skin. The downside is that Lab puppies are more likely to bite children and teenagers than adults. It all comes down to learning how to interact with the puppy. Children and teenagers are inherently more confusing for a Lab puppy. The great news is that you can stop your Lab puppy from biting your kids through consistent training, but the training should be on both sides. Your kids also need to learn how to play and interact with the puppy, understanding its boundaries and playing just enough to keep them from overexciting. You plan to throw a chew toy into the yard for him to chase — but before you can throw it, he suddenly starts nipping and tugging at your hands while making odd puppy sounds that sound dangerously close to snarling. You might also be worried that you have a puppy displaying aggressive biting behavior. Most of the time, they mean no harm and just need a little training to control it! Without the proper guidance and education, many of these methods might be wrong: Instead of discouraging your puppy from biting, you could unintentionally reinforce it. Puppy Biting Tip 1: Discourage Play Biting Whatever stage of puppy development your adorable pup is in, he will always crave attention. If you encourage and reward play biting, he will associate it with attention, praise, and treats, causing him to do it more. So if your puppy has entered its biting phase and is displaying rough or aggressive behavior, stop yourself from giving any reaction. Simply follow rigid training steps, and it will eventually stop. Although that might be very hard to do because a Lab puppy is so adorable, you will thank yourself in the future for doing this. In fact, it might even make things worse. When you punish your Labrador, he might learn to fear you. This can worsen the biting and lead to your puppy developing more aggressive behavior as an adult. Some people also do a light swat on their puppies when they misbehave. When your pup starts biting, remain calm and follow positive training methods rather than negative ones. This is especially true when it comes to a nipping Labrador puppy. While a biting puppy is normal puppy behavior, without proper training and techniques, your Labrador might bite well into adulthood. Step 1: Teach Small Children Boundaries The first step in your training routine should be teaching your kids how to interact with the puppy. But if they start barking and biting out of excitement, you must stop playing with them immediately. Instead, pick up the toy and step away. Bite inhibition is when you teach your puppy how much is too much. After that time-out, you can return to the room and resume whatever activity you were doing. As your puppy learns to bite with less intensity, you can start training it not to put your hand in its mouth. This training takes time, so be patient, and you will see a positive result. Step 4: Reinforce with Additional Training You can also use other training techniques to reinforce positive behavior. Move your hand closer to the puppy and follow the same technique. If the puppy bites you, walk away from it. As you train the puppy to tolerate your hand getting closer to it without biting, you can finally keep your puppy calm and play safely without causing overstimulated biting. Puppies and dogs might go back to their bad habits if you change how you interact with them, so being consistent is crucial. Remember that children tend to take more time to learn training steps, so always reinforce the boundaries and supervise them during playtime in the early training days. Be patient and give your puppy time to learn. Seek help from professional trainers. Professional dog trainers are experienced in redirection, toy-play, and bite inhibition training to give you helpful tips and tricks. Take your puppy to puppy school. There are hundreds of puppy schools and programs that teach puppies good manners. Remember to never punish your puppy for biting. Invest in some good toys, such as different chew toys or Kong toys, so you always have something to redirect him towards. Conclusion Whether teething, scared or just excited, most Labrador Retriever puppies bite for various reasons. Unfortunately, those sharp little puppy teeth can hurt — so if you notice some unwanted biting from your Lab puppy, you should immediately start training him into different behavior. Learn more about what we do and check out our available Labrador puppies today! Share on.

You see our two legged children are all grown, or mostly grown, and we are pretty much empty-nesters. Our dogs have become much like our kids and they have actually given us grand-puppies, unlike our adult offspring. She is a four year old AKC registered Boxer and not only did people comment on how pretty she is, and what a nice confirmation she has, but total strangers come up to us and remark on how gentle and calm she is for a Boxer. Nope, not Leah. People in our town would randomly come up to use when we took her for a walk and ask us if you ever breed her we would be very interested in a puppy. Choosing a Stud Dog The first thing we did was bring her to the vet had have a health exam, make sure she was current on all her shots, and get x-rays for hip dysplasia. I wanted a match for her that complimented her coloring, body style and most of all her personality. We were looking for a gentle male and a breeder family that had the same goals of matching pups to families who would appreciate the Boxer breed and personality. Theo and Leah We found Theo online yes doggie computer dating and in January, before Leah went into heat, we visited his home and introduced the dogs. It was a doggie match made in heaven. The Surghoe family lives on an acreage in central Nebraska and have two young boys who are VERY involved in caring for the dogs and have the main job of socializing puppies. We compared papers, which in our case was really important because Leah was born about 40 miles away, and found no relation. We also inspected each others health records. One particular person who had shown and bred champion Boxers even felt the need to message me privately and complement me on Leah and her head confirmation and was very impressed with Theo as well. They too had fallen in love with her. She has her bed on the floor by my head. Supplies For Birthing Puppies. Leah was a very good mama. She had plenty of milk, and was very attentive to cleaning the pups and attentive to their little grunts and squeals. Our goal this week was to get Leah comfortable with us handling her puppies and convincing her to go leave them to outside to the bathroom. Several times I picked her up and carried her out the door,only to have her look through the screen window three minutes later with a look of fear that her babies were going to be harmed in some fashion. Leah continued to get a raw egg added to her food after whelping, just like she did during the end of gestation when we gradually changed her over to the high protein puppy food her pups would be eating. Like normal dogs, she ate very little leading up to labor and very little for first few days after whelping. This is why allowing the mother dog to eat and consume the puppy sacs and placenta of each pup, yes it sounds gross, but is natural and normal and necessary for protein and energy supplementation. I was more worried about her drinking enough water so she would produce enough milk, so several times a day I would place the bowl of water right under her nose and she would drink about a cup at a time. It took about two days before she would stand up and go to the edge of her whelping pool to eat and drink the food I placed in her elevated food dish. Pet Feeder Feeding Tray Removable 8 Although I immediately announced the arrival of our puppies on Facebook and the Boxer forum we restricted visitors to just immediate family the first week. With the exception of my own kids when they were babies, there is very little that is cuter and and more relaxing than holding and cuddling a puppy. I totally believe in imprinting and socializing puppies early, starting at day one. This accomplishes a few things, our scent is on each pup, thus they got used to our smell and Leah got used to our smell on them and this in turn I believe made her more relaxed. After about four days we could sit back in a chair in the room and cuddle a puppy while Leah stayed with the rest of her litter in the whelping pool. We were always careful in the early stages to only hold one to two pups at a time and made sure each pup got held an equal amount, although everyone in the house had a favorite. More Dog Stories by James Herriot Leah had seen him for routine vaccination, dewormings and her pre-breeding examination. We kept in communication with him in regards to the breeding date and expected whelping date and scheduled an appointment the Saturday morning of Leahs due date for her postpartum exam, puppy exams, dock their tails and have dewclaws removed. We worried how Leah would react, so the puppies first car trip was done with purpose and with a plan. Firs,t let Leah out to go to the bathroom. Second, have a small box with a heated rice bag under a blanket and close the top. Third, carry the puppy box into the back seat of the car where Leah would follow. This worked like a dream, the warmth kept the puppies comfortable and I would occasionally lift the lid to reassure Leah her puppies were fine. Why Dock Boxer Tails Boxer pups get their tails docked and dewclaws removed at three days of age. Boxers have had their tails docked for over a hundred years. Therefore breeders cannot tell by looking at a dog if they have a strong hefty tail, or a skinny very long weak tail. We arrived at the vets and I brought the puppies into the exam room and Leah stayed in the waiting room with my husband. I expected the puppy squealing to make her very anxious and worried. However everything was over and done in minutes with Leah being very calm and relaxed. Two stitches in their tail, then turned them over for dewclaw removal and back in the warm box they went. Only two pups let out an initial squeal and all were asleep by the time Mama came in 10 minutes later. She had lost about 5 lbs from her initial breeding weight and had a low-grade fever, so he gave her a general antibiotic as a precaution, gave her a Vitamin B shot and about a dozen cans of canned dog food to stimulate her appetite. He asked about her discharge, the rate of labor, how she was nursing, and examined her teats for mastitis or infection. This was a lesson in trust and one more important step in the puppy maturation process. After this Leah was more willing to go outside and leave her pups, and by day seven she was willingly getting up and going out. Stayed tuned for the next article and week two of a puppy adventures where they open their eyes. Raising Boxer Puppies. We again used Theo as the stud. I will always remember this litter with sweet memories. For a couple of reasons. One it was a very unusual very early spring. So even though they were born at the end of February the warm spring of March and April brought them outside to play early. Second Litter Statistics Birthday- February 22, 7 Pups — 3 fawns, 2 brindles, 1 white The second reason I will remember this litter is because of the friends we made. Julie brought her friend Penny to pick out a pup the first week they were born. I looked forward to our Saturday afternoons under the tree in the backyard. Julie with Brandy It was love at first sight for Penny and Rocket. Who would have known he would grow up to weigh 85 lbs. They had never had a dog yet Dad had grown up with Boxers. Their son was only about four years old and even docile Leah scared him. It was remarkable to watch the confidence grow over the eight weeks. By the time they took Rocket home, he was running with the puppies and seemed to have matured right along with them. If you love Boxer dogs then these pictures of Boxer puppies will make you want to get another Boxer puppy. I have never used newborn puppy collars, although many Boxer breeders use them for identification. I have been lucky that each of our pups has unique enough markings to identify them. Flashy Brindle Boxer Puppies — Spencer and Mumford It can sometimes be difficult in photos to tell them apart, but the one with the wider stripe is Mumford, the brindle pup on the left is Spencer. Since he started his early puppy months in Chicago, and he was white, this was appropriate. Spencer went to Oklahoma and joined a multi-generational Boxer family. We get a lot of referrals and if you are looking for a Boxer puppy in the Midwest please contact us to be put on a waiting list.

