owning a goldendoodle puppy

owning a goldendoodle puppy

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. This was the first time we had a chance to chart puppies from birth until 8 weeks old. We tried to take as many pictures as possible so we could have a journal of our Golden Retriever puppy growth week by week. When raising guide and service dog puppies we usually bring home our puppies at around weeks old. On occasion we are allowed to see puppies before 8 weeks of age, but they need to stay with their mother and siblings during those important early weeks to get milk and antibodies from mama and learn how to interact properly with siblings, learning important behaviors like bite inhibition. During our days as a foster we raised two litters of puppies , but both were already weeks old by the time we got them home. We actually own the Puppy Culture DVD and Workbook which includes charts, lists, worksheets and other great information for raising your litter. Keep your eyes and ears open and absorb it all like a sponge! Birth To 1 Week Old Guess what? This was the first litter we ever whelped!? We got a lot of advise, but we were largely on our own. Large Puppy Dish — great for feeding the puppies when they moved to solid food. Whelping Mats — we ordered 2 of these mats and washed them several times a day. Whelping Box — We have a homemade whelping box built by my father-in-law, but if we continue raising litters I plan on purchasing an EZWhelp Whelping Box. Our homemade box lasted three litters. We ended up purchasing the Magnabox which was hellu expensive but if you plan on raising multiple litters we highly recommend it. We recently put together a whelping checklist with all the supplies we gathered together to help out with our second litter of Golden Retriever puppies. Check out our whelping supplies checklist here. However, none were overly huge and none were extra small. No runts and no beasts. It was my understanding that when the cord was chewed down to the base of the belly it was sometimes difficult to get it to stop bleeding. I took the hemostat and pinched the umbilical cord about 2 inches from the base of the pups belly then cut the cord rather than let Raven chew it off. I kept the hemostat on the cord for about 2 minutes to let it clout. The umbilical cord dries up quickly and then within a day or 2 it falls off. Raven was a good mama and took care of her poops. Puppy eyes and ears are closed at this stage and puppies army crawl around the whelping box looking for a teat to suckle. We did everything we could to make sure our pups stayed warm by adding a watt heat lamp to the whelping box and portable heating unit in the puppy room. As I mentioned Raven stayed in the whelping box most of week 1 and of course… the puppy piles! One thing I learned is if I had a puppy on my lap then do not let Raven lick those areas or be prepared for a little accident on your lap. While caring for Raven and her litter Raven was really blowing out her coat that first week, but as time went on it slowed down. I heard from other friends this is common and that Raven blew out her coat much less than other mama dogs. We got Probiotics for Raven before her first litter, but forgot to order them for her second litter. After an upset stomach for the first week or so we realized our mistake, got Probiotics, and no more upset tummy. Week 2 — Pups eyes are opening starting to waddle. Week 3 — First bark! Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. Have you ever had a litter of Golden Retriever puppies? Tell us about your experiences with puppies in the comment section below. Are you about to raise a litter of puppies? Not raising a litter, but getting ready to bring home your first Golden Retriever puppy? Puppies for Dummies will give you the basics on how to raise and train your new puppy. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Scroll below the pictures for developmental information. This litter is so so cute! F Getting More Mobile Between 2 and 3 weeks of age, puppy development takes off. At 2 weeks, puppies are still partially scooting around and wobbly on all fours. However, they are confidently walking around by 3 weeks. Between two and three weeks, they begin playing with each other and with toys. However, most of their time is still spent sleeping. For the most part, they will sleep for hours at a time. They wake up when mom comes in to feed them. Puppies will play for a few minutes and then they are back asleep again. They are rarely awake for more than 15 minutes at a time at 2 weeks. By three weeks, their periods of wakefulness is still only about 30 minutes at a time. We also will begin bottle feeding larger litters once a day when they are right around two weeks. We add a pan with pine pellets in it to the puppy pen at around 3 weeks of age. This will become their toileting area. Until puppies are 3 weeks 4 days, the pan is hit or miss with regard to toileting mostly miss. However, at 3 weeks 4 days, the idea begins to click. We scoop any poop out of the pan, but for several days, we leave the pee in there. The pellets absorb most of the smell as far as human noses go, but the puppies can smell it. We keep the rest of the pen as close to perfectly clean as we can keep it. We change the pads MANY times a day. The key to this stage of house training is for the puppies to associate their living quarters with cleanliness so that there is a clear differentiation between potty area and living area. Puppies naturally want to pee away from where they live. However, if breeders keep their puppies in quarters where everything has pee or poop, they will loose their natural instincts. For more information on how we raise our puppies, see our Raising Puppies page. Primary Sidebar Breeders and Trainers of English Golden Retrievers We focus on breeding and training beautiful English Golden Retriever puppies with health tested champion parents, great pedigrees, and fantastic temperaments. The puppies were doing great as their eyes were wide open, they were sobering up the drunk man waddle was becoming more stable , and a few other major landmarks. Yep, I heard the first real bark from one of the pups. First Bark? From children to adults to seniors our pups got to meet and greet many a visitor. Puppies are becoming active! They are finally starting to interact with each other in a playful manner! Every step in their journey seems monumental and the first signs of playing together is no different. Week 3 marked the time when puppies started looking and acting like puppies. A couple of other notes from week 3: Our Golden pups are becoming little fur balls as their coats grow in. Mom still cleans up most of their messes and keeps their whelping box fairly clean. Although from day 1 we regularly change out the whelping mat. Alright, guys and gals if anyone else out there has ever raised a litter of puppies tell us about your experiences during week 3. Were your puppies hitting all of the same milestones as this Golden litter? Tell us your story in the comment section below. Check out our other Golden Retriever puppy growth week-by-week blog posts: Week 1 — Six Golden Retriever puppies are born! Week 2 — Pups eyes are opening starting to waddle. Week 3 — This is Week 3! Week 4 — Little guys are starting to eat solid foods. Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. FYI, Weeks were some of my favorite weeks. Raven still takes care of a lot of the messy puppy stuff while we got to play with little 3 lb fur balls! Is your Golden about to have a litter of puppies? Check out Puppy Culture Bundle to get you started. Puppies for Dummies will give you the basics on how to raise and train your new puppy. Our litter of Golden Retriever puppies — Week Three. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.

View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. Using our advanced bloodlines, genetic testing, and attractive pedigrees, every breeding is carefully thought out with health, temperament, and beauty in mind. We aim to produce the ideal Bernedoodle and family companion. Our team involves members on staff as well as contractors, groomers, veterinarians, and other providers to create this ecosystem in which our Bernedoodles thrive. We accomplish this first and foremost through the careful selection of the parent dogs in our program. This careful selection of our mamas and studs is dependent upon temperament testing and genetic testing. We also believe it is absolutely essential that each parent dog lives its best life as a forever pet in a Home Environment. We leave nothing to chance when selecting those who become our Guardian Families. Each one is interviewed and vetted. We believe happy, healthy puppies begin with happy, healthy parents. Through careful genetic research, intentional whelping and training practices, and a commitment to providing the best lives possible for the parent dogs in our stewardship, we hope to leave a lasting legacy. Our experience over the years has helped us perfect our methods and techniques so you can rest assured that we will produce quality, healthy puppies with great temperaments. Contact us now to learn more adding an Orchard Valley Bernedoodle to your family today! View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near East Cleveland Ohio and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!

As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. Puppies Boxer puppies are just adorable. Having a new boxer puppy at home is just overwhelming. But have you ever thought about the responsibilities you will have to handle and take care of? Besides, its not only about responsibility and taking care of your Boxer puppies, it about understanding their behavior in each development stages. Well, this article will help you in every way about Boxer puppies. The newborn puppies will only move to regulate their body temperature or when they are hungry. Newborn Boxer Puppy. Image Source — Blogspot. Newborn Boxers will not be able to hear, see or sense anything. Their eyes and ears will be closed until the end of week two. They will be unable to sense the human stimuli until they can see or hear. Neonatal stage is a very delicate stage for the puppies. Therefore, keep a close eye on Boxer puppies, whether they have been abandoned by its mother or littermates. If any puppy is abandoned, bottle feed them and keep them in a warm place. Or, it will die. Transitional Stage — 2 to 4 Weeks The transitional stage is a serious development stage. You can see your Boxer puppies opening their eyes and trying to wag their tails for the first time. Your Boxer puppies will also start walking a bit between two to three weeks. Image Source — Instagram. Baby Boxer will now want to explore the surroundings and will run around littermates jumping and growling. Socialization Stage — 4 to 12 Weeks Boxer puppies will start playing and running around the house with their littermates. They will be mischievous and may want your attention too. From the third and fourth weeks of their development, Boxer puppies will control their bowel movement as they move away from their whelping box. Many puppies will start having worms at this stage. And the mother Boxer may lose interest in cleaning her puppies excretion, having said that, you will have to take a step forward to clean the surroundings. This is the high time you socialize your puppy and give some basic training. By the eighth week, Boxer puppies will start being familiar with the surroundings and the people in the house as well. You should socialize the puppy with other animals as well as people around your neighborhood. A well-socialized puppy always defines a well-behaved dog. Otherwise, the Boxer puppies will try to dominate you. You should teach them the meaning of submission and dominance. From the starting of three months, your Boxer puppies will start feeling the independence and confidence in them. You should keep the training consistent as this is the very fragile time your Boxer puppy needs to learn. Furthermore, when they reach the age of four months old, you can send them to advance training classes. Adolescence — 6 to 18 Months Now your Boxer puppies are not puppies anymore, adolescence has now hit them. Your Boxer will now lose their puppy face completely and are now adult versions of themselves. Boxers will now lose their baby teeth and their second teething phase is likely to get started. During these months, your Boxers will grow stronger and more energetic. You should increase the training session according to their diet. Not a Puppy Anymore. The medium-sized breed tends to grow fast physically but their mind will still be a puppy until the end of the month. You should take care of their diet as well as their behavior. A well-trained puppy only grows as a well-behaved dog. Vaccination Chart For Boxers. Bruno's first week—7 weeks old, 12 pounds, 10 inches from the ground to the highest point of the shoulders the withers. We adopted Bruno when he was 7 weeks old. We had to wait until he was ready to leave the breeder before we could pick him up and bring him home. The breeder's policy was not to let the pups go until they are 8 weeks old, however Bruno's mother had died at birth and therefore he was not going to get that extra week with her and because of a schedule conflict on our end she made an exception. We decided to crate train our new puppy. Most puppies will cry all night in the beginning days because they miss their mother and their littermates. I placed Bruno's crate in the kitchen since it has a floor that can easily be cleaned in case of an accident. Dreading the sound of a crying puppy all night, and knowing this was the first night away from his litter I told two of my children to set up camp on the kitchen floor next to the crate. I did not want to bring the pup into our bed since we do not plan on allowing him on the beds when he is older. It worked, Bruno slept in his crate and didn't yip all night because he was not alone. Allie, our adult Boxer and two of our children were next to his crate. This allowed Bruno to learn what the crate was for, yet not be left alone. Bruno was exhausted from his three-hour car ride home and all of the attention he was receiving. Amazingly enough, he slept until a. I jumped out of bed and ran down to take him out to pee. It was then time for breakfast, another trip outside and playtime. I was up for the day because when he woke up, he needed to be taken right outside to pee and poop. Then he was hungry. After he ate he needed to be taken immediately outside once again to go to the bathroom. After a puppy eats, it stimulates them and the vast majority of time, they need to eliminate, it's a rule of thumb with a puppy. Then he wanted to play. After all, he just woke up! No time like the present to get hyper and want to play. He had three accidents in the last two days, which is very good for a brand new puppy. If Bruno is out of his crate, he needs to be watched constantly. I don't mean watched from across the room, I mean watched as in "hovering over him watched" to ensure he does not pee, poop or chew anything he is not supposed to inside the house. During the day we try not to crate him. He's either being held, hovered over or outside. We are lucky enough to have a very large fenced yard for him. If we did not, he'd have to be walked on a leash to go to the bathroom, which would be much more time-consuming. We have to teach Bruno not to bite our hands and feet. Yes, it is cute now and kind of funny, but when he is pounds it will not be so cute anymore. Rule of thumb with a puppy: if you do not want him doing it when he is full grown, do not allow him to do it when he is a puppy. This includes sitting with him on the furniture. Another thing we must break him from is chasing our cats. Again, it's cute and funny now, but this tiny little Boxer puppy will not be tiny for long and our cats would not appreciate an adult dog chasing them around. Cats are smart, if we allow this to go on they may even decide to take up residence elsewhere. Allie the Boxer meets her new brother. Adult dogs usually do not attack puppies and Allie rather liked the little guy. She did have to put him in his place a few times, which is normal dog behavior. An adult dog will often growl at a puppy to let it know its behavior is not acceptable. For example, when Bruno wanted to play and Allie did not, she let out a small growl and stomped at the pup to tell him enough was enough. Bruno took the hint and backed off his play and started chewing on Allie's collar and dog tags instead. Allie didn't seem to mind getting her tags chewed. She realizes Bruno is just a baby. I am lucky enough to be home with the puppy. If I had to leave for work things would be much more complicated. Bruno is young and he can only hold his pee and poop for a certain amount of time. The point of crate training a dog is you put the dog in a small enough crate so there is only room to comfortably sleep. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep. However, if you leave a young puppy in a crate for too long, they cannot physically hold it in and they must go, even on their bedding. If you allow this to happen, you are going backwards in your housebreaking. If you are going to be gone for many hours a day, longer than the puppy can physically hold it, it is better to pen the dog in an area such as the kitchen where the floors are easy to clean up and place some pee pads down. It is not fair to crate a puppy or dog longer then they can comfortably hold in their waste. It is much harder to housebreak a dog if you are not home. This can really give the puppy a bad start in life and will be no fault of its own when they do not understand the concept of housebreaking. Keep in mind, you cannot yell at a dog for something after the fact, you must catch it in the act. If you do not catch it in the act, your yelling is pointless and confusing to the dog. I am writing this at a. However, he will be up bright and early wanting to eliminate, eat and play.It's now a. Bruno had to go to the bathroom. I walked him outside to the spot where I prefer him to do his business. He peed and I decided to give him some time to see if he had to poop as well; he is still outside and I must go and check on my adorable bundle of a puppy.Bruno is back in his crate. Bruno is yipping. I instinctively go and see him. Goodnight, Bruno, you have a lot to learn my young puppy. Sshhhh, lets only hope he does not keep me up all night because I will have to put up with his yipping in order to teach him what nighttime means. As I type this he is yipping from his crate. I am off to shower and go to bed. I decide to let Bruno get a drink and put him outside with Allie one last time before I go to bed to ensure he does not have to go when I ignore his plea to come out of his crate. When I turned off the shower water I could hear Bruno yipping up a storm. It woke my 9 year old who was almost sleepwalking when she opened his crate to put him outside to pee. I did her the favor of taking the pup out and told her to go back to bed. I put Bruno outside. He stayed out for a few minutes then wanted back in. It is only his third night away from his littermates and he's a tiny pup. After getting the usual puppy kisses all over my neck yeah, nice after my shower, huh? I will give him a few minutes to get good and sleepy then place him back in his crate and hope for the best. Even with all of this work, I look at him like I did my newborn babies; I just love this little puppy! The next morning: 7 weeks and 3 days old a. Bruno's up, hungry and ready to play! Bruno is tired and ready to go back to sleep. But first, his head smells like pee; he must have rolled in it. Time to clean him up and then put him back to sleep. He's taken outside to go to the bathroom and to play. He is now awake for the day but will take numerous naps as puppies need a lot of sleep. We will try not to allow his naps to last for hours on end, as those long sleep periods should be adjusted to the middle of the night hours. This size crate is the perfect size for this puppy. There needs to be room to sleep, stretch out and stand, but not enough room for him to pee in one section and still have a dry place to sleep. It's Bruno's fourth day with us and he has already picked up on the concept that his crate is the place to sleep without being disturbed. We are not being extra quiet as it is the middle of the day and he must get used to noises. Also most of his quiet sleep should be adjusted for the middle of the night. He'll soon wake to eat his lunch, go to the bathroom and play. He'll be awake for a few hours and then need another nap. This crate may be perfect for now, but very soon he'll outgrow it and we'll have to get him a larger one. I let Bruno sleep for two hours and decided it was time to wake him. As soon as he turns his hours around and is sleeping through the night I will no longer worry about the length of his daytime naps. I know he can sleep through the night; he did it the first two nights, but not the third. Bruno's 4th night: 7weeks and 4days old Bruno woke up at a. I came downstairs and put him outside. He peed and pooped. I carried him back to his crate and closed it. He laid down, then a few minutes later he started crying again. I walked back to the kitchen and was about to tell him to be quiet and give him a bone to chew when some motherly instinct inside me opened the crate door. Bruno walked out of his crate and over to my feet then sat down, leaning on my leg. I picked up the little fellow, he put his head on my shoulder and started to go back to sleep. My typical advice would be to put the puppy back in the crate if you are sure he no longer has to go to the bathroom, however I walked over to the rocking chair and rocked him back to sleep. I then put him back in his crate and he woke back up in the process, but this time he went to sleep and stayed asleep until a. He is just like a newborn baby and he's sweet as can be. Bruno's 5th night: 7 weeks and 5 days old Bruno woke up at a. I came down and took him outside and he went to the bathroom. I held him for just a bit until he calmed back down, then put him back in his crate and he fell back to sleep by a. Bruno woke up again. He was ready to play and eat his breakfast. I was beat, so at a. I tried putting him back in his crate to see if he would go back to sleep. It seemed like it just might work. I headed back to bed. At he started yipping just as I lay down. I went back to his crate and held a bone up to him to chew on and talked quietly to him. His eyes started drooping as he half chewed his bone still inside his crate. I waited there for just a bit until his eyes stayed closed for a minute or two, then I went back to bed for an hour. Housebreaking Bruno is now 7 weeks and 5 days old. He seemed to be doing so well with housebreaking. He was either inside being watched, in his crate or outside. As soon as he woke we put him outside to pee. He is not in his crate unless he's sleeping. Bruno was falling asleep so I decided to put him in his crate for a nap. As I leaned down to put him in his crate I smelled something. I felt his blankets and sure enough they were damp. Bruno had been peeing in his crate and sleeping in it! I changed his bedding and he seemed quite pleased. Now I have to figure out how to stop him when he's not doing it in front of me. The crate is not too large, which would have been my first advice to someone, to check the crate size. He is only 7 weeks. Maybe I am not always hearing him wake up in the middle of the night. At this age, puppies can only physically hold it for so long before they have to go, no matter what. Baby monitor??? Bruno smells like pee from sleeping in his crate. Time for a bath. Bruno's 6th night: 7 weeks and 6 days old Bruno was up at a. I let him out to pee. He went back to sleep shortly after and re-awoke at a. Bruno peed in his crate again, in the very back corner. I had to throw his bedding in the wash again and replace it with new bedding. His crate is not too large. I believe I need to watch how much he drinks right before bedtime. Puppies at this age have small bladders and cannot physically hold it in for too long. Bruno asked to come back inside the house and wanted to curl up in my lap, which means he's ready to go back to sleep. I put him back in his crate with the fresh bedding. Allie and Bruno sharing the dog bed. Yes, I do believe they like one another. Why Bruno.Bruno peed on his dog bed, the bed we keep on the porch for him. I had to hose his bed off and prop it up to dry. This is him asking mommy why she got his bed all wet with the hose. Actually, it is him discovering some new and interesting smells the moisture is bringing out from the bed!

