chocolate labrador puppies texas

Like many small dog breeds, Pugs reach their full size faster than medium to large-sized dogs. Pugs reach their adult size around nine months of age but may continue to put on a small amount of muscle until they are a year old. Image Source: Pexels How big should a 6-month-old Pug be? A six-month-old Pug will weigh between 7 and 12 pounds on average and will be close to their full adult height, which is typically around 10 to 13 inches tall. Pugs are highly prone to putting on excess weight and their food intake needs to be monitored closely. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide with 39 dog care tips on health, puppy-proofing practices, training, winter and summer safety, and more! How much bigger will my Pug get? Pugs reach their full size around nine months of age but may continue filling out until they are a year old. If your Pug is younger than nine months old, they are definitely still growing! If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, they are likely still growing. This is a classic puppy feature that indicates that more growth is needed. A puppy will rarely grow to be larger than their bigger parent, so this will also give you an idea of their maximum size. What is the size of a full-grown Pug? According to the American Kennel Club Official Pug Standards , you can expect a full-grown Pug to weigh between 14 and 18 pounds and stand 10 to 13 inches tall. A full-grown Pug will appear compact and solid, rather than lean and leggy. If your Pug continues to put on weight past 18 pounds, reach out to your veterinarian to assess whether your Pug is putting on excessive weight. If your Pug weighs more than 18 pounds, consult with your veterinary professional to ensure that they are at their healthiest weight. Pugs are especially prone to heatstroke due to their compromised breathing. Maintaining a healthy weight is crucial to lessening the side effects of brachycephalic syndrome. In severe cases, surgery may be necessary to correct narrow nostrils or elongated soft palettes. Many veterinary treatments and procedures cost thousands of dollars. When surveyed, Only .This is a crucial factor in why pet insurance is so valuable to pet parents. Pet insurance reimburses you a percentage of your out of pocket expenditure for veterinary bills. Not only can pet insurance provide you peace of mind should surgery or treatments be needed, but available wellness plans can significantly reduce the cost of routine veterinary exams or maintenance, like dog teeth cleaning or x-rays. Your veterinarian is your greatest resource in keeping your pup happy and healthy. Continue making healthy lifestyle choices, like daily exercise and a nutritious diet, for your Pug to keep them active and living their best life! Unfortunately, Pugs are prone to a larger number of health issues due to their brachycephalic syndrome and other genetic predispositions. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Pugs are lap dogs originally bred for companionship. They require a lot of attention and, therefore, love to cuddle and are happy following you everywhere or sitting on your lap when you are home. Since they love being around you, Pugs will suffer when left home alone. This is one reason they will tend to whine and cry a lot. But your Pug crying could also communicate anxiety, frustration, or pain. Their need for attention also makes them prone to boredom and separation anxiety when left alone. Pugs are tiny and easy to bring around. Besides, they will follow you faithfully. Consider A Substitute Companion If you have to go to work daily and your Pug will be home alone, consider hiring someone to be with your dog when you are away. Ensure that a connection has been created between your Pug and the substitute before proceeding to leave your puppy with them. You can also consider using technology that allows you to monitor, give treats, and stay connected with your Pug when you are away. The Furbo Dog Camera is a perfect option for the job. Other Ways Avoid ritualizing departures and re-entries and make separation part of socialization training when your Pug is still a puppy. The Pug is also known to be stubborn, and this could make training more difficult and require plenty of patience. Consider training your dog in the morning hours when his energy is still high and focus is obtained more easily. As friendly companions, Pugs can be overly sensitive to punitive treatment. So, never shout at your Pug during training as this will make them frightened of you and no learning will be achieved. Giving in to their whim will only make them more difficult to train and heed commands. Involve persons who interact with your Pug in the training process so your dog learns to also take commands from them. This could be family members or a substitute caregiver. Besides, they are heavy shedders and require consistent grooming. Focus on these aspects when grooming your Pug. Monthly Baths A bath a month is a good schedule for your Pugs heavy coat. Baths will control shedding and get rid of loose fur. This may be caused by sweat or dirt in their skin folds or yeast between their paws , so a bath is a good care routine. Since your Pug has sensitive skin, use a mild shampoo with a pH of 6. This should also check body odor. Also, clean their eyes off the salty fluids and their face folds daily with safe medicated grooming wipes. Your Pug is an adult by the age of 1 but may still show puppy tendencies at this age. Its growth can still occur between 1. This may also be accentuated by their need to keep warm, which they are not always able to achieve naturally by themselves. Whether letting your Pug sleep with you is right or not is all up to your decision. Down syndrome is a congenital defect caused by partial or complete duplication of chromosome 21 in humans. Dogs have different chromosomal makeup. Your dog may have a canine-chromosomal defect with symptoms similar to Down syndrome in humans. Overview When you have a dog from the age of a young pup, this gives you a wonderful opportunity. It offers you a chance to bond with your dog from the very beginning. This also gives you an advantage because you will be able to train and teach your pup what they need to know before they learn any bad behavior from elsewhere. This section will discuss how to care for a Pug puppy, starting at 8 weeks old and up until he or she is an adult, at the age of 1 year. Transition to a New Home Things will run much smoother if you plan ahead and have most, if not all, of your puppy care items already in your home. Here are the most important items to have: A crate — One with an adjustable size is best to fit the needs of a growing Pug puppy. Crating is a good night time method to use until a pup is housebroken. Gates or a playpen — Choosing an area to gate off or using a canine playpen are good options for when you must leave your Pug puppy home alone or for when you cannot be right at his side. This keeps the pup in a controlled space which helps in regard to bathroom needs and keeping a puppy in one area when he or she has strong chewing urges. Puppy food — This should be obtained before the puppy is brought home. Owners will not always agree with the food that a puppy has been being fed, however any change should be done gradually. Have the food that the Pug has been used to eating on hand, as well as your new choice. Details regarding making this change can be found here: Feeding a Pug. You'll also want them to be sized appropriately and at floor level. Honey — Puppies are prone to the condition of hypoglycemia, which is a rapid and dangerous drop in blood sugar levels. Stress, among other things, can bring this on and while going to a new home is a happy event, it can also be stressful for a little pup that is leaving all that he knew and no longer has the companionship and friendship of his litter-mates. Treatment can be provided at home as plans are being made to bring the puppy to the closest animal hospital or veterinarian. A small dab of honey is rubbed onto the gums and then the puppy should receive professional treatment, sometimes an IV to restore sugar levels back to normal. Leash, collar and harness — Pugs are prone to conditions that involve breathing problems. The body structure of this breed confines breathing passages into a small space and Pugs can have smaller than normal nasal passages and openings stenotic nares. For this reason, using a harness can help a Pug breathe easier when on leash. A short 6 foot leash works best for both potty training and heeling. Read more : Choosing the Best Collar and Harness for a Pug Grooming supplies — The thick coat of a Pug sheds heavily and brushing it well and offering baths on a regular basis can help control shedding. Starting dental care at a young age can help a puppy become used to this grooming element and set up a foundation for a life time of good dental hygiene practices. Keeping the wrinkles, eyes and ears clean are important part of caring for a Pug puppy. Read more: Shedding - Expect your Pug to shed a lot and be prepared by having the right tools. Dental care - Taking care of your Pug's teeth should be high on your priority list. Ears - Expected shapes and proper care. Wrinkles - Keeping the wrinkles dry and clean. Sleeping supplies - Some owners prefer to have their puppy sleep in the bed with them and while this is not always a bad thing, an owner should think about how that will play out as the pup matures into a much larger adult dog. Having a pup get used to his own canine bed from the beginning, set up in a quiet corner of a room, may work out best. Do keep in mind that Pugs crave human companionship and do not like to feel isolated. Setting up the bed in a quiet corner of a well-used room allows a Pug to have a nice area to retreat to for rest and sleep while allowing him to be close to his human family. It will be normal for a little one to sleep anywhere from 16 to 18 