View All Articles in Training When to Start Training Your Pup While training may not be the first thing you think about when collecting your cute new bundle of floof from the breeder, it should certainly be up there on your priority list. Chances are, if you picked a good facility, your puppy will already have a leg up on the training ladder. Either way, the very best way to quickly make your new pet feel at home is to establish the boundaries of their behavior in a firm but fair manner. Take them outside to pee frequently and praise them when they do what you want them to do, but never punish any accidents. Every dog learns at their own speed, and training takes patience. Yet, the rules need to be in place from day one. If you let your pooch sleep on your bed one day but banish them from the bedroom the next, they are going to end up very confused. Routines that are established in these first few weeks will stick with your Berne. After all, these super-intelligent dogs learn fast. Compared with more excited, energetic Doodles, they can be a breeze to handle if you pick the right teaching method. Here are four of the best as recommended by canine experts: Positive Reinforcement Early ideas on dog training focused heavily on the owner asserting dominance over their pet through positive punishment shouting, hitting, and hurting. We have moved far away from these today. Such treatment often backfires, creating an anxious, aggressive dog that is liable to lash out when provoked. Now, most trainers make use of positive reinforcement methods. Instead of reacting to unwanted behaviors, they focus on rewarding the wanted ones. They do this through the use of attention, praise, toys, and treats. The idea is that if the dog associates a particular behavior with a reward, they are more likely to repeat that behavior. A potential issue with this technique is that sometimes bad behavior is its own reward. Say your dog likes to steal food from the counter or escape from the garden. In these instances, a negative punishment removing a favorite toy, treat, or simply your attention is recommended to let them know this is not acceptable. Clicker Training Based on the same principles as positive reinforcement, clicker training is the method most often utilized by doggy trainers. Secondly, it can be used at the exact moment your pup displays the wanted action. In this way, the positive behavior is very clearly marked. Of course, with this method, you first have to train your pal to associate the clicker with a future reward. Do this by encouraging them to obey a command they are already familiar with, using the clicker, and promptly feeding them a treat. With time a link will form between the two. Eventually, the clicker may even become the reward itself — the signal of a job well done for your dog. This desire to mimic as a way of pleasing the leader is a natural behavior among pack animals in the wild. They are given the freedom to engage in dog-like behaviors within reason. Training often occurs off the leash and focuses on promoting actions associated with hunting, defending, and retrieving. Socialization plays a crucial role in mirror training. Owners are encouraged to include their pooch in all aspects of their lives so as to build a strong bond with them. Getting out and about with other dogs is also vital. Pack-animal mentality means that positive behaviors are also acquired this way. Relationship-Based Training As the name suggests, relationship-based training is also highly focused on the bond between pet and owner. The idea is that any training built on a solid and trusting relationship is likely to be far more effective. You are looking to learn everything you can about your pup and their specific needs. The aim is to be in tune with their emotions, be able to accurately interpret their body language, and understand what motivates them. Positive reinforcement methods are then used to shape behavior. At the same time, the environment is closely controlled to set the dog up for success. So, for instance, you try not to leave temptation in their way if it can be avoided. This training takes a little longer than other kinds but can offer more success in the long run. Training Items You Absolutely Need for Your Doodle Depending on the method you opt for, you will need a few tools to guarantee success. For instance, with each one, you will require reward items such as treats and toys. Here are some toys that will work for Bernies. Aside from that, you will want a good quality collar or harness and leash for outside training. Opt for a harness if your puppy likes to pull. These are generally better for bigger, more powerful dogs such as Bernedoodles, anyway, as they give you a little more control. Many owners also choose to crate train their pup. This has a number of advantages, including giving your dog a place that is all theirs, a place where they can feel safe and secure. Check out our dedicated articles on leash training and crate training for more specific advice on each one. However, it also increases the likelihood of them snatching food from tables and counters if not closely supervised. When they obey, offer pets and praise, and they will soon get the hang of it. Avoid mixed messages by never feeding your pup from the table. Jumping While Bernedoodles tend to be cautious with strangers, the opposite is true with those they love. They may demonstrate their enthusiasm by jumping up to say hello — not ideal if your Bernie is on the larger side. It can be challenging for owners who appreciate all the loving to discourage such behavior, but not everyone enjoys being sent flying. While the natural response might be to push your pup down, they will likely view this as part of the game. Instead, the best thing to do is withdraw your attention. Turn away from your dog without a sound and cross your arms over your chest. If they keep jumping up, then simply turn around and leave the room. If you are having problems with a noisy hound, try to identify what might lie underneath the behavior rather than simply trying to control it. Barking can signal an array of issues — everything from boredom to anxiety. So, pay attention to when it occurs. Bernedoodles, being highly sociable dogs, are prone to separation anxiety, so if your pup is disturbing the neighbors when you are away from the house, this is likely the problem. Find out what you can do about separation anxiety here. Early and thorough socialization is the best preventative measure for this. Pulling on the Leash A common issue among most young pups, pulling on the leash can be a serious problem with Bernedoodles, though — especially when they are on the larger side. This behavior usually occurs simply because your pup is excited to be outside, and that enthusiasm translates to them wanting to get to the dog park as quickly as they can. Mastering walking on the leash mostly just takes practice. You need to be firm and not let them get away with doing it at any time. If your Berne starts to get ahead of you, simply stop, make them sit if you can, and begin to walk again only when they are a bit calmer. See here for more leash training tips and tricks. Digging Just like barking, digging tends to be a symptom of an underlying problem like boredom. The thing with Doodles is that incredible intelligence makes them less likely to be satisfied with merely hanging out in the yard all day. They need to be kept both physically and mentally stimulated. If they are not… bring on the destructive behaviors! Digging is a firm doggy favorite. The trick is to divert their attention to something else. If they are getting enough walks and plenty of affection, try throwing a few toys into the mix. Puzzle toys have been designed specifically to keep clever canines entertained for longer. Finally, try giving your dog a designated space in the garden to dig far away from the fence and your favorite plants and flowers. Biting and Mouthing While common in young pups, especially when teething, aggressive biting is not a Bernedoodle trait. Herding dogs such as Bernes might nip to get you to go where they want to go a behavior they can easily be trained out of. Still, if your pup is getting a little vicious for no reason, you could have a problem. If it is just puppy teething — not fun in any way when they are having at you with those needle-sharp teeth — consider investing in a high-quality teething toy such as one of these. They could be feeling particularly anxious about something — a new person or other kinds of changes in the household. Alternatively, they might be sick and in pain. If you are confident that they are getting enough nutrition for their weight and life stage, chances are your hound is just looking for something fun to chew on and taking it to the extreme. Again, chew toys are the best answer. They will keep your pet occupied and help them to fulfill their natural instinct for mouthing. This is what keeps their teeth clean and their jaws healthy, after all. The issue should resolve itself in no time at all. Especially because most breeders begin this process long before you pick your new puppy up. Just keep things consistent, and you will get there fairly quickly and painlessly. A few things you can do are: take your pup out to the place you want them to go on a regular basis. Designate a specific command and offer lots of love, hugs, and praise when they do what you ask of them. Never punish any accidents — this could actually set your dog back. Some owners recommend crate training for puppies who are having a slightly more difficult time getting the hang of it all. When To Get Professional Help If your pup starts or continues to display behavior issues such as aggression, food aggression, excessive barking, destructive chewing, mounting, or separation