Please assume all such links are affiliate links which may result in my earning commissions and fees. This will not incur additional cost to you. If you own a french bulldog puppy or thinking about buying one. Keep in mind that, just like human babies, they will also have teeth and knowing what to expect will help you deal with their dental development in the right direction. There is nothing scary about it, dogs lose their teeth in all sorts of ways. The first is when they are a puppy. Now with French Bulldog puppies, this is how it typically works. When do the baby teeth start coming in? After that the first weeks or about the same time their eyes start to open, give or take. When do baby teeth fall out? After about 3 months when they start their teething and continue until the adult teeth come in. By then all the baby milk teeth should be out and the adult teeth are growing in their place. French Bulldogs have 28 milk teeth and then as an adult, they get 42 teeth total. When do adult teeth come in? As mentioned before, these adult teeth are going to be there no sooner than the 7th or 8th month. When do they stop teething? Luckily for you, by the time those little monsters stop chewing up everything- magically those adult teeth have grown in. Trust me when I tell you that by the 8th month is your best bet to see the end of teething. How long is the entire teething process? The real truth is pretty weird. Not every French Bulldog is going to be the same, so the teething period can be longer or shorter. Overall, it can take weeks or roughly 4 months plus. And by that 8th month, your puppy should have a full set of 42 adult teeth. Signs of teething in French Bulldog puppies Alright, this is the part where you better order that shoe rack and put your bra, leather belt, or remote control up high on the dresser. French Bulldog teething is brutal and takes no prisoners when it comes to being chewed up without hesitation. More on that later… If you see any of these signs and here is what you can do. Too much chewing These pups are gonna chew on things, in fact, everything they can get their mouths on! Imagine that you are growing new teeth and the pain that comes with little teeth popping through your gums is going to drive you nuts- hence, little chewing machines in your home. As milk teeth fall out and new teeth come in, there will be a small amount of blood that might be seen on toys, furniture, or in their sleeping bed. Small loose milk teeth In the frenzy of munching everything in their path, the French Bulldog puppy will no doubt start to lose their milk teeth. There are 28 of them but you might only see half or that if you are lucky. They might even be spotted on the floor so you can save it as a keepsake. Relax already, the drool is all part of the teething since this is a reaction to the teeth growing in and old teeth coming out. If they still drool after 8 months after their adult teeth come in, take them to the vet. It might be a health problem in that case. Floppy ears Because of the differences in calcium levels that are being sent to their developing teeth, your French Bulldog will have that unmistakable floppy or even droop ears. In time the ears will return to stand up. The calcium level will return to make cartilage stronger in their ears as a result. Short attention spans Poor puppy is going to have a bad time at this stage, so be sure to keep them company as much as possible. Play with them, bond with them. And you can enjoy all the more drool all over you too! Running a mild fever What do you know, the puppy is hotter than usual. Do you take them to the vet or not? Not to worry, since the teething will raise body temperature -and that is perfectly normal. I know- I nearly took my Frenchie to the vet until a friend told me to relax. As the milk teeth are pushed out, they might happen to stick and can cause adult teeth to grow wonky. Ask your vet for help if you see this happening. Additional Signs. Pin 0 Shares The age most people first get a Frenchie is between 8 and 10 weeks. I remember this exact thing happening with Claude, our own Frenchie puppy. I had no idea at what age French Bulldogs lose their baby teeth. Here are all the questions and answers you will need to know. When do Frenchies get their baby or milk teeth? Frenchie puppies are not born with teeth, instead the baby teeth starting to grow through after 2 or 3 weeks after birth. Their baby teeth are also known as milk teeth. Their baby teeth come in this order: Front teeth incisors. Frenchie puppies will have 28 milk teeth in total at around 8 weeks of age. Do French Bulldogs lose their baby teeth? Just like humans, Frenchies do lose their baby teeth. It is perfectly normal and happens so that their larger adult teeth can grow through as their skull and jaw gets larger. When do Frenchies lose their baby teeth? French Bulldogs lose their baby teeth from the age of 12 weeks old 3 months. They start to drop out, typically when they chew on toys, as they get pushed out by the larger adult teeth that up growing upwards underneath. By the age of 8 months old, your French Bulldog puppy will have lost all of his baby teeth, with a full set of 42 adult teeth now in place. Do Frenchie puppies swallow their baby teeth? Are Frenchie puppies in pain when they lose their baby teeth? To confirm on the previous responses, adult Frenchies have 42 adult teeth, which will replace the 28 milk teeth they have as a puppy. The French Bulldog teeth structure is as follows: 42 teeth in total. Conclusion Now you know what age Frenchies lose their 28 temporary baby teeth I would recommend you read up some more on teething. You can do that in this guide. Their gums will bleed, and they will want to chew everything in sight — so be prepared! You might also like… On the subject of the mouth area, you might also be interested in these other guides recently published:. Along with their small face comes a small mouth. There are a lot to know when it comes to French Bulldog teeth, including the stages of teething, potential oral issues, caring for teeth, and fun facts. Here are the teething stages of a Frenchie puppy. There are 28 baby teeth in total front teeth or incisors, canine teeth, and pre-molars. This is when you may start finding teeth and blood spots, a very normal part of teething. Eventually, the 28 baby teeth will be replaced by 42 adult teeth. Six to seven months old: teething will stop Puppies teethe longer than some may realize. Their baby teeth grow in much quicker than their adult teeth. Their molars take especially long to grow in fully. By around eight months old sometimes sooner , French Bulldog teeth are all grown in, and your pup should have 42 healthy, strong teeth. This is because chewing helps relieve gum and teeth pain experienced during teething. You will also probably notice drool. Small, loose milk teeth: Small baby teeth start to fall out as adult teeth grow in. Frenchies love tasty treats from the tooth fairy! When a teething pooch bites down, pulsating movements occur and can strain their ear muscles which may result in their ears losing shape and drooping down. Additionally, calcium that their ears need in order to take their wanted shape is going to new teeth growing in instead. Their ears should become bat-like in no time when they are finished teething. Ways to Help Your Teething Puppy It can be understandably frustrating when your new French Bulldog is teething and chewing everything in sight to relieve their discomfort. In the meantime, there are some things you can do to help the chewing and pain that teething brings. Give your pup something to chew on. Teething chew toys for your new puppy can save your furniture and shoes. Puppy-proof your home. Give frozen snacks like ice and bananas to relieve its discomfort and give it something to do. Exercise your pup. Possible French Bulldog Teeth Issues Because French Bulldogs are a Brachycephalic breed and have small faces in addition to an underbite, they are prone to dental issues. Possible Dental Problems Plaque and tartar: A film that develops on the teeth is caused by food build-up and lack of cleaning. It can cause tooth decay and gum irritation. It starts as gingivitis and eventually turns into periodontal disease, and teeth will start falling out. Abscesses: Bacteria at the root of a tooth start to cause pus build-up and becomes an infection known as an abscess. Signs of a tooth fracture is excessive drooling, difficulty eating, teeth grinding, and pawing at the mouth. Just like us they also have baby teeth, and French Bulldogs are no different; French Bulldogs will teethe. I have a very clear memory of when we got Claude the Frenchie puppy. During the puppy months we would find tiny teeth on the floor which would come out as he chewed everything in sight to relieve his sore teeth and gums. This chewing is a huge part of the teething process, but is something you can actually help your French Bulldog puppy with. So, today I want to share everything I have learned about why French Bulldogs teethe, at what age they lose their baby or milk teeth, what to expect as an owner, and how to help them plus ways to stop them chewing your furniture! My intention is for this to be the only guide you would ever need to read about the dental development of your French Bulldog. This is completely normal during the teething phases. But when should you expect this to start and then finally stop? French Bulldog puppy baby teeth start coming through — between 2 and 3 weeks old French Bulldogs are born without teeth. The 2-week point in their life is a massive time in their growth and becoming the French Bulldogs we know and love. Of course, most French Bulldog owners will never get to see this phase in their dental development stage as French Bulldog puppies should not be leaving their mother until they are at least 8 weeks old. Canine teeth at which point they can start on solid foods. Pre-molars stop coming through after about 6 weeks. By 8 weeks of age, your French Bulldog should have grown all of its 28 milk teeth. French Bulldog starts teething and growing adult teeth — 12 weeks of age onwards The next stage of dental development is the teething phase. When do French Bulldogs lose their baby teeth? French Bulldog puppies will lose their baby teeth at around 3 months or 12 weeks old. This the age at which French Bulldogs start to teeth as they lose the milk teeth which fall out. There are 28 baby teeth in total, and surprisingly, 32 adult teeth which will grow through in the place of the milk teeth. French Bulldog teething age will vary, but typically starts at 3 months. French Bulldog puppies stop teething — 7 to 8 months of age When do French Bulldogs stop teething? French Bulldog puppies will typically stop teething at around 7 to 8 months old. French Bulldog adult teeth take a lot longer to grow and push through compared to their baby milk teeth. The molars at the back are the ones that are particularly stubborn. At the very latest, your 8-month-old French Bulldog puppy should have stopped teething. Anything after that age would be unusual, but still not unheard of. Most French Bulldogs will now have all 42 adult teeth. Signs of teething in French Bulldog puppies As you might have already experienced with your French Bulldog puppy, the first sign of teething is them chewing everything in sight. Small baby teeth: One of the more obvious signs is finding their cute little teeth. They might be on the floor, embedded in a toy, or near a food bowl. Blood spots on toys: As French Bulldogs teethe, they will chew on their toys to relieve the pain. This can result in blood when baby teethe come out or gums are irritated. Lots of drooling: Teething puppies can drool, so expect to see more saliva than usual coming from their mouths. Even more chewing: When French Bulldogs teethe, they need to relieve the pain and the best way to do this is by chewing. Give them chew toys and keep them away from anything that you value! Sore gums: Teething French Bulldogs will get inflamed and red gums. They will look really sore, because the larger adult teeth are pushing up through. Change in behavior: Your French Bulldog puppy will be in pain from time to time and might even be irritable. Try to distract them with teething toys and lots of attention. Mild fever: If you have ever had kids, you will know that they can get a little hot when teething. French Bulldog puppies are the same. Misaligned teeth: As the adult teeth come through, they might not always push a baby tooth. Your French Bulldog might have a bit of a redneck look at the two teeth sit together until the milk tooth falls out. Recommended French Bulldog teething toys All puppies need something to chew on when new teeth are coming through. They will try to chew your shoes, furniture… pretty much anything. To help your French Bulldog puppy when teething, instead invest in some teething toys that are hard and durable enough to give their gums relief. There are two teething toys we used with our own puppy which always worked a treat. Not only is a great for French Bulldogs to get their teeth around, but you can also put treats inside of it to mentally challenge them as well. What we also used to do was place ours in the freezer before letting our teething puppy have. That way it was really nice and cold and helped to soothe his sore gums. My second recommendation is the Nylabone dog chew on Amazon. This is how much they will end up chewing it! You might have to hide things, reduce their access to certain rooms, and keep a close eye on them. Chew proof your home: You might need to install stair gates to restrict access to certain rooms where your prized furniture is located. You might have to move things above their height. Nothing is safe from a teething French Bulldog puppy! Give them frozen treats: As well as chew toys, a piece of frozen carrot or an ice cube can really help to soothe their sore gums. Keep them exercised: French Bulldogs that have energy to burn will chew more than those that are tired out. Give your French Bulldog puppy a couple of walks a day and provide plenty of indoor play time too. Keep them entertained: Bored French Bulldogs tend to be destructive. Get their toys out to keep them mentally challenged and distracted whilst teething. Puppies can cause utter devastation whilst teething. You just need to look at how chewed the corner of our wooden dining room table was during the teething phase. French Bulldog teething can last a while and your furniture will know it! Did You Know? If you find that your French Bulldog continues to chew on things after teething has finished then it could be the sign of something else. This can include stress, boredom, worms, gastrointestinal problems, or even a dietary deficiency. What other owners say I am part many different French Bulldog social media groups, and recently asked people about their own experiences with their own puppies and teething. Bored French Bulldogs will start chewing your things when they teethe. Nylabone and Kong Toys are two of my faves. Bully sticks and Himalayan cheese sticks are good. We also use real bones from the meat department at our local store, frozen so they last longer, and our dogs love them. If your French Bulldog is teething and eats dry food try and soften the biscuits as chewing hard food can be a big turn off put for them as their gums can be quite sensitive. Puppies crave different things at different times and are learning what their teeth can do in addition to the teething that they are going through. I recommend 20 different teething toys and rotate them. They hate the smell and it will stop them chewing your stuff. And give him chews. It is boredom that makes them chew more than anything. Just put a knot in each end and wet them, then freeze them! He loved it and still just loves playing with tea towels now at nearly 2 years old. Would recommend putting the tea towel in a food bag when freezing. How much pain they are will vary from puppy to puppy — our own dog had quite mild teething pain from what we could tell, but it depends on the dog. But, almost all of them will chew. You can expect to see little teeth on the floor or stuck into things they have chewed on, plus those little blood spots I mentioned. At this time of their dental development, your puppy will need your love and support, plenty of chewable toys, patience, and understanding. You might also like… If you enjoyed this guide to French Bulldog teething ages and how long it all lasts, then you might also like these other French Bulldog puppy related articles:. Pin29 30 Shares Just like human babies do, French Bulldog puppies will also teethe. I have often compared owning a puppy to having a baby. You have the tantrums, poop, pee, separation anxiety, and more… and that includes having to deal with them going through the French Bulldog puppy teething stages. I remember when we got Claude. During his puppy months I was frequently finding little teeth on the carpet. And, we also had the chewing. In this guide I am going to explain why French Bulldogs teethe, what age it happens and starts, what to expect, how you can stop them chewing your prized possessions, how to help them, and when it stops. But when exactly does teething start and stop? French Bulldog baby teeth start to grow through at the same time their eyes begin to open. Canine teeth at which point they can start on solid foods. Pre-molars stop coming through after about 6 weeks. There will be 28 baby teeth in total and they should fully stop growing through at around 8 weeks of age which is the minimum age you can take a puppy home. They will start to fall out, being pushed out by the adult ones. When do French Bulldogs lose their baby teeth? When do French Bulldogs start teething? French Bulldog puppies will start to teeth at around 3 months of age. They then start to lose their baby and milk teeth which will start to fall out, being pushed out by the adult teeth. The 28 milk teeth will eventually be replaced by 42 adult teeth. French Bulldog puppies stop teething — age 7 to 8 months Want to know when do French Bulldog puppies stop teething? French Bulldog puppies will stop teething at about 7 to 8 months of age. It can sometimes be shorter or longer, but by this stage all their milk teeth should be replaced by adult teeth. How long do French Bulldogs teethe for — between 20 and 24 weeks The entire Frenchie teething process from start to finish will take longer than you might expect. In most cases, they will have stopped teething after 24 weeks, but it can end as early as 20 weeks from the start of the process. To conclude, adult teeth do take longer to grow in than milk baby teeth. The molars are particularly prone to taking longer to push through. However, by around 8 months of age, your French Bulldog puppy should have stopped teething completely and will now be the proud owner of 42 strong and health adult teeth. I have heard of some puppies finishing teething at 4 months, but this is very unusual. They chew because it helps them to relieve the pain in their teeth and gums. Small loose milk teeth: you might find cute little baby teeth stuck in toys or on the floor. These have now made way for the adult teeth to grow through. Perhaps you could be the tooth fairy, and leave a treat under their bed? Blood spots on toys: you might also see small spots of blood left on the toys or furniture they have chewed. Excessive drooling: many Frenchie puppies will also drool when they are teething. If your dog continues to drool after the teething age, it could be the sign of a health problem. French Bulldogs teething ears is common. It happens because they are young so need the calcium in other areas of their developing body, including new teeth. This can make their ears behave very erratically, but they should stand up in the end. Red and inflamed gums: the gums can swell and look angry. This is particularly true once the milk teeth have gone, as the adult teeth will be fighting to push through. Once they do, expect the blood spots. Short attention spans: your Frenchie puppy will be distracted and possibly irritable. Try to soothe them, pay them lots of attention, and use toys to keep them active. Mild fever: just like human babies, puppies can also suffer from mild fevers when teething. The adult tooth will grow through next to the baby tooth and can actually cause an abscess. If it does, consult with your vet. Recommended French Bulldog teething toys One of the best ways you can help your French Bulldog puppy when teething is to give him more toys to play with. It needs to be something tough and rugged to cope with those sharp little teeth and sore gums. Frenchie puppies will chew when teething and need plenty of toys! How stop your puppy chewing in the teething stage When the baby teeth of your Frenchie start to fall out, your puppy will go on a chewing frenzy. It was such a problem with Claude that I had to buy a shoe rack to sit up on a work surface, as any shoes on the floor were fair game for him to destroy. The reason French Bulldog puppies chew when teething is because it helps to relieve the pain they are feeling as the new adult teeth grow through. Just like babies, they want to chew on stuff. You can actually buy a range of teething toys which you can see featured elsewhere on my blog. Handy Hint: Read this guide on how to stop a Frenchie from chewing. It contains 8 tips in more detail which we used with Claude. What you need to do is distract them, give them something else to chew on, or make steps to remove stuff from their reach that they can cause the most damage to. Here are my tips on how to stop your French Bulldog puppy chewing the items you value the most. You can be better off… Puppy proofing your home: just like you would place stair gates in your home with a baby, you can take similar methods with a puppy. The simplest way to do this is by taking anything out of their line of sight they are going to be inclined to chew. Give them frozen carrots or ice cubes: weird I know, but some puppies love to chew on cold frozen items as it will relieve the teething pain. There are also some fruits you can freeze and let them chew on. See my list of fruits Frenchies can eat. Keep the puppy well exercised: dogs that have energy will chew more. To reduce the amount of teething chewing, take your puppy for a couple of walks a day so he can spend some of that energy. Keep the puppy entertained: a bored dog is a chewing dog. During the Frenchie teething stage, play with you pup and keep him distracted from your valuables! We soon stopped doing that when we read how dangerous this can be. The rawhide can cause internal blockages and choke them. The bottom line is; puppies can do a huge amount of damage when teething. Our dining room table legs still have the scars to prove it! You can see what I mean in the photo below. This was what Claude did: You can see the damage caused when Claude was teething. He used to love chewing our dining room table! The positive thing is, as soon as French Bulldog puppies stop teething, a lot of this chewing still stop. Warning: If your French Bulldog continues to chew after the teething stage, it could be the sign of a nutritional problem or even stress. Ailments such as worms and upset stomachs can also lead to this behavioural trait. Related questions Here are a few more questions relating to teeth which will help you during the different stages, and once the adult teeth have grown through. The dental health of your Frenchie is important. This breed can be prone to a variety of health problems , with dental issues being quite near the top of the list. They can develop oral diseases, and at the bare minimum I recommend an annual teeth cleaning visit to the vets. In addition to the once a year cleaning, you can also buy dog-friendly toothpaste and tooth brushes, plus use dental chews to help their teeth stay healthy. How many teeth do French Bulldogs have? French Bulldog puppies have 28 milk teeth which will be lost in the teething stage ages. Once the milk teeth have fallen out, Frenchies will grow 42 adult teeth in their place. What other owners say I am the members on a few Frenchie Facebook groups, and the topic of teething comes up a lot! Here are some questions people have asked, with some of the best responses underneath. We have a toy Kong that he has no interest in, and a Nylabone and some soft toys that he enjoys, but he really wants to chew on fingers, hands and toes mostly. What have others used that helped with the biting and teething phase? Another idea is to soak a wash cloth in broth or just plain water and then freeze it for them. With the Kong toy, you should really put some food in the middle of it too — peanut butter xylitol free is great for this. We also bought special teething treats with clove oil in and puppy teething gel. And I believe ice cubes went down well too. He is 7 months old and is teething like mad. They just love to chew anything and everything. My boy teethed until 7 months. He will be a year old in July and has one more back tooth poking through finally. But it