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Crafted for a fellow pet parent and features natural sweet potato treats, double-sided flannel bandana, an adorable, personalized bone-shaped ID tag, spray cologne, a handpoured Lemon Chiffon non-toxic soy candle to eliminate the odor exclusively made for this dog themed gift box! The gift box can be engraved with the dog's name and artwork - something really special that will take any gift to the next level! Perfect for storing keepsakes or can be repurposed as a stylish cache for anything special. Box size - 12x10x5". Order multiple boxes shipping to a single address, please contact us at info duskylark. We will add a handwritten tag with the recipient name on the shipping box to make sure that each gift box finds its owner. In case the recipient has some food sensitivities, please be sure to read all ingredients and allergens. Allergens: milk. Gift boxes ship within days. Each gift box goes out in a shipping box with air bubble wrapping so your order arrives at the final destination in the most pristine condition. No packing slip or invoice is included in the shipping box. Receipt will be directly emailed to you. Please note that we work with small-batch and local artisan businesses so certain items might become unavailable on occasion and without a lot of notice. In the event a product is unavailable at the time of your order, we reserve the right to substitute an item for a similar item of equal or greater value. This adds to the uniqueness and beauty of each gift box. Boxes are not painted or stained in any way, so the wood will show natural markings. Beautiful and functional, Bella Bowls come with a removable rubber base that makes them dishwasher safe, eliminates noise and prevents spills. Bella Bowls combine an attractive poly-resin exterior with a veterinarian-recommended stainless interior. Our Bella Roma travel bowl in Blue is ideal for easy traveling with your new furry friend. The bowl portion is bisphenol A BPA -free, and the patented design features a collapsible, integrated locking lid to store dry food easily. New Puppy Snacks and Treats Houndations treats in Chicken and Salmon are the perfect reward when teaching your puppy new skills or working to establish a schedule. These puppy treats are soft, small and bite-sized. Each package comes with a free carabiner that allows you to easily attach the kit to a leash or your belt loop for easy access. These trusted goodies are made with care in small batches. It's a must-have for new puppies because it prevents canine bloat and other serious health risks by acting as a simple solution for fast eaters. It has bone-shaped embossing on the surface, features raised edges for maximum spill capacity and cleans easily. Check out our impressive selection of high-quality dog bowls and diners , bones and chews , dog treats and adorable dog gift baskets. If you have cats or fish at home, we have goodies for them as well! Get your pet care packages from Loving Pets and make your pet feel like an important part of the family. Related Products.

They will want to be with you. Have a crate or bed next to your bed for at least the first few weeks while you get them into a Puppy night-time routine. Here is how to get a puppy to sleep through the night. Alone Training Teaching your Pug puppy that they can be totally fine being left alone can be done with stuffed chew toys, time and patience. Remember to do it slowly to avoid any stress! Toilet Training Training Practically every website you read may tell you that Toilet training your Pug puppy can be a challenge. As with alone training, start sooner rather than later. Of course, if they run into any birds, butterflies and hear planes flying over, it will be great for them to get acquainted already. Have fun gathering surfaces with different textures for them to explore, like synthetic grass, tiles, and soil. Use treats! Remember to use lots of treats and praise when training. They love making your tail wag! Repeat their name to them a lot in the first week, so it really starts to click. Recall — How to teach your Pug puppy to come back when called — This is important for safety. Pugs generally stay close, but they can be very friendly and want to run up to people and other dogs for a bit of a cuddle, so a good recall will always help. But they can enjoy fetch games on a smaller scale, get on the floor and interact and play with your Pug puppy to learn what they enjoy. This will help to avoid resource guarding. Husbandry Tasks Pugs love affection but should be handled with care. Be mindful to not treat them like toys. Not going to blame children to think they are toys though — the resemblance is uncanny. To do this we want to teach them that hands will do nice things to them so use plenty of treats when handling your puppy. Week 2 — Training your Pug puppy Week 2 already! Negative Reinforcement Positive Reinforcement First, as a general rule, remember that Pugs are dogs, not just lap pets, and need attention and daily exercise to feel content; a tired dog is far less likely to misbehave! Although Pugs are often very treat motivated see some of the best dog foods for pugs here , toys, play and affection can also be great incentives for your little snort monster, too. House training and Potty Training for Your Pug Pugs are not known for their speedy ability to learn proper toilet habits. They can often reach the age of 5 or 6 months before they truly get the hang of housetraining, and need toilet breaks overnight for a longer time than other breeds. Although this is perfectly normal, it can be very frustrating for some owners! Patience, consistency, a regular daily routine, and the use of an appropriately sized crate just big enough for your pup to stand, lay down and turn around are all excellent ways to help potty learning along. First, set an approximate routine for your Pug — they should be eating, playing, and having the opportunity to pee and poop in a designated area at roughly the same times each day. Puppies cannot be left along for long periods of time, either — most need a toilet break every two hours at least — and even adult pugs need to have the opportunity to go potty several times a day. My last adult pug was generally okay with going once in the morning and once at night. My new pug puppy at 10 weeks currently goes every hours. When you are out of the house, or otherwise not able to directly supervise your Pug, then a short rest time in their crate is a good idea to prevent house accidents — most dogs instinctively hate to soil their sleeping places. Do make sure to go out with your Pug to their toilet area during housetraining— this is so you can make a big fuss over them when they actually do toilet outside! Pugs are highly food motivated, Benji learned a host of tricks with food as a motivation! For owners of older puppies or adult Pugs who already mainly potty outside, training them to ring a bell beside the door is a great method to get them to communicate that they need to go out. For the first week or two, reward him clicker training works well here too each time he sniffs or touches the bell with his nose. I was lazy with cleaning it though, and in retrospect I would have used potty pads underneath the grass to ease the cleaning. Prong collars or choke chain leads are also a big no-no with Pugs for the same reasons. A front attaching harness most have a clip at chest level will let your pup move freely, as well as allowing you to redirect their front end and their attention back to you to prevent continued pulling. Puppia harnesses are super popular in the pug community. The best solution, though, is to teach your four-legged little friend to walk at your side. Use food or toys to reward your dog for staying at your side while walking. When they pull, stop walking and keep the leash still, then reward them for taking steps toward you or returning to your side. Soon, the two of you will make a great walking team! After doing some research, I found out that he uses this e-collar , as well as clicker training. In spite of their ability to leave chaos in their wake, however, Pugs are perfectly capable of learning appropriate doggie manners when consistent boundaries are set, and good behaviour is rewarded! There are two kinds of reinforcement that you can give to your Pug during training — either negative or positive reinforcement. Negative Reinforcement — This includes verbal or physical punishment or scolding, and the use of corrective collars like choke, prong or muzzle collars. If you punish your Pug for misbehaviour, he could inadvertently end up being afraid of you, the place where he was punished, or other people or dogs that were present while he was being corrected. Negative reinforcement training might lead to growling, biting, or other unwanted behaviours from your Pug. Positive Reinforcement — Remember how happy you were the last time someone gave you a compliment, or that time you got a work bonus for a job well done? Well, your Pug feels the same way — praise and food especially food! With this method of training, teaching your Pug obedience commands and good manners can be fun for both of you. When your dog is offering that behaviour regularly, you can add a spoken command word. Remember that all dogs, and especially Pugs, need a lot of patience during training — work in short sessions, and keep the tone fun and upbeat for success. To prevent naughty Pug antics like