hours a day.This included both night time sleep and naps that will be taken throughout the day. Chew Toys — Teething will begin around the age of 3 or 4 months old and can last up until a Pug puppy is 8 months old. Having a good supply of toys on hand for a puppy to chew on is important. Puppy Proofing Before bringing a puppy home and on a regular basis at least weekly owners are encouraged to go over all floors to remove any small objects that could be accidentally swallowed. All items that could be chewed on such as pocket books and shoes should be placed up high until the Pug has matured. Whining It is normal for very young puppies to cry when first brought to a new home, this usually only lasts for a week or so as the pup becomes used to his new family and environment. This can also be a sign of needing to go to the bathroom, so following house training guidelines, be sure to take your Pug puppy outside on a regular basis. Vaccinations for the Pug Puppy An important part of caring for your puppy will be to make sure he or she is up-to-date for all needed vaccinations. An 8-week-old should already have received his shots, as well as a de-worming. Veterinarians will have varying schedules, however this is a general guideline: 5 weeks Parvovirus: For puppies at high risk of exposure to parvo, some veterinarians recommend vaccinating at 5 weeks. Dogs at high risk are those that live in areas where wild life raccoon, skunk, deer, etc. The inclusion of either canine adenovirus-1 or adenovirus-2 in a vaccine will protect against both adenovirus cough and hepatitis; adenovirus-2 is highly preferred. You will want to talk to your veterinarian about this. Reactions to Vaccines Immunizations are intended to stimulate the immune system to then protect a dog against a specific infectious disease. It is very important to have your Pug receive all needed vaccinations. Your Pug may react to immunizations in ways that range from soreness at the site of injection to mild fever to allergic reactions. The allergic reactions can range from mild to severe. Mild- Mild reactions include fever, sluggishness, and loss of appetite. Mild reactions usually resolve without any treatment needed. This is called Urticaria. This happens when there is a reaction of the skin and shows as hives or bumps. It is usually extremely itchy. Urticaria may progress to anaphylaxis, which is considered life-threatening. However, Urticaria is the most common reaction in dogs if a reaction is to happen. Severe - The most severe reaction is anaphylaxis. This is a very fast, sudden, severe allergic response that causes breathing difficulties, collapse and possible death. This is very rare. Urticaria the moderate and most common reaction, if one is to occur happens soon after vaccination, often even before the puppy is brought home. It can happen in the car while you are driving back to your house. Your veterinarian will recommend immediate return to the hospital for treatment. Urticaria is usually treated successfully with injectable corticosteroids like dexamethasone or prednisone. Antihistamines do little to help with acute allergic reactions but may be given by injection to help prevent recurrence of symptoms after steroids wear off. Mild vaccination reactions usually require no treatment. However, if the symptoms persist for more than 24 hours, call your veterinarian. Growth Rate A Pug puppy grows quickly and this can happen gradually or with spurts and stops. Many Pug puppies have a growth spurt near the 3 to 5 month mark. As the pup nears the 1 year mark, growth will slow down. Once a Pug reaches his or her full height, there may still be some growth in the width of the Pug, as the chest widens and fills out. How a Pug ages and his growth is rapid, yet can be staggered during the first year. Getting Your Puppy Comfortable One of the most important parts of bringing a puppy home is allowing him or her to become used to their new surroundings. Allow your pup to roam around and check out his new environment. Be sure to keep a puppy's water in one designed spot so that the pup can know that it can always be found. The drinking and feeding area should be in a quite corner of a room, without much foot traffic or noise, since small puppies can feel vulnerable while eating. The absolute longest that a 2 month old pup can hold their needs is 2 hours. The bladder and bowel muscles are not yet fully developed. As they grow older, this time will increase as they have more control over their body. Usually it will increase by 1 hour for each month that goes by. Therefore, a 3 month old can hold on for about 3 hours, a 4 month old for about 4 hours and so on.With 8 hours being the maximum time for any age. Informational Note: When your 2 month old needs to go outside at least every 2 hours, be sure to not get stuck into that habit.It is important to slowly increase the time intervals. Your 3 month old can wait about 3 hours, but only if you allow the pup to use his bowel and bladder muscles to work and grow stronger. If an owner always brought their Pug outside every 2 hours, the dog would never learn to hold their needs for a longer period of time. Keep reading about the best way to house train a Pug puppy. All puppy vaccinations should be given before you take him or her out to the park, to pet supply stores or any other area in which there may have been or could be other animals. Many new owners already have another dog in the household. As your puppy grows older and is receiving the needed vaccinations, you can slowly begin introducing your new puppy to other dogs and allow normal socialization to begin. The Necessities of Care To have a healthy and happy puppy that will grow into a happy and healthy adult dog, make sure to always provide the essentials: A proper diet. You will need to decide if you want to offer manufacture food, home cooked food or a combination of both. Pugs are very sensitive to their human's emotions. A hug goes a long way! All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. As newborns they are deaf, bind, and largely immobile. They rely on their mom, or their breeder for food, warmth, and care. A Pug is Born! Unfortunately, the birthing process of Pugs is a difficult one. Flat-faced breeds, such as the Pug, are more likely to experience complications when giving birth. The Pug is also more likely to experience Dystocia, which is simply a term that means difficult or abnormal birth. Such situations put both the mother and her pups at risk. More often than not, the mother will require her pups to be delivered by a C-section. This is due to the fact that unborn Pugs have large and broad heads, whilst their mom has a very narrow pelvis. This awkward combination makes natural birth difficult. If the birth is successful, Pugs commonly have litters containing puppies, with 4 pups being the average. If your baby Pug is born naturally, their mother will next turn to chewing off the umbilical cord and cleaning them up. This is an important part of the bonding experience for mother dogs. The newborn Pugs will often nurse from their mother. When they are not nursing, they will spend the majority of their time sleeping. Newborn Pugs Pug pups begin their life fully reliant on their mother. They are born blind, deaf, and without teeth. A coat should be present, with the color being commonly either fawn or black. Fawn pups may experience their coat color lightening or darkening in shade as they mature. Their eyes and ears will be closed at birth and will remain this way for a while yet. Unable to support their own body weight, they will crawl on their stomach to get around. Baby Pugs are also not able to regulate their temperature, meaning that it is very important to stay warm. They will commonly clump together in piles, sharing body heat. Finally, the mother will also have to help her pups urinate and defecate as they are unable to do so by themselves. She does this by licking the anal and genital areas. One Week Old Baby Pug During the first week of life, baby Pug pups will either be nursing off their mother or sleeping. As they are still blind and deaf at this stage, they will not bother exploring or moving around more than necessary, spending most of their time lying close to their littermates and mother. Their weight should steadily increase every day. At the end of their first week of life, they should have doubled their birth weight, or at least come close. The owners of the pups will need to keep an eye on their breathing as brachycephalic breeds, such as the Pug, commonly have breathing issues. Two Week Old Baby Pug As we hit two weeks of age, we see a key development in the puppies growth; their eyes will open for the very first time! To begin with, their eye color will be blue, but will likely transition into a dark brown as they mature. Owners need to check over their eyes to ensure there are no issues, as this breed can be susceptible to ocular problems. At this stage, they may be a little more curious about their surroundings due to their newfound eyesight. However, they will still primarily be focused on sleeping and nursing. Their weight should continue to rise steadily over the coming weeks. By this time, the ears of the baby Pug pups will have opened. They will be able to hear for the first time and will begin reacting to more sounds. Their eyesight will also have developed significantly, with them being able to recognize their mother, littermates, and objects placed in their den. Along with their newfound perception of the world, they should now be able to support their own body weight and stand up. They may be able to walk, albeit with an unsteady gait. With all the interesting sights and sounds around them, they will likely be a lot more inquisitive of their surroundings. They may explore the den as much as their wobbly legs will carry them. The Pug puppies will also start teething, with their baby teeth coming through for the first time. This may start a