could also be secondary teething. The jaw is growing and the teeth are moving into their final place. With my dogs they tend to want to chew on harder things than when the puppy teeth fell out and new ones broke through. But she constantly bites me, but not other people. Any help would be appreciated! They should never be allowed to put their mouth on you. If allowed to do it, after 3 times it is a habit and much harder to break and they are very stubborn but also very smart and so darn cute. Lots of chew toys. They do learn biting from siblings. Give her time. They are stubborn little monsters at time. He did chew though. We found blood spots, loose teeth, and as you can see from the photo had some damage to deal with! At this time of their dental development, your Frenchie puppy will need your love and support, plenty of chewable toys, patience, and understanding. Losing your temper with a puppy that has chewed something to help reduce his pain will lead to a stressed and fearful dog. This includes regular health checks and a good diet. Open their mouth slowly and gently, and check if their teeth and gum are all fine. Repeat this often so that later on you can save yourself some biting. Those harmless-looking little teeth can be really sharp! Using a toothbrush and toothpaste might come to your mind first, which is definitely an option, although not the most fun one. Make sure that you get a toothpaste which is specifically designed for dogs and is vet-approved! You should never use human toothpaste, as fluoride is a poisonous substance for dogs. Giving dental chews and sticks to your Frenchie is one of the easiest ways of keeping their teeth clean as they are designed to rub all the plaque away. Puppies usually love chewing on these, so they can be used as an everyday treat after mealtime. You simply need to peel it and give it to your baby in whole times a week. You can easily recognize it from its yellow or brownish color, and since it appears close to the gums, it can cause them to get inflamed and even bleed. Bad breath and excessive drooling can also be signs of tartar, as well as loss of appetite in rare cases. After anaesthetizing your baby, your vet will use ultrasonic scalers to remove the tartar by the gum line and then will polish the teeth. With the passage of time, their gum gets inflamed much easier due to the bacteria in their mouth, which will then slowly lead to their gum slowly disappearing around their teeth. The article is based on the expert knowledge of the TomKings Puppies team who have been breeding French Bulldogs for 10 years on their farm. All the pictures in the post belong to them and their customers, and show puppies from their breed. Check their available French Bulldog puppies , or if you have any questions or comments let us know below the article. The growth of these teeth follows a defined order whereby incisors grow first, and then canines develop. Premolars grow last when the puppies are about 6 weeks old. Every tooth has a set function. Incisors are located at the front. Frenchies use them for scraping and grooming. Canines are pointy. The dog uses them to lock objects. You should note that you can only start giving your Frenchie solid food once its canine teeth have grown. Premolars are flat. The dog uses them to crush food. At this point, the teeth will have achieved their maximum sizes and stopped growing. It learns and engages in many activities that promote growth while with its mother—as such, taking them home before they are 8 weeks old is doing them a lot of harm. Then comes the teething phase that starts when a Frenchie is about 12 weeks old. At what age do French Bulldogs lose their teeth? Frenchies lose their baby teeth around 3 months old 12 weeks. The teeth will start falling off when your Frenchie is chewing on toys or even eating food. In some cases, the dog swallows the teeth. Teething lasts anywhere between 20 and 24 weeks. In very rare cases, some puppies finish teething at 4 months. After teething, your adult Frenchie will have the following teeth structure: 22 teeth on its lower jaw 20 teeth on its upper jaw Teething takes longer than the milk teeth growing phase because molars take longer to push through. Is it painful for French Bulldogs when they loose their teeth? Teething is painful; it is an uncomfortable process for your dog. It, therefore, causes some distinct behaviors or effects that constitute the signs that your Frenchie is teething. French Bulldog Teething Signs You can find small teeth on the floor, in toys, or the stool. Losing these teeth makes way for the growth of adult teeth. This is because the adult teeth are pushing through the gums. The inflamed area indicates where the new teeth will grow. Failure to train them makes them think that biting everything is okay, and once they are grown and have all the 42 teeth, their bites will be stronger and cause injuries. They could even destroy your expensive furniture. You can also find them on their beds. They simply mean that your dog has lost one or several milk teeth. Drooling in large amounts: Drooling for teething puppies is a natural reaction to the growth of the adult teeth. In between birth and the onset of teething, their ears are firmly up and wide open. As such, the sight of floppy ears may worry you. Relax, though. Calcium or lack thereof causes of the droopy ears. When teething, your Frenchie requires calcium to develop new, strong adult teeth. However, once the teething phase ends, the ears will return to their regular standing and firm position, as before. Reduced attention spans The fact that teething is uncomfortable makes the puppies lose their attention pretty fast. As an owner, you should give your Frenchie plenty of attention, play with it, soothe it, and bond with it. This is usually the case when there is a misalignment between the baby and adult tooth, and the latter, therefore, cannot push the former out. As a result, the adult tooth grows next to the puppy tooth. An abscess develops, and if this happens, do visit a vet. Mild Fever.

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The best time to begin potty training your French bulldog is immediately after you bring them home. If your dog is from the breeder, they are most likely about 8 weeks old. Your 8-week-old dog should start undergoing potty training without a second thought. Using the first few days of having your puppy in a new environment is advisable to teach them good habits. But ensure your puppy is healthy with no urinary infections or parasites that can affect potty training. You can call your vet to examine the dog before staying in your home for more than 2 days. After that, start potty housetraining your French bulldog. Structure a Set Routine Since potty training is a new routine you will introduce your dog to, structure it out first. Structuring a routine will help you stay consistent and adhere to rules or regulations. You can do potty training as a morning routine if you're into waking up early. However, if you can't make it early, set a preferred time, like after feeding your French bulldog. Then make it a habit of taking your dog outside for bathroom breaks at the set time. This should be after each meal, drinking water, and sleeping. It's also good to set a potty routine after playing or exercising, as French bulldogs tend to be quite excitable. With time your French bulldog will get used to this routine and eagerly wait for you for their potty breaks. If you're consistent with this training, it becomes a natural habit for your puppy. Set Up a Potty Area Apart from setting a potty routine, you should also set up a potty training area. Choose an appropriate spot within the house where you will be taking your dog to potty every day. It should be an easy-to-access area where they can go whenever they want to use the bathroom. If your puppy sleeps in their crate, place their potty training area next to it. Then bring a pee pad to this area. However, this depends on your French bulldog's size and age. The potty box helps your puppy learn how to use the bathroom quickly. Introducing the potty pads on the box will help your dog associate this area with a toilet, and they will come here when pressed. Utilize Puppy Pee Pads The potty pads make it easier for any puppy to identify the right potty spot. So, introduce the pads to your dog and help them differentiate them from the furniture and floor. If your Frenchie recognizes the potty pads, you won't experience accidents in the house. But encourage your puppy to poo outdoors often. The puppy pee pads can also help your puppy learn how to retain pee before you take them outside. To train your puppy to hold their pee put some puppy pads in the house and keep moving them towards the door. After some time, your Frenchie will go outside to potty without your company. Use Treats as a Reward If you want to succeed in potty training your French bulldog, make treats your good friend. Use different treats to reward your dog whenever they pee in the right spot. The treats will make your puppy believe that peeing outdoors is a positive skill that attracts rewards. Use only food treats and give them in moderation. However, be ready for surprises, as your dog will expect treats whenever they do something good. So, be careful with your reward and only give your Frenchie the treats after using the outdoor bathroom in the right spot. Don't allow your dog to manipulate you into giving them treats. Also, decrease the reward frequency with time as your puppy adapts to the new routine. Switch From Pee Pads to the Peeing Outdoors After setting a routine and teaching your French dog to pee in a given spot with or without treats, it's time to introduce a new method. Take them from using the pee pads to peeing outdoors in the preferred spot. You can use treats to help you achieve this without many challenges. But ensure you only reward them if they pee outdoors and teach them to do this without treats. Consistency is Key When potty training your French dog, understand that consistency is key to achieving your goal. The process can be challenging as the puppy adjusts to the new life and environment. So be there for your dog and show them the right thing to do. Keep doing this repeatedly until your puppy gets the new habit and sticks to it. Follow the set routine religiously to prevent accidents and make the whole process fun. Don't scold or force your dog to potty, as this will create a negative response. Consistency will help your puppy potty independently and cooperate well. Give it Time Patience Time is all you need for your French bulldog to identify the right potty area and go there independently. Be patient, allow your puppy to make errors, and learn how to do the right thing. As you give your dog time to learn the potty-going trick, keep reminding them of the right thing to do. Remember, the more you teach the puppy, the easier it becomes. It's advisable to start the potty journey early enough before they develop habits that can be tricky to leave. You must also be patient, as every dog responds differently to potty training. Unlike your friend's dog, you might have to wait longer for your French bulldog to adapt to the potty routine. Be Attentive to Potty Signs Remember to look out for the potty signs your dog shows when pressed. Most dogs portray some signs before potty, and you need to be keen to identify them. Some of the common signs you can look out for include the following: Barking at you Running and sniffing around you Whining. French Bulldog yawning. The earlier you start, the more effective it will be. That said, consistency is a crucial factor in training your French Bulldog. For your pup to understand that you want them to go potty outside every time they need to go, you must teach that skill every opportunity you get. As a result, training should begin at a convenient time for you and your dog. You can choose a time when both of you have the energy to train. In no time, your Frenchie will be accustomed to this routine and expect it to happen daily. Make it a part of your daily routine. French Bulldog stretching front legs. Structure a Set Routine Starting a new routine requires you to be consistent, and the best way to ensure this is by sticking to some rules and regulations. Make it a habit—wake up, feed your French Bulldog, and take them outside for bathroom breaks. Over time, your French Bulldog will make the connection and anticipate their potty breaks every morning. With consistency, this becomes a natural habit in their mind. French Bulldog on a leash at the park. Crate Training Your Frenchie Crate training is a great way to make potty training your Frenchie easier. It helps your Frenchie understand that the potty area and bed space are different. Securing your puppy inside a crate will make your Frenchie understand that they have to hold in their pee. Since this breed is hygienic by nature, your dog will not want to urinate where they sleep. Instead, they will hold their pee until they are let out again. Additionally, you need to confine your French Bulldog when you cannot accompany them. Take them out for potty breaks before you leave the house. And ensure you know how long they can hold in their pee before getting anxious. This is where they can go when they need to use the bathroom. This type of box is ideal for puppies and makes it easier for them to learn how to use the bathroom. Artificial grass can be used for dog potty area covering. Utilize Puppy Pee Pads Puppy pads are an excellent way to help your puppy understand where to go potty. Knowing the differences between your furniture and the floor will help your Frenchie understand that this is where they need to use the bathroom. You may consider placing a few puppy pads in the house and gradually moving them towards the door. This way, your puppy will eventually go on their own, not just when you take them out. A sad French Bulldog is lying on the floor. Use Treats as a Reward Using training treats as a reward will help your puppy make the connection that peeing outside is a positive skill. Remember to use food treats and not to overdo them. While treats are helpful to encourage your puppy to go out for potty breaks, using dog treats can make your puppy expect rewards whenever they do something good. You should reward your Frenchie with treats only when you take them outside or after they use the bathroom in their potty area. Slowly decrease the frequency of rewards as your puppy gets used to its new routine. A French Bulldog eating an apple, while looking up. Consistency is Key Puppy training may seem difficult at first, but as you continue with it, your Frenchie will learn and be able to adjust to their new way of living. The most important thing to remember is that you should always be there for your puppy and guide them along the way. Be there to guide them through the process and make it a fun activity for you both. You should never scold or force your puppy. Puppies can get anxious when forced into doing something. They need to understand the importance of this routine and be able to do it independently. Even so, try not to use force if they are not cooperating. What is a fluffy Frenchie? The more you practice, the easier it will be. Take your time, and start with small goals. While it can be hard, patience is crucial when potty training your Frenchie. French Bulldog puppy standing on the grass. You should also pay attention to signs they need to use the bathroom. Here are some of the most common signals you should look for: Running in circles. For successful potty training of your dog, there are other things to be aware of. Using a Crate for French Bulldog Potty Training At night or when you are at work, there are times when you cannot give your undivided attention to your Frenchie. This is where crate training comes in handy. Using a crate can be a saving grace in many aspects and especially when you are trying to potty train your dog but make sure you follow the steps for proper crate training before simply forcing your dog to be in a crate. The crate should only be big enough for your dog to stand, turn around, and stretch out. If the crate is too large, it is advisable to reduce the size of the crate. Most metal crates like this one include a divider to adjust the space your dog has in the crate. Customer support team based in Indiana Check Price on Amazon We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. The limited space in the crate is meant to discourage your dog from using the bathroom in there. Dogs are hygienic by nature and do not like to soil their own nest; therefore, they will hold it for as long as possible. Holding their bladder for too long can also result in issues such as bladder infections, just like it does for humans. So, do not force your dog to stay in a crate without the chance to use the bathroom for longer than you should using the potty schedule above for proper timing. Night-time Bathroom Trips French Bulldog potty training can be the most tiresome at night when you want to sleep until morning. But following these steps will get you back to normal sleep as soon as possible. During the first nights at your home, your new Frenchie should absolutely not be expected to hold their bladder all night. When your new dog initially comes home with you, make night-time bathroom breaks easier by having your dog sleep in a room with you, or you can relocate to sleep near it to make sure you can keep an eye on when it needs to be taken out. Read more on bedtime tips and tricks. Set an alarm in the middle of the night to check on your dog. It may be a good idea to do this for several nights to see how long your dog can sleep before needing a bathroom break. Getting a solid idea of this will help you get back to a normal sleep schedule and ensure that your dog is taken out at appropriate times during the night to avoid using the bathroom inside. Accidents Happen During your French Bulldog potty training, accidents are bound to happen. If you see that your Frenchie is about to do his business indoors, immediately pick it up or lure it outside. Even if your dog starts to go inside but finishes outside, reward it. If you are too late and your dog has an accident inside, clean the area with hot water and neutralize the smell with, for example, vinegar or a pet stain and odor eliminator. This removes residual odors and prevents the puppy from using the bathroom in that location again. Hi Becca, Congrats on the new pup! Some can take up to months to be completely trained for going outside. We know, not the greatest! Thank you February 4, Frankie Hi there, thanks for your comment! Unfortunately, when it comes to potty training, it is all about patience, positive reinforcement, and repetitive habits. Keep persisting. REPLY February 15, Anthony My frenchie uses the restroom when I take him out but he has the small tiny accidents in the house when he gets scared or excited. For example, if we play or right before I pick him up he gets scared when I pick him up. He does his business outside no problem. Goes to the door and hits the bell with his nose. But the last 2 evenings he does his zoomie around the house and we are finding pee. Even though he knows to go outside. It is just happening once in the evening. Any reason why he might be doing this all of a sudden? March 4, Frankie Hey Cristina, Thanks for checking out the website! There are a number of reasons that could trigger a behavior like this, anxiety or stress is one, for example. Sometimes if you are separated from your pup more than usual or they are getting less stimulation than they need they could do this to act out. All the best! She was pretty good about learning the pee pad at 8 weeks and then we went backwards. She went into eating her pee pads and newspapers. That set us back quite a bit. Any tips? She also likes to eat her poop. We clean up when we see her pooping or as soon as we find it. Crate training has been considered but she pees in her crate, on blankets and had a rough experience with her crate coming home. March 4, Frankie Hey Emilia, Thanks for sharing your challenges. They can be quite stubborn. You may feel like they are never going to get there, then all of sudden it will click. Just be patient, provide positive reinforcement, stay consistent with commands, and they will get there. If possible, staying at home with them for a week or two could accelerate things so you can set boundaries and create positive habits. When do I take the pads away from his crate. Thank you for March 4, Frankie Hey Chelle! There is no perfect timing for this. Good luck! I take her out all day and before bed and maybe she pees 2 times. What do I do? She is ruining every rug in the house! I scold her when I catch her and praise with a treat outside. She just stares at me like what? We love her … March 4, Frankie Hey Mindy! That sounds frustrating… It may be worthwhile getting an expert trainer to help you out or chatting with your vet. The only your pup gets the harder it will be to train them. With that being said, they can still learn habits at 2 years old. Try to avoid the negative scolding, and instead pick her up and place her where she should pee as she is doing it. Positive reinforcement when she does the right thing is always good. You could also try out an indoor grass mat or pee mat to bridge the training gap. In the end, patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement will get you there! REPLY March 15, Ksenya Our puppy female is 8 months old and most of the time she can hold for about 4 hours during the day and 8 hours at night. But with me, last month she jumped on the couch and peed on the blanket while looking at me, which was 30 minutes after she went outside. And yesterday I was lying on the couch, she jumped up and peed on the couch right beside my leg while looking at me, which was an hour after we walked. March 15, Frankie Oh no! That sounds like a real challenge… It does sound like she is acting out for some reason. At one point when Frankie was fully trained, about the same age, she would stare straight at us and pee on the bathroom mat after we got home from work. She knew it was wrong, but it was like she was acting out. We found that a timeout immediately at the time of the misbehavior worked well. He has been peeing and pooing on pads as and when he wants. I live in an apartment in a high rise so i time his pee and poo breaks to every 4 hours. He pees fine but pooing is so irregular and he has accidents on his bed. When he is outside, he gets distracted so easily a little wind or leaf blowing in the distance gets his attention. When he pees, I use the potty command and praise him tremendously with toilet break only special treats. I really need some advice on whether im doing something wrong or whether this is normal. I kind of feel like he resents me taking him out for toilet break however really enjoys it when we go outside for walking purposes and he gets to do what he wants. HELP please I really want him to learn how to go outside and need some sound realistic advice. April 2, Will Blunt Hey Nura, Have you considered using a grass mat can be fake grass inside as a transition? Unfortunately, potty training is not a perfect science, and it requires lots of persistence. The only thing you could add in is to use a mat which is easier for clean up and use this area to move him whenever he has an accident. I thought her to ring the bell but she only does it when we are at the door and I gave her treats every time she went potty outside. Please help! Have you considered getting a grass pad inside to begin transitioning them? Some Frenchies can take up to 8 months to be completely trained for going outside. My puppy has just turned 9 months. She is amazing throughout the day until it comes to potty training at night. She is still pooing on the pad or floor and not going dry all through. We have tried everything and not sure what else we can do. Each dog is different. Yes, 9 months is on the longer side, and if it concerns you perhaps you could run your tactics by a vet to see if there are any improvements you could make? There is every chance your pup is feeling the pressure and some of this could be related to psychological anxiety issues , not necessarily a physical inability. April 19, Taisia Hi, I am preparing to welcome a 9 week old frenchie into my family at the end of this month. Is that too young to start potty training? I confined him with 2 pee trays for a week to get used to it but then when i placed the pee tray in a big area, he still peed and pooped on the floor instead of going to the pee tray — even though the pee tray had pee pads absorbed with his pee. Please help me. Some Frenchies can take up to months to be fully potty trained. The most important thing is to maintain consistency, reward the right behavior, and be persistent. How often should we usher him out during the day and at night? We are at the beginning of this process. You also want to avoid creating a habit of needing to go too much. Start fairly small with hourly visits, and then slowly build