household destruction and counter surfing, initial dog-proofing tends to be the best prevention. You can also take the Alpha Dog approach , which Cesar Milan The Dog Whisperer uses, though controversial, it is effective because dogs, like wolves, are pack dogs. And respond to the leader of the pack the alpha. You asked super valuable questions and really listened to our concerns. You helped us to make a conscious choice about what is right for us and take the steps to determine that we were doing the right thing. Ultimately we decided we weren't ready to be a 2 dog family, and we're so glad to gain this insight before taking on a commitment to a second dog. Thank you so much for your advice and support. She has a really flexible approach to training and finds what works for you and your dog. They sent weekly reminders about the classes and would even send us a text before the class started. Tara was amazing and soooo great with buckwheat. Would happily go to another class that she was teaching. They are both incredibly knowledgable and professional in their approach, and both went out of their way to provide additional help and support. Our great dane has benefited immensely from this training and we couldn't recommend this service more highly! No more pulling! She gave me some great strategies to help with reactive behaviours and some really simple tricks which just make life so much easier. The one in one session was a great investment. Such a refreshing change from the outdated, harsh methods and so much more effective, and fun! I have been struggling with barking with my 6yr old anxious staffy for years. We felt like we had tried everything and Cassie came and it felt like she gave us those last few missing puzzle pieces. As soon as we started enacting her advice we have had a massive improvement and have not looked back since. 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Original Labrador Retriever Color Black is the original, archetypal Labrador color, and genetically the most dominant. Chocolate and yellow puppies were frequently euthanized at birth. To understand that we have to look at the genetic difference between black and chocolate Labs. Labrador Retriever Color Genetics Both types get their color from a pigment called eumelanin. Labs with lots of eumelanin pigment in their coat are black. If they have a little less, they appear brown instead. We use letters to tell each place apart — a bit like giving each locus its own zip code! The B locus is home to a pair of genes called B genes. There are two types of B gene your Lab can get in their pair: One we call big B — it contains an instruction to make lots of eumelanin, and causes a black Labrador coat. And one we call little b — it contains an instruction for less eumelanin, and causes a brown or chocolate coat. Big B is a dominant gene, and little b is a recessive gene. Dominant genes to switch off, or override, recessive genes. So dog with BB genes will be black, because he has two genes for a black coat. And a Bb dog will be black too, because the dominant B genethe recessive b gene. Only a dog with a matching pair of bb genes will express the instruction for less eumelanin in their coat, and be brown. Remember that the black dominant gene always switches of the brown gene, so only the dog with two copies of the b gene will actually look brown. But the dominance of the black color enabled our chocolate friends to remain hidden and rare with the breed, for many decades. Generation after generation of black dogs can continue to have only black puppies if dogs with the Bb gene are only ever mated to dogs with BB genes. In fact, it would take two black Labs both carrying the little b gene to produce chocolate puppies. Like this: Statistically, one quarter of their litter would be chocolate colored. And of course, some Labradors are neither black nor brown. The genetic information that creates a yellow coat comes from another pair of genes altogether. These genes are located at the E locus. And — you guessed it — we call them E genes. Just like B genes there are two versions of the E gene, big E and little e. Big E is the dominant gene. It does not interfere with the B genes. Little e is the recessive gene. It has the potential to mask the B genes that would otherwise give us black or brown coats. And the result is a yellow dog. How Yellow Overrides Black and Chocolate Only the little e gene can mask the instructions for black or chocolate fur. There are three possible combinations of E gene that a dog can inherit. It could have two dominant genes EE two masking genes ee or one of each Ee. Only the middle of these three dogs will be yellow. Nine Different Possible Labrador Genotypes! Every Labrador has a combination of B and E genes — called their genotype. There are nine different possible genotypes. Here they are in full: Can you see why each combination of genes turns out the way it does? Because as you can see, the second dog down the list may look black but he could throw brown puppies, and the fourth dog down the list may look black, but he could throw yellow puppies. The fifth dog down the list is also black but he could throw yellow and brown puppies. Puppy colors are easier to predict when both parents owe their appearance to the recessive genes b or e. Mating Two Yellow Labradors Two yellow Labradors mated together will never throw brown or black puppies. All their offspring will be yellow. This is because yellow dogs do not possess the big E gene which is needed to switch off the masking effect. Mating Two Chocolate Labradors Two brown Labs mated together will never throw black puppies because brown dogs do not have the big B gene. But two chocolate Labs can produce yellow puppies, if each of the parents carries the little e gene — like this: In the mixed litter, statistically one of half of the puppies will be chocolate and one half yellow. Depending on their genotype, two black Labradors can indeed have yellow or chocolate puppies. Remember from our grid above that there are four different possible genotypes for a black Labrador. The genotype refers to the genetic code that the dog carries. And the four different possible black genotypes down the side to represent the father. Inside the grid are the puppies that could be born from each combination. If and only if, both parents carry a little e gene, then some of the puppies may be yellow. Remember that your puppy needs two little e genes one from each parent in order to be yellow. If only one of two black dogs carries the little e gene, all their puppies will be black. Yes it is, check out the bottom right hand square in the diagram above! Notice that it can only happen if both parents dogs have this genotype: EeBb. In other words, they both carry a little e and a little b. This is good example of how complicated, and unexpected, Labrador colors can be. There are six different possibilities for litter color combinations depending on the genotype of the parents. You can even get a litter of all black puppies from a chocolate mother and a yellow father or vice versa! Here are the color possibilities: yellow, black, and chocolate puppies yellow and black puppies. Find out how we get chocolate, black or yellow puppies and what color pups we might get when we mix Labradors of different colors. Strictly speaking, there are only three different types of Labrador color: black Labs, brown Labs usually referred to as chocolate and yellow Labs. These are the three colors recognized and accepted by the Kennel Club In practice, there is a wide range of shades of yellow Labrador color, from palest cream to richest fox red. But what makes a Labrador brown, or black, or yellow. And what about Silver Labradors? Where does this new and controversial coat color come in to play? Where do Black and Chocolate Labradors come from? The information that determines whether or not your Labrador is basically black or basically chocolate is passed on through a pair of genes. Why black is a dominant color: It is normal for dominant genes to switch off, or over-ride, recessive genes. And that is exactly what happens here. A dog with BB genes will be black, because he has no little b gene, the one that gives us a brown coat. But a Bb dog will be black too, because if the dominant black gene is present, it switches off the brown gene. How chocolate Labradors are made: Even though a dog inherits a little b gene, the dog will only appear brown if no black gene B is present at all. Two black genes BB gives you a black Labrador One of each Bb also give you a black Labrador Two brown genes bb gives you a chocolate Labrador Remember that the black dominant gene always switches of the brown gene, so only the dog at the bottom will actually look brown. Generation after generation of black dogs can continue to have only black puppies if dogs with the Bb gene are only ever mated to dogs with BB genes. Remember, the dog in the middle of our list above will look black, but pass the brown gene on to about half of all its offspring. But things are never that simple are they? Because of course some Labradors are neither black nor brown. The genetic information that creates a yellow coat comes from another pair of genes altogether. And these genes have a different kind of power. The result is a yellow dog But little ee is recessive, and if the dominant E gene is present, it switches off the masking gene. It only takes one big E gene to do this. So the dog will