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The range of amounts is based on the activity of your Golden for the day, either low, moderate, or high level of activity. Golden Retrievers should have scheduled times to eat daily. The scheduled times will help them with their energy levels and keep them healthy. You can schedule their eating times as to what works best for your schedule. For example, feeding them before you leave for work and then when you get home. As a puppy, they will eat three times a day, so you will need to find times in those first few months to feed them more often. When they are an adult or senior, the scheduling of feeding times will be easier because they will only eat twice daily. For a Golden Retriever puppy, the best feeding schedule is once in the morning, noontime, and in the evening. For example, you could feed their first meal at am, lunch at noon, then dinner at pm. Planning their mealtimes around your mealtimes will often make it easier for you and the puppy. Make sure to give them plenty of time after eating to got to the bathroom a couple of times before heading to bed. Hopefully, this will help them sleep for a longer period. After about six months, your Golden Retriever can go down to two daily feedings. This usually occurs once in the morning and once in the evening. They can usually last about 12 hours between meals. If it goes past 12 hours, they could become nauseated. Golden Retrievers can experience food allergies often caused from proteins in dairy or meat products. If your dog experiences symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, or itching they may have a food allergy. They warn that feeding dogs any raw animal-source protein could cause illness because it has not gone through a process to remove harmful pathogens. However, a raw diet can be healthy if you are willing to go through the extra cleaning processes of the meat. This is a lot of work and difficult to do correctly and safely. We do not recommend it without expert veterinary help. Before starting a raw diet with your Golden, be sure to consult a veterinarian. Find one that is familiar with raw foods and can help with the proper handling of the foods. If you work hard to make sure your homemade foods are rich in the vitamins and minerals that a dog needs, then it might work for your Golden Retriever. It takes a lot more time to find recipes and make sure it has all the nutritional value of a store-bought dog food. If you are willing to research expertly formulated recipes internet is making it easier to do this , and take the time to cook for your golden then go for it! Consulting your veterinarian is a must before starting any homemade diet. A veterinary nutritionist should also review your plan before starting. Feeding your Golden Retriever table food is not the best practice but a small amount of dog healthy table food is fine. Some example table foods that are healthy for them are carrots, blueberries and plain yogurt. Just be aware that feeding them too much table food can throw their entire diet out of whack. They may not be getting enough vitamins and minerals like they do from their dog food. Conclusion Making sure your Golden Retriever is getting the right foods at the right amounts will help them live their best life. There are many choices of foods with all the right ingredients. Be sure to choose one that works best for you and your Golden. Consult with your veterinarian on which food will bring the most nutritional value to the health of your Golden Retriever. If your Golden is experiencing any health issues related to changing foods, visit your veterinarian. If this article was helpful, please consider sharing this post on Facebook with the button below! She is board certified a specialist in canine reproduction. In her day job, she is a leader in a small biotech where she and a team of veterinarians and scientists work to develop new medications for pets. She enjoys sharing her knowledge of this wonderful breed of dogs. She and her husband have 2 children, 3 dogs and one cat. They love camping and hiking and she can often be found with her head in a good book. Recent Posts. Learn more » Congratulations on your new golden retriever puppy! You now have a beautiful, smart, and loyal dog who will love you for life. To make sure they grow into a healthy and happy companion, you need to feed them the right amount of food. At months old, which is usually when they are ready to leave their mother, a golden retriever puppy should be eating 3 cups of dog food divided into three meals per day. This is based on a typical large-breed puppy food. Different brands will give a feeding guide on their packaging. However, how much and how often to feed your golden retriever will keep changing during this time of rapid growth. Golden Retriever Puppy Feeding Timeline Image Credit: PxHere All puppies are different as are the foods, but some general guidelines for feeding your golden retriever during their first year are: 0—6 weeks: A golden retriever puppy can start eating solid food when they are 3—4 weeks old. Give them a total of 3 cups of dog food per day by their third month, 3 to 4 cups by the time they are 6 months old. The AKC recommends waiting until large breed puppies are at least 12 months old before switching them over to adult dog food and more likely 18 months. The amount will depend on their weight and activity level, but a rough guide is 1—2 cups per meal. Image Credit: Kinek00, Shutterstock Large breed puppies like golden retrievers should eat three to four small meals a day for the first 3—6 months of their lives. Smaller portions spread throughout the day are easier on their tummies and help prevent bloat, a serious condition that can be deadly for dogs. It also helps them maintain their energy level throughout the day. Puppy food has more calories and fat to support their growth, as well as extra vitamins and minerals for their developing immune and nervous systems and bones. The protein source matters, too. Puppies need animal-based proteins like chicken, beef, or lamb for their growing muscles. Choose a Large Breed Formula: Large breed puppies grow quickly, which means they need extra support for their bones and joints. Formulations for large breeds contain the correct calcium and phosphorus ratio for strong bones and glucosamine and chondroitin for healthy joints. They can help you choose the right food for your puppy based on their age, weight, and activity level. But puppies need to be fed on a schedule to prevent them from overeating and becoming overweight. How do you know if your puppy is getting enough to eat? After that, their growth will start to slow down. He Has a Healthy Appetite: A healthy puppy is interested in food and eager to eat. He Has Plenty of Energy: A well-fed puppy is full of energy and ready to play. Make the most of mealtime with these tips: 1. It also helps other aspects of puppy training, such as potty training and crate training. Image Credit: Alena Marchuk, Shutterstock This means leaving food out all day for them to graze on whenever they want. Leave food down for 10 minutes and then pick up what is not eaten. If they have not eaten anything, offer it again in an hour. Slow them down by scattering their kibble around the bowl, using a puzzle feeder or snuffle mat. This will help them learn to eat slowly and enjoy their food more. If your puppy is not drinking enough water for your liking, try adding a bit of broth to their bowl to make it more appealing and help them stay hydrated. Resist the Urge to Sneak Them Table Scraps Puppies are experts at giving those big, soulful eyes that make it hard to say no. But resist the temptation to give them table scraps or human food. Aside from teaching them bad manners, it can also lead to health problems, like obesity. A lot of human foods are not safe or healthy for dogs. For instance, garlic and onions are toxic to dogs. Oily food can upset their stomach, and carbs add a lot of calories. This helps them learn that mealtime is a specific time and place and not something that happens all over the house. Let Your Puppy Eat in Peace. This includes other pets in the house and small children who might want to bother them or try to steal their food. Otherwise, meals can become a stressful experience for your puppy instead of a happy one. Conclusion Feeding your golden retriever puppy the right amount of quality dog food will establish a strong foundation for their health and happiness. In addition, make mealtimes more meaningful by turning them into lessons and bonding moments between you and your dog. The puppy phase is over before you know it, so enjoy it while it lasts! Read the full disclosure here. Being a large and energetic dog, your golden retriever has a ravenous appetite and can eat a lot. However, overfeeding is never good and could be avoided with the help of a golden retriever feeding chart. Knowing how much to feed your golden retriever is always tricky but essential for their well-being and health. Goldens are prone to obesity and joint problems, which can only be exacerbated with an inadequate feeding plan. So, stay with me to find the right feeding plan and meal schedule for your goldie. Most first-time owners think their puppies should be chubby. In truth, golden retriever puppies are supposed to look lanky and act like they are always hungry when fed the correct amount of food. To encourage proper growth and development without making your pup obese, you will have to know how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. For example, cheaper foods use fillers and have a smaller amount of calories, thus you will have to feed more than you would when using premium large breed puppy foods. Golden Retrievers are very food motivated. If your puppy seems to be getting fat, you may need to switch to the lower end of the above recommendations. Alternatively, if their ribs are becoming too prominent, you should work to the upper ends of the guidelines. Golden Retriever puppies have much smaller stomachs than adults. This means their daily food allowance should be split into smaller, more frequent meals. Rather than just feeding them once in the morning and once in the evening, as you might plan to do eventually, their food will need to be split into 3 or even 4 portions, like so: 8 — 12 weeks: 4 meals a day 3 — 6 months: 3 meals a day 6 — 12 months: 2 meals a day However, like the feeding charts, this should only be used as a guide. Feeding too much food at once can lead to cramping, vomiting, diarrhea, and discomfort for your puppy. How to Choose the Best Golden Retriever Puppy Food Puppies need a balance of certain nutrients and vitamins to support their growth — not just as much food as possible. In fact, simply giving as much food as possible is linked to certain joint-related health problems. So, when searching for a high quality puppy food, there are a few key ingredients you might want to search for. This includes a real meat source, and the correct amount of nutrients like calcium and iron. Commercial Food vs Homemade Food There are pros and cons to every type of puppy food available. Dry food is long-lasting and easy to use during training, but can contain filler ingredients. Wet food is palatable and easy to serve, but can be more expensive and harder to use during training. Homemade food is often very appealing in terms of taste for our dogs, but is the most likely type to contain nutritional imbalances that can lead to serious health problems. So, they will continue to grow and develop physically until somewhere between 12 and 18 months. You may want to transition your puppy to a new food when you bring them home, rather than whatever your breeder was giving them. Ideally, you want to make the change over the course of a week. Replace a very small amount of their old food with their new food at mealtimes. Over the week, you can change these amounts by decreasing their old food and increasing the new. By the end of the week, they will be eating only the new food. Changing abruptly can cause stomach upsets and symptoms like vomiting and diarrhea. But, Golden Retrievers should generally look lanky rather than chubby. But, the most successful rewards in this type of training are often food, such as kibble or small chunks or meat and cheese. Doing all of your training in the morning can lead to stomach upsets if your puppy ends up eating a large amount of their daily allowance all at once. Instead, try and complete shorter training sessions before each mealtime, and give whatever allowance is left for each meal after training is done. This can also benefit your training, as a hungry dog will be more motivated to work for those treats! We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We all want our golden retriever puppies to be healthy and happy. We envision them running through a verdant field chasing a ball. Full of energy with the beautiful, lustrous golden coat. But, just like us, eating the proper food in the proper amounts will help your golden properly grow and thrive. After all, what we eat impacts how healthy we are. How much you should feed your golden retriever puppy will vary depending on the quality of food you feed, his age, his weight, his general health, and his activity level. Your golden will be growing for up to two years. And the amount of food during that time will have to be adjusted depending on his needs. Because most people feed kibble to their pup, this article will focus on that. Kibble is convenient and cost effective. Instead, they should be lanky and full of energy. They should love to eat their food with gusto. Instead, you should be able to feel his ribs when you pet him there. There should just be a thin coating of fat under his skin. And he should have a defined waistline. Of course you should check with your veterinarian to make such adjustments. And remember a young puppy should get only so much exercise a day. Their joints and bones are developing and can be damaged if the exercise is too extreme. Assuming you have an eight-week-old puppy, he should receive three to four meals a day. From eight weeks old until about five or six months old, three meals per day are advisable. Of course, feed at the same intervals every day and split the total amount per day in half to be given at each feeding. After about six months of age through adulthood, two feedings per day are the norm. Always check with your vet regarding how much and how often to feed. These are just guidelines. Feed him at the same distraction-free location so that he focuses on eating. As much as goldens love to eat, a young golden puppy is also very easily distracted. This can lead to possible health problems, including joint and bone problems. Goldens can easily become overweight. Free feeding can also lead to a picky eater. Some puppies figure out that if their buffets are always there, and they can just go graze at will. Most foods you purchase will have guidelines on their bag or box. When you first get your puppy, feed him the same food that the breeder or rescue fed him for a few weeks. Then, if you want to change his food, do so over at least 10 days. Add more of the new food and subtract more of the old food each day. After about five days, you should be giving him approximately 50 percent of the new food and 50 percent of the old food. Switching food over such a period of time will help prevent stomach upsets and diarrhea. Overfeeding will result not only in him becoming overweight but it will also make him grow too fast. Periodically—even weekly— test whether you can still feel his ribs without them protruding. You can then increase the amount he eats. You should also feed his last meal of the day at least 90 minutes before his bed time so that he can digest his food and potty before bed. A well-balanced, high-quality food should provide all the nutrients he requires. Golden puppies require a formula made for large-breed dogs. Puppy formulas for large-breed dogs regulate their growth. Eating too quickly can lead to digestive upsets and even bloat, which can be deadly. I rescued my golden retriever Riley when he was about six months old. To say that he ate as if it were his last meal would be an understatement. He had a voracious appetite. I bought one of the maze bowls to slow him down. The kibble is placed between each section of the bowl, and he had to forage for his food. It worked! He ate at a more normal pace. Of course, dogs should be given free access to fresh water. Other Feeding Options Although I concentrated in this article on feeding kibble to your new puppy, there are other options. There are some drawbacks to them because they may not be nutritionally complete, may be cost prohibitive, or may be too time-consuming to make. Wet Food Canned food alone or mixed with kibble is an option. But wet food alone is very expensive. He may become a picky eater. Feeding raw is controversial. Dehydrated raw foods reduce some of the risks. The ratio of calcium to phosphorous is crucial to puppy development. Homemade Diet Cooking for your best friend can be very appealing. And many people do. You know what ingredients and their quality are. But it has its drawbacks. Of course, the amount you feed is important for his growth rate and general health and well-being. But there is no one-size-fits-all in determining how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. Any amounts you see are just guidelines. Adjust them as necessary regarding your own special puppy. Do you have a golden retriever puppy? How did you determine what and how much to feed him? Please leave your comments in the section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Debbie has been training dogs for over 24 years and has nationally ranked obedience and rally dogs, agility dogs, trick dogs, and therapy dogs. Post navigation. There is also info on how to keep your puppy and your adult at his or her optimum weight. Scroll down to find growth charts to make sure your puppy is growing at the proper rate and is within the right weight range for his age. If you are looking for information on what to feed, go to How to Choose a Dog Food. Unlike with human children, a puppy that is overfed will grow too fast before they grow too fat. A good example is where a smaller puppy at 10 weeks was overfed and his growth was compared to a puppy that was correctly fed. The growth of your puppy needs to be controlled. General Guidelines for Puppies Below are some general guidelines on how much to feed puppies. Most dog food bags suggest feeding too much. Increase to about 3 cups a day by 5 months for boys and by 6 months for girls. Golden Retrievers at this age are supposed to look lanky and all Golden Retrievers act like they are starving when fed the correct amount. If left to eat as much as they want, they will all grow too fast. In the wild, dogs do not have unlimited access to eat as much as they want. They work for their food. Caloric Needs Greatly Decrease at About a Year When puppies reach about months, their caloric needs begin to decrease. Some males might need 4 cups if active and are fed a less expensive food. Make sure you take into consideration the number of extra calories being fed as treats. You should be able to feel their ribs, but not see them even when the dog is wet. If you can see the ribs, increase their food. Decrease the food if you cannot feel them. I always tell people that it is better to underfeed than to overfeed, especially when feeding puppies. Weight Range Charts Following are charts of how puppies should generally grow in weight. Keep in mind that very few puppies need to be at the top of these ranges and if you cannot feel ribs, your dog is overweight even if she is in this weight range. If your dog is still a puppy and she is over these weight ranges, you are feeding her too much. Female Golden Retriever Weight Chart Here is a chart of how girls should generally grow in weight: 2 Months — pounds.

Eating, sleeping and staying warm are the three primary needs of puppies, and most of these are taken care of by their mother. It is important that newborn boxer puppies stay with their mother for the first eight weeks of their lives. In the first 24 to 36 hours of their lives, boxer puppies will be exposed to the colostrum in their mother's milk; it's important in them receiving lifesaving antibodies and nutrients. The average weight of a newborn boxer puppy is 1 pound, and during his first few weeks he will grow rapidly. At this time they will begin to play with litter-mates. At 4 weeks, boxer puppies can be introduced to wet commercial food, although they will still nurse as well. Introduce them to as many toys and sounds as possible, to allow them to adjust at a young age. Most newborn puppies are taken to the vet for the first time between 6 and 8 weeks of age, getting their first rounds of shots and having a general checkup. At 7 and 8 weeks, they are no longer nursing and are eating a mix of wet and dry puppy food. By this time they have become well-socialized and are on their way to being happy, trained pups. They can eat solid puppy food and begin to be house-trained. You can help your new boxer puppy adjust to his new home by bringing home some blankets or toys that smell like his litter-mates; these will remind him of his first few weeks of life. More Articles. As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. Puppies Boxer puppies are just adorable. Having a new boxer puppy at home is just overwhelming. But have you ever thought about the responsibilities you will have to handle and take care of? Besides, its not only about responsibility and taking care of your Boxer puppies, it about understanding their behavior in each development stages. Well, this article will help you in every way about Boxer puppies. The newborn puppies will only move to regulate their body temperature or when they are hungry. Newborn Boxer Puppy. Image Source — Blogspot. Newborn Boxers will not be able to hear, see or sense anything. Their eyes and ears will be closed until the end of week two. They will be unable to sense the human stimuli until they can see or hear. Neonatal stage is a very delicate stage for the puppies. Therefore, keep a close eye on Boxer puppies, whether they have been abandoned by its mother or littermates. If any puppy is abandoned, bottle feed them and keep them in a warm place. Or, it will die. Transitional Stage — 2 to 4 Weeks The transitional stage is a serious development stage. You can see your Boxer puppies opening their eyes and trying to wag their tails for the first time. Your Boxer puppies will also start walking a bit between two to three weeks. Image Source — Instagram. Baby Boxer will now want to explore the surroundings and will run around littermates jumping and growling. Socialization Stage — 4 to 12 Weeks Boxer puppies will start playing and running around the house with their littermates. They will be mischievous and may want your attention too. From the third and fourth weeks of their development, Boxer puppies will control their bowel movement as they move away from their whelping box. Many puppies will start having worms at this stage. And the mother Boxer may lose interest in cleaning her puppies excretion, having said that, you will have to take a step forward to clean the surroundings. This is the high time you socialize your puppy and give some basic training. By the eighth week, Boxer puppies will start being familiar with the surroundings and the people in the house as well. You should socialize the puppy with other animals as well as people around your neighborhood. A well-socialized puppy always defines a well-behaved dog. Otherwise, the Boxer puppies will try to dominate you. You should teach them the meaning of submission and dominance. From the starting of three months, your Boxer puppies will start feeling the independence and confidence in them. You should keep the training consistent as this is the very fragile time your Boxer puppy needs to learn. Furthermore, when they reach the age of four months old, you can send them to advance training classes. Adolescence — 6 to 18 Months Now your Boxer puppies are not puppies anymore, adolescence has now hit them. Your Boxer will now lose their puppy face completely and are now adult versions of themselves. Boxers will now lose their baby teeth and their second teething phase is likely to get started. During these months, your Boxers will grow stronger and more energetic. You should increase the training session according to their diet. Not a Puppy Anymore. The medium-sized breed tends to grow fast physically but their mind will still be a puppy until the end of the month. You should take care of their diet as well as their behavior. A well-trained puppy only grows as a well-behaved dog. Vaccination Chart For Boxers.