anxiety, it is likely that he will need special attention to address them. The best way to deal with Doodle behavior issues is to hire a trainer, or a behaviorist to come to your home for a one-on-one consult. Not only will you learn the skills you need to be successful, but your puppy will learn incredible manners and behaviors as well! See Also: Click the image Amy helps you set up your home, get your family all on the same page and teaches you exactly what to do the second your puppy arrives for optimal training success. You can also schedule LIVE! Office Hours for one-on-one help with Amy and participate in weekly online puppy classes right in your living room! Need help with training? We recommend this on top of group classes. By the way, the skills they teach works for any dog at any age. Bernedoodles, with their incredible intelligence and people-pleasing manner, are relatively easy to train compared to other dogs. Keep things light, fun, and interesting, and you should be able to teach your pal to do just about anything within reason. How do you train a Bernedoodle puppy? There are various training methods. The one you subscribe to will be the one that works best for you and your pup. How do you discipline a Bernedoodle? Discipline is a tricky business in the world of canines. Experts agree that shouting and hitting simply do not work in the long run. Bernedoodles are awesome dogs, and you will never regret adding one to your household. However, they do take a fair bit of looking after. February 7, In search of a new forever best friend? Not sure what puppy breed works best for you and your family? When it comes to having the best of both worlds, Bernedoodles are it! These mixed breed designers pups were bred to be the perfect companion dog and quickly rose up in the ranks of popular puppy breeds over the last two decades! How do you know if a Bernedoodle is a right fit for you and your family? A Brief Background on Bernedoodles! Sherry Rupke of Swissridge Kennels claims to be the very first breeder that purposely cross-bred two purebreeds: Standard Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog. Since this breed is only approximately two decades old, the American Kennel Club still does not consider the Bernedoodle a purebred. Nevertheless, the rise in popularity has also led to many more breeders producing these pups. If you were interested in bringing a Bernedoodle home, while there are many reputable breeders that specialize in these pups, you can also find these pups in shelters or rescue groups that focus on Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs, to potentially find these mixed pups! What are Bernedoodle Breed Characteristics? When it comes to range, few breeds can beat the Bernedoodle! These pups come in a variety of sizes and coat colors. Bernedoodles come in a few different sizes: tiny, miniature, medium, and standard. They can range in weight from ten pounds in the tiny category all the way to ninety pounds in the standard category. Along with variety in sizes, their coats can be within a range from completely black, black and white, black and brown, or tri-colored with patches of either black, white, or brown. Probably the most common coat and markings people seek when looking for a Bernedoodle puppy is the tri-color variety that is in closer resemblance to the Bernese Mountain Dog. Depending on which side of their genetic makeup your pup takes after, some Bernedoodle pups coats can be curly, or wavy like the Standard Poodle and not shed as much making them a good candidate for parents who suffer from allergies. Other Bernedoodle pups can have straighter coats that have a tendency to shed more and are not hypoallergenic. What are Bernedoodles Personalities like? The Puppy Academy student, Hamilton! Goofy, smart, loyal to their families, and friendly, these pups have the best personality traits from both sides! Most Bernedoodles parents pick these pups because of their good demeanors and temperaments. Your puppy may lean toward the Standard Poodle side, depicting traits of high intelligence, hard-working, and loyal. Or your puppy can lean toward the Bernese Mountain Dog which is good-natured, confident, and affectionate. Some Bernese Mountain Dogs can be stubborn, in particular during their adolescent phase, and a bit aloof or standoffish toward strangers. With good basic obedience and early socialization, any Bernedoodle can make a great fit for a family and develop friendly demeanors toward new people. While these pups are considered to be working dogs and do require daily exercise, they are also content with hanging out with you at home. Moderate exercises such as one to two longer walks, with play sessions in between, a day is sufficient to burn off energy and keep your pup content! Tiny and Mini Bernedoodles are better equipment for urban environment living whereas Medium to Standard sized Bernedoodles would need more space to exercise and play. No matter the size of your Bernedoodle puppy, they are going to need adequate exercise, which is why they do really well with active families! Tiny and Mini Bernedoodles will require a bit less activity and can adapt to tighter living spaces that come with urban environments such as apartments or condos. As for Medium to Standard-sized Bernedoodles which are taller and wider and can grow upwards of ninety pounds, they may be bumping into more coffee tables and have trouble fitting in the same hallway as you in smaller dwellings! For all sizes, access to either a fenced-in yard or a nearby park you can take them to is ideal for this breed! How to Care for Your Bernedoodle Puppy! When it comes to caring for your new Bernedoodle puppy, start off by scheduling a first veterinarian visit within the first week of bringing your puppy home! Like many large breed working dogs, Bernedoodle may suffer from joint dysplasia. Bernese Mountain Dogs have been known to suffer blood disorders, some cancers, and progressive retinal atrophy. Generally, Bernedoodles are healthy and sturdy especially if they come from a reputable breeder. General care for your Bernedoodle puppy will include brushing their teeth to avoid tooth decay, gum disease, and bad breath. Floppy ears means they may be susceptible to ear infections so regularly check and clean them to avoid these from happening. Because their coat types can vary, depending on your puppy, if they have a curly coat you may need to frequently brush them to avoid matting. We recommend that you take your puppy to a professional groomer every few months to get their fur trimmed. The Puppy Academy student, Cali! Create a Daily Puppy Training Schedule Bernedoodle puppies are smart and easily trained but they can have a stubborn streak as they get into their adolescence. Creating early structure at home can help mitigate this stubbornness by establishing daily routines your puppy can expect and also establish you as leader. Since Bernedoodles are made up of two intelligent hard-working breeds, basic obedience training with food positive reinforcement will benefit their behavioral growth! Socialize Your Bernedoodle Puppy with People, Children, and Other Pets Bernedoodles have friendly dispositions and make great family dogs, however, they can be standoffish to new people as they get older. Use Play to Help Train Them Tap into their playful nature and use your playtime sessions together to teach good manners! For example, use Fetch to teach your Bernedoodle how to come to you, Drop-it to give the toy back, then ask them to sit to teach polite manners as they learn to wait until you toss the toy again for them to get. Although Bernedoodles love to work, they sometimes need a bit more motivation! This can come with the aid of food rewards, and providing variation to their training routines to keep them engaged. Enrolling your puppy in training classes, or working with them by yourself at home using a program like our online puppy school will give you a plan to follow with basic training routines to teach your Bernedoodle good manners, as well as keep challenging them along the way so they never get bored, and advance their skillset! Did you recently bring home a Bernedoodle puppy? Are you still planning and not sure what breed fits your lifestyle? Let us know in the comments! Check out these blogs related to puppy training and more! Home Info Which Doodle is best for you? This allows you to enjoy the companionship of each other early on. Start your Bernedoodle puppy training from the moment you bring it home. Remember that each dog has its unique traits. No dog is the same. Same with us humans. Even identical twins have their unique characteristics which makes them different from each other. Bernedoodle are loyal companion dogs that require moderate activity. Train them to complement your way of life. Bernedoodles are the cross-breed between a Bernese Mountain Dog and a Poodle. Both parents are also excellent breeds - intelligent, friendly, and easy-to-train dogs. Just like other pets, no matter how smart they are, they would still require training and guidance. As a pet owner, we collated this guide that would significantly benefit you. Imagine how wonderful would it be to have such an obedient and well-mannered dog right? Learn on! This is an important stage in honing a happy and meaningful relationship with your pet. The best way to jumpstart your Bernedoodle puppy training program is to research your puppy. Training old dogs requires a different set of tricks and a level of patience. Learning would only be different. For example, you are trying to teach a puppy to fetch a ball for about an hour. It won't have the stamina to learn how to fetch a ball for 60 minutes. But, you can still teach them less rigorous tricks such as shaking hands or retrieving their toys. Having to train the puppies at such a young age helps them develop that muscle and mental memory to be able to do the trick. It provides them with the strong foundation that they would be needing growing up. The young age of these puppies is a critical learning period. Their minds are like a sponge, always eager to learn. For those owning Bernedoodle, take advantage of their intelligence and willingness to be trained. Some research suggests that the learning stage for puppies is between 0 to 16 weeks old. It is the most crucial stage in their development. This is also considered the period where they learn to socialize with other canines. The first two weeks are when they still rely largely on their moms. Basic Obedience Training for Bernedoodle Puppies One important thing to remember during Bernedoodle puppy training is to know when to praise them and give them treats and when not to. When it comes to basic obedience training, this is where these canines learn how to sit, stay, come, fetch, walk, and other simple instructions you tell them to. Believe us when we say that your life will be so much easier if your dogs learn how to follow basic obedience instructions. Although Bernedoodles are known to be smart dogs, do not start training them with complex instructions. Start with simple ones that they can easily follow. Remember that consistency plays an important part in their learning. To make the training more fun for