on this and extending the time out. May 26, Shannon O'Brien Hey, I have a 10 month old Frenchie and he is great at everyone except the most frustrating, toilet training! I seem to struggle a lot with him going outside to the bathroom. I have some amazing days where he will go when I go on schedule to the toilet or when he needs to go outside he will bark at the door. But other days he is horrible! He will do many accidents inside. I also struggle with him through out the night I take him to the bathroom before bed and as soon as we wake up. But he always seems to have accidents inside! This is becoming very frustrating and please if you have any tips that you could give me to break his habit of doing it inside it was be appreciated. When Claude first came into our life, my wife and I honestly could only compare to having a baby again! Learning how to potty train our French bulldog puppy was hard work, took time, but in end… worked. In this guide I am going to share the mistakes we made, how we got him toilet trained properly, how long it took, how long it should take, how hard it is, how long they can hold their pee, and what techniques and products we used to get there in the end. How to potty train a French Bulldog? To potty train a French bulldog puppy successfully you need to take him outside or to his mat as soon as you see him starting to pee. Once he has finished, give him praise and a treat. French bulldog potty toilet training techniques Just like a child and they are just like naughty kids , potty training your Frenchie involves teaching them the routine of knowing when they need to use the bathroom and toilet. Once these French bulldog puppy training techniques have been repeated enough, the puppy will know what to do when they need the toilet and they will use everything that you have taught them in order to let you know that they are ready to go out. There are several different methods you can use to make sure you are teaching your dog the absolute right ways to potty train them in the safest and easiest way possible. The great thing about French bulldogs is that they are a clean breed that does their best to avoid having accidents, so if you have a set training schedule your dog or puppy will be up to date with their training in only the matter of a few short weeks. The 5 steps and potty-training schedule The first thing you should do is set a regular schedule for your French bulldog puppy. This will help them know when to expect their time to go out. Step 1. Schedule regular and consistent potty breaks You should take your puppy out first in the morning when you both wake up, after playing for a long period of time, and after eating dinner and drinking from their bowl. This is how we did it, and how we got there in the end. Step 2. Watch for the signs that they need the toilet Once you get acquainted with your French bulldog, you will be able to see the oncoming signs of them having to go to the bathroom. Some of these warning signs are fairly obvious, such as pacing around the room in a circle, pacing back and forth from the same rooms, whining at you, barking loudly, sniffing around you, and staring you dead in the eye. Step 3. Take them to their potty-training pads or outside If your bulldog is exhibiting any of these signs, then you should immediately assume that going to the bathroom is their top priority and get them to the potty pads or outside. This is where puppy training pads come in — and I recommend the best ones lower down this page. Step 4. Step 5. Reward them for success Once your puppy has finished going to the toilet, you should reward them with a treat. This will positively reinforce the good behaviour and lead to quicker results. Items You Will Need for Potty Training To properly train your French bulldog puppy, there are certain items you should have that will make the process easier. Pet training puppy pads When we first brought Claude home, we used puppy pads in his crate. This works two-fold. Firstly, they are scented, but secondly you can use them as the area for them to relieve themselves on. You can buy pet training puppy pads on Amazon. Decent dog leash It almost goes without saying but will obviously need a leash so that you can walk the dog to the proper toilet location if going into an unsecured outdoor area. Dog treats for rewards You will also need treats to positively reinforce your puppy for going to the bathroom when you tell them to. Toys will also help to positively reinforce your puppy into thinking that they are doing good with their potty training. In the crate we placed the training pads in one half, with his bed to sleep on in the other half. We bought a larger crate view which crate we recommend that we needed for his size at the time, as knew we would need it still on certain occasions as he grew older. I would also recommend you equip yourself with cleaning rags and an enzymatic cleaner to rid your house of the unpleasant aroma. Further tips on potty training including the psychology! You really need to know your dog on a personal level and understand their mindset. The puppy may learn to hold their defecation in for a longer period of time so they can squeeze some more outdoors time with you. Claude is now successfully trained to go to the toilet outside. If you are not home with your puppy at points during the potty-training phase, it would be a good idea to make sure your French bulldog is put into a restricted area, but also making sure that they are comfortable and have enough room to move around freely. Like previously mentioned, French bulldogs are a mostly clean breed that will avoid going to the bathroom in certain areas, such as where they sleep every night. If you find that your new Frenchie has had an accident inside the house, make sure you clean the area fiercely and thoroughly to get the smell out. If the dog continues to smell that smell, they might think it is okay to go in that same spot in the future. If you find that your Frenchie has unleashed one of his loads inside your house, you should gather the poop up in a small bag and deposit it in the part of the yard that you want your dog to go in. Their nose will become accustomed to the smell in that particular area and they will have an instinct to go to the bathroom in that spot of the yard. To make sure your French bulldog knows which areas are acceptable for going to the bathroom and which ones are not, be sure to take your puppy to the same area for a significant length of time. Once your bulldog learns that said area is acceptable for going to the bathroom, you can move on to a different area. Your bulldog will learn to remember which areas area acceptable bathroom spots and which ones they should steer clear from. This can actually make them more nervous, and lead to even more mess. Not only will these behaviours scare your dog and ruin their relationship with you, but they will also hinder the potty-training process and they could be aggressive towards you. You should also avoid using any cleaners that come with a scent of ammonia. Urine contains high acidic amount of ammonia. If your puppy smells this, they will most likely use this area in the house as a spot for going to the bathroom. How long to potty train a French bulldog? This is where I want to set you some realistic expectation. Whilst we started training Claude to go outside to the toilet from day 1, it took us 6 months until he stopped having accidents inside. Yes, he was stilling using the training mats regularly indoors, but to be honest, I think we should have just avoided using those altogether, and just focussed on his outdoor routine. It took us around 6 months to potty train Claude the Frenchie puppy. So, if you have ever wondered how long it should take to potty train a French bulldog puppy, all I can do is give you our personal experience. It took him 6 months so up to his 9-month birthday before he was fully trained. Are French bulldog easy to potty train? Are French Bulldogs hard to potty train? It can be hard and will take time. However with perseverance and commitment you will be able to fully toilet train your Frenchie. Our personal experience of toilet training I remember taking Claude to puppy socialisation training at 8 months old, and him peeing on the floor in front of all the other puppies. I was like an embarrassed parent! And this was despite the fact all the other puppy breeds were the same age as him. He got there in the end though! How long can a French bulldog hold its pee? How long a Frenchie can hold its pee and bladder will very much depend on their age. For example, a fully-grown French Bulldog can hold its pee for around 8 to 10 hours. French Bulldog puppies can hold their pee for a maximum of 4 hours. They will be peeing a lot in your house until completely toilet trained. My French Bulldog is still not toilet trained This is a common problem by owners of adult French Bulldogs who are not toilet trained. If you cannot get your adult Frenchie to hold their pee and stop peeing indoors and have exhausted all of the advice in this guide, I would recommend you seek the support of a pet behaviour specialist. Conclusion If you and your Frenchie pup have a strong enough level of respect and trust, this can go a long way, and the process will be loads quicker and easier than you ever even imagined. French Bulldog potty training can be achieved by reinforcing good behaviour and setting up routines and rewards you can minimize the amount of accidents that are going to happen on your brand-new rug. Just be patient with him and in no time at all you will know how to potty train a French bulldog and get the results you and him want.

Lifespan Sociability Buying a puppy and bringing him home for the first time is an expensive feat. And properly caring for your Pinny Poo over the entire course of his life can be costly. However, the love and devotion this dog will show you throughout the years are priceless. In order to find a happy and healthy Pinny Poo puppy from a reputable breeder that will thrive for years to come, you should be sure to do proper research. Ask for referrals from pet care professionals, such as veterinarians, groomers, dog walkers, and doggie daycare owners. It is critical to get a Pinny Poo puppy from a good breeder. A good breeder should provide support throughout the lifetime of your dog. Images of Poodles even adorn ancient Egyptian and Roman artifacts that date back to the first centuries BC. While Poodles can be loyal and playful, Miniature Pinschers can be territorial. Are These Dogs Good for Families? While his demeanor is typically on the quiet side, he will certainly bark to let you know that there are strangers approaching. While the Pinny Poo is a great dog for families with older children, his willful nature means that he might get possessive over toys or people. This could lead to snapping or snarling. If socialized properly, your Pinny Poo will get along with just about any dog, big or small! He will require a specialized kibble that caters to his specific size, age, and activity level. Since Pinny Poo dogs can become overweight rather easily, you should avoid foods that are heavy in carbs. His Poodle parent DNA could lead to potential digestive concerns, such as bloat. To combat this, look for low-fat foods and divide his meals up into two to three smaller helpings throughout the day. However, this is not the case! A Pinny Poo will gladly go swimming , hiking, play with fetch, and accompany you to a dog park. In fact, their parent breed, the Poodle, is the second most intelligent breed out of breeds when it comes to obedience. This means that your Pinny Poo will easily learn the basics and even excel in harder, more complex tricks. While positive reinforcement training is the best type of training for a Miniature Pinscher Poodle Mix, you also need to take a consistent and firm approach. You will need to brush him every day. Some Pinny Poo owners choose to take their dog to a professional groomer every month or so to keep their coat from getting mangy. To groom your Pinny Poo, equip yourself with a comb and a pin brush. You will also need to routinely bathe him, clip his nails, and clean his ears. Color Dilution Alopecia: This is a genetic recessive inherited condition that leads to patches of fur loss or thinning hair. It is more common in Miniature Pinscher Poodle Mixes with fawn-colored fur. Minor Conditions. It is a cross between the Miniature Pinscher and the Poodle. The best way to determine the temperament of a mixed breed is to look up all breeds in the cross and know you can get any combination of any of the characteristics found in either breed. It is very common for breeders to breed multi-generation crosses. Her mom is a Min Pin, weighing 10 pounds and her dad is a Toy Poodle weighing 8 pounds. I run a daycare so she is kennel trained for her safety. However, I do have 2 small children and an pound Boxer and everyone gets along great. She is really small so she wears a bright colored vest with bells attached to help us locate her better. We have started training her to avoid the " small dog syndrome ". She is learning to walk with a harness and she is sleeping better at night with lots of daily exercise. I've quickly become the pack leader in our home and she has learned that quickly as I correct her with a tap on the nose when she is disobeying. She has lots of puppy toys her size, yet she prefers the big dog toys the Boxer plays with and vice versa. As with all designer dogs, there are different generations of the Pinny Poo. F1 Generation The F1 generation of a Pinny Poo dog is the first generation produced by crossing a purebred Miniature Pinscher with an extremely popular Poodle, specifically the Miniature Poodle. This hybrid cross results in offspring that possess a combination of the distinctive character traits of these parent breeds. F1 Pinny Poos often have a medium length, curly coat, a trait inherited from the Poodle parent breed. F1B Pinny Poos are more likely to possess the curly coat, small size, and high energy of the Poodle gene, making them great pets for individuals with known allergies. The result is a more varied genetic makeup, with a greater range of possible appearances and temperaments. This generation can show a more balanced mix of traits from the Miniature Pinscher and Miniature Poodle. Their coats can range from short to long, and the most common color combination may vary. Given their lineage, F2 Pinny Poos continue to be active dogs requiring daily exercise, and they maintain the affectionate nature that makes them great companions and family pets. Pinny Poo History The Pinny Poo, a delightful hybrid cross of the Miniature Pinscher and the Miniature Poodle, is a relatively recent addition to the world of designer dogs. The Miniature Pinscher The Miniature Pinscher, one of the parent breeds of the Pinny Poo, has a long history dating back several centuries. Known for its spirited and fearless nature, the Miniature Pinscher brings a lively personality to the Pinny Poo mix. The Miniature Poodle The Miniature Poodle, the other parent breed, has a rich history, notably in France, but it actually originated in Germany. Used for truffle hunting and as circus dogs due to their intelligence and trainability, Poodles have long been popular pets. Their size, temperament, and physical characteristics make them a good choice for a variety of households and living situations. They have found their place as great companions, family pets, and even service animals. Pinny Poo Appearance The Pinny Poo, a hybrid of the Miniature Pinscher and the Miniature Poodle, boasts an appealing appearance that combines traits from both parent breeds. Size and Weight The Min Pin Poodle mix is a small to medium-sized dog, typically weighing between 6 to 10 pounds. Despite their small size, they can exhibit a big dog personality, always ready for play and adventure. Their height usually ranges from 12 to 14 inches, making them an ideal size for both apartment living and larger households. The texture of the coat can vary, usually wavy, reflecting the Poodle gene, but sometimes it can be straight, showing the influence of the Miniature Pinscher. Coat colors vary and come in black, black and tan, brown and white, and brown and tan. Their coat is not guaranteed to be hypoallergenic, but it can often be more tolerable for individuals with mild allergies. The head is usually long and refined, reminiscent of the Miniature Pinscher, and the tail is often docked, though this can depend on the preference of the breeder or owner. This gives them a perky, alert look. The eyes of a Min Pin Poodle mix are small and beadlike, usually expressing a lively and affectionate nature. The muzzle is typically dark and well-defined, contributing to their overall handsome appearance. On average, a healthy Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix can live between 10 to 15 years. This longevity is due in part to the robust health of its parent breeds and attentive care from its owners, which includes a balanced diet, regular exercise, and routine veterinary check-ups. Living Environment and Space Requirements The Min Pin Poodle mix, being a small dog, can easily adapt to a variety of living environments, making them a good choice for both apartment dwellers and those with larger homes. However, as an active dog with high energy levels, they need sufficient space to move around and expend their excess energy. Weather Sensitivity Due to their small size and coat type, Pinny Poos can be somewhat sensitive to extreme weather conditions. They tend to do better in moderate climates and may need extra care in very cold weather. During the colder months, a doggie sweater could be a good idea to help keep them warm during walks outside. Family Compatibility Pinny Poos make great family pets, and their affectionate nature means they enjoy being part of family activities. They can get along well with older kids who understand the etiquette of good behavior around dogs, but their small size might make them a little delicate for households with very small children. Make sure to provide them with a balanced diet, regular vet check-ups, and plenty of love and attention. Pinny Poo Temperament The Min Pin Poodle mix is a delightful blend of the Miniature Pinscher and Miniature Poodle, resulting in a dog breed that is affectionate, intelligent, and lively. Their temperament can vary somewhat due to the combination of two distinct breeds, but generally, Pinny Poos are known for their friendly and outgoing nature. Affectionate and Loyal Pinny Poos are known for their affectionate nature. They form strong bonds with their family members and are known to be great companions. Intelligent and Trainable Drawing from the intelligence of the Poodle parent breed, Pinny Poos are highly trainable dogs. They are eager to please and enjoy learning new tricks, which makes training sessions an enjoyable time for both the dog and the owner. However, consistent training from an early age is essential to harness their intelligence positively and prevent any potential behavioral issues. They are active dogs that enjoy daily exercise, be it a game of fetch, a trip to the dog park, or a short walk around the neighborhood. Their playful demeanor also makes them a great pet for older kids. Alert and Watchful Despite their small size, Pinny Poos can make good watchdogs. They are alert and aware of their surroundings, a trait inherited from the Miniature Pinscher. Social and Friendly Pinny Poos generally have a friendly disposition. They are social dogs that enjoy interacting with people and other pets. However, socialization from a young age is crucial to ensure they grow up to be well-rounded dogs. Overall, the Min Pin Poodle mix is a charming and adaptable dog breed with a temperament that makes them suitable for a variety of households. Their affectionate, intelligent, and lively nature, combined with their adaptability, makes them a great choice for many dog lovers. Their grooming needs are moderate and primarily depend on the type of coat they inherit from their parent breeds. Depending on the texture and length of their coat, brushing times a week should be sufficient. A slicker brush or a comb designed for long-haired dogs can be helpful in removing loose hair and preventing tangles. Bathing Bathing your Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix should be done as needed, usually once every month or so, unless they get particularly dirty from outdoor activities. Using a dog-friendly shampoo can help maintain the natural oils in their skin and coat. Always make sure to rinse thoroughly to prevent any residue from causing skin irritation. Regular checks and cleaning with a vet-recommended solution can help prevent the buildup of wax and debris, reducing the risk of infection. Nails Like all dogs, Pinny Poos require regular nail trimming to prevent overgrowth and splitting. Brushing their teeth several times a week can help prevent tartar buildup and gum disease. Additionally, providing dental chews can help maintain oral health. While the Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix is relatively low maintenance in terms of grooming compared to some other breeds, regular care of their coat, ears, nails, and teeth is necessary to keep them looking their best and feeling healthy. Always remember to make grooming a positive experience for your Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix to strengthen your bond and make future grooming sessions easier. Pinny Poo Nutrition Feeding your Min Pin Poodle mix a balanced and nutritious diet is essential to support their overall health and well-being. Generally, adult Pinny Poos require around calories per day, while puppies, due to their high energy levels and growth needs, may require slightly more. It supports muscle development and tissue repair, contributing to their overall growth and health. High-quality animal proteins such as chicken, beef, or fish should make up a significant portion of their diet. Carbohydrates Carbohydrates provide your Min Pin Poodle mix with the energy they need for their daily activities. Good sources of carbohydrates include whole grains like brown rice or oats, as well as fruits and vegetables. However, carbs should not be the primary component of their diet and should be fed in moderation to prevent weight gain. Fats Fats are an important source of concentrated energy for your Min Pin Poodle mix. They support skin and coat health and contribute to brain development in puppies. Look for high-quality sources of fats, such as those from animal proteins or omega-3 rich fish oils. On average, an adult Pinny Poo will require about 1 to 1. Pinny Poo puppies have smaller stomachs but higher energy needs, so they might need three to four smaller meals throughout the day. Providing your Min Pin Poodle mix with a balanced and nutritious diet will go a long way in ensuring they live a long, healthy, and happy life. With their high intelligence and eagerness to please, these dogs often respond well to training. Exposure to a variety of people, environments, and other animals from an early age can help them grow into a well-adjusted and confident adult. Public places, dog parks, and puppy classes can provide excellent socialization opportunities. Positive Reinforcement Pinny Poos, like many small dogs , respond best to positive reinforcement training methods. Rewards, praise, and treats can go a long way in encouraging good behavior. Remember, a good level of patience is required, as harsh methods can lead to fear and potential behavioral issues. Consistency and Routine Consistency and routine are key elements in training a Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix. Regular, short training sessions are more effective than infrequent, long ones. Not only does this teach good behavior, but it also provides mental stimulation for your Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix. House Training House training is another important aspect of training your Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix. Consistency and patience are crucial here. Regular bathroom breaks and praise for doing their business in the right place can help speed up the process. Exercise and Play As an energetic dog breed, Pinny Poos require regular daily exercise. Incorporating play into training sessions can make them more enjoyable and provide a way for your Pinny Poo to burn off excess energy. This could involve fetch, agility training, or just a short walk around the neighborhood. Training a Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix can take time and effort, but with patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement, your Miniature Pinscher Poodle mix can become a well-behaved and happy member of your family. Pinny Poo Exercise The Pinny Poo, with its lively and high-energy nature, requires regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Not only do they provide physical exercise, but they also offer mental stimulation as your dog explores their environment. A short walk