only appear yellow if no big E gene is present at all. There are three possible combinations of eee gene that a dog could inherit. There are nine different possible combinations. Nine different possible Labrador genotypes! The chart below lists them genotype is the genetic makeup, phenotype is the appearance of the dog. Life Span Did You Know? Labrador Retrievers are one of the most popular dog breeds. The Chocolate Labrador Retriever is not a distinct dog breed from other Labs, but it is a separate coat color variation that is specifically bred for. Similar to the other standard coat colors of Labrador Retrievers, Chocolate Labs are energetic dogs that get along well in a family setting. As a Retriever, they also make great hunting dogs and have also been known to fill other working dog roles including service dogs, guide dogs, search-and-rescue dogs, and more. They are even one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units. A point of interest is that all modern Chocolate Labrador Retrievers can be traced to three specific Black Labradors that lived during the s. Chocolate Labs are industrious little pups. They were bred for retrieval and will often sniff about for something to get into. They are also one of the most affectionate dog breeds and absolutely love being with their favorite humans. Properly socialized and well-trained, Labs are one of the kid-friendly dog breeds. They get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. They are famously even-tempered and playful. This makes them fantastic dogs for a growing family, as they tend to be gentle and patient with little ones. They can have a high prey drive. They usually do well with small pets within the family that they have been raised with or socialized around, but likely will still have the urge to chase other animals while out and about. They also tend to be open and friendly with strangers. After all, strangers are just more people to give them attention and play with them. Chocolate Labrador Retrievers may be high-energy dogs, but they are also highly adaptable. They will thrive in homes with fenced yards where they can run freely. They can adapt well to apartment living as well as long as they get plenty of daily exercise, attention, and mental stimulation. Their natural urge to dig and bark when they are bored or agitated can be quelled with a little training and exercise. Although they can handle some alone time, Labs love to be with their families and thrive on attention from them, so they do not like to spend long periods of time alone. Chocolate Labs also have a water-resistant double coat that makes them well-suited for most habitable climates. As with most dogs, they are sensitive to heat. Although they can handle some cold and will likely love to play in the snow, they are not a snow dog breed and may need to bundle up while out on walks in areas with harsher winters. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a Chocolate Labrador Retriever can include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts, hereditary myopathy, and heart disease. There is also a condition with a genetic link called exercise-induced collapse EIC , which can occur in young adult Labradors. Carriers of this can be identified by DNA tests and it is advised that breeders test for this and avoid practices that would produce the disease. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies and reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of both parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a large, deep-chested dog breed, Labrador Retrievers are at a higher risk for bloat. Bloat in dogs can be dangerous and can quickly become fatal if the stomach flips gastric torsion. Chocolate Labrador Retrievers are incredible companions and are also one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. Their energy can make them a handful at times, but their intelligence, adaptability, patience with people, and eagerness to please make them easy to train. Labs are one of the smartest dog breeds , so they pick up on things easily. As long as training is consistent and focused on positive reward and praise, a Chocolate Lab will do their best to respond as expected and will often exceed expectations. Chocolate Labs have a short, water-resistant coat that will shed year-round. Brushing a few times a week, daily brushing during seasonal shedding, and the occasional bath are all that are needed to keep a Lab coat healthy and looking great. They may need baths more often if they are avid swimmers, go on a lot of outdoor adventures, and get dirty a lot. Floppy ears tend to trap dirt, moisture, and debris. Proper dental care for dogs is imperative to help prevent painful dental diseases like gum disease or tooth decay later in life. You can also supplement your dental care efforts with vet-approved dental hygiene chews. Labrador Retrievers are one of the most active dog breeds and need a lot of daily activity to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough, but your Chocolate Labrador will likely be up for more activity if you are. One of the facts about Labrador Retrievers is that they have an extended puppyhood and tend to maintain that puppy-like energy and maturity until they are years old. Swimming can be a great lower-impact activity and Labrador Retrievers are one of the dog breeds that tend to love water. Between that, their water-resistant coat, and webbed toes, you may have trouble getting your Chocolate Lab out of the water. Fully-grown Chocolate Labrador Retrievers usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Chocolate Labs generally live for years on average. Fourteen years later, the American Kennel Club did the same in .Featured Chocolate Labrador Retriever Article.

He is beautiful, loving, funny, and smart, and comes from a strong and healthy lineage. Marcellus was wonderful and supportive throughout the whole process. We love Buckeye Golden Retrievers so much! Marcellus is very responsive and professional! The facility is very clean and cozy. I would recommend Buckeye a million times over! Our Charlie girl is smart, cute, and such a joy in our lives! He is a spirited, loving, and playful boy who has brought so much joy to us all. I knew we were going to get a great puppy from the first time I spoke with them. Thank you so much! The 1 year health guarantee covers any major genetic defects such as a heart murmur. It does not cover treatable health issues. The remaining balance is due at pickup. We find great satisfaction in raising healthy, happy Goldens and placing them in your loving home! One of the most popular breeds in the United States, Golden Retrievers are eager to please and are great with children and other dogs. Additionally, Goldens are intelligent and skilled in whatever they do, whether serving as a therapy dog, aiding search-and-rescue, or being a devoted companion. Max Max is our handsome boy, an imported Jr Champion from Ukraine. Top of the line genetics and champion bloodlines make him an incredible addition to our breeding program. Max is intelligent and friendly, complementing his incredible physique and beautiful white coat! Max is available for stud service to qualified females. Skye comes from a long line of champions and is genetic tested clear. Skye has a happy go lucky personality and is a wonderful mother to her beautiful little snow white babies! She is truly a stunning European Golden Retriever! This mama is really great with children and other dogs and has been a wonderful asset to our breeding program. We kept two of her girls Maple and Bella to continue her incredible bloodline. Zoey loves nothing more than exercising and getting belly scratches! Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Golden Retrievers of Foxwater Farm Hi! I'm Mary English Cream Golden Retrievers For my husband and me, golden's have been near and dear to our hearts since and we've been breeding them since .That same year we began our search for a family dog. In the age before the internet, we conducted our search through conversations with other dog owners and veterinarians; as well as researching AKC literature on different dog breeds. We were looking for a laid-back, easily trainable, social dog that would be good with small children. The Golden Retriever appeared to be the perfect choice. We visited breeders and soon came home with our very first fluffy furry puppy, a Golden Retriever we named Joshua. The Golden Retriever turned out to be the most perfect choice! Since that day we have always had Goldens in our life. For the last 40 years we have been advocates for this breed and its beauty inside and out. We actively work to create the healthiest genetic line of Golden Retriever. Foxwater Farm is located just outside of London, Ohio. Our picturesque acre property is bordered by Oak Run and overlooks a small pond that has been great for fishing. The property also houses multiple mini tree orchards, an old Christmas tree farm, and seasonal gardens. We are so blessed to have dogs from different parts of the world in our current Golden Retriever family lines. We continue to keep a healthy line of dogs that are easily trainable as therapy dogs, capable of passing the Canine Good Citizen programs with ease and proven competitive in dog competitions such as Agility, Disc, Rally and Obedience. Additionally, we are proud to announce that one of our puppies has become an International Champion in the competition ring.