them, use positive reinforcement. Give them treats for a job well done. You can also pet them or praise them whenever they can follow your instructions. Make sure to repeat the command using different techniques such as changing environments, adding noises, or other forms of distractions. This will train them to follow instructions despite being in a tough environment. Patience is the key. Do not shout or scold your dogs if they fail to deliver what is expected. Crate Training for Bernedoodle Puppies Crate training is important so that your pets feel that they have a safe space within your home. This could also be used when you are doing your Bernedoodle potty training. During the crate training, you can start by putting their favorite blankets or toys inside the crate. Watch carefully how they would react. Those items should encourage them to walk voluntarily inside the crates. Never force or push them to enter the crates. Once your pet has entered the crate, take short intervals leaving it close. You can slowly extend the duration over time. If you see your pet panicking right away, you can open the door. Repeat the process until your pet gets more comfortable leaving the door closed over a long period. This process should be done slowly and in progression to avoid anxiety and panic for your pets. Remember, the crate should be used to help them potty train and should serve as a secure place for them. Do not use it as a form of punishment. But this roommate of yours is four-legged and could cause trouble and headache if not trained well. If you want to be living peacefully together with your furry friend, make sure to house trained it. Consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement are key for a successful Bernedoodle potty training journey. Socialization Training for Bernedoodle Puppies Socialization is vital for dogs, especially for Bernedoodle who enjoy the company of other dogs. Through socialization class, these puppies learn to interact with otter dogs. This is integral in forming their behaviors. This is also helpful for getting them accustomed to dealing with different people, different environments. If you want a confident dog, you will have to let them interact with other animals. Even if it's not their first time interacting with people or other dogs, make sure to watch your pet carefully, they could experience anxiety or discomfort during socialization. This can include off-leash training, advanced commands, and even specialized training such as agility or therapy work. Make sure that you enroll in a reputable training school where you can learn advanced training. This is where more complex and challenging tricks will be taught and can be learned by your pet. This breed can be stubborn at times. Asking it to follow your instruction could be challenging. Breathe in, be patient, and be creative with your training session. Excessive barking. This breed can't bark excessively even if they are happy. Make sure to address this during your training. Understand what triggers them to consistently bark so you can address the issue. These are just some of the problems that you may have to deal with while training your pet. If you are having a hard time resolving them, do not hesitate to ask a professional trainer or breeder. They have years of experience in dealing with this breed. You may also seek the guidance of a vet. Tips for Successful Bernedoodle Puppy Training If you want to be successful in your puppy training journey, follow these tips below. Begin training at an early age: The sooner you start the training, the earlier they can learn and follow your instructions. The better for both of you. Stay consistent: For the puppy to learn faster, be consistent in giving instructions. Established rules which are to be followed at all times. Apply positive reinforcement: Use treats, praise, and play to motivate to reward your Bernedoodle and make training fun for both of you. Never shout or hurt your pet, especially during times of stubbornness. Be patient: it takes time to learn. Humans also learn over time so be patient. Ask for professional help. If things are getting out of hand and you're finding it too difficult to handle, seek guidance from a professional. They will provide you with the knowledge to help you out. Recommended Resources for Bernedoodle Puppy Training To better equip you with information on training your pets, here are some of the resources you can check. Sophia Yin 2. Local Dog Training Classes: Check with your local pet stores, community centers, or dog training facilities for puppy training classes in your area. You can start with one resource first and see if the information aligns with your goal and your way of life. You can slowly progress on the resources as your training progresses too. We respect your privacy. Unsubscribe at anytime. Therefore, this article is dedicated to establishing some Bernedoodle training ground rules to make training as smooth for both you and your dog. Even though they are designer dogs, they are not meant to be trained for dog shows. If you like partying, you can have your Bernedoodle accompany you. If you like lying around, you can have your Bernedoodle accompany you. The breed is moderately active. Therefore, they can take on any activity you would want them to take on, as long as you give them enough rest. Since a Bernedoodle will always want to accompany you, it is best to train them according to your schedule and lifestyle. If you lead a super active lifestyle, we suggest you train your dog to be docile in the outdoor environment. However, if you like to stay at home, you can teach them basic household chores such as bringing a towel, etc. Try not to put too many irrelevant commands in their minds because their goofy minds might end up getting confused. Train Them Early Train them early to reap the fruits in the long run. Bernedoodles tend to get too comfortable in their surroundings and, as quick learners, adapt to habits in no time. Before getting a puppy, we suggest you plan a mini-vacation for the first week of your companionship. You can devote this first week to bond with your Bernedoodle puppy and training them diligently. Teach them a few obedience commands right when you get them. When a puppy is given too much time to themselves before training, they pick up naturally bad habits and are generally crate trained. Therefore, they get stuck learning only the basic commands for most of their life. However, if you train your puppy early, they will adopt a curious and adventurous mind. Therefore, they will learn how to do advanced tricks and abbey special commands in no time. After all, a Bernedoodle is a companion dog and will adapt to the way you live. Therefore, if you live a train dedicated to active training, they will live that way too. However, if you get lazy with training, they will slack off in picking up commands. Always Use Positive Reinforcements Dogs are sensitive to your behavior — so tread carefully. Something to be careful about — not only with Bernedoodles is how sensitive they can be towards your behavior. If you show them anger — they will either reciprocate it or feel stressed about your negative emotion. Dogs — like humans — cannot learn and perform while they are under stress. Therefore, it is best to make them feel welcome during their training session. Many dog trainers in the past used to punish dogs for not performing the desired command. However, doing that to a Bernedoodle can lead to anxiety and long-term bonding issues. The best way to train a Bernedoodle is to use positive reinforcements. Positive reinforcements are the act of awarding your dog for good behavior instead of punishing him for bad ones. Positive reinforcements allow the dog to create a stronger bond with you. Moreover, it allows the dog to be happy with his training sessions instead of dreading them. Laser-Sharp Focus Dogs get distracted easily, but they will not learn any complex commands unless they can focus. Much like humans, dogs need to be idle to focus on the task at hand. Whether you want to teach your dog new commands or want them to stay quiet for a while, they cannot do it until they are focused. The best way to teach your Bernedoodle to focus is to teach them the sit and stay command combination. Once your dog knows how to sit on command, move a little away from him and continue commanding him to sit. Add the stay command and slowly increase the duration of each stay session. When your dog knows how to stay until further notice, they will learn how to do nothing even when there might be some distractions around. Unless the dog learns not to do anything, he will never learn how to stay focused and learn new tricks. Take Them Outdoors — Learn from Experiences Outdoors is the perfect place for your dog to learn many visual cues and boost their sensory development. When you take your dog outdoors, two things happen — they interact with the world around them other than you, and they get physical exercise. When a dog gets to interact with a world other than you and your house, they learn several visual cues. Moreover, being outdoors with your dog is the perfect opportunity for you to gauge how he responds to other animals, strangers, and children. Most Bernedoodles are likely to be friendly and docile with other animals and strangers. Therefore, you will not have to make them undergo extensive training. However, some might get aggressive and will need specialized training to be friendly. Being outdoors also gives the dog the physical stimulation it needs to go about his day properly. If dogs have too much pent-up energy in them, they tend to develop destructive and aggressive behavior. Give Them Mental Games to Play Physical stimulation is important, but so is mental stimulation, which is why brain training for your dog is vital. How well your dog is mentally stimulated makes a huge difference in how well he can be trained. However, the same is true too. The more mentally stimulated the dog, the more intelligence he is likely to develop. The more intelligent the dog, the easier it will be to train him. Bernedoodles, in general, tend to be highly intelligent dogs — therefore, they like to be mentally stimulated and like to learn new things every other day. If a Bernedoodle is not adequately mentally stimulated, he will become sad and aggressive. The best way to mentally stimulate your Bernedoodle to keep his mind sharp enough for rigorous training is simple. You can get your dog to try a new command every three days. This will give them enough challenge to feel stimulated but not too much to overwhelm and distress them — which brings up the next ground rule. Training can be very difficult for your dog to wrap his head around. Therefore, while continuous training sessions are vital, it is necessary to keep each session short. Therefore, it is best to keep them happy about training for only minutes a stretch and let them imbibe the commands you teach them. An overworked dog will end up feeling too tired to obey the commands they have learned. Therefore, the best way to keep them from burning out is to teach consistently but gradually. If you are teaching the basic sit command to your dog, make sure you only