passing interest in solid food. Gaining Independence On top of all this, they should now be able to urinate and defecate on their own, without any stimulation from their mother. We can also expect to see the start of the early socialization period. The puppies will begin developing behaviors and social skills for the first time, taking part in play with their littermates. Owners of the puppies should take advantage of this period to help them get used to human touch and presence. They will be establishing relationships with their mother, den mates, and people. Training can begin at this early stage. Despite the fact that their brains still have a lot of developing to do, a start can still be made on teaching them basic crate and potty training. They will also likely be much more mobile on their feet. Little adventures will be common and the puppies will play together often. Soft, easy to eat puppy food can be given. They will continue to rise in weight and keep learning social skills, with more complex behaviors being shown. While they seem a lot more independent at this stage, they will still require plenty of time with their mother and den mates before they are ready to be moved to a new home. Six Week Old Baby Pug At six weeks old, the Pug puppies are fast approaching the age where they reach full independence. By now, they should be fully weaned off their mother and placed onto solid food only. This is a big step. There is still much to learn. Up until now, the Pug puppies have been very curious and interested in completely new things. But they have always been safe under the watchful eye of their mom, too. Now, as they finally gain independence, the puppies learn to be cautious and careful; traits that keep them alive in the wild. Eight Week Old Baby Pug At eight weeks old, the Pug pups are developed enough to be able to leave their mother and littermates behind. They can be sold and moved into a new loving home. They should weigh around pounds. Training and Raising a Pug Resources Keep in mind that they still have a lot of developing to do; both physically and mentally! Remember, they are still within their fear period! Things learned here will make a big impact. But the sad part of the story is that just like any other dog, pugs get obese very quickly. As they say, you become what you eat. Since the pug is a tiny dog, even one extra pound will affect its appearance. For this reason, it becomes important to keep a check on what your pug is eating. The present article talks about the feeding guidelines of this adorable dog: How much is too much? It is very important to feed your dog the correct amount of food to ensure that the pug is getting enough calories for proper growth. Any deviation from the right amount will led to health problems in a pug. Age, activity, metabolism and build of a dog are the major factors on which the amount of food which should be given to a dog depends. Also, the type of food you are giving to a dog is another important factor. If you are feeding home cooked food to one pug and commercial dog food to another dog with same age, build and activity level, it is not necessary that both of them will consume the same amount. As a general rule of thumb, a puppy pug should be given 1 ounce of food per one pound of body weight. For adult pugs, the amount is halved. What about calories? A pug puppy which is in his growth phase requires more calories than adult and senior pugs. On an average, a puppy requires 50 calories per pound of their body weight while an adult pug requires 40 calories per pound of their body weight. Senior pugs need fewer calories because of slow metabolism and less activity level. Free feeding is not recommended to the pug. The following table illustrates the right feeding regime and meal frequency for pugs: Age Amount of food given at one time No.

She has been shown as a puppy in a national show and was placed in 4th place out of 25 dogs. She has a beautiful female head with dark eyes and nice thick structure. Her movement is exceptional in the ring. Dannon is fully trained to sit, stay, down, heal on and off lead. She is also house broken. You will have a session with his trainer to learn her commands and the trainer will be available for any help or assistance in the transition from our home to yours. Dannon is very well socialized and is excellent with dogs, cats and children. She has been given all her shots, microchipped, AKC registered, 4 generation pedigree and comes with a two year written guarantee. He is a large beautiful deep black and red male with a very large massive head. His hips and elbows are both excellent. Very good expression, very good pigmentation, good character, strong head, dark eye. High, long withers, straight, firm back, good length and situation of the croup. Front well, the back very well bent, balanced chest proportions, straight front. Front straight-, rear slightly hackeneng kicking it indicates very powerful, expansive courses at excellent majesty. Safe nature, TSB pronounced. Type full overall appearance. Perform Medium bitches. She is a medium build female beautiful black and red, nice croup, beautiful fast moving pace. Good agulation of the rear, excellent temperament, very well socialized, great attitude and excellent bitework. In Germany she was placed 2nd in a regional show with high compliments from the judge of movement and structure. She produces ultimate gorgeous puppies. V Fibi puppies out of VA Karlo and V Canon have produced extremely nice puppies who have placed in the top 5 in both litters. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article.

They have goofy personalities, they crave all the love and attention we like to give, and their pint-sized nature make them the perfect on the go companions. Notorious for taking naps just about anywhere, these lil' comedians will keep you smiling day after day. And it doesn't take much to keep these easygoing pups entertained, too! Just give them a good plush toy —and of course some of their favorite treats—and they're one happy camper. While Frenchies are incredibly popular and lovable companions—owning one of these breeds usually means plenty of visits to the veterinarian. If you're considering adding a French bulldog to your family be warned they are a brachycephalic breed, which means they can have trouble breathing and are susceptible to gagging and regurgitation, exercise intolerance, and obesity. If you're having a bad day or just need a reason to smile, here are 18 pictures of French bulldogs snuggling, smiling, and sporting their best costumes. I need some fashion tips from this doll ASAP. Stop and Smell the Flowers I can't tell which view is more beautiful … harleyishandsome or the garden. Just kidding, Harley is one of the most beautiful Frenchies we've ever seen! If your dog loves sniffing flowers too, brush up on dog-safe plants, shrubs, and trees. Beep Beep! Get in loser, we're going shopping for treats! The Perfect Cuddle Buddies Something about dogs and cats cuddling just makes me tear up every. A little bit of water, some sun, lots of treats, and a bunch of hugs and kisses! This photo is transporting me to Disney World , and I'm totally here for it. Triceratops Frenchie Sorry for the mix-up. This is supposed to be an article about cute French bulldogs. This is clearly a Triceratops. Don't know how this photo snuck in here. Fin-tastic Run for your lives! Joy the shark will smother you with cuteness and kisses! If you love dogs dressed as sharks, you should check out these hilarious aquarium pups. Here are the best treats for training your dog , according to a professional dog trainer. Passion for Fashion Can someone get me the number for these dogs' stylist?! I need to look as fly as they do when I go out for happy hour. Party Animal loganouioui is clearly the life of the party. I mean, that face just screams "Let's dance all night long! Congrats on your epic stick score bulldogbuddha! But Allorathefrenchie is so darn cute in her little bow that we'll let her wear pink all day every day. Sweet Potato Dogs are actually a lot like sweet potatoes if you think about it. Both are squishy, the perfect size, and sweet in the best way! Not saying I'm totally jealous of a dog … but I'm jealous of a dog. You deserve all the bones and sun Dilla! There's so many adventures to be had buddy! Catching Some Rays Do not disturb, too busy tanning and being too adorable for words. Don't forget the doggy sunscreen mr. Was this page helpful? And those alert ears! Frenchies are making a big comeback popularity-wise , climbing up the list of the most popular dog breeds in the United States in recent years. If you bring one of these puppies home, you might learn to understand their adorable language before they start to learn your human words. This may not be apparent, as French Bulldogs take to training slowly, but they do love you. They may have breathing issues As adorable as those smooshed faces are, the French Bulldog is a brachycephalic breed , meaning they have shorter snouts than other dogs. This can lead to breathing issues, especially when it comes to swimming or flying in an airplane. If you want to take your Frenchie for a swim , be sure to have them geared up with some puppy floaties, and stay close to them, as they literally cannot keep their snout — or the rest of their body — above water. Some airlines will not let brachycephalic breeds fly. Being in a small, hot area under a lot of stress can make breathing very difficult for these dogs and can even be fatal. As fancy as French Bulldogs are, the jet-set lifestyle was not made for them. Frenchies have something of a reputation for not only breathing issues but also for being gassy. Prepare to grab some non-toxic air fresheners and open up some windows! They can be champion couch potatoes and incredibly playful French Bulldog puppies can grow very accustomed to living in the lap of luxury. French Bulldogs can be incredibly silly and playful.