Sometimes, they can develop issues with their tails, either from genetically predisposed issues or from injury. Unfortunately, when it comes to purebred dogs like German Shepherds, there are genetically predisposed illnesses that you may have to deal with as their owner. Getting your German Shepherd from a reputable breeder is the best course of action, but even then, your GSD will still not be entirely immune from genetic issues or injuries. Tail problems are common issues in large dogs like German Shepherds. In this article, we look at three that you should know about. Anal Furunculosis Anal furunculosis is a hereditary condition in German Shepherds. The condition can be painful and uncomfortable for your pooch and is difficult to treat. It can become fairly severe if infection takes hold. The condition can be brought on by several different causes but has mostly been observed after immersion in cold water. The condition is not usually serious and can be treated at home with anti-inflammatories and rest, and your dog should fully recover after a few da Image Credit: cvop, Pixabay 3. Skin infections are easily spotted because there will typically be hair loss, redness, and itching. Topical or internal antibiotics prescribed by a vet are usually the best course of action. But the habit can become obsessive, at which point, you may have a problem. There are many causes for this habit, most of which are behavioral and thus can be stopped with proper training. Lack of exercise, insufficient space, stress, and anxiety may all be possible causes. Unfortunately, there are a few GSD owners who want their dogs to have the straight, powerful-looking tail of the GSD breed standard and opt for surgery, but this will not fix the issue and will cost a great deal of money in the process. Excessive Tail Wagging German Shepherds are known for wagging their tails all the time, and as such, they are fairly prone to tail-wagging-related injuries. This enthusiasm can cause them to knock their tails into things and cause bruises, cuts, or pulled muscles. Excessive tail wagging can be a symptom of stress or anxiety, but it is usually just due to a happy, excited pooch! See also:. Unlike some breeds, they carry it low naturally, and an agitated, swishing tail is not ideal. If it curls under the dog, instead of being held out naturally straight from the body, the dog may be anxious and nervous. Long-coated Shepherds will have a fluffy plume, whereas short-coated dogs will have a sleeker tail. They will be between 18 and 36 months old before you can truly judge their tail type. While the dog is still developing, it can have a longer or shorter tail. Here are some common ones to look out for. High tails: usually a sign of alertness and excitement Hanging tails: troubled or submissive feelings Straighter than normal: exploring, but a little cautious Semi-raised and slowly wagging: usually happy Low and slow wagging: usually means unhappiness or concern Raised and fast wagging: Excitement Low and slow wagging: lack of enthusiasm, but responsive Very broad wagging: enthusiastic Short, curtailed wagging: can be a sign of anxiety Neutral: the dog is simply relaxed, alert, and happy Wiggly and loose: a happy puppy! It can be a sign of a mixed breed dog or a dog with a gene fault at the tail. Can Tails Get Sore? As an expressive part of the dog, tails can get sore or injured. However, these are some more severe problems to watch out for: Anal Furunculosis: This is a fancy term for an inflammatory skin disease around the tail and bum. Skin Infections: Like the rest of the body, the skin here can get infected. Because the skin is tight over the tailbone, it can be tough to treat too. Noted issues include chewing, allergy scratching, and itching. Dog bites can get infected too. Always treat skin issues at the tail seriously. The tail swells and is painful, it comes on about a day after exposure to freezing surfaces. Why do Dogs Chase Their Tails? Is It Bad? Pups and adult dogs alike may chase their tails simply for fun. But sometimes, it can turn into obsessive behavior. Luckily, training can help, especially with distraction and refocusing on toys or activities. What are the bad reasons for tail chasing? Small Spaces: The German Shepherd is a big dog, so narrow spaces can upset them. Stimulation: If your dog is under-exercised and stimulated, they can obsessively tail chase from boredom. Genetics: They may have the habit in their blood, or have learned it from parents. Stress: Anxiety can cause very dangerous tail chasing that often ends in injury, and you need to get to the root cause of the issue. It can cue you into their moods, and help you to avoid issues before they start. Likewise, knowing more about the breed standard for their expressive tail can help you identify potential issues with your dog and understand more about what makes them tick—or should we say, wag! As such, they have to tell you what they feel and experience through body language, including positioning and wagging their tail. Here are 13 German Shepherd tail positions and what they mean: Tail raised high — alert and excited. Tail hanging down — troubled and submissive. Tail straight out — exploring and undecided. Tail low and wagging left — concerned or unhappy. Tail semi-raised and wagging right — happy. Tail raised and wagging fast — excited. Tail low and wagging slowly — lack of enthusiasm. Tail wagging with up and down broad strokes — very happy. Tail wagging in half-mast short strokes — anxious. Tail carried in a neutral position — relaxed. Tail loose and wiggly — happy. Tail held high and stiff — aroused and confident. Tail tucked between the legs — afraid. This article will explore these different tail positions in more detail so you can get to know your dog a little better. Hey there! As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We may also earn commissions if you purchase products from other retailers after clicking on a link from our site. The German Shepherd is quite creative at using its tail to communicate. It may be in a neutral, straight out, high, or half-mast position to convey arousal, relaxation, or anxiousness and can vary in meaning when accompanied by a fast or slow wag. A raised tail often comes with erect ears , which could be a sign that: The dog is ready to run and attack. The dog may make a move to face whatever is calling their attention. The dog may make a display of dominance. This is especially true if the raised tail is accompanied by very fast tail wagging, which appears to be vibrating. Stay alert when your German Shepherd has its tail raised high and vibrating as you may need to leash or crate them. If a slight wiggle or wag is added, your dog communicates appeasement. The dog could be meeting someone new — a person or dog — and is unsure what action to take. Your GSD could also be hearing noises whose meaning and origin they have yet to figure out. So when you see your German Shepherd with its tail straight out, just give it time to figure things out. I wanna chase the deer! She has seen some deer in the field, and her prey drive has kicked in! Research has shown that dogs tend to wag their tails to the right when happy, and the left side of the brain directs this tail movement. In fact, the mentioned research found that dogs wagged their tails to the right at the sight of their owner. It could be the joy of seeing you home again after work or of seeing you present his favorite food or toy, or when you arrive at a new place, and