around the neighborhood, or a trip to the local dog park, can suffice for this small yet active dog. Playtime Playtime is another great way to ensure your Min Pin Poodle mix gets their daily dose of exercise. This could involve a game of fetch in the yard, hide and seek, or even agility exercises. They are playful dogs that love engaging in fun activities with their family members. Mental Stimulation Pinny Poos are intelligent dogs that thrive on mental stimulation. Training sessions, puzzle toys, or interactive games can provide mental exercise. Teaching them new tricks not only stimulates their mind but also reinforces good behavior. Exercise Duration As a rule of thumb, an adult Min Pin Poodle mix should get at least minutes of moderate exercise each day, divided into two or more exercise periods. Puppies have a lot of energy, but they also tire quickly, so several shorter play sessions might be more suitable. It helps maintain a healthy weight, reduces the risk of many health problems, and can even help with behavioral issues by burning off excess energy. Plus, exercise is a great way to strengthen the bond between you and your Min Pin Poodle mix. Remember, every dog is unique, and exercise needs can vary based on factors such as age, health, and individual personality. Always observe your Min Pin Poodle mix and adjust their exercise routine as needed to keep them happy and healthy. Patellar Luxation Patellar Luxation, also known as slipped stifles, is a common condition in small dogs. Symptoms can range from occasional limping to persistent lameness in the affected limb. Regular vet check-ups can help detect this issue early and manage its progression. Sebaceous Adenitis Sebaceous Adenitis is a skin condition that results from the inflammation of the sebaceous glands in the skin. This condition, which can be inherited from the Poodle parent breed, can lead to hair loss, scaling, and secondary skin infections. While not as common, this condition can be inherited from the Poodle parent breed. Symptoms can include lethargy, decreased appetite, vomiting, and weight loss. Regular vet check-ups are crucial for early detection and management of this condition. Symptoms can include coughing, difficulty breathing, and decreased tolerance for exercise. Regular heart screenings can help detect this condition early and manage its progression. Entropion The condition known as entropion involves the eyelid turning inward and the eyelashes rubbing against the surface of the eye. This can lead to discomfort, excessive tearing, and potential damage to the cornea. Regular eye check-ups can help detect this issue early and prevent further complications. Owning one can be a fulfilling and joyful experience filled with adventure, love, and companionship. With the right knowledge and commitment, owning a Pinny Poo can be a rewarding and long-lasting relationship. They are a relatively recent hybrid breed, originating in the United States. They typically weigh between pounds and stand inches tall. Their coat is medium to long, dense, and usually wavy but can be straight. Pinny Poos live between 10 to 15 years on average. They are adaptable to various living conditions, including apartments and houses with yards. Pinny Poos are known for their high energy, playfulness, and affectionate nature. They require a balanced diet and regular exercise to stay healthy. Regular vet check-ups are essential for early detection and management of these conditions. We recommend checking the ingredients list and choosing a brand that features real meat as its first ingredient. Brands that have Chicken, turkey, lamb, or other meats listed first are preferable to brands that contain corn, soy, or meat byproducts. We also recommend looking for brands that provide your pet with omega fatty acids that can help with brain and eye development when your puppy is small and reduce swelling associated with arthritis as your pet ages. Luckily, its small size allows it to do a lot of running in the house, but we recommend setting aside at least 30 minutes each day so engage your pattern games and activities that will help it burn off excess energy. These dogs love chasing after balls and will usually walk nice on a leash, especially if you train it as a puppy. We recommend setting a few minutes aside each night immediately after playtime for training. Keeping your training sessions consistent will help your dog get into a routine and having some playtime first will ensure that it has burned off some excess energy before you get started. Plenty of positive reinforcement in the form of treats and praise will help keep your dog interested, and plenty of patience is essential to your success. Even intelligent dogs like the Pinny Poo can take several weeks to learn a new track and commit it to memory. A post shared by Trico! While not entirely hypoallergenic , it sheds very little and should only trigger allergies in the most sensitive people. You will also need to trim the nails if you hear them clicking on the floor, which is common with indoor breeds. Active dogs like the Pinny Poo change to wear the joint down faster as it runs and jumps. Symptoms include difficulty getting up from a resting position and the refusal to climb stairs. You may also notice your dog refusing to engage in other activities it used to enjoy but requires the doctor to jump or climb. Weight management, medication, and surgery can help slow the progression of hip dysplasia, allowing your dog to enjoy an improved quality of life. Bloat: Bloat is an extremely serious condition that can occur in any dog breed. It causes the stomach to fill with air putting pressure and cutting off circulation try other organs. Symptoms of bloat include drooling, panting, retching, restlessness, and a swollen stomach. Serious Conditions Cataracts: Cataracts is a condition that causes the lens of the eye to become cloudy. Some doctors may choose surgery, but there is frequently little that they can do. Symptoms include depression, vomiting, weight loss, bloody stools, irregular heart rate, and low temperature. Dogs that take medication frequently live long, happy lives. Male vs Female The difference is you see from one Pinny Poo to the next will be based more heavily on which parent it takes after more than what sex it is. Despite its small size, the Miniature Pinscher is an excellent guard dog. You could find the tiny Miniature Pinscher parent breed in the United States as early as the mids. Final Thoughts The Pinny Poo makes a fantastic family pet. We hope you have enjoyed this short guide and found the answers you needed. If we have convinced you to get one of these dogs for your home, please share this guide to the Pinny Poo on Facebook and Twitter. See also:.

Subscribe to our weekly newsletter to get latest worksheets and study materials in your email. The mixes of English Bulldogs are mostly calm, brave, and courageous dogs that may display a bit of stubbornness at times. The list below includes the popular English Bulldog mixes produced by crossing with several other purebreds. Old Anglican Bulldogge English Bulldog X Pit Bull Terrier An affectionate, loyal, and playful designer dog that protects its family against danger and can be rambunctious at times. Bull Pug English Bulldog X Pug The Bull Pug, also famous as Miniature Bulldog , is suitable for households with small children and is friendly towards pets with which it has been raised. Free-Lance Bulldog French Bulldog X English Bulldog It is a charming family pet with a moderate energy level, needing a fair amount of daily exercise to prevent boredom. Beabull Beagle X English Bulldog A medium-sized mix, the Beabull is a dedicated, intelligent, playful, and affectionate family companion. English Boston-Bulldog Boston Terrier X English Bulldog It likes to be involved in family activities and enjoys playing a game of fetch with its people. Bullador English Bulldog X Labrador Retriever The energetic, loving, and protective Bullador has good watchdog instincts, alongside displaying patience with children and other pets. English Boodle English Bulldog X Poodle It is a calm, quiet, family-oriented pet that can become destructive with prolonged loneliness. English Bullweiler English Bulldog X Rottweiler Broad and muscular, the English Bullweiler is a faithful companion that has an inherent instinct to protect its family. Golden Bulldog Golden Retriever X English Bulldog It is a friendly, affectionate, and courageous dog that may inherit the working ability of its Golden Retriever parent. Bull-Aussie English Bulldog X Australian Shepherd Since it is highly energetic, it is suited for a household with active people who can provide it with daily walks, exercises, and playing sessions. Miniature English Bulldach English Bulldog X Dachshund Although it is typically friendly with humans, interactions between small children and other pets should be supervised. Subscribe to our newsletter Join our subscribers list to get the latest news, and updates delivered directly in your inbox. Follow us on:. Lifespan Sociability Olde Double Pully puppies are quite rare. They are not technically a breed, so it is difficult to find a breeder that breeds them. Because this is a mixed breed, they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club. However, you may be able to find them at our local shelter. Some dog breeders breed this breed on the side, but this is most common in urban areas. If these dogs are common in your area, you may be able to find this mixed breed in your area. These dogs were bred to be companions, so that is their only purpose. They need early socialization to ensure that they are accepting of strangers. However, they are generally perfectly fine with others as long as they are introduced to others regularly. This breed is a mix of many different breeds. Mostly, this breed is a mix between the two modern different bulldog breeds. However, they share traits and genes with a variety of different breeds, including Mastiff. These dogs are mostly designed to be companions. While their ancestors were bred to be fighters, these dogs were mostly bred to be companions today. They do not have strong prey instincts, guarding instincts, or herding instincts. Most mixed breeds are relatively healthy. However, this is not true of the Olde Double Bully dog. Dogs who are bred for form instead of function are often unhealthy, which describes the Olde Double Bully perfectly. However, both parent breeds act pretty similarly, so it is usually easy to determine how puppies may act once they mature. These dogs are usually just used for companionship, not hunting or guarding. For this reason, they are typically very friendly and affectionate — two traits any companion dog should have. They are often quiet and well-behaved indoors, especially if they are trained and socialized from an early age. However, they are decently easy to train, since they typically love pleasing their people. With that said, these dogs can be a bit stubborn. In days past, they were bred to fight bulls and other large animals by themselves. Are These Dogs Good for Families? These dogs were bred to be family dogs. They are patient with children and adults alike. They are playful but pretty behaved indoors. If you would rather have a dog to watch TV with you all day, this is a good dog breed to consider. This also diminishes the chances of the dog snapping at the child as well, since dogs tend to snap when they are scared or injured. These dogs usually get along well with other pets. However, they are not particularly aggressive towards other dogs. They tend to be pretty docile and get along with most other canines. They will not usually chase other animals if socialized earlier. They are usually quite docile around other animals, including livestock and similar animals. As long as they are introduced to various pets when they are younger, they usually do not act aggressively towards them later on. Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. Should they take after their Bulldogge parent, an Olde English Bulldogge Mix will be a friendly, affectionate, and athletic dog that is loyal and devoted to their families. Olde English Bulldogges tend to have a gentle, sweet, and docile nature. They tend to complete sweethearts that love their families and love to play. Although they can be protective of their families, they tend to get along with just about everyone, including children, other pets, other dogs, and strangers. If the other parent breed has a similar temperament, then you should be able to expect something similar in an Olde English Bulldogge Mix. You can also meet the mother in-person to see the temperament she has and the manners she is modeling for her puppies. Although the breeder should have started socialization and training, it is up to you to continue to train and socialize a puppy once you get them home. An Olde English Bulldogge is a highly adaptable dog. They can do well in apartments as well as larger homes. They are more sensitive to heat than other dogs, but tend to do well in most climates. They also do not like to spend a lot of time alone. If they are also a highly adaptable dog breed, then you should be able to expect the same from an Olde English Bulldogge Mix. They could inherit a combination of conditions common to their parent breeds, all of them, or none of them. From the Olde English Bulldogge side, potential health concerns to be aware of include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and eye problems. The other parent breed could introduce other things, so you do want to ask about them. Reputable breeders will be screening their dogs to avoid passing issues on to puppies. Although Olde English Bulldogges are eager to please and intelligent, they can sometimes have a stubborn streak. This can be difficult sometimes for first-time dog owners to handle alone, but puppy training classes can help. Regardless, puppy training classes are a good idea. Not only do they strengthen the bond you have with your puppy, but they also offer socialization opportunities. A mixed-breed dog can inherit a coat similar to one of their parent breeds or a coat that is truly a combination of both. Should an Olde English Bulldogge Mix inherit the Bulldogge coat, it will be short and will shed moderately. But, it will also be low maintenance and only require an occasional bath as needed and brushing a few times a week. Weekly checks with careful ear cleaning when needed can help prevent ear infections. Because dental care for dogs is often overlooked, gum disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. Brushing teeth or using an enzyme toothpaste every day is ideal and can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Olde English Bulldogges tend to have a moderate activity level. Daily walks plus some playtime and extra activity are usually enough to keep them happy and healthy. The other parent breed could affect the range of exercise requirements in an Olde English Bulldogge Mix, so you do want to ask the breeder about them. A full-grown Olde English Bulldogge usually stands inches and weighs pounds. The other parent breed can have a big effect on this, especially if they are the mother, so make sure you ask about them. Although it is not a guarantee, you can also meet the mother dog in-person to get an idea of what size to expect in a fully-grown Olde English Bulldogge Mix. An Olde English Bulldogge generally lives for years. Although the other parent breed may affect this slightly, you should be able to expect a similar life span from an Olde English Bulldogge Mix.

Working with top genetics, we focus on both Structure, and Temperament once we isolate the best Black Frenchie Puppy Genes there is. Working with top dogs is only part of what we do. Black Frenchy puppies for sale A classic and beautiful dog, the black frenchie puppy for sale, or Black French bulldog puppy for sale is stunning. Overlooked from time to time with new and exciting colors on the rise, we still covet the original beauty offered by the Black French Bulldog. Black Frenchies for sale No matter the color, all of our French bulldogs for sale , come with our full health guarantee. All of our Frenchies for sale breed stock is genetic health tested 4 panel clear! No matter which French bulldog puppies for sale you purchase, all come with the same guarantee. Check out all of our website information pertaining to black Frenchies for sale. .We sometimes will have pure black french bulldog puppies but most often we have black and tan French bulldog puppies. Both solid and tan pointed colors are beautiful but there is just something about the tan points! In comparison, a black and tan frenchie has more detail then a plan black french bulldog. If you are considering finding a black frenchie consider the black and tan frenchie puppy as well. Shopping for a fluffy black and tan french bulldog is also an option. Black French bulldog puppies Reserve an Elon pup today and experience one of his amazing offspring! Elon can make Blues, blues and tans, Isabella, Isabella and tan, New Shade isabella, Lilac, Lilac and tan, fluffies, creams, basically everything under the rainbow with AMAZING compact structure, big heads, with both intelligence and temperament to boot! We breed for shorter bodies and legs, not long legged giraffes. We are proud that all of our Frenchie puppies for sale are raised in our home with our children, under foot. Every single French Bulldog puppy are well socialized and you can expect a playful, smart, inquisitive and loving professional Snuggle Bug. Available Puppies Notification List. He is a perfect example of a true solid black french bulldog. Jack is the main guy for our solid program. He can produce solid blacks as well as blues, chocolates, and lilacs. The picture to the left is an example of a Solid blue french bulldog. Extremely popular color. Do note, blue dogs do NOT keep blue eyes, only lilacs keep light eyes due to the fact they are also a chocolate. The picture to the left is an example of a solid lilac french bulldog. The lilac is both a combination of a blue and a chocolate by DNA. It has to be both. The appearance is a blue to silver coat, with the light eyes of the chocolate dog. The picture to the left is an example of a solid chocolate french bulldog. We do not produce these often, because we strive for blues and lilacs. But they are amazing nonetheless. More About Our Adult Bulldogs As a reputable breeder of French Bulldogs, we offer every pup in our program comfortable living conditions and thoroughly check them for genetic defects. Our well-maintained indoor facility meets the standards of the AKC and Georgia and is climate-controlled for the comfort of our Frenchies. Once the adults have completed our breeding program, we ensure that they find loving owners to enjoy the next stage of their lives. Have questions or interested in one of our Frenchies? Let us know! Your Name required. Me What is a Black French Bulldog? While the breed standard for French Bulldogs allows for several different coat colors and patterns, black is a popular color for this breed. Black Frenchies are quite easy to recognize as they possess no traces of other colors. What we mean by that is that they have a solid black coat color with no brindle pattern; sometimes they have a white patch on their chest giving them a unique look. Black French Bulldogs are a highly sought-after breed and they are relatively rare. In general, French Bulldogs come in a range of colors, including brindle, fawn, cream, and white. However, the solid black coat color is a recessive trait and can only be passed down if both parents carry the gene for it. As a result, Black French Bulldogs are not as common as other colors, which adds to their appeal and value. Because Black French Bulldogs are rare, they can be more expensive than other colors. A Black French Bulldog can make a wonderful and loyal companion for years to come, and their unique appearance and personality make them a valuable addition to any household. You should have your own Black Frenchie. Here is why! Black French Bulldogs are a popular breed of dog that has become increasingly popular over the years, and for good reason. They are a wonderful addition to any household, offering a range of benefits that make them the perfect pet for anyone who loves dogs. Here are some reasons why you should get a Black French Bulldog: Black French Bulldogs have a solid black coat color that makes them stand out from other dog breeds. Friendly and affectionate French Bulldogs are known for their friendly and affectionate personalities, and Black Frenchies are no exception. They are great with children and other animals, making them the perfect family pet. Low maintenance French Bulldogs have short, smooth coat that requires minimal grooming, which makes them a low-maintenance breed. Playful and energetic Despite their small size, French Bulldogs are known for their energy and playful personalities. Adaptable Black French Bulldogs can adapt to a variety of living situations, from apartments to larger homes, as long as they receive enough attention, exercise, and mental stimulation. This makes them a great option for those who are looking for a companion that can keep up with their lifestyle. Overall, a Black French Bulldog is a wonderful addition to any household. With their unique appearance, friendly personality, and low-maintenance needs, they are sure to bring joy and love into your life for years to come. It's important to purchase from a reputable breeder who can provide you with a health guarantee and ensure that the dog has been bred and raised in a responsible manner. Do Black French Bulldogs Shed? Black French Bulldogs, like any other Frenchie tend to shed throughout the year, more so in the spring and fall. During this period, they change their coat almost completely, replacing it with shinier, brighter and nicer fur. It's important to brush your puppy's hair at least two or three times a week using a Furminator. That will remove the undercoat that has fallen out but is still in the hair. We provide Health Guarantee TomKings Frenchies are bred from an award-winning bloodline to ensure the healthiest and most authentic gene pool. Before the breeding program was established, all parent dogs underwent a rigorous selection and examination process. We feed our adult dogs and puppies only the highest quality food and supplements to maintain their immaculate health, and they are checked by our veterinarian on a weekly basis. Our purebred French bulldogs come with a TomKings Health Guarantee that covers all genetic illnesses. Kennel-free living Our Frenchies are not raised in kennels but instead live in a loving family home with a large green garden. We believe that proper development, including strong musculature, a healthy immune system, and good manners, cannot be achieved in crowded spaces. As family members, our Frenchies are free to roam in our spacious garden and rest in our home. We ensure that our Frenchie puppies have ample opportunity to play and we teach them good manners around other dogs and people, including children. We provide love and professional care At TomKings, our puppies receive 12 weeks of both maternal love and professional care. This extended period of time spent with their mother and siblings fosters the development of a healthy dog personality and a well-balanced nature. Prior to joining their new families in the USA and beyond, our Frenchies receive all necessary puppy vaccinations, as well as deworming and parasite treatment. We also begin their potty training at an early age, making it easier for new owners to house-train their little angels. The price depends on varieties of features, including the color. Yes, it could be much lower, but you should have a more flexible budget to have better choices. The price always depends on the breeder or the store selling the dog. Yes, they have health problems, and I am talking about all Black French Bulldogs. Out of all types of Frenchies, the black French Bulldog has the worst health problems, and the sole reason is a result of the dominant black gene found in them. One of the most common health issues they do have later on is deafness and eye problems. Some do later have skin issues also, so if you are considering buying a black Frenchie just because it looks fancy. You should re-evaluate your decision. Nevertheless, some of their health issues are not associated with their gene but are just common health issues all French Bulldogs are prone to. Conclusion The Black French Bulldog is a great choice, and personally, as a dog lover especially the Frenchie breed , I would pick a black Frenchie, of course. For me, this color breed of french bulldogs displays the sophistication absent in other colored Frenchies. Others may disagree with my opinion, but everything depends on personal preference. Many people might want something else and prefer something cuter. If you are looking for something small, black french bulldogs are a good pick also, and you should consider them. Share this.

owning a goldendoodle puppy - The noise alerts the dog to the turn, and means that the human doesn't turn as the dog moves forward and so ends up in a yank. It works well. I use an attention getting noise these days when my dog is about to lunge to a sniff - I'll make my noise, and he turns towards me instead of lunging for something. That's a bit different though, although it did start off as part of Turid Rugaas' technique, it's what I trained the noise for in the first place. My new puppy had the problem of not being able to take one step and stay at heel outside the garden. I don't use a clicker and treats for loose lead - which for me means do what you want on a 2m lead apart from pull - but only for 'stay at my side' which is an informal heel. My puppy could stay by my side for 30 steps in the garden - but the first time we walked in more exciting places, I clicked for her being by my side - treat. I then clicked again for her not moving forward after the treat - treat. I then clicked her moving forward as my left leg moved and fed the 3rd treat on the move. The two treats for not moving forward just seemed to help reinforce 'being at my side' more than just feeding on the move. If she is struggling, I go back to clicking every left leg step, and I will stop if I have to. Left leg forward.Well, if that is what it takes, that is what it takes. It's really important that the click doesn't release the dog - I made this mistake with my first dog. He would release from a heel position on a click, so he would move forward on a click! To solve this, I fed in position, and fed in position some more. Always touch your left hip with the treat, then feed down the seam of your trousers. This way of sort of 'anchoring' the treat delivery to the position seemed to help a lot. Don't think it has to be click and only one treat - it can be click and several treats. Click to expand.This is fantastic information. Thank you so much! Poor thing. I just think they aren't that comfortable for her. I didn't end up getting one, thinking I may be able to find a better option online, but maybe if we try this technique to train we won't have to get one quite yet. Instead, they can prevent injuries from a dog getting tangled in their leash or pulling too hard with a collar. We consider them an excellent training aid that makes using a leash easier for both you and your pup. Many include other features that are handy, such as lift handles for dogs that need help standing. Type and Construction A Retriever is a good-sized dog, weighing anywhere from 50—80 ponds. Therefore, you need a harness that can control him and is durable enough to stand up to the challenge. There are several types, each one with its pros and cons. This style is an excellent choice for pups that get tangled in their leash because it keeps it away from their feet. The force of the leash goes to his back, instead. However, if your pooch is muscular with less-than-perfect leash manners, you may find him harder to manage with this type of harness. Front-Clip Harness The front-clip harness puts you in charge of your pup while requiring less work on your part. You can easily redirect him if necessary. The tightening harness takes care of that issue with a gentle tug that gets your Lab back on point. Just as with an unruly stallion, this type will give you control over your larger Retriever. Kind of Closure There are also several variations on the type of closure and how it secures on your Lab. It is the most popular option. There are also quick-release and bolt-on products. Material Nylon, by far, is the most common harness material. It offers a lot of advantages for Lab owners. They are lightweight. They will also dry quickly after a romp in the lake chasing a ball. These products are also affordably priced and excellent value for the money. You can get a blaze orange one for hunting and another in your choice of many colors and designs. Mesh is another popular choice for the same reasons. Another option for your water-loving pooch is neoprene for those winter walks. Other choices include polyester, canvas, and fleece. We prefer products that you can wash in between uses. A waterproof product is a welcome addition we appreciate. If you take your dog for evening walks, a reflective harness is a must-have. Other options you may find are padding over the chest portion for added comfort, personalization, and dual-clip items that you can attach in front or back. We liked the extra security that this last feature offers. However, the most important thing is comfort, especially if your pup pulls. Most products include a range of inches for each of the key measurements. A harness is not like buying a pair of pants for yourself. Many have different systems of adjusting the size. You need to take three measurements. Finally, you must find out the length of his back. Bear in mind that not all products will specify these three. Some only consider the chest size with adjusting parts for the others. We recommend two inches or the width of two fingers between the strap and your dog. The point is to make it snug to prevent escaping but not too tight to make your pup uncomfortable. After all, avoiding neck damage is one reason that pet owners opt to use a harness over a collar. We also suggest looking at the kind of adjustment on the harness. A sliding one with a clasp gives you a lot more leeway as opposed to a buckle, which has set holes. Of course, it is a fine balance between security on both ends of the spectrum. Its comfortable design was one of the most important features we considered. It provides the necessary snugness without the tightness that can make wearing it irritating. The Sporn Non-Pull Mesh Dog Harness is our pick for best value, thanks to its lightweight design that stands up to pullers. The research for our reviews taught us a vital lesson. These products are highly specialized for the dog, its leash manners, and the amount of control you must have over your Lab. These pups often make simple things like walks a challenge. However, with the right harness, it becomes a non-issue. Featured image credit: PxHere. Front and back Long lines are best attached from the back The back-attachment point is ideal for long lines. Attaching it to the front risks the entangling of the front legs. A front and back harness gives maximum flexibility. Double ended Two leash attachment points Using a back-attachment point lets you use a double-ended leash. A single-ended leash can tighten the harness when only attached to the front. Different harnesses have variable tightness degrees. One with front and back attachment reduces gaping by balancing tension. Clipping the leash attachments at two points sounds too much, but it is best. Optimal control comes from a properly fitted dog harness. Handling large pets become effortless. Material Material quality is the first factor. Nylon, polyester, and breathable hybrid materials are a few options. The harness must not put much pressure on the neck and throat. The pull should be evenly distributed throughout the chest and body. Look for a harness guaranteeing sturdiness and comfort. Strength A 6 month old lab can also drag you in public. Labradors are naturally inclined to swim, play and have high energy. Labs are famous military dogs. Dogs without no-pull training can be challenging to maintain in long walks. A harness with extra padding provides the required strength. Look for safety features, reliable buckles, and quality stitching only. Size Labradors are medium-sized dogs that mature at six months. But they grow after maturity too. A harness with an adjustable strap is handy. A labrador retriever continues to grow for two years. Opt for a flexible harness that can be adjusted. Adjustability Adjustability is a vital consideration for young pups. Adjustable harnesses fit any body type or size. Ensure the clips are adjustable and well-built. A strong and popular breed like a labrador can break cheap clips. Comfort Double padding is a must for both young and old dogs. A soft harness is comfortable and prevents injuries. Some are only made for running and keep your dog in great shape. Safety Safety features like reflective material is a must-have. It increases dog visibility during early morning or night walks. Labrador retrievers who are likely to escape are more secure with such features. Some come with attached handles for more security. It is easier to grab your pet if they take off. Harnesses with seat belt features are also becoming popular. Durability Durability becomes vital if you buy a harness for the lab puppy. Always pick harnesses with a higher durability rating. An extremely durable dog harness will last from puppyhood to adulthood. Go for fully adjustable ones for the best results. Cost Budget is essential but comes second to quality. Buying cheaper products will make you spend again. Though cheap pet products are pocket-friendly, they lack quality. Get a good harness instead of going for cheap ones. Soft vests are best for puppies and older labradors. A front, rear, or dual clip harness is great for adult labs. From dual clip to step-in harnesses, there are several. Labrador Vest Harness These are basic walk harnesses. They are simple, lightweight, and inexpensive and made of mesh, plastic, or nylon. Dog owners with well-behaved dogs on leashes can get these. But the front and back clip harness can be attached at all the points. A double-ended leash is required for the front clip attachment. One point is attached at the front and another at the back. It provides more control over your escape artist. A no-pull dog harness minimizes the pup pulls without hurting them. Tactical Dog Harnesses These are popular for training, trekking, and hunting. Besides labs, it is ideal for other dog breeds, like German Shepherds. Military and service dogs wear tactical harnesses often. Tightening and Control Harness These harnesses are more aggressive than standard ones. They will tighten when your dog pulls. Dog chests can be squeezed on tightening. Experienced trainers and dog handlers use them best. Not sure which chest piece is right for your dog? Our list comprises of the 10 best harnesses for labradors. They are made from sturdy material and have the necessary safety features. Now lets look at all the harnesses one by one. A good labrador harness requires time, effort, and patience to buy. Avoid cheap harnesses that can snap, fall apart, or break. Ensure the chest piece fits well and is not tight. The dog must move with ease wearing the harness. The no-pull harness alone is not enough. Train your labrador retriever for adequate results. Measure the neck and the chest for an accurate fit. Add two inches to the chest measurement in case your lab gains weight. Check the tightness after fastening the clips and buckles. Your two fingers must fit to ensure it is comfortable. If not, then it is too tight. But a harness is comfortable and makes training straightforward. Lab puppies may bite the leash too much initially. However, showing patience will go a long way. Here are a few tips to acclimatize dogs:- Positive reinforcement training is best to accustom your lab. Giving them treats or toys when they follow commands is beneficial. Start slow and small. Place the harness on the floor and let them explore. Let the dog get used to the buckles and leash. You can treat them for being brave and sniffing. Put on the harness if you see progress. Let the dog walk around wearing the harness. Even if it is for a few minutes, treat them. Start with small neighborhood strolls if the dog is confident. Increase the walk durations gradually for smoothness. Irrespective of their style, you need the best harnesses for effective energy management. These athletic dogs are up for everything from trekking to hunting. You need a high-quality harness for your lively pooch. The best harnesses for labradors are:- RabbitGoo is best if you want to control your large lab easily. Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart is for labradors having frequent car rides. Eagloo dog harness provides maximum comfort with its breathable material. Each harness offers unique features and benefits. The final call comes down to your requirements. Harnesses are better suited for walking dogs. Collars are more comfortable and hold the ID. Vets suggest using a harness for many dogs with breathing issues. Should a Labrador wear a harness? Labradors are athletic and sturdy. Having a harness makes them easier to manage. Be it walks, hikes, or treks, they are secured. What size harness for lab puppy is best? You will need at least a 9-inch long collar for a lab puppy. Most labrador retrievers fit into the large harness category. For accuracy, take labrador measurements. How do I stop my Labrador from pulling on the leash? Starting leash training with a harness early is suggested. Teach them self-control and practice attention. Treat them when the position is correct. Do not let pulling reinforce. Should I use a collar or harness for my Lab? Dog Harnesses are considered humane for pets. They give more control than collars. Different harness types also make it easier to choose for your lab pup. What size harness for 8 week lab puppy? The size range for a small harness for an 8-week-old Labrador puppy is: Chest: inches. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. Back Attachment Harnesses As the name suggest, these harnesses have the attachment for a leash on the back of the dog, sitting right behind the shoulder blades. However, you should know this: A harness that attaches a leash to the back is the worst kind of harness to use with a dog that likes to pull! So do not use them for this case. With the dog leash attached to their back, it can actually encourage pulling. It feels good to a dog, they like to oppose the pulling from behind with more pulling going forward. Front Attachment Harnesses Again, as the name suggests, these harnesses have an attachment for the leash at the front of your dog, right in the middle of their chest. So if they pull, they get turned. This is NOT the result they are after. A dog soon learns that they only get to go forward if they do not pull while wearing such a harness. And so — voila — the problem is solved. Front attaching harnesses are for stopping pulling while on a WALK, not a run or jog. The straps could become tangled, and this would be dangerous for you and your dog. For this you will need to train them not to pull and use a back attaching harness instead. Head Harness or Head Collar Not really a harness in the strictest of terms, but they are frequently described as such and are always grouped with the harnesses by retailers. Regardless, they are a great no-pull dog harness solution so I will include and discuss them here. Once their head is turned, it stops them dead in their tracks. So pulling only makes the walk stop, it effectively has an averse aspect to it the walk is stopped. They learn to not pull while wearing the head collar. A quick word of caution: You simply MUST allow your dog time to slowly get used to wearing the collar, how it feels and works, before ever using it on a walk. Some training and acclimatizing is needed and this could take perhaps a few days, though many dogs do take to them right away. Freedom No Pull Dog Harness The freedom no pull harness is a multi-purpose harness with many fantastic features, making it our top pick of all no pull solutions. It has a martingale style loop on the back so you can attach a leash to the rear and if your dog pulls, it puts gentle pressure on their chest and discourages pulling. The other benefit of the rear attachment is in case you like to go jogging with your dog. However, the more effective no pull solution is the attachment for a leash on the chest that will gently steer your dog if they begin to pull. You can attach a leash to the back, to the front, or even both to give yourself different levels of control and anti-pull aversion. The harness is extremely durable and the manufacturer will replace free of charge up to 2 chewed straps if your dog does manage to do damage. This is the best no pull dog harness we give top marks to and is our number 1 recommendation! Bonus: It currently comes with full details of a step-by-step training system to help you stop your dog pulling long term. PetSafe Easy Walk Dog Harness This simple, front of chest attaching harness gives you the ability to gently steer your dog to the side, stop their pulling and redirect their attention on to you when they pull. The placement of the leash attachment assures this happens automatically every time they pull and so it very quickly teaches them not to pull while walking. Made from strong and durable nylon webbing, with quick release snap attachments makes it very easy to put on and remove. Available in 8 different sizes for different girths and 7 colors, there is a harness to suit all dogs sizes and owners tastes. Head collars are also available and some say are even more effective than traditional, chest attachment harnesses. We discuss two of the most effective and most popular options below. But most dogs take to it very quickly and easily. Therefore, if they do pull, their nose automatically gets turned, their head follows and instantly they become facing you. Your dog cannot pull if they are facing toward you so with this device, as soon as they pull they instinctively stop and the problem is managed…and within just a few minutes of first use! Available in 5 sizes from XS to XL, and 8 different colors, there is a size and color to suit every dog. Like all the harnesses on this page, they are short term solutions. This has absolutely no effect on the eventual price that you pay and we are very grateful for your support. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Similar in style to the Rabbitgoo — the Winsee is both a walking and a front range harness. The harness itself is made from a D oxford fabric with high density that prevents your Lab from easily chewing or tearing it. Collar or a Harness for a Labrador Labradors have a lot of energy and require much exercise as a result. Many Labrador owners at first default to giving their Lab a dog collar and walking them that way. After a few weeks of frustration from being dragged around on the street with constant pulling, some consider an alternative to their collars and decide on a dog harness. Pulling in Labradors is not uncommon and something seasoned Lab owners will be familiar with. For first time owners, however, it can be not only frustrating but challenging. It can not only cause discomfort for you, particularly your hands but can lead to discomfort and stress for your dog. Regardless, if your dog is a puller or not — we suggest using a collar solely for ID tags to help identify them should they get lost. Types of Lab Harnesses There are several types of harness out there, which can be a little daunting at first. Labrador Vest Harness Simple, inexpensive and used as a basic walking harness. Often made from plastic, mesh or nylon — they are designed for lightweight general wear and for dogs who are already well behaved on their leash. Back clip dog harnesses have a lead attachment point at the back. A standard leash can be clipped on for normal walking. Front clip harnesses, such as the SENSE-ation, have an attachment point solely at the front of the chest area. These are very different than your traditional harnesses in that the lead only attaches to the front — which may seem odd at first — however, they can often be recommended by trainers as an easier way to reduce pulling. Front and Back clip harnesses have points at both the top back and include a secondary attachment point at the front chest of the harness. One point attaches to the back, the other to the front. This offers increased control of your dog, similar to the reins used on a horse. A no-pull harness is made to reduce the impact of the dog pulling on their lead, as well as aid in the training of your dog. Tightening and Control Harness There are more aggressive than standard anti-pulling harnesses, and tighten when your dog starts pulling. These can be uncomfortable as they can squeeze the dogs chest as they tighten. These harness types are best reserved for experienced dog handlers and trainers. Although often associated with Military and Service dogs, they are also to be found as training harnesses, hunting harnesses or general trekking. Labrador Harness Size and Measurements Standard adult labrador sizes vary, but according to the American Kennel Club , an average male labrador height is between .This places Labs in the category of a medium-large breed, with harness sizes reflecting that. Normally this will be a large-sized harness, though it will vary depending on the manufacturer. To get an accurate measurement for your Labrador and Lab puppy, follow the steps below. Measure The Chest The most crucial part of your measurement is the chest. Take a tape measure and wrap it around the widest part of the chest. This is found a few inches behind the front legs. Add a Few Inches You should all a couple of inches to the total to allow for movement and growth. Take the tape measure and measure around the circumference of the neck. What Makes a Good Labrador Dog Harness Finding the right dog harness can take not only time and effort but patience from you, the owner. Be careful not to select a harness that is likely to fall apart, snap or break when put under strain. Check that the harness fits well and allows for movement. Summary We hope you found our article on the best harnesses for Labradors helpful in making your choice. Dog harnesses are a good alternative to walking your dog on a collar and lead. Harnesses are also great if your dog is a puller. They can also be used for training your dog to stop them from tugging on their leash when walking them. You should also find a harness that fits the size of your breed, as too loose opens them up to escape and too tight can leave them uncomfortable. There's little he doesn't know about dogs. TopDog loves agility but is far too unfit to keep up. Offers advice and articles on dog harnesses, collars, travel, food and temperament. Is woeful at speaking foreign languages. There is therefore no risk of the harness rubbing behind the legs. There are no martingale attachments anywhere on this harness, so there is nothing to tighten anywhere when the dog pulls. The Balance harness has both front-and-back attachment points. Just like all front-and-back attachment harnesses, this gives you great flexibility. The harness is really good quality and the metalware is likewise. This means that dogs that dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Balance put around their neck in a similar way to a snap-up collar. Any gaping really is very minimal when both attachment-points are used, even less than on the Freedom. It is essentially always a black harness, but the vertical strap on the back comes in different colors. If you have multiple dogs, the colored back strap is sufficient for telling you which harness belongs to which dog. But if you are someone who loves different colored harnesses, the Balance may not suit — check out the Freedom. According to the manufacturer, you can attach just to the front-attachment point. But the Balance works best when used in conjunction with a double-fastening leash. So you will need to purchase one separately. The Balance harness does tend to rotate slightly when in use. The neck and girth straps slightly pull the colored back strap off vertical. If this troubles you, check out the Perfect Fit below. Similarly, it would be really hard for even a seasoned escapologist to back out of a Perfect Fit harness. For a growing Labrador puppy, it is possible just to purchase and replace one piece of the three needed for a harness. Should the chewing-machine that is your Labrador puppy, succeed in chewing through the front of the harness, again, just that part would need to be replaced. The Perfect Fit also has a 40mm thick option. This is a very comfortable and stylish-looking harness for large or strong Labradors. The Perfect Fit harness has both front-and-back attachment points, just like the Freedom and Balance, giving the same flexibility. It is safe to be left on the dog when running off-leash. The harness is webbing, backed by soft fleece. This makes for a really comfortable and soft harness, for your Labrador. This means that dogs which dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Perfect Fit put around their neck. The front-attachment is a large metal D-ring. My plan is to wrap the metal D-ring in duck tape, to silence it. You will need to purchase one of those separately. I anticipate this getting worse with the next few washes. This does not affect the comfort or function of the harness, obviously. Labs love to swim, and have been known to roll in stinky things! Ordering Issues? Lastly, I should say that I had heard about the Perfect Fit harness for about a year before I finally bought one to trial. Selecting three different-sized component parts for a harness and choosing a width of strap is a much more involved process than choosing one size. The Dog-Games website has become a lot easier now, with breed recommendations, but some buyers might still find it confusing. And my top three picks of front-and-back fastening harnesses for Labrador Retrievers are:.