Learn more » The Pug has become one of the most popular dog breeds thanks to their quirky appearance and friendly attitude. This tiny breed does have some unusual habits that set it apart from other breeds and while some, unfortunately, are caused by their brachycephalic facial shape, some are behavior-based attributes. Among the traits that some people accuse the Pug of having is that they are lazy dogs that sleep a lot. You may notice it more because of the heavy breathing and snoring that tends to emanate from that squashed face. If your Pug is sleeping up to 14 hours a day, it is normal, but if yours is sleeping more than this, you may need to investigate to determine the cause and look for ways to remedy the problem. About The Pug Note Though the Pug is a popular breed, they unfortunately suffer from a plethora of health issues as a result of generations of selective breeding and therefore unfortunately have a lower quality of life when compared to other dog breeds. Veterinarians around the world are urging pet owners to not adopt the breed as their genetic shortcomings cannot be overcome by proper care and management alone. If you wish to adopt a Pug, please be mindful that they will most likely need extensive medical assistance throughout their life, which may include necessary reconstructive surgery. The Pug is a toy breed of companion dog. The breed has been developed to accompany their owner and provide companionship and has never been a working dog. The breed is known to be affectionate with family, will bond with visitors and even strangers, and they will usually get along with other dogs and potentially even cats. Because this is several hours a day longer than most people sleep, it can seem like Pugs spends their entire life snoozing. Puppies can sleep as long as 20 hours a day while senior Pugs may sleep for 15 or so hours a day. Although you can take some steps to reduce this a little, you need to ensure that your dog is getting enough sleep to recharge and stay healthy. Aim for about 12 hours of sleep a day. Top 6 Causes Of Excessive Sleeping If you determine that your Pug is sleeping more than 14 hours a day, take a look at the possible causes. Such causes include: 1. Boredom Pugs like fun and they enjoy spending fun time with their owners. If your Pug gets bored, one of their few options is to go to sleep in the hope of waking up to something more exciting. Try to introduce more playtime, offer a greater range of more exciting toys, and look for ways to provide stimulation that will keep your pup entertained. Image Credit: Piqsels 2. You should provide up to an hour a day of decent exercise, including walks and playtime. Make sure you provide two walks a day, of between 20 and 30 minutes each, and supplement this with some time playing with toys or playing games like hide and seek. Stick to an appropriate diet and if your Pug is really overweight, consult a vet so that they can advise you on the best next steps to shed the pounds and achieve a healthy weight. Image Credit: Tanya Dol, Shutterstock 4. Poor Diet Diet is as important to dogs as it is to any animal. Pugs do well on a high-quality dog food, whether commercially manufactured or home-prepared with the supervision and approval of a canine nutritionist or your veterinarian. Pugs like to follow their humans around and partake in some of the same activities. Determine how long you spend in front of the TV to see whether this could be the cause of your sedentary pup. Image Credit: Michelle Scott, Pixabay 6. Illness Some illnesses can cause lethargy and even fairly minor ailments can wipe a dog out, in the same way illness can leave us feeling jaded and in need of extra rest. Conclusion Pugs can be fun-loving, affectionate, and jaunty little pets that want to spend as much time as possible with us. While they do sleep for up to 14 hours a day and make a lot of noise while they are sleeping, they actually have similar sleeping habits to other breeds of dog. If yours is sleeping for longer than 14 hours a day, it may be worth investigating to determine the cause and changing habits to help achieve optimal sleeping habits. Pug Sleeping Habits Overview Just about any Pug owner will agree that this breed gets a bit of a bad rep in regard to sleep. The Pug is sometimes thought of as a lazy breed; a dog that takes over your favorite chair and sleeps his life away, snoring as if he doesn't have a care in the world. While it may be true that a Pug does tend to snore - and make a few other interesting noises - he does not sleep more than any other breed and he is not lazy at all. In fact, Pugs are super animated, very personable and eager canines that often are curious, emotional and expressive. They thrive on attention and tend to mimic their owner's mood and vibes. If you sleep a lot, your Pug is not going to pace around the room; he'll be right by your side. And if you're active, he'll want to be right there as well; in fact many Pugs need to have limitations set because they'll push themselves to far and can have overheating and breathing issues. One element that may make it seem as if a Pug sleeps a lot is that he is so obvious when he does it. Other dogs may retreat quietly away and an hour later, an owner may wonder 'where's my dog? In this section we are going to cover: How much Pug puppies should sleep Normal amounts of sleep for adults and seniors Reasons why a Pug may have trouble sleeping Things that may cause a Pug to sleep too much Common questions about Pug sleeping habits Emma, 20 months old, photo courtesy of Helen Gastaldo How Much Sleep is Normal for Pugs Newborns - Newborn Pug puppies - from 1 day old to 3 weeks - sleep just about all of the time, up to 22 hours per day. They will mainly only be awake to eat; after that's it's right back to bed, warm and safe next to the dam and littermates. The age of 3 weeks old is a huge turning point; at this time both hearing and vision are working well and with this comes a new found curiosity. A heightened interest in exploring his little world and for playing with siblings will cause the pup to stay awake a bit longer now. From 3 weeks to 8 weeks, a puppy will sleep anywhere from 20 to 21 hours per day. Puppies - Owners of new puppies often want to know how much Pug puppies sleep because they worry about the pup being overtired and perhaps sleeping too much and missing out on things. The first couple of months - age 2 months to 5 months - a Pug puppy will sleep from 18 to 20 hours per day. This includes both nighttime sleep and naps taken all throughout the day. This is a really funny stage, because often a Pug puppy will be so interested in his world that he struggles to stay awake. It's not uncommon for a Pug to zonk out in the middle of playing or even eating, resting his head on the rim of the bowl because he just couldn't make it to his bed. Each month that the Pug matures, he will sleep a bit less and stay awake for longer periods. By 6 months old, many Pugs are on the sleeping schedule of adults. Adults - Adult Pug dogs sleep roughly 14 per day. There are some reasons for sleeping less or more discussed ahead. This may seem like a lot - especially when compared to how much we get- however most of this will be done at night. When you subtract 8 or 9 hours of nighttime snoozing from the average of 14, this leaves 5 to 6 hours of on-and-off again naps. The amount of naps will depend on how much the Pug sleeps at night and most will shadow what their owners do. It's very common for this breed to start getting tuckered out when lights are dimmed and their humans are relaxing before bed. It's typical for a Pug to drift off about an hour before his human family; he'll try to hang on but will conk out as the house quiets down and everyone is relaxing. Then, most will pop right awake as soon as the alarm goes off of if they sense that their human has awoken. It's rare for a Pug to stay sleeping in the morning while everyone starts their day. Since canines - like us- need a good amount of deep REM sleep, if they do follow their owner's sleep schedule of 8 hours a night, this leaves a good 6 or so hours that will be napped away during the day. And if an owner is only sneaking in 6 or 7 hours with the Pug following suit, this makes for a lot more napping of up to 7 or 8 hours during the day. So, how much you actually see your Pug snoozing will depend a lot of your own schedule and whether or not you are home with your dog or are away at work or school. Seniors - As a dog ages, there are many changes… decreased metabolism, a slowing down that reduces activity, etc. These are gradual changes, so you may not notice that your Pug sleeps an extra 20 minutes or so; but as the years pass, this adds up to falling asleep an hour earlier than usual and it is then that it really becomes apparent. When a Pug Has Trouble Sleeping With puppies, it can take a while for puppies to accept their schedule; many may seem downright nocturnal, making you wonder if somehow an owl was crossed in the Pug's bloodline. It takes a couple of months for a pup to understand the cues of a day winding down and feeling isolated can cause a puppy to stay awake whining or barking at night. For those of any age, this breed will show appreciation for many of the care elements you provide and often won't be shy at all to announce when things are not right. Here are the top reasons why a Pug may not be sleeping as good as usual: 1: Quality of the bed - Choosing the right bed for your Pug is important for this breed that tends to have hips and back issues. Keep in mind that beds do not last forever; after 4 years or so, cushions can lose buoyancy and won't be as supportive as they once were. Also, a puppy may be outgrowing his smaller bed and seniors may a thicker mattress to better support aching joints. This has a base of 2-inch medical-grade memory foam, water-proof inner and outer fabric, and a cover that is resistant to mold and dust mites and washable. Pugs need a good place to rest but still like to be close to the 'action' so that - if they happen to prefer it, they can join in. While it is a good idea to give your Pug his own space - especially if you want him to get used to that area for when home alone - it should in a quiet corner of an familiar room that is used by the family such as the living room or den. Some owners may move a Pug's sleeping area further away if the dog snores loudly or is otherwise causing a disruption; however, a compromise should be made so that a Pug doesn't feel quarantined. Additionally, any chronic snoring noises should be evaluate by the vet for possible stenotic nares, elongated palate and other issues common to brachycephalic breeds. Drafts, which can cause interrupted sleep, are common near windows and doors, but can also be found hear exterior walls. Keep in mind that any cold spots may only be near the floor, so you may want to get down to your Pug's level to access things. With sleep apnea, a dog will stop breathing for 10 to 20 seconds, repeatedly throughout the night. While some stay asleep, many will gasp and wake up. This can cause sleep deprivation, which often manifests as troubled, moody behavior the next day. Reasons a Pug May Sleep Too Much Dogs will vary the amount of time that they sleep by an hour or so, just like humans. However, whenever there is a marked increase in how much a Pug is sleeping this is reason to take note. Possible reasons include: Mimicking- As we touched on a bit earlier, this breed is notorious for copying his owner. Even if you don't sleep much, if you spend a lot of time watching TV or zoning out with video games, etc. After all, very few Pugs will run around and stay super active if the owner is plopped on the sofa, aside from young puppies that may have high energy levels. Lack of Stimulation - If a dog has nothing better to do, he'll often do one of two things: bark or sleep. This breed often chooses the later and you really can't blame him. Dogs need interaction, challenges, sights to see and scents to smell! It's best for a Pug to have a fun session of command training after dinner, be taken for a late evening walk and have some interactional playtime as opposed to just lazing around. A dog's world is as small or as large as you allow it to be. If a Pug is kept at home without much going on, he's going to sleep more. If he's taken to different places, goes on new walking routes, is challenged by learning new commands, etc. Illness or Injury - Any time that a dog suddenly sleeps much more than normal, this is a red flag that there may be a medical condition. For puppies that appear to be suddenly weak and dizzy, this is a possible sign of hypoglycemia, most often seen in those 2 to 5 months old. With adults, any condition that causes the body to fight off disease or caused discomfort will make a dog sleep more. If you notice that your Pug is sleeping much more than usual, you cannot attribute it to any of the issues mentioned above and it lasts for longer than 3 days, this is your signal that it's time for a vet visit, even if there are no other symptoms. I'd swear my Pug does dream, he moves around and even seems to mumble. His eyes move around under his lids too when he's asleep. A: Yes, absolutely. Studies have proven that dogs do dream and quite often. They have eye twitching, lip movements and even vocalizations that you wrote about that point to REM sleep. REM sleep is the phase of deep sleep when dreams occur. It is believed that dogs and other animals can have complex dreams full of memories of actual events. So that's pretty cool; our Pugs are most likely having dreams about us. Q: Should my Pug sleep in my bed? Aside from hogging the mattress is there anything wrong with it? Would it be interpreted as spoiling? A: While you'll want to hold off until your Pug is housebroken, there's nothing inherently wrong with a Pug sleeping in his owner's bed. There are some cons, however. Due to heavy shedding you'll have to be prepared for how much fur may end up on your sheets, blankets and pillows. Also, know that once your Pug is allowed to sleep in your bed, that spot is claimed. Also, if an owner is currently single, some thought should go into the future when someone else may want the other side of the bed. Q: Is it okay for Pugs to sleep on their backs? My Pug will fall asleep, belly up, and his paws up in the air. It's pretty comical but I'm wondering if this can cause breathing problems or anything else? A: While this is not the 'normal' canine way of lying down to sleep, a small percentage of dogs do sleep this way. If your Pug finds that sleeping on his back is the optimal position for him and he must if he's doing it , this might actually be his way of breathing better at night. When curled up, this constricts the neck and makes breathing a bit more difficult. But if a Pug naturally lies on his back, neck extended back, this will open up the windpipe and may offer him better airflow though the nasal passages. Q: Is it normal for a Pug to sleep with his mouth open? My Pug does this and kind of drools while he's sleeping. A: Being a brachycephalic breed, Pugs are prone to stenotic nares, which essentially means narrowed nostrils. This can make it hard for a Pug to breathe correctly out of his nose. Excessive drooling while sleeping is a possible sign of sleep apnea. And snoring is a sign as well. But, with that said, if your Pug seems fine otherwise and the drooling is not too bad, it's nothing to be concerned with. Did you find this article helpful? You may also like: Pug Dog Separation Anxiety - Effective ways to help your Pug cope when home alone, whether you are gone for just a couple of hours or for the day. Pug Paw Care - The paws are an often overlooked area of the body, but one that should not be ignored. Read tips to keep your Pug's paws in good shape and help for treatment of common paw issues. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Pugs puppies from 3 — 8 weeks will sleep anywhere around 20 hours per day. Adult Pugs will sleep 14 hours a day and that is a lot more than other active dogs. It may sound this breed does nothing but sleep, most of it occurs at night. Basically, it comes down to how you raise them and the amount of attention you give them. If you choose to sit around watching television all day, this breed will be happy sleeping on your lap. Check out these playpens for Pugs to help increase their activity level. Pug Puppies: Just like babies, your new pup will require more sleep at this stage in their life. This includes the hours they sleep at night and the short cat naps they take throughout the day. Adult Pugs: At this stage in life, this breed can sleep up to 14 hours per day. At this point in their life, their metabolism slows down and they just want to spend their days lying around. Where Do Pugs Sleep? It basically comes down to a personal preference on where you want Fido to sleep. Read this article to find out whether Pugs can see in the dark and if they need a night light. Their Own Bed: Mindy had her own pet bed and this is where she slept and took all her naps. Dogs who are crate trained start thinking about their crate as their own little private den. Do Pugs Sleep A Lot? The short answer is it depends. Adult Pugs have a tendency to sleep quite a bit, especially if you are not keeping them active. If your Pug sleeps all day, then it might have to do with your current lifestyle. This breed tends to mimic their owners behavior. Of course, if you have an active lifestyle and your Pugs sleeping day and night, you may want to contact your veterinarian to find out if their are any underlying healthy concerns. Can Pugs Sleep Outside? This toy breed is an inside dog and should not be left outside for long periods of time. Because of their short noses, they are extremely sensitive to cold, humidity, and heat. They should never be left outdoors unattended for long periods of time. We realized that Mindy loved sleeping outside, she slept on the mulch in our garden. However, she had access to a pet door to come back in when she got tired of being outside. If your Pug loves sleeping outside, make sure they can get back inside. Leaving them outside by themselves can be dangerous and you could end up coming home to a dead Pug. Pugs with this sleep apnea may temporarily stop breathing, which causes them to wake up throughout the night. This can cause them to feel tired and groggy throughout the day. Mindy had a small case of insomnia when she gained a lot of excess weight. It eventually went away when her diet helped her shed those unwanted pounds. Insomnia: This occurs when your dog has trouble falling asleep or constantly wakes up throughout the night. Insomnia is usually a sign of a bigger problem, such as an illness, an injury or anxiety. If you spend a lot of time watching television, working on the computer, playing video games and etc, then your Pug has nothing better to do but sleep. If your pooch is just lounging around and sleeping all day, it could be a sign that they need more attention. You can improve their quality of life by getting them a companion or spending more time with them. Start taking them for short walks in the morning or the late afternoons. How Do Pugs Sleep? This breed loves their sleep and a few times we caught Mindy sleeping sitting up. At first, we thought she was watching TV, but she was actually sleeping! Here are some of the other awkward positions and what they mean. When Mindy was young, she loved sleeping on her back like a puppy. As she got older, she slept half on and half off of her bed. On Their Back, Paws in the Air Pug sleeping on back When a dog sleeps curled in a ball, it helps them conserve energy. When your Pug sleeps on their back with their belly exposed, they are trying to cool off. Their bellies have less fur and their paws hold sweat glands, and when they are exposed, it helps them keep cool while sleeping. It may not look comfortable to you and me, but this position indicates a dog is very comfortable because they are leaving their most vulnerable areas exposed. If your Pug is more active during their sleep, it means that they are in the REM stage of their sleep. Movement during their sleep is more common among puppies and senior dogs. Because it allows them to get take a quick nap and get back on their feet quickly. Pug puppies are very active, especially, if they live with other dogs or cats. Half On And Half Off Their Bed Pug dog sleeping When Mindy entered her senior years, we started noticing her awkward sleeping position of lying half on and half off her bed. We had no clue what it meant, but soon realized that she started sleeping this way due to the aches and pains in her body. Related Questions Why do pugs like to sleep under covers? Smaller dogs like to burrow themselves under the covers because it acts like shelter. If you let your dog sleep with you on a regular basis, your bed represents their shelter or den. Read this article to find out why dogs sleep under the covers. Your bed has become their happy place and crawling under the blankets represents the inner sanctum of their den and it is the safe place to be. They will spend most of their day playing and take short naps throughout the day. How Long Do Pugs Sleep? A normal healthy adult Pug will sleep around hours, depending on your lifestyle. My Pug Sleeps All Day. .It most likely has to do with the fact that your Pug is bored, especially, if they are younger. The required amount of sleep will vary by breed, however, most adult dogs will sleep around hours. If you feel that they are sleeping too much and are not dealing with any health issues. Then take a look at your life. Remember, this breed is known to mimic their owners. You May Also Like. Is It Normal? Your pug is probably just… being a pug. These dogs require up to 14 hours of sleep daily, even as adults. The amount of sleep your pug needs will depend on his or her age. Whilst newborns seem to do nothing else, even adult pugs can often be seen to spend a lot of time snoozing. Newborns up to 3 weeks Sleeping hours: up to 22 hours per day Newborn Pugs sleep: What is normal? Sleep most of the day near mother and littermates Awake just for eating 2. Younger puppies 3 to 8 weeks Sleeping hours: hours per day Younger puppies sleep: What is normal? Will spend more time exploring Will stay awake a bit longer 3. Older puppies 2 to 5 months Sleeping hours: hours per day Older puppies sleep: What is normal? Sleep time split between nighttime and daytime naps Active puppies wear themselves out and sometimes fall asleep anywhere and everywhere 4. Adult Pugs 6 months to 9 years old Sleeping hours: 14 hours per day approximately Adult Pugs sleep: What is normal? By 6 months most pups transition to adult sleeping hours Depending on how much your pug sleeps during the night, they might take multiple naps throughout the day Pugs shadow their owners so will try to stay up with you but might not quite make it 5. Senior Pugs 9 years old plus Sleeping hours: 20 minutes to 1 hour more sleep than adults Senior Pugs sleep: What is normal? Decreased metabolism and reduced activity levels means your senior pug might need an extra hour of sleep This change with happen gradually Why Do Pugs Sleep So Much? Pugs sleep a lot. If your pug is sleeping between 10 and 14 hours per day, this is completely normal and need not cause any concern. Young pugs and senior pugs often sleep even more than this. Why is it that pugs sleep oh-so-much? They are boring Your pug might just be plain-old bored. This is a very common cause of oversleeping amongst pugs. When your pooch has nothing better to do they are more likely to snooze away the hours until something fun comes along to catch their interest. Think of your pug a bit like a teenager. Boredom equals laziness. They need constant distraction. But there are things you can do to keep your pug occupied and stimulated throughout the day. What can I do about it? Boredom is a very common problem that most owners struggle with from time to time. Try preparing some fun activities ahead of time. Here are a few ideas to get you started. They usually consist of a ball that gradually releases treats as the dog plays with it. Interactive toys: These days there are even interactive toys that let owners schedule playtime throughout the day. These toys are great for keeping your pug fit and on their feet. They can be synced to a mobile phone, letting you schedule regular play throughout the day remotely. Invest in Doggy Daycare: Doggy Daycare is another great option. Most towns or cities will have a local pet sitter or day care center. If you can afford it, this is a super way to avoid your pug falling into sedentary habits at home alone. Lack of exercise This is another big problem amongst pugs and their owners. Pugs will not develop good habits by themselves. Pugs need motivation to get moving. Establish a daily exercise routine: Head outside daily with your pooch. Walk them 40 minutes a day, you can break down the routine into 2 sessions to avoid any heat problems in Pugs. Hide-and-Seek: Did you know that pugs are great at hide-and-seek? Try playing fetch: Pugs may not be known for their fetching prowess but try getting creative and see what happens. Encourage your pug to run uphill and retrieve their favorite toy or ball. Mix things up with different games, locations, and toys, to keep your pug engaged and on the move. Attention: As brachycephalic dogs , they will need time to rest between bursts of activity. Obesity Another reason to exercise your pug is to keep them at healthy body weight. Pugs are prone to becoming overweight easily. If your pug is already on the heavier side, they will find exercise difficult. This could be why they are sleeping more or spending most of the day sedentary. Unfortunately, this will only make the problem worse. Book a health check: If you think your pug is overweight visit your local veterinarian for an overall doggy health check. They will check for hypothyroidism — a condition that leads to weight gain. Start a diet: Once any health problems have been ruled out by your vet they will recommend an appropriate dietary plan to get your pug back in tip-top shape. Avoid low-quality dog food, and try to limit treats. This will only make them unmotivated, and prone to sleeping far too much. Switch to high-quality kibble with natural ingredients and fewer additives. High-quality food will improve their health and offer them the nutrients they need to turn calories into useful energy. Limit treats: Try not to give in to those pleading eyes. Some treats are fine but keep them to a minimum. Make sure treats are healthy and nutritious as well as tasty. Brace yourself. In other words, pugs like to mimic their human family. Lead by example: Make an effort to engage with your pug every time you get up off the couch. Pugs mimic their humans. Just a few minutes of interaction here and there is enough to give your pug that much-needed energy boost and get them moving those paws. Illness Why do pugs sleep so much? Well, if your pup has been unwell or recently injured, it is entirely normal that they will need extra sleep to recoup and recover. Is there a change from normal? If you think your pug might not be feeling their best, the best thing you can do is book an appointment with your veterinarian. Your vet will probably run tests to rule out any more serious illnesses. Do as your vet instructs and let your pug rehabilitate with plenty of care and time to sleep. When does a lot of sleep go from normal to excessive? Changing sleep habits Look out for change. This is especially important when it comes to sleep, and is often one of the first things a vet will ask when concerned owners bring in their pug for a check-up. This will help you know when something is not quite right and support their health and wellbeing. For example, a pug that usually takes a 2-hour nap each morning is no cause for concern. But if a pug that usually takes a 2-hour nap, starts taking 4 or 5-hour naps on a