american bulldog puppies for sale new york
View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Conway Arkansas and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!
Listed below are answers to the most common questions I receive as you are preparing to take your puppy home: 1. What is my puppy eating? We are feeding your puppy PawTree. They have a multitude of other flavors you can try out after your puppy comes home too. You can buy this food by clicking the PawTree picture at the bottom of any page on our website. You can find out more information at www. We also encourage you to set your order to their EZship so you never run out. They also offer personalized food by filling out a pet profile so we encourage all families to head over to fill out their pet profile for personalized food plan as well as personalized bags of dog food when they arrive. How many times per day should my puppy be fed? We feed puppies, weeks old 3 x per day. We try to keep them on a schedule such as: a. Once the puppy reaches 12 weeks, we cut them back to eating 2 x per day, eliminating the noon feeding. Increase the amount you feed based on the recommendations you will find on the dog food bag as suggested by weight of the puppy. We do not recommend free feeding — give your puppy about 20 minutes to eat, then pick it up and put it away. Water should be provided at all times, except during the night. Wet the food for about 30 minutes prior to giving it to the puppy so it softens to aid in digestion. However, if you see loose stools it is almost assuredly overfeeding so back it off until the stool is firm and then slowly add back in. When can I start training my puppy? We like to see training start as soon as you pick up your puppy from my home, or your puppy arrives via car or airplane. We recommend transporting your puppy home in a crate that is lined with a bath towel. Feeding time is a fantastic opportunity to train as you can spend a few minutes several times per day with teaching the basic commands of sit, stay and come. We provide a helpful training booklet with detailed information on training on our Puppy Tips page. What size crate should I buy for my puppy? Most puppies that will mature to a medium size will need a large crate once they have reached maturity. Plastic crates are an option as well. If you have any questions please ask us. What type of collar and leash do I need and what size is best for my puppy? We like to buy the less expensive, adjustable-type of collars and a nylon leash. We do not care for the expandable leashes that allow the puppy to walk way out in front or way off to the side of you. The smallest setting for the collar would be about 8 inches and expanding out from there. We use small carabiners to attach the stretched chain between the collar and the leash. This will prevent your puppy from chewing your new leash. If you are reserving a small size pup then I would suggest an XS collar. Another option while they are very young is a slip leash style. Some families like to train in harnesses. This is also a tool you can use. Sizes will vary from company to company, but most go off of weight. Ask us the estimated weight of your future puppy at the time they will go home so you will have a rough idea of what to purchase. It is never a bad idea to weight to buy until you can size your puppy in person though as each harness will fit differently. You can play the radio softly if your puppy is in a different room from you as this is how they were raised with us. You have to find a system that works for you. However, keeping consistent for the first few nights will build a sleep pattern in your dog you will enjoy for its entire life. How many times per night will my puppy need to go out to go potty? We suggest you feed your puppy dinner no later than p. Make sure that you see puppy go potty and poop before putting him to bed for the night. If your bedtime is p. Then only if puppy is whining, let him out very methodically to potty no playing and put him right back to bed. How many times per day should my puppy need to go potty? Puppies will always go potty right away after they wake up and after they eat. If you take puppy out right after eating, see him go potty, then allow about 30 minutes of some free time in your home before making his world small using a temporary fence or leash. On average they can typically hold their bladders for 2-hours, but every puppy will react differently to stimuli in your home. Should my puppy have contact with other vaccinated dogs? We like to make sure other dogs have not only been vaccinated, but are also free of parasites. Worms of all sorts can live in feces and it just take a quick second for your puppy to ingest enough to get a parasite. This product should be alternated every 6 months. There are countless natural remedies as well as chemical based options you can find at your vet. We always prefer natural options first, but in some cases the chemical based products are needed. Check with your vet or trainer for their recommendations in your area. We strongly suggest topical or collar options only. How often should I give my puppy a bath and what should I use? We do not bathe our puppies unless they are dirty and we use baby shampoo or something gentle. We usually suggest people decide what they like in the look of their Labradoodle. Do you like the longer, shaggy look, or do you like the shorter, more manicured coat? If you leave the coat longer, you will need to keep it combed out and mat free. Do you have recommendations for where to stay when we pick up our puppy? We are located only 20 mins from Lebanon, Oregon. There are numerous hotel options in Albany, Springfield, or Eugene that you can explore. Dog owners often get bombarded with endless choices as well as countless adverts from the dog food companies, who all claim that theirs is the best. When it comes to dog food, the simple answer is no one food is best for all dogs. But the question is: which diet is the best for your Labradoodle? Luckily, there are many different options when it comes to dog food. The most popular manufactured foods include a complete diet dry , with or without a biscuit mixer and semi-moist. Some dog foods contain only natural ingredients. Then there is the option of feeding your dog a home-made diet. Some owners swear by a raw diet while others feed their Labradoodles vegetarian food. Within the manufactured options, there are many different qualities of food. Usually, you get what you pay for. Expensive ones are more likely to provide better nutrition for your doodle in terms of minerals, nutrients, and high-quality meat, whereas the cheap ones will most likely contain a lot of grain. Dried food also called kibble in the USA tend to be less expensive than other dog foods. They have improved a lot over the last few years, and some of the more expensive ones are now an excellent choice for a healthy, complete diet. Dried foods also contain the least fat and the most preservatives. Often semi-moist foods contain a lot of sugar and artificial substances, which is why some dogs seem to love them. Choosing the right food for your Labradoodle is very important. The diet influences his health, coat, and even temperament. It can have an effect on his health, coat , skin, energy levels, and temperament. There are several different types of food that you can feed your labradoodle — dry, semi-moist, canned, frozen, or freeze-dried are just some of the options. You can also feed him a home-made or raw diet. Many owners of labradoodle with allergies or skin conditions are now considering this option. Dry Dog Food for Labradoodles Dry food is a popular choice for Labradoodles, especially for large dogs who get through a lot of food. It is also less expensive than other dog foods. It is worth paying for a high-quality dry food as cheaper ones may contain a lot of cereal. It also means that you have to feed larger quantities to ensure your dog gets sufficient nutrients. Canned Dog Food for Labradoodles Canned food is another popular choice. Dogs also love them. They love the taste, and it generally comes in a variety of flavors. Canned food is often great mixed with dry kibble. If your labradoodle has lost interest in food and on a dry food diet, then you can add a small amount of canned food. Canned food tends to be more expensive than dried food. Many owners do not like the mess that it makes. If you store a part-opened tin in the fridge, then it can have an overpowering smell when you open the fridge door. Semi-Moist Dog Food for Labradoodles These are the commercial dog foods shaped like pork chops, salamis, burgers, or other meaty foods. They are the least nutritional of all dog foods. They are full of sugars, artificial flavorings, and coloring. You may give your doodle one as an occasional treat, but they do not provide the nutrition that your labradoodle needs. Freeze-Dried Dog Food for Labradoodles The frozen food manufacturers often make this for dog owners who like the convenience of it. You can store them for six months to a year. They do it to make sure that their pets are getting the right nutrition they need. Feeding your doodle a home-cooked diet can be time consuming and expensive. The tricky part is sticking to it once you have started with the best intentions. Raw food for Labradoodles If your doodle is not doing well on commercially prepared dog food then you might need to consider a raw diet. There is evidence that they are becoming increasingly popular among the Labradoodle owners. Raw food diets emulate the way dogs ate before the existence of commercial dog foods. After all, dry, canned, or other styles of cooked food for dogs were mainly created as a means of convenience. However, raw diets are not without controversy. Supporters of the raw food diet argue that a carefully planned raw diet gives the dog numerous health benefits, including a healthier coat, more energy, cleaner teeth, and get rid of bad breath and doggy odor. But the critics say that the risks of nutritional imbalance, intestinal problems, and food-borne illness caused by handling and feeding raw meat outweigh any benefits. Scientifically, the jury is still out. This is one of the most frequent questions that all the Labradoodle owners ask. But there is no easy answer. The correct amount of food for your labradoodle depends on several factors such as: Breed. The difficult part is deciding which one will have the greatest positive impact on their well-being. The following are some of the top options for dog foods for your Labradoodle: Dry Food: Due to its affordability and accessibility, dry dog food is a preferred option for Labradoodles. The nutrients in high-quality dry food are appropriate for a different life stage of your Labradoodle. Dry food has the greatest shelf life when compared to other types of dog foods. Wet Food: Wet food or canned food is another option for owners. Labradoodles enjoy the variety of flavors in canned food that come in interesting shapes like other meaty foods. Owners may combine wet food with dried food because wet food alone is typically more expensive than dry food. While it can be costly, doing so guarantees that their pups receive high-quality food. If you only give the same food to your Labradoodles, they could develop picky eating habits. Hence, it makes sense to follow the advice of the majority of veterinarians to combine kibble and wet food with a ratio of 20 to .Make sure the food you choose is sustainable and highly recommended by experts. Ensure that it will suit your needs, those of your dog, your financial situation, and your way of life. The average price of a Labradoodle is already costly. Hence, it is important to choose the kind of diet that will also suit your budget. Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Labradoodle Dog owners must be aware of the foods that can be harmful, poisonous, or trigger an allergic reaction in their Labradoodles. The following is a list of some harmful or poisonous foods that you must never give your pet Labradoodle: Alcohol: There is no enzyme that can digest alcohol in Labradoodles. Hypoglycemia , metabolic acidosis , respiratory difficulties, or central nervous system CNS impairment could result from ingestion. Avocado: Avocados contain the fungicidal toxin persin , which has been linked to the death of many dog breeds, including Labradoodles. It can cause vomiting, loose stool, and heart damage when taken in large doses. Chocolate: The major alkaloid in cocoa and chocolates, theobromine , cannot be broken down by an enzyme found in the stomachs of Labradoodles. As a result, even small quantities of chocolate can cause toxicity. Additionally, they could become uncontrollable, have convulsions, throw up, and have diarrhea. Grapes and raisins: As a result of the tartaric acid found in grapes and raisins, Labradoodles experience diarrhea , vomiting, dehydration , and kidney failure. Unfortunately, even one full grape can cause fatal injuries and irreversible harm to Labradoodles. Onion, garlic, leeks, and chives: All of these vegetables contain N-propyl disulfide , which robs red blood cells of their ability to carry oxygen. Consuming these veggies over time may cause hemolytic anemia. It is frequently present in toothpaste, gum, candies, and syrups. Listed below are foods that may seem harmless but are actually hazardous for Labradoodles: Cooked bones: Cooked bones are prone to shatter into shards. They can hurt your Labradoodle as well as obstruct its mouth, throat, and stomach. High-sugar foods: Your Labradoodle is more likely to develop health issues, including diabetes, obesity, and teeth damage, if it consumes too much sugar from other dog foods. Avoid cheap dog food, which usually contains too much salt. Consuming too much salt can result in seizures, renal failure, diarrhea, and vomiting. If ignored, this results in gastrointestinal blockage and death. Bring your Labradoodle to the nearest veterinary clinic immediately if you think they have accidentally ingested any of the aforementioned foods. A smart technique to make sure that their nutritional demands are being satisfied is to switch to a new food. If you want to gradually introduce a new food to your Labradoodle pup, make sure to introduce it in little amounts every day. The timeline provided below will help you introduce a new food to your Labradoodle: Days. As they grow you will move from four meals per day at 8 weeks old, to just one or two in adulthood. And you will want to use as much of their daily kibble as you can in training. Helping to strengthen the bond between you, as well as to teaching them which behaviors you want to see in your home. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy When it comes to feeding your new Labradoodle puppy there are plenty of options to choose between and a number of things to consider. Puppies grow up fast. The first thing to keep in mind is that puppies have different dietary needs to adult dogs. Getting too much of some nutrients, and not enough of others can lead to developmental problems. Growing pups digest food and absorb nutrients differently than adult dogs too. Their gastrointestinal system also works much faster than that of an adult dog. Puppy Nutrient Requirements Puppies need more calories than adult dogs, relative to their size. In fact, they need about twice as many calories in relation to their body weight compared to that of a full grown Labradoodle. Compared to mature dogs, puppies also need: more protein to support growing muscle more fat to fuel growth and a different mineral balance to aid in the rapid development of their bones. For example, one study showed that puppies fed a low phosphorus diet suffer from impaired appetite and growth, diminished skin and fur quality, and a disturbed musculoskeletal system. Too much calcium can also negatively affect bone development, by accelerating it. This is a serious joint condition that leads to painful arthritis and lameness. The smaller and younger your puppy is, the more often they need to eat, since their stomachs are too small for big portions. Labradoodle puppies that are 4 months or younger should have their food split into 4 meals a day. When they reach 4 and 6 months old this can be reduced to 3 meals. Knowing how much to feed your Labradoodle puppy can be tricky. So the feeding charts on the packaging are a good place to start. This basic pet calorie calculator can help determine how many calories a puppy needs. Overfeeding Labradoodle Puppies Canine obesity is a big problem for many dogs and the Labradoodle is no exception. Some Labrador Retrievers are known to have a genetic mutation that causes them to have an insatiable appetite. But there are plenty of genetically normal dogs who will always want more food. If your puppy is constantly hungry you can try giving him smaller, more frequent meals. In fact, for training purposes we recommend using as much of each of the meals rations as you can as training treats between meals. These days there are a lot of brands vying for space in the dog food market. So deciding what to feed your Labradoodle puppy might be the most difficult question of them all. Puppies that are 8 to 12 weeks old should continue eating the same food they were eating at the breeders. If you want to change their food, wait until they are fully settled at home. Then transition gradually to a different diet to avoid causing an upset tummy. You can do it over the course of a week, like this: Feed 1 part new food to 3 parts old food on the first two days. Equal parts old food and new food on days three and four. And three parts new food to one part old food for two more days after that. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Dry Food Most puppy parents choose one of the many commercial dry puppy foods available. There are many reasons why these diets also known as kibbles are so popular. They are.