Are you interested in a French Bulldog puppy? Talk to us because we would be happy to advise you on the placement of a puppy or the purchase of your French Bulldog puppy. We can be reached by phone for an appointment, but a visit to the puppy room is an even more interesting experience. Just visit us in the puppy room without obligation, here you can personally get to know your French Bulldog puppy and, above all, try out cuddles. Not sure if you are ready for a puppy? We offer you a lot of information before visiting our Competence Center at. Read the different topics so that you can acquire the knowledge you need before you buy. We are happy to answer your questions by phone. We know from experience how quickly you can fall in love with a puppy. We are there for you, happy to advise you on the character and breed-typical characteristics of the puppy. We would like to give them your puppies but also to exclude rash impulse purchases. Why do we do that? You can find that in our Principles. Our online shop will soon make a purchase possible, but a visit to the puppy parlor is also necessary here. We like the puppies as much as they do, so of course we don't send dogs! Character French bulldogs are playful, intelligent, friendly and cuddly. They feel very comfortable in the company of people, especially those of their owners. He is a brave dog with a slope that is bigger than he actually is. He will not give up in a fight with another dog if he is tackled. The body is very muscular and they have a short tail. The French Bulldog gets along well with other pets. Breed data. Download our guide! We offer standard and fluffy Award- winning Award-winning bloodline, guaranteed health Every TomKings parent dog has passed a rigorous selection and examination process before we started our elite breeding program to build the healthiest and most Frenchie-authentic gene pool for our TomKings Frenchies. All of our adult dogs and puppies get the highest quality food and supplements to ensure immaculate health, and they are checked by our vet on a weekly basis. Our purebred French bulldogs come with a TomKings Health Guarantee, that is valid against all genetic illnesses. Instead, we treat all of our Frenchies as family members , let them roam freely in our vast green garden and rest with us in our house. Our Frenchie puppies can play as much as they want and we raise them by teaching all the good manners among dogs and people, including children. Maternal love 12 weeks of maternal love and professional care Spending 3 whole months after birth with their caring mother and siblings ensures that TomKings puppies develop a healthy dog-personality and a well-balanced nature. Before joining their new families in the USA and elsewhere, our Frenchies get all the puppy vaccinations, are dewormed and treated against parasites. They travel in a temperature-controlled and pressurized room not stacked on top of suitcases , and they are watched all along the flight. During layovers, the puppies are taken off the plane and placed in a pet hotel, where they are given fresh food, water and lots of pampering. They are sweeter than any airport scenes in romantic movies. Feel free to reach out to us any time with your questions or to share your joy: we answer you immediately 16 hours a day. You can pay by bank card, money transfer, or cryptocurrency. Reprinting of information and photos of the site is prohibited! Manage Cookie Consent We use cookies. Not consenting, may adversely affect certain features and functions. Functional Functional Always active The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Preferences Preferences The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. Statistics Statistics The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Marketing Marketing The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.

Breed Title Goldador Puppies Temperament Goldadors are an amazing combination of the intelligence and trainability of the Labrador and the friendly, gentle personality of the Golden Retriever. With their outgoing, friendly character and sweet disposition, Goldadors make excellent family pets around children and other animals as they have a great aptitude for understanding people. In terms of temperament, these beloved pups are highly sociable but not overly boisterous or hyper; they enjoy playing fetch but rest just as happily on your lap or at your feet while you work. Golden Labrador Retriever Puppy Health Considerations Though generally very happy and long-lived — with an average lifespan of around years — our Goldadors for sale are not without their unique health concerns. Like every breed of dog, there are a few conditions you should be aware of before you consider purchasing one of our Golden Labrador Retriever puppies for sale. Understanding the risks allows you to know the signs and prevent small health concerns from turning into big ones. Finding a Golden Labrador puppy for sale from a reputable breeder can also dramatically — although, not eliminate — the risk of your dog developing some of these conditions. Depending on the climate they live in, Goldadors may need regular baths — however omitting shampoo once or twice a year will ensure their coat retains its natural oils. Finally it is recommended to check the ears regularly and trim nails as needed. Adopted Golden Labrador Retriever Puppies. Tomato leaves stem or unripe fruit Alcohol, beer, wine or liquor Grapes or raisins Golden Retriever Crossed with Labrador Exercise Requirements The Lab Golden Retriever Mix has an active temperament so they might get destructive if they get bored. It is recommended to exercise them at least 2 hours daily. Getting them to do physical activities every day will help keep him happy and healthy. Here are some outdoor activities that you can try with your Golden Retriever Lab Mix: Hiking: It is a great way to turn your daily walk more challenging and exciting for your dog. Swimming: Utilize your private pool and do a swimming exercise with your dog companion. Swimming does not only serve as an exercise activity to yourself and to your companion dog, but it is also a great bonding experience. It also provides relief from the heat during the summer months. Make sure you supervise your dog all the time while doing this activity. Dock Diving: This is a fun sports activity to enjoy with your dog. All you have to do is throw a floating toy and encourage your dog to jump and swim out to retrieve it. If you and your Golden Retriever Lab Mix want to upgrade the challenge, you can try joining a Dock Diving Club and compete with other dogs. Play Fetch: This is a classic outdoor game that is great to do in summer. Challenge your dog by putting a twist to the activity, you can either use a Frisbee or a tennis racquet to make the object travel farther for your Golden Labrador to retrieve and return back to you. However, you should not be working them too much because when it comes to recovering objects, both parent breeds of Golden Retriever Lab Mix can be overly enthusiastic. However, even though they are intelligent dogs and has a friendly nature, you still need to put time and effort to train them better. Both parent breeds were bred to carry things. The best way to teach your Goldador not to bark is to socialize them frequently with strangers. Use Positive Reinforcement The Labrador crossed with Golden Retriever is a sensitive type of dog, so training them using positive reinforcement will be very helpful. Make sure to avoid negative punishment-based training since this hybrid dog may end up fearing you rather than respecting you as their leader. Make it a regular routine to reward your puppy whenever they do something right. Training your Goldador consistently in a positive method will give you pet companions that are obedient and good-natured. Do Mental Exercise The Golden Retriever mixed with Lab is an intelligent dog, and they need stimulating mental activities to avoid developing any aggressive behaviors, such as nuisance barking and chewing. Without proper mental exercise, Goldador puppies will grow into a passive, timid and uninspired dog. Labrador Golden Retriever Mix and Families Despite its large size, the Labrador mixed with Golden Retriever is a great family dog because of its easy-going personality. It is extremely friendly and affectionate. The Goldador is the type of dog that goes well in a loving and active family — one that considers him as a family member. The Golden Labradors cherish the company with children. They are naturally gentle, but they can play tirelessly as long as your kids can keep up. However, due to their sheer size, supervision is still needed around toddlers and infants. The Goldadors makes an excellent therapy and companion dog. Because of their affectionate nature, they generally do well when given lots of attention and affection. These hybrid dogs love to be with people, and hence it is tough for them to cope with solitude. So give love lots of love and affection to your Goldador Lab Retriever Mix and expect that it will shower you back with love. It is their outgoing, affectionate, and eager-to-please demeanor that makes them so qualified to take on all of these jobs and still be the perfect family pet. When it comes to breed standards, the AKC recognizes three official colors for the Labrador: black, chocolate, and yellow. At Hidden Pond Labradors, we understand that everybody has a different preference in mind when they set out to bring one of these incredible dogs into their home. Yellow Labrador Retriever Breeder The yellow Lab is one of the most popular colors, in part due to its photogenic nature. This also makes them excellent show dogs, although any of the three recognized colors can easily achieve Grand Champion status. Coat shades that are classified as yellow range from white to fox red. Like chocolate, the yellow coat is a recessive color that requires both parents to carry and pass on the gene. Yellow Labrador Retrievers, just like every other color, have a stable, amiable temperament. Their trainability and discipline should not be mistaken for lethargy though. Labs are very active dogs that will bring a lot of fun energy to your household. Are you interested in the unconditional love, support, and joy a Lab can bring to your family? Get in touch with Hidden Pond Labradors! Your purchase of one of our yellow Labrador Retriever puppies includes a veterinarian health certificate , first set of vaccinations, one-year written health warranty, and a lifetime placement warranty should you need it. Contact us today to reserve a puppy from our next litter! Life Span Did You Know? The Golden Labrador is a designer dog breed that originated in the United States. They are