regular basis, you will want to think about visiting your vet for a check-up. Waking up slowly Another warning sign to look out for is how your pug wakes up after sleeping. Dogs naturally wake up quickly, stretch, and get on with their day. Exercise intolerance Exercise intolerance is not simply laziness. Some diseases tire dogs out. As a result, they will appear to have much less energy than they normally would. It is sometimes difficult to notice any obvious sign of distress when your pup just seems to be resting. But they might be resting because of illness. Warning signs include resting in strange or unusual places, increased resting, and heavy panting. Yes, pugs will enjoy snoozing alongside their owners. Pugs display mimicking behaviors. This breed loves to keep close to their owners as much as possible. Is it normal for a pug puppy to sleep a lot? Pug adults sleep a lot, but pug puppies are on a whole other level. Newborns can sleep up to 22 hours per day and puppies will continue sleeping between 18 and 20 hours until approximately 5 months old. Why do pugs sleep so much? As a breed, they just need those extra hours of zees. But for a toy breed like the Pug, how much is too much? Many Pug owners find themselves worrying that their dog spends way too much time in dreamland and not enough time playing and socializing. Do Pugs sleep more than other dogs? What is considered normal and at what point should you be concerned? Why does my Pug sleep so much? Sleeping between 10 — 14 hours a day is completely normal behavior for a Pug. Knowing how much sleep is normal for a Pug may put your mind at ease. But if your Pug has an unusual affinity for sleep and is dozing his life away, some changes are called for. The norm for most breeds is 10 hours, so a Pug typically sleeps just a bit more than the average dog. Depending on your sleeping habits, the majority of these hours will be during the night while you too are sleeping. So, if you average 9 hours of sleep each night, chances are that your Pug does too. Nine hours or so of nocturnal sleep mean that for the majority of the next day, your Pug should be awake and active, only catching a few naps here and there. Some owners find that this is indeed the case. Is that normal? You may not want to hear this, but the problem often lies with the owner. Cause: Boredom This is the number one cause of snoozing away the daylight hours. Your poor Pug simply has nothing better to do. Picture the following for a moment. No cell phone, computer, books, or TV. Nothing to engage you or hold your interest. You guessed it. The same thing happens to Pugs frequently. When they are left with nothing better to do, sleep is the only appealing option. Granted, many dog owners must head off to work for the majority of the day, leaving their four-legged buddy home alone without much to keep him alert and occupied and awake. Treat-dispensing ball toy — As your dog rolls, chews, and pounces on the ball, several treats are released to encourage more playtime. Interactive fitness robot — With this toy, you can schedule interactive play at certain times throughout the day right from your phone. Enlist help — Arrange for a friend or family member to drop by once or twice per day to take your little sleepyhead out for a short walk. No friends available? Try booking a professional dog walker on sites such as Rover or Wag. Doggy daycare — Chances are that there is at least one privately run daycare for dogs near you. If not, consider hiring a pet sitter to come by daily and spend a few hours interacting with your dog. Cause: Too Little Exercise Habits form easily. It takes motivation and encouragement to get you up and moving, right? The same is true for your Pug. Head out there with him and engage him in some fun activities. Get creative to hold his interest and make exercise fun. At the very least, establish the habit of going for a couple of short walks each day. Head out in a different direction every so often to keep things interesting. Cause: Obesity Pugs are a breed particularly prone to obesity. Guess what inactive pugs spend their time doing. Sleeping — which only makes the issue of obesity worse. Your vet can recommend an appropriate diet plan and exercise regimen to help your Pug shed some pounds and regain mobility. If your Pug is filling up on junk, he may not be getting enough required nutrients to keep him active and energetic. The result? A constantly tired, lethargic Pug. Not good. Solution Feed the highest quality kibble that you can afford so that your Pug will receive the necessary nutrients that he needs to convert food into energy and get off of that couch. Make sure that each bite of food he eats is nutrient-rich, not loaded with unneeded fat, sugar, and calories. If you spend hours at a time relaxing in the family room, your Pug is likely to be right by your side relaxing too i. Solution If your Pug is going to mimic your behavior, and he will, set a good example by moving around frequently throughout the day. Solution If you suspect that your Pug may not be feeling well, a trip to the veterinarian is in order. Your vet can run tests to diagnose the problem and get your Pug started on the road to recovery. Related Posts:. A year-old pug will require around 12 hours of sleep every night. If your pup wakes up in the middle of the night and starts barking or whining, it probably means they need to go outside. Pug puppies tend to sleep even more than adult pugs. A newborn pug puppy usually sleeps about 18 hours every day. Pug Sleeping Reasons 1. Mimicking their masters Pugs are well known for their ability to mimic the behavior of their human masters. They will eat simultaneously, walk in the same stride and even sleep in the same positions. If you always curl up with your Pug on your lap, then they will do the same when they think that no one is watching. Suffering from stress or anxiety Pugs are compassionate creatures, and their human moods very easily influence them. If your Pug suffers from stress or anxiety, they may go to sleep to escape the problem. This can be triggered by changes in routine or anything that causes tension. If you find that your Pug sleeps excessively, you should speak to your vet about the best way of reducing their stress. Lack of exercise This is one of the leading causes of canine sleep disorders, and it is often overlooked. Pugs are gentle creatures by nature, but they need to participate in the exercise. They have a high energy level, and if this is not satisfied, they will find other ways to spend their time. It may not be a problem in the summer when they can spend hours chasing insects in the garden, but if you cannot take them out during colder weather, they will look for alternative ways to burn off their energy. Pug sleeping problems can often be solved by giving them more exercise, but they should balance their need to rest. There is no danger in them drinking too much, but it may cause them to sleep for long periods. Old age As with any breed, Pugs get older and suffer from different ailments that can cause them to sleep for more extended periods at a time. Older dogs need less exercise and often sleep more than their younger counterparts. Medical problems As with any breed, Pugs are prone to some medical issues. If they suffer from a severe condition, they may sleep for extended periods as a coping mechanism. Pugs are beautiful animals that will offer years of love and affection. If you find that your Pug is excessively tired, there may be reasons behind it. By identifying the problem, you can choose the best course of action, and your Pug can continue to enjoy a happy and healthy lifestyle. Caring for a Pug sleeping schedule: Pugs tend to sleep in the same spot all the time, by your feet or on your lap. You should make sure that their sleeping spot is clean to avoid skin or fur issues. Please do not disturb them when they are sleeping, or they will be startled. Do not allow other animals to disturb their sleeping habits, as they can become territorial over a good spot. Avoid loud noises or sudden movements around the Pug when napping during the day because it will mess with their sleep cycle. It is usual for a Pug to whine, grunt, or walk around when sleeping. Please do not wake up a Pug in deep sleep because it can be dangerous for their health. If your Pug is sleepwalking, ensure that you are not blocking them from a clear path to their potty spot. Pugs are also known to sleep talk, whistle, and snore, depending on how deep they sleep. Please do not allow children to disturb the sleeping habits of a Pug, as it can be hazardous. Yes, Pugs do have REM. This is because they are dogs and all dogs including Pugs have REM. REM is a sleep stage characterized by rapid eye movements and dreaming. Do Pugs suffer insomnia? Yes, Pugs can suffer from insomnia. They may also be more prone to getting sick because they cannot fight off infection. Owners of pugs should make sure their pet gets plenty of exercise and try to establish a regular sleep schedule. If your Pug has trouble sleeping, talk to your vet about possible solutions. How long do Pugs sleep at night? On average, Pugs sleep for around 14 hours per day. This varies slightly depending on the Pug, but 14 hours is right for the average dog. They tend to have two distinct periods of sleep — one during the day and one at night. Conclusion People who own pugs often joke that their dog is always sleeping. Post navigation. These dogs tend to sleep more than other breeds. They even snore, snort and make some weird noises that may sound ridiculous to you. Some might say they are lazy. But, Pugs are not lazy. They are interactive creatures that enjoy playing at any time. Yet, these dogs are curious and emotional, striving for your attention most of the time. Learn about your Pug sleeping habits to understand their health better. In this article, I will have answers to some questions about the sleeping habits of Pugs. The sleeping time of Pugs varies on their age: Pug Newborns Baby Pugs need a lot of sleep for their growth. On average, a newborn Pug can sleep up to 22 hours a day. They only wake up to eat and go to the bathroom. From the third week and on, Pug newborn pups will grow as their vision and hearing develop. So does their curiosity. Pug puppies at this stage will spend time playing with their littermates and exploring their world. Once the Pug puppies open the eyes, they will reduce their sleeping hours to 20 to 22 hours a day. Pug Puppies In the first couple of months, Pug puppies will sleep in between 18 to 20 hours. They spend the rest of the time eating and exploring their world. From 3 weeks old, the puppies will roam around their area, hopping on their paws, sniffing, and chewing. From 6 months old, the pup will sleep like an adult Pug. Adult Pugs Pugs from 6 months old sleep even less. They spend more time socializing, exploring the world, and shadowing you. They will sleep roughly around 14 hours a day; that includes nighttime snoozing of hours. During the day, Pugs spend around hours napping after being in high gear. Senior Pugs Old Pug dogs need extra hours to rest as they reduce activities. During the day, a senior Pug may nap more than when they were young. In particular, they may fall asleep earlier than they used to. A puppy Pug can sleep for more than 20 hours. Your Pug sleep habits may differ from others. But when compared to other breeds, Pugs sleep much more. Usually, a healthy Pug spends 9 hours for his nocturnal sleep. But if the Pug adapts to your sleeping hours, they may go to bed and wake at the same time as you do. Then, in the daytime, the dog may snuggle on the couch and catch a few naps for some hours. This is entirely normal. Pugs sleep more than enough. There are a variety of reasons for oversleeping in Pugs. If your grown Pug naps more than 5 hours a day, this can be a problem. Pugs demand a lot of attention from you. They need you around to spend up their energy. If a Pug falls into boredom, he will nap to wait for you. Sleeping this much is not healthy. That said, Pugs are not dogs to be left alone. They tend to sleep through the lonely hours. You can invest in some automatic interactive toys. But without your participation, Pugs are unlikely to get up. However, be aware. This could result in inside destruction. Alternatively, ask help from a friend or a relative to drop by twice a day. Daycare dog service: This kind of service will walk your dog hours a day and play with the pup if you are busy Fitness robot : This toy is a bit costly but may worth it as it keeps your Pug interactive without your presence. You can schedule the time for the bot to run and trigger your dog to play. Ball dispenser : This auto-dispenser can be a playmate for the Pug. But make sure you train your dog to use the machine before putting it to work. Obesity Obesity can make Pugs more sedentary. Without much exercise, an overweight Pug tends to sleep more to deal with the boredom. Also, you will get consulted on the exercises appropriate for an obese Pug. Low to no exercises Being lazy and not exercising is a bad habit which you should not form at the beginning of his young life. Instead, it would be best if you encouraged your Pug dog to romp and play rather than lounging on the sofa. Pugs are dogs that love to make their owner happy. That means you are the motivation. So, take the fetch to the backyard and start a game. Poor Diet Like people, Pugs become weak when consuming low-quality food, too many treats, and excessive fatty foods. Feed your Pug with high-quality food recipes for Pugs. As Pugs are prone to obesity, you should consider low fat, sugar, and calorie food. Mirroring As a part of the shadowing habit, Pugs tend to mimic you in the sleeping routine. That means, if you sleep, the pooch will drift off with you. So, if your sleeping schedule is chaotic, that will apply to your Pug too. Solution: This can be an advantage when your Pug tries to mirror you. Be awake during the day to play with your Pug. Play with him and help him use up his energy while giving him attention. Then, you can allow him to nap for an hour or so. Then, repeat the playtime. Sickness Sleeping is an integral part of healing. So, no wonder why Pugs, or any dog, would sleep through if they get sick. However, you should keep an eye on your Pug pup and wake him up on his mealtime. Your Pug also needs to be up to visit the vet and take medicine. Solution: A visit to your animal clinic is a must when your Pug is not feeling well. While under-recovery, your Pug needs a lot of time to rest, let him sleep, and wake him up for food. Pug Sleeping Troubles While some Pugs sleep soundly while dreaming at night, others struggle to sleep. Some owners find their puppy Pugs stay awake and howl out of isolation. Many of them feel insecure in a new home. However, other Pugs are awake and whine because they have enough sleep all day. Other than that, there are several care elements involved in Pug sleeping troubles. Bad bed The fact is Pugs are prone to hips and back issues. More than that, choose a bed that resists mold and dust mites. This helps your Pug sleep without disturbance. Besides, temperature changes also cause your Pug to lose sleep. Respiratory problem Breathing problems are common in Pugs due to their flat-wrinkled face. But with sleep apnea, a Pug will stop breathing for up to 20 seconds. This causes sleep deprivation. This leads to health troubles and misbehavior in the long run. The REM stage is a deep sleep where dogs may dream. However, Pugs are not heavy sleepers. Why do Pugs Snore in their Sleep? That affects the construction of the nostril, making it hard for the air to flow. Lethargy in Pugs? What is it? They could be sleepy, or they could be sick. But if you notice that your Pug sleeps through the day and lacks appetite, he is probably ill. Do Pugs Suffer Insomnia? When Pugs are restless at night, that means they have insomnia. The reasons vary from changes in the environment, diet, illness to uncomfortable bedding. If you want to know the source of insomnia in your Pug, take some time to observe. A healthy Pug should sleep well at night and nap during the day. But if your Pug is struggling to fall asleep, you should: Address the underlying cause Make sure she gets enough exercise during the day Supply melatonin. Pugs are a naturally sleepy bunch. So, how long do Pugs sleep on average? They sleep up to 22 hours, usually in one to two hours bursts. They are also highly dependent on mother Pug during the first eight weeks and will most likely open their eyes for the first time after two weeks. The newborn Pug puppies with their flowers sleep soundly. It is critical to provide a warm and comfortable sleeping environment for your newborn Pug and to check on them frequently to ensure their safety and comfort. Puppy Pugs Months Pugs will require less sleep as they mature and become more active. Puppy Pugs typically sleep 18 to 20 hours daily and spend their waking hours socializing with one another and other household members. A happy pug smiles Establishing a consistent sleep schedule for your Pug at this age is critical because it will help them develop healthy sleep habits that will last their entire lives. A schedule is also essential at this stage because puppy Pugs are extremely curious. Adult Pugs 9 months to 9 years Adult Pugs will typically sleep for hours per day. While this may appear to be a lot, it includes daytime and nighttime sleeping hours. The Pug sits comfortably on a pillow. Ensure you continue providing a consistent sleep schedule and a comfortable environment for your Pug during this stage of its life. As a result, senior Pugs frequently sneak in an extra hour or two of sleep, bringing their total sleep time to up to 16 hours. The Pug is being combed. Pugs generally sleep around 14 hours a day. Senior Pugs, for example, require an extra 20 minutes of sleep on top of the standard 14 hours because their reduced metabolism necessitates more rest and recovery. As they get older, these extra 20 minutes turn into an hour of extra sleep, and so on. The two Pugs stand together and look confused. Pug puppies, on the other hand, are still growing and have a high metabolism, so they may require slightly less sleep. If your Pug is sleeping longer than usual , it could be because they are getting older. Poor Diet Pugs are naturally predisposed to weight gain. As a result, they require a well-balanced diet rich in high-quality protein, complex carbohydrates, and healthy fats to maintain their health, healthy weight, and energy levels. Pug having a meal in an elevated bowl. Failure to provide them with such a nutritious diet leads to them becoming overweight and lacking the energy to run around. As a result, they become couch potatoes who spend most of their waking hours snoozing. Aside from excessive sleeping, a poor diet can cause several health problems, including obesity and hip dysplasia. If your Pug is sleeping more than usual, consider reviewing their diet and making any necessary changes. Activity Level Pugs have low-to-medium energy levels; they prefer sitting and eating to running around, but they will gladly oblige if you take them for a walk or engage them in some exercise. However, if you leave your Pug unexercised for an extended period, it will become sluggish and sleep more than usual. Pug actively plays at the park. On the other hand, if you get them to exercise excessively, they will become tired and sleep more. Owner Habits Pugs are highly social animals who thrive on structure and routine. So create a consistent sleep schedule for your Pug and make sure they get enough interaction and mental stimulation from you during the day. Illness or injury If your Pug is in pain or discomfort due to an illness or injury, it may sleep excessively to rest and recover. If you suspect your Pug is sick or injured, you should see your veterinarian as soon as possible. A Pug looks sad on the floor. Pugs, as previously stated, are naturally heavy sleepers. Pugs, as a flat-faced dog breed, are more prone to sleep disorders like sleep apnea and restless leg syndrome, making it difficult to catch some sleep. A Pug looks up to his new owner! As stated, this breed is highly social and bonds closely with its owners. Still, providing a consistent sleep schedule and a comfortable sleeping environment for your Pug throughout its life is critical. Are you a Pug parent or an aspiring one? Browse our website for more Pug tips and topics. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Click here to add your own text and edit me. Welcome to the Sergeant's Boxers website! Thank you for stopping by! We are Cassie and Luke! First off, Boxers are the absolute best family members imaginable. Luke and I gained our first boxer family member in .From the very beginning, we were hooked! We then gained our newest addition, Diva and boy does her name fit her well! We were overjoyed with our family fur-members and wanted to provide joy to other families. That is when we decided we wanted to breed Boxers and bring love and happiness to other families, just as our Boxers brought love and happiness into ours. Our family continued to grow, as did our happiness and joy! We now have 8 boxers and one spayed boxer mix. All are our fur-kids come first and foremost! Diva and Sergeant had their first litter in .Since then, we have learned so much about the breed and about producing healthy puppies. A lot of thought and research goes into each and every breeding. In the early part of , we started showing. This was such a new experience for us, but we enjoyed it so very much! Bailey was our first girl to show and she had a blast! Her face would light up when trotting around the ring. She obtained her International and National Champion Title that weekend and we were so very proud of her! Remington and Diva were a little hesitant at first, but ended up doing very well by the end of the weekend. By the 4th run, they were so excited to get out there and perform! They ran their hearts out and smiled while doing so. It also helped that daddy was there the second day and waiting at the finish line for them : Captain and Benelli went to their first show in June of .Benelli was just 3 months old and competed in the baby class. She did so very well! She gained great ratings that first day and caught the eyes of everyone there! Captain also did very well! He strutted around the ring and smiled the entire time! It was not hard to see that this was something he enjoyed so very much! We couldn't wait to get them back out there for the next show! In September of , we went to 2 shows! The first show was a UKC show. Captain and Bailey competed and had a blast. Captain obtained his UKC Champion. Bailey obtained all of the points needed and is now only waiting for her competition wins. We cant wait to call her a UKC Champion too! Captain gained his National, International and Honors Ch. At only 3 months old, Dawn made it to Best of Show during this show! It is the best feeling in the world to see the smiles on their faces and their eyes lighting up! They all had a blast! Captain obtained his Honors Bronze Champion Title. Both girls did well. They both won first in each of their classes and Dawn won Reserve Best of Breed in all four shows. We were unable to attend due to puppies being at home, but didnt want the girls to miss out on a great weekend of showing! Dawn got first in class for all three shows. Benelli got first in class all three shows. Benelli also got Reserve Best Female in two show and Best female in one show. For being at a show without mama and dad, the girls did so good! Im so proud of them and a special thanks to Angie for talking the girls! We look forward to the upcoming shows and we are so very excited!! Benelli gained another competition win and many points to add towards obtaining her UKC Champion Title! I have no doubt she will obtain the rest of the needed points and competition win needed to obtain her title soon! The girls did great, even with the judges all wearing masks! We can not wait until the next show!! This was Sergeant's first show and he surprised us all!! We had a blast! Results will be posted in each of their files. Sergeant, Harley, Captain and Dawn participated and did very well! Captain even made it to the Best of Show on Sunday! Dawn and Remi did absolutely wonderful! Harley struggled a bit. She wanted to catch the line instead of the lure! Anyways, they all had a great time and we will certainly be back for more! Harley and Captain got to attend the Norman show! Harley won Reserve Ch x3 shows. Captain and our friend Junior handler Alicia Hood won x1 best Junior class! They both did great! Can't wait until the next show! Remi also came out to the show for her very first time! Dawn and Harley also attended and both did well. Captain, of course, tagged along too! Results will be posted once they are posted on UKC site, as I completely forgot to write down results while at the show! Such an exciting sport. Watching them be so excited to chase the lure is absolutely fun times!! We traveled all of the way there to be a part of this amazing show! We earned a total of 9 titles in both Dock Jumping and Precision Coursing! Harley showed in a couple of shows there, but did not place she was too busy worrying about diving and Captain got to strut around in the TOP 10 Boxer ring! Huge Congratulations to these girls!! Information to come! This means that for every litter, Sergeants Boxers will go down the list and offer puppies to the families in order of deposits received. The family may choose a puppy from the current litter or may pass to wait for a later litter. Even if the family initially expressed the desire for a puppy from a future litter early in the conversation, they will still be asked if they would like to select a puppy when the current litter selections start. Selections start at each litter's 6 weeks of age mark. This allows the families to not only pick from color, but also from personality. Please know that these can change at any time and are only listed for reference. This is non-negotiable. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. The Brass Tacks This is where you learn a little about us, and more about how to purchase a puppy from us.That would drive me nuts! Ready Set.Our puppies will have dewclaws and tails done, will be current on vaccinations and worming appropriate for the puppies age at pickup or delivery. We do ENS with our puppies, we affectionately call it baby exercises, daily from day 3 to day .To create Super Dogs! Healthier and Smarter Dogs! Click here to learn about ENS. All our babies also come microchipped, with a pre-paid membership, all you have to do is mail it in. They each come with a goody bag with their AKC limited papers and a lot of info to help you raise a cherished family member, not just a dog you have for a while then re-home. Also in the bag is some items to help baby not miss mommy and its siblings so much, like toys, food and a blanket that smells like home. Speaking of home, we are located in Central Texas outside of the little town Luling which is about an hour South of Austin or an hour East of San Antonio, or 2. Our puppies are available for local pickup and possible local delivery for a fee. We are also able to meet you at the San Antonio or Austin Airport if you wish to fly down and pick up your baby yourself. Some people fly back, and some rent a car and drive home. There are also companies who provide door to door delivery of puppies for a fee. Deposits can be Cash, Venmo, or PayPal. Deposit can be transferred to a different litter in the future, if your circumstances change or the puppy you were looking for was not in that litter, with the understanding the price may be different based on parentage, color, sex, and quality. I have tried to address as many topics as I could think of, I'm sure I forgot some, feel free to shoot me an email or text with any questions and I will get back to you as soon as I can.