make a few repetitions in one go. Too many repetitions will make your dog resist the training and resent the next session. Allow your dog at least two days to learn a command as simple as sit. Reinforce their training with the first few repetitions and slowly do away with the treats once they start to get the hang of the command — even if it takes a few days. Bernedoodles are companion dogs and love to spend all their time with their family. However, they are also very sensitive and need to learn how to be alone at an early age. If your dog is used to being with you at all times as a puppy, not having you around for even a short duration can be a cause of significant distress and sadness for them. When your puppy is only in his socializing stage, make sure you give him time to himself. Therefore, he will learn to feel comfortable in your absence. The best way to do so is to let the puppy move around in your house while you stay out of their sight for a while. Begin with 10 minutes of solitude, and you can gradually increase the time to hours at a stretch. This resonates with the ground rule of training your Bernedoodle in accordance with your lifestyle. If you need to go out to work for most of the day, train your puppy to learn your schedule. When you return home, make sure you spoil him with a lot of treats. This will let the dog understand that even if you leave them alone for a while, you will come back and shower him with love when you return. Use the Leash Wisely The leash is the first and last control you have over your dog. Therefore, it is important to use it accurately. Your dog will learn to associate the leash with training and walking, which should induce excitement in him. You must never use a leash to get strict or punish a dog. Otherwise, he will associate the leash with negativity. Dogs tend to associate places and objects with emotions. Therefore, once they have associated the leash with negativity, they will never be happy to be on a leash even while training and walking. Using a leash while training your dog is very important. This is especially true for Bernedoodles because even as intelligent dogs, they tend to be very distracted. If your dog is not on a leash while training, it will become difficult to keep him in one place. You can start walking your dog on a leash and teach him to stay at your heel. Once you are confident enough that your dog will not run off towards distractions and will listen to you if you call him, you can try walking him without the leash as well. However, the transformation from with to without a leash should be done very slowly and carefully. It is best to start the transformation within the confines of your home so that your dog will still be in reach if he runs off. However, their loyalty can cause problems when not trained properly. However, mixed with Poodle traits, the dog might not have any chill. If your dog is also aggressive in nature, he is likely to be too protective. This leads to them being suspicious of anyone who comes to your house. They might even have a tendency to bite. Therefore, you need to teach him the boundary between loyal and aggressively loyal. Loyalty is an inept trait in Bernedoodles. Therefore, you have to focus on training him not to be aggressive to anyone in your house. The answer is not to tie him up when someone visits — that will only make him more aggressive. You must make sure the dog is comfortable with people entering your house. To do so, you can walk your dog on a leash to the door when guests arrive. When your guest arrives, give the sit command and allow the guest to give him a treat — but only if the dog is sitting and not being aggressive. Once the guest is inside, you can allow your dog to roam freely and give him treats whenever he is not aggressive. This will teach him to trust having strangers in the house in your presence. Biting Training Dogs can nib — but teach them not to bite. As mentioned earlier, dogs are very receptive to your emotions. We will use that dog characteristic to our advantage. You can allow your dog to nib on your hand. This will let your dog know that they hurt you by putting pressure with their jaws on your hand. Eventually, with enough treats and repetitions, the dog will learn not to apply pressure to avoid causing pain. Make sure your dog is well-adept to not apply pressure while nibbling. Once that is done, you can ask your family or friends trusted by your dog to follow the same command sequence. This way, the dog will eventually learn not to bite either you or any other human around him. Every time your dog refrains from putting pressure while nibbling, award him with a treat. You will end up with a fierce dog who is not afraid to scare but will not cause harm unless he senses danger. Summing Up Bernedoodle is an interesting dog breed. With high intelligence, loyalty, and goofiness, they are extremely adorable. Their curiosity also makes them easy to train as long as you start training them as soon as you get them. With the right blend of positive reinforcements, accurate tool usage, scheduling, and patience, you can train your Bernedoodle to be the best companion dog there is. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. If used properly, they can be a wonderful safe haven for your pet. At Premier Doodles, we start this process early on and all of our puppies from weeks will have multiple crates available in their kennel kept in our master bedroom. They learn what we call a Positive Conditioned Emotional Response PCER which means they come to learn that the crate is a great place to be and have to train this. The crate should be big enough for your pet to stand up, lay down and turn around. Don't worry about dividers as most all of our bernedoodles are great in the crate. Should accidents begin to appear on one side of the crate you'll have to creatively reduce the amount of space they have inside the crate. IMPORTANT NOTE: you will need to purchase two crates, one at the back door with a connected x-pen or other type of portable fencing that is clipped onto the crate to make a small play area, and the other next to your bed if you want maximum success. We have a YouTube channel called Premier Doodles where we have a short video showing what this setup looks like. The crate should be used to safely confine your pet when you are away from home, at night and for short periods of time when you are unable to watch them. We do not recommend keeping any type of collar on your pet while in the crate or in your home.It is important that from the very beginning, you never use your crate to punish your pet. You must make it a positive experience from the start. We want to create a PCER. You most definitely can confine your pet for short periods of time when they are misbehaving, but you never want to place your pet in there in a harsh or negative manner. If your pet develops a fear or dislike to their crate, it can be a very difficult situation to turn around. The crate should be a safe haven for your pet. It is an area that they should be able to go to and feel secure and comfortable. Use softer chew toys as they are more quiet at night time especially while you're sleeping. This includes bedding. We will attempt to put old towels or perhaps even an old sheet in my dogs crate but if they start to chew them, out they come. It is not worth the risk to have a pet ingest something that literally can kill them or cost a hefty price to have surgically removed. We usually keep our pets in their crate at night until they are able to hold their potty all night and they understand that we sleep at night, we don't "party". We want our dogs in the bedroom at night so we will then use a baby gate to keep them in there with us at night. They are typically crated during the day while we are gone until they are approximately 2 years of age. That is the average for dogs to mature especially bernedoodles. This may seem like a long time, but it is well worth the patience. Dogs that are well socialized are a pure pleasure to be around. They are far more "stable" than an un-socialized pet. They are much less likely to get themselves into trouble, which could ultimately get you into "big" trouble. This couldn't be further from the truth. They should always be socialized with safe, healthy dogs that are tolerant of obnoxiouspuppies. It is a common misconception that a lot of people believe that in order to have a "protective" dog, you must keep it away from people. You must praise or encourage inappropriate behavior, i. In reality, a dog that is well socialized is every bit as likely to alert you, or perhaps even defend you in the face of danger. The critical difference is: An un-socialized dog is going to assume that every single person, child etc. They have a much higher ability to "perceive" what is a true threat than the unfortunate un-social dog. The un-socialized pet is actually one that is running on fear of the "unknown". The reality is this: You should be getting a pet for a "pet". They should be a well-loved, properly cared for member of your family. To get a "pet" solely for "protection" is usually a recipe for disaster. We all can take comfort in the fact that all dogs usually alert us to something "different" in or around the house. That in itself is a huge deterrent to someone who is up to no good. To rely on a pet to keep us totally safe from harm, is not fair to the dog, nor should it be "their'' responsibility alone. A final note: To allow a dog to pick and choose what they perceive as a threat, to not socialize your dog, to not properly train and provide care for your dog, to not allow your dog to be a member of the family, is almost ALWAYS a disaster in the making. Insurance companies, Boarding Kennels, Hotels, Apartments, etc. There are certain Breeds of dogs that are not "welcome". There are no "bad" breeds in my opinion, but unfortunately, there are literally thousands of "bad" owners. Expose your pet to all different types of people, noises, environments etc. Do not force your pet to accept strangers, nor do you want to coddle fearful behavior. Do be mindful that your new puppy is not fully vaccinated until 16 weeks of age. Until then, you can still get them out and in car rides and with a rubbermaid tote can put into a cart at Lowe's and let them hear and see new people. Do yourself a favor and socialize your pet. You and they will be glad you did! They need to be corrected the instant the unwanted behavior occurs. They live in a world of cause and effect. Dogs live in the NOW. Corrections have to happen in the NOW. The quickest way to teach your dog that you are not trustworthy is to punish your dog with physical violence or to reprimand him for some action that he is not presently engaged in. Abuse is never acceptable, hitting a dog is never acceptable. You cannot use fear as a means of making an animal behave; it doesn't work. Showing an animal strong leadership and giving rules is not the same thing as instilling fear and administering inappropriate punishment. Never correct an animal out of anger of frustration. When you try and correct your dog out of anger, you are usually more out of control than your dog is. You are fulfilling your own needs, not