the excitement just takes over. However, your German Shepherd can show a fast wagging tail when anxious and ready for action in tense situations. The German Shepherd is meeting a strange dog and is unsure what role to take with the new conspecific. In either case, you should remove your German Shepherd from the uncomfortable situation. In this case, your German Shepherd will also accompany the tail wagging with other body signs of happiness like: A relaxed shaking of the entire body. A grin on its face. A soft open mouth. Your dog could also be showing a lack of enthusiasm and insecurity. If the half-mast short strokes are swift, your dog could simply be greeting and feeling tentative or hesitant about a move. Check out Willow in the above photo. Her tail is relaxed in its neutral position as she is undoubtedly chilled as she loves being in the woods. If the dog is relaxed and feeling extra happy, they may add a little wag to their loose tail. They may accentuate that with a side-to-side wag or in circular motion wags. Your German Shepherd will also have a loose and wiggly tail when the environment is relaxed, and if a gaze towards you accompanies that, they most likely want to play. Pay particular attention to your German Shepherd if it has a high and stiff tail combined with raised hackles , a wrinkled nose, and an open mouth with visible teeth. Together, these signs could be a warning to other dogs or strangers to back off. Your German Shepherd may be about to get aggressive. For example, your dog could be in pain or encountering someone or something that instills fear. The tail should be set smoothly into the croup or the rear end where the pelvis bone is and where the tail attaches to the rump. The tail is raised when in motion, and the saber-curve is emphasized, but not beyond a vertical line. That makes it easy for you to see the tail when you want to decipher the message that your German Shepherd is communicating with its tail position. Are you looking to buy something for your dog? Make sure to check out my favorite dog gear below. Just look at their tails! So, keep an eye out for tails that are just right! The natural tail is well-muscled and has a thick base croup. It typically hangs down when the dog is relaxed. This type of GSD tail is set high and carried in a slight curve that is pointed upward, but does not go over the back like in Huskies. You see, a natural tail is an important feature of this dog breed and is highly valued by breeders and dog show judges. We can see this type of tail in both German Shepherds and Dutch Shepherds. Your German Shepherd may be long-haired if he inherits this type of tail! A bushy tail is not typically associated with any health issues. Additionally, it is not considered a fault or disqualifying trait in dog shows! It can be passed down from mom and dad or just randomly pop up during puppyhood. This type of tail is commonly seen in many German Shepherd mixes. With all that in mind, puppies with sickle tails are not allowed to participate in dog shows as they are not purebred dogs. Straight Tail A straight tail in German Shepherds is a tail that is not as thick as a natural tail and does not curve at the end — it is completely straight. Well, it is not an unhealthy tail, it just indicates that there may be other breeds in the mix. For example, a Belgian Malinois German Shepherd mix is most likely to inherit a straight tail that is on the thinner side. The straight tail is set high, but it does not curve as a natural tail does. When your dog is excited or alert, he holds his tail straight out and you may notice a slight curve at the tail end. Docked Tail Ever heard of a German Shepherd with a docked tail? Neither have I! Even though your GSD was bred to be a working dog, tail docking is a no-no. This procedure deviates from the official breed standards and it is banned in some states. While GSD tail docking is not as common as Doberman tail docking , some breeders actually do this. And trust me, those breeders are not reliable nor reputable. However, a docked tail in adult dogs may indicate that they have been through tail injuries or infections. It is not unusual to see German Shepherds with completely curly tails, which can be caused by a genetic mutation, which can be a sign that the GSD is a hybrid dog. German Shepherd Tail Positions There are plenty of tail positions that can mean a lot and we may not understand them all. Wagging Tail A wagging tail in a German Shepherd can indicate that the dog is happy and friendly. Tail wagging can also be a sign of GSD anxiety or aggression, depending on the speed and direction of the wag. A stiff tail can be tricky as it can show dominance, signs of fear or anxiety, and confidence. Tucked Tail A tucked tail can be a sign that the German Shepherd dog is feeling scared , threatened, or that it is trying to make himself appear smaller and less threatening. It is a common sign of submissive behavior which can lead to German Shepherd aggression. The tucked tail can also mean that your dog is feeling pain or discomfort, especially if it is followed by GSD whining , panting, or limping. Anal Furunculosis Is your dog scooting around the house? He may be suffering from anal furunculosis , a common problem in this dog breed. This is important to know if you are purchasing a German Shepherd dog for a specific purpose or goal. In this case, you would be smart to choose a breeder that specializes in either the American or West German show GSD breed line. This is because show lines are bred for appearance and conformation. In contrast, working GSD lines are bred for personality and temperament traits. Appearance is always secondary. As you can see in these photos from the breeder cited here earlier, the working dog breed lines typically have thinner tails and sometimes the tails are curled, which could result in points off or disqualification in the show dog ring. Earlier here we mentioned that German Shepherds as a general rule can take a longer period of time to mature. The best way to know how long your German Shepherd will take to reach their full adult size and conformation is to learn as much as you can about the parent dogs. As the official GSD breed standard explains, adult German Shepherds can range in size from 65 to 90 pounds and stand anywhere from 22 to 26 inches tall paw pads to shoulders. As well, depending on the breed line your GSD puppy comes from, it can take anywhere from 18 months to 36 months to fully mature. As well, the breed line can influence the time to maturity, with the East German and Czech lines taking the longest in general to mature. Alternately, it could be that your puppy just comes from a breed line that takes longer to mature and you have a bit longer to wait before that fluffy, bushy tail fully grows in. The puppy coat is much softer and fluffier. It is also single-layer and is missing the second insulating under-layer these dogs grow as adults. The puppy coat will start to shed out around the four to the six-month mark. The shedding out period signals the start of the adult coat growing in. The adult German Shepherd coat is double layer. There is a longer, coarse, water-resistant outer layer that ranges from medium to long. Then there is the insulating, soft inner layer that lays close to the skin. However, this whole process can take some time and depend in size and breed line, as we emphasized here earlier. This often happens at the changing of the seasons. This is not anything to worry about.