a cross between a Golden Retriever and a Labrador Retriever. The goal was to combine these two highly popular breeds to create a dog that exhibits the best traits from both of them. A mixed dog breed can take after one parent breed more than the other or any combination of traits from the parent breeds. This can result in some variation among individual puppies. But, overall, a Golden Labrador is friendly, intelligent, energetic, and affectionate. Although this mixed breed is not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other notable organizations like the American Canine Hybrid Club and more. This large designer breed is characterized by their energetic personality and friendly disposition. Both of the parent breeds in this cross are open, friendly, and affectionate, so you can expect the same in your Golden Labrador puppy. They are very playful and get along fabulously with children, other dogs, and other pets. They may be alert enough to be a good watchdog, but they do not make good guard dogs. They are instinctually more interested in making new friends and getting attention than they are with anything else. They can have a slight prey drive, but most of the time, they are just curious and interested in playing and making friends. The Golden Labrador is a moderately adaptable dog breed. Their large size and energy tend to make them a better fit for larger homes with room to run. They can adapt well to apartment living as long as they are given enough exercise and mental stimulation. But, small spaces can be a challenge because they are large dogs that are so playful and energetic. Golden Labradors do well in just about any climate. As with most dog breeds, they are sensitive to heat and extreme cold. Because they love their families, thrive on attention, and get bored easily, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. As a mixed breed, a Golden Labrador can inherit the potential health conditions of one or both of the parent breeds. Although the Golden Labrador is a relatively healthy dog breed, there are some potential health conditions to be aware of. These include eye problems like progressive retinal atrophy and joint issues common to large dogs like patellar luxation and hip dysplasia. Like their parent breeds, the Golden Labrador can be prone to weight gain, which does put them at risk of diabetes later in life. Reputable breeders will screen their stock to ensure genetic conditions are not being passed on to puppies. Regular vet visits, proper nutrition, and sufficient exercise can help keep your dog healthy and reduce preventable diseases. Both of the parent breeds in this cross are highly intelligent and highly trainable, so the Golden Labrador should be no different. Eager to please their owners, these dogs pick up on things quickly and respond best to positive training methods focused on praise and reward. This dog breed, like both of the parent breeds, is a great fit for owners of all experience levels, including first-time dog owners. Their high energy can sometimes be a challenge, so you may want to consider puppy training and obedience classes. This designer dog breed may be called a Golden Labrador, but they can show up in many colors. A cream, yellow, or golden coat may be the most common, but a Golden Labrador can also have a black, red, or brown coat. It tends to be a dense double coat that is short or medium in length. This dog breed will shed moderately year-round with heavier shedding sessions twice a year as the seasons change. During seasonal changes, you may want to increase to daily brushing. Not only will this make your dog more comfortable, but it will also decrease the amount of loose fur that ends up around your house. In addition to coat care, you will also need to handle nail, ear, and dental care for your Golden Labrador. Floppy ears tend to trap more dirt, moisture, and debris, which makes them more prone to developing ear infections than ears that stick straight up. Unfortunately, this is often overlooked, which is why gum disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. Beyond that, you can use vet-approved dental hygiene chews and treats and even a specially-formulated dental care diet to supplement your efforts. Getting them used to it early and keeping it a positive experience can make grooming a lot easier as your puppy grows into a big dog! Plus, it can become a bonding experience that your dog looks forward to. Golden Labradors are high-energy dogs. Daily walks, playtime, and some extra activity are generally enough for this dog to stay happy and healthy. But, they will probably tire out before you do! Their friendly nature makes the Golden Labrador a great fit for trips to the dog park. Try teaching your dog how to play frisbee. With their retriever background, it could become one of their favorite activities. You can also train your Golden Labrador for several dog sports like agility, dock diving, obedience, and more. A fully-grown Golden Labrador usually stands inches tall at the shoulder and weighs between pounds. A Golden Labrador generally lives years. Although Golden Labrador is the most popular name for this designer dog breed, they are also sometimes referred to as a Goldador or a Goldador Retriever. Featured Golden Labrador Article.

How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

Arrowhead Australian Labradoodles Arrowhead Australian Labradoodles were founded after a long and passionate affection for the breed. Only high-quality Multi-generational Australian Labradoodles with non-shedding, allergy-friendly, and hypoallergenic coats are bred by this breeder. They have exceptional health, conformation, and temperament in their Australian Labradoodles. Their goal is to ensure that every Australian Labradoodle produced comes from the best available breeding stock. These puppies are the ideal family companion pet since they are nurturing and affectionate. ALL breeding dogs are subjected to comprehensive health testing at 16 weeks and every 18 months. The testing assures that you get a healthy puppy free of life-threatening disorders and diseases. They collaborate closely with veterinarians to ensure optimum health and breeding practices. All Labradoodles entering their breeding program are subjected to a thorough health and temperament evaluation. These cheerful dogs are the ideal pet for a family! Doodles of Louisiana not only cares about the mother of the puppies and the puppies themselves, but they also provide owners with lifelong assistance as they embark on their new adventure. This breeder, based in central Louisiana, ensures the well-being of its puppies through rigorous health exams. They are given their first shots, are dewormed every two weeks, and are screened for genetic conditions. They offer Labradoodles in different sizes, which you can choose depending on your lifestyle. Doodles of Louisiana guarantees that it will provide the best service possible to all its clients. They do not produce in masses; rather, they breed dogs times in their prime years. This family-run breeder provides a loving atmosphere in which the dogs and puppies can live with their families. They only breed from their parents a few times in their lives to protect themselves and their offspring. They make certain that the puppies are cared for and whelped with their parents until they are adopted. After that, the puppies are examined by veterinarians and given immunizations, microchips, and worming. From birth until they depart with their forever family, our home-based dog breeding business in Saint Amant is committed to preserving the health and well-being of our puppies. Your puppy will be highly socialized and ready to be adored when you get him! All of their puppies are CKC registered, have undergone a wellness check, and have received all necessary immunizations. For your records, a personal medical pamphlet is given. This breeder combines AKC-registered Labradors with highly competent pedigree Poodles to produce the most flawless litters. Meadow Lake Labradoodles only breed from their sire and dam times in their lives to assure healthy puppies and parents. Before going to their new homes, the puppies are given a thorough health examination, worming, and vaccines, as well as a vet-approved health certificate. The puppies also come with a 2-year genetic health guarantee. They breed and raise Labradoodle puppies in a safe and warm environment near New Orleans. Southern Cross is a legitimate breeder who cares about the welfare of all of their dogs, from Labradoodle puppies to their parents, as members of the Australian Labradoodle Association of America. In Louisiana, all of their Labradoodle puppies are multi-generational. This means that they have parents that are closely related. Only the most healthy and well-behaved Labradoodle puppies who will be a great addition to your family will leave their kennel, and only with the Southern Cross Australian Labradoodles health and genetic guarantee. All of their dogs can trace their lineage back to Australia. Location: Near New Orleans. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Gray Louisiana and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. Questions about Labradoodle puppies for sale in Louisiana? We have answers. Give me an overview of Labradoodle puppies for sale in Louisiana. Say it with us—no sneezing, no sniffling, no hair tumbleweeds blowing through your house every time you wake up. Life is easier with a Labradoodle. Friendliest Dispositions Do you find yourself wishing you had a partner on your morning jogs, or maybe wishing you had a cuddle buddy for your weekend naps? Life is better with a Labradoodle at your side, because these dogs just love being around people. The Uptown Family Our top-of-the-line food, supplements and training materials are designed to help you and your new Labradoodle live life to the fullest. Everyone who takes home an Uptown Puppy becomes a part of our family, and we want to help you bring out the best in your Doodle! Perfect Family Pet What do retirees, big families with lots of kids, and outdoor adventurers have in common? And the best part about working with Uptown is that YOU get to pick! Better for our dogs, better for us, and better for you! Highest Louisiana Labradoodle Breeder Standards By enforcing retirement ages, litter number limitations, and guaranteeing that our mommy Doodles live in the best guardian homes, we ensure that our dogs are as happy and healthy as possible—and of course our puppies get to live life to the fullest, too! Elite Louisiana Labradoodle Genetic Lines We want to breed the best Australian Labradoodles, and that means working hard to bring out the most positive traits in each of our litters.