the animals. Negative attention is better than no attention at all This is something that most parents can relate to as well. Whether this is laying down napping, playing with appropriate toys, sitting before being allowed outside, greeting people, etc. My number 1 rule for solving behavioral problems is to NOT reinforce them. Extinguish them or better yet work to not let them creep up into their pattern of life. Simply put, if your dog is acting out inappropriately and you react to it, you are very likely reinforcing that behavior. You may be reacting negatively, but you are reacting. However; if you re-direct your pet to something appropriate and then reward them for that, you will usually end up extinguishing the behavior that you do not want. For example: If your dog is jumping on you and you scream, yell, push or otherwise acknowledge the pet, you are reinforcing that behavior. Have you ever seen a "sane" dog repeatedly attack a telephone pole for no reason???? Having said that, you must also use common sense. If "Fido" is chewing on an electrical cord, you can not simply ignore it. What you should do is very quickly but calmly get up and with a sharp "NO" correct the pup and then immediately re-direct the pup to something appropriate. Reward for correct behavior. But it doesn't have to be! And with our Premier bernedoodles you'll find them to be one of the easiest puppies to housebreak because we have already started this process well before you bring your new puppy home. The following tips are helpful, if followed, in making a great and fun time less stressful for you and your pup! Once your puppy is a little bit older, they almost always can hold their potty overnight. The crate should be big enough for your puppy to standup, turnaround, and lay down. Our bernedoodle puppies do great in a Midwest XL wire crate. Puppies should be fed 3 times per day, at the very least they need to be fed 2 times per day. Please talk to your Veterinarian about your abilities to feed your pet and follow their advice. We personally do not recommend "paper'' training a puppy. No matter how you look at it, it is giving the puppy permission to use the bathroom in the house. It, of course, is a personal choice and some people's work schedule does not allow for anything different. Just keep in mind, it will be more difficult to change the "way of thinking" for the older puppy and you need to be patient Young puppies need to potty much more frequently than older puppies. Take that into consideration when housebreaking. We typically take our puppies out every minutes the first week after coming home, whether we think they need to go or not. This will be increased to hours after a few weeks. The first order of business should always be to potty when first going outside. Take your puppy to the area you want them to go and give them just a short amount of time to take care of business. When they are outside we start using potty commands Go Potty for 1 and Go Poo Poo for 2 at about 4 weeks of age and we even start using these phrases the first weeks. We repeat these phrases until they posture to do their business, at which time we shut up. As soon as they are done like the millisecond! We also do this in the wee hours of the morning but without this excitement and never with the lights on. Then take them back out to the potty area and try again. Once they have pottied, they have earned some time to play, explore, etc. Puppies are like small children, they need to be watched at all times, they need to learn right from wrong and they need a chance to be puppies! Get the puppy outside immediately while somebody else is cleaning up the mess. We use OdoBan to take all odors out so that it does not become a place that smells like an area to relieve themselves. You must use common sense when taking water away. If it is hot, the puppy has been playing hard, etc. You can also give ice cubes. Make sure you take your puppy outside right before you go to bed. If they immediately start crying you need to ignore them - they are seeking attention, and giving it to them even negative is teaching them that "this is the way to get attention". Place the puppy down and let them take care of business. Again we are saying quietly "Go Potty". Once they've gone potty, quietly praise them "Good potty" and take them right back to their crate. Do not play with your puppy, or otherwise encourage them to "wake" up, or that very well may be their incentive to "party" at 3 a. Once your puppy has developed a little more control, you will find that they start sleeping throughout the night in no time. In the beginning, they physically cannot hold their potty all night, once they can however; it is not in their best interest to get up in the middle of the night unless it has been made "rewarding"to them. We always get our puppies out immediately after eating and drinking. If after 15 minutes they don't go potty we will bring back inside and place in a crate. About 5 minutes later we will take back outside and repeat this process until they have relieved themselves. This is so common that most puppies will go through this at some point in their early part of their life. The best thing you can do is to try to avoid doing those things that seem to bring this behavior about. This is normal. If this behavior continues best to have a veterinarian check for a UTI. Here are some tips to help: Use a crate when you cannot supervise. Put his crate near a door allowing him to get outside quickly, potentially avoiding an accident. Keep quiet but relaxed. Ignore his behavior. Build up gradually to new things. Do basic obedience training. Make it fun and confidence building. Using lots of obedience commands and praises helps distract. Take him out regularly to do his business so his bladder will not build up pressure every 15 minutes. Do not go straight to his crate when entering a room. Allow him to calm down first, before letting him out. Just ignore the dog and walk past. When you go to the crate to let him out do so quietly. When out in the yard, do not call him up to you but walk slowly around with him. Give him a command to urinate and praise him calmly using voice only when he does. Do everything slowly and work at making your body language calm and unconcerned. Keep verbal volume low. Get down at ground level. Or sit on a low chair. Be non-threatening. Spend time sitting with him by your side on a leash. Take him for walks where he can gradually be exposed to the situations that trigger his urination. Ask friends to practice no touch, no talk, no eye contact around him. Avoid situations and people that you cannot control until your dog is learning to control himself and gain confidence. Submissive urination can be annoying, but exhibiting your frustration to your dog only makes it worse way worse as this is the very reason why they will sometimes do it. With a little planning and adjusting your attitude, you can minimize and overcome the problem which will disappear anyways but mine as well help along the line. However,there are rules that must be followed. If you ignore the rules, you should not play at all. If played properly, these games are some of the best anti-aggression exercises you can practice with your dog. Rule 1 While playing tug-of-war, most dogs will make a mistake and grab fingers or a hand instead of the toy. Because we are playing a game and feel that the mouth or bite was accidental, people tend to ignore it. This is a BIG mistake! If you allow rough housing or tug-of-war, you MUST never allow the dog to mouth or bite for any reason. The very instant the dog's tooth or teeth touch you or your clothing, you must immediately reprimand the dog and STOP playing. Dogs are very capable of controlling their teeth. Rule 2 The dog should never be allowed to initiate the play session or grab for the toy without invitation. Only when you give a command such as "take it". Especially with puppies, if you allow the dog to grab things without invitation, then you can find yourself playing while trying to get dressed, put on socks etc. You start the game, you end the game. Rule 3 It is always a good idea to stop the game every 30 seconds or so. When you stop the game, give your dog the command to "give or drop it". Make your dog sit or down. Praise and release. If you want to continue to play, give the dog the command to "take it" and continue. If the dog does not respond to the commands to give, you must immediately take the toy away and stop playing. This would clearly tell you that your dog either does not understand the command, or you are absolutely NOT in control. If you are not in control, you should never play this game with your dog. What may be a "soft" bite to you very well may not be to a child or an elderly person. When bites occur in play, in greeting or as an accident, we tend to ignore or excuse it dogs are very capable of controlling their teeth. What happens is the dog learns that they can act recklessly around us. We have taught them that there is no need to exercise caution around us or be respectful. They learn that biting is acceptable. Dogs do not do this to each other. They don't rationalize or make excuses. Biting and disrespect are swiftly and effectively reprimanded and it very rarely, if ever, happens again. Puppies are going to mouth you.We want them to learn an appropriate ABI or in other words how much force can they bite down that is deemed acceptable ie doesn't hurt. We need to first work with this component and then work on reducing the frequency. But bite force first. As you're playing with your puppy just keep screeching "OUCH" when it's too hard and at the moment they cease or bite softly praise them big time. This will go back and forth and forth and back like a ping pong match well at least played by two competent players! This will not be a one session deal. This will take weeks and weeks of being very consistent in your "OUCH" every time they either bite you or your clothes too hard. We do want to promote gentle bite behavior as this reinforces the bonding and teaches them an appropriate ABI which is imperative for producing a stable adult dog. DO NOT take the mouthing behavior away but lets just shape it so that the puppy knows when it's too hard. If your puppy is clearly highly energized and not responding then the play session is over and you walk away. That's it. Never ever hit or smack your dog to correct or thump them on the head as this will only produce head shy dogs. Remember…It is natural for dogs to bite, it must be understood that biting human flesh is the problem and will never be tolerated when it's too hard. The good news is that puppy mouthing behavior aka puppy biting almost always goes away between months even if you let it go. We just prefer the process of teaching boundaries early on while still allowing for some gentle mouthing behaviors. Just remember this will take a LONG time and will make up a big part of your early puppy training. Remember, dogs repeat behaviors that are in some way, shape or form rewarding to them. If you can remove the reward negative punishment , the behavior usually will decrease and then disappear. You need to figure out what the "reward" is and then remove