The down command is the next natural step being very easy for both you as the trainer to teach, and for your dog to understand and do well with. Remember, we want to set our dogs up to win when training, we want to start gently with the very basics to build their confidence. Teaching the down command is one such way to do this. The down command is an incredibly useful tool providing a way to manage and control your Golden when necessary and will serve you both well throughout your life together. In this article I teach two highly effective yet simple to follow techniques you can use to train your Golden to get into a down position: Luring and capturing. Follow along and I can promise you will find success in no time…and have fun along the way. When Can It Be Used? There are many situations in every day life when you can use obedience commands and the down is possibly the most useful. Here are just a few of the reasons for which the down command is so useful: Massive safety benefits to nail them to the spot if a dangerous situation is forming. For instance if your dog is on the other side of a road, about to cross and a car is coming you can command a down until safe and then call or go to get them. For instance if your Golden is the type to chase a motorbike or squirrel, when in a sit they can explosively bolt in an instant. But they are calmer in a down, less poised for action and so it takes more to go from a down to a run, giving you greater opportunity to interrupt and correct them. A down is more relaxed than a sit and dogs will find it easier to hold a down for far longer than a sit. So if you need your dog to stay in one spot for any length of time, the down is the perfect command to use when you need them to stay put. If your Golden is getting too boisterous around children or other dogs, ask for a down and it will calm them and take the edge off their boisterous energy. Basically, the down position is overall calming. But more than anything, a dog in a down cannot run off, jump up on people, chase another animal or dart into traffic. Some Tips And Rules To Follow When Training The Down Command For the first few sessions when the down command is new to your dog, hold the training at home in a familiar room with no distractions to make it easy as possible for them to succeed. Sound friendly yet authoritative, not frightening. For the best results, train the down command after your Golden has enjoyed some exercise and before their dinner. You should train a release command. Please use different commands for each behavior, otherwise it can cause confusion, make them harder to learn and be less effective. Always be upbeat and happy when training, keeping it fun. And finish before your puppy gets bored so they enjoy the experience and look forward to your training sessions together. Just 5 or so minutes, 2 or 3 times per day is plenty for a puppy and you can increase the number of sessions and duration as they grow. We only have to make them do so on command. Our aim is to train our Golden Retriever to lie down completely when we ask, with their belly touching the floor and their front legs stretched ahead of them. No bum in the air, not merely crouched, but all the way down, belly to the floor. And then they should wait for us to release them. As with all training there are many techniques and methods you could use. In this article I will concentrate on the two most simple which are both kind, positive and highly effective: Luring and capturing. The whole movement of the lure is straight down, and then away from them, in an L-shape not a diagonal. To follow the treat your puppy will have to lower themself and they should drop into a down position. TIP: If starting from a standing position, some dogs will simply walk forward to follow the treat along the ground instead of getting into a down. If this happens, get them into a sit first so their bum is already on the floor, then lure them into a down. So we want to progress to training a hand signal to use from a standing position. After a few training sessions where you have the treat in your hand, lure them into the down position with an empty hand, using exactly the same motion, but with no treat. Still treat them, just not from your luring hand. Go down to an inch above for 2 training sessions. In time you will be able to use the signal while completely standing, not having to bend down at all. This is the internationally recognized hand signal for a down. All dogs will lie down at some point eventually, all you have to do is be there and watching to capture it. Remove all toys and anything of interest to encourage boredom and for your dog to lie down. Now you just wait. Step 2 With nothing exciting happening and nothing else to do, eventually your dog will lie down. Step 3 Your dog is now likely to offer different behaviors, attempting to get another reward. Just ignore them completely until they offer a down again. As soon as they do, mark the behavior again and throw another treat. Step 4 When they are offering the down regularly, you can start adding a cue. Physical coercion for a sit is both easy to do and very gentle if done as described. But forcing a dog into a down is not. I promise you will succeed with these methods plus a little patience and dedication. At first, use the command when your dog is already rising for a few training sessions, capturing them getting up. Then start to train the down command and when they start to rise, interrupt them and put them back into the down position. If they ignore the release word, you can easily lure them up with a treat. This will almost never fail. Try to go for longer and longer durations of a down before you release them as your training progresses. More on this a little later. Phasing Out Food Rewards As discussed in previous articles, you simply must phase out the food rewards and cannot treat them every time forever. As the first stage of phasing out food rewards, start to ask for more before you give a treat. Only treat the best downs. Then ask for a combination of behaviors before treating sit, down, sit then treat , and eventually treat just at random times, sometimes for a sequence of 3 behaviors and sometimes for 6. You can ask for a sequence of behaviors and give them a favorite toy, game of tug or literally anything your puppy likes. Your end goal is to make rewards truly random. Sometimes food, but often something else. Sometimes for one behavior, sometimes for a sequence of 6. Proofing And Generalizing The Down Command To make any new command or behavior reliably trained and useful, you have to proof and generalize it. Proof it by adding distance, duration and distractions, and generalize it by practicing the command in many different types of environment. The general rule is that you add one at a time of either duration, distance or distractions, otherwise it will be too hard and your dog may begin to fail. Once there, increase the duration by 5 seconds each session until you get to 5 minutes, then increase by 30 seconds, eventually working up to half an hour and beyond. You would do this while sat watching TV or other times you yourself are sat calmly. And it will take months of slow progression to work up to this level. After adding duration, you can start trying to add distance to the command. To do so, ask for a down and take a step away before releasing. Then two steps, three steps and so on. For distractions, you can have family members walking around, other dogs nearby, eat some food nearby and maybe even scatter food around them eventually — after lots of building up to it! For generalizing, practice all the above at home, in friends houses, down the park, in town, anywhere you can think of. The idea is that by increasing either distance, duration or distractions one at a time and in different situations, you slowly increase the difficulty and soon enough you will be able to have your dog reliably lie down and stay until you release them, in any real life situation. Conclusion Once properly trained, the down command is possibly the most useful of commands that offers you a lot of control to keep your Golden out of trouble and keep them safe when you need to. A dog in a down is a dog that cannot bolt, chase, jump up or get into trouble of any kind. You should train the down command as soon as you start obedience training, right after your Golden has learnt to sit. To achieve a well-mannered and obedient dog, you simply must be able to put them into a down until released, no matter the environment and distractions nearby. By applying the techniques described in this article, with patience and dedication you will accomplish this in no time. You May Also Like. In this adorable photo print, we witness the epitome of puppy cuteness as a golden retriever baby peacefully rests on blue gingham, donning a charming nightcap. With its eyes closed and tiny paws tucked under its fluffy body, this little furball exudes pure contentment. Captured on January 27th, , inside a cozy studio setting, the digital manipulation adds an extra touch of whimsy to the image. The striped nightcap perfectly complements the pup's soft golden fur and creates an endearing visual contrast against the blue background. As we gaze upon this sleepy canine companion, it's hard not to feel our own eyelids grow heavy with drowsiness. This wee Willie Winkie look-alike seems ready for dreamland after a day filled with playful adventures and endless tail wagging. Whether you're a dog lover or simply appreciate heart-melting moments captured in photographs, this print is sure to bring warmth and joy into any space. Hang it on your wall or place it on your desk - let this precious golden retriever puppy remind you that even in slumber, life can be incredibly cute! In Stock - Available Now! Zoomed Pictures can be adjusted in the Cart. We're honored to be the host of these phenomenal moments," to which the original poster replied: "We will definitely be back. After all, they are a dog breed that has a lot of hair. This large amount of hair can cause them to get hotter quicker, but they may feel cool when their underside is exposed. Sleeping upside down. Stock Image. Golden Retrievers reportedly sleep upside down as it cools them off. This makes it easier for them to be submissive to those around them when golden retrievers sleep on their back. S in .It's not hard to see why when they are committed workers when hunting and doing field work, guides for the blind and handicapped , proficient in search and rescue scenarios, enjoy being obedient and competitive events, are relatively easy to train and are a joy to be around when not at work. User Tommy commented: "When the sun hits perfect and you feel safe. They don't stay little for long, so keep holding him as long as you can. Do you have funny and adorable videos or pictures of your pet you want to share? Send them to life newsweek. Read more.