Testimonials Here at home.We are dedicated and love each one as a parent loves its child. We are located on a 10 acre property south of Brandon Manitoba. Our dogs have the run of our 1. Each litter is carefully planned, paying close attention to pedigrees, therefore producing intelligent, loving companions whom will be capable of all that the breed is known for. Environmental factors, family interactions and training methods will effect how your golden puppy behaves and views its world as it grows and learns. We will always be available to you with advise, information and direction to help you with your new family member. Gentrice Goldens puppies will be vet checked prior to going home with their new families no earlier than 8 weeks of age and will also be dewormed at 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age, have their first set of vaccinations and microchipped. Your puppy will also be on NuVet Plus, an all natural supplement that supports your puppies immune system, which is essential at this age especially when moving to a new home. There are so many benefits for this supplement for your pup at the puppy stage and all stages of life. It is my recommendation that you contact NuVet information under the NuVet page on my website to continue this supplement. It is important to us, when you bring a Gentrice Goldens pup into your family, that we keep in touch. We are just a text, email or phone call away and would love to hear all about your family adventures. We welcome you into our family. Contact Us We would love to hear from you or.We welcome a visit; almost any time. Please call us or email to make sure we will be at home! Gentrice Goldens. Our breeding program has been discontinued. We are a small, home-based kennel and boarding service near Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. Owning and breeding Golden Retrievers is an ongoing learning process. We credit our very first litter for giving us abundant insight and experience. Our favourite lesson learned is that the joy that these sweet puppies give us far outweighs the work. Welcome to our website. We hope to meet you one day to begin a lifelong connection through our love for Golden Retrievers. You are still more than welcome to like and follow us on our social media platforms for a daily dose of Golden Retriever love. In addition to owning and breeding Golden Retrievers, we also offer dog boarding. Puppy Interest We are happy to know you share a love for the Golden Retriever breed. Daily Dog Care Separation anxiety? Incessant barking? They put their full trust in us to take care of them and love them for life. With this in mind, we want to gain your trust. A visit also allows us to introduce ourselves and our pets to you and yours, making sure there is trust right from the start. They will be vet checked at 7 weeks, vaccinated, microchipped - comes with 6 weeks complimentary pet insurance and 1 year health guarantee. Puppies will be.Friendly with children. Great guard dogs or simple for pet. They are raised around my children, our other dogs and cats.They are well socialized, playful and have been cuddled by kids. Puppies have been vet checked, all are heathy! They had their.Both parents are fully DNA and genetically health tested through Embark lab and cleared of over genetic diseases common to their breeds. Mommy is a.All are Healthy and Have been vet checked. They have gotten their First Shots and.Please contact us for more details! The loyalty of a retriever and the intelligence of a poodle, you get an incredibly loyal and respectful dog. Very easy to train! The perfect addition to any family. She is the sweetest, Call for more information. These are not Rescue Dogs, the parents can be seen on site. We also have references available from other.The dad is a red standard Golden doodle, The mom is English Golden retriever. He was born on July 18th , he will be ready to go on September 18th. We've been raised as organically as possible, and part of that is we get to stay with our.Lab cross puppies born on Canada Day! Puppies were born July 1, .They will be vet checked at 7 weeks, vaccinated, microchipped - comes with 6 weeks complimentary pet insurance and 1 year health guarantee. Puppies will be.Friendly with children. Great guard dogs or simple for pet. They are raised around my children, our other dogs and cats.Visit Website Below to Order Now! They are well socialized, playful and have been cuddled by kids. Puppies have been vet checked, all are heathy! They had their.Both parents are fully DNA and genetically health tested through Embark lab and cleared of over genetic diseases common to their breeds. Mommy is a.All are Healthy and Have been vet checked. They have gotten their First Shots and.The loyalty of a retriever and the intelligence of a poodle, you get an incredibly loyal and respectful dog. Very easy to train! The perfect addition to any family. She is the sweetest, The dad is a red standard Golden doodle, The mom is English Golden retriever. He was born on July 18th , he will be ready to go on September 18th. We've been raised as organically as possible, and part of that is we get to stay with our.Lab cross puppies born on Canada Day! Puppies were born July 1, .There are 5 black labs and 1 golden lab, 4 females and 2 males. This is their parents first litter and the mom is.Lincoln is 7 years old and is intact. He is very loving! Excellent with kids and other dogs! He is up to date on his vaccinations, deworming, and annual vet checks. Accepting decent offers. Kleefeld 7 gourgous pups looking for loving families. DAD is purebred golden retriever MOM is purebred black lab They are a great mixture to be excellent farm and hunting dogs. They will be both smart and.We pride ourselves in giving your puppy the utmost love, care and training it deserves. You will.We have 1 males available. The puppies are happy, healthy, and played with by children. Dad is pure bred Golden Retriever, Mom is pure bred black lab. Mom is also for sale. Mom is a lovely friend, comes.Golden Retriever Blue Heeler mix! Born and raised outside, used to kids, chickens, goats, cats! Excellent yard dogs! But would make a great house dog too! Browse other categories in All Categories in Manitoba.

Share 0 Shares 8 weeks is often the age at which our beloved Goldendoodle puppy should be ready for pickup from their respective breeders. At this stage, the Goldendoodle puppy should have gone through a lot to ensure they come out perfect, healthy, and strong. Even with all that, the puppy still has a lot more development to do, and you as its new owner are a critical part of this development process. With that being said, this article provides you with everything you need to know about the 8 weeks old Goldendoodle puppy. They should have gone through basic socialization and training programs to help them get more comfortable in new situations. We would provide you with valuable information on what to expect from your newly gotten Goldendoodle, the processes they would have gone through, and what needs to be done to ensure they grow strong and healthy. What To Expect From a Week-old Goldendoodle Puppy 8 week old mini Goldendoodle As stated earlier, the 8-week age range is the time period at which you should be getting your Goldendoodle puppy from their respective Goldendoodle breeder homes. With that being said, depending on how reputable the breeder is, your Goldendoodle should already be properly socialized or introduced to the basics of proper socialization. This is highly important as even though Goldendoodles are incredibly nice and generally happy dogs, an unsocialized Goldendoodle can develop some erratic traits or behaviors that can be caused by stress from being in unfamiliar situations and seeing unfamiliar faces. And since your new Goldendoodle friend should be seeing you for the first time around this stage, socialization is a high necessity. They should also be healthy and fully checked by a licensed vet. Reputable breeders know the importance of vaccinations and deworming for Goldendoodles and all dogs in general. With that being said, your new Goldendoodle puppy should have received all the necessary shots and deworming that are appropriate for the exact age range they fall on. And as an extra, some Goldendoodle breeders make an effort to introduce or start their Goldendoodle puppy on the basics of certain training programs like basic commands, potty, and crate training. If this is the same for you, then you are expected to further improve on the overall training your new Goldendoodle gets as they are no longer under the care of their breeders. First Week Schedule With 8 Week Old Goldendoodle Puppy After receiving your Goldendoodle puppy from the breeder, the next and best thing to do would be to have them properly checked or examined by a licensed vet. Have them properly examine your Goldendoodle puppy and be sure they are free from any issues that might have been overlooked by the breeder. While the puppy is with the vet, have them properly vaccinated and dewormed to keep them healthy and strong. You also would want to ensure they are properly trained and exercised to ensure they are in the best of shapes and behaviors. When it comes to socializing your new Goldendoodle puppy, there is a great way to go about it. The idea is to make sure your Goldendoodle puppy familiarizes itself with every possible situation and possible human interaction it can possibly be exposed to. There are three key focal areas you should prioritize when it comes to socializing your Goldendoodle puppy. The first should be human interaction. This is highly important when trying to familiarize your Goldendoodle with your household and friends. Ensure you regularly introduce your Goldendoodle to people of various age groups and appearance structures. This can include them trying out different attires and looks on your Goldendoodle to ensure they are comfortable with people in any form they might appear in. For the second socialization priority, focus on general experiences and stimulations that the Goldendoodle puppy might get introduced to in the future. This can come in a variety of sounds like car horns, vacuum cleaner noises, and a host of others. Different textures can also be introduced to the Goldendoodle and a host of other feelings as well as sights. Take your Goldendoodle puppy exploring, and let them soak in different experiences that can help shape them into becoming bright and generally happy dogs. So occasional swimming, car rides, and regular walks would definitely help them get properly socialized. The third area or focal point when it comes to socialization should be interacting with other dogs and animals. If your Goldendoodle was raised on a farm, this can help a lot with getting them socialized with farm animals and other pets. This can be regular doggy daycare or home. Just ensure they are carefully vetted before handing over your precious Goldendoodle to them. Identifying how big your Goldendoodle would be at 8 weeks of age can be a bit difficult to predict. This is because the size of the Goldendoodle can be affected by lots of different variables and factors. Even though an 8 weeks Goldendoodle is technically still a puppy, their sizes can be influenced by the exact size class they fall under, teacup, petite, and standard Goldendoodles could each possess different sizes and weight classes at that stage of their life. But on average, your Goldendoodle should fall between the range of 3 pounds to 12 pounds in weight. The height also depends on the overall size class they fall under, with an average of 7 to 12 inches. At this stage of the Goldendoodle puppy, you should also expect that they develop a ferocious appetite. This is practical because they are at the peak of the growing stage and they require all the necessary nutrients that could further make them healthy. The required nutrients for a Goldendoodle puppy at this stage are protein, carbohydrates, and fat, alongside other nutrients like vitamins, calcium, and a lot more. The exact feeding schedule should be based on the size of the 8-week-old Goldendoodle puppy. This can be spread across 3 to 4 different meal servings for that day. This also works for even smaller sizes of the 8-week-old Goldendoodle puppy like the petite and teacup size class. When looking at medium size Goldendoodles puppies, at 8 weeks old, you can consider providing them with more food than you would a small-sized Goldendoodle. You can spread that across 3 to 4 servings to ensure they are well-fed but not overfed. And as for the standard-sized 8-week-old Goldendoodle puppy, you should consider feeding them 1 cup of Goldendoodle kibble each day. This can also be spread across 3 to 4 servings each day to be certain they get all their desired nutritional requirements. Even the 8-week-old Goldendoodle puppy can be seen as energetic, they are still pretty young and deserve all the sleep and rest they can. Their immune systems and overall bodies require all the sleep that they can get. With that being said, ensure you provide your 8-week-old Goldendoodle puppy with over 18 to 20 hours of complete sleep each day. This should go on till they are at least 20 weeks old, at which point their entire sleep schedule can then be reduced to 13 hours minimum. And as such, it is highly important that you let your Goldendoodle get all the desired rest even though you might feel very tempted to play with them. It is highly important that you do not overwork your Goldendoodle, especially during their puppy stage as their bodies and the overall system is still very fragile and easy to injure. With that being said, you should regularly exercise your Goldendoodle pups and keep them healthy. Start them slowly by introducing short minute walks each day. This can be done between 1 to 3 times each day, totaling 30 minutes of mild exercises for them. Remember to do this in a safe and controlled environment where they would be free from any harm or health issues that might affect them. You can also introduce them to small games like mild fetch or perhaps tug. As theory gets older perhaps 4 months and above , you can proceed to increase the overall time limit for exercising your Goldendoodle and even add more games for them to play and generally have fun. Training Your 8-week-old Goldendoodle Puppy Training your Goldendoodle puppy might feel like a daunting task and who can blame you? Sometimes it feels like they might be having a hard time understanding basic instructions. But the Goldendoodle is a wonderful dog to train. They are quite intelligent and are more likely to pick up instructions and learn faster than the average canine dog or breed. When training a Goldendoodle it is always a great idea to adopt a gentle and kinder approach to training. This method is called positive reinforcement and it is proven to be much more effective on Goldendoodles than simply being stern and authoritative. This way, you can keep them interested long enough for them to learn new tricks and techniques. In fact, there are three possible pieces of training they can undergo at such a young age. These are;. Predicting the mature size of a puppy is by no means an exact science, especially with a hybrid breed like the goldendoodle. How big will my goldendoodle puppy be? From birth until the gotchya day, puppies have fluctuated back and forth in terms of who weighs the most. Even though adult weight is a bit of a guess for a young puppy, expect mini goldendoodles to weigh 4lbs-9lbs at 8 weeks of age. A medium puppy and standard puppy may both weigh 9lbs at 8 weeks old, but the standard puppy with gain weight at a quicker rate than the medium. Like most dog breeds, goldendoodles generally do the majority of their growing in the first six months of life. In fact, many mini goldendoodle puppies reach half of their adult weight by four months. Standard goldendoodles may take a month or so longer to reach that halfway mark. The larger the dog, the longer growing takes. For mini goldendoodles, expect the weight to start leveling off between months of age. Standard goldendoodles, like other large dog breeds, will grow for a longer period of time. While this rule may work for many standards, it is not accurate with smaller-sized goldendoodles who finish growing at a younger age. When will my goldendoodle stop growing? Dogs can finish growing anywhere between years of age, but generally reach their maximum height by a year of age and spend the remaining months filling out. This means your dog might hit a growth spurt right after her first birthday — she might not get any taller but she could thicken up. Golden retrievers grow at a slower rate in terms of height than standard poodles, but fill out more quickly. Golden retrievers tend to finish growing and filling out between months while standard poodles can take up to 2 years to accomplish the same. Established breeds generally reproduce naturally, whereas first-generation mini goldendoodles require artificial insemination. Subsequent generations of hybrid breeds i. F1b, F2b, etc. F1b goldendoodles can potentially have a slightly more predictable size range if the parents are similar sizes. Our 19lb F1 goldendoodle and 24lb poodle produce F1b mini goldendoodle puppies ranging in weight from lbs as adults. Embark is a canine genetic testing company that offers a variety of canine disease and trait tests in their panel. Order an Embark testing kit off Amazon , send in that quick cheek swab, and Embark will happily send you the results. Check out our goldendoodle puppy time lapses to watch various goldendoodles grow up right before your eyes! If you would like to submit data, please complete our quick survey or email goldendoodles timberidgefarms. Growth patterns vary from dog to dog but there are some generalities you may find helpful. Remember, this is a guide only, not a guarantee! Thank you for your support! We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share this:. There is so much your little guy needs to learn to be a polite, lifelong family companion — where do you even begin? We are here to give you a broad overview of some basic tips of where to start with teaching your new buddy. Follow these three steps to begin training your 8 week old doodle puppy. The good news is if you welcome a JLDD puppy, we have already done some of the hard work with crate training for you. At JLDD we introduce all of our puppies to the crate at weeks of age! First, they are first placed in a crate with another littermate. As they get older, they begin to spend small amounts of individual time in the crate each day. We give our pups an excellent head start, but as the owner, it is up to you to follow through with structured crate time even if your pup objects at first. The first few days can be extremely difficult, but your consistency will pay off. Many owners find it difficult to be consistent because of their worry that their dog is miserable with crate training and, true enough, the puppies can sound really pitiful in there. But stay strong and remember that you are actually helping them in the long run to have a safe place when they must be left alone. A good crate training foundation will be very helpful in curbing separation anxiety and will make traveling, boarding, grooming, etc. Once the pup accepts the crate as his personal space, he will often go there on his own to rest. Keeping a routine is key so your pup knows what to expect. Allow pup to settle for about five minutes before you let him or her out. The only time this does not apply is in the middle of the night. Potty Training When people ask what they need to know before buying a doodle , this is the big one! And it can be very intimidating for owners. Bring all your consistency and patience! Keep in mind most puppies will not be fully potty trained until at least weeks. We start our young pups on puppy pad training so puppy pads can be a helpful stepping stone to outdoor potty training when you first bring your dood home. Keeping the area small and puppy pads easily accessible will help your pup stay consistent. Many owners find it is an easy transition to slowly move the puppy pads to the designated outdoor area closer to the door, then right outside the door, etc. Other owners prefer to jump straight into outdoor potty training. Here are a few basic tips: Frequent potty breaks. When your doodle is awake and playing, taking him out as frequently as every 30 minutes is important when they are young. When pup does potty, immediately praise and reward him with a treat. Always use the same exit to take your puppy out. This will help them learn where to head when the urge strikes! Eagle Eye. Scolding your pup for an accident after the fact is generally ineffective as he will not connect the discipline to the moment of the accident. We work on basic obedience and conditioning as early as weeks with our pups at JLDD by waiting until the pups sit to give their food and treats. Remember that basic obedience is critical for establishing the owner-dog relationship early on. It teaches your doodle that he must look to you for direction and when treats are involved that looking to the human for direction is lots of fun! Doodle puppies are extremely clever and can easily learn the basics such as sit, stay, down and come in their first couple weeks at home with you. Stay positive and keep training sessions short. End the session if you find yourself feeling frustrated for any reason. Furthermore, doodles are a sensitive breed and generally highly trainable so most respond quite well to positive training methods. Typically, simply ignoring unwanted behavior and rewarding the desired behavior will produce the intended results. If you're looking for a fully trained doodle to bring home, JLDD provides an awesome course for new puppies. We hope the advice in this article helps aid the teaching of your dog! Be sure to share your best tips with us at contact jennaleedoodles. Post not marked as liked4 Recent Posts. Now, whether you already have a dog or have yet to pick him up, it would be good for you to learn what to expect this month with your Dood, both developmentally and as a new Doodle parent. However, as your puppy transitions to his forever family and home, socialization is more important than ever now. To help reduce the fear of the unfamiliar as he grows older, your job is to start helping your new companion meet a variety of beings, including babies and children, men, dogs, cats, and birds. It is also a good idea to introduce him to: People of all ages, including kids and older people. People of all appearances, including men and women. Different kinds of attire, including hats, sunglasses, and coats. Unfortunately, I know from experience that if he grows up without meeting kids when he is young, he may never feel comfortable around them as an adult. As a result, they may act out of fear and potentially hurt kids. As such, he may develop irreversible behaviors leading to antisocial behavior, fear, or aggression. Rather, it should just begin before that time. A good rule of thumb is to have puppy meet different people by 12 weeks of age. Expect your puppy to react with fear in different situations, which is a very normal part of puppy development. Offer them a variety of new experiences and reward your puppy for exploring them. By 12 weeks of age or so, they will begin teething. By the end of this month, he should have better control of his bladder and bowels. He may begin to sleep through the night without accidents or potty breaks — yay! Your Dood will need more and more food as he grows. Be sure to feed him times a day right now to support his rapid brain and body development. Before bringing your 2-month old puppy home, find out what food the breeder was feeding him and use that same food as he adjusts to his new home. After a few days, you can start making the switch to a different puppy food if you want. Feed your 2-month old puppy an appropriate amount of food. On the other hand, if he often leaves leftovers in his bowl, reduce how much you give him. Use our feeding calculator if you need and be sure to keep track of his growth using our awesome growth tracker! Related Content.