it. Obviously, some behavior will not be able to be extinguished. For example, if the dog enjoys rolling in feces or mud, chewing, barking or anything that in and of itself is rewarding and you cannot "remove" it, it will continue. Yes there are some more invasive ways to extinguish these behaviors thru negative punishment e-collars, putting dog feces in holes being dug in the backyard and filling it, etc. Extinction can work great for nuisance behaviors such as barking, whining for attention, jumping, begging, controlling play, etc. If you attempt to use extinction, be prepared for the behavior to escalate before it starts to decrease. For example: If your dog is used to jumping on you and receiving attention and you decide to ignore it, the dog will become confused - "Hey.Very often, they will try harder to get the desired attention. If you stick to your guns and refuse to acknowledge the dog, the behavior will usually decrease and eventually stop. If you pay attention or reward it even one time or even slightly, it will be all the more difficult to extinguish in the future. The only thing you will accomplish is to have the dog work harder to get what they want. The type of reaction depends on the individual personality of the puppy, his overall resilience, and your reaction. We do fear recovery response training during the first 8 weeks to make sure they have a fast recovery to new novel noises and objects and situations. The how and when of fear periods also depends on the individual puppy, so you may or may not see it in your puppy as described. Generally speaking, puppies go through two potential fear periods during puppyhood. The first fear phase comes when the puppy is just months of age. This also coincides with a very critical socialization period. Your puppy is coming into a new home, leaving behind his mother, and litter mates, and is being introduced to a new family. What you have to do is just keep everything FUN! Puppies look to you as a security buffer and want to see how you react in a situation. Carry super yummy treats with you everywhere you go. Ask people to give your puppy a treat. Give treats with lots of praise in situations where you see your puppy is a little unsure. Carry a favorite toy with you and play squeaky toys or tug of war. This helps a puppy feel more comfortable. It is important to be upbeat and excited about new things and encourage your puppy to feel the same way. The second fear phase comes later in puppyhood. These puppies normally become worried about novel things, or you may see your puppy express fear over something that never bothered them before. The key to this phase is to not force your puppy into situations, and just like before, remember to keep it fun. Instead, give a few treats, talk to him, and then YOU walk up to statue and touch it. YouTube is littered with videos of dogs being forced to interact or even being chased! This type of interaction can be seriously distressing for your puppy. Remember to keep it fun and positive, and he will move through the phase without any problems. A More Thorough Response.There are windows of time when certain types of behaviors e. We have done our part, but this training must continue long after they go to their new homes. Fear-based periods can include fearful responses to noises, dogs barking, music, really anything that could be interpreted as a threat. Although dogs have been domesticated for a long time, they still carry DNA from their wolf lineage and that includes protective puppy behaviors such as quickly scampering to cover when a threat is perceived. Between months these types of responses can be manifested by cowering behavior but can also include barking, growling, ears back and tail down, and in some cases just a bit of unsureness about the stimulus causing this reaction. Keep in mind that these behaviors manifest from a genetic basis that likely came with wild populations of dog ancestors e. Well, there are several key socialization periods as well and the first one occurs during the first 8 weeks, and this is when puppies begin to bond and trust their human family. Without a thorough socialization program, you will be battling that on top of puppy-fear based responses at a whole new level. Trust me fear-based training does make a difference when started in the first 8 weeks and research corroborates this and that early puppy training the first 8 weeks helps to temper these responses, but every puppy is different, and every home and environmental conditions are different as well. Just keep all of this in mind during the training period that these genetically programmed responses helped the puppies survive before becoming household pets that we have today. Unfortunately, they carry the genetic baggage from their past ancestors, and we just need to work around this. Understanding this is the first step toward puppy training… Ok so what to do!? Is there hope? Absolutely and the above information just sets the stage for how to train the puppies and help them thru these two fear-based periods. This can be extremely overwhelming and can manifest itself in many ways wanting to be with you all the time, depressed immune responses, etc. The main thing is to use the first fear-based period between weeks to absolutely bond to your new puppy and make sure they feel secure, protected, and not frightened. Many families have young kids and although they were raised with kids of all ages this first 8—week fear-based period can kick in and when chased by a young child, grabbed, pulled, or petted and handled can induce a fear-based response that may be hard to detect at first but can slowly creep in. Make sure that whoever is interacting with the puppy is doing so in a very friendly and non-threatening way. But remember kids can induce a fear-based response as can other dogs during this initial fear-based period. Allow the puppy to initiate contact with new people. Early traumatic experiences to a hostile child or dog can have a lifelong impact on the puppy and in many cases, this can cause permanent behavioral changes and why we do not advocate for dog parks or other situations where lots of dogs are together without proper supervision. You can also use a Bluetooth speaker and occasionally play novel noises during the day search in YouTube for Puppy Culture noises. During these very positive training episodes you can again play novel noises but very brief and have lots of treats ready to redirect their behavior. Such as they are fearful of going into the back seat. Your job is to create a positive experience by getting into the back seat. Maybe get some raw meat and put into a Ziplock bag and let your dog smell it. Then if they put one foot up onto the back seat treat them. Then two feet only gets a treat etc. Keep it fun. But you must be abundantly patient during this time. Dogs that routinely go thru basic obedience training school during this time seem to fly thru it with flying colors, but patience and praise is the key. The bottom line is that training and socialization is going to happen the rest of their lives. Certainly, it gets easier! Your investment now will have a lifelong impact on the well-being of your fur baby. This will help temper the Berner side of aloofness. If he takes after the Poodle side, the dog needs outlets for his boundless intelligence and energy. Manners training, retrieving and enrichment activities like puzzle toys can help satisfy his needs and prevent boredom. Dog breeders typically try to cross dogs that have the most appealing characteristics of each breed. Each Bernedoodle is unique and may take on more of the appearance or temperament of one parent breed than the other. Most Bernedoodles have a wavy coat with minimal shedding. Some have a curly coat similar to their Poodle ancestors. They can be pure black, black and white, black and brown or tri-colored black, brown and white. There are three sizes of Bernedoodles The standard Bernedoodle is a cross between a standard Poodle and a Berner. He ranges between 50 to 90 pounds and 23 to 29 inches at the shoulder. The mini Bernedoodle is a cross between the mini Poodle and the Berner. He ranges between 25 to 49 pounds and 18 to 22 inches at the shoulder. The tiny Bernedoodle is a cross between a toy Poodle and a mini Bernedoodle and is between 10 to 24 pounds and 12 to 17 inches at the shoulder. The mini and tiny Bernedoodles may have slightly higher energy levels than the standards do. Bernedoodles can make great family members for people who want an intelligent, easygoing companion. But be aware that your puppy may take after his high-driven, friendly Poodle ancestors or his aloof, headstrong Berner side in appearance and temperament. Start early and use plenty of positive reinforcements. They will be more happy and confident if they understand that you are in charge. Mini Bernedoodle pups are intelligent, and they will quickly learn what is expected of them. Here are a at home training tips for Mini Bernedoodles — there are also many good resources online. This will be home to your MiniBernedoodle pup when they sleep or when you are away. Make sure the crate is big enough that your pup can comfortably lie down, sit, and stand up. Place some comfortable rags or mattresses for them to sleep on and lure them inside with their favorite toys. Every time they pop into the crate willingly, give them a treat or play with them to show your appreciation. Many pups come to see their crate as a safe place to go when they want to rest or need a break. Potty Training One of the most challenging parts of the training is teaching your MiniBernedoodle pup to do their job at the right place. You will need to be patient and use many positive reinforcements while showing them the right place to do their business. Take the puppy out first thing in the morning and after every time that they eat, drink, or play. Make sure you reward them when they poo or pee at the proper place. Socializing You need to start socializing your mini doodle puppy as soon as possible. Although these puppies are quite even-tempered, they can also be anxious around strangers. To avoid unpleasantness later on, when guests come around, start training your pup to socialize when they are still babies. You have to train your pup to socialize with not just humans but with other dogs as well. Many people tend to think that dogs get along with dogs. Frequent walks and visits to doggy daycare and dog parks are great training tools. The more they see and interact with other pups and people the better their social skills will be. A well-behaved, friendly dog is a pleasure to be around since they are safe and loved by all. Barking Training Another problem you might face with your Bernedoodle pup is barking — this is their way of expressing themselved. The will most often do this for food, when they need to go outside, to alert you of strangers, or to get your attention. Try to understand the reason behind their barking so you can find a solution. For instance, if your pup mostly barks for food, have their feed ready at their place at fixed times every day. They will quickly learn that there is a time and will wait more patiently. Again, reward them the first few times they wait