However, you can encounter several other Labrador colors thanks to genetic variation and different breeding practices. Below are six of the most common color varieties. Black Labrador Since four out of nine potential Labrador color gene variations result in a black coat, black Labs are the most common coat color in Labradors. So, the takeaway here is that black Labs are always the dominant coat color. People love black Labs for their soft, shiny coats. The black Labrador pose for a photoshoot! Yellow Labrador Yellow Labs come in as the second most common color after black Labradors. Unlike black Labs, which have an unmistakable, predictable color, yellow Labs can come in many different shades. The genetic makeup of yellow Labradors includes one-third of the possible Lab color combinations. The genetic codes include eeBB, eeBb, and eebb. A Labrador sniffs a smoked dog bone 3. Chocolate Labrador Chocolate Labs are the rarest of the three primary Labrador colors. There are only two genes that will produce these dogs—EEbb and Eebb. As with yellow Labs, chocolate labs vary significantly in their coat color. Some chocolate labs have a light brown coat, others a medium brown, and some are even so dark that they appear mixed with black and brown. Aside from their genetic predisposition to an earlier death, these dogs can also suffer from the same issues as other Labs, including patellar luxation, osteochondritis dissecans, and canine hip dysplasia. So, if you have your heart set on buying a chocolate Lab, keep in mind that you may lose your best four-legged friend about 1. A chocolate Labrador Retriever having its coat brushed 4. They get their dark, reddish coat from the same gene as yellow Labs. But since yellow Lab genes can present a wide variation in yellow colors, it causes some puppies to enter the world with an almost red coat. Red Fox Labrador Retriever looks up. Silver Labrador You might have trouble recognizing a silver Lab as a Labrador when they walk by, given that this is such a distinct color deviating from the three primary colors. And, unfortunately for silver Labs, these dogs are a color variation from chocolate Labs. Another issue that silver Labs frequently face is color dilution alopecia. Alopecia is a condition when the immune system harms hair follicles, which leads to skin issues and hair loss. So, should you be interested in breeding your Labrador, please be responsible and never breed a silver Lab. Silver Labrador Retriever sitting in the forest. Like red fox Labradors, white Labs have the same genetic makeup as yellow Labs. Nevertheless, no one will mistake these dogs for pure white; they almost always retain a light cream-colored look, thanks to some yellow fur. Albinism is a life-threatening and rare genetic condition resulting from a lack of pigmentation. Albino Labs often die young and suffer from conditions like blindness and deafness. A white Labrador Retriever sits quietly. If you think mating two black Labradors is a guarantee for producing black Lab puppies, think again. Black is a dominant gene in Labs, but the color yellow always overrides black and chocolate. Instead, check out the chart below to see the puppy colors from mating different colored Lab parents. Parent Colors. Their fun-loving and positive personalities combined with their gentleness and willingness to please their owners makes them the perfect family pet. Statistically speaking, Black Labs are the most common of all Labrador color variations. This is due to how coat color is inherited in this breed. Without getting too far into a scientific explanation for this, there are nine different possible gene combinations for coat color. Four of these lead to a black coat, three to yellow, and only two to chocolate. Due to random chance, Black Labs make up nearly half of all Labradors. Yellow Labs often have a very light brown or tan colored coat that can appear yellowish. Chocolate Labrador Image Credit: skeeze, Pixabay The rarest of the three major Labrador colors, the Chocolate Lab is beautiful and adorable with a deep brown, chocolate-colored coat. Chocolate Labs are regarded as the most energetic and hardest to train, and while there is no research-based evidence to support this, Chocolate Labs are the only Labs not used as service dogs by the leading dog training organizations. This is possibly due to a higher energy level. Their absence from service dog institutions may also be due to the fact that Chocolate Labs experience more health problems and tend to have shorter lifespans than their Black and Yellow counterparts. On average, Chocolate Labs live about a year and a half shorter than other colored Labs. Simply put, they have the genetics of a Yellow Lab but present a darker coat that appears reddish. White Labs usually have very pale brown fur that can appear purely white, especially in the sun. Their fur normally has light brown or yellowish tinges around the ears and paws. Albino Labs do carry additional health problems such as deafness, blindness, and other eye issues. Austin, Shutterstock Silver Labs are stunning, regal, and sleek. Their light grey coat shines beautifully in the sun, and their appearance is as striking as it is adorable. These pups are similar to Red Labs in that they have the same genetics as one of the major three Lab colors. Silver Labs are really Chocolate Labs, even though they may look more like Blue Labs, but their coat is light or diluted, and the result is a silvery appearance. Like their chocolate siblings, Silver Labs, unfortunately, inherit some additional health issues and tend to live shorter lives than Black and Yellow Labradors. Defining Physical Characteristics What is it that makes this breed so recognizable? Labs are often stocky and athletic with a broad chest and a thick, wide skull. Labs have short, dense fur that is water-resistant. In fact, they were named after the Labrador Sea off of Newfoundland where they were originally bred to retrieve waterfowl. No matter where they go, Labs seem to bring joy and happiness with them. They are loyal, loving, and affectionate. What more could you ask for in a dog? Labs have short, dense fur that is prone to heavy shedding and matting, so you should plan to brush your Labrador at least two or three times a week to cut down on shedding and keep their fur looking sleek. Labradors of all coat colors should be bathed about once every other month with a dog-friendly shampoo. Bathing more often can eliminate those healthy skin oils we mentioned, so avoid giving your pup a bath more often unless they find their way into some mud. Final Thoughts Labs come in three main colors but can have lots of different coat shading that makes them appear unique and especially striking. See also:. Find out how we get chocolate, black or yellow puppies and what color pups we might get when we mix Labradors of different colors. Strictly speaking, there are only three different types of Labrador color: black Labs, brown Labs usually referred to as chocolate and yellow Labs. These are the three colors recognized and accepted by the Kennel Club In practice, there is a wide range of shades of yellow Labrador color, from palest cream to richest fox red. But what makes a Labrador brown, or black, or yellow. And what about Silver Labradors? Where does this new and controversial coat color come in to play? Where do Black and Chocolate Labradors come from? The information that determines whether or not your Labrador is basically black or basically chocolate is passed on through a pair of genes. Why black is a dominant color: It is normal for dominant genes to switch off, or over-ride, recessive genes. And that is exactly what happens here. A dog with BB genes will be black, because he has no little b gene, the one that gives us a brown coat. But a Bb dog will be black too, because if the dominant black gene is present, it switches off the brown gene. How chocolate Labradors are made: Even though a dog inherits a little b gene, the dog will only appear brown if no black gene B is present at all. Two black genes BB gives you a black Labrador One of each Bb also give you a black Labrador Two brown genes bb gives you a chocolate Labrador Remember that the black dominant gene always switches of the brown gene, so only the dog at the bottom will actually look brown. Generation after generation of black dogs can continue to have only black puppies if dogs with the Bb gene are only ever mated to dogs with BB genes. Remember, the dog in the middle of our list above will look black, but pass the brown gene on to about half of all its offspring. But things are never that simple are they? Because of course some Labradors are neither black nor brown. The genetic information that creates a yellow coat comes from another pair of genes altogether. And these genes have a different kind of power. The result is a yellow dog But little ee is recessive, and if the dominant E gene is present, it switches off the masking gene. It only takes one big E gene to do this. So the dog will only appear yellow if no big E gene is present at all. There are three possible combinations of eee gene that a dog could inherit. There are nine different possible combinations. Nine different possible Labrador genotypes! The chart below lists them genotype is the genetic makeup, phenotype is the appearance of the dog. Original Labrador Retriever Color Black is the original, archetypal Labrador color, and genetically the most dominant. Chocolate and yellow puppies were frequently euthanized at birth. To understand that we have to look at the genetic difference between black and chocolate Labs. Labrador Retriever Color Genetics Both types get their color from a pigment called eumelanin. Labs with lots of eumelanin pigment in their coat are black. If they have a little less, they appear brown instead. We use letters to tell each place apart — a bit like giving each locus its own zip code! The B locus is home to a pair of genes called B genes. There are two types of B gene your Lab can get in their pair: One we call big B — it contains an instruction to make lots of eumelanin, and causes a black Labrador coat. And one we call little b — it contains an instruction for less eumelanin, and causes a brown or chocolate coat. Big B is a dominant gene, and little b is a recessive gene. Dominant genes to switch off, or override, recessive genes. So dog with BB genes will be black, because he has two genes for a black coat. And a Bb dog will be black too, because the dominant B genethe recessive b gene. Only a dog with a matching pair of bb genes will express the instruction for less eumelanin in their coat, and be brown. Remember that the black dominant gene always switches of the brown gene, so only the dog with two copies of the b gene will actually look brown. But the dominance of the black color enabled our chocolate friends to remain hidden and rare with the breed, for many decades. Generation after generation of black dogs can continue to have only black puppies if dogs with the Bb gene are only ever mated to dogs with BB genes. In fact, it would take two black Labs both carrying the little b gene to produce chocolate puppies. Like this: Statistically, one quarter of their litter would be chocolate colored. And of course, some Labradors are neither black nor brown. The genetic information that creates a yellow coat comes from another pair of genes altogether. These genes are located at the E locus. And — you guessed it — we call them E genes. Just like B genes there are two versions of the E gene, big E and little e. Big E is the dominant gene. It does not interfere with the B genes. Little e is the recessive gene. It has the potential to mask the B genes that would otherwise give us black or brown coats. And the result is a yellow dog. How Yellow Overrides Black and Chocolate Only the little e gene can mask the instructions for black or chocolate fur. There are three possible combinations of E gene that a dog can inherit. It could have two dominant genes EE two masking genes ee or one of each Ee. Only the middle of these three dogs will be yellow. Nine Different Possible Labrador Genotypes! Every Labrador has a combination of B and E genes — called their genotype. There are nine different possible genotypes. Here they are in full: Can you see why each combination of genes turns out the way it does? Because as you can see, the second dog down the list may look black but he could throw brown puppies, and the fourth dog down the list may look black, but he could throw yellow puppies. The fifth dog down the list is also black but he could throw yellow and brown puppies. Puppy colors are easier to predict when both parents owe their appearance to the recessive genes b or e. Mating Two Yellow Labradors Two yellow Labradors mated together will never throw brown or black puppies. All their offspring will be yellow. This is because yellow dogs do not possess the big E gene which is needed to switch off the masking effect. Mating Two Chocolate Labradors Two brown Labs mated together will never throw black puppies because brown dogs do not have the big B gene. But two chocolate Labs can produce yellow puppies, if each of the parents carries the little e gene — like this: In the mixed litter, statistically one of half of the puppies will be chocolate and one half yellow. Depending on their genotype, two black Labradors can indeed have yellow or chocolate puppies. Remember from our grid above that there are four different possible genotypes for a black Labrador. The genotype refers to the genetic code that the dog carries. And the four different possible black genotypes down the side to represent the father. Inside the grid are the puppies that could be born from each combination. If and only if, both parents carry a little e gene, then some of the puppies may be yellow. Remember that your puppy needs two little e genes one from each parent in order to be yellow. If only one of two black dogs carries the little e gene, all their puppies will be black. Yes it is, check out the bottom right hand square in the diagram above! Notice that it can only happen if both parents dogs have this genotype: EeBb. In other words, they both carry a little e and a little b. This is good example of how complicated, and unexpected, Labrador colors can be. There are six different possibilities for litter color combinations depending on the genotype of the parents. You can even get a litter of all black puppies from a chocolate mother and a yellow father or vice versa! Here are the color possibilities: yellow, black, and chocolate puppies yellow and black puppies.