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owning a goldendoodle puppy - A crate is an essential tool in the house-training process. It can also be used to keep your pet and property safe. Crates are also a great way to transport your Labradoodle in the car. All Notch Hill Labradoodle puppies are introduced to crate training in a positive way before being sent to their new homes. If you continue to follow the below tips, your puppy will learn to love his crate. Instead, place the crate in an area of the house where your puppy spends a lot of his time. Put a few blankets and toys inside and leave the door open. The goal is to get him comfortable with going inside the crate. Do not close the crate door for the first time until he is completely relaxed. Crates should never be used as punishment. Feeding Your Puppy in the Crate When your puppy is happily entering the crate, your next goal is to get him comfortable with the idea of staying inside the crate for a longer period of time. One of the best ways to accomplish this is giving your Labradoodle his meals inside the crate. Place the food in the back of the crate so that he goes all the way in, but keep the door open. This creates a positive association with the crate. After he is done eating, open the door immediately. Then you can start leaving him in the crate for longer periods, adding a few minutes with each meal. This process can take several days or weeks. Crating Duration Guidelines During the day, puppies and adult Labradoodles should not be in the crate for more than 5 hours at a time. Follow these daytime guidelines to avoid potential problems: Important Reminders Don't ever leave a chain, prong, training, or slip collar on your Labradoodle when you put him in his crate. Give your puppy the opportunity to fully eliminate before being crated. Puppies do not like to soil their sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Most adult dogs can stay in a crate for the entire night without a trip outside. However, young puppies and some old dogs cannot physically hold their bladders and bowels through the night. Is Crate Training Cruel? The short answer is no. Far from it actually. Most people will usually combine the thought of keeping your dog in a cage when it is home by itself, as something negative. This is because humans will compare this with the thought of ourselves being locked behind bars. But for the dog, this experience is quite different. By nature, dogs are cave animals, which you can usually see when they are sleeping. Dogs will usually try and sleep under a table or in a corner of a room. In nature, wolves and wild dogs will often bury holes in the ground for them to sleep in. Basically, a dog just wants to feel safe when they have to sleep or be left at home by itself. Crates serve the very useful purpose of preventing any problems regarding destructive behavior and other issues related to a puppy being home alone. A crate helps to educate your puppy and also helps when having visitors who might not be too happy around dogs. And of course, they are also quite helpful when you are traveling with your dog. Where Should the Crate be Placed? The best area where to place your crate is in the corner of a room of the house, where there is neither too cold nor too hot and no gusts of wind, Usually, a dog will want to be around their leader, you, so place the crate somewhere where it can see and hear you most of the time. Later on, you can get a specific bed for your labradoodle if you want. How Should a Crate be Designed A dog crate is usually built like a square cabinet, made from metal wire, plastic, or wood. My recommendation is to get one of metal as they seem to be less susceptible to the bites from a puppy. It has been quite great for us and seems to get very positive reviews on Chewy. No matter what type of crate you do end up getting, just remember to get one that is large enough for your dog to be able to stretch fully while laying on the side and to be able to sit without its head hitting the ceiling. Also, remember that a crate that is too large loses its purpose of creating a sense of security for your labradoodle. It is also possible to buy specific washable beds for some crates, else I would recommend getting a blanket for the crate. This will make the crate as cozy and comfortable as possible. When to Start the Training As soon as possible! And if you adopt a puppy you can begin as soon as it arrives in its new home. If you do decide not to keep the crate, remember to take it slowly so your dog has a chance of getting used to not having it around anymore. Educating an older dog is a lot harder and requires more patience. If you plan on traveling a lot with your dog, keeping your crate and bringing it with you is a good idea. Cleanliness in the Crate You should take your puppy for a walk at least every two hours. But accidents will happen, and usually at night. To minimize the risk of this, take your dog for a walk just before bedtime, and first thing in the morning. If you hear some whining during the night, get up and take the dog for a walk. Also, take your puppy for a walk immediately after dinner time, and if you see it sniffing intensively on the floor. If there is an accident, just clean it up as soon as you notice it using a special odor remover. It takes time and patience to introduce the crate as a home and a special place for your puppy. This way it will most likely only take a day or two before the puppy will go inside and lie down. After a few days where the dog has slept in the crate with the doors open, try casually closing the door, preferably while your dog is sleeping, and try to have it closed for a few minutes, or until the dog awakes. When the puppy awakes, open the door and praise your puppy and call it outside the crate. Gradually try to expand the time that the doors are closed. In time, you will be able to stay in the room with the doors closed, and your dog will lie down until it falls asleep. When this has become comfortable for your dog, try to leave the house and come back immediately. The next step is to leave the house for longer and longer. Continue expanding the amount of time you are able to leave the house. And try having a daily schedule for what you do before leaving the house. After the Habituation Have your dog get into the crate periodically during the day, until a maximum of 2 hours. Give your dog a chew toy as occupation, and remember to remove any collar which could otherwise get stuck somewhere in the crate. As you might end up with a dog that could get aggressive when people get near the crate. Make sure your dog gets used to you entering the crate once in a while. Wait until it has stopped barking or whining for at least 10 seconds before opening. Final Words Hopefully, this has given you some advice for crate training a labradoodle puppy. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. Along with housetraining, this is one of the first things you should do when you get a new puppy. Not all dog owners choose to crate train their dog, but it can be beneficial to both you and your dog. Here are some tips and tricks for crate training your Labradoodle. Why Crate Train? The idea behind crate training is that dogs like to have their own special spot. This place is a safe haven where only they can go. It teaches them to hold it until they are let outside to potty. The crate also becomes comfortable place for them to sleep and a safe way to travel. What to Look for in a Crate You want a crate that is not too big, but also not too small. As your pup grows, you will need to get a larger crate. Your dog should be able to stand up and turn around in their crate with ease. The crate should be comfortable and cozy. Some organizations even rent out crates so you can switch when you need a new size. It should not be used as a place to go for punishment because then your dog will be hesitant to go into the crate. It will take some time to get your Labradoodle fully crate trained, so be patient and positive. First, let your dog explore their new crate. Put the crate in the kitchen or living room and let them look around on their own time. Make the crate more comfortable by placing a blanket or cushion on the inside. After a while, they might want to go inside a have a look for themselves. If your dog has no interest, go ahead a put a toy or a treat in the crate. Once you get to the point where your dog is willing to go in the crate, start feeding them in the crate. Put the food bowls on the inside and let them enter to eat their meals. Learning to be calm in a crate will make things like staying in a kennel, visiting the vet, and traveling by car easier for them. Plus, a crate can be a comforting, homey place for your dog to feel secure and unwind. So, how do you train your new pup to see their crate as a special place to relax instead of a place of confinement, anxiety, or punishment? Start by making their crate a fun, comfortable place to be. The key to successful crate training is to create positive associations between your dog and their crate. Place their bed, favorite blanket, or an old t-shirt with your scent in there for comfort. Remember—a crate should never be used as a form of punishment. Introduce your dog to their crate slowly. Throwing your puppy in their crate and closing the door will only make them fear it. Instead, let them explore and get to know it first. Encourage them to enter with treats, words in a positive tone, or a special command they can learn to associate with crate time. Feeding them meals in the crate can be helpful too. Gradually crate them for longer periods as they grow more comfortable. Once your dog can sit in their crate without whining for those 5-minute intervals, work your way up to longer ones. When they enter, reward them with praise, a treat, or a toy. Place a blanket over the crate to block out any potentially scary and distracting sights and sounds. Then, walk away. Start with minutes at a time, then as they improve work up to 30 minutes. To reserve one of the exceptional puppies from our upcoming litters, call or email Blue Star Labradoodles today! How do you crate train your new Labradoodle like a pro? First, find a crate that is the right size for your dog and that is secure enough to prevent a sneaky escape. This is the crate I use with my Labradoodle. Introduce the crate slowly by allowing your puppy to freely go in and out before you attempt an extended period of crate time. Before crating, engage in a period of rambunctious play with your puppy, and make sure to give your Labradoodle plenty of potty opportunities. When playtime is over, sit calmly by the crate and brush or pet your puppy to instigate a sleepy-time response. Then, once your puppy is soundly snoring, place her gently into the crate and shut the door without locking it. With time, your Labradoodle will associate his crate with rest time, and crating your Doodle will be a stress-free experience for you both. It emits a life-like heartbeat that can calm and sooth them. You can even add a heat pack to make it even more realistic. Sounds simple, right? The truth is, crating can be one of the simplest training exercises for you and your pup, but it can also be laden with challenges and unexpected issues. If you are ready to begin the process of teaching your Labradoodle how to love his crate, read on for tips on crate selection, introducing your puppy to his new hideaway spot, and tackling issues as they arise. Many first-time dog owners are horrified at the idea of leaving their dog in a small, enclosed space for hours at a time. I love her too much! Dogs are den animals: even though they have been domesticated over thousands of years, they still retain some wild canine instincts. One of those instincts is to rest in a spot that is safe and offers protection. According to the Humane Society of the United States , most dogs actually crave periods of solitude, and a crate gives them a special space where they can secure that solitude when and if they need it. While you may use crate training specifically to house your Labradoodle when you need to leave, you may find that your dog goes in and out of her crate even when you are home. If crate training is approached slowly and methodically, your dog will come to love this special spot. Once your Labradoodle is acclimated to her crate, a wide variety of benefits will be seen. Instead, a dog crate is a sanctuary. Choosing The Right Crate The single most important part of successful crate training is choosing the right crate, and this often leads to Doodle owner panic. There are thousands of crate models on the market today, and it can be absolutely overwhelming for first time Labradoodle owners to know which crate to buy. This is the crate I got for Oliver as a puppy …and he still uses it today. We wrote a helpful guide on choosing the right crate which you can read here. Which materials are safe for your fluffy furball? How secure should the crate be? How big? Does it need attached water and food bowls? Multiple doors? An enclosed top? Everything else can take a back seat. Dogs frequently reposition themselves when resting, and a crate that provides room for this is essential. Dogs kept in crates that are too small may develop anxiety issues or even health problems like joint stiffness. This can be problematic for Labradoodle owners who want to start crate training when their Doodle is still a puppy. A crate that is the perfect size when your dog is six months old is going to be far too small when your puppy reaches a year in age. Large crates with dividers will let you adjust the space as your Labradoodle grows, so a single crate can function well through the various stages of doggy development. Useful Crate Features The size of the crate may be the most important feature, but there are other factors to consider when investing in a high-quality dog crate for your Doodle. These features are not necessities, but they may make your Labradoodle more comfortable and your life a little easier. Here are four simple steps to ensure crate training success. Allow your pup time to get acclimated to this interesting, new cubby. If your snuggle buddy falls asleep in your lap after a period of play, gently move him to the crate and let him continue to sleep with the door open. This accomplishes three things. First, it will tire her out and make her more likely to spend her first crate experience in deep, blissful sleep. Second, it will give her ample time to go potty, which helps to avoid accidents. And lastly, it gives your Labradoodle time to feel connected to you, her human companion. Crating can be stressful for a puppy because they are spending an indeterminate amount of time without you in the home. When you walk out the door, your dog has no idea when, or even if, you will return. Playtime reinforces bonds and helps your Labradoodle puppy feel nurtured and engaged. You can transition your puppy from exuberance to exhaustion by sitting quietly and petting or brushing him. When your Labradoodle is relaxed and starting to sleep, place him in the crate and continue soothing him until he falls asleep. Then, quietly shut the crate door and immediately leave. If you crate your Labradoodle for four hours the very first time, she is going to have an accident. This will lead to discouragement, frustration, and even fear of the crate. You want to establish crate milestones that your puppy can easily achieve. Each time you return to a puppy who has successfully stayed in her crate with no issues, you reinforce the crate as a positive location. Start your Labradoodle off with periods in the crate ranging from a few minutes up to an hour. Once she is acclimated to staying in the crate alone for an hour, you can gradually begin increasing crate time. Common Crate Training Mistakes In the world of dog training, a simple mistake can often lead to months of problem behaviors that need to be slowly and meticulously corrected. Here are some of the most common crate training mistakes made by first-time Labradoodle owners. Rushing the process: Dogs need time to acclimate to changes, so if you introduce a scary-looking crate and immediately shut your pup inside this unfamiliar area, it may lead to anxiety or panic. Forgetting the potty break: Puppies can only hold their bladders for a couple of hours at a time, so be sure to give your Labradoodle a chance to go potty immediately before putting him in the crate. When you return, immediately take your puppy to go potty, and praise him when he goes. Punishing with the crate: If your puppy associates her crate with punishment, it will cease to be a safe and relaxing environment for her. Never punish your puppy by banishing her to the crate. Similarly, never punish your puppy for soiling her crate. Simply take her outside for a potty attempt, praise her if she goes, and clean the crate promptly to remove any lingering odors. Crating multiple dogs together: Yes, puppies love to snuggle with one another, and it can be tempting to think that crating two dogs together provides them with companionship and comfort. However, as puppies grow they will need their own spaces, and separating two pups that have spent months in the same crate can be traumatic. If you have multiple dogs, crate them separately but in close proximity to one another. Cluttered crate environment: Sure, you want your puppy to be entertained while crated, but the crate should predominantly be an environment of serenity. One toy is enough to provide your Labradoodle with something to do without cluttering up the zen-like atmosphere of the crate. There are issues that can pop up between pup and crate, and these may be chalked up to a mistake made during the training process, an issue with the crate itself, or even just the specific personality of your dog. My Labradoodle cries constantly when I put him in his crate. After all, who wants to hear their precious puppy crying? If your Labradoodle whines or barks immediately after being put into his crate, sometimes waiting for him to cry himself to sleep is the best course of action. If your puppy is panicking i. Give your puppy calm, soothing pets and snuggles until he calms down. Then, take one more trip outside for a potty break, and try to introduce your dog to the crate again. You may need to do this several times until your pup has worn himself out to the point where he can fall asleep in his crate. My puppy always makes messes in her crate. If your pup has too much room, use a divider to cordon her to one side of the crate to avoid messes. Labradoodle puppies younger than one year need to go potty once every two hours to be comfortable! Try to schedule a few mid-day breaks for your Labradoodle puppy. Finally, you might want to watch how much water your Labradoodle is drinking in the hour leading up to crate time. Congratulations, you have a strong-willed pup on your hands. Some dogs will do everything in their power to avoid being put in their crate. Your dog may brace himself against the crate door, drag his paws on the ground, or turn into a puddle of dead weight and force you to manhandle him through the opening. Because he hates the thought of being separated from you. Be sure to spend plenty of time playing with your Labradoodle puppy before crating him. Also, some dogs will relax when they are brushed for a few minutes before crating. Crate your Labradoodle firmly but calmly. My Labradoodle is an escape artist, and no crate can contain her. If you have a little Houdini on your hands, you might need to get creative. Some dog owners, however, have to resort to zip ties to keep their magic canines in check. Every bed I put in the crate gets shredded within hours, what gives? Your Labradoodle puppy has an innate desire to chew, and this desire can only be redirected, never eliminated. Dogs are perfectly happy resting on a hard surface for a few hours at a time. Crate your dog without the bed, and leave the comfy cushion for times when you are at home and supervising. Next, find some sturdy toys that will stand up to persistent chewing, and put one in the crate with your Labradoodle. You can find toys that can be filled with goodies to occupy your Doodle pup for hours on end, but any toy will act as a healthy outlet for that chewing instinct. Some owners find success by purchasing several toys and rotating them in the crate on different days. Puppies are information sponges, and they love the stimulation and reward that comes from learning new tricks. First, try not to act differently when you are preparing to leave your puppy. If your dog senses that you are stressed by the act of leaving, she will internalize that stress. Next, stay positive and upbeat, and when you are ready to leave do so promptly and without fanfare. Start with short trips away from your dog, so she can learn that you will always return after leaving. Finally, make sure her crate is comfortable and stress-free, so she has a space to relax while awaiting your homecoming. If you have to leave your Labradoodle for more than four hours without a break, you will probably need to make arrangements for him to get a reprieve from the crate. Apps like Wag or Rover are great ways to locate passionate dog-lovers who will visit your dog mid-day for a walk or some much-needed play time. Doggy daycare facilities are also incredibly beneficial. Not only will your dog be active and exercising throughout the day, but these communal dog spaces teach valuable socialization skills. Leaving your dog crated for an extended period of time will make him uncomfortable and could lead to crate anxiety, so be sure to plan ahead. Wolves rarely sleep in the open, preferring instead to find a cave or hollow where they can be protected on all sides while they snooze. Their canine cousins still possess this innate desire, and a Labradoodle left to his own devices inside a sprawling home can feel anxious and unprotected. These feelings of anxiety coupled with the freedom to roam are the only necessary ingredients in a recipe for disaster. Start crate training as early as possible, and take it slow. Eventually, your Labradoodle will recognize her crate as her own special space, and she will likely seek it out when she needs some downtime. Related Posts:. They praise it as a wonderful tool and somewhere that their Doodle feels safe and happy. But, others may argue that it is a cruel tool, used to cage dogs. In truth, it will all depend on how an owner uses their crate. Or to turn it into a place your dog hates. But, at the same time, when used correctly, your Labradoodle puppy can love their crate. They can use it as their own safe space away from the noise of everyday family life. In fact, doing so can lead to a very unhappy and stressed puppy. What is Crate Training? A dog crate is simply an enclosed bed area for your Labradoodle puppy. Or when their puppy needs some sleep. For many dogs, a crate will be a safe and secure area where they can take themselves to relax and wind down. Many owners will use a crate at night, when sleep training their puppy. This ensures their puppy is safe at night, but also not causing havoc through the house! However, crates can also be used throughout the day to encourage your puppy to get some much needed sleep in those early months. Or to help them calm down if they get overexcited. On top of this, a dog crate can be a very useful potty training tool. All dogs will try to keep their sleeping area and their potty area separate. But, more on this later. Remember, you are best placed to know what is right for your Doodle! Pros of Crate Training Can keep your Labradoodle out of mischief and safe when you leave them alone for short periods When done correctly, will be a safe and comforting place for your Labradoodle Offers somewhere quiet and calm for young puppies to get some rest throughout the day Can be a very useful potty training tool Can make travelling with your Labradoodle a lot easier Cons of Crate Training If misused, a crate can be a stressful and frightening place for a puppy, eg. And, of course, your puppy is a very different size now than he will be in a few months. The best method here is to choose a crate that should be the right size for an adult Labradoodle. Try to estimate how large your puppy is going to grow. Then, buy a divider for your crate, so that you can section off a smaller section for your puppy to use. Your puppy needs enough room to stand, sit, and turn around comfortably. But any larger than this and your pup may end up using one end of the crate as a toilet area. In the first few days of your puppy being home with you , this can be achieved easily! Leave the crate door open so your puppy can go in and out as they please. Soon enough, your puppy will be willingly going into their crate, and associating it with something that makes them feel great — treats! But, to move on, you can pop your puppy in the crate and close the door. First, open it immediately and treat your puppy for sitting quietly inside. Once your puppy is happy and comfortable doing this, you can progress to shutting and locking the crate door, before opening it and treating your puppy. And, once your puppy is okay with this, you can slowly increase the length of time that the door is closed before opening and treating. Doing so can cause your puppy to be stressed and upset. A stressed puppy is no fun for anyone. If your puppy seems stressed at any point in this process, simply go back a step and reduce the duration. For instance, one time leave then for two seconds, then increase to five seconds, then drop back down to three. You can also put your puppy in their crate through the day before they go to sleep for one of their regular naps. Overall, our aim is to make the crate a wonderful and happy place for your puppy to relax. So, how are you meant to fix things if your puppy starts crying? Instead, move back a step, and increase the duration more slowly, for instance only a second longer. If your puppy is getting visibly distressed, it may be a good idea to give the training a break for a while. Go and play a game with them, or work on some different training to let them calm down, then come back and try again with crate training in a bit. No matter what breed you have, crate training is a lengthy process. At first, the increase of duration before you let your puppy out and treat them will be seconds, not minutes or hours! And, increasing this duration too quickly can lead to a puppy that hates being in their crate. Some may take to crate training much faster than others. For some owners, the process could take a couple of weeks. But, for others, it may take months before they can leave their puppy alone in the crate with no issues. Even if this process takes a little longer for you and your Labradoodle, taking it slowly will be worth it in the long run. Crate Training a Labradoodle Puppy at Night Crate training a Labradoodle puppy at night and through the day is a little different. However, during their first few nights with you, they will be scared and unsure of their surroundings. Being close to you will reduce the chance of your puppy crying through the night. Puppies have very small bladders, and you will need to take them outside multiple times, especially in those first few weeks. Your alternative is to place puppy pads at one end of a large crate. If your puppy cries throughout the night, it could be a sign that they need to go to the toilet. Dog Crates as a Potty Training Tool Throughout the day, a crate can be a great tool for potty training your puppy. Labradoodle puppies, like any other puppies, have very small bladders in their early age. Some may need toilet trips outside as often as every 20 minutes! But, as time goes on, you can start to extend the breaks between these trips by using your crate. Like all other parts of crate training, small steps are key here for building a strong level of trust between you and your puppy, and for successful training. Alternatives to Crates Not everyone likes the idea of putting their Labradoodle puppy in a crate, even though many dogs will feel like they have their own little den. As an alternative to a puppy crate, you could invest in a puppy pen. This will give your puppy room to move around, to play, and more, which a crate does not. Many pens are large enough for you to put a bed inside, a water bowl, and even some puppy pads for potty training purposes. However, despite this extra room, puppies will still need time outside of the pen to interact with you, socialize, exercise through games, and stimulate their brains. Baby gates on doorways are another alternative you might want to consider. This way, you can puppy proof an entire room for your pup to have access to. If you choose either of these two alternatives, you will still need to work hard at training. Particularly at training your puppy to be happy when left alone in their pen or room. This will still be a slow process, like crate training. The Puppy Parenting course is ideal for learning how to crate train, among other important puppy training goals. Crate Training Your Labradoodle Puppy Have you decided that crate training is the right step for you and your Labradoodle puppy? When done properly, crate training can be great, and can offer your puppy a safe and comfortable place of their own to relax. But, make sure you increase duration in the crate very gradually, so that your puppy never feels trapped or distressed when inside. Do you have any other Labradoodle crate training tips? References and Resources Ackerman, L. Where To Put Your Crate Improper crate placement leads to anxiety issues for many dogs and can even cause obedience issues. Start by fitting the crate with the non-slip liner, add a crate mat or comfortable bed, and pop a tasty treat or chew toy inside. Place some treats and a bowl of water outside the crate where you can reach them. Now, you can let the puppy sniff around the crate. Some puppies will accept the crate with ease, going inside right away to get the treats inside. But you can help the process massively by creating a welcoming, comfortable space where your puppy can go to chill out and have fun. Start by putting a handful of tempting treats just inside the crate, put an intriguing toy inside, and talk encouragingly to your puppy. Most dog owners find that having the crate in a room with people will encourage a reluctant puppy to feel happier spending time inside his crate. Also, you must never shut your puppy in the crate for hours without giving him adequate potty breaks. Fun and Games You can make crate training sessions more fun for both of you by using crate games. Crate Feed Your Labradoodle Puppy Labradoodles can be pretty food-focused, and you can use that trait to encourage your puppy to spend time in his crate, considerably speeding up the training process. Have your furry friend watch as you prepare his food. Put the food bowl inside the crate toward the front. The puppy should go into the crate to get his meal. Next time you feed your puppy, put the food bowl further toward the back of the crate so that he has to go in further to get it. Close The Crate Door Once your Labradoodle puppy regards the crate as a safe, comfy space where he wants to be, you can begin closing the crate door while your pet is eating. To begin with, open the door again immediately after your puppy finishes eating. Each mealtime, leave the crate door closed for a little while longer. Back Off! Once your puppy happily stays in his crate, playing with his toys or munching on a treat chew stick, you can move away from the crate. If the puppy begins crying or barking, turn your back on him. Wait for a few minutes until the complaints stop, and your puppy is calm and quiet again. You can turn around and let your pet out of the crate. Observe your puppy. If your pup starts to panic and becomes upset, let him out of the crate and take the training process back a few steps. Increase The Confinement Time Provided your puppy is happy to remain inside the crate with the door closed, you can gradually increase the length of confinement time. Ideally, you want your puppy to remain in the crate for up to an hour before he needs to come out for a toilet break. If your pet begins crying, sniffing the ground, or circling, he needs to relieve himself. Immediately you see any of those signs, pick up your puppy and take him to his designated potty spot. As a rough guideline, puppies up to eight weeks old usually need to urinate every 30 to 60 minutes. When your puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between pee breaks. Sleepless Nights? The best place for your puppy to spend the night is in his crate next to your bed. A crate cover can help create a dark, den-like environment for your puppy, helping him settle down and sleep. Potty Stops Young puppies will wake up every couple of hours during the night for a potty break. When accidents happen, do not punish your puppy or scold him. Clean up accidents outside of the crate by using an enzyme cleaning product that will eliminate the scent of pet pee from your floor coverings. Be sure to clean the crate thoroughly to avoid any lingering toilet smells. Use verbal cues from day one of your crate training process. Longer Confinement Time Your puppy needs to learn that spending time confined in his crate is normal for everyday family life. After a couple of weeks of training, your puppy should be able to remain contained in his crate for one to two hours. We recommend spending time playing with your Labradoodle between crate training sessions. How To Deal With Tantrums Puppies are rather like toddlers in that they will almost certainly throw temper tantrums during the early days of crate training, especially when you first close the crate door. When your puppy throws a temper tantrum, turn around and wait until your feisty furry friend settles down again. Once peace is restored, reward your puppy with treats and verbal praise. Moreover, you might also want to read our guide to crate training other dog breeds. Check these out:. July 23, The gentle nature and excited temperament of Labradoodles are what make them very willing to learn and eager to please their owners. However, any form of training requires patience, dedication, and consistency from their owners. Training a labradoodle works best when they are puppies, as they do not have already bad habits and are more susceptible to learning and wanting to learn. An older labradoodle can still be trained , but with a lot of patience, love, positive reinforcements, desensitization, and conditioning, if necessary. Crate training when properly done will yield many good results. The following tips will help make the training process a lot easier for you. Introducing Your Labradoodle to The Crate Place the crate in a somewhat trafficked area of the house that your labradoodle would love to be. Places like the living room where she can see and hear everyone in the house. Secure the door to prevent it from hitting your dog. Make it a priority when starting out to avoid any chance of scaring them with a bulky door. Put a soft blanket inside the crate and leave the door open to let your dog explore the crate at their own leisure. Put some of the treats at the door and inside the crate, to help your dog realize that the crate is safe Labradoodles are naturally curious and inquisitive dogs who might hop right into the cage. If not, bring them over to the crate and talk to them in an excited voice to ensure a connection with them that is positive. If the door can be removed, remove the door, to begin with. Continuously feed your doodle their meals in the crate to help your dog establish a positive relationship with it. Practice With Short Intervals, Then Expand After your Labradoodle puppy eats comfortably inside their cage, letting them stay inside for short periods of time will help them become more acclimated with it. The Benefits of Crate Training Labradoodles Crate training a labradoodle is an important part of caring for her that may provide some rewarding experience for you and your Labradoodle. A crate is the domesticated form of a den. Like a cave would provide shelter to a wolf, a crate gives a doodle a sense of security and a definitive place of rest when they need solitude. Crate training is great for your labradoodle puppy, especially one that is not fully house trained, as this will prevent your dog from chewing and breaking things in your home. It makes it easier for potty training because most dogs are highly unlikely to poop in the area where they sleep. If done properly with great care and consistency, your dog will come to love their crate. Crate training also sets your Labradoodle up for success in the future, especially if you plan on taking any vacations or go on trips regularly. They will be used to being in a contained space and this causes them to be less anxious. Helps in the occasion from social stress or feeling overwhelmed or scared by new things — as it calms your dog down and makes her feel safe. Can assist in making them less likely to feel separation anxiety What Makes a Labradoodle Easy to Train? Many of their characteristics naturally help owners train their Labradoodles, but it all boils down to enthusiasm and intelligence. Both Labrador retrievers and poodles are known for their intelligence and this will help them make the much-needed connections in distinguishing the importance of their crates, especially at a much younger age. Any form of training, whether it be crate training or teaching your dog how to do awesome tricks, is also a good way to focus their endless supply of energy onto a more mentally stimulating activity. Despite having all the necessary qualities for easy training experience, this does not go to say that Labradoodles should be left to their own devices when it comes to crate training. Even intelligent dogs can become more stubborn around their owners or even other dogs if they are left without careful instruction. Their energy and higher activity levels are a strength, but without proper care, they can also be a weakness. If not harnessed properly, an energetic dog can become more impulsive and chaotic without the owner establishing them set boundaries. A smaller cage can be great for transporting in the car in the event of car trips or appointments to the vet. However other dog owners feel more comfortable leaving their dog in a much larger cage as it gives them more space and can feel less like a restrictive environment. When Labradoodles are young, a smaller crate may be better as it feels more secure. In a new home, a large empty space already can feel overwhelmingly big to a small puppy. Cages should be large enough for them to stand up and turn around comfortably. Owners can choose to purchase cages as their puppy grows or choose a crate size that will accommodate the adult size. A typical Labradoodle grows up to be 22 to 24 inches in height for a Male and inches for a female. Both sexes can be expected to weigh pounds. Leaving your labradoodle for too long may also cause him to develop aggression issues, health problems, and difficulty following your commands. Which would defeat the purpose of your training. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures. It is a way of getting your pet in an emotional and behavioral state that brings up his mood and makes him feel good, safer. Desensitization — provides a means of safely exposing the pet to the stimulus at a level at or below which fear is likely to be exhibited. It is the gradual exposure to a situation or stimuli that would cause your dog to have the undesirable behavior, but with little or no negative response. This step is to help your dog become less reactive to the stimuli. Labradoodle Crate Training Summary Make sure to take the training process very slowly and not try to do too much with your labradoodle too fast. Be patient with your dog. Never raise your voice, avoid yelling or pounding on the crate as it can often make things worse. Dogs love positive reinforcements, Labradoodles are no different and they are just too cute to be mad at. Having a pet is truly a blessing. And for your labradoodle crate training is only the first step in a wondrous experience that will last for years to come. However you must teach your puppy all of your expectations, gently and firmly from day one. Decide the rules you want for your puppy, and teach them those rules right from the beginning, such as: not getting on furniture, not jumping up on people. If you allow that in the beginning, it will be very difficult to break the habit. Getting Prepared for A New Puppy! Puppy Chewing The more things you have for your puppy to chew, the less likely they are to chew up your things. The need to chew will go on for at least 18 months, although they may always love having things to chew and toys. You will also need a premium puppy food of your choice. We use an All Life Stages dog food made primarily of chicken and rice. Dogs originally were den animals, they burrowed holes underground, where they were safe from predators and nice and warm. They instinctively do not go to the bathroom in their dens. A crate is a safe haven for your puppy. Never take your puppy out of the crate until they are quiet, just sit patiently, without speaking, until they are quiet for a few seconds, and you will teach them to be quiet in the cage. Every time you take your puppy out of the crate, take them immediately outside to the place you want them to go to the bathroom. Puppies find places to go to the bathroom with their feet. When I take them out to the yard, to grass, rocks or dirt, which ever you prefer , they get used to that feeling on their feet and it becomes part of their potty que or trigger. If you allow your puppy to have accidents on your rugs or hardwood floors even by accident then that can quickly become their potty texture preference. Same goes for potty pads. Using potty pads only teaches your puppy that going potty on absorbent material is Ok. Not a great idea. Try to avoid accidents at all costs. This way, you will teach your dog to go to the bathroom on command. This can be very convenient if you are traveling or leaving the house. Stay away from the puppy until they are done with their business, keep other animals, children and any other distraction away from them. As soon as your puppy is done, immediately give them a dog treat and praise, and praise and praise. Then, stand back and see if there is more forthcoming and repeat the process. Your Puppy At Night. .If your puppy cries in the middle of the night, get up, sit by the cage until they are quiet for a minute or two, then and only then, take them outside to their spot, give the potty command to go, and stand quietly ignoring them until they are done, do not instigate play or talk in an excited voice. When their bladder gets mature, this nighttime potty break should stop. Read my post about how to stop puppy whining and crying in the crate! Then after that every hour for a couple of days, 2 hours for a few days. When they finish going to the bathroom, praise and treats. Never hit or yell harshly at your puppy, or they will be afraid of you, and will develop fear of you, rather than trust. It may take months before your dog is completely housetrained, be patient, it is all worth it! When you feed your puppy, stroke their back and head, and tell them how good they are. You want them to be used to having someone touch them when they eat. When you sit down to eat, ignore the puppy, or put them in the crate. When you have to leave make sure to crate your puppy or put them in a x-pen setup, when you get home, even after a short absence, calmly take your puppy outside, talk gently to them, let them go to the bathroom, take them back inside and talk to them calmly, pet them slowly and try to be as calm as you can. If you come back and get them excited, they will try to recreate that excited feeling when you are gone, because that means you will be home soon. Puppies are like any baby, they need lots of attention, a dog that does not get attention, will get anxious and nervous and may chew and chew furniture, rugs, shoes, cords, anything to get rid of the anxiety. Read my post on crate and x-pen setups for potty training puppies! Taking your Puppy to Class Take your puppy to obedience school. An untrained puppy can be a nuisance instead of a pleasure. Another important benefit, perhaps the most important, is puppies will meet many new people and dogs in puppy class, which will greatly help socialize them, and make them more people and dog friendly. When I take them out to the yard, to grass, rocks or dirt, which ever you prefer , they get used to that feeling on their feet. When they get to your home, your puppy will be used to the surface that you want them to use. This teaches them that talking to you actually works. Going Potty Outside Step by Step — Take your puppy outside on leash, take them to their designated spot, put them down, and give the potty command, stand back without touching them, and wait a bit for them to go to the bathroom. When you know your puppy is done going to the bathroom, praise them, give them a treat or a snuggle and then take them immediately back into the house, unless you are going to play with them outside. Our Main Menu.