We have answers. For new and inexperienced dog owners, San Jose Bulldog puppies for sale are a great choice. They're surprisingly smart dogs and are very docile and easy-going, so they'll quickly learn the rules of the home and won't cause any trouble. They're not big learners of complex tricks, but you can teach them basic commands with ease. Are Bulldogs good family dogs? More and more families are looking for their own San Jose Bulldog for sale thanks to this breed's long list of family-friendly qualities. For starters, they get on great with kids and really enjoy protecting and playing with little ones. They're also low-maintenance and low-energy, ideal for busy families, and they're very loyal and loving too. How much do Bulldog puppies cost? One of the first questions people ask about a Bulldog for sale San Jose is how much does it cost. Well, the truth of the matter is that prices of Bulldog pups can vary quite a lot from one breeder to the next, and many Bulldog breeders in San Jose have their own pricing systems in place depending on their own experience and reputation too. Here at Uptown, we aim to help you find a dog that fits your budget. How do you screen breeders selling Bulldog puppies? There are lots of great quality Bulldog breeders San Jose out there, but there are plenty of lower quality breeders too. This allows our users to search for Bulldogs for sale in San Jose with total peace of mind. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other networks with Bulldogs for sale? If you head online and start searching for a San Jose Bulldog puppy for sale, you'll get a lot of results, but we want to be your number one choice. Other networks don't have any issues working with puppy mills and backyard breeders, and some don't even check to see if scammers are using their sites. We're different. We evaluate every single breeder or business and only approve those that are professional, experienced, ethical, and honest. What's the deal with puppy mills? If you're looking for a Bulldog San Jose, a puppy mill is a place you'll want to avoid. They're basically like dog factories where pups are produced in large quantities and sold off cheaply and quickly to make way for the next batch. Those low prices might sound tempting, but puppy mill Bulldog puppies for sale San Jose often suffer major health issues and require lots of veterinary treatment that you'll have to pay for if you buy one. What about backyard breeders? Backyard breeders are also a serious concern for anyone looking for Bulldog puppies San Jose. As the name implies, these are people who breed pups in their own backyards or amateur facilities, with proper professional care. A Bulldog for sale San Jose from a backyard breeder will often have health or behavioral issues for the owner to deal with, resulting in stress, disappointment, and big vet bills too. How big are Bulldogs? The Bulldog is a medium-sized breed. Their average height is about 12 to 15 inches, and females are usually slightly smaller than the males. They tend to weigh between 40 and 50 lbs. In spite of their size, Bulldog puppies in San Jose are a fine choice for those living in small homes as they don't need big backyards or lots of space to run around. Are Bulldogs a good choice for apartments? It's important to choose a dog that matches your home. Big dogs tend to do better in bigger homes with large backyards, while smaller dogs can cope nicely in littler places. A Bulldog for sale in San Jose can be a great choice for apartments. Even though they're a little bigger than other breeds, they have very low energy levels so don't need lots of space or exercise to be content. Just be sure to take them for walks so they don't sit around all day gaining weight. Are there any Bulldog puppies for sale right now? It's highly likely! The Bulldog is a very popular breed, after all, and there are many great breeders and businesses out there with San Jose Bulldogs for sale. You can check out the currently available and upcoming litters for more information and then get in touch with the breeders and businesses to learn more about each pup. Buy Now French bulldog Elsa is a young French bulldog. She has cream colored coat with white tones. She is playful, potty trained, and loves to eat. She is vaccinated with paperwork of her breed. Her coat is healthy and short in length. She will stay while waiting for food until you say EAT! Her favorite snack is watermelon. She is great at dog parks and the cutest young frenchie. If you are interested in this little guy and girls feel free to message me thank you. She is a fluffy carrier. She is super playful and loving. Great with kids. She does like to nibble on toes…. .Good with her sisters. She will be fully vaccinated, deworm. If you live locally I will lifetime do her vaccination and deworm. Full health guarantee. Great structure. Great hips. Beautiful eyes. She will be ready in a couple weeks for her new furever home. View Detail Beautiful Frenchies! Hello, I'm rehoming 3 frenchies. Will include first round of vaccinations, and AKC registration. Feel free to reach out to me for any other questions. Males and females available! All my parents and puppies are health tested and DNA tested they come with full AKC registration paid microchip and up-to-date vaccinations and deworming. Give me a call today. Thank you. Ready to go to a sweet loving home. I am a7 month old male puppy with a brindle coat. I am a really happy, playful, very lovable boy! I love cuddling, belly rubs and being carried like a baby. My pawrents have raised me since birth, and want the best loving home for me. I am a7 month old female French bulldog. I am a super loving, happy, and playful girl. I love being outside, going for walks, playing with my toys, and doing a few tricks. My pawrents have raised me since birth and is looking for the best home for me! We just want the best home for our Huey girl! View Detail xxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. View Detail French bulldog Two boys and two girls for sale they will be 8 weeks old on may 11th. They just received there first round of shots on may 9th. Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? Table of Contents Easiest Dog to Take Care of: Top 10 Breeds for a Happy Home Do you ever dream about having a furry best friend who loves to play fetch, gives the warmest cuddles, and greets you with the happiest tail wags every time you come home? A friend who is not just any dog, but the easiest dog to take care of? We know, it sounds like a dream come true, right? But we also understand that bringing a new puppy home is a big step. It's like adding a new member to your family, a little brother or sister.All French Bulldog Insights French Bulldog Breed Info If you're seeking an adorable companion with a charmingly squashed face, an easygoing personality, and a distinct penchant for lounging on the couch, the French Bulldog could just be your perfect match. With their signature bat ears and expressive eyes, French Bulldogs, or "Frenchies" as they are lovingly known, have captured the hearts of many dog lovers around the globe, consistently ranking among the most popular breeds. Renowned for their easy maintenance and the ability to thrive in apartment living, French Bulldogs are a city dweller's delight. Their small size, typically weighing under 28 pounds, makes them perfectly suited to compact urban spaces. However, their charming personalities and heartwarming companionship are universally loved, irrespective of city or countryside living. This breed's laid-back nature does not mean they're devoid of fun and play. On the contrary, French Bulldogs can be quite playful and are known for their often comical and entertaining antics, which only further endears them to their owners. Their affectionate demeanor, combined with a remarkably low barking tendency, makes them a joy to have around the house. French Bulldogs are sturdy, compact, and stocky, with a powerful muscular build that contradicts their small size. They have a smooth coat that comes in a variety of colors, from fawn and brindle to white and grey. Their facial expressions are human-like, and they're known to "talk" using a complex system of yawns, yips, and gargles. However, owning a French Bulldog does come with responsibilities. Their brachycephalic short-nosed nature makes them prone to certain health issues and less tolerant of extreme temperatures. Despite their muscular appearance, they are not the best swimmers, and care should be taken around bodies of water. San Jose, CA - Another Bay Area pet owner is hoping police and possibly tips from the public can help locate her stolen puppy. Powell said the crime happened around 7p. She said she exited the store and was loading the dog and her Target purchases into her SUV when two masked men drove up. Powell said the pulled up in a dark-colored Nissan and grabbed the puppy then drove off. She attempted to stop the dognapping. Powell lost the fight, and the dog, falling from the moving vehicle a few feet after the struggle began. She said she told a nearby San Jose police officer, station here due to a rash of car break-ins. Police brass will only confirm they took a statement. This case is similar to many others, including that of Lady Gaga. In May , her dog-walker was shot when thieves stole her two French bulldogs. Keep dogs on a leash and harness at all times and never leave them alone in a car or tied up outside…as it only takes a second for a dognapper to strike. Powell says there will be no questions asked for the safe return of Dolce. Contact her via email, dolcewalker22 gmail. Ever wonder who cares for the seniors or unwanted bulldogs when a family no longer has time for the bulldog that has been a family member for a number of years? These senior Bulldogs depend on other people that take the time, to show concern and open their hearts for these Bulldogs that are no longer puppies — but just as adorable nonetheless. The need for help with senior Bulldogs and unwanted bulldogs far outstrip homes that can take them in or be willing to accept them as part of their families. Help is needed for seniors: Foster homes to care for them and not have them in kennels. Rethink your relationship with your bulldog. It is a choice when you got your bulldog and a choice when you give them up. NorCal Bulldog Rescue is in desperate need of foster homes! If you can help out, even if only for a short time, please contact us. The Bulldogs do not have to be integrated into your family of dogs, many of them need to be placed as only dogs so they need to be kept separate. If you have the ability to gate them off, this would be a tremendous help. You shop. Amazon Gives. Amazon donates 0. AmazonSmile is the same Amazon you know. Same products, same prices, same service. Pacifica, CA .If your dog has a specific medical condition, we recommend you consult with your veterinarian before booking a swim at The Rex Center Donate your vehicle to help Northern California Bulldog Rescue. Please call or click here to donate now. In most cases, they are able to pickup your vehicle within 48 hours. Vehicles For Charity will make your donation experience a pleasant one. Through no fault of their own, more than four million dogs end up in shelters and rescue organizations every year, and nearly half of them never find a place to call home. The foundation provides grants to c 3 shelters and dog rescue organizations nationwide and encourages dog lovers to adopt, volunteer, and donate to support the cause. For more information or to make a tax-deductible donation online, visitwww. Each year, we help animal-welfare organizations find lifelong, loving homes for millions of orphaned pets, as well as fund spay and neuter efforts, animal-assisted therapy programs, and humane education.
Small bulldogs were popular pets with the local laceworkers, keeping them company and ridding their workrooms of rats. After the industrial revolution, lacemaking became mechanized and many of the laceworkers lost their jobs. Some of them moved to France, where their skills were in demand, and of course they took their beloved dogs with them. The dogs were equally popular with French shopkeepers and eventually took on the name of their new country. In the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries, the dogs became popular with members of the Paris bohemian class: ladies of the night, artists, writers such as the novelist Colette, and wealthy Americans doing the Grand Tour. Today, the breed ranks 21st among the breeds registered by the American Kennel Club, up from 71 st in , a testament to his qualities as a companion. Connor is 8 months old now and he is a beautiful new addition to our family. .He has brought so much joy to us since the first day we brought him home. .Connor is happy, healthy, full of energy and has an excellent temperament. .My children absolutely adore him. .We are very thankful for having him! Hank came in as the 4th dog in our home, he was friendly and well socialized! At our home we have a dog door, and Hank already knew how to use it because of the kennel he was raised in at Rocky Springs Bulldogs! He is healthy and wonderful and we just love him so much! Thank you Chris for raising such wonderful puppies! Kitt Family Libby Winter joined our family this Friday and our family is in love. Robyn was very helpful answering our questions and Chris was very nice when visiting. Transportation to Lancaster, PA available. My Mom is May and my Dad is Hudson. We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to help you find the puppy your whole family will love. Speedwell Forge French Bulldogs. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale in Pennsylvania. Browse our listings today to find your new pet or contact us about our breeding and puppy listing services using our web form. We do not have any of these puppies on our property or own any of them, but we are so excited to connect your home to their home. French Bulldog mix Puppies for Sale. Goofy, sweet, free-spirited and joyful, the French Bulldog is a natural born comedian who will gladly fill the house with giggles and laughter. About French Bulldogs. French Bulldog puppies for sale in Pennsylvania from trusted. Join millions of people using Oodle to find puppies for adoption, dog and puppy listings, and other pets adoption. High-quality french bulldog breeder located in Central Pennsylvania. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale French Bulldogs have erect "bat ears" and a charming, playful disposition. Lancaster, PA Puppies for Sale. Multiple litters currently available, offering blue and lilac puppies. Puppies for Sale in Pennsylvania. We have spent many years studying bloodlines, health testing our dogs, and hand selecting. Learn more Breed standard View non-standard 1, puppies available. Lancaster County Raised Pure Bred French Bulldogs Our pups are raise in our Pennsylvania Licensed facility and are well socialized from the day they're born until they're ready to go home with you. Bulldogs for Sale in Lancaster, PA. French Bulldogs make amazingly loving family pets, and get along swell with kids and other dogs, too! French Bulldog puppies for sale in Lancaster, PA from trusted …. We are passionate about the betterment and health of this majestic breed we have grown to adore. Sellers are not affiliated with Lancaster Puppies. The French Bulldog Frenchie is a handsome, cheerful and affectionate little dog who loves belly rubs and cuddles, games and stunts, and who thrives on human interaction. Lancaster Puppies advertises puppies for sale in PA, as well as Ohio, Originally bred as mini-bulldogs in England, then brought. Share this listing: Breed: French Bulldog. If you are unable to find your. Feel free to browse hundreds of active classified puppy for sale listings, from dog breeders in Pa and the surrounding areas. Learn more puppies available 1, certified breeders Transportation. Frenchie puppies make amazing non-barking watchdogs. For Sale In Pennsylvania. Welcome to Fantasia French Bulldogs. Here at Premier Pups, we work hand in hand with the nation's top breeders to raise happy and healthy French Bulldog puppies. Our facility offers heated floors, air-conditioning, and an all-in-one building where the puppies get everything they need. Our French bulldogs have great temperaments and are very will socialized and are extremely loving. French bulldog puppies. Buy best quality puppies from the leading Frenchie breeder in three easy steps 1 Look through the list of available puppies. French Bulldog puppies for sale in Pennsylvania from trusted …. The French Bulldog is a breed that's been getting more and more popular by the day. As the leading source of cute puppies for adoption from responsible pet breeders in Lancaster, PA and surrounding areas look no further than the team at Homemade Puppies. The smushy-faced Frenchie is beloved worldwide as small, non-sporting city dog. French Bulldog puppies and dogs in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Rare lilac and lilac merle french bulldog puppies for sale of grand champion lines and AKC registered right here in the heart land of lancaster PA Pennsylvania. The smushy-faced Frenchie is beloved worldwide as small, non. Originally bred as mini-bulldogs in England, then brought to France, they have compact bodies, upright ears, and are the perfect partner for spending time at home. Feel free to browse hundreds of active classified puppy for sale. Here are a few organizations closest to you: Rescue .Photos and contact info on Advertigo website. Browse these French Bulldog rescues and shelters below. We absolutely love our puppies and have been breeding them since Our dogs are housed in environmentally controlled buildings that comply with the Pennsylvania State requirements. It loves companionship and bonds with animals and families. We are located in Pottstown, Pennsylvania where we are surrounded by open fields, thick forest and frolicking Frenchies. French Bulldog Puppies for Sale. French Bulldog Puppies For Sale. Originally bred as mini-bulldogs in England, then brought to. That's because Frenchies are fun-loving, family-friendly, cuddly little guys and girls who love nothing more than to nap away the day with you at their side! French Bulldog puppies for sale in Lancaster, PA from trusted. I was born on March 9th and I will be ready for my forever home on May 3rd! Lancaster Puppies advertises. French Bulldog puppies for sale we offer come in a widest array of colors and availability time framework, both sexes. Our goal is to exceed the breed standards for temperament, health, bone structure and appearance. Don't miss what's happening in your neighborhood. Life Span Did You Know? The loving and gentle English Bulldog is one of the most well-liked companion dog breeds around the world. A breed of English origins, the Bulldog was first recognized as a non-sporting dog by the American Kennel Club in .The original use of this breed was Bull baiting, which was eventually outlawed with the establishment of the Cruelty to Animals Act of .This legislative act made the act of Bull and Bear baiting both illegal. The current role most suitable for the English Bulldog would be as a companion or family pet, given their sweet demeanor. The English Bulldog is relatively easy to train but definitely takes some work for more complicated commands. If you are looking for a breed to sit, stay, and play dead for treats, this is the breed for you. While they may not be the sharpest tool in the shed compared to some of the other highly intelligent breeds, they are easy going and apt to please their owner. Training this breed will be accomplished with less difficulty if you make the training reward based. Can you say Sweetheart? While this dog breed makes an above average watchdog because of their courage, this breed is a loving companion at heart. The Bulldog is excellent with kids when socialized and should be very agreeable with guests of the house. The English Bulldog breed as a whole is heralded as one of the most well liked companion breeds in the world. The Bulldog should do well with other family pets as long as properly introduced and socialized. They need to be socialized early and often to curb any negative feelings towards strange dogs. This breed is generally agreeable to most environments. Although they easily adapt to a noisy and chaotic household, they are not very tolerant of extreme weather, whether it be hot or cold. Although they are well liked and very popular, one must be aware of the potential health pitfalls with this breed. Some of the potential issues you can see with the English Bulldog is Cherry Eye, Entropion, or dysplasia. This breed also has a high risk for weight gain, so this should be monitored. An average Bulldog life span is between 8 and 12 years. You do not need to be a professional dog trainer to own an English Bulldog. They are good for most novice owners because they are passive by nature. The English Bulldog is an average shedder, so brushing him twice a week with a firm brush will be a good idea. Also, they can have a tendency to drool, so making sure you wipe their face off everyday can help ensure they do not suffer irritation on their faces and between their wrinkles. Because of the amount of wrinkles they have, it is recommended that you clean between the wrinkles fairly often to avoid irritations. The English Bulldog is a generally low energy breed. They do not require a lot of exercise, but when they do play, they play hard! Because they can be intense when they do have an energy burst, an owner must be aware of overexertion. They can be very playful, but do tend to tire out quickly. The English Bulldog is a short, stocky breed that should weigh between pounds. This dog breed generally lives for years. Presidents Calvin Coolidge and Warren G. Harding both owned English Bulldogs. Featured English Bulldog Article.
Some of these you can help prevent, while others are out of your immediate control. If your GSD carries the genes for ears that lie down, instead of standing erect, then more than likely they will have floppy ears. This means they may have ears that never stand up and are floppy for life. Breeding Some breeders choose to pair parents that both have large, erect ears. And some buyers and owners prefer this larger style of ears for show or aesthetic purposes. But, there is some theory that breeding a German Shepherd with larger and larger ears might contribute to ears that stay flopped over. Always see the parents of the puppy you buy from the breeder on the premises to see their appearance. Physical Damage or Accidents Puppies are active and mischievous and can get into plenty of trouble. This includes physical damage or accidents that have the cartilage or muscles in their ears. If this happens their ears may suffer long-term damage and not stand up naturally on their own. So watch out for a rough play that might lead to ear damage. And, if your pup has been in an accident that hurt their ears, take them immediately to the vets. Improper and Poor Nutrition German Shepherds need balanced nutrition during crucial growing stages, including vitamins and minerals that aid in cartilage and muscle development of their ears. You should ensure your dog gets the right nutrition from the start to avoid any issues. Along with Vitamin D, calcium helps strengthen the cartilage to aid in building a strong foundation for the ears to stand up later. Neglecting Ear Cleaning Puppies still need ear cleaning when dirt and build-up are overly present. Dirty ears that become neglected can inhibit proper growth and cause discomfort for your dog, causing them to excessively scratch their ears which can cause damage. This could cause them more harm! Instead, wipe away the dirt from the skin of the ear with a warm, damp washcloth or use special ear cleaning wipes. A dog with one floppy ear and one ear upright is totally normal. Occasionally, your German Shepherd might have one floppy ear and one ear standing upright. If they are a small puppy then they are most likely growing and the one ear down still needs time to go upright naturally. These are some of the best techniques that will help their ears to stand up. They only need to sit inside the ear enough to support cartilage growth. Make sure you check for any creases or folds in their ears before moving on to the next step. Repeat in the other ear. Make a Popsicle Support Now, take the popsicle sticks and place them at the top of the foam rollers both ears should have foam rollers in them at this point. You might need another pair of hands to help with this, so ask your family or friends to help. Take the self-adhering waterproof tape and place a medium-size piece across and around the two foam rollers and popsicle sticks. This ensures even and symmetrical growth. Make a bridge across their ears instead. If your German Shepherd puppy is 9 months old and their ears still flop over, please see your vet for further assistance. When in doubt, get your vet to show you what to do for their ears. Your puppy might become annoyed with the tape on their ears, so they may need close supervision and even some distraction during the taping process. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a German Shepherd that has floppy ears and putting them at risk to have any unnecessary surgery to get their ears to stand up can cause them pain. Speak to your vet about the side effects and pain associated with ear implants. You can help prevent floppy ears in your dog by taking the appropriate steps to keep them healthy. The top ways to help a GSD with floppy ears include: 1. Feed them a high-quality food Giving your dog the proper nutrition for optimum growth is a necessity, especially when they are puppies and growing rapidly. Choose a puppy food with the correct ratio of nutrients and vitamins to ensure they get the correct building blocks for development. When you choose to give them treats, pick ones from this list of the best healthy dog treats for German Shepherd puppies. Provide them with the proper chew toys Chewing helps to strengthen the muscles that surround the ears. Or worse… Injure them. Learn to play and discipline a German Shepherd puppy the right way to avoid accidental ear injuries or damage. German Shepherds with ears that are floppy are a joy to own, no matter their age! Floppy ears are adorable and give your dog even more character. Go on, and find out what makes your companion the happiest dog on the planet! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Bright eyes, strong profiles, and of course, those perky, attentive ears! When you first bring your German Shepherd puppy home, its ears will probably be floppy and droopy — at times, those ears may try to make a stand, only to fall back down again. What gives!? As your German Shepherd grows and gets the right nutrition among other things , the cartilage gets stronger and stronger. And voila — straight, pointy German Shepherd ears! But is it really that simple? Sometimes, yes. Sometimes, no. German Shepherd puppy ears can be unpredictable! The key is to be patient and give those ears time to develop on their own before stepping in. Those ears should perk back up after teething is over. If you want to learn more about the timing of teething and what to look for, check out this article on German Shepherd puppy teething. When went to visit my German Shepherd, Allie pictured above at 7 weeks old , her ears were floppy and undeniably precious. I brought Allie home at 8 weeks, and those ears still had their ups and downs, but by 10 weeks old, her ears were up permanently. So, the key is to catch it in time. This flip-floppy stage is completely normal. Genetics can also come into play when some breeders try to breed specifically for German Shepherds with larger ears. As a result, those big, oversized, heavy ears may be too much to stand up. If pointy, perky ears are important to you, then choose your breeder and puppy carefully. Make sure to check out the parents — how do their ears look? Any significant trauma to the ears during this time can cause permanent damage — which may also cause droopy ears. Try to have everyone keep their hands off those adorable ears as much as possible. Parasites: Yuck. Puppies need chew toys, as it exercises their jaw and their head and neck muscles. Those muscles are important for perky puppy ears. So, let your puppy chew, chew, and chew on the right things of course. If you need some ideas for durable dog toys that can withstand those chomping jaws, then check out this article for my picks of the best tough German Shepherd chew toys. Stick to a high-quality, natural diet instead. Cottage cheese and yogurt both have plenty of calcium without overdoing it , and chicken feet are a natural source of glucosamine, which helps strengthen cartilage. Give those ears time to develop on their own before you resort to taping. At the end of the article are some sources that go over common methods of taping. Note: There are several options that you can use for this — there are even foam dog ear forms. Thin, white surgical tape that tears easily. A 2-inch wide tape works well, and you can also get this at Walmart, CVS, or somewhere similar. Note: Do NOT use duct tape or electrical tape — these will do way more harm than good! An unsharpened pencil or popsicle stick. Adhesive — either skin bond adhesive or eyelash glue are good choices. Give those ears plenty of time to develop and get stronger before taking action. How old was your German Shepherd puppy when its ears finally stood up? Let me know below! Well, there are a few different possible explanations. Causes can vary from age-related to genetic and medical issues. All puppies are born with soft, floppy ears. This is because the cartilage and muscles in their ears have not developed yet. Although some breeds, like Spaniels and Poodles, always have floppy ears, others, like most Shepherd breeds , almost always have pointy, pricked, upright ones. In such breeds, their ears should start to stand up between weeks of age as the bones and muscles in their bodies develop and strengthen. Are they both floppy — or is only one of them drooping whilst the other stands up normally? Teething Several young puppies experience floppy ears during teething. Teething is a period that all infant mammals go through, in which their baby or milk teeth fall out and their adult teeth grow in. It starts at around three weeks old and ends at months of age, although it can take longer. So, their bodies may draw calcium out of other areas, such as the ears, weakening their skeletal structure and making them flop. You may even notice that their ears look different every day during this period. They might be up-right one day, then floppy the next, or even change throughout the day depending on their mood. Their ears will return back to their original shape as soon as their hormones calm down. Although most German Shepherds have up-right ears, some can have floppy or semi-pricked ones. Judges of dog shows and competitions also often look for large ears in the breed. Poor nutrition during puppyhood As mentioned above, calcium is needed to develop and strengthen the cartilage in the ears in order for them to stand up. Vitamin D is also needed to keep bones healthy and strong. This is especially common in rescue dogs that come from puppy farms, homelessness, and neglectful backgrounds. Always buy from reputable breeders! Other symptoms of calcium and vitamin D deficiencies include muscle spasms and joint issues. If severe, nutrient deficiencies can be deadly. Both conditions require urgent veterinary attention, and treatments will likely include special diets and supplements. Similar to malnutrition, this is common in dogs that come from a background of neglect or homelessness. A build-up of wax, debris, or dirt can make the ears heavy and cause them to droop. Poor hygiene As we mentioned above, poor ear hygiene can lead to drooping of the ears. It can also lead to smelliness and infection. All dogs have self-cleaning mechanisms in their ears. However, allergies and hormone imbalances can cause disruptions to the mechanisms, meaning they require some extra care. Dogs can be allergic to environmental allergens like pollen, household cleaning products, and foods like wheat and dairy. Other symptoms of allergies can include skin irritation, coughing, sneezing, runny noses and eyes, and stomach upsets. Each has different symptoms, but they often include drastic changes in energy, coat, thirst, appetite, and weight. German Shepherds are also particularly prone to experiencing hormonal disorders. Ear mites Another cause of ear drooping in German Shepherds is ear mites. Ear mites can be picked up outdoors, or from coming into contact with another animal with the condition. The inflammation from the infestation can cause droopiness in the affected ear. Other symptoms include excessive itchiness, and redness, bleeding, and swelling from the constant scratching. If left untreated, the infestation can cause disease, which can lead to hearing loss and balance issues. Infection Ear infections can be bacterial or fungal, and they can affect both the inner or outer ear. They are most often picked up after exposure to water, and the inflammation can cause the affected ear to droop. Other symptoms can include redness, swelling, irritation, discharge, and excessive head shaking or scratching at the ear. Vets can treat ear infections with antibacterial or antifungal medications, but they need to be treated quickly before they spread or cause permanent damage. Trauma Physical trauma to the ears can also cause them to droop. The most common trauma that causes changes to the shape of the ears in German Shepherds are bites from fighting with other dogs. If your dog has a visible injury to their ear, you should take them to see their vet to check it over and dress any wounds to prevent infection. Make sure to brush your GSD regularly, also around the head and ears — these dogs shed heavily! You can get these over-the-counter at your vet, online, or in a pet store. You can also use a few drops of olive oil for wax build-up, but not too much. To administer, get a towel and ask your dog to lie down in a comfortable place in the home. Then, massage the mase of their ears for around 30 seconds to help it loosen any wax or dirt. Finally, allow your dog to shake their head and use the towel to catch what comes out. That said, if they have particularly problem ears, you should ask your vet and do it however often they suggest, which could be weekly or monthly. However, this is very controversial. It is not yet illegal in the USA, but it is also not something that we would recommend outside of medical necessity, as it can be unnecessarily stressful and painful for dogs. The method known as taping is done by placing something, usually tape, inside the ear to make it stand up straight and grow into that position permanently. It can be effective when done during puppyhood and usually takes weeks to work. As we mentioned above, nutritional deficiencies can cause the ears to flop. Puppies should eat nutritionally complete and balanced food that is enriched with calcium, vitamin D, and DHA for healthy bone and brain development, as well as high-quality protein sources like chicken and fish for strong muscles, and tasty, fiber-rich fruits and veggies. All puppies should have a handful of strong, hardy chew toys to avoid being destroyed during teething, but they can also help the ears to stand up. This is because the ears are connected to the jaw. So, strong jaw muscles means stronger ears, too! Finally, you should avoid playing too rough with your pup and interacting with boisterous dogs to prevent accidents and traumas, which, as we mentioned above, could damage or change the shape of their ears. Dogs communicate with us owners in many ways; they bark, they growl, and they use their bodies. Body language is a key part of understanding how your dog is feeling. Dogs use their entire bodies to communicate; including their tails, their eyes, and their ears! This often happens when a suspicious stranger or an unknown or unfriendly dog is approaching, or when there is a strange noise inside the home. When their ears go back or downwards, it could simply mean that they are listening, or it could indicate either excitement or anxiety. Excited dogs may whine, wag their tails very quickly, and run towards what they are excited about. This happens a lot when dogs are greeting a loved one. An anxious dog, on the other hand, may lower their head and cower their bodies away from what is causing their anxiety. If they are frightened, they may also tremble and whine, and if they are feeling angry or threatened, they may show their teeth and growl. This can happen when a dog is exposed to a phobia or an aggressive dog. It can be difficult to determine exactly how a mixed dog will look. Different pups from the same litter can also present with different traits from their siblings. That said, certain traits, like short hair, for example, are genetically dominant and therefore will be passed on over others, like long hair, which is genetically recessive. Dominant traits are those that require only one copy of a specific gene for the trait to be passed down to a pup. Recessive traits, on the other hand, need two copies; one from each parent. So, which is dominant; pricked or floppy ears? The answer is — floppy ears! Floppy ears are genetically dominant to pricked ears in dogs. That said, different ear shapes in dogs does tend to reflect their original working purpose. For example, the Spaniel, a gun dog, has floppy ears that gather and hold scent particles. This helped them track down what they were looking for much faster back in the day. German Shepherds, on the other hand, along with other wolf-like breeds, such as the Siberian Husky , have pricked, pointed ears. This is thought to aid their hearing during guard work, keep their body temperature under control during strenuous hunts, and give them an alert look to ward off predators. This may be why people are statistically more likely to perceive dogs with pricked ears as more threatening, according to research conducted by James Madison University, USA, in .This is not necessarily true, however, as any dog lover will know. It is likely down to something old and instinctual, as they also discovered that people perceived coat colors differently, too. The type of ears that a dog has can affect their hearing. Whether a dog has pricked ears or floppy ears, they have 18 different muscles that control them to funnel sounds from all different directions. A healthy-hearing dog of any kind can still hear from 40 to 60, hertz, which is more than double what human ears can hear! Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.
Listed below are answers to the most common questions I receive as you are preparing to take your puppy home: 1. What is my puppy eating? We are feeding your puppy PawTree. They have a multitude of other flavors you can try out after your puppy comes home too. You can buy this food by clicking the PawTree picture at the bottom of any page on our website. You can find out more information at www. We also encourage you to set your order to their EZship so you never run out. They also offer personalized food by filling out a pet profile so we encourage all families to head over to fill out their pet profile for personalized food plan as well as personalized bags of dog food when they arrive. How many times per day should my puppy be fed? We feed puppies, weeks old 3 x per day. We try to keep them on a schedule such as: a. Once the puppy reaches 12 weeks, we cut them back to eating 2 x per day, eliminating the noon feeding. Increase the amount you feed based on the recommendations you will find on the dog food bag as suggested by weight of the puppy. We do not recommend free feeding — give your puppy about 20 minutes to eat, then pick it up and put it away. Water should be provided at all times, except during the night. Wet the food for about 30 minutes prior to giving it to the puppy so it softens to aid in digestion. However, if you see loose stools it is almost assuredly overfeeding so back it off until the stool is firm and then slowly add back in. When can I start training my puppy? We like to see training start as soon as you pick up your puppy from my home, or your puppy arrives via car or airplane. We recommend transporting your puppy home in a crate that is lined with a bath towel. Feeding time is a fantastic opportunity to train as you can spend a few minutes several times per day with teaching the basic commands of sit, stay and come. We provide a helpful training booklet with detailed information on training on our Puppy Tips page. What size crate should I buy for my puppy? Most puppies that will mature to a medium size will need a large crate once they have reached maturity. Plastic crates are an option as well. If you have any questions please ask us. What type of collar and leash do I need and what size is best for my puppy? We like to buy the less expensive, adjustable-type of collars and a nylon leash. We do not care for the expandable leashes that allow the puppy to walk way out in front or way off to the side of you. The smallest setting for the collar would be about 8 inches and expanding out from there. We use small carabiners to attach the stretched chain between the collar and the leash. This will prevent your puppy from chewing your new leash. If you are reserving a small size pup then I would suggest an XS collar. Another option while they are very young is a slip leash style. Some families like to train in harnesses. This is also a tool you can use. Sizes will vary from company to company, but most go off of weight. Ask us the estimated weight of your future puppy at the time they will go home so you will have a rough idea of what to purchase. It is never a bad idea to weight to buy until you can size your puppy in person though as each harness will fit differently. You can play the radio softly if your puppy is in a different room from you as this is how they were raised with us. You have to find a system that works for you. However, keeping consistent for the first few nights will build a sleep pattern in your dog you will enjoy for its entire life. How many times per night will my puppy need to go out to go potty? We suggest you feed your puppy dinner no later than p. Make sure that you see puppy go potty and poop before putting him to bed for the night. If your bedtime is p. Then only if puppy is whining, let him out very methodically to potty no playing and put him right back to bed. How many times per day should my puppy need to go potty? Puppies will always go potty right away after they wake up and after they eat. If you take puppy out right after eating, see him go potty, then allow about 30 minutes of some free time in your home before making his world small using a temporary fence or leash. On average they can typically hold their bladders for 2-hours, but every puppy will react differently to stimuli in your home. Should my puppy have contact with other vaccinated dogs? We like to make sure other dogs have not only been vaccinated, but are also free of parasites. Worms of all sorts can live in feces and it just take a quick second for your puppy to ingest enough to get a parasite. This product should be alternated every 6 months. There are countless natural remedies as well as chemical based options you can find at your vet. We always prefer natural options first, but in some cases the chemical based products are needed. Check with your vet or trainer for their recommendations in your area. We strongly suggest topical or collar options only. How often should I give my puppy a bath and what should I use? We do not bathe our puppies unless they are dirty and we use baby shampoo or something gentle. We usually suggest people decide what they like in the look of their Labradoodle. Do you like the longer, shaggy look, or do you like the shorter, more manicured coat? If you leave the coat longer, you will need to keep it combed out and mat free. Do you have recommendations for where to stay when we pick up our puppy? We are located only 20 mins from Lebanon, Oregon. There are numerous hotel options in Albany, Springfield, or Eugene that you can explore. The difficult part is deciding which one will have the greatest positive impact on their well-being. The following are some of the top options for dog foods for your Labradoodle: Dry Food: Due to its affordability and accessibility, dry dog food is a preferred option for Labradoodles. The nutrients in high-quality dry food are appropriate for a different life stage of your Labradoodle. Dry food has the greatest shelf life when compared to other types of dog foods. Wet Food: Wet food or canned food is another option for owners. Labradoodles enjoy the variety of flavors in canned food that come in interesting shapes like other meaty foods. Owners may combine wet food with dried food because wet food alone is typically more expensive than dry food. While it can be costly, doing so guarantees that their pups receive high-quality food. If you only give the same food to your Labradoodles, they could develop picky eating habits. Hence, it makes sense to follow the advice of the majority of veterinarians to combine kibble and wet food with a ratio of 20 to .Make sure the food you choose is sustainable and highly recommended by experts. Ensure that it will suit your needs, those of your dog, your financial situation, and your way of life. The average price of a Labradoodle is already costly. Hence, it is important to choose the kind of diet that will also suit your budget. Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Labradoodle Dog owners must be aware of the foods that can be harmful, poisonous, or trigger an allergic reaction in their Labradoodles. The following is a list of some harmful or poisonous foods that you must never give your pet Labradoodle: Alcohol: There is no enzyme that can digest alcohol in Labradoodles. Hypoglycemia , metabolic acidosis , respiratory difficulties, or central nervous system CNS impairment could result from ingestion. Avocado: Avocados contain the fungicidal toxin persin , which has been linked to the death of many dog breeds, including Labradoodles. It can cause vomiting, loose stool, and heart damage when taken in large doses. Chocolate: The major alkaloid in cocoa and chocolates, theobromine , cannot be broken down by an enzyme found in the stomachs of Labradoodles. As a result, even small quantities of chocolate can cause toxicity. Additionally, they could become uncontrollable, have convulsions, throw up, and have diarrhea. Grapes and raisins: As a result of the tartaric acid found in grapes and raisins, Labradoodles experience diarrhea , vomiting, dehydration , and kidney failure. Unfortunately, even one full grape can cause fatal injuries and irreversible harm to Labradoodles. Onion, garlic, leeks, and chives: All of these vegetables contain N-propyl disulfide , which robs red blood cells of their ability to carry oxygen. Consuming these veggies over time may cause hemolytic anemia. It is frequently present in toothpaste, gum, candies, and syrups. Listed below are foods that may seem harmless but are actually hazardous for Labradoodles: Cooked bones: Cooked bones are prone to shatter into shards. They can hurt your Labradoodle as well as obstruct its mouth, throat, and stomach. High-sugar foods: Your Labradoodle is more likely to develop health issues, including diabetes, obesity, and teeth damage, if it consumes too much sugar from other dog foods. Avoid cheap dog food, which usually contains too much salt. Consuming too much salt can result in seizures, renal failure, diarrhea, and vomiting. If ignored, this results in gastrointestinal blockage and death. Bring your Labradoodle to the nearest veterinary clinic immediately if you think they have accidentally ingested any of the aforementioned foods. A smart technique to make sure that their nutritional demands are being satisfied is to switch to a new food. If you want to gradually introduce a new food to your Labradoodle pup, make sure to introduce it in little amounts every day. The timeline provided below will help you introduce a new food to your Labradoodle: Days. From left to right here are some examples of faucet lixits, an adapter to allow for a Lixit to always be on a faucet without need for removal, and then indoor or traveling Lixits. Over the years, with many conversations with Vets, that I respect, I've learned that puppy food is essentially a marketing ploy. In fact, when we first found Life's Abundance they didn't even have puppy food. It was redundant for them to carry puppy food. However, after pressure from so many customers that had decades of "Puppy Chow" commercials engrained in their heads, Life's Abundance decided to include a puppy food. If you prefer to feed the puppy food for the first couple of months we understand and feel is your decision to make and we do support you. We just ask that you stay with Life's Abundance as it's the best dog food and it's what your puppy has been consuming it's entire life, as well as, it's mother's entire pregnancy and life. This video is a great video to explain how to compare dog foods. First, I have strong opinions about most things, it's just my personality. I'm a Momma Bear type with my doodles. Some of my insanity I was just born with and the other sixty percent was gained by enduring some tragedies I don't ever want any of my families, including you, going through. In case you don't know, Life's Abundance, the company that makes all our food, supplements, treats, grooming products, and cleaning products are all delivered right to your front door for a very affordable amount. Life's Abundance food is very affordable and I will include a video at the bottom for you to watch. The dog food is made fresh every two to four weeks then immediately shipped out so your doodle's food isn't sitting on some shelf, on some semi-truck, in some warehouse, who knows where , and for who knows how long. Instead, we know where the food is being made and it's then on our front door step. Why does this matter? Well, your doodle can't say to you, "Hey, my food tastes moldy and I think it's why my liver and kidneys are hurting me but you won't know until I have bloody urine or I'm really sick. Do you think you could get me some fresh food? Many years ago I had a lab mix that was getting really sick and after being diagnosed with terminal liver problems did we realize the food was moldy. Next, one of our doodles many years ago got into a bag of China made chicken treats and ate more than the recommended serving and within four days she was dead. It was the worst tragedy that even writing about it now makes my stomach ache and my eyes tear up. My doodle was a normal, happy, fun loving doodle then suddenly the next morning she was so severely ill we had to go straight to the vet. Our doodle had no appetite, didn't want to move, was non-stop vomiting, with increased diarrhea with blood in it, she kept drinking water despite her belly looking so full, and she was constantly peeing and it was text book for poisoning from these treats. Telling this story has done me in for the night and I'm going to continue with my site later. I only explained this to help you from experiencing the heartbreak our family endured. From our experiences we searched long and far for a USA made dog food that never had a recall. When we did this search we found Life's Abundance. I checked and double checked this company. We learned it was started by a Vetrinarian which really impressed me from the beginning. Our doodles tested the food and loved it. We tried all the products and loved them. I searched all the dog food review websites and found rave reviews with an average of 4. I love that it was made fresh and never sat in a warehouse or on a store shelf for months, in most cases. I've heard of some big box companies buying tons of food from different companies to get discounts and most of the food sits and waits, in some random warehouse that isn't temperature controlled, for the food to sell so it to can make in onto a shelf at your local store to then be purchased by you. The question remains, how long has that food sat from when it was first made? With Life's Abundance, I know the answer, it was made fresh then shipped to you and I. Without a doubt, I will continue to find good products for our doodles and I will passionately share them with you, our doodle families. If for some reason Life's Abundance changes their quality or their product goes downhill or there is a better product then I will change our website and I will tell you why. I take being a "Full Service Breeder" seriously. I believe that my job begins once you adopt one of our doodles. When you adopt your doodle and take it home you are also gaining a doodle friend and confidant that you can call and get support from for life. I'm here to help you so you can just enjoy your doodle and come to one place for sound, honest advice. As my mother used to say, sometimes I'm too honest so be careful what you ask : lol. Dog owners often get bombarded with endless choices as well as countless adverts from the dog food companies, who all claim that theirs is the best. When it comes to dog food, the simple answer is no one food is best for all dogs. But the question is: which diet is the best for your Labradoodle? Luckily, there are many different options when it comes to dog food. The most popular manufactured foods include a complete diet dry , with or without a biscuit mixer and semi-moist. Some dog foods contain only natural ingredients. Then there is the option of feeding your dog a home-made diet. Some owners swear by a raw diet while others feed their Labradoodles vegetarian food. Within the manufactured options, there are many different qualities of food. Usually, you get what you pay for. Expensive ones are more likely to provide better nutrition for your doodle in terms of minerals, nutrients, and high-quality meat, whereas the cheap ones will most likely contain a lot of grain. Dried food also called kibble in the USA tend to be less expensive than other dog foods. They have improved a lot over the last few years, and some of the more expensive ones are now an excellent choice for a healthy, complete diet. Dried foods also contain the least fat and the most preservatives. Often semi-moist foods contain a lot of sugar and artificial substances, which is why some dogs seem to love them. Choosing the right food for your Labradoodle is very important. The diet influences his health, coat, and even temperament. It can have an effect on his health, coat , skin, energy levels, and temperament. There are several different types of food that you can feed your labradoodle — dry, semi-moist, canned, frozen, or freeze-dried are just some of the options. You can also feed him a home-made or raw diet. Many owners of labradoodle with allergies or skin conditions are now considering this option. Dry Dog Food for Labradoodles Dry food is a popular choice for Labradoodles, especially for large dogs who get through a lot of food. It is also less expensive than other dog foods. It is worth paying for a high-quality dry food as cheaper ones may contain a lot of cereal. It also means that you have to feed larger quantities to ensure your dog gets sufficient nutrients. Canned Dog Food for Labradoodles Canned food is another popular choice. Dogs also love them. They love the taste, and it generally comes in a variety of flavors. Canned food is often great mixed with dry kibble. If your labradoodle has lost interest in food and on a dry food diet, then you can add a small amount of canned food. Canned food tends to be more expensive than dried food. Many owners do not like the mess that it makes. If you store a part-opened tin in the fridge, then it can have an overpowering smell when you open the fridge door. Semi-Moist Dog Food for Labradoodles These are the commercial dog foods shaped like pork chops, salamis, burgers, or other meaty foods. They are the least nutritional of all dog foods. They are full of sugars, artificial flavorings, and coloring. You may give your doodle one as an occasional treat, but they do not provide the nutrition that your labradoodle needs. Freeze-Dried Dog Food for Labradoodles The frozen food manufacturers often make this for dog owners who like the convenience of it. You can store them for six months to a year. They do it to make sure that their pets are getting the right nutrition they need. Feeding your doodle a home-cooked diet can be time consuming and expensive. The tricky part is sticking to it once you have started with the best intentions. Raw food for Labradoodles If your doodle is not doing well on commercially prepared dog food then you might need to consider a raw diet. There is evidence that they are becoming increasingly popular among the Labradoodle owners. Raw food diets emulate the way dogs ate before the existence of commercial dog foods. After all, dry, canned, or other styles of cooked food for dogs were mainly created as a means of convenience. However, raw diets are not without controversy. Supporters of the raw food diet argue that a carefully planned raw diet gives the dog numerous health benefits, including a healthier coat, more energy, cleaner teeth, and get rid of bad breath and doggy odor. But the critics say that the risks of nutritional imbalance, intestinal problems, and food-borne illness caused by handling and feeding raw meat outweigh any benefits. Scientifically, the jury is still out. This is one of the most frequent questions that all the Labradoodle owners ask. But there is no easy answer. The correct amount of food for your labradoodle depends on several factors such as: Breed. As they grow you will move from four meals per day at 8 weeks old, to just one or two in adulthood. And you will want to use as much of their daily kibble as you can in training. Helping to strengthen the bond between you, as well as to teaching them which behaviors you want to see in your home. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy When it comes to feeding your new Labradoodle puppy there are plenty of options to choose between and a number of things to consider. Puppies grow up fast. The first thing to keep in mind is that puppies have different dietary needs to adult dogs. Getting too much of some nutrients, and not enough of others can lead to developmental problems. Growing pups digest food and absorb nutrients differently than adult dogs too. Their gastrointestinal system also works much faster than that of an adult dog. Puppy Nutrient Requirements Puppies need more calories than adult dogs, relative to their size. In fact, they need about twice as many calories in relation to their body weight compared to that of a full grown Labradoodle. Compared to mature dogs, puppies also need: more protein to support growing muscle more fat to fuel growth and a different mineral balance to aid in the rapid development of their bones. For example, one study showed that puppies fed a low phosphorus diet suffer from impaired appetite and growth, diminished skin and fur quality, and a disturbed musculoskeletal system. Too much calcium can also negatively affect bone development, by accelerating it. This is a serious joint condition that leads to painful arthritis and lameness. The smaller and younger your puppy is, the more often they need to eat, since their stomachs are too small for big portions. Labradoodle puppies that are 4 months or younger should have their food split into 4 meals a day. When they reach 4 and 6 months old this can be reduced to 3 meals. Knowing how much to feed your Labradoodle puppy can be tricky. So the feeding charts on the packaging are a good place to start. This basic pet calorie calculator can help determine how many calories a puppy needs. Overfeeding Labradoodle Puppies Canine obesity is a big problem for many dogs and the Labradoodle is no exception. Some Labrador Retrievers are known to have a genetic mutation that causes them to have an insatiable appetite. But there are plenty of genetically normal dogs who will always want more food. If your puppy is constantly hungry you can try giving him smaller, more frequent meals. In fact, for training purposes we recommend using as much of each of the meals rations as you can as training treats between meals. These days there are a lot of brands vying for space in the dog food market. So deciding what to feed your Labradoodle puppy might be the most difficult question of them all. Puppies that are 8 to 12 weeks old should continue eating the same food they were eating at the breeders. If you want to change their food, wait until they are fully settled at home. Then transition gradually to a different diet to avoid causing an upset tummy. You can do it over the course of a week, like this: Feed 1 part new food to 3 parts old food on the first two days. Equal parts old food and new food on days three and four. And three parts new food to one part old food for two more days after that. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Dry Food Most puppy parents choose one of the many commercial dry puppy foods available. There are many reasons why these diets also known as kibbles are so popular. They are. Is kibble, cans, raw or homemade food better? Swapping Puppy Food Brands Moving into his or her new home is a challenging and exciting time for your Labradoodle puppy. Keep feeding what your pup is used to for at least two weeks. Then, slowly start mixing in the new food you have chosen for your pup. Labradoodle Puppy Diets Puppies have lots of growing to do. This means that they need more of certain minerals and nutrients for example calcium and phosphorus for bone growth. Your labradoodle pup will also need a higher amount of good quality protein. This is definitely not the case, though. This—among other things—can cause joint problems, such as hip dysplasia. Labradoodles are a cross between two breeds that are both already at high risk of developing hip dysplasia. The most important thing of all is to avoid overfeeding a Labradoodle puppy, as we will see later in this article. This is called hypoglycemia. Generally, a feeding schedule for your Labradoodle pup can look like this: 2 — 4 months: 4 meals daily 4 — 6 months: 3 meals daily 6 — 8 months: 2 — 3 meals daily Older than 8 months: 2 meals daily. Just make sure to divide the total daily amount onto multiple feedings. You can make slight adjustments to these amounts if your pup is looking a little slim or chunky. The number of calories your pup needs will also change as he or she gets older and heavier. There are a couple of different options out there. Commercial dog foods offer complete and balanced nutrition for your growing pup — this means that they have all the right nutrients in all the right amounts and ratios. If a puppy is fed an inappropriate diet, this could lead to long-lasting growth defects or other malnutrition diseases. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Kibble Kibble is the most popular type of dog food out there. There are only two things you need to pay attention to when choosing kibble: It should be designed specifically for puppies, and it should be high-quality. Research shows that higher-priced dog foods tend to have higher nutrient digestibility than lower-priced kibble — so it might be worth spending a bit more. Choose a kibble that contains a meat protein source as the first ingredient, and steer clear of ingredients like corn, soy, and cereals. Due to its high water content, the aromas and taste of the meat unfold better, making wet food the most palatable food there is. This comes at a bit of a cost, though: Wet food tends to be more expensive than kibble, and of course it spoils more easily. To get the best of both worlds of commercial dog foods, you can combine or alternate between kibble and wet food. The BARF diet consists of lots of raw meat and bones, as well as some veg and fruit. Supporters of raw feeding think that it will make your dog healthier, although there is no solid evidence for this yet. Raw meats are often contaminated with bacteria such as Salmonella or Campylobacter. These bacteria could potentially cause diseases in your pup. However, this is extremely rare, as the digestive tract most dogs can handle these bugs just fine. This means that there is a lot less danger of bacterial infections from raw meats. Keep in mind that cooking for a dog is not the same as cooking for yourself. Avoid spices, onions, garlic, cooking oils, and too much salt. These are dogs that will always want more food and are prone to obesity. It can help to space out meals or add one or two feedings a day if your dog is constantly hungry. Another option is to make your dog work for small amounts of food throughout the day — be it with puppy training, food balls, or puzzles. The possibilities are endless.
Gallery Pine Winds Pine Winds Labradoodles, located 25 miles north of Kansas City, Missouri, began with one dog and the desire to volunteer as an animal partner therapy team. I retired from teaching after 34 years and with all three children grown I decided to pursue this adventure by purchasing my first labradoodle. Marley joined our home as a puppy, became a Canine Good Citizen, and continued on to pass her evaluation enabling her to be registered as a therapy dog with Pet Partners. Occasionally she was bred and produced puppies with exceptional temperaments, several becoming therapy dogs as well. Most importantly the puppies have become excellent fur members of families. Mia, my second dog, is a puppy from the breeding of Marley to another labradoodle who was a registered therapy dog. Mia became a registered therapy dog as well. Poppy, Mias offspring, is now my registered therapy dog. My dogs are working dogs whether they are visiting, enrolled in agility classes or taking refresher obedience training. Mia, Poppy and Rosie are proven to represent the best of temperaments and mind set a labradoodle should possess. I have two breeding dogs so I am able to spend quality time working with each puppy. I search out the best males with exceptional traits that I can find to breed my dogs to, hoping to continue with a lineage of therapy partners. Raising a litter of puppies is hard work but seeing them with their families certainly makes it worthwhile! Welcome to Cottonwood Labradoodles. We are a small breeder located in the heartland of America, 30 minutes north of Wichita and 2. Our mission is to raise puppies with individualized care, with a focus towards preserving the health and loving temperament of the Australian Labradoodle. We are member breeders of the ALAA Australian Labradoodle Association of America , an organization diligent in upholding the integrity of the breed and requires genetic testing of all breeding dogs. We are so excited to announce that the ALAA has awarded Cottonwood Labradoodles the Platinum Paw; the highest health standard possible for our dogs, as well as recurring investment in testing the health of our breeding dogs. All our puppies are born and raised in our home. As they mature, we take great pleasure in introducing them to romps and adventures on our five acres of woods, prairie, and pond. We assist with every delivery and therefore handle each pup from the time they are born until they are placed in your loving arms on Puppy Pickup Day. We find this individualized attention and stimulation creates dogs that are better socialized, more intelligent and physically healthier. This care and supervision of puppies is my passion! Please check in with our Cottonwood Labradoodles Facebook page to brighten your day and watch them grow. For more information, please go to our Request A Puppy page to fill out our application. Joy is a Multigen Australian Labradoodle made right here from our beloved Honey and Journey and is our up and coming Mama to be. She has a beautiful Red wavy, fleece coat. Joy has completed all her health testing to Platinum level with flying colors. Joy has completed several training classes, basic manners, obedience, and even an agility class. She has the best eye contact and loves her belly rubs! Oliver has completed all his health testing to Gold Paw level and is the perfect little gentleman weighing just 25 pounds. We are so excited to see the wonderful puppies these two will produce! We expect puppies from this mating to be small Mediums in size with wavy fleece coats in shades of cream, caramel, apricot, and possibly red and wonderful temperaments. Will confirm exact date once pups are born. This breeder raises the pups underfoot to ensure they are well socialized and loved by everyone. They also provide their dogs with great homes that include fenced yards or individual runs , competent owners, and plenty of love. All of their Labradoodle puppies are raised with other dogs and cats as well as kids. They are very proud of the high quality and attention to the dams, sires, and Labradoodle puppies they produce. This firm ensures that every dog under their care receives adequate care. This breeder has a clean, well-kept acre on which the puppies can run and play with the family. To ensure that each puppy gets all of the nutrients it needs to grow into a healthy dog, KC Labradoodles feeds its pups high-quality dog food. KC Labradoodles produces multigenerational mini and standard-sized labradoodle puppies. Each breeder prioritized health, temperament, training, socialization, and individuality to ensure that all their pups go to homes with families who will provide them with love and attention. You can always visit their websites to see if they have any upcoming Labradoodle litters. In that case, we encourage you to contact one of these 5 best Labradoodle breeders in Kansas. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. These days I have two adorable fuzzy rascals around me, that ensures I get plenty of exercise and laughter throughout my day! Legal Information The owner of this site, LabradoodleHome. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. Labradoodle Home does not intend to provide veterinary advice. All articles and posts are aimed at giving users a better understanding of their dogs. The content on this blog is not a substitute for veterinary guidance. Amazon OneLink. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Kansas City Kansas and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. February Hedgewood Trails is committed to provide the highest quality dogs that demonstrate affection, intelligence, and physical endurance. Our original focus was low shedding fur as we have a granddaughter with Cystic Fibrosis and a grandson with Dog Allergies. Both love dogs! These kids inspired us to help others like them to have a dog to love and grow up with. The breeding quality is outstanding! We love our Darby! Linda Rogers We had the best experience purchasing our two pups! Our puppies were well cared for and loved right from the start and it shows. Our puppies were trained with a clicker already and are super intelligent. Our sweet girls have fit our family beautifully and we are very grateful to Hedgewood Trails! Jasmine Knell I visited Hedgewood Trails today. All I can say is WOW. These puppies were so well behaved and well taken care of. All of them so loving and have an amazing start on training. Our next addition to our family will definitely be from Hedgewood Trails! Kayla Hopkins We picked up our baby today. She is a cuddle bug. She is a great addition to our family. Thank you Hedgewood Trails. Great meeting with you today. They let us come visit a couple times before we brought her home. Thank you! Amy Dillard Andy and Brenda are wonderful to work with! They are both so caring and passionate about their pups. They were very helpful and a wealth of knowledge. The kennel area was very clean. All of the dogs are well cared for and full of love. Top Notch breeders! If you are looking to add a Labradoodle to your family, Andy and Brenda are your people. I highly recommend Hedgewood Trails Labradoodles! Annie Debo Me — first-time dog owner with a thousand questions… HWT — a thousand answers delivered immediately with knowledge, credibility, and patience. I wanted to meet and spend a few minutes first with mom Maizie and HWT obliged — Maizie was so friendly and low key — the perfect demeanor. After that, I met dad Gunner — an absolutely regal poodle who totally changed my mind about poodles… Tall, super-healthy, active, fun to watch. Lastly, I met the pups who were as cute as they could be. I spent the next several weeks getting to know them through regular visits. Brenda and Andy were always patient with my requests to spend time with the litter, and it was reassuring getting to know Andy and Brenda through the process… super-high integrity, genuine, really serious about doing their best. For me, that counts. And after spending all that time with them, I like keeping in contact with the HWT community and the other pups in the litter. Plenty of contact after the sale makes raising my puppy easier. People ask, what kind of dog is that? I carry HWT cards with me to let people know where to learn more. Erik Renaud Awesome experience as a first time pet owner. I asked a lot of questions and they responded quickly and provided the answers and beyond. They met me at the airport to pick up my puppy and we spent some time together. Andy and Brenda are really caring people. I had more questions after we were home in NC and they were happy to answer and we have kept in touch. The Puppy Culture training that they do has made a huge difference. My puppy is such a good listener. Amy Smith.
She was one of 26 Pugs rescued on Independence Day in .Toy lived in a wire cage and was bred time and time again, and she did not receive any veterinary care. Toy has skin issues and calloused, webbed feet from standing on wire flooring her entire life, and she has permanent back and hip arthritis. She is now receiving cold laser therapy to help with the pain. She also has a collapsed trachea which was not addressed at the time, and she has severe glaucoma. Even in puppy mills licensed by the U. Department of Agriculture, standards of care are notoriously low. Current federal regulations are so weak, and enforcement is so poor that breeders can keep dogs constantly caged and deny access to regular exercise, socialization and even adequate vet care. The truth is most breeding females do not end up in a loving home once their bodies give out. Their puppies are also prone to a host of lifelong, expensive medical and behavioral problems. Puppy mill operators care more about profits than dogs. All dogs deserve the good life—but as long as the secretive puppy-breeding industry continues to hide the truth, too many dogs will remain victims of its cruelty. Other Ways to Help:. The rescue was conducted by the Utah Animal Advocacy Foundation. Between July and September, Korb and other volunteers with the rescue organization made five separate round trips to eastern Nevada to transport the pugs to Utah. Many of the puppies were infected with parvovirus and required immediate treatment leading to expensive emergency veterinary bills. Her foster situation turned into a forever home. The other foster dog in her care has been adopted and will soon be united with its new family. Thanks to the rescue and the volunteers, these pugs have a new outlook. UAAF finds homes for roughly animals every year. She hopes situations like this will inspire more people to use the rescue and adoption route when searching for a family pet. Those who would like to donate or inquire about adopting an animal can do so here. Copyright Scripps Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. Sign up for the Breaking News Newsletter and receive up to date information. Stop puppy mills Adopt, don't buy! Puppy mills are operated by people who want to make money, and they see mass-producing animals as a way to do it. Animal welfare laws tend to be outdated and poorly enforced, but the good news is that there are things we all can do to help in the fight against puppy mills: Don't buy anything from a pet store that sells live animals. Pet stores are one of the major reasons puppy mills continue to exist. They provide a marketing mechanism for puppy mills, and if these stores felt a backlash and stopped selling animals, it would help force some puppy mills to shut down. If you ever walk into a pet store that sells animals, notify the manager or owner that you do not approve of this practice and you will not do business with them as long as it continues. The more people who stop purchasing animals, the fewer puppy mills will exist. There are good people out there who breed animals for the love of the breed. If you ask the right questions, it's easy to spot a good breeder. If they are only interested in your ability to pay, rather than your ability to provide a good home, do not buy an animal from them. When in doubt, re-read 1 and 2 above! If we can educate the public about the evils of puppy mills, and get more people to adopt rather than buy and to boycott pet stores that sell animals , we can make a real difference in how many animals need the sort of care that we so often see at MAPR. Make a donation today! Many times these animals are in deplorable physical condition: parasite-ridden, underweight, bred nearly to death. Most have rarely been out of their small, cramped cages. They may have eye infections, missing orbs or vision impairment caused by ammonia from urine-soaked quarters. Some have torn, deformed ears and missing limbs from cage aggression. Females may have hernias from painful, extended labor. Their toes may be splayed from walking on wire floors. Many have tattooed ears. Some have numbers hung around their necks on chains that have grown into their flesh. Their dental state is invariably horrible; most will have painful, infected teeth and gums, some resulting in systemic infections. These are animals who've endured years of torture to make money for uncaring humans. When a reputable rescuer gets her hands on a puppymill survivor, providing medical attention is just the beginning. The physical damage can be staggering. The psychological damage is much worse. It takes a very special adopter to accept and love a puppymill survivor. Rehabilitation of the puppymill survivor begins with rescue, but can only be completed by a committed, loving family. The purpose of this article is to help demystify some of the acquired behaviors of the puppymill dog, and to let the adopter know what to expect. Common Puppymill Survivor Behaviors Terror of humans hands: The only time most mill dogs are removed from their cages, it's a painful experience. The dog may be grabbed by the first reachable part of it's body: tail, leg, scruff, ears. This takes lots of patience and non-threatening touches to overcome. You may have to lie on the floor face down with your eyes averted to get the dog to approach you at all. Let him come near you and sniff. It may take an hour, or days for this to happen. You can sometimes begin by holding the dog, petting him gently for a few seconds, speaking softly, then place him carefully down. Let him know you do not wish to restrain him. Lengthen the time for this ritual each day. Never raise your voice, clap your hands, or allow loud noises in the home during this adjustment period. You must strive to create a totally non-threatening environment. Behave as submissively as possible. Build trust slowly. Aversion To Eye Contact: Many puppymill survivors refuse to make eye contact with humans. This indicates fearful submission which decreases as the dog comes to realize he will not be harmed by you and begins to trust. Talking to your dog in a soft, calm voice helps speed the process. A dog may not speak English, but the gentle tone of your voice and the fact that he is the focus of your concern will be understood. The "I'm Afraid Of My Food" Routine: Anytime the cage door is opened on a mill dog, fear is the response, because an evil human is behind it. Of course, the cage door must be opened to insert a bowl of food, which may also be used to entice the dog within reach. It's not unusual to see your puppymill survivor run in the opposite direction when you sit dinner on the floor. Turn your back and walk away until the dog feels "safe" enough to eat. Let him eat undisturbed. Some never grasp the finer points. Most males will mark, and many females, too. Crates are useful in housetraining. Belly bands a cloth band which wraps around male dogs covering the ureter will help prevent marking. Nicely fitted doggie diapers are available from Foster and Smith. Human diapers can also be used - just cut a hole for the tail. Put your dog on a schedule. Take him outside first thing in the morning, at lunchtime whenever possible, after dinner, before bedtime. If you see him lift his leg in the house, a shaker can jar filled with small pebbles or clicker can distract him long enough for you to get him outside. Never raise your voice. Never hit a dog. Take him outside and reinforce by saying, "Potty outside", or something similar. Use positive reinforcement when the dog does his business outside.Potty outside! Good, good boy! Never take your dog outside a securely fenced yard until you are thoroughly bonded. Then if you take your dog outside the fence, double-check to be sure harness is secure enough. I sometimes use a collar and harness, then run the lead from the collar through the harness for extra safety. If a mill dog gets loose outside a secured area, he will likely run until he drops; catching him will be quite a feat. Prevention is by far the best policy. Coprophagy: Stool-eating is common in puppymill survivors. There is much contention as to the cause. However, most rescuers feel it is a learned behavior. Again, prevention is the best policy. Pick up the yard frequently. Some mill dogs stop this behavior over time. Fear of Water: Many puppymill survivors are frightened of water hoses. Puppymillers generally don't bother removing the dogs before hosing down their cages. I have known adopters whose puppymill survivors have become well-acclimated to homes, families and leashed walks only to have the dog bolt when they chanced by a neighbor watering his lawn. Fear Biting: Fear biting is more common in abuse cases than in puppymill survivors, but we do see it occasionally. Puppymill survivors, like feral dogs, usually cower in the presence of humans. Fear biting can frequently be overcome with proper training and commitment, but it generally requires a professional animal behaviorist, not to mention a strong commitment from the adoptive family. Sadly, because of both the enormity of the canine overpopulation problem and the abundance of more easily salvageable dogs, most fear biters are euthanized. These are a few of the most common puppymill survivor behaviors and suggestions for working with them. Working with a puppymill survivor is not an easy undertaking. But for those of us who have witnessed the miracle of these frightened beings growing to love and trust, to play with toys for the first time, to learn to take soft beds and good food for granted, it is one of the most joyful and rewarding experiences of our lives. The puppymill survivor who ventures to trust a human being despite a history of cruelty and neglect is a triumph of the spirit from which we can all learn. What is a Puppy Mill? Puppy mills are commercial breeding facilities that produce purebred puppies in deplorable conditions to maximize profit. You can either report it to the USDA, your state agency, your local rescue or shelter, or you can contact Bailing Out Benji and they can point you in the right direction! The Humane Society of the United States also has a phone number that you can call to report these concerns to. Just remember to always check out their facilities! Whether you simply share a status on social media about what puppy mills are and how to avoid them could really make a difference! Contact your city council about a local retail ban — There are more than localities nationwide that have passed laws restricting the retail sale of pets. You can even tell the owner why you are choosing not to shop at their store anymore. Use Social Media — Spread the Word. Use the hashtag ShowMeTheMommy on social media to stress the importance of asking to see the parent dogs before purchasing a puppy. Please consider donating to Pug Partners so we can continue to save the lives of puppy mill prisoners from the terrible abuse so many have endured. Thank you! Videos and Cams Pug rescued from puppy mill had the best life Pug rescued from puppy mill shows signs of serious neglect, but she is adopted and her life changes dramatically for the better. By Christelle L. Del Prete December 4, Piper the pug had been through a lot by the time she was rescued from a puppy mill in .But the best chapter of her life started when she came to Best Friends Animal Sanctuary. Brandy and Piper were together nearly 10 years. When Piper passed away in mid-November, she was believed to be 19 years old. Although she lived a charmed life as a pampered pet after her rescue, she also became an ambassador for pet rescue, adoption, senior pets and rescuing puppy mill dogs. What is a puppy mill? A puppy mill is a dog breeding facility where dogs live in small cages and female dogs are bred as frequently as possible. Dog mills in the U. Puppy mill puppies are also sold on websites and through classified ads. Many people unknowingly buy puppies who have genetic disorders or who may be sick because of poor conditions in puppy mills. Meanwhile, millions of healthy, loving dogs of all ages are available for adoption at shelters and rescue organizations around the country. She was extremely underweight and missing most of her fur. Her skin was irritated and in rough shape. Since she was not well-socialized, she was also quite unsure about people. But all that was about to change. Brandy, a southern Utah resident, was volunteering at Dogtown when Piper along with other rescued puppy mill dogs were brought in. Piper ran up to me and asked me to pick her up. But Piper was so sweet and calm they took right to her. She instantly became part of the family. In the beginning, Brandy carried her around in a baby pouch and let her down when she felt safe. Together, they walked all over town and met as many people and friendly dogs as possible. As Piper gained healthy weight and confidence, she began riding in a stroller and then she began walking on her own, with Brandy picking her up only when she seemed overwhelmed. Brandy and Piper logged countless miles on their daily walks and took some epic road trips. Piper moved from Utah to California to St. Louis with Brandy, and everywhere they went they helped to spread awareness about animal welfare. Piper could change minds and hearts. Because of their special bond, the cat began cuddling on the couch with her and Brandy. She survived cancer and came through major dental surgery with flying colors. Besides some age-related arthritis and eyesight issues, Piper had slowed down but was going strong until recently, when she began having lung and breathing issues. As hard as it was to let her go, their life together was more than Brandy had ever hoped for. Both of our lives have forever been changed through this journey. Save Them All Stay in touch with the animals via email updates, as they get second chances at happy homes. Email Address. WhatsApp Three of the pug puppies rescued from the puppy mill. Photo courtesy of UAAF via Facebook A Utah animal rescue organization is flooded with adoption applications after a rescuing 40 pugs from a puppy mill in Nevada. After a volunteer for The Utah Animal Advocacy Foundation expressed concern about an unethical breeding situation in Nevada, the UAAF coordinated with volunteers as well as the breeders to find a resolution that could bring the pugs to safety. The pugs were brought to Utah, where they were placed in foster homes to await adoption. Maryjo Korb from UAAF said the dogs were kept in a dirt enclosure with chain link fences, and several had lice. After the rescue, a few puppies were born but died shortly after from genetic problems caused by inbreeding. Of the six puppies with parvovirus, only one survived. Additionally, prospective dog buyers can look for puppies registered through the American Kennel Club, ask for medical backgrounds and visit the breeders to make sure the dogs are being treated well, Hamilton said.
Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Pick up the puppies individually and hold them for several minutes at least once a day. Avoid letting small children handle the pups, as they can be too rough. While dams may be protective soon after delivery, they usually allow other people and animals around the litter by 3 to 5 weeks. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Take them out of the whelping box and let them play in penned, puppy-proofed areas. Introduce them to various surfaces, such as carpeted and hard floors, and give them safe dog toys with interesting shapes and textures. Be sure that the treats are tiny to help prevent unhealthy weight gain. Schedule play dates, and allow your puppies to meet and interact with new furry friends. When introducing a cats and dogs, a dog should be leashed, and a cat should have an avenue to escape if it feels threatened. Go to source Keeping the puppies with their litter and mother for 8 weeks is a must. Separating puppies prior to 8 weeks can lead to long-term behavioral issues. Puppies are highly adaptable, so most adjust to a new home within a couple of days. Go to source Having a familiar object can make a puppy comfortable with its new surroundings. These diffusers, sprays, and collars mimic the pheromones a mother dog produces, which can help soothe a puppy after it's left the litter. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!
american bulldog puppies for sale new york - How could you not love a baby with a smile as wide as her sweet face? Marge looks you straight in the eye and searches your face to see exactly how she can make you happy. She is working on sitting, staying, and lying down. Marge is so smart! Marge and her sister, Lisa, were abandoned on the side of the road with her sister Lisa. Someone just left them on the side of the road to die a harsh death. We tried our darndest to ignore their plight but when I drove by a second time and saw how terrified and hungry they were, we had to help. We brought them food and water in buckets and prayed they would be friendly since I had heard all the stories about pit bulls. I admit they were leery of us too but as soon as they had a few bites they became our best buddies. Marge was so thin, and something had caused some serious cuts and abrasions, but she has never even paused in her outpouring of love and gratitude. What a precious girl. Marge is especially intelligent and gentle and loves nothing more than sitting beside you, knowing you are near. Marge loves kisses and belly rubs, running wide open, and treats. She will make a devoted fur baby to a family that does not have cats or chickens. I do not know about other dogs, but it would be better to err on the cautiousAvailable dogs are met by appointment only and pre-approved adopters ONLY. Our dogs are currently in a foster homes which can answer your questions better than anyone else. The application is the first step. Volunteers process the applications and need time above their personal needs and full-time jobs to process the apps. Please have patience. We do not have any paid staff members. Russell Rescue will try to first place our rescue dogs locally or in surrounding states. Russell Rescue is not open to the public for visiting hours. We do not have a physical location of our own. September 14, , pm. Sign up for BoxerBriefs to get news delivered right to your mailbox! Get them early for holiday gifts! We are an organization dedicated to the rescue and adoption of Boxers in the metropolitan-Atlanta area, and to provide support and education for Boxer owners. We are operated and managed by a group of dedicated volunteers, and we are funded by adoption fees, fundraisers, and gifts from generous donors like you! Atlanta Boxer Rescue, Inc. If you are interested in adopting a Boxer in Atlanta, you've come to the right place. Take a moment to learn about the Boxer breed, including some of its history. When you are ready to move forward, familiarize yourself with everything you need to know before you adopt. Some Frequently Asked Questions are answered on our site as well. We strive to support your adoption to make it a success for you and your new Boxer friend. All of our Boxers have had a check-up with a veterinarian, been spayed or neutered, and brought up-to-date on vaccinations. We have also done our best to evaluate our Boxers for temperament, socialization, and house-breaking. We are always looking for great volunteers to help us. If you are interested in being a foster home for a Boxer in need, thank you! The number of Boxers that we can save depends on the number of willing volunteers like you. Please complete our Foster Application or contact us for more information. We have a lot of resources to help you. Sign up for our newsletter , contact us about any questions or concerns you might have, or seek comfort if you've lost your Boxer friend. We can't do this without you, so please consider a donation or a purchase from the ABR Store!
Similar services:
american bulldog puppies for sale new york - All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. When do labs Stop Growing? Labs need to fill out more than smaller breeds as they are medium to large-sized dogs. Usually, an average Lab will be at full height and weight by their first birthday. Is Your Labrador Retriever Healthy? Labrador Retrievers are the perfect family pet. Not only are Labs wonderful companions, but their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and love for life make them ideal members of any household. The best way to guarantee that happiness? Preventative care! This condition can cause pain and make it difficult for your pup to move freely. Due to CHD, they may also develop arthritis in the hip area as they age. Some dogs with CHD have normal hips as puppies, but they can develop joint instability later in life. Unfortunately, CHD affects medium to large dog breeds, with the Lab amongst those dogs with a higher chance of developing this condition. Recognizing the early signs of this progressive disease will help you get treatment for your dog so he has an active life filled with joy instead of pain or discomfort. An old Labrador Retriever is especially prone to developing this disease. Osteoarthritis, or Degenerative Joint Disease DJD , is a progressive inflammation of the joints caused by deterioration and breakdown in cartilage. This action leads to an increase in friction, which causes significant pain for dogs. In cases of osteoarthritis, this cartilage cushion begins to break down because of factors such as age or injury. If a dog has canine atopic dermatitis, the immune system reacts too strongly to common environmental allergens absorbed through the skin, such as mold spores and grass. A dog with atopic dermatitis will typically show signs and symptoms between 3 months to 6 years of age. Labrador Retrievers are amongst the most common dog breeds to develop food and skin allergies. Gastric Distention and Volvulus Bloat Canine bloat , or gastric distention and volvulus GDV , is a condition where the stomach swells abnormally. Bloat is a serious condition that requires immediate emergency care. Dogs of all shapes and sizes can bloat, but some breeds are more susceptible than others. Unfortunately, Labradors are at the top of the list for susceptibility to this condition. The causes of bloat in Labs and other dogs are unknown, but there is likely a genetic element. Dogs who recover from bloating should never be used as breeding stock again. Got a Lab? Get Pet Insurance Coverage You love your dog like a child, but you cannot control what your puppy is dealt with in the genetics department. Health struggles can affect your Labrador Retriever, and his genes will determine what medical conditions or diseases he develops. What if cancer happens? What else might go wrong with your dog in an emergency that will require immediate attention? As a dog owner, you want to make sure that your Lab pup has the best chance possible at living a healthy and happy life. A pet insurance policy will handle any medical issue or expense which may come your way, which is a significant help, especially with how expensive veterinary bills can get. Get insurance quotes today and see for yourself how much better life will be with this coverage. Can you tell how big a puppy will get? Your puppy will be growing very fast when you first bring them home. But that growth rate slows down quite quickly. So when do dogs stop growing for good? And how will you know when your puppy has reached their adult size? Labrador Puppy Growth Chart We have a fascinating and long running thread on our forum, where members enter the weights of their puppies at different ages. The Labrador growth chart below shows the data we have collected, in a Labrador weight chart by age. Labrador dog weight chart by age and breed Each dot represents a snapshot in time of an individual puppy. You can find his or her age in weeks along the bottom of the chart and his weight in pounds up the left hand side. You can see how all the dots taken together follow a pattern, but there is still a considerable range of puppy weights at each age. When Do Dogs Stop Growing? But what about a two year old Lab, or a one year old? Well, in broad terms, dogs stop growing sometime between one and two years old. But it varies between breeds. Most dogs are fully grown by their first birthday. In general small breeds reach their adult height several months before large breeds do. Yet dog size varies greatly among individuals, even within the same breed. Larger dogs are often slower to mature than little dogs, and carry on growing for longer. Small dogs are sometimes fully grown by the time they are 9 months old. Whereas giant breeds can take up to three years to reach full size. Adult size, temperament, and coat type are all likely to affect energy requirements, and affect the rate a puppy grows. In fact even breeds which end up similar in size can grow at very different rates. There is very little scientific research — but a lot of anecdotal evidence — about when Lab puppies stop growing. In , a UK study following 37 Lab puppies through to adulthood revealed that all of them had reached their adult weight by their first birthday. But more recently, a much larger lifestyle study of over 4, UK Labradors found that their weight continued to increase between one and four years old. When Do Labs Stop Growing? The Labrador puppy growth chart finishes when the dog reaches adulthood. General wisdom from breeders, vets, and experiences Labrador owners is that Labs stop growing during their second year. In fact, he will be quite close to his final adult Labrador height at around nine months of age. Does color change the Labrador puppy growth chart? When is a chocolate Lab full grown? Is it the same time that a full grown black Labrador or yellow Lab? So your average chocolate Lab will be adult sizes at the same time as the average yellow or black Lab. How Quickly Do Labradors Grow? Our Labrador puppy growth chart shows that all Labrador puppies follow the same breed specific pattern of growth spurts and slower growth, even though the actual numbers on the scale will vary from individual to individual. The most rapid period of growth will take place in the first month or so after you bring him home. In , a study of Labrador puppies in Norway found that Labrador weight gain is most rapid at 89 days old in females, and 95 days old in males. So around the week mark. And Labradors usually reach half of their adult weight by the time they are 18 or 19 weeks old. How much do Labs grow after 6 months? Another trend you can see in our Labrador puppy growth chart is that Lab puppies gain weight much less rapidly after their 6 month birthday. Once your Lab has hit this milestone you can expect them to gain a little height, and probably continue to fill out for up to a year or so. In other words, the point when you Lab stops getting any taller. It is estimated that in the UK the average height at the shoulders of a male Lab is cm taller than the breed standard. Will my dog still grow after being neutered? Whether or not dogs should be routinely spayed or neutered is a subject which divides opinion. Labrador owners deciding whether and when to neuter usually end up with a lot of questions, few of which have straightforward answers. Many veterinary care providers and shelters advocate neutering at a young age, or even make it a requirement of the adoption contract. A study found that neutering before 37 weeks old is linked to very slightly more rapid growth, and neutering after 37 weeks leads to very slightly slower growth. How big do Labrador Retrievers get? As we all know, very few dogs fit the mathematical average — they are much more likely to occupy a range of normal sizes. But most of us like a more precise answer than that before we commit to sharing our home with a puppy. So, how big do Labs get? Labradors are remarkably variable in height and weight. The biggest male Labs can be almost twice the size of the smallest female ones. But you want me to give you some numbers, so here are some averages. Many adult female Labradors reach a weight of lbs and stand inches high at the shoulder. This will be the same whether they are a female chocolate Lab or a female black Labrador. Many adult male Labradors reach a weight of lbs and stand inches at the shoulder. But remember, your dog is probably not an average dog! Can you always predict size with a Labrador puppy growth chart? These Labrador height and weight numbers are very broad guidelines, and they may give you a rough idea of how big a pup will grow. How big your Labrador will get depends partly on his parents. Assuming that your puppy had healthy not overweight parents, their own weights will give you an idea of how big your Lab is likely to grow. But there are always surprises in any group or family of dogs! Has your puppy stalled on the Labrador puppy growth chart? It is possible that your puppy will weigh less than the average examples. Labrador puppy weight and size can vary widely depending on a number of different factors, many of which are normal and harmless. American Labrador puppy growth Labrador puppies from working stock are often less heavy than those bred for the show ring or pet homes. Dogs bred for hunting and field trials tend to be faster and lighter in build because they are expected to be agile and quick when working in the field. Small parents Size is also partly genetic. In other words, if your puppy had small parents he might well be on the small size for his age, throughout his life. Again, this is only a general guide. Even puppies from the same litter can vary quite considerably in size when plotted on a Labrador puppy growth chart. How much should my Labrador puppy weigh? But this kind of rule of thumb is of limited use, and there are problems with judging whether or not a puppy is thriving by his weight alone. Because it is so difficult to know exactly what size your puppy will be as an adult, no-one can really say what he should weigh today, or any other day. It may however give you an indication if your puppy is seriously under or overweight. It is rare for puppies to have any kind of growth disorder. Or for their families to starve them by mistake! But it is also normal to worry a little if your puppy seems on the small side. Is my puppy is too fat or too thin? The very best guide to whether a puppy is the right weight for him, is how he looks and feels. Not where he falls on an average Labrador puppy growth chart. Physically examining and observing your puppy will help you decide if they are doing ok in this respect. Just like older Labradors, puppies should not be too heavy. Most experts nowadays like to see a waist on even quite young puppies. Does it matter if my puppy is a bit plump? We all used to think that puppy fat was a good thing. When I was a child fat puppies were the norm. Perhaps this extra layer of fat was helpful in sustaining the puppy