This high protein dry puppy food contains percent of the essential nutrients puppies require to grow big and strong, and the delicious taste gives him a reason to clean his bowl at every feeding. Tend to your growing pup's nutritional needs through the vital early stages of his development with this dry puppy dog food, and take comfort in knowing he's getting a highly digestible dog kibble formula he's sure to look forward to every day. So dish up a serving of this Purina Puppy Chow dog food, and let him know you care about his health and happiness. Purina Puppy Chow Complete high protein puppy food provides the Building Blocks of puppy nutrition to help lay the foundation for a healthy, active life. Report incorrect product info. Ingredients: whole grain corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, beef fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols, soybean meal, barley, egg and chicken flavor, ground rice, chicken, poultry and pork digest, mono and dicalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, fish oil, salt, potassium chloride, soybean oil, choline chloride, minerals [zinc sulfate, ferrous sulfate, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, calcium iodate, sodium selenite], l-lysine monohydrochloride, vitamins [vitamin e supplement, niacin vitamin b-3 , vitamin a supplement, calcium pantothenate vitamin b-5 , pyridoxine hydrochloride vitamin b-6 , vitamin b supplement, thiamine mononitrate vitamin b-1 , vitamin d-3 supplement, riboflavin supplement vitamin b-2 , menadione sodium bisulfite complex vitamin k , folic acid vitamin b-9 , biotin vitamin b-7 , yellow 6, l-ascorbylpolyphosphate vitamin c , yellow 5, dl-methionine, red 40, blue 2, garlic oil. Shipping details Estimated ship dimensions: 5. This item must be returned within 90 days of the date it was purchased in store, shipped, delivered by a Shipt shopper, or made ready for pickup. See the return policy for complete information. Q: How many cups per pound of Puppy Chow? Or how many cups in the .Thank you for asking! Nutrition information With only six ingredients, puppy chow muddy buddies is extremely quick and easy to whip up, making it the perfect recipe for the busy holiday season. Puppy chow ingredients This sweet snack mix is made of six super simple ingredients! The best part? You probably have all of the ingredients on hand already. All of the ingredients are staple pantry and fridge items that all have a long shelf life. Rice chex cereal makes the base of this recipe and makes this snack mix super crunchy and addicting. Semi-sweet chocolate chips. Peanut butter gets melted together with the chocolate chips and creates an amazingly creamy mixture that coats the cereal. Use smooth peanut butter — instead of chunky — to ensure even melting. Unsalted butter. Vanilla extract. Powdered sugar. Set aside. Place chocolate chips, peanut butter, and butter into a large microwave safe bowl or measuring cup. Melt until smooth, then stir in vanilla extract. Pour chocolate mixture over the cereal and gently stir together. Stir in the powdered sugar. Tips for making puppy chow muddy buddies There are SO many recipes for puppy chow, but I promise you, my recipe is the best, because of these tips and tricks. Use the whole box of cereal. Most recipes call for 9 cups of cereal, leaving 2 cups left in the box. What the heck are you supposed to do with 2 cups of chex?! Use the whole bag of chocolate chips. More is more in this recipe. Just throw the whole bag in. Use more powdered sugar than you think necessary. Chunks are the best part. Just trust me on this one. How to store puppy chow Puppy chow can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to a week. It does not need to be refrigerated, but some people prefer it chilled. Puppy chow recipe substitutions If you can, I highly recommend making the recipe as is. It truly is the perfect combination of crunchy, sweet, chocolate-y, peanut buttery goodness. Do I have to use semi-sweet chocolate? You can use dark chocolate or even milk chocolate, but semi-sweet is really gives you that perfect sweet, but not too sweet balance. Processed peanut butter — think Jiff or Skippy — works best, but sunflower seed butter should work as well. Butter is essential, but try using a vegan buttery spread instead. Do I need to use vanilla extract? No, you can omit it, but you will loose some of that cozy depth of flavor. I grew up calling it puppy chow but plenty of people call it muddy buddies. It depends on where you live. Other names:.

Print The dreaded 3-month-old puppy I really enjoy young puppies. Seven- to week-old puppies can be so much fun and while they can be trouble, it is easy to contain them. But when a puppy turns weeks-old…. Three-month-old puppies start feeling good about themselves. They think they have the world all figured out and they will get into everything and run circles around you, even after being scolded or punished. Here is what you need to know about training your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post five of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba at 12 weeks old Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week five home Bubba should have been named Spunky because she is a handful. She runs around our home with her head and tail high, like she is all that. She pulls our shoes out of the organizer, chews on closet doors and digs and splashes in her water dish. So is the life of a 3-month-old Lab puppy. Patience is required to raise young lab pups. They will give you a run for the money. Even the well-behaved ones. No one escapes the terror of the 3-month-old Lab. So, how can you survive this time. Firm and well-defined boundaries that are enforced endlessly. Now is not the time to give up on training your puppy. It is the time to buckle down and show your puppy that there are rules and boundaries, and they must be obeyed. You puppy can and will learn the rules if you are firm and consistent in your corrections. Whatever you do, do not allow the puppy to do whatever it wants with no corrections. That is not being a good puppy mama or dad and it is really not fair to the dog, because training will require much more pressure and correction when the dog is bigger and stronger. Here are the things we worked on this week for training of Bubba. Crate training Bubba is now completely at home in her crate. She remains in her crate a full 4-hours at a time without accidents, is quiet while in there and walks into her crate on a KENNEL command from feet in front of the crate. Bubba will come to me when called, even when she knows that she is going into the crate. While there are still some consistency issues to work on, Bubba is well crate trained at this point. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking is such a difficult job. You will have periods when the puppy is doing so well that you will think you are done. And then, when you least expect it, your puppy will have an accident right in front of you. Bubba has been good at housebreaking. She has had less than a half-dozen accidents in the house and all of them pee accidents. She has never pooped in the house. So, we thought she was pretty much house broke. Then suddenly, she just up and peed right on the dog bed. Housebreaking is always an ongoing process, and we know that over time the accidents will become less and less. Looking for more information on housebreaking? Obedience training your week-old puppy With any dog training, obedience is key! She will SIT on command about 90 percent of the time. The only time we really have issues is when there is a lot of distractions. That is normal for a puppy of her age, but that does not mean that we just allow her to be disobedient when there are distractions. Rather, we look for distractions and then train through them. This is very important because you do not want your dog to just be obedient when everything is calm. You want, even need, your puppy to be obedient when the everyday distractions happen. HERE command As I have already stated, twelve-week-old puppies are cute, but they can also be little terrors. This is the age when they start to get very independent. With that independence comes the desire to run away from you, run around you, play keep-a-way and just generally terrorize your life. We get lots of calls from owners of puppies this age. They all want to know if we can take their dog now for training instead of at the usual months of age that we usually require for hunting dog training. This is very hard, even for professional trainers. But that is almost always a mistake since Bubba will decide to make a game out of not coming to us. Getting your puppy to come to you There are some techniques to help with this matter. Sometimes this is a good time to start treat-training your dog on HERE. This is a short-term fix that we will not continue for long, but it can sometimes help to get us through the next month or two. Labs are almost always driven by food, so it can help you get a better response to the HERE command. You can also have the dog drag a long check cord. The check cord gives you something to grab onto if the dog tries to make a game of coming to you, but you must be careful since the lead can get caught on something and injure your dog. Remember that each time you say HERE, you need to pull your puppy towards you. You need to associate the HERE command with coming towards you. You need your puppy to understand that coming to you is a good thing. That is why treats can help with this. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. Last week we introduced Bubba to water and got her swimming. Since then, she has been swimming a couple more times and she is very comfortable retrieving in the water. We also introduced her to decoys on land. Introduction to live birds This week we introduced Bubba to a live bird. We do this using a pigeon with the flight feathers pulled out. The pigeon can walk around and flap its wings, but it cannot fly. We ultimately would love to see the puppy chase down the bird, grab it in their mouth and bring it to us or at least prance around with it a bit. For some dogs, this can take a bit of encouragement the first time. But generally, once the puppy grabs hold of the bird, we see their whole demeanor change. This was the case for Bubba. Once Bubba picked up the pigeon, she pranced around the yard with her tail high and a spring in her step. She was so excited and proud of herself. This is a great response. Introduction to gun fire As I stated in last weeks post, we do not want to rush the introduction to gunfire. We have never had a dog we have raised and trained become gun shy and that is because we introduce gunfire is a very slow and painfully methodical way. The first step is that the dog or puppy is in a box on our dog trailer. While in this box, our other dogs are getting marks in the field. The gunners for these marks are anywhere from yards away from the dog trailer and they are using primers or starter pistols. The puppy is hearing these shots, but they are a long way away and are muted by being in the dog trailer. Our puppies hear these shots for weeks, or months before they ever hear anything closer. This is our first introduction to gun fire. Bubba was exposed to this last week and will be every week for a while before we move anything closer to her. Learn more about introducing your dog to gunfire. Continuation of assistant marks Bubba will continue to get assistant marks most days from now until she is done her training. The marks will continue to increase in distance and complexity but all our marking scenarios for our afternoon sessions involved gunners out in the field throwing marks for Bubba. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy You are really in the thick of it if your puppy is around the week mark. The next month or two will likely be the most challenging of your time raising a Labrador puppy. That will make obedience training easier and faster, but that is still a bit of a ways out. Hang in there and push through. Keep your commands and corrections firm and consistent and you will make progress with your puppy. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy? You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies.