raising a boxer puppy

Tweet Looking for free German Shepherd puppies? If you are looking for a German Shepherd, and your budget is tight, you can find your new best friend nearly free or at a decent price. You just have to know where to look. Most of the dogs they place are one year or more, but they often have puppies as well. This normally includes vaccinations, a heartworm test, and spay or neuter. For about one third of the price of a purebred GSD from a reputable breeder, you can give a deserving dog a second chance. Rescue groups specialize in finding forever homes for lost, abused or unwanted German Shepherds. They have extensive knowledge of every dog they place and can normally match you with the right dog for your unique situation. Do you have a German Shepherd rescue success story to tell? Adopt a German Shepherd It may take some patience and persistence, but you can find a nearly free German Shepherd from a local shelter. If they don't currently have puppies, check back often. Or ask them to call you as soon as they get one. The adoption fee will normally cover an initial vet checkup with puppy shots and a spay or neuter. This is cheaper than the cost of a purebred German Shepherd from a rescue group. One quarter of all shelter dogs are purebreeds. Why adopt a dog? You may be their last hope. Many shelters only hold dogs for a week. If they are relinquished by their owner, they are on the short list for euthanasia, as they are not considered lost and no one will be coming to look for them. My Begian Malinois , Ryder, was 48 hours away from being put down after his owner signed him over. Search for a local animal shelter. Don't make price your primary consideration. Backyard breeders and puppy mills price low to sell quickly. Avoid these unscrupulous breeders. Even if an ad reads AKC registered dogs , this is not necessarily a sign of a quality dog. Be aware that Puppy Mills also use this as a lure for unsuspecting buyers. Exercise patience. You don't have to break the bank. Your new best friend is worth the wait. Jennifer here. I've been a fan of the German Shepherd breed for as long as I can remember. Always check references and vet checks before purchase. If she was in that bad a shape you should report them for fear of abuse of any other animals they may have. She does have Aussie markings, but unclear by picture if this is a true breed 6. A vet can assist. Definitely aussie by: Anonymous She's definitely Australian Shepard. I lived with a breeder for years. There are 4 main colors and she is a black tri. There are also red tricolor and red merle as well as blue merle. If you got her from the Finch's on Whidby Island their dogs often look like this. So sad your poor girl was in bad condition. Cutie by: Anonymous She is so cute, I can see the Aussie on her. Mine was shy at the beginning too but now she is energetic and she loves to please me learning tricks, just give her some time. Puppy, is she or isn't she? Socialize her, spend time with her building her confidence Aussies are amazing dogs. She'll get her coat between 1 and 2 years. As for the tail, most are docked, you have to know the breeder and not have them dock the tail. Aussie by: Rich I have 2 and they look so different and they are sisters same mom same dad but a year apart your is like a friends which is a purebred the belly and skinny is in diet and exercise and dandruff etc and problems with socializing it all sounds to me like a last pick of a puppy mill dog who needs love and in due time will hopefully be a spirited Aussie. Maybe by: Anonymous If she is closer to 5 months she may be blowing her puppy coat. Bloated tummy points to parasites which could explain the skin and coat. Some Aussies, I have seen are born with tails and some without so that would be a wash. My experience has been most don't get that super fluffy coat until about a year or later. Also, not all pampered dogs are purebred. Unscrupulous breeders can and do lie on applications. Looks more like a German Shepherd mix. All that said, if she is a sweet pup, maybe you were just meant to have her and you will enjoy a wonderful life together. Looks to be an Aussie by: Anonymous She certainly looks to be an Aussie. If you truly want to find out there are doggie DNA kits you can buy online to find out. Otherwise, take her to the vet to get a check-up to make sure she is healthy. It will take time and training for her to trust and bond with you and the family. What you paid is quite cheap for a purebred! And their coat does not grow out big and fluffy until they are about a year old. Still, you have two choices - give her back if you are truly unhappy, or work with her to train her and give her confidence and watch her blossom! Deworming Spaying or neutering If you were to add up the cost of all of these services separately, and not part of an all-inclusive adoption fee, the price tag would invariably be considerably higher. Additionally, you can also feel good about adopting a GSD puppy from a shelter, as the proceeds acquired through adoption fees are used to help support the shelter from which you adopted the puppy. This allows a shelter to continue to rescue new animals and relocate them in safe homes. One potential downside to adoption is the time and effort that it may take you to find the right pup for you. Unlike a breeder who is able to provide you with rather specific dates, there is no telling when a new GSD puppy may be available through a shelter. Additionally, purebred GSD puppies tend to be adopted out very quickly, so if you choose this option you must be very diligent and persistent. Be prepared to make lots of phone calls on a daily basis, as it is unlikely that a shelter will call you specifically when the puppy you want arrives, as many others will undoubtedly have the same request. This is because purebred dogs that are ethically raised by responsible breeders are expensive to breed in general. Also, in contrast to a purebred shelter puppy that spends a short portion of its life at the shelter prior to adoption, a breeder must pay all of the costs associated with raising an entire litter for a minimum of 8 weeks, as is mandated by law in many states. Next comes the cost of pre-breeding health checks performed on both parents, prenatal care, stud fees, shots, food, wormings, vet visits, and a host of other unexpected medical costs. You must also figure in the time and effort that it takes to socialize an entire litter, coupled with the fact that many breeders are dealing with more than one litter at a time, and it is easy to see how the costs can quickly add up. Essentially, a purebred German Shepherd puppy from a breeder will cost more because they are more expensive to raise. However, a purebred puppy from a reputable breeder will also come with health and temperament guarantees, so you do actually get what you pay for. For more detailed understanding of adopting a German Shepherd puppy from a shelter versus purchasing one from a breeder, we have an excellent article here that will answer all of your questions and remove all of the guesswork for you. The Cost of the First Year of German Shepherd Puppy Ownership While the amount of money that you spend to acquire a German Shepherd puppy will vary in accordance to the different factors that we have described above, keep in mind that acquiring the puppy is just be beginning of your financial commitment. It is important that you pay attention to these costs, as they can be significant, and may have a bearing on whether or not acquiring a GSD puppy is a good economical choice for you. While there are other related costs, the main costs that you will incur during the first year of GSD puppy ownership can be apportioned as follows: Initial Cost of Your Puppy As described above, this is entirely dependent on whether you adopt from a shelter or purchase from a breeder. This cost varies widely and can exceed several thousand dollars on the high end. Dog Food With so many different dog food brands on the market today, this cost can also vary considerably. From basic dry dog food to available gourmet raw diets, you can spend as little or as much as you choose. Grooming While you can groom your GSD puppy yourself, many people opt to take their puppy to a professional groomer. Necessities such as nail trimming can be intimidating to the first-time puppy owner and may harm the puppy if performed incorrectly. Training While it is our preference that you take the time to properly train your GSD puppy on your own, as this is a unique and irreplaceable bonding experience on many levels for you and your GSD puppy, many people opt to seek professional obedience training. Some people simply do not have the time to do this, or perhaps it is their first dog and they are unsure of where to begin. If this is the case for you, then you should plan on this expense during your first year of GSD puppy ownership. It is, however, important to understand that individually these items do not cost very much, but if you love to spoil your puppy, then costs can add up very quickly! Crate and Divider A crate is another essential item that there is just no getting around purchasing if you want your puppy to be well-trained. Be sure to not make the mistake that many people do by purchasing too small of a crate and then having to upsize as their puppy grows. It is wise to purchase a large crate as well as a crate divider. This way, you are able to place the divider so that the volume of the crate can be increased as your puppy grows in size. Veterinary Care A preliminary veterinary health check and vaccinations are essential. If you adopt from a shelter, these are likely included in the adoption fee. However, if you purchase your puppy from a breeder, you may incur these costs after bringing your puppy home. Keep in mind that you can, and should, also plan on unexpected veterinary bills. What happens when your puppy gets into something that he definitely should not have, and even worse, after veterinary office hours? It is wise to prepare and set aside some extra funds for such emergencies. Heartworms can be deadly, so heartworm preventative medication is a must. Ticks can also transmit disease that may cause severe illness, such as Canine Anaplasmosis , and fleas are wildly uncomfortable for both human and puppies alike. Table: First Year of German Shepherd Puppy Ownership Costs Now that we have gone over the basic essential expenses of GSD puppy ownership during the first year, we can get more specific as to the expenses that you may incur, depending on your own personal preferences. The table below provides a reasonable estimate of all costs associated with the first year of German Shepherd puppy ownership. Keep in mind that, while this is a reasonable estimate, it is still an estimate. There are certain services and items within the table below that are elective, such as boarding the puppy while on vacation or obedience classes. However, as discussed above, there are certain mandatory, nonnegotiable expenses such as food and veterinary care that you must take into consideration. All dogs are up to date on shots, microchipped, and spayed or neutered. Please note: We will not adopt a dog to a home with another dog that is not neutered or spayed. Remember to call your veterinarian to release your information to avoid a delay in the processing of your application. Our dogs are primarily adopted to homes within a mile radius of Rochester, NY. An adoption fee is required when you receive your German Shepherd Dog, and a legally binding adoption agreement is required when the dog is placed. The adoption fee may vary per dog and can be found in their listing. All potential homes must complete our adoption process as outlined and must agree to abide by the terms of the adoption agreement. All dogs are temperament tested by BrightStar before they are accepted as a foster dog. We will not knowingly accept or place dogs that we deem aggressive. We do not accept dogs with a documented bite history. If you rent, a copy of your lease and a letter from landlord giving permission to keep a German Shepherd Dog will be required, and the primary adopter must be at least 21 years old or have parental consent. We are solely committed to our foster dogs. Yes, we want to find them loving, permanent homes, but we reserve the right to decline an adoption based on the best interest of the dog. Upon adoption, copies of all available records, including AKC registration or eligibility for registration, will be provided to the family. All animals are spayed or neutered before adoption or must be spayed or neutered 60 days after placement. Dogs are current on vaccinations, tested for heartworm, and on a heartworm preventative medication. As outlined in our adoption process, all family members are required to meet the German Shepherd to be adopted. A home visit by a BrightStar volunteer is mandated. We generally do not ship or deliver dogs. Upon adoption, we discuss what degree of training you should take or complete with your dog. We can help you locate training classes in the vicinity. In addition, BrightStar provides life long support for all our dogs. We do our best to accurately assess each of our dogs. However, BrightStar carries no warranty of any kind, express or implied. BrightStar prefers not to adopt to families with invisible fencing. Potential adopters that have invisible fencing will be considered on a case by case basis. If you agree with and fit our adoption policies and are interested in adopting, please complete an adoption application. A link is at the top of this page. Please bear in mind that BrightStar is an all-volunteer organization with dogs, families, and commitments of their own. The wait is well worth it for your next forever friend! But that does not mean that it is the right breed for everyone. Please make sure you really want to add a German Shepherd Dog to your family. Look into you heart and your life ahead of you. German Shepherds tend to bond strongly to a family and many rescue dogs need time to transition and heal emotionally. Please make sure you have the time and patience to make this long-term commitment. If you are not sure, please wait until your circumstances change. If you are sure, please continue with the next step of finding your next best friend. Next Step — Fill out an application Applications can be filled out online or downloaded and mailed. All applications are dated when they are received just in case there are two homes that both express interest in the same dog. You can fill out an application online here. If the home has or had a dog your vet is always contacted. Please call your vet for to release your records as soon as possible. During this time, we contact clients for additional information, if needed. Fourth Step- Home Visit The home visit is to find out more about the family search requirements. All members of the family must be present. We want to make sure that the dog fits into your family, into your lifestyle. During our visit, we are not looking at the size of your house or yard, the most important thing to us is the size of your heart. Even if the home visit is with an available dog, we do not leave the dog on the first visit. We do not want anybody to feel pressured to make a quick decision. We want to make absolutely sure that this is a good match. Often the family is a very good one and the dog is great, but the chemistry is just not there. Fifth Step- Adoption Agreement If everything goes well, BrightStar has the applicant sign an Adoption Agreement which contains terms that a client will abide by for adoption. It also contains any medical care the dog requires. This is a legal document, so please read the terms carefully and make sure you are comfortable abiding by them. We offer lifelong support for our new family members. You may contact us at any time. Share this:.

Finding a healthy black Labradoodle puppy. A lot comes into play when breeders attempt to create a specifically black Labradoodle. That is because both the purebred Labrador retriever and the purebred poodle come in three different color varieties. Genetics are difficult to control, and sometimes it takes a few generations for breeders to get the desired color of a Labradoodle right. Especially when working with a first generation F1 black Labradoodle. Where Do They Come From? The Labradoodle craze is believed to have begun in Australia. Enthusiastic breeders went on a mission to create an intelligent, friendly and responsive service dog that had all the desirable traits of the Poodle and the Lab. Still, because the Labradoodle is a newer generation crossbreed, there is a lot of speculation regarding the majority of his roots. The Labrador is an ancient breed who hails from Newfoundland, Canada. The Standard Poodle is of German descent and is believed to be over years old. Both breeds were used as waterdogs for fishing and duck hunting, and were renowned for their intelligence and retrieving abilities. Defining Characteristics of the Black Labradoodle Just about the only thing you can guarantee about what your black Labradoodle will look like will be his color. This is because he is a crossbreed. For that reason, his coat texture, size, weight and more will be left up to chance. Despite having similar temperamental traits, the poodle and the Labrador are very different looking dogs. Both the Labrador and the poodle come in three color varieties. The Lab, for example, comes in chocolate, black and yellow, while the poodle comes in black, brown and apricot. Both breeds are athletically built water dogs, however. So a prospective black Labradoodle owner can expect this crossbreed to be similarly built, with a long tail, floppy ears, and a sweet, expressive face. How Big Is a Black Labradoodle? An adult Labradoodle size is going to depend on several factors. Because he is a crossbreed, your Labradoodle full grown will vary in size. This will be based not only on which genetic traits he inherits from his purebred parents, but also how big each parent breed is. On average, the black Standard Labradoodle is around 15 to .Black Labradoodle Grooming and General Care While the Poodle is considered to be a hypoallergenic dog who hardly sheds and produces very little allergy-inducing dander in his coat, the Labrador sheds heavier twice a year during shedding season. For this reason, grooming maintenance could vary when it comes to your black Labradoodle mix. They might also shed. On the other hand, if the black Labradoodle has a coat more like his Poodle parent, his fur could be prone to matting and will need brushing a bit more frequently. However, your black Labradoodle will need an occasional bath every few weeks. He will also need his nails trimmed regularly to keep them from breaking and his ears cleaned to keep them from developing infection due to waxy build up. But these are claims based mostly on biased and superstitions, with little to no evidence supporting them. Truth be told, a black Labradoodle is still just a Labradoodle. And he will carry whichever temperamental traits he inherits from his purebred parents. As previously mentioned, the Labrador and the poodle have very similar temperamental traits. They are both family-oriented breeds who do well with children and are incredibly intelligent. However, they are also both highly energetic and athletic. For this reason, a black Labradoodle will more likely than not require a lot of time and patience when it comes to training and exercise. The black Labradoodle is the crossbreed offspring of two very intelligent and active breeds. He could therefore be prone to boredom and becoming destructive if left to his own devices without doggy jobs or activates. For this reason, we recommend early socialization and obedience training beginning in puppyhood. This will help to ensure the black Labradoodle is a well-adjusted and happy dog. Can You Show a Black Labradoodle? The black Labradoodle makes an excellent family pet and service animal when properly trained and socialized. However, he is a newer generation crossbreed and is still not officially recognized by official clubs and organizations, like the American Kennel Club. For those interested in show dogs, purebreds are the best and safest bet. Still, there are purebred standards that dogs used for show require. This means their black Labradoodle offspring is likely going to be similar. A dog with smarts and energy will require a lot of exercise. Anyone considering getting a black Labradoodle crossbreed should prepare to spend an adequate amount of time every day providing this dog with what he needs to be happy and healthy. But what kind of exercise do they require? Daily walks, jogs, hikes and swimming can all serve as excellent exercise outlets. Your black Labradoodle will also enjoy games of fetch, chase, and Frisbee in a large, fenced-in backyard. Keep in mind that the Labradoodle is the crossbreed offspring of two dogs who were bred for hunting. Make sure that you spend plenty of time working on your recall. Now, what about training? The Labrador and the Poodle are both very smart breeds, but with intelligence comes independent thinking. For the most part, the Lab and the Poodle are eager to please and make loyal, hard-working students. So long as the training sessions are kept fun, positive and rewarding for them. This means that your Labradoodle should be simple to train. Health and Lifespan A Labrador Poodle mix is likely to live into their teens. Provided the dog is well treated and that both parents have been fully health tested. February 10, Table of Contents The Labradoodle is next to the Goldendoodle the most well-known type of Doodle dog. A cross of Labrador Retriever and Poodle, he is a large, goofy and always happy dog. While this Doodle mix can come in a variety of colors, the most popular one by far is black. Today we want to look at black Labradoodles in particular. How much can you expect to pay for a black Labradoodle? Are they hypoallergenic? Do they turn grey with age? Origin The black Labradoodle comes — like Labradoodles of all colors — from a pairing of Labrador and Poodle. The Poodle parent is typically a Standard Poodle. Labradors themselves come in three distinct colors: Black, yellow and chocolate. Poodles have a larger color variety: They can be black, apricot, brown, grey, silver, white … and also have irregular patterns, such as in the Phantom Poodle or Parti Poodle. Color genetics can be complicated. The best way to guaranteed get black Labradoodle puppies is to cross a black Labrador and a black Poodle. In such a litter, most of the puppies should be black. Are Black Labradoodles hypoallergenic? If you have spent any time researching Doodle breeds yet, you know that this is not an easily answered question. On the one hand, there is no such thing as a guaranteed hypoallergenic dog. On the other hand, chances are that your Labradoodle will be a lot more hypoallergenic than most other dogs out there. Whether your Labradoodle is black or a different color does not play a big role when it comes to their coat qualities — a black Labradoodle will be as hypoallergenic as a yellow Labradoodle. Training Labradoodles require consistent and positive training in order to turn into well-behaved companions, regardless of their color! As very energetic and outgoing dogs, it is crucial to teach them to be calm and focused in public and have good leash manners. Since these dogs become invisible at night due to their color, it is advisable to walk them on an LED collar in the dark. Coming when called is a very important skill to add to the list, as well as politely sitting and greeting visitors. You should not delay getting started in training your Labradoodle — the early you begin, the faster your dog will learn. Labradoodles are typically very food-driven. Use high-quality treats and food for your Labradoodle , and he will happily learn any trick you want to teach him! Do Black Labradoodles shed? As a Doodle breed, Labradoodles will not shed — or only shed minimally. If you are not a fan of dog hair around the house, a black Labradoodle certainly fits the bill. This is not true! You can either buy some clippers and groom your dog at home or take him to a local groomer. It goes without saying that this will be tied to daily brushing and monthly baths with a good shampoo. Do not let it mat or your dog will suffer from painful skin sores! Here you can find our recommendations for the best brushes for Labradoodles. Do Black Labradoodles turn gray? You might have gotten a black Labradoodle puppy, but within the first year he seems to become more and more grey. This dilute gene can be passed on without being expressed. Dilute puppies often look black when first born and start to lighten during the first year of their life. This might appear as if your black Labradoodle is turning grey — but in fact, he was just a grey Labradoodle all along who looked to be darker as a young puppy. If you have a true genetically black Labradoodle, he might start to get grey and white hair around his muzzle in his older years. Do they get hot in the sun? If you live in a hot climate you should consider keeping your dog in a short coat. Both the Labrador and the Poodle are waterdogs — meaning that your Labradoodle will probably gladly cool off in any kind of pool, puddle, pond or stream he can find. By wetting him down frequently you can prevent him from overheating in the sun. Remember that dogs cannot sweat and panting can only regulate their body temperature so much. Providing shade and cool water is crucial for keeping your black Labradoodle happy and healthy in the sun. How much is a black Labradoodle? Black Labradoodles will cost around the same as brown or cream Labradoodles. Yes — they are not cheap. However, it is really important that you do not price-shop when looking for a puppy! It is impossible to breed and raise healthy, well-mannered puppies with a good temperament for low prices. Labradoodles are prone to inheritable conditions such as hip dysplasia, and you need to make absolutely sure that your breeder tested both parents for potential issues. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.

Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Want to learn how to crate train your golden retriever puppy fast? Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. It helps accelerate potty training, it keeps them safe, and it helps keep them from learning bad habits like chewing up shoes. Read this article to learn more about potty training your golden retriever puppy. When I was a kid I hated vegetables. I just wanted fries and chicken nuggets. But what did my parents do? They made me eat veggies a little at a time until I got used to them. And then after I got used to them, I learned to love them. Now as an adult, I would much rather prefer a pile of grilled zucchini, broccoli, and asparagus than a plateful of fries. Crate training your golden retriever follows a similar pattern. But the following steps are going to teach you how to teach them to love their crate and handle being alone. The wire crate helped because it was open so he could always see the people around him, which lessened his anxiety of being in there alone at first. Step 2: Get The Crate Ready This is another step that you will have ideally done before you bring your puppy home. The first thing to consider when getting the crate ready for your pup is where to put it. Here are a few options: In your bedroom In the living room or other area where people in your home hang out Get two crates and have one in your bedroom and one in the living room Golden retrievers love being around people, so having their crate around people will usually help ease some of the pain of crate training. This will usually help with the loneliness and crying. The other thing to consider when getting the crate ready is what to put in it. You also may want to put a bed in there to make it comfortable for them. So how do you do that? First, they need to decide to go into the crate themselves. You can do that by putting a favorite toy in the crate, or scattering food in there. Expect them to walk in and right back out the first time. You want to make it so that they know fun things are in the crate. Check out the video below for a fun crate training game to help your puppy learn to love their crate. Walk out of the room for a second, then come back in. Then walk out for five seconds, then ten seconds. These next few sections will answer some common questions that new puppy owners have, as well as some tips to help the process go smoothly. Putting your puppy in the crate with a full bladder is one way you can set them up to fail. Also, frozen kongs or chew toys with peanut butter work great for easing your puppy into getting comfortable in their crate by themselves. That means that a two-month-old puppy can only hold it for about two to three hours, so expect to have to wake up two or three times every night until they get a little older. Take the water bowl away about two or three hours before bedtime so that your puppy will have time to fully empty their bladder before going to sleep for the night. Get them sufficiently tired during the day. Play games like tug, fetch or chase to physically wear them out, and train them and give them puzzle toys like frozen kongs to mentally wear them out. Set an alarm to wake yourself up before they wake up themselves. This is a tough situation, but it can be done. Here are some tips to make it work. You may have to come home on your lunch break, ask friends, family, or neighbors to come over, or hire a dog walker to let your puppy out. Wear them out in the mornings Go on walks, play chase, fetch and tug, or wrestle with them in the mornings to get some of their endless energy out. Utilize an exercise pen You might want to consider getting an exercise pen like this one from Amazon and circling it around the front of the crate to give your dog some extra room. Check out the video below for an example of what a crate looks like with an exercise pen attached for extra space. Does she need to pee? Is she full of energy? Or does she just want to get out and get some attention? Remember to set them up for success before you put them in crate, meaning physically and mentally tiring them out and making sure their bladder is empty. You can also leave for short periods of time starting at seconds , then come back and let her out. How long it takes for your puppy to get used to the crate depends. Did you rush them into it, or did you let them learn that the crate is awesome? Have you been rewarding them for barking in it, or have they learned that silence is what gets them out of the crate? It also depends on the dog. Some dogs take to crates much better than others. You can do it! Is Crate Training Ever Over? We started leaving him alone in the house somewhere around six months old, and then a few months after that we started letting him sleep outside of his crate he decided to sleep under the toilet… weird dude. Two big questions to ask yourself when considering taking this next step are: When was the last time my puppy had an accident in the house? When was the last time my puppy chewed something up in the house? Just like with crate training, you want to take baby steps and set them up for success. Crate Training Mistakes While all of the tips above will help make crate training go smoothly, the mistakes below can ruin your efforts, or at least make it very hard to get them to relax in their crate. Mistake 2: Rushing crate training Crate training takes time. Would you want to go in an unfamiliar box in an unfamiliar house? They need to learn that the crate is fun, safe, and relaxing, and that takes time. This leads us to the next mistake… Mistake 4: Punishing them for crying in the crate If a puppy is crying in the crate because they want attention, they might perceive you yelling at them as attention. Mistake 6: Using the crate too much Golden retrievers are lovers. Conclusion Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. Have any questions about crate training? Or have any other tips for new puppy owners? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety. Dublin during one of his first puppy crate training sessions. When it comes to crate training puppies every puppy is different. Stetson was an extreme case and after those four weeks of pure torture, much to my joy he went totally silent and would sleep in the crate all morning without a peep. Dublin was on the other end of the spectrum and only had a couple of nights whimpering before he began sleeping through the night. Our wire crate is collapsible making it easier to store and travel with. The wire-style crate circulates air better and gives us an option of either leaving it open or covering it with a blanket to make it more like a den. As a guide dog puppy raiser, we are given exact steps on how to crate train our puppies. When properly used, the crate becomes a security blanket, a place where the puppy can retreat to escape the household confusion and to feel secure. Never use the crate as a form of punishment! Zoom Zoom! Crate Training your Golden Retriever puppy. The dog crate should offer a positive, secure environment, and a calming zone. The crate can be effective for in-house training. Confined to a crate, an unattended puppy cannot destroy or soil anything. Do not crate the puppy during the day for more than 3 hours. Start crate training your puppy on his first night. Place the crate in your bedroom where the puppy can still see and hear what is going on. Put a blanket or towel in the crate for bedding. It worked great with our most recent golden retriever puppy, Charlie. A pup will rarely soil the crate, however, if he does, try removing the bedding. A crate should not be too big, but large enough for the puppy to stand stretch, and turn around. If he should happen to fall asleep somewhere else, pick him up and place him inside, and quietly shut the door. Do not hesitate to periodically use the crate, even while you are home. You may feed the puppy in his crate and give him some favorite toys, to keep the experience positive. We feed all of our pups Wellness Core Puppy Food. Working on crate training — Puppy Paws! When it comes time to put your pup in his crate leave the toy or blanket in the crate with the scent of his litter mates this may help your pup sleep better at night. This worked well with Dublin. As soon as he finishes up his business take him straight back to his crate without any playtime or other distractions. Feed Your Puppy Early Make sure you feed him at least an hour and a half before bedtime. Play With Your Puppy Before Bedtime Play with your puppy for an extended period of time just before bedtime to tire him out. A good game of fetch always works well with our pups. Put Your Crate Next To Your Bed Put your crate near the bed we swapped out our nightstands for crates where your puppy can see you and if he starts crying hang your arm down so he can smell your scent. This worked with my rescue puppy, Linus. I slept on the floor next to the crate in my sleeping bag and Linus stopped barking. This will make your puppy more comfortable when he enters the crate. Be careful. Super durable toys like the Nylabone DuraChew have worked well for us in the past. Try doing this with the door open and closed. Lie Next To The Crate With The Door Open Try leaving the door open but lying down across the doorway of the crate as if to nap with him, to make him feel more comfortable in the crate, and at the same time make your body block the doorway. You might try that instead of purchasing a Calmeroos Puppy. It may help soothe your puppy to sleep and save you a few bucks. Just make sure you monitor your pup if you give him a chew he can consume like a Bully Stick. There are many different toys that are designed to help your puppy get used to the crate. Why not try filling a water bottle up with warm water and putting it inside a thick comfy sock extra points if you rub the sock on littermates and mama to get their scent. Hey…you do what you can with the things you have around the house. He is 8 wks and boy has he reminded us how much older we are now. It never occurred to us to use soothing music to help our pups get used to their crate and new environment. Thank you K. Most will calm down after that time. As soon as our puppy is calm we give him praise. However, as I said it depends on your puppy. In this case, we try to take a slower approach to introducing our puppy to the crate. He has to go potty. Most puppies will calm down and stop barking within this time frame. Wait until he stops for at least a split second before you open the door. No Bueno. A Calmeroos Puppy Heartbeat Toy and a blanket. If we have a destructive puppy then we may not want to have anything in the crate. If our puppy is having potty accidents in the crate then we take out the blanket. In our experience, most puppies stop barking in the crate at night after the first days. However, there have been outliers. Our first guide dog puppy, Stetson took four weeks before he stopped barking in the crate at night. On the flip side, our English Cream Golden Retriever pup, Charlie never barked in his crate at night. Puppies will often adjust to their crates based on past experiences. A responsible breeder may have already started crate training puppies before going to their homes. A puppy rescued from a shelter may not have known anything other than the kennel run he grew up in. It depends, every puppy is different. Conclusion Those are my best tips and trick for getting your puppy to stop barking in the crate along with answers to some of the most common questions we get about puppies barking in their crates. How about you guys? Do you have any tips or tricks on how to stop a puppy from barking in his crate? Is this one of your first nights home with your new puppy? Also, we recently put together our New Puppy Checklist detailing all the products we recommend for new puppy owners. It has been updated with new information based on our experiences over the years. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.

We have answers. What are French Bulldog puppies for sale near Kent like? A French Bulldog, commonly known as a Frenchie, is a small, muscular canine breed with bouncy personality that originated in 19th century France. They have distinctive bat-like ears, a short, wide muzzle, and muscular legs. They come in a variety of color patterns including fawn, brindle, and piebald. French Bulldogs typically weigh between 16 and 28lbs and generally reach a height of 11 to 12 inches. Frenchies are loyal, loving and affectionate companions that thrive on human interaction. Will French Bulldog puppies for sale in Kent cause me to have allergies? French Bulldogs can potentially cause allergies in some people, due to the breed's heavy shedding coat. If you are prone to allergies, it is best to visit a vet to discuss your situation and the suitability of a French Bulldog as a pet. Additionally, all bulldogs may cause some degree of respiratory issues, due to their short muzzles which make it difficult for them to breathe properly in certain atmospheric conditions, making it important to take into consideration. What should I not feed Kent French Bulldog puppies for sale? French Bulldogs should not be fed any type of food not intended for their species. Foods like onions, garlic, grapes, raisins, and other fruits can be toxic and cause them great harm. Additionally, they are at risk of pancreatitis when fed excessive amounts of fat or high-calorie rich diets, so avoid food items high in fat or which lack nutritional value. Generally, they require a well-balanced diet that is formulated specifically for their breed. Do not forget their regular feedings times and stick to a healthy and nutritious diet designed for French Bulldogs. Do French Bulldog puppies in Kent have any kind of special requirements? Yes, French Bulldogs can require special requirements. Some of these requirements include regular veterinary care, regular brushing, and a well-balanced diet. It is also important that they get plenty of exercise, usually in the form of walks, playtime, and games. Additionally, they require regular nail trims. Furthermore, French Bulldogs may also need to be monitored for heat and humidity levels, as they are susceptible to breathing difficulties. Consideration should also be given to their living situation, as these breeds are not made for outdoor living. Are French Bulldogs for sale in Kent considered big dogs? French Bulldogs are a small breed of dog, making them much smaller than the average size of a large dog. In general, these dogs will weigh between 11 and 28 lbs when fully grown and will usually stand between inches tall. French Bulldogs are known for their chunky build, short legs, and large ears, resulting in an overall smaller size than regular breeds. Although French Bulldogs are smaller in size than most dog breeds, they can still provide a great amount of companionship and eagerness when it comes to learning new things. Do French Bulldog puppies near Kent like to swim? French Bulldogs typically enjoy a little light swimming from time to time. This breed of dog is generally low-maintenance in terms of grooming and exercise, so getting them in the water can be a fun, low-stress activity. French Bulldogs are usually comfortable in the water and like to paddle around, but they don't particularly enjoy swimming long distances. That's why it's important to keep an eye on them at all times, and preferably have a life vest on your dog just in case things get dicey. Are French Bulldogs in Kent good family dogs? French Bulldogs can be good family dogs as they are generally friendly, adaptable, and loving. They have a penchant for wanting to please their owners, which makes them particularly well-suited for people with families. They're typically quiet, calm, and low-maintenance, which is ideal for kids of all ages. French Bulldogs also interact well with other family pets, making them a great breed to bring into any home. How many minutes per day do I need to train Kent French Bulldogs for sale? The amount of time per day necessary for training French Bulldogs will depend on the individual dog and how quickly they progress. Generally, French Bulldogs should receive at least 15 minutes of training every day in order to keep learning and progressing. However, it is not recommended to do more than 30 minutes per day of training as this can be too strenuous for a French Bulldog. The amount of time for the training session can be divided up throughout the day, with shorter intervals more beneficial than a single long session. We respect your privacy. Thank you! As a reputable and compassionate French Bulldog breeder, we pride ourselves on the health testing, beauty, and personality of our Sires and Dams. Thoroughly vetted breeding stock, along with over a decade of experience, research, education, and a dedication to bettering the breed, sets our puppies up for success with their new families. We incorporate the principles taught by Dr. Gale Watkins through the AviDog University, cultivating our puppies' confidence through proper socialization. Meaning, that our puppies grow up in my, and my children's arms. They are provided with age-appropriate enrichment which ultimately gives you the most balanced and well-behaved adult French Bulldog. We dedicate our lives to cultivating a well-behaved and loving member of the family that will provide you with comfort, humor, and companionship for many years- and this is priceless. NW Frenchies offers stud services to approved females. Our Sires offer the finest combination of bloodlines and are fully health tested. He has completed and is cleared for hip and elbow x-rays, thyroid blood panel, patella grade, heart auscultation by a veterinary cardiology specialist, and eye exam by a veterinary optometry specialist in accordance with the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals guidelines health testing. He is the ideal representation of every quality a French Bulldog should have. Misha has fathered many healthy litters. Eager to bring a French bulldog puppy home?

Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. Go to the park, to as many dog-friendly stores as possible, take your dog on errands with you, go on car rides together, etc. Take your German Shepherd puppy with you wherever and whenever you can. And when I say take the GSD puppy with you, I mean take it in with you - do not leave it in the car while you're in the store. German Shepherd socialization will occur whenever your puppy is introduced to new situations, new people and animals, and new places. They need to actively participate in socialization for it to really work - that means you must let them safely interact with new people, places and things. This is definitely a great step in building the German Shepherd puppies confidence and building a much more stable temperament - making it more capable of coping with new and unusual experiences. German Shepherds are highly intelligent and these early GSD socialization lessons, being around new and different stimuli, will make your adult German Shepherd much more stable and confident - and this is exactly what you want. Your new German Shepherd puppy has spent the first few weeks of it's life with his mother, litter mates and breeders family. Additionally your new GSD puppy may have gone on rides to many new places such as the veterinarian, short shopping errands, and on short training rides - these are all GSD socialization experiences. It has probably heard many different kinds of noises: people, horns of cars, birds chirping, children, sounds of traffic, etc. If your German Shepherd puppy was raised in a farm type locale the puppy has probably seen, heard and smelled many different types of animals, larger farm equipment, etc. One of your new jobs as the German Shepherd puppy's new owner is to add to all of those past experiences with many other new ones. Ask the breeder what kind of socialization has been done with your puppy and take it from there. The more new and exciting experiences that your make your German Shepherd a part of, the better. I can't stress enough how important it is that you continue to socialize your GSD puppy during the first several months of its life and from then on. Discovery of new experiences and teaching the puppy to deal with them positively and confidently is highly important to its development. Many studies have been done that show the critical socialization period for a puppy is from eight to sixteen weeks of life. During this period it is essential that the German Shepherd puppy safely and positively experience as many new things as possible. Some of these experiences will be a little stressful, but you must support your puppy during these times and encourage them throughout the entire critical GSD socialization process. Out of nowhere a small piece of trash paper blew by both of us, quietly startling her. She watched the trash as it continued to blow up against the curb, changed direction and blew closer toward us. Curious, she wanted to check out the new object that was moving around on the curb in front of us and now moving toward us but unsure as how exactly to react to the new object. It was obvious to me that she was curious enough to want to check it out, but also fearful enough that she wanted to run away from it. I waited to see what she would do. She watched the object as it moved around, sometimes backing up slightly, sometimes moving toward it. I allowed her the time to observe the paper and waited to see exactly what she was going to do about it. It seemed longer, but I'm sure that it was only a few minutes until she decided to slowly approach that piece of trash paper. What a brave girl. Eventually she pounced on the paper and give it a good shake and chewing before I finally took it away from her! I praised her profusely. Not for tearing up the paper but more importantly for approaching it after her initial fear response. She met her fear of this new and strange object face to face and overcame it. In future experiences with new and strange objects she would now be more confident. Over time and with more and more positive experiences like this one, Cera grew up to be a very emotionally strong, good-tempered and confident GSD. As the owner you play a major role in providing this confidence for your new German Shepherd puppy. It is extremely important to socialize your German Shepherd starting at as young an age as possible to make them more comfortable with other people and dogs and able to feel comfortable and confident in strange environments. It can really come in handy when meeting new people or maybe even meeting your new baby. Puppy obedience classes, also referred to as Puppy Kindergarten , are an incredible means to introduce your puppy to the world outside of your home. This is both a prime GSD socialization experience as well as a wonderful training and bonding opportunity. Puppy obedience training classes are set up in such a way as to teach the German Shepherd puppy the actual commands, but also to teach you, the owner, how to train the puppy very specific behaviors and manners, now and in the future. Your dog will quickly discover the link between your commands and the desired behavior. It is entirely possible that you can train a GSD puppy at home as well but compared to all the great GSD socialization lessons your German Shepherd puppy can gain from the puppy classes, there really is no comparison. In fact, I highly recommend them. Return from GSD Socialization to German Shepherd Puppy I hope if dogs ever take over the world, and they chose a king, they don't just go by size, because I bet there are some Chihuahuas with some good ideas. Check Price on Amazon 3. Take Him Outdoors Your young German Shepherd puppy needs to experience his whole new world, see many different sights, hear a range of sounds, and experience stimulating smells. Taking your German Shepherd puppy to a market that welcomes dogs will help socialize him in a low-engagement capacity. This is a stepping stone to better, more engaged socialization. German Shepherds can become shy if you skip this step. When you take him to a store or a shop, you allow him to process new environments while feeling secure. Watch how the trainer exposes the pup to simple things like experiencing the shopping cart corral and walking along a bench. Sit obediently in one place. Have him sit close by as you have your coffee. Taking treats with you is a good idea so you can reward your puppy for obeying your commands. Upon developing the discipline to sit relatively quietly, your German Shepherd will become a social superstar, ready to be admired and cuddled by your friends and family. Have Friends and Family Come Over Once your German Shepherd puppy has settled in after a week or two of bringing him home, he should be comfortable enough to entertain visitors. Having a friend come over by then is a good idea. German Shepherds love you unconditionally, but giving treats sure accelerates this love. Having your friend load up on treats before entering the house is a great idea to promote friendliness. Smile at your friend and hug them with open arms. Keep your body language open around your friend. Dogs can sense any nervousness. Have your friend call your pup by his name within a few seconds of being seen by the puppy. The name provides instant familiarity. They will be the familiarity anchor when you take your pup out to meet other people. If your familiar friend is present, your German Shepherd will feel less anxious around people he sees for the first time. An outdoor introduction is placed after an indoor interaction because there are more stimuli outdoors. If you have friends who have dogs, even if not of the same age, you can still arrange to visit or have them come over so they can be around each other. If the other dog is senior, make sure he belongs to a smaller breed, as he may not appreciate the energy of a young pup. The above section covers how to socialize your German Shepherd when he is a puppy. A German Shepherd is considered fully grown at 18 months. This transition from a young dog to an adult can be challenging. Just like teenagers have their socially awkward phase, young dogs do as well. To socialize a one-year-old German Shepherd, you must gradually expose him to indirect social stimuli by taking him on walks, having guests over, and making him feel secure about his status with you. A confident German Shepherd is one ready to go to a dog park. Maybe you got him from the shelter. By playing up the expression of contentment and satisfaction, you give your German Shepherd easy clues to tell when things are okay. Once your dog can see you smile, be relaxed, and use a calm tone in the presence of new people, he too can begin to relax. I quickly realized that I needed to relax more when exposing her to new situations. If you master your mood, you can socialize a German Shepherd well into adulthood. Now, you feel like he should be able to deal with people. To socialize a two-year-old German Shepherd, ensure you are entirely relaxed around company. Your dog may bark aggressively in some instances and act unbothered in others. Whenever he behaves right, reward him. This combination of social cues and positive reinforcement will socialize him. If people have a sudden adverse reaction to the dog because he is barking or snapping at them, he will associate people with discomfort. Instead, you can take him on walks on relatively desolate routes. Dogs do not bark out of bravery, they do so upon detecting threats, and this combination of aggressiveness and insecurity can make them highly antisocial. So, how do you socialize an aggressive German Shepherd? To socialize an aggressive German Shepherd, you must focus on making him feel secure and at ease. Understand that aggression comes from fear and self-preservation. Persisting positive treatment and reinforcing a calm demeanor can help make him a lot less aggressive. Here are a few things you can do to further a drop in aggression. Make a list of possible triggers that seem to get your dog anxious. This could be anything from people who wear beanies to people of a certain height. Knowing how aggressive your German Shepherd gets in the presence of each trigger will help you expose him to said trigger more gradually. Control the environment. Whether you use a harness or a crate, you should have mechanisms in place to control your German Shepherd. Slowly expose your dog to a trigger. Have a friend with a beard appear near his crate without trying to interact with him. Your German Shepherd will start barking but should be ignored. Once he stops barking, you can not just cuddle him but can give him a treat. Repeat the above steps until your dog is desensitized to the trigger. This will take a lot of patience, but eventually, he will be unbothered by the trigger, which will now come undone. Training an aggressive German Shepherd requires a lot of care and is better left to professionals, especially if you start to get nervous when he growls or snaps at people. How to Socialize an Older German Shepherd Getting an older German Shepherd to be more social should not wait because the later you socialize, the harder it is to pull it off. To socialize an older German Shepherd, slow down the socializing clock and take each of the following steps across four weeks each: introduce outside objects indoors, reward indoor exploring, invite friends over, take him outside on walks with gradually escalating levels of crowding and stimuli. Some people believe it is harder to socialize an older German Shepherd. It is incredibly hard, practically impossible, to socialize an older German Shepherd quickly. As a rule of thumb, assume he will take a month or five weeks to learn what a puppy would understand in a week. If an older German Shepherd is aloof and unbothered but not too interested in people, it might take a few weeks — and a few dozen treats to socialize him. By gradually bringing him closer with each walk, you will be able to slowly expose him to other dogs by taking him into the park. From four months to twelve months — A German Shepherd within this age range might take three weeks to enter the dog park without getting stressed or anxious. It might take anywhere between three to eight months to get them to feel comfortable around other dogs. You must be prepared for your GSD to bark endlessly. He might even try to tug you as he leaps forward. Finally, make sure to keep your composure and not be upset when he starts being aggressive. In contrast, when you stay calm and ignore his aggressiveness, the behavior gets discouraged without punishment. GSDs are intelligent , which means they will soon learn two things: Aggressiveness is useless. He gets attention by being calm. First and foremost, one of the biggest mistakes people make is waiting too long to start socializing their German Shepherd. This is the critical period when your puppy is most receptive to new experiences and will be more likely to form positive associations with new people, animals, and environments. Another mistake to avoid is forcing your German Shepherd into social situations that make them uncomfortable. Pushing your dog too far too fast can lead to fear, anxiety, and even aggression. On the other hand, another common mistake is sheltering your German Shepherd too much. This includes introducing them to new people, animals, and environments in a safe and controlled manner. The final mistake committed by people is not being consistent with their socialization efforts. Socialization is an ongoing process that requires regular exposure to new experiences and environments. Here are some engaging and enjoyable socialization activities that you can try with your German Shepherd: Puppy playdates: Arrange playdates with other puppies around the same age and size as your German Shepherd. This will help your pup learn how to interact with other dogs in a safe and controlled environment. Dog-friendly outings: Take your German Shepherd to dog-friendly places like pet stores, dog parks, and outdoor cafes. This will expose them to new sights, sounds, and smells while also giving them the opportunity to interact with other dogs and people. Training classes: Enroll your German Shepherd in a training class, such as obedience or agility training. This will not only help them learn new skills, but also give them the opportunity to socialize with other dogs and people in a structured environment. Hiking or walking: Take your German Shepherd on hikes or long walks in different environments, such as the beach, mountains, or city streets. This will expose them to new sights, sounds, and smells while also providing great exercise and bonding time for you both. This will help them get used to traveling in the car and also expose them to new environments. Playtime at home: Play games with your German Shepherd at home, such as fetch or hide-and-seek. This will not only provide great exercise and mental stimulation, but also help build a strong bond between you and your pup. Socialization walks: Take your German Shepherd on walks in different neighborhoods or areas where they can interact with new people and dogs. This will help them get used to different types of people and dogs and also provide great exercise and socialization opportunities. These approaches work really well in making the process more engaging and successful as well. Final Thoughts: The Importance of Socialization German Shepherds are big dogs with incredible bite strength and single-mindedness that can turn into stubbornness if not managed. You have to teach them how to behave. Dogs are socially conscious, and when your German Shepherd is socially compatible with other dogs and people, his self-esteem and happiness will both improve because his canine cousins and people will be happy around him. Related Posts You May Like:. Training Socialization is a critical part of having a well-mannered pet. It is also an important part of raising a happy dog. Although dogs generally have the same socialization requirements, working dogs like GSDs might need extra care and attention simply because they grow to be larger animals with stronger personalities. How should you socialize a German Shepherd? How to Socialize Your German Shepherd The best way to socialize your German Shepherd is to give them many different types of experiences as early as possible. Expose them to different sounds, textures, situations, and environments. You should also give them opportunities to interact positively with different people and other animals. Otherwise, they could grow up to be fearful and incessantly suspicious of unfamiliar things in their environment. Such dogs will not only be unhappy and constantly anxious but could also develop fear-based aggression. Unsocialized German Shepherds are unenjoyable, difficult to care for, and possibly unsafe to own. Remember that GSDs grow up to be large and powerful dogs. They could cause serious harm if their lack of socialization causes them to behave improperly or lash out. Having a properly socialized GSD means being able to bring them places without fear of hurting others. You can trust them to tolerate guests and be friendly with other dogs and animals. Additionally, socialized dogs are unafraid of the vet or being handled by professional groomers. Ultimately, socialization allows you to have an enjoyable, fuss-free companion. Puppy socialization is most critical within their first six months of life and is most impactful around the 3-month mark. With proper handling and careful exposure to different experiences, they can still undoubtedly learn how to enjoy and interact with their surroundings. The best time to start socialization is as soon as you take them home. That means giving them many opportunities to have positive experiences with their environment. Here are some of the most impactful things you can do to raise a socialized pup: Take them to different places Giving your puppy the opportunity to have positive experiences in different environments enables them to avoid developing fears of the unfamiliar. When taking them to different places, try to also expose their paws to different textures like tile, soil, grass, metal grates, and concrete. Expose them to different situations Take your puppies on car rides and let them walk through crowds and places with plenty of traffic. Expose them to different types of loud noises and walk them beside bikes, cars, motorcycles, and scooters. Try to make every experience a positive one so that they understand that everything is just a normal part of life. Attend training classes Enrolling in a puppy foundations class enables you to learn the best ways to raise your German Shepherd. But it also gives you the additional benefit of being in close contact with other pet owners and their dogs. Involve different people A properly socialized dog knows how to respond to the presence of people. The only way they can master this is to involve different people in their socialization and let them learn through experience. Introduce them to different animals German Shepherds are not only good with other dogs but also with cats and other animals. By interacting and having fun with other animals, they learn to behave properly around them. How to Socialize an Older German Shepherd An older German Shepherd will have already accumulated negative experiences and developed their own ways to cope with fear and anxiety. They may already have dislikes and preferences that would be challenging to change. Nevertheless, socializing an adult GSD is not at all impossible. The most crucial step of socializing an older German Shepherd is to gain their trust. They need to respect you and understand that they can look to you for leadership. The only way to accomplish this is to spend some time with them, develop a relationship, and enable them to associate you with positive experiences. You just have to ensure you have better control due to their size and strength and have the patience to progress slowly so as not to overwhelm them with experiences they were previously wary of. German Shepherd Socialization Problems Lack of socialization is the most common reason why German Shepherds develop behavioral problems. Here are some issues you might experience with an unsocialized GSD: Defensive Aggression Fear-based aggression is one of the most severe consequences of not socializing your German Shepherd. They are uneasy in many situations and respond through defensive aggression. This might include snarling, lunging, charging, and biting. So when they lack positive experiences with their environment, they tend to bark more frequently in an effort to scare their perceived threats away. Destructive Behavior Anxious and nervous dogs tend to be more destructive. They could also develop obsessive-compulsive behaviors like digging or nipping at themselves. Hyperalertness German Shepherds are naturally alert and protective. This leads to a dog that is unable to turn off, is unceasingly vigilant, and seems to be constantly stressed. Final Thoughts The main goal of socializing your German Shepherd is to have a safe, well-adjusted, and pleasurable companion. Socialization also enables them to be happy and confident dogs that engage positively with their environment, other people, and other animals. If you want to learn more about raising a properly socialized, happy, and well-mannered German Shepherd, check out these 10 tips for successful GSD training. These are just a few examples of ways you could socialize your German Shepherd puppy. If there are other events and areas you know you would like to take your dog as an adult, then make sure to start introducing them to these places when they are young. Here is a comprehensive check-list of different places, people, and objects to introduce your puppy to. Should my German Shepherd puppy be fully vaccinated before socializing in public? The answer to this question is an unequivocal yes. When searching this topic online you will find several different answers. Puppies will require three sets of puppy vaccines, spaced 3 weeks apart from each injection. When you take your puppy out in public before they have received adequate protection from all three vaccines, their body is still at risk for contracting infectious illnesses. Many puppies that contract the deadly parvovirus, are in fact puppies that were taken in public after receiving just one or two vaccines before their vaccination routine was complete. Infectious disease can be anywhere, and it is never worth the risk. While you wait for your puppy to be fully vaccinated, you can still engage them in positive socialization experiences. For example, you can: Invite other people to your home. Take them on car rides. Hold them in your arms at pet stores or events, and let other people greet them. Take them to the vet for their routine care. If you begin the vaccination process at weeks of age, your pup can be fully vaccinated by 16 weeks. This leaves you plenty of time to adequately socialize your German Shepherd puppy. Some ways that you can begin to socialize an older dog are: Take them for walks: Taking your dog for frequent walks can teach them so many things. On your walks they may see new surroundings, new people, new animals, and experience new smells. Each walk they go on will give them more experience to relate to, and will in turn boost their confidence. Invite people over: A dog that is not welcoming of others in your home can be dangerous. By showing them friendly interactions with you and others in your home, they will slowly ease into the idea of new people in their environment. This will also help to show them the difference between a welcome visitor and a hostile intruder. Introduce them to other dogs carefully: If you are adopting an older dog, you may not know about their previous experience with other dogs. First, start by introducing them to other pups while they are both controlled on a leash. If this goes well, you can start with short supervised interactions. After these steps are successful, you can slowly work up to dog-friendly environment and parks. Introducing your Shepherd to other dogs when they are a young puppy will be significantly easier than when they are adults. When possible, start introducing them to other dogs and puppies once they are fully vaccinated. By doing this at a young age, you are setting them up to be a well-socialized dog who enjoys the company of other dogs. What if they were not socialized as puppies? What if you adopted an older Shepherd with a tough past? Friendly encounters: When possible, try your best to introduce your nervous dog to friendly dogs. Neutral areas: If your German Shepherd has never met another dog, you will not want to initiate this introduction in your own home. Shepherds can be protective of their home and may become aggressive if they fear their home is being threatened by another dog. Meeting in a neutral setting that neither dog has a tie to is best. Muzzles: If you fear that your dog may become aggressive with another dog, consider putting a basket muzzle on your dog. This will protect other dogs and people from being bitten, without causing your dog any discomfort. Leashes: Any time your dog meets another dog for the first time, keep both canines on a leash. This way you can control the situation if anything goes wrong. Know their limit: If your dog seems anxious, overwhelmed, panicked, aggressive, or shows any other signs of concern — take a step back. Try again another day. Once you have followed these steps above, you should continue to repeat this process until your German Shepherd has become comfortable with other dogs. Each GSD is different and will require a different process than others. While this is an incredible quality in a family dog, it can be quite dangerous when this trait is not controlled. Making sure that your dog is well behaved around new people is one of the most important steps in the socialization process. Some ways to appropriately introduce your Shepherd to new people include: Invite family and friends over. Get them use to people ringing your doorbell. Take them to other houses. Take them to public settings. Stop and talk to people on your walks with your dog. Ask others to interact with your dog on walks have the person talk to your dog, pet it, give it treats. If there are any specific settings or people you would like them to interact with, make sure to introduce them to your dog as early as possible. If your dog goes to a dog park before they are properly socialized and fights with another dog, they are going to associate that experience with other dogs in general. Controlling these situations when possible will help to socialize your dog in a positive way. Start with the basics, and work your way to more challenging situations. A correct pattern of socialization might be to first take your dog on walks, then invite others over, then introduce them to another dog in a controlled environment, then finally work up to social settings with other dogs. Make sure to not skip important steps. Watch your attitude: Socializing your German Shepherd can be a frustrating process. Each dog will progress at their own rate and will need to be surrounded by an encouraging environment. Try your best to be calm, supportive, and kind in new situations for your dog. Offer them praise: If your dog is doing things correctly, you want to make sure to offer them the praise that they deserve. Did it do well on your walk today? Offer it a healthy treat when you return home. Did it play nicely with the new dog they met on your walk today? Make sure to give it extra pats and tell them what a great job they did. These things matter to your pup and will encourage them to continue this behavior. Work at their pace: Quickly forcing your German Shepherd out of their comfort zone is not the answer in proper socialization. For example, if you know your dog does not do well with other dogs, your first instinct should not be to set them loose in a crowded dog park. Introduce these stressful triggers in small doses. Your dog will appreciate it, and it will prevent any setbacks in your socialization process. Try your best to not scold, hit, or punish your dog in any way when they are not socializing in a way you would like. Take a step back, and figure out another way that you can make this work. Basic Obedience Training A german shepherd puppy trained by a dog trainer in a green environment at a sunny springtime. German Shepherds are incredibly obedient dogs that love to please their owners. By teaching them basic commands, you are giving them purpose, and fulfilling their needs to serve their people. By giving them new challenges and commands to learn, you are helping to keep them mentally fit. Some basic obedience training includes: Sit. Digital Marketing German shepherd puppies are energetic, smart and curious about the world around them. These dogs love human interaction and need positive experiences to thrive. Socialization helps your German Shepherd puppy grow into an adult dog who is comfortable in new situations. Socialization is all about exposing a puppy to different experiences, including but not limited to different people, animals, environments, sounds, surfaces, or objects. A well-socialized German Shepherd puppy will grow up to be incredibly well-behaved and socially accepted with well-channelized instincts. So how do you socialize with a German Shepherd puppy? This article will introduce you to everything you need to know on how to socialize a German Shepherd puppy. Puppy socialization explained In essence, socialization helps them learn what to expect from the world around them and gives them the tools they need to navigate it as they get older. This includes new people, dogs, and animals, learning how to interact with new environments, and being exposed to a wide variety of sounds, smells, and sights. Puppies that are well-socialized are more likely to be healthy, obedient pets that make great additions to any household. The importance of socializing a GSD puppy Socialization is an important part of dog ownership. It helps your dog adjust to different situations and learn how to behave appropriately in various environments. This means that every interaction they have with their environment can have a significant impact on their development as a dog. Keep it positive While exposing your strong-willed GSD to a stimulus for the first time, always remember to keep things ultra-positive, encourage curiosity and allow plenty of space and time. When should I start socializing my GSD puppy? Your German Shepherd Puppy is at the critical socialization phase during the first three months of their life. This is when they are like sponges and are most open to new experiences. The exposure your puppy will get during this period will decide the kind of dog he will grow up to be and can also prevent possible behavioral issues in the future. The potential problems of an under-socialized German Shepherd Dog An under-socialized dog may become anxious or distressed when left alone, and it may bark excessively or chew furniture. It may not be well-behaved around other dogs and it could bite someone if it feels threatened. As a result, an under-socialized dog can be a nuisance and difficult to manage, and they are more likely to develop undesirable behaviors in the future, such as excessive barking or aggression towards other dogs and people. Socializing a GSD puppy at an early age will help your puppy display calmness as a response to novelty, which is of utmost importance in social situations. While introducing your pup to a new stimulus, remember to — — Reward frequently for good behavior — Avoid overstimulation — Keep hyper behavior in check by taking frequent breaks — Give your puppy a choice to back off in case of discomfort — Always end on a positive note 1 Socialize your German Shepherd puppy on different surfaces While introducing your puppy to new surfaces, ensure ease and safety. If your dog is unwilling to step onto a certain surface, use treats and toys to encourage movement and have your dog on a leash. Puppies can be apprehensive of certain surfaces like metal. Take it slow, ensure repeated, positive exposure and never force or drag your puppy.

Conclusions for when Goldendoodles calm down At what age do Goldendoodles calm down? There is light at the end of the tunnel for a worried Goldendoodle owner. There are three stages of Goldendoodle energy level to pass through. Although you should always expect an energetic and upbeat dog — the overall excitement level will lessen as they age and progress. Expect a Goldendoodle to calm down around months of age. They will be past the puppy stage and into adulthood. Expect energetic and sometimes crazy behavior until they transition into the adult phase. This can be delayed an entire year or more for some dogs also. The craziest level of energy and frantic personality will occur in the first puppy stage of development. A Hyperactive Goldendoodle puppy Most Goldendoodles are going to be more than a little energetic. Expect exciting behavior, zoomies, plenty of licking , and boundless curiosity. It is this curiosity that can lead even the gentlest and kindest Goldendoodle into becoming a bit naughty. Even if your Goldendoodle is a standard or larger size — they will still mentally be a puppy for a long time. Even if they are so tall that they can stretch upright and be taller than you! Larger sized Goldendoodles sometimes give their owners slightly more hassle with the frenetic energy. This is not because larger sized Goldendoodle is more likely to be crazy — it is because their antics and power are more destructive because of their size. We just need to expect Goldendoodle puppies to be frantic, overexcited, and sometimes to get so wound up they forget their manners. Positive reinforcement and food as a motivating treat ned to be used form early on to start the glacially slow training process for a crazy Goldendoodle. So when should you expect change? The transition from Puppy into Adult Goldendoodle in terms of behavior will occur anywhere from months. It should be noted that transitioning into the adult phase is not a magic bean solution to a hyperactive Goldendoodle expect some of the behavior to continue! But now you are through the woods if you are consistent and the training is positive — you can expect less NEW destructive or hyper behaviors to occur. Can Goldendoodles swim? Do they like pools and beaches? Tips for dealing with a hyper Goldendoodle puppy Usually, during the puppy phase, most CRAZY Goldendoodle behavior can be attributed to a single cause. The primary issue is one of over excitement. Goldendoodles have a zeal for life and an outgoing personality to match. This is one of the reasons they are so popular as a dog for families with children. Reprimanding will often not achieve the desired result. At this early stage up to the 18 months , diversion AND prevention are typically a better approach to minimize over excitement. Use Nose work to Calm Down a Crazy Goldendoodle The inability to focus and lack of concentration are primary aspects of crazy Goldendoodle behavior. There are easy things you can do with your dog at home to engage their attention and promote calmness. Got an over excited puppy? Try out nose work! It is simple and fun to get started. You can DIY it at home! For more dog videos check out our Oodle Life YouTube channel Nose work scent training is a simple and easy pastime for Goldendoodles that wears them out mentally and physically — and can easily be performed indoors. A great way to distract your crazy Goldendoodle AND get them to concentrate is to start with some nose work or sniff training. As you can see in this video of a Labradoodle puppy beginning scent training, it can initially be a straightforward scenario. Primarily you play hide and seek with the desired food treat. Dried liver snacks, boiled chicken, even capsicum or grated cheese can be used as hides Reward each find with an extra set of treats Progressively make the hides more difficult as the days and weeks progress Examples include getting the dog to reach its nose into a box Place the hides in a plastic container or something that has noise Reduce the total number of hides but put our more places to search Although Goldendoodle rarely lack confidence, the gradual increase in difficulty will help boost self-assuredness The act of sniffing is both mentally and physically tiring for a Goldendoodle. So cute! When an older Goldendoodle Acts Crazy or Hyper Once a Goldendoodle transitions into the adult phase of its life, it often sees a reduction in the total intensity of the crazy or manic behavior. Do not expect it to completely disappear, though! Goldendoodles are brimming with energy and have a zeal for life that lasts for… life. If there are learned behaviors not redirected as a puppy — you can expect these to continue later. This is why problem chewing needs to be deal with early. Another common issue is that of excessive barking. Goldendoodles can have a booming bark. Loud even for the dog of their size! All size Goldendoodles from teacup right through the bigger standard Goldendoodles or sturdily built English Goldendoodles can have a loud and alarming bark. Barking is a natural behavior, and it is not reasonable to expect a Goldendoodle to never bark. Problem barking, however, is a behavioral issue that can be addressed. If left unchecked, it will annoy neighbors and just be a general nuisance! Our Goldendoodles may be smart — but sometimes we have to baby them and play tricks like warning the postman OR blocking out windows to stop excessive barking. These are soft non harming nips that do not hurt the owner or pierce the skin. If this transitions into biting OR continues after 12 months of age — you need to quickly implement at-home training or seek advice from a professional. Play biting should drop off significantly once the puppy teeth have been replaced. This occurs by around 8 months of age. Do not tolerate biting that causes harm at any age. If the biting habit persists and it not addressed — you will have a lifetime of troubles with the dog. The ramifications to yourself, your family, — and the issues taking the dog in public will further compound into making your crazy Goldendoodle act our even more. A beautiful black Goldendoodle puppy! The conventional wisdom for a Goldendoodle is that any hyper or crazy behavior should have plateaued by three years of age. Consider 2. If you are still experiencing crazy or boisterous behavior by 2. If it is upsetting the family dynamic, you may need to consider more intense obedience training or the help of an in-home dog trainer to overcome the issues. I asked two Goldendoodle owners with older dogs. They have commented in the past their thoughts on when Goldendoodles become entirely calm. She also barked at everything and would pine whenever we left her alone. We were so worried she was a bit of a handful in those times. Thank goodness the biting and chewing stopped after she lost her baby teeth at 6 months. The rest of the crazy only really reduced at around age 2. Marlie is still very active and cheerful, but we love her, and it is very manageable. We keep him extremely active and tire him out daily to reduce the craziness. He never has been hyper too much — but was naughty till around age 3. He tested us! We had to wait so long for him to mature. Luckily there are ingenious dog toys that will distract our Goldendoodles and reduce the amount of hyper crazy moments we have. Our Oodle Life recipe for a delicious Kong treat Kong-tail You can tire your dog out with a bunch of different toys, but nothing really beats the good old fashioned Kong. A puzzle toy that then gives treats later turns into a sweet-smelling for your Goldendoodle chew toy once the frozen goodies are gone. Learn how to best stuff a Kong and make a Kong-tail in our detailed guide. The smaller ones often live for over fifteen years. Find out how long you should expect your particular type of Goldendoodle to live here. In their old age — expect a degree of calmness from your dog that might be a touch of surprise. After all — this calm comes only once the Goldendoodle turns ten years of age. After a decade of exuberant excitement — it would be nice to have a serene and calm final run with your beloved dog. Pamper them! Conclusions for when Goldendoodles calm down A hyper or crazy acting Goldendoodle can be a severe problem to address. The solution is going to be a combination of time, training, and patience. Redirecting problem behaviors and positive reinforcement are key. Working through each problem e. Solve each issue, and one by one, you will improve the calmness of your Goldendoodle. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Related posts: The goldendoodle puppy stage can last anywhere from 6 to 18 months. The goldendoodle puppy stage is an enchanting time filled with lots of learning, growth and development. With proper care and nutrition during this critical period, goldendoodles can be poised for a lifetime of good health and happiness. During this time, your pup will need lots of love, attention, and patience. It can be difficult to keep up with our regular routines. Having a goldendoodle, for example, during this unknown time requires extra care and attention. See also Training Your Mini Goldendoodle to Bark Less Your pup will need plenty of love, snuggles, playtime, as well as patience from its owners. Doing so will help them feel comforted and leave you with a warm feeling in your heart knowing that you are doing your part to make their life just a little easier during these tough times. Expect lots of chewing, biting, and nipping as your pup explores its new teeth. Bringing a goldendoodle puppy into the home is an exciting event. As soon as those little teeth begin to appear, expect lots of chewing, biting , and nipping as your goldendoodle explores its new teeth. Fortunately, this phase will only last a few months before nice new adult teeth take their place! This is also the time when your pup will start to develop its own personality traits. With goldendoodles, you get all the adorableness of your favorite pup and none of the shedding. And now that your goldendoodle is growing up, this is also the time when it will start to develop its own unique personality traits. See also The Secret To Goldendoodle Potty Habits Whether you see a sassy little snuggle monster or an adventurous high-energy pup, goldendoodles continue to bring joy and laughter into your life each and every day. The bright golden eyes of your goldendoodle show its intelligence and understanding, making them an ideal family dog. Each goldendoodle pup will manifest its own specific set of characteristics as it matures, so be ready for lots of surprises along your goldendoodle journey! Be prepared for some sleepless nights as puppies often have trouble sleeping through the night. When you bring home a goldendoodle puppy, be ready for some sleepless nights. Young puppies almost always have trouble sleeping through the night as they adjust to their new environment and routine. Understandably, your goldendoodle will likely be caught up in their newfound freedom, causing them to stay awake either from excitement or anxiety. Being prepared for these restless nights is the key to preventing frustration. It may take them some time, but eventually, your goldendoodle will sleep peacefully through the night. Crate training your goldendoodle during this stage can be a great way to teach them how to stay calm and quiet when left alone. With crate training, goldendoodles often develop an understanding of their own space which in turn reduces their anxiety anytime they are left alone at home or in other settings. See also The Puppy Stage: A Guide to Raising a Mini Goldendoodle in Their First Year Setting boundaries early for them is essential for goldendoodles as it helps them remain attentive yet relaxed when needed and fosters trust between you and your pup. Crate training not only helps goldendoodle better self-manage their excitement but sets the tone for further interactive activities together that will help bond you closer. Congratulations on your new goldendoodle puppy! This stage is a fun and exciting time for you and your pup, but it can also be challenging. Be prepared for lots of chewing, biting, nipping, and sleepless nights. With lots of love, attention, and patience, you will help your pup adjust to its new life and develop into the wonderful dog you know it can be. Related posts:. Many puppy owners are shocked, surprised or downright freaked out about the way that their cute little puppy is behaving. Check out which stage your puppy is in, and it will help explain a lot like he isn't crazy! Behaviors can be accounted for with these stages, but a lot of these behaviors are also not acceptable and you must train and lead the way. The mother of your puppy will start the process by building the foundation. This responsibility will then be turned over to you. It can not be expressed enough times how important it is for you to train and lead your puppy so that he will be a happy well adjusted member of your family for life. Puppy Toddlers Period 3 - 8 Weeks "Mom teaches dog manners" During the Toddler period, the doodle puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. Puppies removed too early tend to be nervous, tend to bark a lot, tend to bite simply because these lessons a mother and littermates usually provides were missed. Training problems and long-term behavior problems can often be attributed to a puppy removed from the litter much too soon. Beginning at 5 weeks of age, what is going on: Vocalization and tempered activities dog manners usually are learned at approximately 5 weeks of age. What the Puppy's mother will do: The mother will growl, snarl and snap to communicate. With a few very clear signals and repetitions, the young puppy will learn quickly. At that point a mothers glare or low growl is all that is needed to keep a young pup in line. Littermates also learn clear signals of communication to each other. Socialization Period 7 - 12 Weeks and First Fear Imprint Period Weeks "Lasting impact, rapid learning" Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical Socialization period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences. They need to be introduced to new things and begin the groundwork to a happy, well-adjusted dog. Seniority Classification Period Weeks "You're not the boss of me! He has been watching you and the family very closely. He is picking up on human behaviors and reactions. He is learning the pecking order of the pack. As he observes and learns, he will then attempt to figure out where exactly he stands in the pack order, and to also see if moving up in the pack will work. After all, he knows who the "weak links" are and will start at the bottom and try to move right up the pack. How could such a cute little pup be such a pistol? Flight Instinct Period 4 - 8 Months "Fly like an Eagle, into the wind" Your cute little puppy has been following you around for weeks now. He has been aware of where you are and would stay pretty close. During this period that same cute little puppy will decide that he is ready to go solo and take off running quicker than lightening. During this time, teaching the puppy that he must stay close by or come when called is critical. The failure to do this will result in a dog that will not be reliable to come or to stay close by as an adult and very well could lead the dog into a life or death situation. Yes this is redundant to the above, so it must be pretty important for us to say it twice. Adolescence Period 7 - 10 months "Welcome to the Teenage Years - Enjoy the Ride" This is one of the most difficult times for pet owners. They are so surprised when their puppy turns into "devil dog" or "cujo". This often is a time when many families start to worry that maybe they made a bad decision in getting a dog. Remember: you get what you put into it. You take the time right now to teach good habits, you will have the dog you always dreamed of for many years. This work will payoff. It will help. What's up with that? But then, BAM, he refuses to walk down some stairs, he is shaking in the car, or he jumps at the sound of the neighbor's music. This is normal, but you must help your dog figure out how to deal with his fears or concerns. The skills of learning how to "shake it off and keep going" will be valuable to him for the rest of his life. It will also reduce the chances that the things he fears will not be permanently imprinted for life. He will begin to fill out a bit and develop more muscle tone. But, mentally, the dog is still working out some last details of his life and what it means to him. He IS a member of a pack and now begins to find that his turf is worthy of monitoring and protecting. Sort of sounds nice to have your dog be protective, but don't fall for it. You do not want you dog to take over these responsibilities because in no time you too will be under the rule of the King Dog. Which can lead to aggressive behaviors, protective to the point of creating fear or actually harming someone or another animal as he protects. This is bad news, and often a reason a dog is taken out of the home or destroyed. So, don't allow your dog to be the King of the Castle, assign him the role of court jester - he will be happier and so will your family. By Kern Campbell Is there anything cuter than a Goldendoodle puppy? Not much. How long do Goldendoodles stay puppies? Puppies need different levels of nutrients than adult dogs. This is especially true for Standard Goldendoodles since large breed dogs are more prone to developing bone and joint issues if they grow too quickly or without the right nutrients. When in doubt, ask your vet. Just remember to transition your Goldendoodle from puppy food to adult food slowly to avoid an upset stomach. How Big Do Goldendoodles Get? Your Goldendoodle puppy may be cute and tiny now, but how big will they grow to be? That depends on how big their parents were. Standard Goldendoodles are usually pounds when fully grown. They will typically weigh between 35 and 50 pounds when fully grown. Toy Goldendoodles are usually a cross between a Mini Goldendoodle and a Toy Poodle and weigh less than 35 pounds. Ask the breeder how much each parent dog weighs to get an idea of what to expect. Lexie, A 5 year-old fully grown F2 Mini Goldendoodle. Do Goldendoodles Have Growth Spurts? Goldendoodle puppies do a ton of growing for the first 6 months to a year of their lives. All that growth can definitely happen in spurts. Growth spurts are more noticeable in Standard Goldendoodle because they have more growing to do than Mini or Toy Goldendoodles. One reason that puppies sleep so much hours per day! Stage 1: Birth to 3 Weeks Goldendoodle puppies are born blind, deaf, and toothless. Their entire existence is basically just eating, sleeping, and growing. Puppies open their eyes around 2 weeks old. Their ears open and teeth start growing around 3 weeks. At 3 weeks, your Goldendoodle puppy was finally aware of and interacting with the world. They were learning to crawl, bark, and play with their littermates. Stage 2: 3 to 7 Weeks During this period, your puppy was growing stronger and interacting with the world more. This stage is crucial for learning bite inhibition. When a puppy bites one of their littermates too hard, the other puppy will yelp and stop playing. By the end of stage 2, Goldendoodle puppies can eat puppy food , bark, run, wag their tail, and be left alone for a little while. Stage 3: 7 to 12 Weeks Stage 3 is a crucial stage for learning. Your puppy will learn more than you could expect. However, they will also start to develop fear at some point in this stage. Puppy classes, socialization, and training basic commands are all crucial during this stage. Stage 4: 12 to 16 Weeks During this stage, Goldendoodle puppies start teething and pushing boundaries. Just remember to be gentle — harsh words or punishments can cause your puppy to fear you. Stage 5: 16 to 40 Weeks During this stage, your Goldendoodle puppy will continue to grow and may test your limits. This is a critical time for training and socialization. This may also be a good time to get your Goldendoodle puppy spayed or neutered — talk to your vet about their recommendation. Stage 6: 40 Weeks to 1 Year Smaller Goldendoodle puppies will stop growing in this period. Standard Goldendoodles may stop growing in height but will still fill out for a few more months. This stage is like the teenage years — your Goldendoodle will have the body of an adult with the attitude and energy of a puppy. During this stage, your Goldendoodle may try to assert dominance over you and the rest of your family. You must gently remind them that you are the boss while using plenty of positive reinforcement. Shouting, hitting, or otherwise punishing your Goldendoodle may cause fear aggression. Stage 7: 1 Year and Up Your Goldendoodle should reach full developmental and sexual maturity between 1 and 2 years of age. Once your Goldendoodle is fully grown, you can switch them to adult food and increase the intensity of their exercise with less risk of damaging growing bones and joints. Goldendoodle puppies have LOTS of energy. So, what can you do? As a puppy, the best way to help your Goldendoodle burn energy is to play with them. This has the added bonus of being great bonding for you and your puppy. Puzzle toys are a great way to help your puppy burn energy while using their mind. Lexie, our Goldendoodle using her dog treat puzzle toy! How Long Do Goldendoodles Live? On average, Goldendoodles live around years. As your Goldendoodle reaches their senior years, you will want to switch them from adult dog food to senior dog food. These are the typical week-by-week Goldendoodles stages that you will go through with a new Goldendoodle puppy and what signs to look for that they are not developing correctly. Predicting average weights in Goldendoodles is challenging. The parent breeds are the strongest predictor of size, but hybrids can be unpredictable. Standard poodles and Golden Retrievers are both large dog breeds. However, a toy poodle or mini poodles can be bred to larger breeds like Golden Retrievers to produce a much smaller dog, like a toy Goldendoodle or even teacup Goldendoodles. Dogs with long lines registered with the Goldendoodle Association may have more predictable traits, but not as much as an AKC purebred dog. These puppies are born blind, deaf, and without teeth. These first weeks are a very critical time in their development. Your puppy will start to open their eyes at about 2 weeks of age. By the time that they are 3 weeks, their ears will be open, and you will start to notice that their teeth are pushing through their gums. At the end of this first stage, your Goldendoodle puppy will be aware of their surroundings. They will start to bark, crawl, and interact with the other puppies in their litter. At the end of this first puppy stage, they are aware of everything that is around them and are trying to crawl, bark, and interact with their littermates. During this time, they will continue to grow in size rapidly. Most importantly, they start to get more socially active with their mom, littermates, and the people in their lives. Your puppy will start to learn many new things during this stage of puppy development. Their mother will begin to teach them a few basic manners and start the weaning process. They will learn how to play with other puppies and what other puppies will tolerate. This is when they will learn how strong of a bite they have and what is okay for playing. They will usually establish a pecking order within the litter of puppies. This is the main reason why most breeders do not recommend taking the puppies from their litter and mother until they are about 7 to 8 weeks old. By 6 to 7 weeks of age, your Goldendoodle puppy will be able to be left alone for a short period of time. They will also be doing normal puppy behaviors such as eating puppy food , walking, running, and wagging their tail. This is also the time that your Goldendoodle puppy will need their first set of vaccines and dewormed. Most breeders will take their puppies to the vet for these vaccines. This way, they know that their puppies have received the vaccines that they need to get started off on the right track. Stage 3: 7 weeks to 12 Weeks After 7 weeks of age, your puppy is old enough to leave their mother and other littermates and go to their new home. This will probably be around the age when your first get your Goldendoodle. At first, try to keep everything just like the breeder had been. This helps keep your puppy on a normal routine while they are adjusting to their new house. Once your puppy has been at your house for a few days, you can slowly switch things if you want. You may already have a diet you want your puppy to eat. Also, make sure that your dog is eating large-breed puppy food. This will make sure that your Goldendoodle puppy is receiving the best nutrition needed for their fast-growing body. If you do plan on switching diets, make sure that you do this slowly; quickly changing diets can cause GI problems in your new puppy. At this age, your puppy will be ready to start learning everything and experiencing everything you are ready to teach them. They learn very fast at this age, so it is important to make sure that you are teaching them correctly. Your puppy can learn basic commands and manners by going to puppy classes. This will also give them socialization with other puppies and people during this stage. Having many different social encounters will help them become a very well-mannered dog. During this time, your Goldendoodle puppy may show signs of fear. This is a normal experience for a puppy to go through. They may be afraid of certain people, places, or things that they have never been afraid of. During this time, it is important to continue to socialize your Goldendoodle puppy and show them that these things are not as scary as they first thought they were. Make sure not to expose them to a lot of simulations at once, as these can cause them to become more afraid. Stage 4: 3 months to 4 months This is the stage of development when your Goldendoodle puppy will start to become independent. They may even start to challenge you or even ignore you. This is very similar to the terrible twos in people. Your Goldendoodle puppy will also start teething around this time. They will have very painful gums, which will cause them to want to bite and chew on anything possible. Make sure that you are providing your puppy with plenty of approved chewing toys in order to keep your shoes and furniture from becoming the next chew object. During this stage, you may find that you are telling your puppy no a lot. All this training will eventually pay off, and your puppy will be very well-mannered and do what you tell them to. Most of the time, your Goldendoodle puppy just wants to please you. All you must do is give them a little patience and love, and they will quickly learn what is expected of them. By starting obedience classes during this time, you will help your puppy become a friendly and well-behaved adult Goldendoodle. Stage 5: 4 months to 10 months During this time, your Goldendoodle puppy will continue to grow and develop very quickly. It is very important to continue teaching and training your Goldendoodle puppy. They will learn how to adapt to different social situations and what behavior is approved and what is not approved during this time. They will also continue to challenge you, so be prepared to stick to your training and not back off. During this time, your Goldendoodle may act a little bratty. There are going through their teenage years during this time. Also, during this time, do not let your dog play-bite with you, as this can teach them to be aggressive and encourage other dominant behaviors Around 6 months of age, it is advised to spay or neuter your Goldendoodle puppy. These procedures will help your puppy stay healthy and happy as well as prevent unwanted litters that end up in the shelter. Stage 6: 10 months to 1 Year During this stage, small Goldendoodles will reach their full size. They will usually reach maturity around 8 to 12 months of age. Larger Goldendoodles will continue to grow during this time and may not fully develop until they are 18 months to 2 years old. Your Goldendoodle puppy may now look like an adult dog; they usually are still developing mentally. They will have a ton of energy and usually not a lot of common sense. You will still need to monitor your Goldendoodle for any unwanted behavior and quickly correct any problems that you notice starting. Even though they are no longer a puppy, they will still need to continue training and learning commands. At this stage, your Goldendoodle will need lots of attention and exercise to keep them for getting into trouble. Always use a very firm voice and positive reinforcement when training and correcting unwanted behavior. It is best to have a loving and patient but firm voice when training your Goldendoodle Stage 7: 1 year and Older Between 1 and 2 years of age, your Goldendoodle will be fully developed and sexually mature. Your puppy will finally stop growing but may fill out in size just a little. At this point, you can now start exercising more with your Goldendoodle. They love to go for a jog, do agility training, or go for a long hike. Since their bones are now fully developed, there is less likely that they are going to have joint or stress injuries. This is also the best time to switch your puppy from puppy food to adult food. It is always best to stay with the same brand of puppy food that you fed to help decrease any GI signs from switching food. When switching food, it is recommended to switch food slowly. Also, make sure that the diet that you are feeding your Goldendoodle puppy is a high-quality diet. When will my Goldendoodle puppy need to be vaccinated? This is a common schedule most veterinarians follow when vaccinating puppies. This is usually done by the breeder before you get your Goldendoodle puppy. Most of these worms are microscopic, but some you can see in their stool. If you see worms, make sure to let your vet know. Your vet can give your Goldendoodle puppy medication to get rid of these nasty worms. Not only will your pet need vaccines, but they will also need heartworm, flea, and tick prevention. All of these parasites can cause health problems in your Goldendoodle, some of which can be fatal. If you notice something is not right in your Goldendoodle puppy, it is best to take them to the vet. Some very young Goldendoodle puppies can have problems regulating their blood sugar. If you notice that your Goldendoodle puppy has diarrhea, this can be from the stress of going to a new house, parasites, or even parvo. Any problems noticed in your puppy could be very serious, your vet can examine your pet and make sure that there is nothing that is wrong with your puppy. It would be better to be safe than sorry if your pet has something very serious going on. Both parvo and parasites can easily be prevented by sticking to the vaccine schedule and making sure that your puppy is properly dewormed. How big will my Goldendoodle puppy be? It can be hard to tell as puppies which one will be the biggest or which one will be the smallest. Usually, from the time that they are born until the day that you pick up your new puppy, all the puppies in the litter will change in size. At 8 weeks old, the smallest in the litter will usually be the smallest when they are all fully grown. The older your puppy gets, the easier it will be to determine if your puppy will be bigger or smaller. The exact adult weight can be a guess, but you can expect a miniature Goldendoodle to weigh about 4 to 9 pounds at 8 weeks old and a standard Goldendoodle to weigh over 9 pounds at 8 weeks old, and a medium-size Goldendoodle to fall between the 8 to pound range. Most dogs do most of their growing in the first 6 months of life. Smaller and miniature Goldendoodles will be half-grown at 4 months of age, with larger Goldendoodles taking a few months longer to reach this half-grown point. The larger the dog, the longer it will take them to reach adult size. When will my Goldendoodle Puppy stop growing? It may seem as if your Goldendoodle is getting bigger each day. Most Goldendoodle will be done growing by 1 to 2 years of age. They will usually reach their maximum height by 1 year of age and just fill out a little bit in the next year. Miniature Goldendoodle will be done growing by 7 to 10 months. The smaller the dog, the quicker they reach their adult body weight. Standard Goldendoodle should reach their full size by 2 years of age. After your Goldendoodle reaches 1 year of age, you need to monitor what you are feeding them. Lexie, 5-year-old fully grown F2 Mini Goldendoodle. Adult Stage Since your puppy is now over a year old, they are not growing, but there are some things that you need to consider as they start to get older. Goldendoodles that have just matured are usually very active. As your Goldendoodle gets older, they will start to slow down and sleep a little more. There are diseases that you need to look out for as your Goldendoodle gets older. If you notice any of these signs in your Goldendoodle, you need to see a veterinarian. Also, check out our Goldendoodle puppy weight calculator — a tool that gives you an idea of how big your puppy may get based on a few factors. About the F1 Goldendoodle The Goldendoodle is a crossbreed that only recently captured the hearts of dog lovers. Both the Golden Retriever and the Standard Poodle are a medium- to large-size breed, thereby creating a medium- to large-size breed in the Standard Goldendoodle. In comparison, F2 Goldendoodles have two F1 parents. Either way, this designer breed is active, a good companion, intelligent, social, easily trainable, and can also make a good guide or therapy dog. Our veterinarian, Dr. Jennifer Coates, emphasizes the importance of keeping puppies lean. The abdomen and waist should show a noticeable tuck when viewed from the side and top of the dog. Work with your veterinarian to figure out the best size for your Goldendoodle as she grows into adulthood. Using roughly 50, healthy dogs as a reference, the Waltham puppy charts show the target range for a healthy growing puppy. Moving lower on the chart could be associated with unhealthy weight loss. What Age do Goldendoodles Stop Growing? A Goldendoodle puppy goes through a typical puppyhood, consisting of multiple developmental stages. Those stages make up the first to second year of life. For instance, a Standard Goldendoodle puppy will, on average, grow at about the same rate as other medium to large dogs like the German Shepherd and Collie. A Medium Goldendoodle may take a couple of more months to reach most of his adult size. A Standard Goldendoodle is a large-size dog and typically takes just over a year to become fully grown. But this is an average and some dogs can take up to 2 years to become full-grown adult dogs. The AKC estimates a large dog who weighs anywhere from 51 to pounds reaches full size at around 18 months old. How big your puppy gets depends on which type of Goldendoodle you have or are going to get — mini, medium, or standard. Across the three types, adult dogs can weigh anywhere from 15 to 90 pounds. Even then, knowing how big your Goldendoodle will get is not exact. For a guide, check out our Goldendoodle weight chart, which breaks down the weight range for each type of Goldendoodle puppy, from 8 weeks old to fully grown. The Miniature Goldendoodle weighs approximately 15 to 30 pounds in adulthood. He stands about 13 to 15 inches high at the shoulders. The Medium Goldendoodle weighs around 30 to 45 pounds in adulthood and stands roughly 15 to 20 inches at the shoulder. The Standard Goldendoodle weighs approximately 45 to 90 pounds in adulthood, and measures about 20 to 24 inches at the shoulders. Coates, advises the numbers are a general gauge. Goldendoodle Puppy Size and Weight Calculator Goldendoodle puppies sport a variety of coat types and colors, never mind sizes. If you want to keep your furniture dog-hair free, check special pet hair removal tools to keep your home tidy. No matter which Goldendoodle graces your life, or might soon, your new puppy is sure to bring you lots of smiles. Take care of your puppy, monitor her growth, and keep close tabs on her health. Refer to our Goldendoodle puppy growth chart to see the average growth rate for puppies 8 weeks old and up. Beginning with the Mini Goldendoodle growth chart and ending with the Standard Goldendoodle growth chart, we provide you with the average weight ranges per month across the three different-size Goldendoodles, for males and females. For instance, a 3-month-old Miniature Goldendoodle puppy typically weighs between 6 and 12 pounds, while a 3-month-old Medium Goldendoodle puppy weighs between 12 and 18 pounds. Also included in the chart is the average height for the full-size Miniature, Medium, and Standard Goldendoodle. You can also use our puppy size predictor to find out how big your Goldendoodle might get as an adult. We start Puppy Culture when the pups are only three days old - holding them in different positions and offering other tactile stimulation such as tickling toes. During this time one of the most important developments is the introduction to people and other dogs. Beginning at five weeks, puppies begin enjoying playtime and become aware of their surroundings and positive interaction with people will play a large part in how they continue to relate with humans. Establishing positive experiences and relationships with humans will help their continued development in the future. In the meantime, the eight weeks spent with their littermates are crucial for developing bonding, playing skills and other dog socialization cues. As previously mentioned, at JLDD we utilize the Puppy Culture development program during the first 8 weeks which includes among other things: LOTS of exposure to new stimulation every day, animal sounds on YouTube, introduction to other dogs, introduction to water pool day , individual time away from littermates, obstacle courses, introduction to household noises and even people wearing alternate clothing items sunglasses, hats, dangly earrings, etc. Not to worry…this short period can be helped by positive, encouraging training and your puppy will grow out of it! If a new experience such as using a blow dryer after a bath seems particularly frightening to your pup, introduce it again more gradually and reward with treats! They still need frequent naps and very frequent potty breaks potty training begins during the latter stages of our puppy culture program. Overall, they are quite manageable as they are still so snuggly and sleepy. Beginning structured training at this juncture is crucial - a stable schedule and consistent boundaries are helpful for the pup navigating the fear period and setting the framework for future obedience training. It is also when we start to hear from a lot of owners complaining about biting. Remember that this is developmentally normal and does not mean your pup is aggressive. Dogs are very wired to use their mouth—chewing and play-biting are ingrained in their DNA, especially at this age when a pup is losing his baby teeth and growing new permanent teeth. We have three words of encouragement here: patience, patience, patience! This phase will pass in a couple months! Sound familiar, parents? This behavior is actually very similar to a crawling human baby putting everything in their mouth. The good news is that just like baby humans, they will grow out of it. In the meantime, do your best to discourage it by disengaging and redirecting. Then you can re-engage and redirect with a toy. In other words, be all kinds of excited when she is chewing on a toy, but immediately end play and be a total stick in the mud when she bites you. Some pups enter a secondary fear period at this age—again, consistent positive socialization experiences will help him navigate this period and come out more confident than before. For parents of teenagers, this might feel familiar! In conclusion, remember that doodles are a fairly active breed so the puppy phase is not for the faint of heart. We recommend consistent discipline and exercise mental and physical stimulation will definitely keep your pup more settled in the house. Predicting the mature size of a puppy is by no means an exact science, especially with a hybrid breed like the goldendoodle. How big will my goldendoodle puppy be? From birth until the gotchya day, puppies have fluctuated back and forth in terms of who weighs the most. Even though adult weight is a bit of a guess for a young puppy, expect mini goldendoodles to weigh 4lbs-9lbs at 8 weeks of age. A medium puppy and standard puppy may both weigh 9lbs at 8 weeks old, but the standard puppy with gain weight at a quicker rate than the medium. Like most dog breeds, goldendoodles generally do the majority of their growing in the first six months of life. In fact, many mini goldendoodle puppies reach half of their adult weight by four months. Standard goldendoodles may take a month or so longer to reach that halfway mark. The larger the dog, the longer growing takes. For mini goldendoodles, expect the weight to start leveling off between months of age. Standard goldendoodles, like other large dog breeds, will grow for a longer period of time. While this rule may work for many standards, it is not accurate with smaller-sized goldendoodles who finish growing at a younger age. When will my goldendoodle stop growing? Dogs can finish growing anywhere between years of age, but generally reach their maximum height by a year of age and spend the remaining months filling out. This means your dog might hit a growth spurt right after her first birthday — she might not get any taller but she could thicken up. Golden retrievers grow at a slower rate in terms of height than standard poodles, but fill out more quickly. Golden retrievers tend to finish growing and filling out between months while standard poodles can take up to 2 years to accomplish the same. Established breeds generally reproduce naturally, whereas first-generation mini goldendoodles require artificial insemination. Subsequent generations of hybrid breeds i. F1b, F2b, etc. F1b goldendoodles can potentially have a slightly more predictable size range if the parents are similar sizes. Our 19lb F1 goldendoodle and 24lb poodle produce F1b mini goldendoodle puppies ranging in weight from lbs as adults. Embark is a canine genetic testing company that offers a variety of canine disease and trait tests in their panel. Order an Embark testing kit off Amazon , send in that quick cheek swab, and Embark will happily send you the results. Check out our goldendoodle puppy time lapses to watch various goldendoodles grow up right before your eyes! If you would like to submit data, please complete our quick survey or email goldendoodles timberidgefarms. Growth patterns vary from dog to dog but there are some generalities you may find helpful. Remember, this is a guide only, not a guarantee! Thank you for your support! We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share this:. The age a Goldendoodle is fully grown depends on their size. Teacup Goldendoodles finish growing first between 7 and 9 months of age while Standard Goldendoodles take a lot longer, finishing growing between 12 and 16 months of age. All Goldendoodle sizes have reached their full adult height and weight by 16 months of age. Teacup Goldendoodles are fully grown between 7 and 9 months of age. They reach their full adult size and weight very young as they are such as small dog breed. Toy Goldendoodles are fully grown between 8 and 11 months of age. They reach their full adult size and weight very relatively young as smaller dog breeds typically stop growing earlier than larger breeds, within their first year of life. At three and a half months of age Toy Goldendoodles are roughly half of their adult size. Mini Goldendoodles are fully grown between 11 and 13 months of age when they reach their full adult weight. Around 4 months of age Mini Goldendoodle puppies are approximately half their adult weight. Medium Goldendoodles are fully grown between 11 and 13 months of age. This is the same growth rate as a Mini Goldendoodle. Around 4 to 5 months of age a Medium Goldendoodle reaches half their adult weight. Standard Goldendoodle are fully grown between 12 and 16 months of age. The larger your Standard Goldendoodle, the longer it will take them to reach their full adult size. Goldendoodle via jalebi. The size of a full grown Goldendoodle depends on the size of Poodle the Golden Retriever was originally crossed with. Teacup Goldendoodles are between 8 and 13 inches tall, Toy Goldendoodles are between 10 and 16 inches tall, Mini Goldendoodles are between 15 and 17 inches tall, Medium Goldendoodles are between 17 and 20 inches tall and Standard Goldendoodles are between 20 and 26 inches tall. You can read about all of these sizes in depth in our Goldendoodle size guide here. They are the smallest Goldendoodle size. They are the second smallest Goldendoodle size. They are the middle Goldendoodle size. The two larger sizes are the Medium and Standard Goldendoodle and the two smaller sizes are the Teacup and Toy Goldendoodle. They are the second biggest Goldendoodle size. Medium Goldendoodles are one size smaller than Standard Goldendoodles. They are the tallest and heaviest Goldendoodle size. Teacup Goldendoodles are the lightest and Standard Goldendoodles are the heaviest. Teacup Goldendoodles weigh 7 to 10 pounds 3. Toy Goldendoodles weigh 10 and 25 pounds 4. Mini Goldendoodles weigh 15 and 35 pounds 6. Medium Goldendoodles weigh 35 to 50 pounds .Standard Goldendoodles weigh 50 to 90 pounds .If you find out the weight of the parents of your Goldendoodle you will get a good idea of how much your puppy will weigh as an adult. As a mixed breed, there can be a lot of variation in Goldendoodle weight so your dog may be slightly heavier or lighter than these ranges. There are no official weight ranges for Goldendoodle as they are a cross-breed.

But those first weeks of puppy development are very similar whatever the breed, and these landmarks are good general rules for any dog. Puppy development week by week, changes quickly. Newborn Puppies Newborn puppies are born at the end of nine weeks of pregnancy, with their eyes and ears tightly closed. They already have a fur coat but they cannot yet control their own body temperature. They are dependent on their mother or another heat source to keep them warm. Newborn puppies may cry if cold. But they do not have the strength to cry for long. Newborn Labrador puppies snuggle together to keep warm when their mother is away How Helpless are Newborn Pups? Although they rely on mom for a lot at this stage, newborn puppies are not completely helpless. They can use their front feet to drag themselves towards a heat source or their milk supply. This means their mom, not milk alternatives like cow or goat milk. Newborn pups have no teeth yet. But they can move their heads about to search for a nipple, and they can latch on and suck strongly. Their mother leaves them only to eat, drink and for bathroom purposes. While she is away, the puppies will crawl together to preserve their body heat, as you can see in the photo above. They may also crawl under a heat lamp source to keep warm. In every other respect newborn puppies are completely dependent on the care of their mother. Newborn pups have little control over the rear end of their bodies. The mother dog washes them and licks their bottoms to encourage elimination, licking up and swallowing anything they produce to keep her babies and their nest scrupulously clean. In fact, he may even double his birth weight! One week later and the puppies have doubled their birth weight. Changes are taking place under his eyelids to prepare them for opening. And usually begins during the second week of life. Ears open at this point too, so your puppy will begin to hear. The Labrador puppies in this picture are two weeks olds. Two weeks old and the puppies eyes are now open! You can see that their eyes are now open and the puppies are beginning to look a little more dog-like. The breeder will be handling the puppies more now. And most puppies are wormed for the first time at two weeks old. Most 3 week old puppies can stand and sit, and are beginning to totter about. They are also starting to develop their individuality. No longer are they just a row of identical little fat furry sausages! This little three week old puppy :- Can easily be distinguished from his brother: Teething and Further Development At 3 weeks old, this is also the point at which puppies start teething — cutting their first deciduous baby teeth. Obviously the teeth are appearing for a reason! Some breeders will start to offer the first tastes of solid food at this point. Especially if the litter is a large one and putting a strain on the mother dog. It is lovely to watch a litter of 3 week old puppies beginning to interact with their brothers and sisters. They are running, playing enthusiastically, and have started to wag their little tails. The puppies will start to show bowel control as they move away from the other puppies to defecate. And solid food is becoming a major part of their diet. These little pups are tucking into some puppy food. Four week old puppies having their dinner in the fresh air If the weather is warm enough, puppies will be spending some time outdoors now. Mealtimes are a messy process, so feeding puppies out in the yard can be a good idea. Breeder Involvement Some mother dogs will lose interest in cleaning up after their pups at this point or soon afterwards. And many puppies will be wormed again this week. Vocalizations are becoming stronger at this puppy development stage. The litter will greet their mother noisily when she returns to them, and try hard to follow her out of the whelping box whenever she leaves. The puppies themselves are now eating solid food several times a day and gradually being weaned of their dependency on her milk. Puppies will still suckle ravenously when their mother returns and she will now often feed them standing up and only for a short time. She will also be teaching the puppies not to bite too hard. So, they should be increasingly spending time with humans and learning to be familiar with the sounds and sights of a human family environment. Puppies being raised in kennels must be brought into a home environment regularly from now on to ensure they develop into confident, friendly dogs. Six weeks old and full of mischief Puppies Still Have a Lot to Learn at 6 Weeks In some countries, puppies are taken to their new homes at this age. But this is not a good idea, and can result in a puppy that has poor bite inhibition and is challenging to manage. The puppies are learning not to bite too hard from the reactions of their mother and siblings. Growth is not quite so fast now. But the puppies will still grow strongly for the next few months. Many puppies will be wormed again this week. All that remains is for plenty of great socialization experiences to be packed into this week, with final checks on health. Many breeders will arrange for each seven week old puppy to have a vet check this week. And though some vets advise against it, some puppies are also given their first vaccinations before they leave for their new homes. Some breeders will now have the puppies trained to pee and poop on puppy pads or newspaper. And some will have been whistling to the puppies at meal times to get them used to coming to a human signal. Potty training is now underway and puppy socialization plans are being made. At this point, many of you will be thinking about training your puppy too. The next four weeks are vital in puppy development stages. Your main job is socializing your puppy. This means taking him to lots of new places and exposing him to lots of new experiences. So, life will be starting to get back to normal. Most puppies in the U. In the U. So, not all puppies will get their vaccinations at the exact same age. Socializing your puppy is still the most important job for you at this age. But, you cannot put your puppy on the ground outside until they have received their final vaccination. So, make sure you know exactly when their final jab is. And carry on introducing them to as many new people, things, and experiences as possible throughout this puppy development stage. Some people can suffer from the puppy blues at this stage too, as your life has completely changed! But, that does not mean socialization can stop. Puppies who are isolated at this point will soon lose that friendly fearlessness. You have an important job now, building on what has been achieved so far, and introducing your puppy to the world at ground level. This part of his education can begin once his vaccination cover is complete. He should be fully immunised at around this point. But check with your vet for confirmation of the actual date. Three months also marks the point at which many puppies will drop down from four daily meals, to three. This can cause problems for some puppies because the portions are larger If your puppy gets an upset tummy when you make this change, just go back up to four meals again for a few days, and give smaller portions for a few days when you try again. But, many will need another month before they can cope without frequent bathroom breaks and the occasional accident. Your puppy will begin to lose his baby teeth. This can also be a time at which biting can be most challenging. And try not to worry, this stage will soon be over! A few will need another month or two to complete the process. Remember, no two puppies are the same. That puppy fluffiness will have gone. For many puppies, five months is an awkward, gangly time. A five month old puppy may have shed the last of his soft puppy lines and be looking quite skinny. By the end of this month most puppies will have finished teething but an urge to chew may continue for another few months in some breeds, Labradors included. Some female dogs will have their first season during this month. But, for many, it will be another three or four months before this happens. This is a major milestone for your puppy. He is now looking very much like an adult Labrador. Still a Puppy Because he looks quite grown up, people expect a lot of their 6 month old puppy. But inside, he is still very much a puppy. The beginnings of adolescence and with it an increasing independence of spirit can bring its challenges, but also a whole lot of fun. Here's what you need to know about taking care of your newborn pups after they are born. Approach the Puppies With Caution Although you may want to pet and hold the puppies constantly, it is important not to intervene too much in the first week or two of their lives, as they are very susceptible to disease, and it can be stressful for the mother and puppies. Use caution when approaching the puppies, as some mothers may show aggression to humans or other household pets if they perceive a threat. As the puppies get older and more active, your dog will want more and more time to get away and sleep, exercise, or socialize with members of the household. So give your dog space to get away from the puppies, but make sure that she is often returning to check on them. Provide A Warm Environment Puppies cannot regulate their body temperature until they are 3 to 4 weeks old. Therefore, for the first 4 weeks of their lives, you should provide a warm, clean box or bedding for the mother and puppies to share. To keep the puppies warm, position a heating lamp above it. Ensure there are unheated areas, as the puppies will need to move away from the heat source if they become too warm. Monitor the puppies' temperature. If puppies are too cold, they cannot process milk and it may curdle in their stomach. Do not use heating pads, as the puppies may be cold and stay on the heating pad too much. If it is too hot, it can cause burns. Start Socializing the Puppies If the mother dog allows it, you can get the puppies used to your presence. Socializing them early can help ensure that they fit nicely into a household. Puppies should initially be weighed twice a day for the first week or two, then daily. Puppies should never lose weight or even maintain weight—either of these is cause for supplementation and concern. If you notice that one of your puppies is smaller, not gaining weight, or has less energy than the others, consult your veterinarian. Puppies should not be taken away from their mother and sent to their new homes too quickly, as they learn important social rules and behavior from their mother and siblings. Puppies should not be separated from their mother if they are younger than 8 weeks old, and it may be illegal before this in many states. Waiting until they are 10 weeks old will give the maximum benefit of social interaction with their mother and littermates. Feeding and Weaning Newborn puppies should nurse at least every 2 hours for the first week or two of life. After this, they can stretch the feeding times to hours, as long as they are still gaining weight and doing well. Once the puppies are 3 to 4 weeks old, you can begin the weaning process by giving them access to puppy food. You can mix a high-quality commercial puppy food with water or canned puppy food to make it easier for them to eat. It is important that the food is softened at first. They should still have constant access to the mother, as she will continue to nurse them. Over the next few weeks, they will rely more and more on puppy food rather than nursing. Most dogs will wean their puppies by 5 to 6 weeks of age. Puppies have sharp teeth at this point, so nursing may be painful to the mother dog. Continue to be vigilant and monitor her for signs of mastitis. Contact Your Vet Just After the Puppies Are Born Contact your veterinarian to ask for their recommendation regarding when the puppies should first be examined. They may want to see them right away to evaluate for cleft palates , umbilical hernias , and other health concerns, or they may advise you to wait until they are a bit older. Most veterinarians recommend deworming at regular 2-week intervals starting at 2 weeks old. Lauren Jones graduated from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine in , after receiving her bachelor's degree.Help us make PetMD better Was this article helpful? We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. In this article, we will take a look at some of the essential questions about puppy nutrition. We will start with how you can tell if your puppy is getting the nutrition they need. Next, we will look at how often puppies need to eat, how much they need to eat, and what they should be eating for optimal nutrition. This article is for entertainment purposes only. If you have any health-related questions about your dogs or puppies please consult with your vet or animal nutritionist. While we assume that nature will take its course for puppies that are nursing and that they will get enough nutrients from their mother, this does not always happen. How do you know? If it is just one puppy in the litter, it will be noticeably smaller than the others. This means that they should have doubled in size within the first week. When fed from their mother, newborn puppies will eat around every two hours. The time between feedings will gradually increase, so it might be three hours between feedings at two weeks and three and a half hours at three weeks. They should not be left without food during the night and may need one or two nighttime feeds. By the time they are four to five weeks old, you can expect that they will be eating around every hours during the day, and they should continue to eat at night. They should not go more than five hours without food. Once your puppy gets to six to eight weeks old, they can start being weaned onto solid food and should be eating around four times a day. They can go up to eight hours without food during the night. It is better to give your puppy smaller meals more often rather than larger meals at longer intervals to help with digestion. Also, puppies have not yet developed the ability to manage their blood sugar levels, so they need regular feeding to keep their energy on an even level. That said, for the first four weeks, they will spend most of their time eating, sleeping, and pooping. It can be a good idea to massage their bellies after a meal to help with proper digestion. As puppies grow and move on to solid foods, you can further reduce the frequency at which they eat. Try and get them into a regular eating schedule as soon as possible, to give them security and to make bathroom needs and house training predictable. How often they should be fed depends mainly on the size of the breed, but there are some exceptions. Toy breeds should have meals a day until they are about four months old. This can be reduced to meals a day at six months until they are full-grown; then they only really need two meals a day. Small and medium breeds can move on to a lower-frequency feeding schedule when they are about four months old and can eat just twice a day for the rest of their lives. Larger breeds will need meals a day when they are about four months old, but they will continue to need this more frequent feeding to keep up with their energy use as adults. What Should Newborn Puppies Eat? They are not dissimilar from the formula that human babies receive, but are tweaked for puppy nutrition. Below are some of the best puppy formulas that you can get today. It is recommended to reconstitute the milk with one part formula and two parts water, and every tablespoon will provide .Shop All Cat Food Few things are more delightful than a litter of newborn puppies, but the prospect of caring for all of these brand new little lives can be daunting. But don't worry. Check out this guide to newborn puppy care to tell you what need to know to raise a healthy, happy litter. A Clean Environment Newborn puppies will spend their first few weeks in the box or pen in which they were born, so it's important to choose wisely when preparing for their arrival. The space should offer enough room for the mother to lie down and stretch out comfortably without crushing the puppies, and she should be able to come and go freely while keeping the puppies contained. It should also be easy to access so that you can change out the bedding each day. In these early days, Mom will clean up her pups' waste, but if it's a large litter she may need help keeping up. Around the end of the second week or the beginning of the third week, the puppies will open their eyes and become more active. Once they start to toddle about, you can move them to a larger pen with room to play, and bathroom cleanup will require more of your attention. Although the puppies will snuggle up with their mom and each other for warmth, it's best to use a heat lamp during their first month of life. The lamp should be placed high enough above the box to prevent any risk of burning the mother or her pups, and there should also be a cooler corner that the pups can crawl to if they get too warm. For the first five days, the temperature inside the pen should be kept at about 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. From days five through ten, gradually dial back the heat to 80 degrees, and then continue to reduce the heat little by little until it reaches 75 degrees by the end of their fourth week, suggests PetPlace. Nursing and Nutrition During their first few weeks, puppies rely exclusively on their mother for their nutritional needs. Although she may be less active during this time, nursing uses up a lot of the mother's energy and her daily caloric requirements will be higher than normal, says the AKC. To ensure both mother and puppies receive adequate nutrition throughout the nursing stage, the mother should be fed several servings of a quality puppy food throughout the day. Your veterinarian can recommend the type and amount of food to feed your nursing mother. It's important to keep an eye on the puppies' weight during this time. If you notice any of the puppies being underfed, you may need to keep an eye on them when it's time to nurse and make sure the smaller puppies latch onto the fullest nipples for feeding, says The Nest. Puppies who cry or whimper frequently may also be hungry and need more attention during feeding. If the smaller puppies still don't show signs of healthy growth or weight gain, talk to your vet. It might be necessary to take over and bottle-feed them. It's also important to watch the mother for signs of mastitis, says Wag! Signs of mastitis include red and swollen nipples and reluctance to nurse. The mother may even snap at the puppies when they try to eat. If you notice these signs, contact your vet right away. By the fourth or fifth week, the puppies will start getting their teeth and the weaning process will begin as the mother's milk production slows. Once you notice the puppies starting to sample Mom's food, it's time to provide them with their own dish of puppy food. Health Young puppies are susceptible to disease and infection, so you'll need to keep a close eye on them. Newborn puppy care should include regular inspections to watch for signs of infection or poor health. Report anything unusual such as vomiting, diarrhea or a puppy who won't stand or eat to your vet. Little puppies are also especially vulnerable to fleas and other parasites, says The Spruce Pets , so talk to your vet about appropriate parasite control. Although antibodies they receive from nursing will help protect them from illness in the early weeks, these antibodies wear off around six to eight weeks, which is when they will need to receive their first round of vaccinations. Make sure you and all family members thoroughly wash your hands before interacting with these puppies to help reduce the risk of getting them sick from any bacteria that might be lying in wait on your hands. Socialization By the fourth week the puppies are ready to begin socializing with humans and other dogs. Weeks four through twelve are a critical window during which puppies need to learn about the world they'll inhabit so they'll become well-adjusted, happy dogs, says The Spruce Pets. Poorly socialized puppies tend to grow into anxious dogs who may have behavioral problems, so whether you plan to keep the puppies or send them to good homes, it's important to cuddle and play with them, allow them to explore and play and expose them to as many new experiences as possible. Newborn puppy care entails a lot of work, but these first several weeks go by in a flash. If your puppies end up being adopted, you'll be saying goodbye to them in no time, an event that is often bittersweet. Enjoy the pups while you have them, and when it's time to let go, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you gave them the best possible beginning. Contributor Bio Jean Marie Bauhaus Jean Marie Bauhaus is a pet parent, pet blogger and novelist from Tulsa, Oklahoma, where she usually writes under the supervision of a lapful of furbabies.

These are dogs that are strong, intelligent, alert, courageous, energetic, and loyal. The breed excels as a guardian and these dogs can be trained to perform a range of important tasks. But most of all, this is a dog that protects the ones he or she loves and holds dear. Naming Advice When it comes to naming your German Shepherd, there are a variety of factors to keep in mind. Check out these super cute Pet ID Tags! Personality Finding the right name may not be immediately apparent, and sometimes it takes a while to decide which moniker fits your pup best. Wait for his or her personality to fully emerge before choosing the ideal name. Spend a little time with your new friend and the perfect name will come. Name Length A good rule of thumb is to keep the number of syllables in the dog's name to one or two at most. Three is acceptable but the shorter the name, the easier it is for your dog to hear and respond to commands. Clear communication is imperative for German Shepherds, particularly during training. Avoid Confusion Some names may sound like commands and this will only serve to confuse your pup. If you name your German Shepherd something that sounds identical to those and other commands, obedience is going to be an uphill battle for both you and your pet. Perhaps one of these names will fit your pet best, or maybe these names will help you think of the best possible name for your particular pup. German Shepherds have distinct personality traits and all of these names can reflect those attributes every time you call his or her name. Choosing the right name for your male German Shepherd is a fascinating endeavor. While contemplating, consider the defining attributes of the breed — their unparalleled intelligence, formidable strength, and remarkable adaptability. A Brainstorming Activity If you find yourself struggling to land on the perfect name, why not try a little observation? Spend some quality time with your new German Shepherd puppy or rescue dog, and simply watch them. Note down every detail, from the color of their coat to their distinct walking style, and any observable personality traits. Not only will this activity foster an immediate bond with your new puppy, but it will also serve as a rich source of naming inspiration! Among the thousands of potential names, certain ones stand out as fitting for male German Shepherds. As a breed known for their bravery, intelligence, and capability, they deserve a name that reflects their stature. Rin Tin Tin was a star of the silver screen, featuring in 26 Warner Brothers films from the early 20th century until his death in .Buddy, another prominent name, belonged to the first seeing eye dog owned and trained by Frank Morris.

This is a family owned and operated business of fifty years, twenty of which I have run it alone. We are proud of our reputation and look forward to many more years of doing what we love! All of our breeding dogs have been genetically tested. Genetic testing in dogs gives us insight to conditions like Muscular Dystrophy, which sometimes is found in Golden Retrievers or Glaucoma, which is found in poodles. Having this insight and knowledge allows us to deter breeding, if the female or male shows this in their genetic panel. Then, when we breed the clear panel parents, the puppies are cleared under the parents. Our underlying goal is to improve the breed. Breeding is not about the numbers for Sugarshack Doodles! Raising puppies is a full-time job. People many times do not realize the financial cost of having a litter of puppies. Genetic screening, health tests before breeding, extra food, supplies, medical care involved in whelping a litter adds up quickly. It is important to us to listen to our buyers and make sure that the dog we have is a correct fit for the buyer. We know our genetics! We have male and female dogs on site and breed only to our own dogs. We do not stud out our males. We retire our females at about four or five years and find them guardian homes; mostly to our friends and family. Our pups have a life expectance of approximately years. Many of our dogs are currently with us and are 18 years old. A "fair" result on a hip will disqualify a dog from entering into our breeding program. We have our dogs in our home and in our own backyard of seven acres. We do not go to dog parks or walk in unknown territory. Our puppies are sold to buyers with full disclosures and are up to date on shots and wormings. After the pups go home at weeks of age, we still offer at cost immunizations and wormings should this be needed. Before they leave, we review all of their vaccinations and immunizations and offer microchipping. We do ask that your dog be spayed or neutered at seven to nine months of age and that the females do not go through a heat cycle. We ask you sign a no-breed contract. Many of us are groomers and will provide grooming services to you after you take your puppy home. Our fees are reasonable, and they are donated to local charities such as American Cancer Society, Food Pantries in the area and Animal Shelters! We try to make the transition of bringing a new little pet into your home an easy one. We go through all of the items that we think you will need and then of course, if there are any extra items we will recommend those as well. The puppy package includes a blanket with the scent of mom. We are always available for questions, no matter which location you purchase your puppy from. There is an out of state delivery fee which ranges between - .We do not hire flight nannies or trust a car delivery service with our puppies, this is our choice. We deliver our puppies to the airport closest to you and even to your home, if requested! We will meet you at Tampa or Orlando Airports. We were present during the birthing process and will stand right by our puppies until they are in your loving arms. F1b Goldendoodle puppies What size and type of doodle will fit your style? Doodles in General Doodles come in many sizes and generations! In a few sentences there is the first generation, which is the standard golden retriever and poodle This will produce the F1, or first generation. This F1 bred back to a poodle will give you an F1b. If you breed an F1 to an F1, you will get a second generation. A second generation, F2, bred back to poodle will give you an F2b. A multigenerational doodle is one that has been bred Goldendoodle to Goldendoodle for more than three generations. This, we call an F3. Sizes Sugarshack Doodles breeds micro mini, mini and petite, as well as small standard doodles. We breed doodles that are 10 pounds and under, , and then you will see our 40 pound pups and of course, we do have an over 40 size, generally under 55 pounds. We breed double doodles and this includes our sheepadoodles. Our sheepadoodles are minis, this is pounds. Coat types It is very important to know that dog coats vary on doodles, to study the genetics of each dog and know what your end result will be. People that are looking for an exceptionally curly doodle need to know that it is probably an F1bb or three parts poodle. As a breeder, I use my knowledge as well as Embark and other genetic results when making the decision of which male to use. A good breeder will not only get the testing done on their dogs, but be able to understand and utilize this information. I personally prefer the wavy coats and not the excessive curl. Therefore, I breed for a wavy coat to a minimal curl. Personalities Personality varies from dog to dog. If we see any abnormal or minimally aggressive personalities in our dogs, they are not eligible for our breeding program. This is an unacceptable trait and typically not only is the pup disqualified, but the parents are as well. Even though the parents may not have ever exhibited aggression, that fact that this trait was dominant in the puppies is indicative that both parents carried recessive genes for this trait to be dominant in the puppy. Although we have never seen this in our breeding program, it is something that should be discussed and disclosed. I do not believe that an aggressive pup should be sold. Our puppies are started out on early neurological stimulation ENS from birth until the time they are ready to go home. A lot of one on one time is spent on our puppies, including puppy pad training, crate training, puppy bed training all during a time during which mom is teaching them independence from nursing and encouraging them to eat dry dog food. Some of our Doodles Stormy is a multigenerational goldendoodle with a gorgeous fleece coat. She has a beautiful loose curl. We bred Stormy to Yogi and she delivered 8 pups on July 29, , .These puppies will be pounds at maturity. Lola is a 23 pound tuxedo red Goldendoodle, who we bred to Yogi, our English mini Goldendoodle of 22 pounds. These will not exceed the 25 pound mark. This pair makes gorgeous pups, with dark deep colors that do not fade! Lola delivered 8 pups July,24, with a go home date for her puppies September 15, 16 and 17 of .Gloria is 25 pounds and we bred her to Tucker, again to obtain that mini Goldendoodle. Gloria will deliver puppies in early September, with a go home date of November, .She is a gorgeous dark red parti, whose parents both carry red. Sandy K is a sheepadoodle that is black and white, with a few strands of gray and hazel colored eyes. He is 60 pounds. Since, hereditary issues run in OES and poodles, he went through a series of tests, eye examinations and hips which were sent off to OFA for a grade. His tests, Embark, genetic panels, eyes and hips are all excellent. She is about 35 pounds, her coat is gorgeous gray and white. Again, with OES and poodles carrying and prone to health issues, she was fully tested and is an excellent healthy sheepadoodle. She is a beauty with her stunning personality, so loving and tender. Randi is a mommy-dog to four! Scooter is a 12 pound miniature goldendodle. Both of her parents were multigenerational goldendoodles. She is fun loving and enjoys the active lifestyle. Always up for a good game of tug -o- war with another dog, no matter what size, even Sandy K. She is the life of the party and always looks like she is smiling. Scooter has a beautiful coat of wavy curls. What does your puppy come home with? We automatically administer three de-worming doses. How do the puppies get worms, you may ask. Sometimes the mommy dog will have worms from being outside and pass the worms in utero or through her milk. So, therefore we worm both mom and pups three times. We give their first vaccine, at six weeks of age. We offer, if you live locally, to give the second and third shots as well, and charge what we pay for the injection. Microchipping is done as a courtesy to you, upon your request, at a minimal cost. Your puppy can be scanned, and your information will pop up on a police officers scanner, or in a veterinarian office showing the information which you have registered. We provide you with NuVet. It is very important that you continue this probiotic for your puppy and their lifetime! We send you a link for their food, which gives you ample time to purchase this food and to be prepared for their homecoming! Our puppies are family raised and socialized with our young children. Goldendoodles are a great pick for a household with children. They tend to tolerate the roudyness of kids pretty well. My adult male, Max, is so gentle that even our toddler has no problem walking him around on a leash. Our children love how playful our doodles are. They spend lots of time playing fetch, or soccer with them. Our middle child loves to lay with, or even on our parent doodles, and they are just as happy with it. In fact, the reason I chose to adopt goldendoodles into our home was because of the children. Their gentle nature made them an ideal choice, along with their tolerance, activity level, intellegence and trainability, and of course their low shed trait was a big one for us. They are also very loyal; they will follow you around all day. As far as protection, they will alert you if a stranger is approaching the house. They will walk or run with you for hours if you need a running partner. Anyway, that's why we love our goldendoodles. We think they make excellent family pets. He is a little past 2 and has been awesome with our girls, is a great runner and a very good wat.He has been a great addition to our family. He loves his chew toys, bath time, and waiting for the kids to.If you are looking to adopt a puppy you are in the right place. We are located just outside of Middletown OH. Our dogs are raised inside 2 homes. Ours and my Parents. There are lots of children and friendly company that they are exposed to in both homes. They are well socialized and very family friendly! You'll find the Puppy information Here on the home page. Photos of the pups and their parents on the Photos Tab. If you are interested in reserving one of our puppies or have any questions you can email me directly at sugardoodles outlook. We can accept deposits on any current or upcoming litters that are listed. Current litters Sweetpea and Hugo have a litter of miniature goldendoodle pups that were born on March 30, .Estimated adult size lbs. Colors are red, and apricot with accents. These puppies will be ready to go home when 8 weeks old around May 25th. Check out their pictures on the photos tab Scroll to very bottom. Dowd "Pink Collar" red female - Sold, D. Shepherd "Blue Collar" apricot male - Sold , D. Shepherd "Purple Collar" apricot female -Sold, K. Marks "Green Collar" apricot male - Sold, L. Flannery "Red Collar" apricot male -Sold, K. Mathews "Black Collar" apricot male -Sold K. This litter are miniatures to medium in size and are estimated to weigh between 20 - 40lbs when grown. This is Piper's first litter, photos of this litter can be viewed on the photos page. Davis "Purple Collar" gold female -Sold S. The first picks in every litter may be held for possible additions to our own breeding stock as listed. This will be indicated on the reserved list for that litter ex. First Pick - reserved Breeder. If we decide not to use our first pick for a particular litter, everyone else on the list will move up one pick spot. Future Planned Litters for These are our current projections for future pairings, or already paired breedings. The stud listed for projected future pairings could possibly be changed to any of our studs, wherever needed. The actual stud used and more precise estimated due dates will be posted after the breedings take place. Deposits, Payments and Delivery Deposits are non refundable, but is transferable to another litter if need be. Early Deposits: I can take early deposits for upcoming litters, and litters under 5 weeks of age. A deposit will hold your picking order spot. Picks will be scheduled to be made for around 5 weeks of age, when the pups are active and ready to engage with people outside of our family. Picks can be made in person or by photo. They will be made in the order the deposits are received. Reserving a picking spot does not guarantee a specific gender or color. Deposit is non refundable, but is transferable to another litter, if need be. If in the event there are not enough puppies in the litter you have reserved to meet your picking order spot, or a breeding did not take, then your deposit will be transferred to the next litter of your choice. Deposits made after the week picks have been done, will be for a specific available pup of your choice. Price is Subject to change some per litter, and is dependent upon a variety of factors. Price will be listed for that litter under litter description. I do not ship puppies unaccompanied, however many airlines are allowing travelers to bring their puppy on the plane as a carry-on. With such arrangements made, I can deliver to the airport for a travel fee, for you to pick up in person. Our Goldendoodles. Feeding Instructions Goldendoodle Kennels T 1. Their stomachs are too small to hold enough food at a single meal to sustain the proper level of nutrition for their full growth and proper development. Puppy food should be fed for the first year. I currently feed Natura Innova Evo dry kibble and canned food. Innova Evo is grain-free, so it was not affected by the expansive pet food recall of .Good quality pet foods are not usually available at the supermarket. There are a wide variety of premium pet foods available from pet or feed stores, both canned and dry, any of which provide a fully nutritious and balanced diet without the need of added mineral or vitamin supplements or specialized dietary products and additives. We feed Eukanuba Small Breed Puppy kibble as the kibble size is the smallest on the market. Again, the amounts will vary a little depending on the age, appetite and size of the dog. Feed this mixture in a flat dish as it allows the dog to eat without getting food in their whiskers and facial hair — encouraging the naturally clean nature of the Maltese. It is best to feed exactly what he has eating. If you desire to change his diet, do so gradually by mixing the new diet with the one his system is already accustomed to. Gradually, over a one 1 month period, increase the new diet while phasing out the old. Doing this will eliminate digestive changes, which can cause diarrhea or constipation. Table scraps should not be offered. Do not give them fresh milk as milk usually causes diarrhea. Older puppies and dogs do not need milk. Also, do not feed raw egg whites. Cottage cheese and scrambled eggs may be given on occasion. Be careful regarding the size of the kibble you give the puppy. Ask your veterinarian to demonstrate what to do if they are choking. Filtered or distilled water is best. Wash the bowl and change their water daily. It is very important that the puppy gets as much water as they want. Therefore, it is best not to solely use a water bottle as it can limit their water intak. Small breed puppies must be monitored and watched carefully to make sure that they are eating and getting enough rest. Young, small breed puppies can develop a low blood sugar condition due to overexcitement, overexertion, or injury and can very, very quickly become unconscious and even die without immediate treatment! If the puppy does not eat, is stressed by too much excitement, handling, or new experiences, it may result in a hypoglycemic low blood sugar attack. Prevention and treatment is simple. If it is not treated, it continues into coma and ultimately death! A high calorie supplement such as Nutra-Cal or Nutra-Stat can also be given in as a preventative or in the early stages of hypoglycemia. In addition, Gator-Aid given slowly into the side of the mouth with a syringe will also help. Once they seem to be recovering in response to the treatment of honey or corn syrup, you should also prepare a mixture of the following: 2 Tbs. Gerber Baby Rice Cereal, 2 tsp. Gerber Strained Chicken Meat, 1 tsp. Add water to make it the consistency of pudding. Fill a large syringe or a baby medicine dropper with mixture and give it to the puppy by squeezing the mixture either on the tongue or between the cheek and gum. Give the puppy a chance to swallow and then give them more. Give approximately 15 cc and repeat every 4 hours. This will need to be done until they feel better and start to eat on their own. The reason for this is that once a puppy has had a serious drop in blood sugar, it can occur again with even less stress and the veterinarian can help prevent this. Be very vigilant while the puppy is still young up to 6 months of age, depending upon their size! Young, small breed puppies tire very easily and quickly, especially if they are allowed to romp freely about the house or are handled excessively. They need their rest just like an infant. Should a puppy exhibit signs of illness such as vomiting, diarrhea, runny eyes or nose, excessive panting or whining, dizziness, lethargy, etc. It does not take long for a puppy to become dehydrated. Diarrhea, try cc Pepto Bismol or Kaopectate. I use a syringe, without the needle, to measure and dispense medications. Check daily for stuck stools as this can cause blockage disallowing the dog to eliminate. Keep the hair trimmed around the rectum to help this situation. This can cause serious problems and be very painful for the dog. Take them to the veterinarian until they have received the complete series of puppy shots. Do not let the veterinarian give more than one shot per visit. These small dogs are given the same amount of serum as the large breeds and too much at once can cause problems. It is important for their health that they have the proper protection. DO NOT put your puppy on the ground in public areas until their have received their full series of puppy shots. Disease can kill a small dog five 5 times faster than a large dog. Large dogs can live with worms in their stomach longer because they have more blood. A small dog has less than a pint or two of blood in their entire body. Have a veterinarian check their teeth when the puppy is about six 6 months old. Do not allow small children to handle or hold the puppy without close supervision. They are very wiggly making them difficult to hold onto and they can quickly leap from your arms. Mini Goldendoodle puppies can be injured quite easily even in a fall of only a couple of feet, especially onto a hard surface. Puppies are delicate, small-boned dogs despite their boisterous nature and fearless personalities. As puppies mature, they will learn what they can and cannot do. Until then, you must protect them from themselves. Be very careful and selective with the toys your puppy plays with. Rawhide toys are fine occasionally, but throw them away after they become too small. You must monitor your puppy whenever it plays with a latex toy that has an exposed squeaker as they can chock on the squeaker if they are able to remove it. You may choose to remove the squeakers yourself. Some infant toys are perfect. Make sure your house has been puppy-proofed. Clean-up anything they can pick-up and chew. As tiny as they are, small objects will look large to them. Make sure they do not get in the habit of chewing electrical cords as this can be deadly. If you see them chewing, immediately check it out to see what it is they are chewing. They are very easy and tempting for someone to steal. More importantly, large dogs can kill them in an instant. Poisonous frogs, snakes, and spiders have also been known to kill them and coyotes and hawks have been known to carry them off. If you choose to sleep with your puppy, be extremely careful not to accidentally and unknowingly lie on top of them and possibly suffocate them or allow them to fall or jump off of the bed. We encourage you to keep in touch and let us know how everything is going. After all, your new family member was a member of our family first and always. We would appreciate a picture of your puppy as it matures. We are proud of all of our family members. Your help is essential in providing us with enough data to make this possible.