during illness before vaccinations were widely available for dogs? Nowadays, the thinking is that puppies should be slim. With a defined waist, just like an older dog. It causes their bones to grow too rapidly as well. And this may result in painful skeletal abnormalities in later life. Chubby Lab puppies might be plotted higher than average on the Labrador puppy growth chart, but if they are a shorter stature they could be following the line. You need to assess your pup by how they look and feel. Weighing your puppy If your puppy has been ill and is very thin, or if he has become rather overweight , you might consider weighing him in order to monitor his progress on a Labrador puppy growth chart of your own. If you can see his ribs, or feel them very easily just beneath his skin, your Labrador puppy is too thin. If in doubt, check with your veterinarian. You can show them your Labrador puppy growth chart too, so they have a good idea of how they are progressing. My dog weighs 35lbs at six months old. Is that OK? I mentioned above that an average Labrador might weigh around 50lbs at six months old. But there is huge variation around this figure. To illustrate how much very healthy puppies may vary, there are 6 month old Labs on our forum weighing 30lbs, and others weighing 60lbs! These are very different points on the same Labrador puppy growth chart, but could both be healthy animals. And the truth is, no-one can tell you exactly what your six month old pup should weigh, or indeed your Labrador of any age. What age does a puppy turn into a dog? When does a puppy no longer belong on a Labrador puppy growth chart but instead have reached their adult size? And when will your puppy be a fully grown up dog? There are three aspects to changing from puppy to dog: physical maturity and mental maturity. Sexual maturity in puppies People are often surprised to discover that puppies become sexually mature before they are full grown. These sexually mature pups still belong on the Labrador puppy growth chart, and will gain weight and height. Most Labradors are physically capable of breeding while still puppies. Though of course they should not be allowed to do so. Many female Labradors come into season for the first time between at between six and nine months old. Though some will be over a year old. And most male Labradors are ready and willing to mate well before their first birthday! Mental maturity in puppies Not only is your Labrador physically still a puppy when he or she reaches sexual maturity. He is also very much a puppy mentally and emotionally. In fact, many experts do not consider a Labrador to be fully grown up and mature until they are around two years old. In practice, there is no exact age at which you can definitely say your puppy is a grown up. Some puppies mature mentally and physically quicker than others. As a broad guide, you will often hear people use 18 months as the divide between Labrador puppy and adult dog. When do dogs stop growing? Most Labradors will have completed much of their growth by their first birthday and will stop growing completely before their second. Beyond this point there is no need to plot their weight on a Labrador puppy growth chart, but instead they should just be monitored physically. Weights vary greatly among individuals of this breed and puppy weight unless very extreme, is not a great guide to health. Enjoy your puppy for what he is, large Labrador or small. Just remember to check with your vet if you think he is unwell or not growing as he should. Is your Labrador puppy still growing? Do you think the runt of the litter is going to surprise you by reaching the upper end of the scale? Were your predictions at X months completely confounded? Share your anecdotes in the comments box down below! Labrador puppy weight. It can be hard to know what the right weight is for your specific pup. An American Lab is likely to weigh less than an English Lab in general, but not always! How much do Labs weigh in general? Male Labradors weigh between 60lbs and 80lbs, while females weigh in at between 55lbs and 75lbs. But many healthy Labradors fall outside these averages. As you can see, there is quite a range! Labrador Puppy Weight Lots of our readers want to know how much should my Labrador weigh at this age or that age. Labrador puppies are growing fast, and their weight is constantly changing. We used the data from our forum to create the Lab weight chart below. If you want a rough idea of how much your pup should weigh at different stages of their young life, just compare them to this chart and see how they match up. But remember, average Labrador weight is not totally straight forward… Average Labrador Weight Labradors come in a wide variety of sizes. So average Labrador Retriever weight figures can be misleading. As a very rough guide an adult female Labrador might weigh between 55 and 70lbs. An adult male Lab will weigh 65 — 80lbs. Female Lab weight will on average be lower than male Lab weight, but as you can see there is a considerable cross over. But Labradors also come in a couple of different types, and his type will have an impact upon his ideal Labrador weight. English Labs bred from show lines are likely to be at the upper end of the scale. You can expect English Lab weight to be around 60 — 70 lbs for a female and 70 — 80 lbs for a male. Some of our chunkier, show bred Labs can be a good twenty pounds or more heavier than their field bred cousins, without necessarily being overweight. Whereas the American Lab who is field bred is likely to be at the lower end of average. Volume for volume, muscle weighs more. So it is worth bearing in mind, that a very fit dog will have more muscle and may weigh more than an unfit dog of similar dimensions. Black Lab Weight In theory there should be no difference in weight between Labradors of different colors. Black Labrador weight for an English black Lab will probably be at the higher end of the range, for an American black Lab it will likely be lower. Black Labs are frequently found in both these categories, but some Lab colors differ. For example the chocolates. Chocolate Lab Weight Chocolate Labs are more likely to be show bred than field bred. English Labs weigh more than American Labs in general, and may therefore be at the higher end of average when it comes to weight. This is because yellow Labs are commonly found in both categories. White Labs are more likely to be English Labs, and will therefore probably be at the heavier end of the scale. Fox red Labs are normally American Labs, and will often be thinner in build and therefore lighter in weight. The way to effectively judge whether your Lab is at an ideal weight is not through the scales. It is by feel and appearance. You should not be able to see ribs, but if you press firmly along his sides you should just be able to feel your fingers bumping along them. But in most cases it really is not necessary to weigh your puppy every day, or even every week! Any more than you would weigh your three year old child on a daily or even weekly basis. There are however, some exceptions. Very thin puppies Occasionally we have people post up about puppies that are desperately underweight and clearly failing to thrive. Most of these comments come from people that have purchased puppies that are not ready to leave their mothers, and should not have been sold by the breeder. Some of these puppies are as young as three weeks old. If you have inadvertently been sucked into this horrible trade in underage puppies, do contact a vet for help with feeding your puppy, as a matter of urgency. If you are concerned that your puppy might be seriously underweight, again, your vet is the first port of call. As a very rough guide, many Labrador puppies will weigh around a kilo for every week of their lives. So you would expect a ten week puppy to weigh something in the region of ten kilos or around twenty-two pounds. A twenty percent variation around this would be fairly normal. If your puppy falls outside this variation he may still be perfectly healthy, but if you are inexperienced, a check with the vet is a good way to put your mind at rest. Should I Weigh My Dog? You may need to weigh your dog if he needs medical treatment. Determining the appropriate dose of some drugs requires that we know the exact weight of the patient. But in this case your veterinarian will probably do it for you at their check-ups and assessments. The main reasons to weigh a dog are loss or gain. Trying to put weight on a very thin puppy? You may want to check your progress with regular weigh-ins for a while to make sure they are sufficiently gaining weight. Trying to help your adult Labrador weight decrease? Checking their weight each week will help you to know that you are succeeding, along with visual checks. How to weigh a dog If you need to weigh a puppy, and he is small enough to hold in your arms, you can do this at home. Just weigh yourself on the bathroom scales without him, then weigh yourself again whilst holding the dog, and subtract the first weight from the second. This is accurate enough for most purposes. Larger dogs will need to be weighed on purpose built scales. Most vet surgeries have one in the waiting room, and some pet stores have them too. Really tiny dogs can be weighed accurately on a good sized set of kitchen scales. For once, this is a situation where appearances really do count. Try to get into the habit of looking at your dog objectively and of avoiding comparing with other dogs, many of whom will be overweight. You may find that some other dog owners will tell you your nice slim Labrador is actually too thin. This happens a lot, largely because people are simply getting used to so many dogs being overweight, including some of those receiving the highest accolades in our show rings. Again, if you are worried, check with your vet, but the chances are if someone is telling you this that actually your dog is healthy, and it is really their dog who is overweight. The Lab puppy weight chart shows you the average weight for male and female Labs every month from 2 months old, up until 12 months if you have a puppy Lab, check out our New Puppy Checklist to learn more about what to bring home for your first 24 hours and beyond. Doing so helps you and your veterinarian keep your puppy healthy. Are There Different Sizes of Labradors? Among the retriever breeds, the Labrador is one of the largest, where an adult male can top the scales at 80 pounds. Labrador Retrievers may differ in size due to individual variation and outside influences, such as the amount or type of food they eat, the amount or frequency of exercise they get, or underlying health conditions that may affect appetite or growth. But overall, a retriever should ideally hit a 5 out of 9 on the body condition score, regardless of the actual weight number on a scale. A healthy size Labrador has an evident abdominal tuck and observable waist, viewed from both the side and top of the dog. The AKC considers Lab puppies to be in adulthood when they reach 12 to 18 months of age, though there are outliers — those who grow faster or slower, reaching maturity either before 1 year old or not until 2 years old. Like other large dog breeds, Labs go through multiple stages of puppyhood until they reach adulthood. The average height for Labrador puppies is largely unknown due to insufficient data, but the average adult Labrador Retriever gets to be about inches tall at the shoulder. These numbers are contingent on the puppy receiving top-notch care, good nutrition, and appropriate levels of exercise. Different factors, such as health, breeding practices, and nutrition, may alter these estimated numbers. The below Labrador weight calculator can help you determine approximately how big your Labrador will be. But there are dogs who will fall outside of these parameters. The Waltham Petcare Science Institute offers puppy growth charts for veterinarians to use with their clients. You can also learn more about the ideal size and weight at different ages for different breeds with our Goldendoodle growth chart , a Golden Retriever size chart , Great Dane growth chart , or Chihuahua size chart. For that advice, consult your veterinarian. However, their weight can vary quite a bit. Male and female Labrador Retrievers vary slightly in size. According to the official breed standards of the AKC , males weigh about pounds, while females weigh pounds. Almost all dogs fall within this guideline, though there may be a few rarer dogs just on the outside of the weight guidelines. Because of how carefully bred these dogs often are, this is extremely rare, though. Male Labrador Retrievers stand between .Females stand at .As you can see, males Labrador Retrievers can be a bit larger than females, though they may not necessarily be. This is particularly true for American Labs. In other countries, the weight and height minimum for males is often higher than it is in America. What does a 4-month Labrador Retriever weigh? From their birth to about six months, Labrador Retriever puppies grow very rapidly. Right after birth, they often gain about two pounds a week or more. This rapid weight continues as the puppy ages. By four months, most Labrador Retrievers weigh about 25 pounds. Smaller dogs will often stay smaller at this point, while larger dogs often stay bigger. How big is a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever? Labrador Retrievers should continue to gain at least two pounds a week until they reach six months old. Most of them will gain even more than this, putting the average weight of a 6-month-old Lab at 50 pounds. That is double what they weighed at four months. However, six months does mark the end of this rapid period of growth. The average Labrador will typically start growing slower at this point, though they will still grow for quite a while. When is a Labrador Retriever fully grown? Most Labrador Retrievers reach their full height at around six to 12 months. Typically, they grow very quickly in the first six months of their life, but this growth slows down considerably after the sixth month. After that, they may still continue to gain a little bit of height, but their full adult height has basically been reached. Many dogs are often lanky during this period for this reason. However, once they reach their full height, the calories can be put towards muscle gain and fat storage. Too many calories can make the dog grow too quickly, which can cause hip dysplasia and other problems. Your dog will have plenty of time to bulk up. Because all Retrievers such as also Flat-Coated and Golden Retrievers are very food-motivated, you need to be careful to not overfeed your dog. Is a Labrador a medium or large dog? Technically, a Labrador Retriever can fall into either the medium or large category. They straddle the line as a breed. Individual dogs will either fall at the upper end of the medium category or rest just inside the large category. For this reason, they are often described as medium-to-large-sized dogs. What is a healthy weight for a Labrador? This depends on the dog. The health range for a Labrador is pounds if they are a male and pounds if they are a female. That is a large range. A dog that is naturally 55 pounds would be terribly overweight at 80 pounds. They will be able to accurately weigh your dog and determine if they are a healthy weight or not. Why is my Labrador so skinny? Many Labradors will appear skinny as puppies. It takes them until about the age of two to bulk up to their adult weight. They will bulk up naturally as they age. Gaining weight too fast can put unnecessary strain on their joints, which can cause health problems further down the road. It may seem that your Lab practically stops growing after about six months. However, they do have growth spurts after this, and they are all focused on muscle and fat gain. This especially applies if your Labrador is a senior dog that has stopped eating. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.