Phone lines open everyday from 8. We're a happy, friendly team and would love you to come and visit us at the centre to see our fantastic facilities and all the waggy tails of our doggy guests. Thanks to your support, all these dogs will be cared for and loved by our dedicated staff until their forever home comes along. By public transport: Centre is about a minute drive from both Warwick and Kenilworth train stations. By road: Situated on the A in Honiley. Junction 15 or 16 from M40 depending on which direction you're travelling in. Parking available on site. Local supporter relations If you are interested in donating In Memory, have questions about our Canine Care Card service, leaving a Legacy or if you would like to book a guest speaker for your Community Group, then please get in touch with your local Supporter Relations Officer Helen Barlow or call on .Supporting us Donate your pre-loved items. Signage outside will make it clear where you can drop off your donations. We rely on your kind support to continue our vital work, please donate today. How rehoming works. Their Dad is a Cockapoo breed, with lovely, light apricot-coloured fur. The puppies themselves have more similarities in terms of looks and behaviour to the Cockapoo breed rather than Shih Tzu. All of the puppies are healthy, affectionate and very active; they grew up naturally, drinking milk just from their mother - they did not receive formula milk or any other supplement. Their weaning process has already started and they are all adapting comfortably to the change. The puppies have already received their first worming treatment and are already set to receive the rest of their medical treatments, including vaccination, chipping, health check, etc. Please feel free to contact me with any queries or offers you may have - I'm more than happy to answer any questions you might have. Whichever of our stunning puppies you choose to take home, I'm more than sure that they will make a wonderful addition - whether it be as a family pet to a loving household or as an amazing 'First Time Pet' experience! They are sure to bring lots of love, joy and excitement into your lives - not to mention unforgettable memories. Please feel free to come visit them, but book early to avoid disappointment!

Eager to get started? This is an important consideration because puppies have smaller bladders and may not have full control over them yet so a little extra patience and understanding is required. Like many dogs, senior Labradoodles can be harder to housetrain but if you own a puppy, you can start training them when they reach 4 to 6 months old. The Labradoodle is a naturally smart breed and will take about 4 to 5 months to housetrain. Consistent training and applying the right training methods will go a long way in making the process easier for you and your dog. Dogs are in the habit of sniffing the ground before doing their business. Barking and Whining Your dog will sometimes bark and whine to let you know that it needs to go outside. They can be signs of discomfort as they get the urge to pee or poop. Going in Circles This is another indication that your dog needs to go outside. Here are 3 methods we recommend. Choose one that you feel will work best for you: Method 1: Using Commands A tried and tested classic potty-training method, commands allow us to communicate with our dogs so they know what we expect from them. How To Do It As you start out, this method requires you to take your dog out 10 to 30 minutes after finishing a meal and every three hours. Issue your command and eventually, your dog will learn to associate the action with the word. Method 2: Bell Ringing This has to be one of the more impressive ways to train your Labradoodle. You can train your dog to ring a bell whenever it needs to go out for potty. Australian Labradoodles are a different breed the Labradoodles although similar! You only need to attach a bell like this one to your door so that it rings every time you go out. Potty Bells dog doorbells are THE original dog doorbell made of only the highest quality.Great Training Tool: Tired of the scratching and barking at your door? Dog potty door bells are the perfect aid to housetrain your puppy or dog. Follow our easy 3 step training guide. Teach your pooch.Simply the best puppy training bells for dogs. Eight color options. Black and grey Potty Bells also.Function: Potty Bells are the original superior dog training aid for housebreaking your puppy. Adjustable strap training bell is ideal for any size or age puppy or dog. Use the strong holding snaps to.We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. Teach your dog to ring the bell on its own. To do so, you can hold a treat near the bell and when your dog makes it ring, reward your pet with the treat and praise your dog profusely. If this happens, let them out anyway. Your pet will sooner or later tire of the game and will only ring the bell to alert you of legitimate potty breaks. Method 3: Crate-training Crate-training is another classic method for potty-training. This method also gives your dog a safe space where they feel comfortable and cozy as they adjust to a new home. Make sure that your dog can comfortably lie down, turn around, and stand in it. This method requires you to move quickly and let your dog out at the earliest sign that it needs to go. You can also let your dog out even before it starts sniffing and moving in circles. Depending on the dog, it can take days or weeks for crate training to work. Note that younger dogs will need to go out more frequently than older dogs. What should you name your Labradoodle puppy? Our best Labradoodle name ideas. Tips for Potty-training Success Do you have an idea of which training method you want to use? Here are some things to keep in mind: Tip 1: Maintain a Consistent Schedule One of the best ways to predict when your Labradoodle will need to go is to maintain a consistent feeding schedule. When you serve meals at the same time every day, your dog will learn to anticipate them and have more consistent bowel movements as well. You can also incorporate scheduled walks and playtime to create more consistency and give them the physical and mental stimulation that healthy dogs need. Tip 2: Treats and More Treats! Labradoodles have a healthy appetite that you can use to your advantage while potty-training them. Since Labradoodles inherit the eager to please personalities of their poodle parent , you can also shower them with praise and belly rubs to show them how pleased you are with them. Pro Tip: If your dog rings the bell, or relieves itself on command or right after you let it out of the crate, reward it immediately so they learn to associate the action with the reward. Tip 3: Build a Strong Bond This must be one of the most enjoyable tips on this list because it entails cuddling with your Labradoodle and spending time with it. As their owner, your dog will not only thrive by having a healthy and secure relationship with you but will also want to please you during potty-training. A great way to build a strong bond with your dog is by feeding it from your hand. This is particularly effective for shy and fearful dogs. Dogs by nature love their humans and enjoy their company. You can also use the opportunity to get to know your dog better. Additionally, pee pads are also much easier and more pleasant to deal with than cleaning your floor. Tip 5: Make Learning Fun As their owner, you can help them associate following commands with positive experiences. After your Labradoodle is done relieving itself, spend a few minutes playing with them. Get to know what activities they enjoy the most and reward them by engaging in them. While it may seem like an obvious and practical lesson, it may take some time for Labradoodles to understand what we want from them. Despite the challenges, potty training is worth the time and effort that you put in. Imagine what a difference a properly housetrained dog makes compared to an untrained one. Being patient with them as they learn will also help you establish a strong bond and make it easier if you want to teach them more tricks in the future. Remember to be patient, consistent, give your dog a structured schedule, and immediately reward your furry friend whenever the situation calls for it. If, once in a while your dog fails to measure up, just keep at it, and sooner or later your Labradoodle will pick up on what you want it to do. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. You must understand his nature as an animal and companion. Knowing these things will help you house-train your dog. In this way, you can give rewards or praise when the dog does well. These rewards will likely depend on what dogs want as dog food or as a simple pat on the back. The next thing you need to know, in addition to the time it takes, you should also be patient enough to train your child at home. If you find it difficult to train a human child, it would be impossible to train a dog. Communicating with your dog can be the most difficult part. However, when you understand them, their nature will be more relaxed. Patience is a key aspect of ensuring that the dog learns what it wants to learn. It should feel that your home is with you, the person who is training you. In this way, the dog would surrender to your order and would do as you say. You, as a coach, should always have quality time together in the form of connecting through games or as easy as doing it together in the park. Unfortunately, many dog owners have no idea how to train their dogs at home. Go Outside Every Couple of Hours A Labradoodle puppy should be outside every time it has slept, eaten, had something to drink, after playtime, or just after being really excited. That might seem excessive, so as a rule of thumb, it might be easier to just remember to allow it outside every hours. That should lower the risk of an accident quite a bit. A clear signal that your puppy is about to have a call of nature, is that it will spin around itself a few times, before sitting down on its bottom. When you see this, quickly get it outside. Praise and Treats Shouting and screaming have probably never helped anything, the puppy will learn far more by positive reinforcement. This way it will quickly find out which behavior is rewarded, and the puppy would naturally want to repeat those actions. The reason why it might have a few accidents inside is that it has never really learned any alternative. When there is the occasional accident, there is really no better way, than to just get a paper towel, clean it up, and move on. Patience is a virtue If you do intervene with the puppy, it might take a bit of time before it remembers where it left off. And the second you get back inside where there are peace and quiet, the puppy will let out a sigh of relief, and pee on the floor. Quick Summary Let the dog outside every time it has eaten or had a drink. Also quickly after a nap. To begin with, also a couple of times through the night. Start as soon as possible. And if you want it to primarily go on grass, introduce it to this element fast. Perhaps even use the same area so the puppy is familiarized with the spot. Praise it when the opportunity is there. By following these simple ideas, you should be able to house-train any puppy. And if you want even more detailed advice and tips on how to house-train your puppy, this guide affiliate link has pretty helpful tricks you might be interested to look into. Additional Tips for House Training a Labradoodle Puppy Training Tip 1 The first rule of thumb to train your dog at home is to stick with foods that are already used to his system. Giving your Labradoodle puppy fatty foods can make it difficult to control his intestines. Training Tip 2 Not only is it important to feed your dog the food it is used to, but it is also very important to feed it every day. Doing this makes home training easy for both you and your dog; for your dog because it helps you establish a regular elimination pattern. And for you, because you can use this pattern to your advantage when it comes to training your pet, quickly and efficiently. Training Tip 3 You probably already have the idea that schedules are a good idea when it comes to training your dog at home. Well, here is another piece of the puzzle. Then be sure to take it out every few hours throughout the day. Doing so will help you understand that his business must be done outside. The sooner he learned this, the better. If you can avoid it, you really want to prevent your dog from entering. Not only because cleaning is a pain, but because the smell is almost impossible to remove and will continue to attract your Labradoodle puppy repeatedly. Hopefully, your dog will crash from time to time during training. When this happens, immediately clean the pool. Remember, animals tend to repeatedly return to places where they can smell urine or feces, so be sure to clean them well, especially carpets. If you notice your Labradoodle puppy gravitate to the point and bend down to do his business again, pick him up and take him outside. You may also want to check with your local pet store for something to help you get rid of the smell. Dogs often behave in a certain way when they feel the need to eliminate. It is much easier to train your Labradoodle puppy at home when you are alert and ready to accompany your little one as soon as you see the first signs that he may need to leave. You may want to look at boxes to train your dog. With a little time and training, he will learn how to do his business where he should. The key here is to make sure your labradoodle puppy gets out of the box and into the yard! Training Tip 6 Good behavior should be praised. Then give credit where it is due. Your Labradoodle puppy will do almost anything to gain approval. You must make it very obvious that you are satisfied with his behavior, so be enthusiastic and effusive. Later, when obedience training begins, your Labradoodle puppy will already know that obedience equals praise, so home training sets the stage for all your dog training efforts. Doing so will truly show your pooch that working together outside is synonymous with being distant from everyone else. Put a positive turn on the whole preparation experience. Praise your little one while doing business, and then spend a few minutes on quality playtime. He will learn faster, and you will both be happier. Daring your dog after the disaster will only scare him of you or the mess. And in some cases, it can even cause your dog to start eating its waste because it feels its presence annoys it. Training Tip 8 Pick a verbal order. The pet is more used to short expressions that its owner utilizes much of the time. Since mistakes will continue to occur during the home training process, you will need a variety of hand-cleaning supplies. You can use Bleach to neutralize urine, but beware of where you put it away, as it will stain some clothes. Buying cleaning products for controlling pet mess will be more beneficial than using regular cleaning products. It takes a lot of love, but your dog will learn not to make the whole house his personal bathroom. Final Words Not all puppies are created equal when it comes to training. Some require more time and effort than others, but the training methods are usually very similar. It takes time and dedication to train a dog properly. Patience is the key to training, and repetition is key to reinforcing the learning process. The age of the little dog can be critical, as it is commonly simpler to prepare more puppies. If possible, training should start between six and eight weeks. Different races can also play an important role in training methods. Different breeds have different temperaments and personalities. Then take him outside immediately. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. Apr 26, Share Labradoodles are smart, loving, and active dogs. Hybrid dogs end up with traits from both parents. Labrador Retrievers and Poodles are both incredibly smart breeds. Here are nine expert tips to help you potty-train your Labradoodle. Take Your Time Patience is a virtue when it comes to potty training Labradoodles. The entire process can take 4 to 6 months, so get ready to clean up a few accidents! While most adult dogs can go for around hours without a bathroom break, puppies require more frequent trips outside. Most 3-month-old dogs need to pee every 4 hours, and 4-month-old puppies are usually okay for around 5 hours without a bathroom break. Puppies often require bathroom breaks first thing in the morning, after naps and meals, and before bed. Puppies often have physical tells that indicate they need to hit the bathroom. Once you know what those indications are, take your pet outside, encourage them to pee, and give them a nice reward. Dogs eventually learn to associate peeing outside with getting a reward, which usually leads to increased motivation to pee outside. Sniffing, pacing, and whining are often signs that dogs need a bathroom break. COM, Shutterstock 3. Stay on Schedule Feed and take your Labradoodle for walks at the same time each day. Regular scheduling often reduces canine stress, as most pets do best with steady routines. Stick with Positive Reinforcement and Training Labradoodles are sensitive dogs. Harsh training techniques, including punishment and even sharp reprimands, can increase canine anxiety, often making it difficult for dogs to learn. Catch your dog doing the things you want to see and provide lots of praise and treats for emphasis. And make sure to keep training, including potty training, fun to ensure your dog remains motivated, interested, and engaged. Image Credit: Josh Borup, Pixabay 5. Training and Bonding Most dogs can start basic obedience training at 8 weeks old. Begin with the basics, such as sit, stay, and down. Early obedience training and socialization exercises provide fantastic human-canine bonding opportunities. Owners often find that training is a great way to spend quality time with their pets. Because Labradoodles are people-oriented, having a strong bond with your dog may make the potty training process more manageable. Allow your pet to become comfortable with one way of communicating their need to take a potty break; you can always introduce alternative options after your dog has mastered the basics. Image Credit: Lopolo, Shutterstock 7. Walk Your Puppy Before You Head Out Because puppies have small bladders, most need to use the bathroom more frequently than adult dogs. Walking your puppy at set times, like after breakfast and before bed, is often helpful. Set your Labradoodle up to succeed by allowing them to take appropriately spaced bathroom breaks. Take your dog to the same place every time you go for a walk, and wait until they go to the bathroom. When your dog uses the bathroom outside in the designated spot, provide treats and praise. Eventually, most dogs learn that peeing in that spot instead of in the house earns goodies. Image Credit: John Edmonds, Pixabay 9. Ignore It When Your Dog Has an Accident Dogs pee and poop inside for several reasons, including not being able to hold it long enough and not understanding how to communicate their needs. If you catch your dog getting ready to pee inside, tell them to wait and take them outside immediately. Most dogs will naturally stop peeing or pooping in response. Next, take them outside to their pee spot, let them finish going to the bathroom, and then reward them for good behavior. Conclusion Labradoodles are sweet, friendly dogs that make fantastic, devoted companions. They bond deeply with their favorite people and enjoy spending time around loved ones. Labradoodles are incredibly smart , and they are known to be incredibly easy to train. Potty training a Labradoodle requires patience, and you can expect the entire process to take anywhere from 4 to 6 months. Stick with positive reinforcement , reward what you want to see, and celebrate when your Labradoodle masters a new skill. Toilet areas can be as specific as a litter box or as general as an area outside. You must have a clear idea, however, of what is an acceptable toilet spot, before you start educating your dog. Your dog can be trained to use only a specific corner of the yard if you are willing to take the time to train your dog to that level of understanding. Your attitude is the most important ingredient in the formula of house training. You are taking your dog or puppy through a process of education; he does not know that it is wrong to use your carpet as his toilet. His Mother never told him. It is not preprogrammed into his genetic coding. It is your job to help him understand the whole concept. With patience and understanding you and your furry friend should be able to achieve your goal in a few short weeks. Keep all meals on a predictable schedule. Avoid any rich foods that could upset your puppy's bowels. Establish a bedtime and a wake up time. Puppies need a lot of nap times, make sure your schedule allows for these. Keep in mind, your puppy will need to go out immediately after all naps. Anytime your puppy has been emotionally stimulated IE frightened or a very rowdy play time your puppy may experience the need to eliminate. Supervise in the house If you know where your dog is at all times and what he is doing, you can catch him before he makes a mistake.If he starts to make a mistake, firmly but calmly say "No" and take him straight out to the toilet area. Do not yell at your puppy or chase him. If you are busy and cannot totally supervise your puppy, put him in a contained area, where he won't make a mistake, or tie him to the door knob of the room you are in. When supervision is not possible gone to work all day? Provide a small area to contain your puppy IE a crate or small bathroom or fenced off corner of the garage. Do not leave food and water with your puppy and do not load your puppy down with a lot of doggie cookies. If you are gone 8 hours, it would be good to find someone who would take him for a walk and give him some water. Take Your Puppy Out Take your puppy out to the desired toilet area and stand quietly while your puppy investigates the area for the "right" spot. This is not play time! Do not distract your puppy by trying to talk to him into hurrying up. If he does not go potty during that time , return him to the house and contain him in a crate for a half hour, then try again. When he does start to potty, quietly and calmly praise him while he is in the process of going potty. Use the word you have chosen for this IE "Good Potty", when he is done, you can praise him with more enthusiasm. Learn your puppy's habits. Some puppies need to potty 2 or 3 times in one outing. Urination is often followed by a BM. If the weather is foul and you aren't happy about taking out your puppy, it is very important not to let your puppy sense this. You may create a dog that does not like using the outside to do his business in foul weather. While you are learning your puppy's habits, take him out, every time he wakes up, after he has eaten, and after all play sessions. Help your puppy get outside to the appropriate potty area; follow the preceding instructions for taking your puppy out. Clean the mess with an odor neutralizer. Your puppy's sense of smell is far superior to ours. If it smells like a toilet area to him, he will continue to use that area for a toilet. Do not clean up the mess in front of the puppy. Put the puppy on a leash and calmly bring him to the scene of the accident. Keep the dog to your side, not in front of you. While your puppy is watching.Blot up some of the urine on a tissue and take it and your puppy out to the appropriate toilet area. Place the tissue with the potty on it on the ground, with the puppy watching; Praise the tissue for being in the right area, then leave the tissue there. Clean up the remaining mess as previously stated. By: David Codr Published Date: May 2, For this Omaha puppy training session we go over remedial potty training to help 15 week-old Labradoodle puppy May stop having accidents as well as share tips to stop 5 year-old Maltipo Friend from marking in the house. Being a mature puppy, May is all about energy and playing. After sharing some creative exercise ideas and enrolling May into our puppy socialization classes , we discussed how to add rules and structure by petting with a purpose and rewarding desired behaviors with passive training. I asked how they potty trained the puppy and its possible there was some confusion between the puppy and people. I handed my camera to the guardians so I could share potty training tips to use when you have a mature puppy peeing in the house. Many puppies and adult dogs need to brush up with some remedial potty training tips. If the guardians take the dog out as detailed in the free dog training video below, they should be able to potty train their puppy the positive way. To help the guardian remember all the tips we shared in this in home puppy training session, we filmed a roadmap to success video that you can check out below. Ways to Potty Train a Labradoodle Puppy There are two main schools of thought when it comes to potty training a puppy: Puppy pads But there is also a happy medium, where you combine these when necessary. Which Method is Best? In reality, neither method is better than the other. But, one may be better for you and your lifestyle. When done correctly, both ways, and the happy medium, can create a well trained Labradoodle. But, for others, cleaning up puppy pads inside is no big deal! The end result will be the same — a Labradoodle that goes to the toilet in the right place. Puppy Pad Potty Training Potty training with puppy pads involves covering the floor of the area that your puppy has access to with pads. The floor you need to choose must be easy to clean for this method, like wooden or linoleum. So a kitchen is usually ideal. Then, when your puppy is reliably toileting in this smaller area, you just pop a couple of pads outside the back door. Finally, you will remove them altogether. You must remove the pads gradually for the same reason that you must start off by covering your entire kitchen floor. To reduce the risk of your puppy having an accident on your floor itself! To him, the floor might seem just as suitable as a puppy pad. So, covering the entire floor at first will remove the risk of any accidents on your floor. Removing the pads gradually will help your puppy learn that the pads are the right place, rather than causing any confusion when they suddenly disappear. But the downside is that it takes longer to get your puppy going to the toilet outside. And in the meantime, you have a house that is periodically peed and pooped in. It can also be more confusing for the puppy to transition to doing their business inside, to moving outside. Which can mean the occasional accident. Crate Training Crate training is a great help to many puppy parents, because it helps your puppy learn to pee outside from the very start. A crate also gives your puppy their own cosy and safe space to stay in for short periods of time. The crate must be big enough for the puppy to stand up and turn around in, but not much more. And it should be full of comfy, cosy bedding. When gradually introduced to a crate, with lots of rewards and for very short periods to begin with, a puppy will love their soft bed very much. And because it is where they sleep, they will really not want to pee in there. As long as it is not too big. This means it is a useful place to put your puppy if you want them to wait just a few short more minutes between pees. The rest of the time the pup is out and about in a wipe-clean room with you. If they squat or start sniffing around, take them outside and stay with them to see if they need the bathroom. If they have any accidents, clean them up with a pet safe spray straight away. But hopefully, your schedule and lots of close monitoring will mean that accidents are few and far between. Using the Crate Safely When used properly, a crate can make a great training tool. However, if your crate is too large, your puppy will simply go to the toilet at one end and sleep at the other. The benefit of the crate is that you can easily wash bedding and clean the crate tray if there are any accidents. Labradoodle puppies need lots of mental stimulation, play, engagement, and exercise. But, another great way to do this is simply by picking your puppy up. If they usually pee every 20 minutes, and you want to see if they will last 30 minutes, just pick them up after 20 minutes if they have already spent a lot of time in their crate today. Hold them for 5 or 10 minutes before taking them out for a pee. And remember, you need to introduce the crate gradually at first, to ensure your puppy feels happy and safe inside. So, picking them up will help you a lot in those early days. Combining Crates and Puppy Pads The crate training puppy method requires getting up at 2am for at least a few days, as you will need to continue to offer regular potty breaks through the night. Many puppy parents find this understandably tough. It also means that you can barely remove your attention from the puppy at all during the day for the first few weeks. But, puppy parents are often human parents too. And, you may need to pop out of the house for a few minutes a couple of times a day as a minimum. A great way to deal with these situations is to set up your crate inside a puppy playpen. During the night and when you need to briefly pop out during the day, you leave the crate door open and line the puppy play pen with puppy pads. This means they can relieve themselves if they need to, without risking messing in their bed or on your floor. Schedules for Potty Training a Labradoodle Puppy To give your puppy the best chance of success when crate potty training, you need to give them lots of opportunities to use the bathroom outdoors. These timings are not set in stone, but are a good starting point for each stage. Some owners will find that they need to offer a pee break as often as every 20 minutes. Watch out for the behaviors we talked about above if you think your puppy needs a pee — particularly sniffing in one spot and squatting. Many puppies will start sleeping through the night. Give them lots of opportunities to pee outdoors, including after every meal or big drink from their water bowl. Remove the water at night, but keep it somewhere they can get at it during the day. In those early weeks, they should spend most of their time with you in a room with wipe-clean floors, just in case! Post navigation. However you must teach your puppy all of your expectations, gently and firmly from day one. Decide the rules you want for your puppy, and teach them those rules right from the beginning, such as: not getting on furniture, not jumping up on people. If you allow that in the beginning, it will be very difficult to break the habit. Getting Prepared for A New Puppy! Puppy Chewing The more things you have for your puppy to chew, the less likely they are to chew up your things. The need to chew will go on for at least 18 months, although they may always love having things to chew and toys. You will also need a premium puppy food of your choice. We use an All Life Stages dog food made primarily of chicken and rice. Dogs originally were den animals, they burrowed holes underground, where they were safe from predators and nice and warm. They instinctively do not go to the bathroom in their dens. A crate is a safe haven for your puppy. Never take your puppy out of the crate until they are quiet, just sit patiently, without speaking, until they are quiet for a few seconds, and you will teach them to be quiet in the cage. Every time you take your puppy out of the crate, take them immediately outside to the place you want them to go to the bathroom. Puppies find places to go to the bathroom with their feet. When I take them out to the yard, to grass, rocks or dirt, which ever you prefer , they get used to that feeling on their feet and it becomes part of their potty que or trigger. If you allow your puppy to have accidents on your rugs or hardwood floors even by accident then that can quickly become their potty texture preference. Same goes for potty pads. Using potty pads only teaches your puppy that going potty on absorbent material is Ok. Not a great idea. Try to avoid accidents at all costs. This way, you will teach your dog to go to the bathroom on command. This can be very convenient if you are traveling or leaving the house. Stay away from the puppy until they are done with their business, keep other animals, children and any other distraction away from them. As soon as your puppy is done, immediately give them a dog treat and praise, and praise and praise. Then, stand back and see if there is more forthcoming and repeat the process. Your Puppy At Night. .If your puppy cries in the middle of the night, get up, sit by the cage until they are quiet for a minute or two, then and only then, take them outside to their spot, give the potty command to go, and stand quietly ignoring them until they are done, do not instigate play or talk in an excited voice. When their bladder gets mature, this nighttime potty break should stop. Read my post about how to stop puppy whining and crying in the crate! Then after that every hour for a couple of days, 2 hours for a few days. When they finish going to the bathroom, praise and treats. Never hit or yell harshly at your puppy, or they will be afraid of you, and will develop fear of you, rather than trust. It may take months before your dog is completely housetrained, be patient, it is all worth it! When you feed your puppy, stroke their back and head, and tell them how good they are. You want them to be used to having someone touch them when they eat. When you sit down to eat, ignore the puppy, or put them in the crate. When you have to leave make sure to crate your puppy or put them in a x-pen setup, when you get home, even after a short absence, calmly take your puppy outside, talk gently to them, let them go to the bathroom, take them back inside and talk to them calmly, pet them slowly and try to be as calm as you can. If you come back and get them excited, they will try to recreate that excited feeling when you are gone, because that means you will be home soon. Puppies are like any baby, they need lots of attention, a dog that does not get attention, will get anxious and nervous and may chew and chew furniture, rugs, shoes, cords, anything to get rid of the anxiety. Read my post on crate and x-pen setups for potty training puppies! Taking your Puppy to Class Take your puppy to obedience school. An untrained puppy can be a nuisance instead of a pleasure. Another important benefit, perhaps the most important, is puppies will meet many new people and dogs in puppy class, which will greatly help socialize them, and make them more people and dog friendly. When I take them out to the yard, to grass, rocks or dirt, which ever you prefer , they get used to that feeling on their feet. When they get to your home, your puppy will be used to the surface that you want them to use. This teaches them that talking to you actually works. Going Potty Outside Step by Step — Take your puppy outside on leash, take them to their designated spot, put them down, and give the potty command, stand back without touching them, and wait a bit for them to go to the bathroom. When you know your puppy is done going to the bathroom, praise them, give them a treat or a snuggle and then take them immediately back into the house, unless you are going to play with them outside. Our Main Menu. That was a smart move on your part, because the Doodle is more than just adorably cute; you have a loving and highly intelligent dog who is eager to please and is curious about his or her new environment. What your puppy discovers is up to you, because your Labradoodle will learn whatever you teach it. Those lessons begin the moment it arrives in your home. Put yourself in the place of your puppy. Being anxious makes you nervous, and being nervous makes you. But where? And does it matter? What's in it for You - and Your Doodle? As it turns out, most dog owners say it does matter, a lot. The Labradoodle is a family dog, and as such, needs to live with its family, indoors. That means having a dog that has indoor manners and habits. The Labradoodle has to learn when and where it can go potty. Postponing potty training your Labradoodle will make the process much harder, and it will take longer if you wait to begin instructing your puppy on your expectations. Left untouched, they serve as beacons, or direction finders, to remind your dog to go in this location. Even if you clean it up, you might not be able to remove the scent that draws your pup back to the X that marks the spot. The answer to that question depends on you more than it does on your Labradoodle. Puppies are all about sleeping, waking, eating, playing and pottying. The most difficult part of the potty training process is being ever vigilant. You have to watch your Labradoodle constantly for signs that it needs to go potty. Training yourself to supervise your doodle may be the hardest part of all, but if you know the signs to look for and you have a strategic plan, your Doodle will become a housebroken member of the family, and a pleasure to be around or leave at home without worry that your carpet and floors will become soiled. Training a Labradoodle puppy to use a designated spot to relieve itself is a matter of age and bladder control versus time. Expecting a young pup to hold it for five or six hours sets him up for failure and up for disappointment, if not displeasure. Figure that your pup can hold its bladder and bowels one hour for each month of age, and then add one more hour. A three-month old puppy, for example, should be able to wait to do its business for one to three hours, plus one, or four hours. Your puppy may be able to go longer or need to potty sooner. Rather than wait until the last minute, take your dog out at the three-hour mark. They also have to go outside when they become excited. All training can be divided into one of two categories, regardless of the method used: ignoring or praising. If your Labradoodle has an accident in the house, scoop up the mess and take it outside to the spot you want her to use. After all, no one ever made a fuss about it until now. Dogs have an incredible sense of smell, and the spot in the house they used once will lure them again and again to do their business unless you remove all evidence of the act. On the other hand, praise your pup for pottying in the location you designated. You can give small treats as rewards. Offer tons of praise and a treat, and after 30 days, wean your pup off the treats. The praise will mean much more to your dog. So which method is best? The one that works. The crate recreates the den your puppy grew up in, and no dog wants to soil its own house if it can be helped. As a benefit, the crate also provides a safe break from all the action in the rest of the house, and sometimes your puppy will choose to hang out in the crate. Baby gates work the same way a crate works.

Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more! Understanding how dogs physically, mentally and emotionally develop from birth to 6 months — Part 1 — By Jennifer Broome, QK Owner I decided to write this article because I am amazed at the lack of understanding out there in our society when it comes to dogs. Our newer puppy programs have been incredibly successful with our diligent introduction of crate work, patience training, manners, proper socializing and obedience and it is wonderful to educate new owners. However, we sadly still see many dogs that just are handicapped mentally and emotionally as adolescents due to their owners lacking leadership and early puppy training to establish rules, confinement, patience and manners. I am someone who lives my life with dogs and for dogs. This article is not based on scientific research, veterinary information, or other technical sources rather it is based on my ongoing observations from a variety of experiences. Those include my own revolving pack of dogs over 25 years, my professional time at my kennel with dozens upon dozens dogs even upwards of at times as well as my countless hours training dogs at all levels from puppies to adolescents, problem dogs and sporting dogs from basic to advanced training. They do this for comfort, security and protection. Any good dog breeder equally has a whelping box which is typically a 4 foot by 4 foot box with sides, maybe a heated dish and nice bedding for Mom to birth her puppies. Pups are born into a sheltered environment and they feel secure. By 4 weeks Mom starts to wean her pups, all heck breaks loose as the pups now are very mobile, their eyes are opened and this weaning is the first big stressor in their lives. At this point puppy kibble is offered, the pups make a huge mess in their boxes, and soon they learn how to climb out. There is MUCH more that goes on during the whelping, nursing, puppy rearing and puppy development during these 8 weeks however I want to concentrate this article on what happens once the new owner acquires the pup. A very cleverly designed whelping box with escape resting area for Mom, sleeping area for pups and separate potty area. NOTE: I am talking about pups that come from responsible breeders and were raised in a safe, healthy environment. Sadly we see all too many rescue pups that were birthed by an already unstable, unhealthy mom, they were born under a shed, an alley, or at a puppy mill and their young lives are already stressed. Between 7 and 8 weeks is a great time to get a new puppy. I certainly do not oppose some breeders keeping pups longer I do NOT advocate pups going home before 7 weeks! As long as the pups are well monitored by the careful breeder, they can stay longer to mature more. YES, all puppies typically hate their crates at first. More like they hate the alone time as they are used to a pack of friends for safety and security. While the first week or 2 of crate training may be horrendous, noisy and stressful for you and puppy, once the pup learns to accept this alone time and controlled down time, it is one of the very best training achievements that you can master right away! There will be screaming, wailing, temper tantrums, messes in the crate and pup may sound like he is dying… BUT with patience, persistence and a good strategy crate training is typically easy to master. Why go through all of this stress? Why subject a puppy to this trauma!? Well, honestly think about it… as a baby did you sleep in a crib? Yes, that may work…. BUT what happens when you want to leave your house? Do you think that it is ok to leave a puppy home alone and loose with free roam or even confined to a room? An 8 week old puppy is about the same in maturity as a toddler. Would you leave a toddler home alone? A 6 month old puppy is like a 6 year old child. Again would you leave alone? A year old puppy is like an 8 to 10 year old child. Home alone? They are not even mature adults until 3 years old. That is like an 18 year human. We all made such great decisions and had complete maturity and responsibility at 18 right!!?? See where I am going with this? What does a crate help to accomplish? Forced down time, patience time, alone time, relaxation time. The pup can sleep or keep busy with a good chew toy to keep self-entertained. A tired puppy is a happy puppy is a happy owner! Pups often sleep upwards of 18 hours a day. Why not make those sleeping 18 hours safely confined to a crate? Maybe 8 hours overnight straight and the remaining 10 sleeping times divided up during the day. This type of schedule allows pup to be safely contained therefore not chewing, getting hurt or going potty in the house. It also enables the pup to feel secure and not just loose in a big scary area. Here is where most people go wrong, they feel the crate is cruel and they leave a pup out loose. Well, they could not be more wrong. Sadly, when a dog is left alone in an entire house, part of a house or even a room, the pup still feels the need to guard and protect that area. That is like asking a toddler to stay home alone and watch the house! Believe it or not the more rules and structure you can provide to your pup the more secure they feel! Puppies that learn to relax in a crate grow up into dogs that have a great off switch and can be loose to feel secure and safe. We talked about the importance and reasons for crate time, how about the human interactions? Do YOU instigate play jumping and biting by showing excitement around your pup. Do you rough house, play tug, chase or wrestle with your pup. Human interactions should be gentle in touch and kindness, however assertive to correct unwanted behaviors right away. If you want a bad behavior to stop, then use as little pressure as you can but as much as you need to in order to STOP the bad behavior. Just because he is a puppy does not mean he will outgrow biting, jumping, etc. Rather it will only get worse. Stop it right away. Wow I love this! I treat my dogs the same way. The more you stroke, pet, pat, or rough up a dog the more they will challenge you. Those are actually antagonistic interactions. How about you calmly, lightly, endearingly touch your pup. What spots can you find that sooth your pup to relax and fall asleep just by your touch? They close their eyes and relish in your touch. This gentle interaction calms, soothes and connects you to your dog and teaches them to chill, be still and respectful around humans. Sadly what do most people do? The wigglier a dog is, the more excited they are. Excitement in dogs is anxiety, so basically you are initiating a panic attack by causing your dog to quiver with stress. Why not use animal savvy and teach them your touch calms them. I promise! What does this mean? He or she can walk on a leash, they can learn to do stairs, get into a car, go into a crate by themselves, listen to the vacuum, and they can be exposed to early stressors and be just fine as long as you show a calm, strong, positive leadership! People are so quick to lift up their pups, do the work for them, make excuses or simply let them refuse to face a challenge. This only makes the pups better quitters and ones that show a very strong resistance with a fight, freeze or flight when asked to tackle simple physical challenge. So fellow dog lovers, I hope that this article gave you some things to think about! Whether you are getting a new puppy or can go back and think about the mistakes you may have previously made, our goal at QK is to help you better understand your dog, how they think and what you can do to help be a better leader. In turn I promise your dog will be happier, healthier and better behaved. Look ahead in the next series of this topic to explore the 6 month pup and how they grow, mature and develop. For heating the pups in the whelping box particle board construction with adjustable entrance and pig rails , we have a lectro-kennel pad in part of it. There is a window into the rest of the shop from the room; for mama dogs' sake, I wish we had a window to the outside.But it's not a kennel setup, so it's not perfect. The pups stay in this room for weeks.When they are big enough to move outside, they spend the nights in a chain-link fenced kennel about 8 x 13 feet on gravel. If they have to be kenneled while we're home, then we can open that up to an adjacent kennel the same size. Puppy pen- I wouldn't use hogwire. We've had pups almost hang themselves in the stuff really young pups can hang up in diamond chain link too ; albeit I think the hogwire type fence we used had smaller increments than regular hogwire. Anyways, we supervised them closely when they were in this pen. Size-wise I think the largest you can provide, the better, as long as it's safe. We've used 10x10 too but it just seemed too small especially when they were weeks old. The cement blocks should work fine. Our puppy pens are on the grass and then we just move it around the yard when the grass seems to be getting too worn out.