Your puppy will be born and raised in our busy household. Our passion is to produce wonderful family pets with gentle loving temperaments that will bring a lifetime of happiness. We are extremely proud that the foundation of our lines have been trained as canine partner dogs and many of our puppies are therapy dogs and visit schools regularly. We have been breeding for a number of years and over these years we have seen many clubs come and go and we have been a member of some of them. We breed authentic Australian Labradoodles with lines that have been verified. We are content to follow our own path with strong ethics. We have an excellent reputation and we adopt the highest standards so you can be assured your puppy is an authentic Australian Labradoodle with bloodlines and health testing that has been verified. We follow a socialisation programme and temperament test all of our puppies before puppy pick day so we can help you make your choice. Temperament and health is always our first priority. We purchased our first Australian Labradoodle in and have been hooked ever since. Our dogs are our much loved family pets or live with their guardian families. Please contact us via email for more information. Access to our private puppy family area. A WhatsApp group for your litter. Both parents have been fully health tested with certificates available to view. Been bred in our family home by a 5 star council licensed breeder. Temperament tested and advice provided at puppy viewing. Call us today on Health Guaranteed All our puppies leave us with a full vet health check and a 2 year genetic health guarantee. Health Tested All our breeding Australian Labradoodles are fully health tested. We give our puppies the best start by following a tried and tested programme. Ethical Breeding We have the highest welfare standards which is why we hold a 5 star council licence. We believe every dog deserves a good life and this starts with the breeder. What our customers say.We travelled far to find her, and her knowledge, expertise and love for all things ALD is exceptional. After only a few days, Willow is already a huge part of our lives and so we are very glad that we chose Judy and RIpley's. Our dogs are very much our family pets. We are not a kennel, all our Australian Labradoodles have wonderful fulfilling lives either with us or our guardian families. Our dogs are for life and not just for breeding. The health and temperament of Australian Labradoodles is our number one priority, of course we breed exceptionally lovely puppies but our puppies health and temperament will always be our first priority. The Australian Labradoodle breed originated in Australia in the 's. The focus has always been on temperament, coat and quality through good health testing and planned matings. Our Australian Labradoodles are multigenerational, meaning both parents are Australian Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are very people focussed, they have a strong desire to please. Australian Labradoodles come in 3 sizes, miniature, medium and standard. Within my breeding programme I concentrate on miniature and mediums. Our Australian Labradoodles are extremely clever, sociable , comical and joyful. They are energetic when free and quiet in the home. We test their hips, elbows, eyes and genetics. When you purchase a Ripley's Australian Labradoodle you can be assured we have tested everything possible. We provide a 2 year health guarantee but we ask that our puppy families not give ingestible flea and worming treatments. A spiritual breeder with a big heart. Our puppies are born with love, and our support is forever. We bring these beautiful souls into the world, and their forever happiness is the most important thing of all. We pride ourselves on communication, support and friendship. Firstly let me introduce myself, My name is Michelle, and we are a small breeder with strong ethics and a big heart. My dogs really are my life. They are my companions, best friends and family. As you will discover with the breed, they are my entertainment too. Pippa, her daughter Florence and her grandaughter Merebelle live here with me and Winnie. Along with the heartwarming joy we feel when we meet their new families and see how they truly change lives. Read a handful of our reviews, and you will understand how special our Australian Labradoodles are and how passionate we are about supporting our families. Benson was my world. He was a fantastic companion who filled every day with love and laughter. Benson is the reason we breed these beautiful dogs. I wanted to share what I found in Benson with others. I built this website myself with the aim of giving you a window into the world of the Australian Labradoodle. It was imperative that our website was written from the heart rather than built by a business. All of our breeding dogs are much-loved pets who have their very own forever families. And we couldn't have it any other way. We never sell retired breeding dogs. When our dogs retire, they stay with their forever families. Our Guardian program works brilliantly. Why not pop onto our Guardian Page to find out more? We consider our pup's families our friends and are always at the end of a call or text to offer help and guidance. We create private pages for our litters, enabling their families to follow their pup's progress from birth to collection. These pages create great memories too. Imagine looking back in ten years time, seeing their first steps. We use these pages to upload photos and videos and share advice and links to help their families prepare for their arrival. In addition, we have an Essex-based Australian Labradoodle walking group where you can arrange your own group walks. Our pup's health and temperament are of the utmost importance to us. The health of the puppies starts with the health of both parents. All of our breeding dogs go through physical and DNA health screening. All of their health and breed authentication certificates are available to view on choosing day. There is no rush when you are here. Rather than tryig to see everyone in one day, we invite our families to spend time with the puppies over a week. I love sharing my knowledge about the breed, so please do not hesitate to call. The love and devotion the Australian labradoodle has for their human friends is simply amazing; indeed the Australian Labradoodle was bred to not only to be a companion but a trained therapy assistant dog. Through diligent breeding practices, keeping temperament the top priority, the breed have developed to become extremely smart, intuitive, loving, fun dogs. Australian Labradoodles have wonderful sense of humours. They live to make people smile. Australian Labradoodles love everyone and every thing. .They live their lives assuming and insisting that everyone and everything loves them back. They really do bring so much joy. Please take a moment to read through our reviews on the website and Facebook page. Our Australian Labradoodles really do change lives. Australian Labradoodles also make excellent performance and agility dogs. Therefore if you're looking to keep busy, be very easy to train and enjoy learning new things, the sky is the limit. Their unique connection to their human companions makes them yearn to be near their people and eager to please them. Take a look at the video below of our lovely Yogi, who is a therapy dog. He loves to visit all the people who need a little Yogi love. Our aim here at Churchills Australian Labradoodles is to breed healthy, happy puppies who are perfect family pets and assistance dogs, as well as one on one companions. You will see from our photo galleries that all our dogs have lovely soft fleece coats and great looks that the Australian Labradoodles are known for. Pups will be Mini Australian Labradoodles. The colours will be Cream, Apricot and Chocolate. Olive is Clementine's daughter and Winnie's granddaughter, a real chip off the old block. She is very sweet-natured. Winnie is a total sloth. As typical of the breed, Olive loves everyone and understands that everyone loves her. Olive lives with Savannah, and they have become the best of friends. Olive is the sunshine of the family. She enjoys her food and loves being off-lead. Olive's recall is brilliant, and she is very keen to please. He loves a neck tickle and when he wants a fuss he is quite happy to try and knock the phone out of your hand to make sure you know he is there always likes to be on the work zoom call too. He has joined in many meetings. Whether you leave the room for 5 mins or longer he is so pleased to see you and loves to show off one of his toys! He is such a clever boy he always knows on a Friday he is walking with his friend Wilson cockapoo and waits by the door! Such a friendly boy who always beats his family to the door when the doorbell rings never barks just wants to say hello! As a family they simply adore him! Churchill's Agetha.

Some of these you can help prevent, while others are out of your immediate control. If your GSD carries the genes for ears that lie down, instead of standing erect, then more than likely they will have floppy ears. This means they may have ears that never stand up and are floppy for life. Breeding Some breeders choose to pair parents that both have large, erect ears. And some buyers and owners prefer this larger style of ears for show or aesthetic purposes. But, there is some theory that breeding a German Shepherd with larger and larger ears might contribute to ears that stay flopped over. Always see the parents of the puppy you buy from the breeder on the premises to see their appearance. Physical Damage or Accidents Puppies are active and mischievous and can get into plenty of trouble. This includes physical damage or accidents that have the cartilage or muscles in their ears. If this happens their ears may suffer long-term damage and not stand up naturally on their own. So watch out for a rough play that might lead to ear damage. And, if your pup has been in an accident that hurt their ears, take them immediately to the vets. Improper and Poor Nutrition German Shepherds need balanced nutrition during crucial growing stages, including vitamins and minerals that aid in cartilage and muscle development of their ears. You should ensure your dog gets the right nutrition from the start to avoid any issues. Along with Vitamin D, calcium helps strengthen the cartilage to aid in building a strong foundation for the ears to stand up later. Neglecting Ear Cleaning Puppies still need ear cleaning when dirt and build-up are overly present. Dirty ears that become neglected can inhibit proper growth and cause discomfort for your dog, causing them to excessively scratch their ears which can cause damage. This could cause them more harm! Instead, wipe away the dirt from the skin of the ear with a warm, damp washcloth or use special ear cleaning wipes. A dog with one floppy ear and one ear upright is totally normal. Occasionally, your German Shepherd might have one floppy ear and one ear standing upright. If they are a small puppy then they are most likely growing and the one ear down still needs time to go upright naturally. These are some of the best techniques that will help their ears to stand up. They only need to sit inside the ear enough to support cartilage growth. Make sure you check for any creases or folds in their ears before moving on to the next step. Repeat in the other ear. Make a Popsicle Support Now, take the popsicle sticks and place them at the top of the foam rollers both ears should have foam rollers in them at this point. You might need another pair of hands to help with this, so ask your family or friends to help. Take the self-adhering waterproof tape and place a medium-size piece across and around the two foam rollers and popsicle sticks. This ensures even and symmetrical growth. Make a bridge across their ears instead. If your German Shepherd puppy is 9 months old and their ears still flop over, please see your vet for further assistance. When in doubt, get your vet to show you what to do for their ears. Your puppy might become annoyed with the tape on their ears, so they may need close supervision and even some distraction during the taping process. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a German Shepherd that has floppy ears and putting them at risk to have any unnecessary surgery to get their ears to stand up can cause them pain. Speak to your vet about the side effects and pain associated with ear implants. You can help prevent floppy ears in your dog by taking the appropriate steps to keep them healthy. The top ways to help a GSD with floppy ears include: 1. Feed them a high-quality food Giving your dog the proper nutrition for optimum growth is a necessity, especially when they are puppies and growing rapidly. Choose a puppy food with the correct ratio of nutrients and vitamins to ensure they get the correct building blocks for development. When you choose to give them treats, pick ones from this list of the best healthy dog treats for German Shepherd puppies. Provide them with the proper chew toys Chewing helps to strengthen the muscles that surround the ears. Or worse… Injure them. Learn to play and discipline a German Shepherd puppy the right way to avoid accidental ear injuries or damage. German Shepherds with ears that are floppy are a joy to own, no matter their age! Floppy ears are adorable and give your dog even more character. Go on, and find out what makes your companion the happiest dog on the planet! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Aug 18, Share German Shepherds have a distinctive look that includes alert, erect ears. For most pups, the ear cartilage begins to harden around week 20, or when the pup is finished teething. At that point, it can take up to 20 weeks for the ears to stand up fully. This can vary by the individual, however. Like human ears, dog ears are made of cartilage. As they grow and gain nutrition, German Shepherds develop stronger and stronger cartilage to support those ears. Typically, puppies at weeks will have floppy ears that occasionally stand up but quickly fall back down. Around week 20, or 5 months, your pup is done teething and its ears will begin to harden and stand. Your vet may have some suggestions to help the process along. If your pup reaches 8 months and still has floppy ears, the chance of them standing on their own is slim. Some breeders try to breed for larger ears, leading to ears that are too heavy to stand up. If strong, alert ears are important to you, be sure to look for a pup with parents that have erect ears. If the ears sustain trauma during that time, it can cause permanent damage to the cartilage. If your puppy gets parasites, it can impact healthy development, which includes the hardening of its ear cartilage. Be sure to take your puppy to the vet regularly and have routine fecal exams to check for worms and other parasites. Your vet can recommend an appropriate deworming protocol for your growing puppy and treat parasites if they occur. However, if you want your puppy to have strong, alert ears, you can help the process along in a number of ways. In an effort to move ear development along, some owners will add supplements like calcium. Chew toys are also good for teething and keeping your puppy occupied. German Shepherds are strong, even as pups, so be sure to choose solid, durable chew toys that are safe and appropriate for your puppy. It should only be used as a last resort, however. If you use tape too early, it can hinder natural development. That said, if you wait until the seventh or eighth month, it may be too late to help. Glue the ends of the popsicle stick to the tape on both ears, horizontally. Once a week, remove the popsicle stick, foam, and tape. If the ears stand on their own, leave them. Related Reads:. It commonly occurs anywhere from eight weeks to six months. So, any German Shepherd parent would know that these adorable dogs have floppy ears when they are just puppies. However, stronger cartilage will be developed as you give them the proper nutrients. It might mostly occur as a response to your call or noise in the surrounding area. It can be a result of poor nutrition or slow development. Your German Shepherd needs abundant vitamin D, calcium, and protein. Lacking these nutrients in their diet will result in weak cartilage. Switch to better food or visit the vet for a checkup. They are still incredibly cute, anyway! If you want to ensure that you have a pooch with perky ears, make sure to look for parents with standing ears. Do all German Shepherd ears stand up? Even if you have already, you can know whether your pooch will have floppy or perky ears when it grows. It can compromise their health and adversely affect their growth, including strengthening the cartilage. Regular checkups and fecal exams can help prevent or abate that problem. Your vet can give your dog deworming medicines to see that your growing furry friend is free from parasites. Any traumatic injury to the ears can cause permanent damage and prevent the ears from growing strong enough to stand. It can be caused by a child pulling its ears and rough play among its littermates. Regularly monitor your pup and keep anyone from playing with its ears when they are in its developmental stage. But there are things you can do to help it get strong and healthy ears. These steps will also protect the ears from possible damage. Get high-quality food for your puppy to boost their development. Cheap foods usually have more fillers that contain negligible nutrients. Keep the puppy away and safe from other puppies that play bite with their ears. Educate your children and everyone else at home on how to handle the puppy carefully and gently. Giving your puppy chew toys will give their head, jaw, and surrounding muscles some exercise. It can lead to better ear development. Make sure to buy durable ones, as German Shepherd pups are stronger than you think! Clean their ears gently if you notice dirt. Keep your dog happy! A happy dog is a healthy dog. It will have fewer or no health problems if you keep the dog fit. Using the tape too early or during its growing stage can harm its natural development. However, the 7th to 8th month might be a little too late. But that may not be true for all, as some German Shepherds are just built differently. Their looks come second when you experience how good of a companion they can make. But the young ones carry cute floppy ears that eventually stand up. Some take longer. Remember that floppy ears do not affect their health negatively. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Especially during the first six months, be extra careful not to aggressively clean their ears. They will be more prone to lesions in the ear cartilage at this time. Yet it would be understandable if you are reading this and feel dismay or even horror. How can that possibly be a good thing? But understand we are not talking about doing anything harmful or invasive. The techniques you are about to read about will not harm or hurt your German Shepherd puppy at all. They will simply support the ears to grow into the upright position without having to work so hard to get there — or stay there. You want to give your pup enough time to try to do this naturally. But you also want to intervene before the cartilage in the ears starts to harden usually around seven to eight months old , leaving the ear flaps in the wrong position. You will need the following supplies: Some type of surgical tape NOT duct tape or any super-adhesive tape. Foam roller inserts or foam pipe insulation cut to size. Two plain popsicle sticks or unsharpened pencils. Wrap the surgical tape around the outside of the ear to hold the insert in place. Be prepared for your puppy to find a way to paw off this strange contraption several times before they finally get used to it and forget about it. You want to leave this in place for a week and then remove it to check the ear position. You may notice the ears start to stand a little straighter week by week. But if you see them flop over again, you need to re-tape them until they are strong enough to stand up on their own. Ear gluing Another option you can try is puppy ear gluing. This is actually not nearly as awful as it sounds and is far easier to do than the ear taping method. Another perk of puppy ear gluing over taping is that you are not going to cut off any air circulation to the inner ear canal. The key is to pick some kind of fabric glue do NOT use super glue or super-bonding glue that may not come off. What you need to do for this method is to add a dab of glue to the outside of the inner ear flap about two-thirds of the way down from the ear tip point. Then press the two ear flaps together for 30 seconds to allow the glue to set. Wherever possible, if you have multiple dogs in your household, try to keep your German Shepherd puppy from playing rough games with the other dogs. Rowdy playtime can easily cause the ears to separate. The glue will wear off on its own after a while and you can observe if the ears are able to remain upright and erect when this occurs. If you need to, keep reapplying the glue until the ears are strong and stable to remain in the correct position without glue. It may take a few weeks or longer for this to occur. Do not worry if the ears are not in a perfect position. As long as they stay upright, the inner muscles and tissues will naturally self-correct over time. Surgery Certain situations may even require surgical implants, like when ear cartilage damage occurs. Massage the Ears Massaging the ears helps by increasing blood flow to the ears, helping your form strong ear: Muscles Cartilage Chew Toys Chew toys are not only great for keeping your pup occupied, but they can also be great sources of collagen. This will help build strong ear cartilage capable of holding the ears in the upright position. Chew toys also work the ear muscles. This will strengthen the surrounding tissues. This is especially true for dogs prone to health issues, like German Shepherds. Foods rich in nutrients like calcium and glucosamine will help your dog form strong and healthy ears. These nutrients are vital for developing sturdy ear cartilage. Stimulation Dogs communicate a lot with their ears. Just think of German Shepherds that are alert and focused on something, like an odd noise they heard outside. Chances are, their ears will be standing erectly. Stimulation like this encourages the use of the ear muscles. There are two areas where you will definitely want to pay closer attention. Bath time and during playtime with other dogs. Keeping water out of the ears will reduce infections and head shaking. Using a headband is an easy way to do this, and can also prevent injuries when playing with other dogs. What causes German Shepherds to have floppy ears? The most common ones include breeding issues, teething, cartilage development issues, trauma, and poor nutrition or hygiene. Breeding Pointy German Shepherd ears are among the top distinct features of the breed. Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead to improper breeding practices. Teething Floppy ears are a common occurrence when the dog is teething. Developing cartilage German Shepherd puppies are born with floppy ears. As their bodies develop, their ear cartilage and muscles also develop up to the point that they are able to support the weight of the ears, keeping them upright. German Shepherd ears typically start to perk up when the dog is about 6 to 10 weeks old. They can also sometimes flop back down while the dog is teething only to stand up again. Trauma Trauma is a common reason for floppy ears in German Shepherds. Physical trauma caused by an accident or injury to the ears can cause one or both of them to drop. If you suspect trauma, visit your vet to address any wounds and prevent infection. However, their ears need to be kept clean in order to prevent infections that could cause their ears to drop. Dogs not getting enough calcium and vitamin D during puppyhood may have trouble keeping their ears up as their skeletal support structure is not developed properly. They should be well-aligned, symmetrical namely just as wide as they are tall , and carried upright. However, not all dogs will have perfectly standard ears and some may have ears that are too large, too small, too high, too low, or just ears that point in the wrong direction. In fact, there are at least 12 different German Shepherd ear shapes , each with their own distinct characteristics. German Shepherd ears will usually stand up at around 4 months of age. But this can happen as early as the 1-month mark, or as late as the 6-month mark when teething finishes. But more than anything, they tell you how the dog is feeling at any given time. The ears really are the window to the soul for not just GSDs, but all dogs. During this time, more calcium is being directed to the growing teeth, and away from the ear cartilage. When teething is over, and more calcium can be directed back to the ears, they will most likely stand back up again. This is especially true if your pup has sustained an ear injury in the past, and broke the ear cartilage as a result. German Shepherd puppies are especially prone to this during the first 6 to 8 months, since their ears are still developing. These injuries can occur during rowdy play with other dogs and people, or from excessive scratching. This will help their ears develop faster and stronger, and will help prevent ear injuries in the future. But in most cases, if you act fast enough, even the floppiest German Shepherd ears are capable of being corrected. Ear development can vary from puppy to puppy. If they stand up when the puppy is scared or excited or when they bark, you can expect to see fully erect years by the time they are six months old. Will my German Shepherd mix ears stand up? Depending on the genes they inherited, your German Shepherd mix may have erect ears or not. You can support their ear development by giving them chew toys, massaging the base of their ears, and giving them calcium and vitamin D supplements. The ear flap is the outermost ear and is often called the pinna plural is pinnae. A dog has two pinna — one for each ear. Each pinna can work independently of the other, which is part of what gives dogs such keen hearing. This is the same reason all German Shepherd puppies are born with their ears down and floppy. It takes time for the cartilage to form, thicken and then harden into the characteristic erect ear position of the German Shepherd. The ears might pop up as early as four weeks old only to flop back down around four months old. Not only is the cartilage in the outer ears still forming and hardening, but the many muscles, tendons, ligaments, and tissues that help the ears move and function are still getting coordinated as well. This is why it is wise not to get concerned about ear position or stability until after your German Shepherd puppy has finished teething. There is just too much growing going on to expect your little puppy to look like a full-grown adult dog yet. This video gives you some unique tips to help their ears get stronger and stand up without human assistance like some of the tips you read about in this article. I get a lot of emails about taping German Shepherd puppy ears. The majority of these emails come from people who are jumping the gun and worrying too much. By that, I mean their pups are 3 or 4 months old and they are starting to panic because their puppy's ears are not standing. I tell these people that they need patience, they need to wait until their pup has finished teething. I caution these people not to jump the gun and tape the dog's ears too early or in the wrong way. I know people who have screwed their dog's ears up for life by doing this. I have had puppy customers who go ballistic on me and panic. So I issue a word of caution here. With that said, the other side of the spectrum of taping ears is something that many people do not take seriously until it's too late. When ears are taped at 7 and 8 months, there is very little chance of it working. This is an unfortunate fact of life. German Shepherd puppy ears can come up between 8 weeks and 6 months. If they are not up when the dog is through teething this varies from dog to dog but in general between 16 weeks and 20 weeks of age , I tell my puppy customers to get very interested in their ears. While it's not time to panic, it is time to sit up and take notice. The first thing to do is make sure that your puppy is in good health. This means no intestinal parasites. Take a stool sample to your vet to have it analyzed. It's also important to make sure the pup is getting good quality food. We feed and recommend a raw diet but if you do feed a commercial diet, I strongly recommend researching all the options available and feeding the highest-quality food you can afford. View our list of all-natural kibble alternatives. In fact, a lot of times, a pup will have both ears up and all of a sudden, they will come back down when the pup starts to teeth. Many owners panic when this happens. But not to worry, I have never seen a pup whose ears did not go back up when this happens. If a pup does not have his ears up by 5 months, I strongly recommend that you get involved with taping your dog's ears. Use the thin white surgical tape the kind that's paper-thin and tears easily. The 3M Micropore tape, 2" wide, works well. I like to use women's hair rollers. Take the plastic out of them and just use the foam. Wrap the ear around the foam and tape them into a tight roll. In a vertical position. Take a popsicle stick and attach it to the top part of both ears. In a horizontal position. The pup is going to tear the tape or stick off the ears several times. The key is to continue to re-tape the ears. Sooner or later, the pup will forget the tape and ignore it. About once a week, take the tape off and see if the ears will stand on their own. Continue to re-tape until the ears stand. If the ears are not up by 7 or 8 months, they are not going to come up. The ears should look like this once taped. The same dog with ears now up. I have seen ears that did not stand, which in my opinion would have stood had they been taped. So this process is not something to take lightly. I also need to say that many ears will be a little weak right after taping but with time, they will strengthen. So when an ear does not stand perfectly after taping don't panic. Just have patience and see what happens. You will really not have an idea exactly what you have until the pup is 12 months old. When ears do not stand, there are ear implants that can be surgically added. I have no experience with this and do not know anything about them. If you are unlucky enough to have a dog whose ears will not stand, I would point you toward a vet that has some experience in this area. I don't think it's something that normal small animal vets know how to do well. In my opinion, too young to tape. The material to use to tape German Shepherd Ears The pup with its ears taped I prefer taping German Shepherd Dogs ears after the dog has finished teething. This usually means the dog is older than 4 - 6 months. Maybe waiting another month would have been a better idea for this puppy.