patiently for the food without barking. It will help them to understand what they are expected to do. Outdoor Walks - Leash Training Start out by introducing your puppy to their harness or leash. Let her wear in around the house for short periods of time while you are playing. Teach you puppy to come to you for treats around the house when you ask them to. Progress to holding the leash and asking them to follow you for the upcoming treats. Practice inside first, then outside as they become more comfortable. Here is a great leash training article from the American Kennel Club. Discourage Nipping Puppies playing with other pups will nip out of sheer playfulness. Your Mini Bernedoodle puppy might do the same when playing with you. But you have to train them that nipping is not allowed. The point to note here is that nipping is not the same as mouthing, a typical dog trait for showing affection. The difference lies in the force. So, you have to teach your Mini Bernedoodle pup the difference between mouthing and nipping. Eventually, your pup will understand the difference between nipping and mouthing. They will learn that nipping will not get them anywhere and learn to control the amount of force they use when play-biting. Verbal Cues Every dog understands a few human words. You, too, can train your Bernedoodle pup to follow verbal cues of things that you want them to do. For instance, when potty training your pup, you may use the word potty. Just make sure you use the same word every time. When your puppy poos after you say the word reward them, to show that this is what you are asking of them. You can use similar simple words for eating, going out, playtime, treats, and so on. If you are consistent they will learn to associate the word and will follow your verbal cues. Final Words Mini Bernedoodle puppies are a pleasure to be around. They are wonderfully friendly, active, and playful family-friendly dogs. Early and proper training will head off many difficulties. You will have a fantastic companion for life whose love is irreplaceable and completely unselfish. Pleasant Creek Mini Mini Bernedoodles puppies are socialized and positive behaviors are encouraged from the start! Laura: .This type of dog can come in various colors, patterns, and sizes, each more unique than litters before. Although they are intelligent dogs, the Bernedoodle is not without its challenges regarding training and obedience. As a result, some pet owners will find specific struggles with their new Bernedoodle puppy once they bring it home. For example, Poodles are a high-energy breed devoted to their owners, while Bernese Mountain dogs have a calming nature but prefer to keep busy by working on a task, like protecting their yard and home. Anytime two dog breeds cross, there can be challenges. Some challenges of training Bernedoodles can be: Stubbornness Exhibit sensitivity Stubbornness Poodles and Bernese Mountain dogs are highly intelligent animals, making the Bernedoodle a smart hybrid breed. However, even intelligent dogs can be stubborn when going through training. These dogs may push the boundaries to see what they can get away with before receiving a correction from their owners. Unfortunately, this stubborn streak can also appear often if you are inconsistent with their training or if multiple household members use different training techniques. Easily Distracted High-energy dogs can appear easily distracted, especially during training. Bernedoodle puppies have exceptionally short attention spans, making it more challenging to train for long periods. Exhibit Sensitivity Poodles and Bernese Mountain dogs are incredibly social animals and love to please their owners. Although this characteristic can be an advantage for training methods, if you are prone to scolding or using punishment, your pet may exhibit sensitivity and retreat from you, hindering your training efforts. Using proper methods and techniques when teaching your dog how to behave is critical, especially for sensitive Bernedoodles that may cower if you raise your voice or make threatening movements. How To Train a Bernedoodle the Right Way The most important thing to remember when training a Bernedoodle is that each dog is unique and can take anywhere from four to six months to adapt to your obedience commands. Of course, some ways will help make your methods easier for them to understand and follow. Some tips for Bernedoodle training include: Start training as soon as you bring home your new pet Be consistent with commands Enlist in short spurts of training, multiple times a day Ensure your pet receives enough physical and mental stimulation By recognizing some simple tricks, pet owners may have an easier time getting their dogs to follow commands and learn desirable behaviors. How To House Train a Bernedoodle Many dog owners will want to begin house training as soon as they bring home their new Bernedoodle puppy. No one wants to clean up messes that a dog leaves in the house, so having your new pet house trained is vital for sanitary living conditions. Puppies typically eliminate urine approximately every 15 to 20 minutes because of their small, immature bladders. On average, a Bernedoodle puppy will have a bowel movement 20 to 30 minutes after eating a meal and after exercising. One of the best ways to have a headstart on practical house training is to minimize the instances your pup will pee or poop inside. The best way to house train your Bernedoodle puppy is by following these steps: As soon as you wake up, take your dog outside for a chance to go to the bathroom. Provide your pet with water and food for the morning, then set a timer for 10 to 15 minutes for the next outside potty break. Follow a strict 15 to minute schedule for potty breaks throughout the day. In addition, watch for potential cues your pup needs to go, including excessive sniffing or circling in the house. This way, your Bernedoodle has a better chance of going outside than indoors. You should remove any water source from your new puppy in the early evening. This schedule will give them enough time to eliminate their bladders before bedtime and reduce nighttime accidents in the house. Each time your pet successfully goes to the bathroom outside, reward them with treats and praise to provide positive reinforcement for good behavior. If your new puppy has an accident indoors, refrain from punishing them. Tell your dog a stern, No, then pick them up and take them outside. Do not make a big production of any accidents indoors as this gives the dog attention, and they may interpret it as a way to get recognition from you. Avoid eye contact during this time, and clean up their mess quickly. How To Leash Train a Bernedoodle The next phase of training a Bernedoodle will be ensuring that you can take them out for a walk on a leash. Because Bernedoodles are moderately active breeds, they require one to three daily walks ranging from 30 to 60 minutes or more. Nothing is more frustrating than a dog that pulls constantly or gets tangled up in their lead with you or other dogs. Showing your new Bernedoodle puppy how to walk on a leash will give them the structure they need each time they leave the house for daily walks. In addition, proper leash training will come in handy when meeting new people and unfamiliar dogs. Leash training should regularly occur in your home with your new Bernedoodle as they mature and settle into their new family. The best way to leash train your pet will incorporate these steps: Always make leash training a positive activity, so your pet associates its walks with a pleasant experience rather than punishment. Remember to bring high-value treats to reward your dog as you go through the training process with them. Some dog owners find it easier to leash train their Bernedoodle using a harness rather than a collar. You can try both methods to see which works best for you and your pet. However, using a harness can minimize pulling or accidental harm from sharp jerks on a collar if your pet suddenly tries to run or pulls too hard. Keep the leash in both hands with one hand at your hip, providing only enough leash to reach your dog comfortably. Do not allow excessive leash distance where they can roam far from you or tangle up during the walk. Ensure your dog always stays by your side while consistently providing positive feedback and treats to them as they walk beside you. Give your dog lots of eye contact and verbal praise during good leash walking behavior. If your Bernedoodle puppy tries to pull aggressively or tries to wander away, immediately stop walking. By restricting the ability to stray from your side, your pup will soon learn that the walking stops if they are not beside you and paying attention to your cues. Some dog owners find that the short attention span of Bernedoodle puppies can work in their favor during leash training. For example, if your new pet suddenly wants to run off during a walk because it spotted a cat, you can use redirection instead. Rather than stopping and waiting for your dog to look for obedience cues, try switching directions and removing your pet from the area of distraction. This change of scenery may be all your dog needs to reengage into their positive walking behavior. How To Eliminate Nipping or Biting One common occurrence with Bernedoodle puppies is their constant need to mouth, nip, or bite people, other animals, and objects in their surroundings. Puppies are baby dogs that use their nose and mouth to explore the world around them, making nipping or biting an instinctual behavior. Suppose your Bernedoodle puppy does not receive the proper training that discourages nipping or biting early. In that case, it may grow to continue this negative action into adulthood and unknowingly cause harm to people or other animals. Training a Bernedoodle to stop nipping or biting is simple once you recognize some tips to use, including: As soon as your pet mouths your hand, fingers, leg, etc. If you catch your puppy chewing on off-limits items, like shoes or furniture, immediately intervene with a swift no command, remove them from the area and provide an appropriate chew toy to resume their chewing behavior. Offer your Bernedoodle toys that allow treats inside to promote chewing and grab their interest more than your hands or personal items. This way, your dog will want to chew on toys that provide them with treats and reinforce good behaviors. Suppose redirection does not work with your puppy. In that case, some dog owners find that avoiding eye contact and immediately leaving their pet is an effective way to get the message across after biting. If you leave the room every time your dog nips at your fingers, they will soon realize that this behavior sends you away, which does not give them the attention they seek. Remember to never bite or strike your Bernedoodle puppy as punishment for nipping or biting you. Your pet might be trying to get your attention, may smell food on your fingers, or is not aware that this is negative behavior. By following these tips, remembering to use positive reinforcement, and being consistent, your new dog will quickly learn their boundaries and what behaviors are acceptable in your home. You will also like:.