french bulldog puppys - Your dog may suffer from indigestion if they are fed too late at night. A Boxer may struggle to acquire weight at times. Having three meals each day, including snacks, can help during this time. Adult Boxers should be fed in the morning, noon, and evening. Scheduled feeding times should be established early on to prevent weight-related diseases. Adult Boxers on a two-meal diet should eat in the morning and evening. Never let your dog exercise vigorously after a large meal, especially if they eat rapidly. This prevents bloating , intestinal obstruction, and other serious digestive problems. Introduce fewer carbs and consider nourishing their intestines and giving them micronutrients that help fight off disease-causing microorganisms. The following is a top-notch selection of Boxer food: Dry Food: Your best bet is to feed your Boxer dog grain-free kibble or dry kibble. Some even advocate dog food with human-grade ingredients. High-quality kibble containing animal protein formulated specifically for the growth and development of lean muscle mass in Boxers. Wet Food: Wet food is another commercial dog food option. If you want raw feeding for your Boxer, be sure to consult a veterinarian first, as raw diets can be tricky to prepare. Home-Cooked Diet: Aside from raw food, you can feed your Boxer home-cooked food as well. Always get your meat and other ingredients from reputable butchers and merchants to avoid potential problems. There are benefits and drawbacks to each of these dog food options mentioned above. But, for the most part, these are the best food options for the Boxer. If you are in doubt, seek the advice of an animal nutritionist or veterinarian. However, Boxers are susceptible to skin allergies caused by these products. To have a grain-free diet for your dog, you should look out for ingredients like brown rice, wheat, corn, and barley. Chocolate: While chocolate is a delicious treat for us humans, it can be harmful to your Boxer. The stimulants in chocolates, known as methylxanthines , make them toxic for dogs. It could be fatal if your dog has consumed cocoa powder, cocoa butter, or cooking chocolate. Fatty Meals: Pancreatitis outbreaks in dogs can be blamed on fatty meals. A veterinarian should always be consulted before feeding a dog a new diet. Call a veterinarian immediately if you believe that your Boxer dog has consumed something hazardous. Some dogs may have stomach upset and even appetite loss if you suddenly switch to a new high-quality food or diet. This shift should occur within a five- to seven-day time window. American Kennel Club AKC advocates starting with 25 percent of the new food for your Boxer and gradually increasing it until all of the old food has been replaced with fresh food, based on the same ratio. Below is a table showing what the AKC recommends as a standard diet transition plan for most dog breeds, including Boxers: Day. Yet underneath that strong and active exterior is a lot of labor and commitment to protecting their loved ones. When it comes to maintaining their health, you need to understand how much to feed a Boxer puppy. We have included a Boxer puppy feeding chart to help you take care of this breed. The daily food intake for a Boxer may range from one cup to four cups. Meal sizes for Boxers depend not just on weight but also on the sort of food they eat. Due to their medium size, boxer puppies need three daily meals and around four cups of food every day. Keep in mind that RER is only a rough estimate of how many calories your dog requires per day; other variables, including their age and activity level, will need to be included in as well. Keeping the puppy clean and warm is essential during this time, as is giving it enough milk or formula to help it thrive. Choose a premium puppy food that has been developed with their unique nutritional requirements in mind. Provide modest, regular meals three to four times a day. At the beginning, feed the puppy just a quarter to a half cup every day, and gradually increase the quantity as it grows. Always have clean water available, and keep an eye out for any symptoms of food intolerance or gastrointestinal distress. To keep them healthy, give them high-quality puppy food in many little meals throughout the day. Exercise, socializing, and the introduction of obedience training should all be high priorities. Keep a close eye on their eating habits and weight gain, and alter their food intake accordingly. This is a pivotal time for training and socializing, so be sure you provide lots of both. It is important to keep feeding them three times a day, and to stick with a high-quality puppy food. Provide around 2 and a half cups of food daily, split between three meals. Starting now is a great opportunity to introduce more advanced training methods like obedience or agility programs. Throughout a day, give them around 2 and a half cups of food. This is a pivotal time for further education and integration into society. Feed them around two and a half to three cups each day. Throughout this phase, they are still learning new skills and interacting with others, making it an essential part of their development. Provide two meals daily, adjusting the quantity of food based on their weight. Maintain a program of regular exercise and training, and watch out for any signs of age-related health decline. Boxer pups need a high-protein, moderate-fat diet for optimal growth and energy. Bone health may be supported by making sure the meal has enough calcium and phosphorus. Depending on its age and degree of activity, the calorie requirements of a Boxer puppy may range from around to 1, per day. A Boxer puppy requires between — calories per day when they are 8 weeks old, and — calories per day when they are 6 months old. Authentic meats and seafood, whole grains, and produce should all be included as ingredients on the label. Puppies of different ages have different dietary needs and feeding schedules. A Boxer puppy of 6 weeks old has to be fed times a day, with each meal consisting of only a few bites. Puppies need to be fed three times a day until they are three months old, then twice a day until they are 12 months old. Training and housebreaking are aided by establishing a consistent eating pattern. Yet, the two are not identical. Dry kibble offers the advantages of being portable, simple to store, and lasting for a long time. Crunchy kibble is good for your teeth because it encourages chewing, which may reduce plaque. Yet, some pups may prefer wet food because to its increased moisture content and inherent tastiness. In addition, it may help you stay hydrated, which is crucial to your health. The preference and dietary requirements of each puppy are unique, thus the choice between kibble and wet food must be made carefully. An animal hospital is the best place to get advice on what to feed a Boxer adult dog. Many factors might be at play if a Boxer puppy suddenly stops eating. Illness, stress, dental issues, and even just a change in habit may all cause lack of appetite in Boxer pups. Sometimes getting a puppy to eat may be as simple as presenting a more appetizing food, feeding it by hand, or making mealtime less of a stressful experience. Leaving food available for a puppy to graze on all day is considered free feeding, which is not advised for Boxer pups. Since free-feeding might induce overeating and weight gain, it is not recommended for Boxer pups. High-quality protein from genuine chicken initially supports muscular growth. This natural dog food has all the nutrition your puppy needs with whole grains, garden vegetables, and fruit. Pros Real chicken first ingredient for protein Contains DHA and ARA for cognitive function Wholesome whole grains, garden veggies, and fruit A blend of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals No chicken by-product meals, corn, wheat, soy 2. Real chicken is the first ingredient in this tasty, nutritious puppy chow, delivering protein for strong muscles and a healthy heart. It also has a SmartBlend of high-quality, readily digested omega-6 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals for a lustrous coat and healthy skin. Four antioxidant sources for strong immune system High-quality, easily digestible ingredients. Delicious crunchy bites and tender meaty morsels. Cons Contains some corn and wheat 3. This high-quality kibble for pups under 1 year old has actual chicken as the first ingredient and no chicken by-product meal, maize, wheat, or soy. Omega-3 fatty acids like DHA help brain and ocular development and deliver protein. Pros High-quality protein for muscle development and growth No GMO, chicken by-product meal, corn, wheat, or soy. Brain and eye growth from omega-3 fatty acids like DHA. This formula contains high-quality protein from lamb and omegarich fish oil to create lean muscles and enhance brain and eyesight development. Pros Protein-rich lamb is the first component. Omega-3 fish oil DHA for puppy brain and visual development. Calcium, phosphorus, and other minerals for bones and teeth, Vitamin A and omega-6 fatty acids for skin and coat Cons Lamb, may not suit all pups 5. Pros Flaxseed and salmon oil contain omega-3 fatty acids Grain-free Created by vets with protein, fat, and minerals Cons Not for ingredient-allergic pets. Raw feeding a Boxer puppy is a contentious issue with no clear consensus on whether or not it is healthy for the dog. Yet, some owners and vets are worried about the potential for bacterial contamination and nutritional imbalances in a raw diet, despite the fact that others feel it might give advantages including better digestion and coat health. Also, choose a reliable raw food supplier. The typical growth rate for a Boxer puppy is pounds per week for the first several months of life. A Boxer puppy, depending on its size and gender, may gain pounds by the time it is 6 months old. To make sure your Boxer puppy is developing normally, keep an eye on his or her size and weight. A constant supply of cool, fresh water is essential for the health of a Boxer puppy. Puppy development necessitates that they consume more water than an adult dog would. Puppies need half an ounce to an ounce of water per pound of body weight every day. A Boxer puppy weighing 20 pounds, for instance, should need 10 to 20 ounces of water each day. Puppy water consumption should be closely monitored to prevent dehydration. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. Your vet can run the necessary tests and examine your puppy to determine the cause. Male Adult male Boxers are slightly larger than females. Males weigh an average of 60 to 70 pounds, requiring 3 to 5 cups of food. This weight range requires 2 to 4 cups of food per day. On top of a caloric increase, an active Boxer will also need a protein-rich diet to feed their muscles. A protein-friendly, calorie-dense dry kibble should be offered, and you should follow the instructions based on their weight. Image Credit: boxerdogmadness, Pixabay Sedentary Boxers tend to become overweight quickly if you overfeed them—blame their voracious appetites and love for snacking. This food offers a low-calorie alternative without skipping out on necessary nutrition. However, what really happens is that it decreases their metabolism rate, slowing their energy. This slowing process can cause weight gain if you continue to feed them the same amount of food. The puppies always get the nutrients first. So, if you have a food that is lacking in certain areas, the mother will suffer. Image Credit: Pixel-Shot, Shutterstock Boxer Feeding Guide for Seniors Just like puppyhood has special dietary requirements when dogs reach a certain age, so does old age. Seniors need to eat foods that cater to their life stage to keep them capable, happy, and healthy for their remaining years. A Boxer transitions into the senior category, usually around 6—9 years of age. If you have your dog on dog food for all life stages, it might be appropriate to continue this diet. A lower-calorie food will also help to prevent your dog from becoming overweight. If your senior has specific health issues, it might be best to feed them a specific diet that helps with their condition. As time goes on, you can work with your vet to accommodate their special dietary needs. It is formulated specifically for later years. Some dogs have voracious appetites that are never satisfied. It seems like you barely get it into the bowl before they suck it up like a vacuum cleaner. Free-Feeding—this practice involves making food available to your dog at all times. The danger with this method is that large dogs like Boxers are susceptible to bloat, or gastric dilation-volvulus GDV. Bloat happens when the dog eats too quickly, causing gas to fill the abdomen. It can be fatal. This method can also make overeating seem like the norm, which causes bad manners. Feeding your dog smaller, more frequent meals is a better alternative to free-feeding. Slow-Feeder Bowls—a great way to slow your pooch down, allowing them to digest their food properly, is to give them food in a slow feeder. It gives your Boxer unique designs to eat around, stimulating their mental curiosity while slowing them down. What Foods Are Bad for Boxers? Some things to look out for are: Corn. And, I'll go out on a limb to say I bet those early Boxers ate dog food with less additives and fillers than found in today's formulas. That is of course, unless you're armed with information on sourcing the best possible modern foods for feeding Boxer dogs! Adult Boxer dogs require 1, to 2, calories of good quality dog food per day depending on age and activity, with an averagely active adult dog somewhere midrange. Being a muscular breed that is highly active, Boxers require quality protein in food at a slightly higher level than many less active breeds. Credence should be given to invest in a quality kibble dog food with high protein and caloric value or go with a Raw Dog Diet , especially for active Boxers. Bloat Concerns This breed is prone to bloat, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus , so grain free kibble and raw diets are a great option for feeding Boxer dogs. Carbohydrate and fat levels are less a concern when feeding Boxer dogs, yet Boxers are know to put on extra weight rather easily. Low carbohydrate diets should be fed to overweight dogs and the breed ideally should be slim, stocky and muscular. To learn how we choose quality kibble formulas, or for help selecting your own, visit our Feeding Dry Dog Food section. For a great alternative to kibble and food we highly recommend for Boxer dogs, visit our Raw Feeding Dogs section. Supplements As with any medium to large breed dog, providing a food that includes supplements adds additional insurance towards good health. To maintain your Boxer's joint health, foods containing chondroitin and glucosamine are awesome. If your kibble doesn't include these compounds, they can be supplemented separately with a product such a Cosequin. For a shiny coat and to promote skin health, foods with Omega-6 fatty acids are wonderful. For control of inflammation or arthritis pain in older Boxer dogs, support the heart, kidneys and stabilize overall mood, Omega-3 fatty acids are great to see on an ingredients panel. Just like Cosequin however, Omegas can be fed separately and as needed by simply squeezing a gel capsule over your Boxer's meal. In summary, feeding Boxer dogs about 2. Amount fed may go up or down based on your dog's size, weight, age and overall daily activity. Feeding Boxer Dog Puppies Quality formulated all life stages food and several small meals a day for a Boxer dog puppy. Your Boxer puppy will grow rapidly through the first six to eight months. Similar to any medium or large breed puppy that is susceptible to bone growth issues like hip dysplasia, feeding a quality all life stages, large breed puppy formula, or Raw Dog Food diet will help regulate growth. Boxer puppies can eat! Two to three regulated servings per day is recommended, do not free freed. There's an unwritten rule in among Boxer enthusiasts to feed at least twice as much food daily that your puppy would eat as an adult, In multiple regulated servings. Begin by following feeding guidelines per the label provided on your chosen Kibble Dog Food Formula. Increase or decrease the amount fed by assessing your Boxer's body weight and energy as he or she grows. From age 6 to 8 months on, the rapid growth phase should cease and while still technically a puppy, your Boxer can be transitioned to an adult diet. This includes higher protein foods yet many who were already feeing an all life stages formula can continue with the same. As always with both puppies and adult Boxers, keep an eye on your dog's weight. You should always see a trace of the last rib with this breed and they should appear slim, yet muscular. Adjust amount fed per serving accordingly to maintain that perfect Boxer appearance. And lastly, with all dog breeds that are prone to bloat, feeding Boxer dogs several small meals a day is a safer bet than free feeding, or one HUGE serving! Don't forget to check out our Feeding Dry Dog Food articles which focus on selecting a quality kibble for your Boxer dog. And, if there's another mid-size dog in your pack, Feeding Medium Size Dogs provides access to a library of breed specific feeding guides. For help choosing kibble dog food for your Boxer Dog plus additional info about raw feeding, visit our Homepage for quick banner access to the major sections of our website! Every bite of food will be detrimental or beneficial to this breed's health. Overview Food is fuel both for a growing Boxer pup and large strong adult Boxer dogs. The type of food that you offer for both meals and snacks has a direct affect on your Boxer's health both now and in the future. Also of importance is a feeding schedule and making sure that you offer the proper amounts. This section will cover everything you need to know in order to provide a well-balanced, nutritious diet for your Boxer puppy, adult, or senior. How Often to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog Let's look at a summary and then the details: Puppies under 12 weeks: free-fed Puppies and up to the 2-year mark: 3 meals per day Adults 2 years and up: 1 to 2 meals per day Young pups 8 to 12 weeks old: Very young pups, and particularly those that are a bit underweight, should be free-fed for at least the first month at their new home. This is the method of having fresh food accessible at all times. For a pup still trying to gain their bearings, you may need to lead them to their bowl throughout the day. Note that food should be thrown out and the bowl washed and then refilled several times per day as opposed to just topping off the food since pups may not be interested in stale food. Growing pup to 2 year mark: It's best to get a Boxer onto a feeding schedule as soon as possible. Schedules of anything feeding, exercise, sleep time, etc. Young Boxers often struggle a bit to fill out and during the 1 to 2-year mark Boxers can go through a 'skinny phase', so 3 meals per day, plus snacks, can work well during this time. Adults 2 years and up: Most adult Boxers that have reached their final adult weight and height do well with 2 meals per day, plus snacks. If snacks are regular and of substance, a Boxer may be perfectly content with 1 main meal per day. Note that this breed is prone to bloat, so you want to avoid letting a Boxer get so hungry that he rapidly gulps his food down. If that is the case, increase the frequency of meals or use a slow-feed bowl; stainless-steel is best, something like Mr. How Much to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog The exact serving size that is appropriate for each Boxer varies and depends mainly on age and current weight but also is affected by activity level, health status, type of food wet vs dry , and individual metabolism. This said, there are general guidelines: Puppies usually require about 55 calories for each pound of body weight. Young pups might eat a bit over a cup a day, older pups can eat up to 3 cups a day. Adults need fewer calories per pound of body weight than their younger counterparts, about .Depending on an adult Boxer dog's size, food is usually in the 3 to 5 cup per day range. To know exactly how much to give your Boxer, know your dog's weight. Don't guess since that can be wildly off. Then, look at the feeding guidelines on the bag of kibble; these are listed by age and weight and are usually pretty spot on. Dry Kibble vs Wet Canned Though many Boxers may prefer wet canned food, dry kibble is better to maintain healthy teeth and gum and a strong jaw. You'll still have to provide some level of at-home dental care , but the crunch of a hard kibble will work to some extent to remove plaque. Additionally, dry food seems to keep the stools firmer and healthier. If your Boxer is a finicky eater and balks at dry food, try mixing in just a bit of canned stick with the same brand or add just a bit of water or low-sodium chicken or beef broth. Grain vs Grain-free It's wasn't that long ago that putting a dog on a grain-free diet wasn't much of a big deal. Some grains, especially those with gluten, can cause excessive gas , upset stomach, and other issues. And, some dogs are allergic to wheat or gluten which can manifest as itching and other skin problems. But recently, a suspected link between certain grain-free dog foods and dilated cardiomyopathy DCM, a canine heart disease caused veterinary experts to take pause. And, since Boxers are one of the breeds prone to DCM, it's important to understand where things are on this. Though it was first thought that any grain-free diet may be the cause, the current thought is that it is a BEG diet, meaning boutique small specialty brands that have exotic meats non-traditional meats like alligator, kangaroo, bison, venison, etc. Many more studies need to be done for conclusive answers to be found. For now, it is recommended to offer healthy grains and this can be done while avoiding gluten if your Boxer has an issue with it. Navigating the Many Choices of Dog Foods What to Avoid: Many brands are guilty of having at least one of these elements that you do not want your Boxer's food to have: No grains at all. Until conclusive studies are complete, play it safe and offer a kibble with some level of healthy grains unless the veterinarian recommends otherwise Boxer needs to be on a specific grain-free diet, etc. Synthetic preservatives. These can be toxic. Butylated hydroxyanisole BHA , butylated hydroxytoluene BHT , and ethoxyquin, just to name a few, are linked to behavioral issues, organ damage, and some forms of cancer. Artificial coloring. Common dyes like Yellow 5 and 6 and Blue 2 are linked to behavioral and health issues. Artificial flavor enhancers. MSG is one of the worst, it is linked to anxiety, rapid heartbeat, and breathing issues. Generic animal digest, meats, oils, or fats. When anything is listed as 'animal', it is derived from a 4-D animal: dead, dying, diseased or disabled animals and can literally be any meat from any animal at all: minks from mink farms, roadkill, zoo animals, expired meats from supermarkets and butcher shops, etc. Fillers are cheap ingredients that are put into dog food to bulk it up but they have little to no nutritional value. The 'food' goes right through their system; a dog will eat but be hungry again soon afterward and this is one cause of coprophagia eating feces. These are the animal parts that are not fit for human consumption and includes such things as spinal tissue, lungs, spleens, hooves, tails, undeveloped eggs, etc. Made outside North America since meats from overseas can be questionable. The kibble will be preserved using a vitamin blend often listed as mixed tocopherals and will be naturally flavored and colored. Some level of grains. Grains that are generally well-tolerated include rice, oatmeal, and quinoa. Wholesome real meats, veggies, and fruits. Some ingredients sourced from Norway are fine; this country has very strict guidelines. If you are not sure what is in your Boxer's food, investigate it. Know about grain content and the presence or lack of additives and subpar ingredients. Recommended Dog Food for Boxers Please note that the following recommendations are formulas with some level of healthy grains; if you did not read the previous ' Grain vs Grain-free ' you may wish to do so before continuing on. This meets all of the requirements of what you're looking for. There are no synthetic preservatives; vitamins are used instead shown as mixed tocopherals. The grains in this formula are generally very well tolerated: quinoa technically a seed , oatmeal, and barley. There are 3 different recipes to choose from: beef, chicken, or lamb. Other ingredients include peas, salmon, carrots, apples, blueberries, and flaxseed. There are good levels of glucosamine chondroitin vital for joint health , antioxidants, and omega fatty acids important for skin and coat health. There are no by-products, fillers, or generic meats or oils and this is sourced and made in the USA. For this one, the base is chicken a very classic tasty protein that most dogs love , along with oatmeal, brown rice, ground barley, peas, flaxseed, carrots, tomato pomace, spinach, sweet potatoes, apples, and blueberries. All other ingredients shown on the label are either vitamins and minerals or natural preservatives. This has no wheat, corn, soy, meat by-products, artificial flavors, colors or preservatives, and this is made in the USA. This brand offers a top-quality formula that is gluten-free. There is no wheat, corn, soy, by-products, artificial flavors, artificial colors, or chemical preservatives. The base is chicken and brown rice and other ingredients include white rice, oatmeal, rice bran, avocado, flax seed, herring, and kelp. It has good levels of omega fatty acids and antioxidants. The one trade-off for having it be gluten-free is that it does not contain any fruit; however, it does have all required vitamins and minerals and you can always offers a small amount of fresh fruit as snacks. Homemade Vs Commercial Commercial dog food is convenient and, if you choose a superior brand, it will ensure that your Boxer receives all needed nutrients and is on a well-rounded and well-balanced diet. And, home cooked food gives you complete control over what your Boxer eats and does not eat and can be tweaked to satisfy a finicky eater. So, there are pros and cons to each. Whether you opt for a top-quality kibble or you use good cuts of meat and fish and fresh produce in homemade meals, neither option is super-cheap. Because, of course, you get what you pay for. But, if you buy in bulk and lean toward frozen vegetables and fruits, home cooking may be a bit less expensive. That said, when you prepare meals at home, you'll need to offer a good daily vitamin and mineral supplement even good brands of kibble need to add this in because it's nearly impossible for a dog to receive all nutrients just from food alone. Some of the foods that can be incorporated into meals include: Proteins: Chicken, turkey, veal, beef, fish mackeral, haddock, salmon, whitefish, cod, and others , eggs, and certain beans kidney, lima Vegetables: Carrots, broccoli in moderation , potato, sweet potato, sugar snap peas, green beans, spinach Fruits: Blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin Grains: Quinoa, oatmeal, rice Related Articles: Best Snacks, Chews, and Treats for a Boxer - A great rundown of the difference between these 3 things and top recommendations. How many calories does a Boxer dog need - Requirements based on age, size and activity level. Recommendations to lower or raise intake. Boxer dog weight issues - This breed can become overweight, usually due to a combination of eating too much and being sedentary. Boxer begging behavior - Boxers are pretty good at playing their humans and it's easy to fall into the trap of giving in to begging. Read how to stop the cycle. Choosing the Best Bowl for a Boxer - Size, height, material and design are all important. How much food to feed a boxer puppy How much food to feed a boxer puppy May 15, Let Everyone know For decades the Boxer dogs have been loved and cherished all over the world. Their imposing build along with their gentle and playful personalities captured the hearts of many dog lovers. This broad and muscular breed burns a massive amount of energy in their day-to-day life course, and thereby their diet and feeding formulas are subject to additional requirements. So the food to feed a boxer puppy must be taken in to consideration. To provide the boxer with quality and meaningful life, it is rather important to know how much food they should be fed, what and how often they should be fed. Concerns when feeding a Boxer puppy Boxers are a medium to large dog breed of German descent. Bred to bait bulls in the 19th century, they were fed a lot healthier than they are today, and their dietary habits were managed better. They are, by nature, lovely and enthusiastic, not to mention, far more involved when they are puppies. Their dietary requirements are a little different from other dog races due to certain anatomical variations. What food to Feed a Boxer Puppy Although it is undoubtedly not a fact that boxers are picky eaters, they may have special nutrition requirements when it comes to their feeding. Puppies typically need a nutritious feeding formula with a minimum of .Also, calcium and phosphorus are needed to maximize bone growth for your boxing puppy with ratios of at least or even .However, more is not always better. This will keep your Boxer pup from developing joint problems like osteochondritis or hip dysplasia. Boxers are also vulnerable to food-related allergies that can occur as food intolerances such as itching and inflammation. So choosing the right feed for your Boxer Pup might necessitate some experimentation. And indefinitely the feeding rate varies with the growth of your boxer. Boxer puppies, however, demand about 55 calories of food per pound of body weight, from a general viewpoint. A Boxer puppy is likely to become a medium to large muscle and a lean dog between 50 and 70 pounds if it feeds the correct food type and amounts. Since they are a highly active muscle species, they need high-quality protein foods to feed their energy slightly more than other less active breeds. Many dog food brands have just 25 percent protein formulas, which could prove to be inadequate for a Boxer puppy. It is therefore critical that you do your research and invests in a feeding formula of good quality. There is a common misconception that Boxer puppies should be fed twice as much food as they can consume as adults. It is still a good idea, however, to weigh your puppy every week or every two weeks and change the food intake accordingly. Some puppies may be susceptible to elevated protein, in which case food with moderate protein and fat content is recommended. Besides, Boxers will require a Calcium-to-Phosphorous ratio as near as possible to .In the first 6 to 8 months, your puppy can develop steadily in size and maturity. When your puppy grows older, you should decrease food consumption progressively as it can go longer without food. Kibble specifically intended for Boxer puppies is what is widely recommended as a choice of food as it helps preserve both intestinal and oral health and is nutritious. Some Boxer puppies tend to be a bit sensitive to food, in which case you may have to try a few options before you settle on your favorite puppy. Food with Omega-6 fatty acids is great for a sparkling coat and to support skin health. During their development, Boxer puppies need the recommended quantities of high-quality food and feeding formulas in different ranges. They can be fed up to 4 times a day between 2 and 4 months. Individual pups can still be eaten 3 times daily between 4 and 6 months. The frequency is reduced 2 to 3 times daily over 6 months. It is also possible to maintain this level of food in adulthood. This is the stage where you can teach your pup some food or sleep or exercise discipline and whatnot. In these cases, three meals a day can be considered. However, 2 meals per day are the preferred feeding schedule for your dog to train. You can feel some pressure from its ribcage or spine as you place your hands on the chest or back of your puppy. And you can encounter several problems by over-feeding your puppy. Bloating Bloating is a problem that is particularly common among boxer puppies. It can happen if you feed your puppy too much or too little. Constant bloating may contribute to other more severe gastrointestinal problems that could prove fatal to your dog. For this reason, boxer puppies are often recommended eating kibble-free foods and raw diets as they use more plant-based protein and carbohydrate formulas. Other food sources containing items such as grain, wheat, rice, and oats are frequently discouraged and may trigger excess gas in boxer puppies, which in turn causes bloating problems. Obesity As previously described, boxers are ideally supposed to have a slim, muscular build. They are not specifically susceptible to gaining too much weight, which is why the level of carbohydrates and fats in their food formulations is less of concern. However, boxer puppies or any dog are considered to be opportunistic when it comes to feeding. They will also continue to eat as long as they have food at their mercy. Boxer puppies may end up overeating for these reasons, which could cause them to become obese and overweight. This, in essence, will make their joints weak and cause arthritis, heart disease, liver disease, and kidney problems. There may be a variety of reasons why your puppy does not eat enough. Very frequently, loss of appetite is also one of the first symptoms of a more severe illness. This can also occur due to various reasons, such as; Anorexia Anorexia is indeed a problem for dogs, just as it is for human beings. Symptoms of anorexia include fever, pain, shortness of breath, and tiredness. In certain cases, it can also induce changes in the size of the organ and the weak lungs. If left untreated, it can end up being fatal to your dog. Lack of exercise may also be a source of anorexia, which is why exercise has become so crucial to your puppy. They will likely burn calories at the same amount of consumption to maintain balance. Short Life Span If you consistently underfed your Boxer puppy during its stage of growth, it will most likely grow into an undernourished and extremely unhealthy boxer, with far less engagement and energy than most other boxers. This could also affect his life span. Since Boxers are muscular dogs with a reasonable level of activity, they do need a constant supply of nutrients as described above, otherwise, they will not accompany you for a long time. Recap Boxer puppies need great care and consideration when it comes to their diet since they have some particular and unique dietary needs compared to other dogs with the same level of activity. What to Avoid when feeding your Boxer Puppy? There are no grains at all. Until ultimate research has been completed, play it safe and offer kibble with some level of healthy grain unless otherwise recommended by the veterinarian Boxer Pup must be on a specific grain-free diet, etc. Another one is synthetic preservatives, which could certainly be toxic. Artificial Coloring Ingredients, Blue 02, Yellow 05, and 06 are the most common types of dyes that we can find in feeding formulas that cause behavioral problems in puppies. Additional taste enhancers like MSG, which is one of the worst taste enhancers, are linked to anxiety, stress, rapid heartbeat, and respiratory problems. Fillers are inexpensive additives that are mixed into dog food to pump it up but have little or no nutrient properties. A dog could eat a massive amount of food and yet still be hungry again shortly after. Because of that fast metabolism function, this has become one of the major causes of Coprophagies eating feces. By-products — There are animal parts such as some intestines that are not suitable even for a boxer. Consumption and feeding formulas that involve such food might cause troubles with spinal tissue, lung failure, spleen removal, issues in hooves and tails and undeveloped ovum, etc. Male boxer puppies would be around 17 inches or more during their 6th month while females will be slightly smaller at around 16 inches. Birth to 3 weeks old When your boxer pup is still very young, they should be with their mom and be nursed properly. Keep in mind that your boxer should get equal amounts of milk, especially if they belong to a large litter. Observe the litter for any signs of bullying or some puppies being overpowered. This is also the case if the mother is too thin to supply milk to all of her pups. When your puppy reaches 3 weeks of age, you might start to notice rapid growth. That is normal for boxer puppies since the breed tends to grow faster than most dogs. Boxer pups of this age still need to be nursed. To do this mix 1 part puppy food with 3 parts water in a bowl and offer it to them. It also helps to train your pups to only eat when they are hungry. A good rule of thumb in terms of scheduling for the water and puppy food mixture would be 3 to 4 times a day. You want the process to be a pleasant one for your boxer pup. This is when the weaning process becomes slightly visible. The mother dog will slightly let go of her little ones for them to be independent. Keep them away from dangerous objects and supervise them as much as possible. Ensure that their food is easy to chew to avoid eating problems. If your vet allows for it, you can add some veggies or other food ingredients that are deemed safe for pups as advised. Your puppy will need more nutrition by this time so they need to learn to eat solid puppy food. After all, 6 weeks old is a time for exploration, playtime, and energy bursts whether indoors or outdoors. You may also want to feed them more if they spend a lot more time playing or running around. Once your puppy reaches 7 weeks old, they should already know how to eat their solid food. Give them the serving somewhere between 3 and 4 times a day depending on your available time and their hunger pangs. Your boxer pups will also get nursed less often during this time, as the mother will likely just stand up while giving milk reluctantly to her little ones. She might even run away from them at some point, allowing them to become more independent. Keep their meals served at 3 to 4 times a day, with at least 2 or more cups per day, divided equally. You can also follow the chart that we mentioned above, especially if your boxer pup is quite the active fellow. Having more cups a day is important for puppies that have far less weight than others. You can also ask your vet about how many calories they need depending on their energy levels. Know the activity levels of your puppy and adjust accordingly. If your boxer pup is always on the go, they might need more calories than usual. Moreover, a 9-week-old boxer pup might also roam around and pick various objects to ensure that their surroundings are kept puppy-proofed. Bloating comes from excessively gobbling food so make sure they only get equal portions for their daily meal schedules. While we did say that boxer pups during this period are likely to eat twice as much as a regular adult boxer, always observe if your puppy is getting overweight by checking their waist. Talk to your vet if you suspect your pup might be gaining too many pounds. Always keep in mind to avoid bloating problems with your pup by ensuring the schedule gets followed. Continue with the usual puppy food or as instructed by your vet. Recommended Food Now that your boxer puppy has a set schedule, what should you feed them? Here are some suggestions: 1. Quality Kibble Like most active breeds, dry kibble is the way to go if you want affordable and easy-to-store food for your boxer puppy. Worry not — there are grain-free options in the market. Wet or canned food If you want added calories for an active boxer puppy, consider wet food. After all, canned puppy food is tasty to most dogs, especially during their puppy years, since the smell is enough to get them eating. Omega fatty acid foods Boxers are prone to cardiomyopathy, which can be lessened if they take foods and supplements rich in omega fatty acids, such as fish. Talk to your vet for a diet plan that will help lessen the likelihood of such eye problems. Glucosamine foods Hip dysplasia is common in boxers so we recommend foods that are rich in glucosamine, such as chicken feet and seafood. Consider looking for either kibble or canned puppy food that has glucosamine to help prevent hip dysplasia and other joint problems. Look for primarily meat-based puppy food rather than cheap commercial brands. Commercial brands out there may have more corn and wheat than protein from meat. Instead, look for slightly pricier yet more quality brands of puppy food for your boxer. And, as usual, you should also stay away from human foods that are toxic to dogs, such as grapes, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, artificial sweeteners, and the like. FAQs on Feeding a Boxer Puppy Boxer pups need extra care when it comes to their diet — here are some frequently asked questions with regards to feeding them properly: When do I switch to adult food for my Boxer puppy? By this time, you can slowly transition your puppy to adult food in portions. Should I give my Boxer puppy supplements? As a workaholic dog breed, boxer pups need protein and other nutrients, which are fortunately already in most quality dog food brands. Raw feeding a Boxer puppy A raw diet is okay for boxer puppies provided that you get expert advice from your vet about it. Raw feeding is no walk in the park since you need to do the math on calories and nutrients as compared to commercial food. Also, take note of food handling to avoid bacterial infection, especially if you live in areas where humidity is high. If you need help, talk to a breeder or someone you know tried raw feeding before — especially for puppies. Conclusion A healthy and energetic boxer puppy will be a satisfied life companion if you feed them properly. All you need to know is that boxers are typically workaholics so they need to have a balanced diet with sufficient calories based on their activities. We hope this helped you figure out how much to feed your boxer puppy!


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french bulldog puppys - How to Train a week-old Labrador Puppy? Training older dogs is quite a difficult or nearly impossible task. The age of 2 months or 8 weeks is the best time for your pup to begin its training. This is because your pup has grown enough to be independent and can also understand the cues of the owner. How to Train an 8-week-old Labrador Puppy? You must keep things simple in the beginning because the pups are already learning the behavior of their owners. Below are some basic things that you can teach to your 2-month-old Labrador puppy. Follow Me — This command can be taught by walking a few steps here and there while holding a treat. This will allow you to go out to different places or visit friends comfortably with your dog. Deject Biting — You will use 2 treats to train your dog. You can rarely use a simple punishment, like ignoring, if the biting was hard. At this age, it is assumed that a Labrador puppy is already familiar with some basic things. Hence, you can teach your canine friend some simple commands. Heal — As of now, your dog should be habitual to follow you. In this command, you will use a dog leash and grab it in your left hand. Recall — This command is used to recall a pup to repeat the previously performed training. In this command, we can use a whistle, clapping, or any other sound as a cue. More Socialization — Make your Lab more comfortable in crowded places. Also, visit friends frequently so that your pooch can become comfortable around strange people. Then, add more twists by taking an object and using the touch command so that the pup touches the target. At this age, a Lab is considered mature enough to respond to some positioning commands as well as verbal instructions. Sit and Stay — Simply use a treat while your pup is in a standing position and move it towards the floor. For teaching this command, hold the treat for some time before feeding after your pooch has sat on the ground. Fetch — A 4-month-old Labrador puppy knows how to get to a target. If the puppy goes to the object and brings it back, a treat is offered. It is recommended to use the favorite toy of your pup as the target. Stand — Take a treat and move it up while the pup is in a sitting position. For this purpose, you can use a recall command with some specific sound for it. Strengthen Earlier Trainings — You should focus on all the previous learning firmly. Spend some quality time with your puppy to make this into a strong relationship. At this age, you can start teaching your dog some advanced commands. Leave it — It is used when the dog is biting down on something and not leaving it. You can also use this command to keep your pooch safe from potential troubles. Once some sort of discipline is implemented, you can remove the treats from the training and use appreciation. Wait — This is used when your dog is running continuously or doing rigorous exercise. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Print Preparing for the teething stage If you have been following my puppy training program since the beginning, you will have some down time for the next month or so. This is not to mean that you will not be working with your puppy at all, but only means that you will not be adding any new training. For the next month or two, you should continue working on basic obedience. I will discuss this more later in the post but Here is the training for your 4-month-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post eight of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba Training and socialization for four-month-old Labrador puppy Here are the things we worked on during the past two weeks while training Bubba. Working on self-control and restraint If you have ever been pushed out of the way as your large dog rushes to get outside or inside ahead of you, you know how that feels. It can be downright dangerous, and there is no reason to allow it. You can start eliminating these future problems by spending time now, teaching your 4-month-old puppy to have self-control and restraint. There is a vast array of situations that you can use to teach your puppy self-control. The first and easiest one to teach is sitting before eating. Simply do not give your puppy their food until they SIT calmly. Here are some other opportunities. Sitting before getting a leash on and off Sitting by door, waiting to go outside or inside, until released from SIT Staying in crate or kennel until released, even with door open All these training opportunities work toward the same thing — self-control. There are probably many more situations that would also apply, use your imagination, and teach your puppy to listen and exert restraint in all situations. Bubba has learned all these lessons well. She understands that she must wait for a release command and that if she SITS very still the release comes sooner. Obedience training your 4-month-old puppy We continue to work on obedience training using a chain collar and heeling stick. Bubba has come a long way regarding heeling. She is not perfect, but she does understand the command. However, remote SIT is not going well. Bubba really struggles to SIT still, even for a few seconds. I had to be reminded that Bubba is a chocolate lab. Chocolate labs tend to mature much slower than blacks or yellows, and Bubba is proving that to be true. Given this, Bubba will probably need some more maturity before I can expect too much from her on obedience. Well, let me rephase. Bubba knows the HERE command but still struggles to respond to it consistently. This is a huge source of contention for me, but again, Bubba is a chocolate and is very immature. A halt on retrieving Up until now we have been doing retrieving daily with Bubba, but as she enters the fourth month, we are increasing aware that she will be teething very soon. Because of this, we will be stopping retrieving until we can confirm that all her adult teeth are in. This concerns a lot of owners; they are concerned that their puppy will forget how to retrieve or will stop wanting to retrieve. We have never had this happen. Final thoughts on training for your 4-month-old Labrador puppy As your puppy approaches four months of age, it is good to take a moment to reflect on all the progress you have made in terms of training. These are important steps that will lead your puppy down a path of becoming a happy, healthy family dog and hunting companion. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your 4-month-old Labrador puppy? You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies.