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Standard Goldendoodles can weigh anywhere between 50 and 90 pounds. Personality The place where the Goldendoodle puppy really excels is its personality. Its breed is known for being simultaneously intelligent and adoring. A Goldendoodle puppy is very sociable, which makes them perfect animals for households with children and other animals or pets, even cats. Just like the Labradoodle, this breed requires correct socialization to ensure they get used to different sights, sounds and smells during puppyhood. This means taking your Goldendoodle to plenty of doggy-friendly parks so they can meet canine friends and introducing them to other people. Our Goldendoodle puppies for sale are fully trained Doodles, so you can focus on the fun bits, like bonding, eating food and playing. These dogs prefer to live in a house with a gated backyard where they can get regular exercise breaks. Do They Like to Play? Goldendoodle Puppy Training These clever dogs are perfect for first-time dog owners because Goldendoodles love to please and take great pride in learning new skills. Are Goldendoodles Intelligent? Both of its poodle and golden retriever parent breeds are known for their intelligence and trainability, and Goldendoodles have inherited this breed trait. This means the person training a Goldendoodle needs to be strong-willed, firm and consistent — but never harsh or aggressive. Much like a poodle, Doodles are sensitive dogs, and positive reinforcement is a must to bring out the best in them. How Obedient Are They? Goldendoodle pups adore human company, and making their pet parents happy brings them genuine satisfaction. As such, correct puppy training produces a highly obedient and loyal adult Goldendoodle. Older adults, people with disabilities and individuals with neurodevelopmental disorders can benefit significantly from the warmth and sweetness of these adorable Goldendoodle pups. Are They Easy to Train? Doodle puppies can be mischievous and cheeky, but aggression is practically unheard of. So as long as you treat them with the same gentle respect they offer, a Goldendoodle is one of the easiest dog breeds to train. Goldendoodles have loads of energy and require regular exercise to maintain a healthy weight and calm temperament. A Goldendoodle need a moderately high level of outdoor activity — usually a minimum of 30 minutes, but ideally one hour, of moderate to vigorous exercise per day will keep Goldendoodle puppies at their best. Unlike puppy mills, all good puppy and dog breeders provide a certificate that shows health clearances. At Pride and Prejudoodles, our tests cover common health conditions. As such, you have peace of mind when purchasing your new puppy from us. How Long Do Goldendoodles Live? Goldendoodles live for between 10 and 15 years. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Goldendoodle puppies for adoption. Questions about Goldendoodle puppies for sale? We have answers. What is a Goldendoodle, exactly? Goldendoodles are a hybrid breed created by crossing Poodles with Golden Retrievers. The aim of the breed is to create the ultimate companion dog—one who shares all the best traits of its parent breeds and none of the negatives. Breeders have been pretty successful in that regard—Goldendoodles are exploding in popularity as the ultimate family pet. How much do Goldendoodles puppies for sale cost? Goldendoodle price varies from breeder to breeder, and depends on numerous factors like coat type and color, size, breeder experience, and more. Breeders in our network price their Goldendoodles fairly and competitively, and part of the MatchMaker process means matching you with pups within your budget. Do Goldendoodle breeders ship puppies out of state? How do you screen Goldendoodle breeders? We have strict guidelines to protect the health or your puppy and the integrity of our breeders—head on over to our Breeder Pledge for more information on what you can expect from your breeder. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other places? In a time when dishonest breeders are an epidemic, we just want to help fill your home with the pitter-patter of soft puppy footsteps. To put it simply, we love dogs as much as you do. What is a puppy mill? Puppy mill dogs are more likely to have behavior issues, to develop genetic diseases costing you thousands in extra vet bills , and to die far too soon. Are there any mini Goldendoodle puppies for sale near me? Looking for Goldendoodles for sale near me? What is the MatchMaker process? Simply put, MatchMaker is how we ensure that our customers live happy, fulfilling lives with their dogs with minimal headaches. MatchMaker takes into account your ideal puppy based on things like size, breed, temperament and more—saving you time on your puppy search and making sure you and your dog are a match made in heaven. Breeder Locations.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. I fell in love with not only their beauty, but intense loyalty and happy go-lucky attitude. After loosing my first berner to cancer at the young age of 4 and knowing the short life span of the breed, I started exploring dogs with the beauty of the berner but life span of a mix breed. That's when I came upon the Bernedoodle. Not only do they not shed or very minimally , they come in a range of sizes for those not wanting a giant breed. The are also perfect for people with allergies and have a lifespan of years. Twice the length of the berner! Since bernedoodles are a hybrid, they are only likely to inherit a health problem common to both the poodle and bernese. Genetic testing greatly reduces the risk of many diseases. This is why all of our dogs are health tested and do not join our breeding program if they have not been. We hope you enjoy our website and look forward to providing you with your new family member! We are a small Bernedoodle breeder located in Southwest Ohio. We strive to produce healthy, happy, long-living puppies with fantastic temperaments. Our dogs are health tested and make wonderful family pets. We are more than happy to answer your questions and concerns. You've come to the right place. Here, at Premier Pups, our Mini Bernedoodles are happy, healthy, and ready to embark on a life-long journey with their new families. These puppies are raised with love and cared for by the best in the business. We align ourselves only with the best breeders that meet our high standards. All our Mini Bernedoodles come with a year health guarantee that backs up our Premier Promise. Nationwide delivery is available for all out-of-state customers looking to adopt a Mini Bernedoodle. The beautiful Mini Bernedoodles are a blend of fluffy looks and darling personalities. They can be small or medium depending on their generation, but regardless of their size, they are simply adorable. Mini Bernedoodles are designed to be loyal and loving companions for equally loving owners. They thrive in a setting where attention and fun are plentiful. We partner with the best dog breeders in the nation to offer you healthy, happy Mini Bernedoodle puppies. Find your dream Bernese Mountain Dog and Poodle mix puppy today! A few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups. View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Dublin Ohio and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups! Welcome to the Dublin, Ohio city page on TrustedPuppies. Known for its beautiful parks, lively Irish heritage, and strong sense of community, Dublin is a fantastic place to find and raise your new Mini Bernedoodle companion. Our goal is to connect you with the most exceptional Mini Bernedoodle breeders and puppies for sale in the region, ensuring you find the perfect furry friend for your family. Discover the dynamic dog-friendly scene in Dublin, featuring inviting restaurants, spacious dog parks, and engaging dog shows. For those passionate about dog shows, events like the Delaware County Kennel Club Dog Show provide an opportunity to appreciate the elegance and charm of Mini Bernedoodle canines while connecting with fellow enthusiasts. At TrustedPuppies. Most of our reputable Mini Bernedoodle breeders provide safe and affordable flight delivery, complete with a dedicated flight nanny who accompanies your new pup throughout their journey, ensuring their safety and comfort as they travel to their new home in Dublin. Many breeders also offer affordable vehicle delivery, utilizing specialized pet delivery services. This option allows your Mini Bernedoodle puppy to be transported directly to your door by a professional who understands the unique requirements of pet transportation. Begin your search for the perfect Mini Bernedoodle puppy on TrustedPuppies.

Christina Tuesday 18th of April You say to expect to pay a lot for a well bred merle Frenchie from a reputable breeder but there is no such thing. If a breeder breeds Merle frenchies then that proves they are nor a reputable breeder, and it's not a well bred dog. It's not even a frenchie. The only way to get a Merle is to cross breed with a breed that naturally carries Merle Claire Johnson Sunday 28th of May Christina, these is no such thing as a well bred merle Frenchie. The terms are mutually exclusive. There are numerous health issues associated with this color. Do your research. This article even says that there's more health problems associated with Merle. So how is it a lie? Also please don't dilute the term gaslight. If you don't know what it means please don't use it. A purpose bred mutt is one thing. But cross breeding with a breed that already has substantial health issues to get a not naturally occurring colour associated with even more health issues does NOTHING to benefit the breed. It is irresponsible, has a hugely negative impact on the breeds longevity, and dilutes the breed so preservation is more of an issue. Buying Merle frenchies is is just paying way too much for a mutt, that's likely gonna have a rough life, and it supports backyard breeding which should be made illegal at this point. If you want a Merle dog, get a breed where Merle is naturally occurring. Christina Tuesday 18th of April Renee, if it's Merle, it's not a frenchie. Frenchies can't be Merle without crossbreeding. You esentially have a backyard bred mutt. There's no such thing as a well bred Merle frenchie. And no reputable breeder will breed designer colours not naturally occurring in the breed. I own 2 beautiful French Bulldog merles and they are healthy and sweet. I wasn't looking for a merle but based on their disposition and excellent health I couldn't go home with one. I am not breeding or showing but only loving them crazy. FrenchieWiki Community. Sundays Food For Dogs This is an air-dried food. It has the convenience of kibble just pour it in the bow but is much much healthier. There are a number of air-dried foods on the market. My dogs tested 3 of them. You can see the results of the air-dried food test here. We Feed Raw. This raw food for dogs comes delivered to your home is perfectly sized portions for your pup. They primarily source their ingredients from trusted U. These ingredients are sourced from New Zealand, where some of the highest-quality and most ethically raised venison and lamb can be found. For a limited time, when you buy one month you get a second month free. What are Merle French Bulldogs? Merle French Bulldogs are a color variation within the French Bulldog breed, characterized by a mottled or blotchy pattern on their coat. The merle gene causes variations in coat color and can result in unique patterns, such as blue, silver, or chocolate markings. Are Merle French Bulldogs rare? Yes, Merle French Bulldogs are considered rare due to the specific genetic combination required to produce the merle coat pattern. Can Merle French Bulldogs have blue eyes? Yes, some Merle French Bulldogs may have blue eyes. Blue eyes are a result of the merle gene interacting with other genetic factors. How can I find reputable Merle French Bulldog breeders? Look for breeders who prioritize the health and temperament of their dogs, perform health tests, and provide a clean and caring environment for their puppies. The registration of Merle French Bulldogs can vary depending on the kennel club and its policies. Some kennel clubs may allow registration of Merle French Bulldogs, while others may not recognize them due to concerns about health issues associated with the merle gene. The American Kennel club does not recognize frenchies with the merle pattern as an official French bulldogs, as it does not meet the breed standards. Is it necessary to feed Merle French Bulldogs a raw dog food diet? Merle French Bulldogs may be prone to certain health issues associated with the merle gene, such as deafness, eye abnormalities, and skin sensitivities. Responsible breeders conduct genetic health testing to minimize the risk of these conditions. Some kennel clubs may not allow Merle French Bulldogs to compete due to concerns about the genetic health issues associated with the merle gene. Check the competition guidelines for clarity. How should I feed my Merle French Bulldog puppy? Feeding your Merle French Bulldog puppy a balanced and nutritious diet is crucial for their overall health. Consider high-quality puppy dog food or a raw dog food diet or here are several Vet-Approved Homemade Puppy Food Recipes How is the merle color created in French Bulldogs? To create the merle color in a Frenchie, breeders usually crossbreed with a different breed, commonly merle chihuahuas, to get the gene they are looking for. This means that merle Frenchies may not be a pure breed Where did the merle gene originate? The merle gene is believed to have originated in certain herding breeds, such as Border Collies and Australian Shepherds. Over time, this gene has been introduced into other breeds through crossbreeding. In the case of French Bulldogs, the merle gene may have been introduced through intentional or unintentional crossbreeding with other breeds carrying the merle gene. What should I feed my Merle French Bulldog puppy? A raw dog food diet can be beneficial for your Merle French Bulldog puppy. A raw dog food diet typically consists of muscle meat often still on the bone , bones either whole or ground , organ meats such as livers and kidneys , raw eggs, vegetables like broccoli, spinach, and celery , apples or other fruit, and some dairy such as yogurt. What are some different color varieties of Merle French Bulldogs? Frenchies with a merle coat come in a range of colors including Blue Merle and Lilac Merle. The blue base coat color has more of a blue tint than a true blue color and is very unique against the darker patches of pigment. Lilac hue comes from a combination of the brown and blue coat colors. The blue coat is further diluted, creating a beautiful, unique coat with a slight lilac appearance What is a Harlequin Merle French Bulldog? A Harlequin Merle French Bulldog is a color variation that combines the harlequin and merle coat patterns. These dogs have a marbled or splotchy coat with larger patches of color and may exhibit variations in shades and markings. What is a Cryptic Merle French Bulldog? A Cryptic Merle French Bulldog, also known as a hidden merle or phantom merle, refers to a dog that carries the merle gene but does not display the typical merle coat pattern. These dogs may have a solid coat color, but they carry the potential to produce merle offspring when bred with another merle. Can White Merle French Bulldogs exist? No, White Merle French Bulldogs do not exist. The merle gene affects the distribution of pigment in the coat, resulting in variations of color and pattern, but it does not produce a completely white coat. Merle French Bulldogs may have white markings or patches in their coat, but they are not entirely white. What is a Tweed Merle French Bulldog? A Tweed Merle French Bulldog refers to a specific variation of the merle coat pattern that resembles a tweed fabric. Merles are primarily known for their unique markings, a genetic expression of the M-locus or Merle gene which causes random skin pigmentation and lightens their eye color. They come in a variety of colors and range in spectrums of white, grey and black, white and beige, dark brown, beige and white and mixes of greys and Beiges together. The lilac genetics are expressed in the flash of red in there light blue colored eyes and a combination of chocolate and blue base color in their coats. Black, tan and fawn make up the black Merle and they often have brown eyes or blue eyes. On occasion, a combination of both will express itself where you will see one brown eye and one blue eye or a streak of one color inside the other. Genetically they come from the black Merle whose color base has been diluted to create a blue hue. Health of Merle Bulldogs French Bulldogs like all other breeds have certain health risks. For a golden retriever it is hip displasia. For a french bulldog it is a vulnerable back that encourages good practices for their owners to have stairs in place always at sites where dogs should not be jumping from such as a high bed or couch. It has been rumored that Merle french bulldogs are less healthy than standard french bulldogs. This would only be true if poor breeding practices are exercised. That would be breeding one Merle dog to another. Common problems include blindness and deafness as well as chronic allergies, immune disorders, heart murmurs and hip dysplasia. A responsible breeder will tell you about this. Additionally to encourage better health throughout a dogs life Feeding your dog a raw diet and giving them NuVet supplements are required by our standards. In general a raw diet has been proven to lengthen life span. Also not spaying and neutering before the age of six and preserving hormones will encourage longer life. Merle is not a color, its a pattern. There are some patterns recreated by breeders that have become popular and also despised upon by other breeders. Merle French bulldogs are such dogs whose pattern has become very popular due to its rarity and the diversity of patterns. The gene alters the color of the dogs and creates patterns over patterns and this creates mottled patches in the colors of the litter. Also, the gene modifies the color of the eyes nose and the paw pads. Blue eyes are common in these dogs and also an odd colored set of eyes can also be present. No Merle dog will be the same as the patterns will always differ along with the color. There are three types of genes that the dog can carry. Breeders take advantage of the availability of French Bulldogs in up to 20 twenty different colors. They then create a rare, low maintenance dog. Merle is one of the most expensive colors of French bulldogs out there and one of the rarest. Merle French bulldogs are not pure breeds. The color is a mix of other patterns mixed together by careful selection and breeding. If the breeder messes up on the color combination, the puppies can come out unhealthy and weak with birth defects. No French bulldog has the merle gene and therefore, Merle French bulldogs are not purebred. Many dog breeds have this gene, however, Chihuahuas are used to introduce this gene in the French bulldog family. Some breeders can also crossbreed the puppies to create a purebred Merle French bulldog. The pattern depends on the gene dilution as there are variations in the pattern of these dogs. Blue, black, lavender are some of the colors which are diluted with the merle gene. These dogs are very rare and are sought out for all over the world. Sometimes just looking at pics online do not do them justice. See Chocolate Puppies! In order for your Frenchie to express chocolate on their coat they must inherit two copies of the gene. Chocolate is not a testable gene as of right now and the only way to know if your dog carries chocolate is to breed to chocolate frenchie or one who carries chocolate. Just as with the other color variations you can have brindling in the coat or solid. The gene that determines this is on the K-locus. If they inherit one or two copies of the brindle Kbr gene they will express brindling in their coat. If not copies of the brindling gene , then they will be solid. Chocolates may also have tan points which has to do with the A locus. If they inherit one or two copies of the tan points gene, At, they will express tan points. You can also have chocolate pied Frenchies which is located on the S-locus. The Frenchie must inherit two copies of the gene for the pied expression. We have not had a little chocolate Frenchie. Previous Chocolate French Bulldogs Oceana is chocolate brindle. One of our retired females. Beau Chocolate Male. Just look at that cute little white strip down his face! Fiona Chocolate Female! Color variations Blue merle French Bulldog Blue merle French Bulldogs are one of our most sought-after puppies of all the colors. They got their name after the blue patches on their light-colored coat, which are essentially grey with a bluish shine in the light. The shade of the grey parts may vary from very light to almost black, while their base color also ranges from a yellowish cream color to light grey. Lilac merle French Bulldog Lilac merle French Bulldogs are often mistaken for blue merle Frenchies, but they are much more unique and harder to come by. Lilac merle Frenchies have very light, almost ashy or silver colored patches on their light coat. To produce this rare and beautiful color, the parents have to carry the blue, chocolate and merle gene. Lilac merle French Bulldogs usually have light-colored eyes which are glowing red. Chocolate merle French Bulldog Chocolate merle French Bulldogs have dark brown mottled patches all over their light-colored bodies. Choco merle pups also have unique genetics so they are quite rare and hard to come by. Similarly to lilac Frenchies, they are the combination of blue and chocolate but their grey shade is more of a champagne color. Breeders have managed to mix in the merle gene as well producing the Isabella merle French Bulldog, but these dogs are extremely rare. Black merle French Bulldog Black merle French Bulldogs have black mottled patches often covering most of their bodies. Their base coat is also slightly darker than in other merle Frenchies, ranging from light grey to light brown. Fawn merle French Bulldog There are a number of different variations of fawn merle French Bulldogs, like blue fawn merle, lilac fawn merle or chocolate fawn merle. The dark patches these Frenchies have are less distinct looking than in other merles, as they are only a bit darker than their light fawn base color. One of these rare traits is their sparkling blue eyes. Since the merle gene affects the skin pigment as well, when a merle patch crosses the eye area the Frenchie will have bright forever blue eyes. Sometimes only one of the eyes will remain blue, which is a phenomenon called heterochromia. Because of how dominant the merle gene is, merle Frenchies should only be bred to a dog with a solid coat color. They are insanely affectionate making them the perfect companion dogs, they just want to spend every minute of their time with their owners. They are extremely friendly with kids and other animals too; they love basically anyone they meet! Thanks to their easy-going nature, a Merle Frenchie will adapt to your lifestyle very quickly no matter where you live. As you might expect, colors that are considered common for the breed have the lowest prices, while colors which are more unique and harder to produce are more expensive as well. When it comes to Merle French Bulldogs, they are already in a higher price range, but depending on the color variation their prices may further vary a lot. Permanent blue eyes also push the prices up a bit: we charge USD per blue eye. In fact, the regular Frenchies are crossed with official merle breeds like the Chihuahua, with the outcome being a litter of mostly merle puppies. It can often develop blue eyes because of either the M-locus gene or a low melanin level. Pied Merle This dog has blue and gray patches over a white coat. Black Merle This dog displays dark fur over a base coat ranging from light grey to brown and black mottling. Brindle Merle The brindle merle Frenchie has a series of patterns consisting of tan and merle spots. Red Merle One of the common patterns, the coat has a slightly pink tone covered with merle streaks. Tan Merle These dogs have a tan coat, with brown spots all over, though some have grey spots instead. Other characteristic features include pink or light brown noses and pale paw pads. Brown Merle The brown merle is very similar to the red merle, just with a darker tone. White Merle Often confused with the pied merle, these Frenchies have black and tan patches over a white coat. Black and Tan Merle These Bulldogs have black patches along with a merle pattern over a tan coat. Harlequin Merle When a French Bulldog inherits both the harlequin and merle genes, they develop this pattern. Tri Merle These dogs have a blue and fawn coat, with black patches all over. Spotted When a merle pattern on a French Bulldog is broken down into spots, it appears like this. More Merle French Bulldogs.

Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? Table of Contents Easiest Dog to Take Care of: Top 10 Breeds for a Happy Home Do you ever dream about having a furry best friend who loves to play fetch, gives the warmest cuddles, and greets you with the happiest tail wags every time you come home? A friend who is not just any dog, but the easiest dog to take care of? We know, it sounds like a dream come true, right? But we also understand that bringing a new puppy home is a big step. It's like adding a new member to your family, a little brother or sister.All French Bulldog Insights French Bulldog Breed Info If you're seeking an adorable companion with a charmingly squashed face, an easygoing personality, and a distinct penchant for lounging on the couch, the French Bulldog could just be your perfect match. With their signature bat ears and expressive eyes, French Bulldogs, or "Frenchies" as they are lovingly known, have captured the hearts of many dog lovers around the globe, consistently ranking among the most popular breeds. Renowned for their easy maintenance and the ability to thrive in apartment living, French Bulldogs are a city dweller's delight. Their small size, typically weighing under 28 pounds, makes them perfectly suited to compact urban spaces. However, their charming personalities and heartwarming companionship are universally loved, irrespective of city or countryside living. This breed's laid-back nature does not mean they're devoid of fun and play. On the contrary, French Bulldogs can be quite playful and are known for their often comical and entertaining antics, which only further endears them to their owners. Their affectionate demeanor, combined with a remarkably low barking tendency, makes them a joy to have around the house. French Bulldogs are sturdy, compact, and stocky, with a powerful muscular build that contradicts their small size. They have a smooth coat that comes in a variety of colors, from fawn and brindle to white and grey. Their facial expressions are human-like, and they're known to "talk" using a complex system of yawns, yips, and gargles. However, owning a French Bulldog does come with responsibilities. Their brachycephalic short-nosed nature makes them prone to certain health issues and less tolerant of extreme temperatures. Despite their muscular appearance, they are not the best swimmers, and care should be taken around bodies of water. Questions about French Bulldog puppies for sale in Wisconsin? We have answers. How does French Bulldog puppies for sale in Wisconsin work? Ever wondered why Frenchies seem to have such high prices? Well, it's simply because of their bones! Female Frenchies have really narrow hips, making it hard for them to conceive and give birth the usual way. Because of this, Wisconsin French Bulldog breeders have to cover the costs of things like artificial insemination and C-sections, leading to higher puppy prices. Can I find the cheapest Frenchies on Uptown? The typical French Bulldog for sale Wisconsin comes with quite a high price tag, so we understand why you might want to find the cheapest possible pups to fit your budget. However, the cheapest dogs usually have health issues, so you have to be careful and look at more than the price. You'll find a good range of fairly priced pups on Uptown, and you'll be getting the best possible value by buying from proven, professional breeders, rather than sneaky scammers. Shouldn't I buy a shelter dog instead? If you're looking for French Bulldogs for sale Wisconsin, you might be able to find some from local shelters and rescue centers. We're not anti-shelter at all, and if you want to find a shelter dog, that's a perfectly valid choice. However, you have to remember that shelter dogs often have unknown health histories and it may take quite a lot of searching to find a Frenchie puppy at a shelter near you since these dogs are so popular. How do I know that my Frenchie will be healthy? It's always wise to look for healthy French Bulldog puppies in Wisconsin, reducing the risk of you needing to pay high prices in vet bills later on. Fortunately, all of the breeders and businesses on Uptown carry out in-depth health checks of each and every Wisconsin French Bulldog for sale, so you'll be able to see that your chosen pup has a clean bill of health before bringing it home. Is it enough to walk my Frenchie pup, or do these dogs need more exercise? French Bulldog puppies for sale Wisconsin don't have very high exercise requirements, so one moderate walk each day should suffice, or a couple of shorter walks. They like to play, though, so will enjoy little playtime sessions with toys and games at home or in the backyard. Regular exercise will help to keep your Frenchie happy and healthy, reducing the risks of weight gain and boredom. How do I know I can trust Uptown? Searching for a French Bulldog Wisconsin online can be quite a worrying experience, with so many different sites all claiming to be the best. If you're not sure whether or not Uptown is the right choice for finding your next French Bulldog for sale in Wisconsin, we invite you to read through some of our latest customer reviews to get an unbiased look at how we work. What are French Bulldogs like? The first thing to note about Wisconsin French Bulldogs for sale is that these dogs are small and relatively low-maintenance. They like to play and walk, but only need hours of exercise each day, so can be well-suited to a range of owners. They're easy to groom and train too, and they're surprisingly smart dogs with a lot of great qualities in general, such as friendliness and loyalty. What are some health issues connected with Frenchies? French Bulldogs for sale in Wisconsin can have very long and happy lives of years, but as they get older, the chances of health issues begin to rise. Due to their snub noses, these dogs tend to struggle with breathing problems, and they can have quite weak joints too. To have the best chance of a healthy Wisconsin French Bulldog puppy for sale, be sure to buy from trusted breeders only. How do you screen businesses selling Frenchies? Well, we take our time to independently screen each and every one of them, assessing their qualities in terms of experience, professionalism, animal welfare, facility cleanliness, and more. Only the best sellers of French Bulldog puppies Wisconsin earn a spot on Uptown. How does Uptown work to help me find a Frenchie pup? Uptown aims to provide a super simple and straightforward way to find French Bulldog puppies for sale in Wisconsin from trusted, honest sellers. To start your search, simply check out the currently available litters and speak with the breeders if you'd like to learn more about any pups that pique your interest. When it's time to bring your new furry friend home, all you need to do is make the necessary travel arrangements with the seller.

German Shepherds are very gentle dogs and are much known for their protective traits. Unfortunately, last , there was a new adoption fee. Adopting a German Shepherd in Wisconsin would now cost around dollars to dollars. These German Shepherds are provided with consistent medical care. Ever since the German Shepherd gets rescued, they will closely be monitored and have the privilege of being spayed and neutered. Care also includes all kinds of shots for dogs. Choosing a Good German Shepherd Rescue If you are trying to adopt a rescued German Shepherd from German Shepherd shelters, you might be confused about what you should consider. If you ask people to like your friends and family, they might have different opinions that confuse you. But there is not so much to consider. The fact that you chose to adopt a rescued German Shepherd rather than buying one is already one act of kindness. You might already know that there are so many rescued German Shepherds in the world and only a few German Shepherd shelters. If the German Shepherd comes at you with no hesitations and no aggressiveness, you would know that it was a good rescue. If the German Shepherd is warm and inviting on your first encounter, it is already a good rescue because there are no signs of trauma or aggression. How do I pick a good rescue German Shepherd? You might ask yourself what kind of German Shepherd you should adopt and rehome. You can look for outgoing dogs. You can tell that by observing their body language when you first meet. However, if you are also not down to unlimited patience, you can avoid a shy German Shepherd. These dogs can be a little bit of work because they are afraid and run away from you. If you are outgoing and are a very hands-on person, you might not enjoy your German Shepherd because of its shyness. Dogs can be trained and can also be flexible like some people are. If you love a challenge, you can pick any dog you want. Summary There are numerous dog shelters in Wisconsin where you may locate a German Shepherd to adopt. We all know that adoption includes a slew of processes, activities, and criteria. As a result, we compiled a list of shelters to save you time while looking for German Shepherd rescues near you. If you intend to rehome or adopt one, you will already have a starting point. This way, you may be sure of receiving the most significant German Shepherd for adoption. Other States. Our breeding stock dogs are own by us and include females of our breeding program and direct German SV import. They healthy, beautiful and smart. We only use pure Show-line bloodlines and our dogs are proven on a Show ring and Working field. All dogs live in our home, along with children, farm animals, and family and friends visiting often. We take great care of our dogs; they are fed nutritious diet , have regular vet visits , are given vitamins and supplements and are truly loved. It is our pleasure to share the joy of owning a great German Shepherd Dog with you! Dogs are not our whole life. But they make our life whole. Sure thing! We will be delighted to help and answer any questions! Our puppy inquiry form allows you to contact us and learn about our process with just a few clicks. We have reservations and waiting lists for each litter. All litters are whelped in our warm home. We stay with the female during the entire time of whelping and closely observe to make sure she gets help immediately if needed. Once pups are born, we let momma clean them, bound and have each pup latch on her nipple. We measure each puppy's weight at birth and record time of birth. Pups spend their first weeks in the whelping box, and we keep monitoring their growth closely. Measure their weight and taking pictures daily. By this time many are already sold, have their names picked, and owners are waiting for them eagerly. All pups come with a full veterinary exam, first set of vaccinations and deworming done by a breeder at least three times. We supply their puppy record as a fun keepsake. All pups are registered with American Kennel Club and come with registration forms. We also provide four-generation pedigree and a microchip as a complimentary service. All sales are completed with a signed contract, written guarantees and sales receipt. We offer Boarding to all our pups! We can not underestimate the importance of training your dog. Whether you want to compete in sport with your dog, participate in dog shows, certify him or her as a therapy dog or simply raise a family pet and personal companion - training is equally important! We ask that the owner spends at least an hour a day to train their new dog. Trained dog is a much happier dog to own! If you are interested to have a private class, need help finding or joining a local club, seeking a handler or with any other questions - please do not hesitate to contact us! We will do our best to help and contact you with a right person or get you the right resource. If you are awaiting for your pup's arrival - use the time to educate yourself. We have a list of recommended books, training websites and pages to follow. Doing self-study and watching online videos is an easy and free way to get ready for your puppy. YOU are the most important part of your dog's training! We do not support Pet Shop training centers or "all-positive" training methods. We can't promise you it will be easy, but we do promise the rewards are going to worth every effort! Paul Airport. Because our kennel is also our home, we ask that you contact us to schedule a visit. For the complete list please see our German Shepherd Breeders page. However, the price can vary depending on the breeder, the region of the state, and other factors. Some of the other factors determining price may include the age, gender, and pedigree of the puppy. It is also important to note that puppies from responsible breeders will often be more expensive than those from puppy mills or other unethical breeders. A responsible breeder will usually only breed one or two litters per year, and they will help buyers find the right fit for their home. They also breed for temperament and trainability instead of focusing on profit. Responsible breeders should be registered with an organization such as the United Kennel Club UKC in Wisconsin, and puppies must come with a health record. These records often include information about vaccines and deworming treatments given to the puppy in its early life. Getting German Shepherd puppies for adoption can be done through either rescue organizations or from owners who cannot keep their dogs. Rescue organizations are a great option for those looking for a specific breed of dog, as they typically have a number of dogs available for adoption at any given time. Often, these rescue organizations are run by volunteers who are passionate about their work. This will allow you to meet the parents of the puppy and to see where the puppies are being raised. It is also a good opportunity to ask questions about the breed and the puppies. It is also important to make sure that the puppies are healthy and have been properly socialized. When visiting a breeder, be sure to ask to see the health records of the puppies and their parents. You should also ask about any guarantees that the breeder offers. If you are not comfortable with a breeder, it is best to move on and find another one. References can be from veterinarians, previous buyers, or others who have worked with the breeder. This will help you get an idea of the quality of puppies that the breeder produces and whether or not they are responsible. It can also help you determine if the puppies have been properly socialized and are healthy. Puppy Mills vs Responsible Breeders in Wisconsin As mentioned earlier, there is a big difference between breeders who are responsible and those who are not. Puppy mills are often large-scale operations where dogs are bred indiscriminately. The puppies from these mills often have health problems due to poor breeding practices and lack of socialization. Responsible breeders, on the other hand, are dog lovers who take their time to find the right homes for their Ask Your Wisconsin German Shepherd Breeder if You Can Meet Past Customers In addition to asking for references from past customers, you should also ask if you can meet some of these customers. This will give you a better idea of whether or not the breeder is responsible and cares about their puppies. In addition, meeting previous customers will allow you to see how well the dogs get along with other people and pets. Meeting past customers will also give you a chance to ask them about their experience with the breeder and whether they would recommend them to others. If a breeder is not willing to let you meet previous customers, it is best to move on and find a different breeder. This gives potential buyers the chance to see how well the dogs are cared for. These types of visits also give puppy buyers an opportunity to see how healthy and socialized the puppies are. Other breeders will not allow visitors into their kennels for various reasons. If you are not allowed inside the kennel, it may be because there is something that they do not want you to see or know about or because they are hiding something about themselves or their Does Your Wisconsin German Shepherd Breeder Have A Good Veterinarian They Use? When buying a puppy from a breeder, it is important to make sure that they have a good veterinarian they work with. The breeder should also tell you about any health issues that may affect the puppies and what vaccines or treatments are necessary at different stages of life. This will help minimize the risk of your puppy being exposed to dangerous diseases and infections. A responsible breeder will have a good relationship with their veterinarian and will be willing to provide you with all the information you need about their puppies. When buying a German Shepherd puppy, it is important to ask lots of questions and to make sure that the breeder is responsible. By asking the right questions, you can ensure that you are getting a healthy, well-socialized puppy from a responsible breeder. Some unethical breeders may try to hide their true intentions, but there are some telltale signs that can help you spot them. One sign of an unethical breeder is if they are unwilling to let you meet the parents of the dog. Good breeders will be proud of their dogs and happy to show off their parents. If the breeder tries to avoid this question or gives you a vague answer, it is likely that they are hiding something. Another red flag is if the breeder is asking for a lot of money upfront. A good breeder will usually ask for a deposit, but they will never ask for the entire payment before you have even seen the puppy. Good breeders should want nothing more than healthy, happy puppies that go to good homes. Unethical breeders are often more concerned about making money than they are about giving their dogs a good life. Before buying a German Shepherd from any breeder in Wisconsin, it is important to take your time and ask lots of questions so that you can be sure that the breeder is responsible and trustworthy. Your new puppy deserves only the best and by asking these questions, you can find them! You want to know if there are any hereditary conditions or if your puppy will require any special care. If the breeder seems reluctant or unwilling to answer these questions, it might be a sign that something is wrong with the puppies. A responsible breeder will work with their vet to ensure that each of their dogs is healthy before breeding them. How to Prepare Your Home for Your German Shepherd Puppy When getting a new German Shepherd puppy, it is important to prepare your home so that your dog has everything they need to be happy and healthy. The first thing you should do is make sure that you have enough room for the puppy to move around in. Puppies can be quite rambunctious until they are about eight weeks old, so it will take some time before they are able to settle down. Puppy-proofing your home is another important step that should not be overlooked. You do not want your new puppy to get into anything dangerous while they are exploring, so it is important to make sure that your home is safe for them. You should also make sure you have the right supplies for raising a German Shepherd in your home. It can be hard to decide on what you need, so we have put together a list of essential items that you will need for your new puppy. A crate or kennel A food and water bowl A collar and leash- Toys Chew toys- Dog bed Grooming supplies When you bring your new German Shepherd puppy home, make sure to spend plenty of time getting to know them. They will need to learn where they can and cannot go in your home, and you will need to teach them basic commands like sit, stay, come, and down. It will take some time and patience, but with enough love and training, you will have a happy, well-adjusted German Shepherd. However, it is something that every new owner should work to teach their German Shepherd as quickly as possible. By teaching them that they need to go outside instead of using the carpet or furniture, you will be giving your new dog a place of honor in your home. The first thing you should do is avoid punishing your dog if she has an accident on the floor. It may seem like the right response, but dogs do not understand why they are being punished and it could lead down a bad road where your pup becomes afraid of you. Instead, every time your puppy does have an accident inside, use this as a learning lesson by taking her out immediately and giving her a treat when she does go outside. You want to make sure that you are consistently taking her out after every meal and every time they wake up from a nap so that they will start to learn where it is okay for them to do their business. It might take some time before your German Shepherd puppy gets the hang of this, but with enough love and patience, your pup will be potty trained in no time. I love animals and love helping people adopt a pet. It all started when attending Missouri State University and I began volunteering at an animal shelter. Social Media: Facebook, Instagram 3. Saving Paws One of the rescue centers I admire the most is the well-known organization named Saving Paws. Other animals come into consideration, too! Helping people in need is not foreign either. Saving Paws is truly a helping hand that we all need in our communities. Saving Paws was founded back in when two dog lovers joined forces and started rescuing and rehabilitating dogs together. Saving Paws focuses on adopting and training German Shepherds into becoming service dogs for kids, veterans, or disabled people. I urge you to help them out with a small donation because what these guys gave back to the community is beyond amazing. Fetch Foster and Rescue Unlike other rescue centers on this list, Fetch Foster and Rescue has no dog kennels or facilities where they can put their dogs. They rely completely on foster homes and volunteers that will provide a temporary home for their GSDs in need. But, not only are GSDs a part of their focus group. If you live in the area and want to adopt or help out, I urge you to check out the Fetch Foster and Rescue organization. Any help is good help, and those little paws will be eternally grateful. Rescue Center Details.

In answer to Anonymous If my children were teething, of course bloody not, for goodness sake. If however my child bit hard then I would tell them off! Firstly when any of my dogs were teething we had a numerous amount of chew toys, also when we play of course they mouth, and feel objects , they wouldnt of been squited for this!!!! And perhaps sometimes they a little too hard, the first thing I do is yelp, Ouch! If however she comes charcging at feet, chasing the children, and biting there legs jumping up like the OP has sugested I would use a water spray. My pup is 9 months old and is a laberbese. Bread as a disibilty dog. She is huge and not a force to beckon with, She is loving, attentive, happy, so soft, and most inportantly a very special pal to our son with special needs. So I would say if you think that spraying a squirt of water at biting is terrible then thats youre choice. Dont presume anything. Mouthing is normal, nipping when playing is ok to a point, taring trousers, running after ankiles and biting is not okay. In answer to Anonymous Aplogies for the spelling, it was a hot sleepless night.! Lastly We all raise animals, like children seeing you want to lump the two together very differantly. A few points come to mind with this post, 1 there is no such breed as a laberbese, am i right in presuming she is a Labrador Retriever x Bernese mountain dog? I can assure you that neither Guide dog puppies or Assistance dog puppies EVER have water squirted at them due to teething, or any other behavior come to think of it! American Pit Bull: Boxer Puppy Biting and Nipping When we talk about Boxer puppies biting children, both younger and older kids, toys or even biting at your feet, what most are actually talking about is nipping. There is a huge difference between the 2 words. A nip is a quick snap of the jaws, it can be done in the air close to a person or it can make skin contact yet it is a pinch type bite that often does not break the skin. Boxer puppies and even older dogs nip, not to attack someone, but to send a warning. The warning is not necessarily that of an impending attack… Boxer puppy nipping is done for one of several reasons: As play — Young pups are used to nipping at their littermates as a form of play and this may carry over as they transition into their new home. If a Boxer puppy is biting a lot, it may be an issue of the dog needing to learn the rules of the home and needing to learn that was used to be acceptable with other pups is no longer acceptable with his humans. A Method of Sending a Message — Boxer dogs of any age may nip for many reasons. Unable to vocalize, the nip is a message. Often it is a low growl, lasting just seconds, with teeth bared. In some cases, there will only be a growl as the dog lowers his back, hunches over and bares his teeth yet does not actually physically bite. On the other hand, an actual bite not a nip is a full force, aggressive action in which the jaws lock down and teeth puncture the skin. The dog intends to inflict injury and the person on the other end often receives it unless thick clothing gets in the way, etc. In the following section we will discuss how to stop a Boxer dog from biting in the sense that the dog is actually nipping and it is not a full force, aggression bite meant to do serious harm. Training to Stop Boxer Puppy to Stop Biting and Nipping Overview Many owners feel, and rightfully so, that a bite is a serious issue and a behavior that needs to be addressed immediately. For this reason, they feel that taking serious action is the only way to stop the behavior… and this is where things can go wrong. And this is because it does not teach the dog what he needs to learn. Yelling, hitting or otherwise intimidating a puppy or dog will only serve to make the dog afraid of his owner. Alternatively, some dogs will see this as a challenge. So, owners must choose: Fear or respect. For a happy, healthy environment in which humans and canines live in peace, the Boxer or any other dog should be taught to respect his humans, not fear them. In addition, for a dog that bites, physically isolating him will stop the problem short term…while the dog is taken away of course he is not biting anyone…. It is a huge mistake to miss out on a chance to train a dog to stop biting. Of course, in the rare chance that a dog is full out biting, causing injury and is clearly dangerously aggressive, the dog should be removed… And measures must be taken to keep the family safe from any potential attacks…but again, this does not relate to puppy nipping, play biting or nipping due to teething, etc. Training a Boxer puppy to stop biting takes a bit of mental will power. You may have heard this before: Ignore the puppy. There is no other way for a dog to interpret this, as it is canine mentality. His humans and any other animals in the home are his pack. Every single pack that exists has a leader. Having a leader is a defining element of a pack. Problems can arise when a dog does not have a clear understanding of who that leader is. Humans begin eating. Two to three minutes pass. Once the dog obeys, a delicious and healthy meal is set down for him. So, once a dog knows that his human is in charge, how does this training stop the Boxer from biting….? When a Boxer understands that his human s are his leader s , being ignored is akin to being rejected by pack. A dog will suddenly be very humbled. He will worry that his pack has turned their backs on him… he will question his behavior and, when done correctly, he will make the connection that his action of biting caused a major problem with his standing in his family…. If you were both on the floor, stand up. If you were holding him, place him down. If you were both sitting on the sofa, rise up. This means zero talking, absolutely no looking in his direction…nothing. As a Boxer puppy works very hard to gain attention of any one in the house, everyone even those who were not bitten should be completely indifferent to the dog. Allow 10 minutes to pass. Now, when you are doing this, 2 minutes may feel like 20, so take a look at the clock and then choose an activity flip through the TV, check your email, get a drink…do whatever you want, but do remain in the house so that your Boxer can see that you are ignoring him and wait it out. After those 10 minutes, it is time to speak to your Boxer, but not engage him in any activity yet. Many times, the puppy will test things out. Simply mull around near your dog, speaking a bit and acting matter-of-fact. Do not give praise. Wait things out for about 5 minutes. If your Boxer does not nip or bite at you, it will be time to go back to the position that you were in when the bite occurred. It is at this time that if your Boxer does not nip at you that praise and attention can be given. If the dog does bite again, the complete ignoring method of training must be done — this means that the dog is testing things to see if it was indeed his nip that caused his temporary outcast from the pack. How do you turn your puppy into a well behaved, sociable dog, and keep those Chompers off your skin? Bite inhibition training, or soft mouth training, is a fantastic way to get any puppy to avoid human skin, or not bite down when they do hit it. Imagine two small boxer puppy littermates, about 5 weeks old. At least for the next few minutes, that is, until all is forgotten and play resumes. He realizes he bit just a little too hard, and that is why play stopped for him. The Boxer pup has learned to control his bite pressure at least with other puppies! Your pup gets a little too excited, miss the toy, and clamps down on your hand! What are you going to do? Your solution here is a simple one. Mimic dog, or rather puppy, behavior! How would one puppy respond if the other bit him a bit too hard? Immediately stop playing your game! Drop the rope toy and walk away. The last thing your pup wants right now is for the game to stop. Your goal is very simple. Puppy Biting and Teething Your puppy will undergo two teething stages as the little one grows two different sets of teeth. The first stage happens at about three weeks, and there is no reason you should ever have to deal with it unless you bred your puppy. At about 12 weeks three months , the second teething process will begin and your boxer puppy will begin growing his permanent teeth! Your puppy will want to bite and chew. Human skin is just…. If your puppy does this, offer a chew toy instead. Puppy sized rubber Kongs make wonderful chew toys and tend to be very durable! Very few young puppies are powerful enough to break apart a Kong. Offer the toy if your pup starts chomping at those hands or toes during play! Teething puppies are going to bite no matter what you do. They might not be trying to play but relieve the discomfort they feel from the teething process. Stop play as soon as those teeth miss the toy and clamp on your skin. These are called aversives, or forms of positive punishment. Aversives are used as a form of punishment reinforcement. More often, a reward-based approach is recommended, or something the dog will enjoy. This is with adult dogs. Never, ever, scold or yell at your or any puppy! Even mild forms of chastisement or corrections are questionable. You only ever want to use reward-based enforcement techniques. Why are puppies so special, you ask? Why are they different from adult dogs? Your puppy could become permanently afraid! But why should you, anyway? Why does he even need to know how to control that bite pressure anyway? Socialize Your Puppy! This is probably more important than anything else listed in our article! Teach your puppy, while he is a puppy, that other people both adults and children mean only wonderful things! Introduce your puppy to all kinds of environments and as many friendly animals as you can! Introduce your little one to dog parks after he is vaccinated , crowds, and other public areas with strangers. Show your puppy that nothing he might ever encounter ever means him harm! Related topics of interest to our readers.

The correct size of leash is critical to keeping your Labrador retriever puppy safe while he's exploring life. Too much leash can allow your pet to reach places he shouldn't and can cause him to get dangerously tangled. Not enough leash length can cause strain on your dog's neck and can be uncomfortable for your arm and back. To make outings fun for both of you, make sure you get a leash of the proper length for both of you. Tall Handler, Short Dog A taller handler needs a longer leash when working with a smaller dog. Labrador puppies are not the smallest of dogs, but when young they are rather short -- about the height of an adult small breed. An 8- to foot-long leash will provide the correct combination of comfort, control and freedom needed. You will not experience back strain with a leash of longer length as you would from leaning over a short leash. As with any leash, you'll hold excess length in your hand. Short Handler, Short Dog Shorter handlers, especially children, will appreciate working with a 6-foot-long leash. The shorter length allow the puppy short range and still permits the handler to have adequate control of his movement. At the same time, you will not have to struggle with multiple loops of leash in your hands, which can fall and become a tripping hazard for both puppy and handler. A shorter leash will facilitate keeping the puppy closer for more supervision than a long leash, which can allow a puppy too much freedom. Special Circumstances A leash of certain length is a requirement for many dog handling protocols. For example, puppy kindergarten classes that involve heeling exercises around multiple obstacles may require a leash of only 3 feet to keep the dog close to you with no excess to worry about dropping. Certain conformation trials require specific leash lengths. Some equipment for working dogs may require specialized leashes. Romping and playing in the park on-leash is suitable with a longer leash, perhaps 12 feet or more, provided you are able to learn to work in tandem with the active bowzer. Safety Concerns Retractable leads are convenient in many cases but can be a serious entanglement problem for some dogs of any age. The active, lanky and clumsy Labrador puppy is just the kind of dog who can find a way to get wrapped up. Chain leads, whose length you can alter by removing links, can injure puppies that chew them or lean hard against them. Remember to check the size of the metal clip that connects the leash to your puppy's collar. It should be large enough that it doesn't break when the puppy pulls but small enough that it doesn't weigh the pup down or become distracting when walking. More Articles. Also available in black, blue pink or yellow. At the connecting end, we find a snap hook attachment that is rust and corrosion resistant that will match the long lifetime of the leash. This is a very strong and stylish leash, perfect for everyday use whether on a daily walk or training session. And not everyone will agree, but we think leather leashes are the perfect match and most suitable style-wise for the noble looking Labrador. The Leather is stitched with extra strong thread, is double riveted both ends and is fitted with a larger than most 1 inch bolt snap for easy attachment and removal from a collar. This leash truly will last a lifetime! For attachment and removal to a collar there is a nickel plated bolt-style clip which is rust-proof and stain resistant, so will remain remain tarnish free for the life of the leash. The main benefit of such a leash over leather leashes is there is absolutely no care or upkeep necessary to keep it in tip-top condition. Available in 10 different colors, with very good feedback from previous buyers, this is a perfect leash for every day use with medium to large dogs. This leash has a zinc plated reverse-gate snap attachment for attaching the leash to your pooches collar. It has strong bar-tack stitching which is very durable and long-lasting. In fact it comes with a manufacturer guarantee that it will last — even if chewed! Easy to use and soft on the hands, perfect for every day use. Nice and lightweight, yet certainly durable and strong, a nice sized hand loop made of non-abrasive rope, with a simple thumb operated snap-bolt clip all makes this leash a pleasure to use and safe for controlling your dog. Certainly recommended! This style of lead is very easy to use, I personally keep one near my front door to easily slip on and off my dog because we have him collar free while in the home. The leash gets tighter if pulled from either end so if your dog pulls, it will tighten around their neck and be very uncomfortable. However, if yours is a dog who frequently runs away, or you feel you simply cannot allow to run off leash, this is a nice compromise. They get more freedom than with a 6-foot leash, but still cannot bolt free. This particular ribbon style retractable leash gives up to .This happens more than you might think! Single hand-operated hand braking, locking mechanism and recoil system gives you full, easy and intuitive control. Available in Blue, Black and Red. It comes with an instruction leaflet detailing how to use it correctly with safety in mind for you, your dog and everybody else around. The last thing you want when training distance commands is your dog to wander off and start sniffing up trees or chasing squirrels and a long leash such as this makes sure you can keep their attention on you and the training session. Backed up with a life time guarantee and a huge number of positive feedback reviews on Amazon, these long leashes come highly recommended. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. This leash will help you to control your Labrador better, to correct his behavior and better handle him in public places or in the dog's park. To create this item our diligent craftsmen select the best materials and metals. Using this item you will not face the problem of irritation, allergy or skin diseases. Brass fittings add new style to this leash. With these gold-like small parts simple leash can be turned to fashionable accessory. All the hardware is resistant to rust and corrosion. In order for this leash to be stronger and to serve you better, its edges are fixed together with brass rivets. The distinctive feature of this Leash is its braided design which will definitely beautify your Labrador and add some luxury in your usual daily walks. Do you want this leash to serve your Labrador longer, then follow this simple recommendations how to keep this leash new: Prevent water contacts as they can negatively affect the material. Do not drying the leash on the heat sources up- the leather will crack. Keep it away from your Labrador since he can chew it. Use leather conditioner to maintain good level of material hydration. Use water repellent to increase water resistance of this leash. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. Conventionally, dogs wear collars. Why does your Labrador puppy need any other equipment? In this article we are going to look at why your Labrador puppy needs a harness. And how this piece of equipment differs in its use. When I first got a dog, I assumed that dog necks must be different to human necks. I figured that must be why dogs could wear collars, but the idea of having something around my own throat sounded so unbearable. In fact, dogs and humans have very similar anatomy in their necks. They have thyroid glands, lymph nodes, the trachea, the oesophagus and of course, the spinal cord — along with a host of other veins and arteries. Just the same as it would, for a human. There is some research which suggests that eye-pressure increases in dogs wearing collars, when they pull. Eye pressure does not increase in dogs wearing harnesses. You might have noticed the collar almost cutting into her throat, as she pulls into it. Perhaps your Labrador puppy stands up on her back legs, when she wants to greet another puppy — bearing her full weight on her throat. She might cough afterwards. When puppies used to wear collars to my training classes, I would often see them waiting for class, rearing on their back legs to reach other puppies. You want your Labrador puppy to calm down, perhaps to sit and greet a person, or at least stop pulling. Doing all of that, involves thought, for a dog. So, we need to put your Labrador puppy into a frame of mind where they are able to think about how to earn your rewards. A harness means that your Labrador puppy is restrained, but also able to concentrate and problem-solve. Yes and no. The permanent and most effective solution to pulling on the lead, is training — regardless of whatever device or piece of equipment you use. Loose-lead training can be an ongoing process. Some Labradors have higher energy levels than others, and these might be especially challenging and rewarding! You should not feel like a failure or give up, if you are finding it difficult. Instead, get in touch with a force-free trainer who will be able to help you. During the time you are training your Labrador puppy to walk beside you, and even once you have trained your Labrador to walk on a loose-lead most of the time, sometimes you are going to come across things which interest her. It could be some food which someone has dropped in the street. Or another dog she wants to greet. Or a cat which runs out in front of you. It is almost impossible to imagine a Labrador — even a well-trained and responsive Labrador — which is healthy and which never attempts to reach something, when on the lead! And at those times, the leash is going to go tight. And all these points, will come into play. So: Yes, the solution is training. So we need to choose a piece of equipment which is the most humane and which can help our training, under those circumstances. When pulling towards something on a collar, they can easily tow you a few steps behind them. There are safety issues, here, as they could tow you into a road. But also the few steps they managed to pull you, will reward the pulling a good deal. They got closer to what they wanted, by pulling. Pulling worked. And so they will continue trying to pull, next time they see something they want. So, we need to reduce their power so we can stop even a large, strong dog, immediately. Does a harness reduce their power in this way? Not all harnesses… Back-attaching harnesses Many years ago, I first tried a harness on one of my dogs. I found that this harness gave her much more power. If she suddenly lunged, she could tow me more with a harness than she could with a collar! With the back-attaching harness, when the lead was tight because there was something in front of her which she found interesting , her face and neck was orientated away from me and was at a distance from me. I found it difficult to get her attention, using treats or my voice, because that front part of her body was so far away and I was behind her. I saw dogs jumping up on their back legs and flailing their front legs around. So, the back-attaching harness solved all of the physical health concerns which collars had held, for me. My dog was no longer choking herself on the odd occasion she wanted to reach something. For the owners of small or toy breeds, the back-attaching harness seemed perfect. But it was not viable for me, because of the decreased control I had over large and strong dogs and the difficulties in training which this caused. But at the time there was nothing else available, so I reluctantly returned to a flat collar. Front-attaching harnesses Fast-forward many years, and I began to hear about a different sort of harness available in the US. At the time, there were only two brands of front-attaching harness available. Now there are many different brands, and I hope to review them for you in another article. The front-attaching harness solved all the control and feeling-in-connection problems experienced with the back-attaching harnesses. I began to recommend these harnesses to clients attending my training classes. I stopped seeing dogs choking themselves, and my clients had much more control than with a collar. Front and Back Attaching Harness There are now some great harnesses available with attachments at both the front and back. You can take a look at our favourites in this article. Contact The Best Leashes for your Labrador One of the most important accessories you can have as a dog owner is a leash and collar. In most areas, they are required in public, and even at home, to ensure that your dog is well behaved. Here are some tips on finding the best leash and collar for your Labrador: Simple Leash and Collar A simple leash and collar, also known as a flat collar, will do just fine for dogs that are extremely well behaved, or even tempered. I also find that older dogs that are slower moving do well with the simple leashes and collars. You can tell if a simple leash and collar are the best choice by how your dog behaves in public. If he or she stays beside you the whole time without trying to get ahead, it means they know their place in the pack and they are a good candidate for these types of collars. Here are some good options to consider. You can also find a wide selection at your nearest pet supply store. Look for a collar that is adjustable and will grow with your dog. We recommend the flat collar over all others. Harness Veterinarians usually recommend a harness type of collar for those dogs who tend to be higher energy and require more effort when on the leash. The harness wraps around their bodies so not to choke them or crush their necks. These types of harnesses are ideal for younger dogs that are just being trained or are giving trouble with obedience. Some great options can be found here. Choke Collar The choke collar should be used as a last resort for very poorly behaved dogs. This collar actually works to keep the dog submissive towards his or her owner. There are some choke collars that are built with more safety features and you should do your research carefully to decide which one is best. This choke collar has some of those safety features built in, like rounded edges and dual rings.

Exercise Grooming The pug has origins majorly from China and Netherland. The Modern pugs are imported from China; the earliest breeds have also been known to originate from there. However, the pugs have a history with royal families in the Netherlands and England. The Modern style pugs were brought in to Britain in from China. The pugs were tended by the ruling families in China. The imperial court kept pugs because they were treasured by the Emperors who assigned guards to protect them while they the pugs lived in extravagance. Keeping pugs in Europe started at the House of Orange in the Netherlands. The pug became the official pug of the house after it saved the Prince of Orange from Assassins. Although these pugs were said to have been brought from China, the pugs from Europe at that time, as seen in pictures depict longer legs and nose. The pugs became prominent in the United States in the nineteenth century. They easily became family companions and show dogs. They became recognized by the American Kennel Club in .This occurred in , it was the first time a pug would be winning the show since it began. The pug would do anything to please its owners this is what makes them suitable to keep in many homes. Their loyalty is unwavering, they do well with children their calmness and sturdy physique allows them to tolerate children easily. Their Alertness makes them good security dogs but they are not predominantly used for security purposes. Pugs are stubborn, but this does not transform into aggressive manners. The pug thrives indoors. It is usually kept close to families that own it. It is classified by most Kennel Clubs as a toy dog. Despite their adaptation to heat, pugs cannot thrive well outdoors in hot and humid regions Pugs do not require high-intensity exercises; however moderate exercising will be sufficient. A reserved and reasonable amount of space for the dog to move around is ideal. The pugs have a fine coat that is sufficient to protect them from heat and cold. Maintaining a pug has low requirements. However, wrinkles and eyes have to be cleaned daily. Our Pugs puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Yes, pugs have a shallow eye socket. Therefore, excess force around the eyes can lead to the eyes falling out. This condition is called ocular proptosis. It is also common to other dogs that have shallow eyes sockets and big bulging eyes; Bulldogs, Pekingese and Chihuahuas. Do Pugs snore? The pug is a brachycephalic dog breed; having a short muzzle and a flat face. This makes breathing difficult and leads to the pug snoring. The pug is more likely to develop eyesight problems that could cause blindness. Their bulging eyes also make them susceptible to eye injuries. What are the foods I should avoid feeding my Pug with? Avoid mushrooms, onions, garlic, and avocados. Green tomatoes and Raw potatoes are also harmful. Do not give any alcohol and caffeine-containing food. Is the Pug good with family? Yes, the pug regardless of its physical outlook is very friendly and playful. Its history of intimacy with humans makes it suitable for the family. Can Pugs be left alone? However, it is okay to leave your dog alone for about 8 hours. Note that pugs are companion dogs and want to be with their owners all the time. Why are Pugs hyperactive? Pugs have been bred for a very long time as companion dogs. They naturally get excited about seeing their owners and this leads to a series of hyperactive displays. Would a Pug ever calm down? Pugs generally become less hyperactive as they grow older. A pug might reach about 2 years of age before showing signs of calmness. However, a calmer adult pug will occasionally go into a hyperactive mode when exited. Keep your dog from situations that will result in a fight. Maintain healthy conditions for your pug and yourself; avoid smoking, it can be harmful to your dog Do Pugs drool? All dogs drool to a certain extent. However, your pug might drool more given the architecture of its mouth. Its loose and large lips contribute to some drooling, especially when engaged in any physical activity. The pug Is a very playful dog, alert and even-tempered dog. Good with family and children especially. Clingy and popular dubbed as a shadow, this loving dog will follow you everywhere you go. Are you interested in purchasing a Pug? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. Why Is My Dog Shaking? Dogs are known for their loyalty and companionship, but when they start shaking, it can be a cause for concern for pet owners. Shaking in dogs can be a sign of various issues, from dog anxiety and dog fear to dog medical conditions. In this blog post, we will explore the common causes of a dog shaking and what pet owners can do to identify and treat the problem. We will also offer tips for preventing dog shaking and ensuring.By doing regular grooming at home, you can help your dog look its best between visits to the groomer. You also get to bond more closely and build stronger trust with your dog. Routine grooming sessions will keep your dog clean and feeling fresh, but it will also.Their personality is lively, their nature fun-loving, and their disposition affectionate. As even-tempered, sweet, and playful dogs, Pugs make wonderful playmates for kids of all ages and lovely companion pets for couples, singles, and seniors. These little joy bringers love to cuddle and are generous with their Pug love. When it comes to their family, Pugs attach like magnets. They are known to happily shadow their humans in every activity and are just as happy lazing on the couch all day as they are going for a long evening stroll around the neighborhood.

Poodle Clips Overview One of the most fascinating and interesting elements of the Poodle breed are the amazing clips of the coat. The owner of a pet Poodle may simply choose to keep the entire coat trimmed to a certain length.Or the owner of a pet or show Poodle may want the appropriate show cut. The AKC requires certain cuts depending on the age of the Poodle. Let's take a look at the proper Poodle clips for AKC conformation and what each clip entails. When showing, this is the only acceptable clip for Poodles under 1 year old. Many pet owners opt for this cut as well, as it allows for the Poodle to have full coverage over the body, without exposing any skin, except for the dog's small paws. When skin is exposed it is subjected to the sun and can develop possible sores from playing around in the yard or when exposed skin is resting against carpeting. With this type of clip, the Poodle's face, throat, paws and base of the tail are shaved. The entire shaven foot is visible. You may opt to have a pompon on the end of the tail. In order to give a neat appearance and a smooth unbroken line, shaping of the coat is done with scissors to even things up and get rid of any long, straggly hairs. The face, front legs between poms and elbow, hind quarter to the pom area and with the exception of the hip rosettes, feet, and base of tail are all shaved very closely. The pack area is left very, very long and scissored into shape. The top knot is left very long and pulled into a ponytail. The tail is given a very large pompon. Poms on the legs are started just above the wrist and hock joints and end just above the feet. They are also scissored round. The hip rosettes are placed directly over the Poodle's hip joint. These are also scissored round. The reason that this is allowed is that the only element which is "modified" is the lack of the hip rosettes, which are optional. English Saddle With this clip, the Poodle's face, front leg between pom and pack, crescent on the flank, base of tail, separations between poms on rear legs and paws are all closely shaved. The pack is left rather full and is scissored into shape. The top knot on the head is left long and pulled back into a pony tail. The poms on front legs are leg long and started above the wrist joint and ends above the feet. The area over the hips and flanks are scissored shorter into a smooth blanket. The tail's pom is left long and shaped into a ball. The poms on hind legs are rounded off and spaced evenly apart. The bottom pom begins just above the hock and ends above the feet. With this Poodle clip, the face, feet, throat, and base of the tail are shaved close, leaving a scissored cap on the top of the head. The rest of the dog's body, and legs are clipped or scissored to follow the outline of the dog leaving a short, soft blanket of coat approximately 1 inch long. The hair on the legs may be slightly longer than that on the body. There is a nice, fluffy pompon at the end of the Poodle's tail. It is also referred to as the 'Second Puppy Clip'. The hair on the top may be left puffed out or pulled into a topknot. The coat is allowed to be very low on the legs, only showing a bit of the paw. It is a nice clip that offers a pleasant shape while not exposing any skin. Since coat growth can quickly cause this clip to loose shape, it is retouched approximately 5 to days before a show event. Kennel Clip - This is a pet clip, meaning that many pet owners opt for this easy clip and it is not permissible in the AKC show ring. Body hair is short all over and just scissored into shape. The top knot and tail are left longer than the body hair. The length of the body hair is completely up to the owner, some opt for a shorter length in the hotter months and longer in colder months. Lamb Clip - This is very similar to the Kennel Clip. The only difference is that the coat is left longer. With this Poodle clip, the dog's face, feet, and base of tail are shaved closely. Body hair is left fluffy but not too long and then scissored into shape. The legs are shaped into a pom at the bottom starting just above the wrist and the hock ending just above the feet. The length of the hair is up to the owner, however, most opt for a very short clip. Dutch Clip - This is an interesting pet clip. The Poodle's face, neck area, belly band, feet, and base of tail are shaved closely. The belly band may be shaved thin or wide, as shown in the photo. The lines between the withers along the spine and between the hips along the spine are also shaved. These lines are very narrow. The top of the head, the legs, and tail are left very fluffy. As you can imagine, the coat cannot be brushed in the traditional sense, cords must be separated out by hand. This used to be a very popular way to keep the coat long ago, however now this is exceedingly rare since most pet owners simply do not have the time to braid the section, keep the coat clean or wait for the exceedingly long drying time that comes with such large dread-lock type sections. This an exceptionally difficult style to do and to maintain which keeps owners away even if the look is a desired one. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. If you have to pay a beautician to clip a Standard Poodle every four to six weeks it can prove to be a very expensive outlay. You can ring round for prices, but do be sure to choose a trimmer that likes the breed. Find a kind, competent trimmer. Standard Poodles should enjoy their trip to the hairdresser. You may decide to learn how to clip your pet yourself. If you intend to show your dog, it is essential to learn to trim the dog yourself, unless you happen to be rich. Standard Poodles people are generally most friendly and helpful; you may find somebody in your area that will assist you. It is not advisable to learn to trim on a puppy. All puppies wriggle and you could become exceedingly frustrated, which will do neither you nor your puppy any good at all. Even the most perfectly behaved dog can react nervously to a novice trimmer, pulling its feet away continuously when it normally sits as still as a statue. If you do not own an older dog that is used to being coiffured, then do borrow one when setting forth on your first adventure into trimming. There are books which give step-by-step trimming advice, but these alone are not a magic formula, and first hand help is the best. You must learn the difference between a painful, arthritic joint and a dog playing up because it can or is nervous and worried. Learning handling skills is every bit as important as learning the actual clipping. Before you go rushing out to buy expensive grooming equipment, such as clippers, driers, scissors, and more, take a few lessons and watch, watch, watch. It is better to find out if you are suited to the job before spending vast sums of money. Setting up can prove expensive, but the rewards of trimming your own dogs are many. Trimming is a most satisfying and worthwhile experience; if you love it. CLIPPERS Clipping dogs comes easy to some people, while others have to work extremely hard to get good enough results to walk out in the street with the dog, let alone win with their charges in the show ring. The whole procedure becomes less terrifying and less of an ordeal with practice. If you really do not enjoy clipping your Standard Poodle it will probably be better if you take it to the breeder, or the Poodle Parlour. For those with a burning ambition here a few tips to try to help you, although watching a live performance is also essential. All trims require the feet, face, and tail to be clipped so we will deal with these first, before looking at the different trims and how to do them. Firstly, having established that we have a good, solid, stable table, standing in a sensible position, preferably against a wall in a corner, so that the learner trimmer is more effectively in control, and not worried about the dog moving, and falling off the table and hurting itself, we need a good pair of clippers. There are many good clippers on the market today. It is best to buy the best, and I recommend getting in touch with a good grooming equipment outlet for a catalogue to enable you to see what is on offer. Another good way to find out more about grooming is to attend one of the marvellous Grooming Road Shows that go around the country, as advertised in the weekly dog papers, by breed clubs, or on line. Today we have multiple choices, including the cord-free. Your groomer, or breeder, or teacher will have shown you their preference, but if you can visit a grooming seminar or outlet where you can try different make, and shapes, you will be able to decide what is best for you. A light clipper, a more manual type, cord free, interchangeable blades or sliding all in one — variable sizing ones; usually the cheaper versions. Cordless clippers are a great asset, but fairly expensive, electric clippers such as Andis and Oster are popular, light and easy to handle. They have interchangeable blades, and they come with a quick guide to attaching and removing blades, fitting attachments, essential maintenance and important warnings. There are also a videos, and help and advice. For trimming the feet, face and tail you will need a number 10 or 15 blade. Most clippers come with a free No 10 blade. Closer clipping is usually for the show dog, or very thick coated dog. Clippers come with cleaning fluid for the blades, or you may have to purchase this. Each blade should be cleaned after use, and sprayed with a cool-lubricant during use. During use the blade must be checked on your face for heat. With a novice it may take some time to do the clipping, so it is essential to check the blade is not getting too hot to use. It can burn the skin and put the dog off clipping for a long time. Clean the debris off the clipper after use. For the pet dog a winter blade such as the Andis or Mastergroom No 4. And in summer a 5 or 7 can be used on the body, and body and the legs if Sporting style is preferred, depending on thickness of coat. The professional groomer will have many pairs of scissors for different trimming, but for the novice, or pet owner trimming their own dog, one pair will suffice to begin with. Try the different scissors and see which suits you. They are available from retail outlets, at dog shows, and grooming seminars. What is comfortable to one person may be too heavy, too short, too professional or wrong handed. Talk to an expert, professional outlet for advice on what best to start with, before forking out a large sum for something unsuitable, when a reasonably priced pair of scissors will be perfectly adequate. There is a lot of scissor work to be done on a Standard Poodle unless it is cut down in pet trim, and only practise will allow the groomer to achieve a smooth, almost satin finish to the well-cared-for coat. Finishing is an art that some excel in more than others. Different scissors give different finishes and the groomer must try several pairs of scissors in order to find the pair which is right for them. Most sales outlets are happy to help you choose the right type. Scissors vary in price and in order to sustain the outstanding presentation that some groomers achieve, it is imperative to buy quality products, such as clippers, scissors as well as shampoo and finishing sculpture conditioner. It really does make a difference and the investment is worthwhile. Finishing is achieved by literally skimming over the coat with the scissors accurately placed to edge the coat. As the Poodle coat constantly grows and moves, and has a natural tendency to curl, despite straightening conditioners, this finish will not last but still the dog will look expertly smart for the time being. Good scissoring is an art. It is fascinating to watch groomers from different parts of the world scissoring in their own style to achieve perfection. By attending Grooming Seminars you can see this interesting skill in action, and will see that different groomers have their individual styles. Some fluff the hair outwards before commencing scissoring, and some comb it upwards. Some will say one way is the only correct way, but I have seen dogs turned out to sheer perfection both ways. The same goes for how you hold a pair of scissors. There is a correct way of holding scissors, using thumb and fourth finger that will give you more control, once you have mastered it. With all styles, the Poodle will need to have his feet, face and tail clipped. We will deal with this first. There are certain rules to observe. Apart from the feet, always use clippers with the growth of coat. Where the face is concerned, always clip away from the eye. Unless you are experienced using clippers, it is quite likely that you will need time to get round all the delicate clipped parts of the Poodle, so use clipper lubricant frequently, every five minutes or so, and check the blade of the clipper for heat by putting it on your face. As soon as it feels more than a little warm, change the blade, or stop until the blade has cooled. Dogs have been burned with hot blades and it takes a long time for them to regain their confidence. It is best to clip clean hair if possible. As a novice it is better to use a No 10 to start with. It may not leave such a tidy finish, but it is very safe with all colours. THE FEET Nearly all dogs have ticklish feet, so they tend to wriggle or pull the foot away from you when you start clipping their toes. However, they soon get used to it and cooperate well. It is best to hold just above the foot firmly, but do not squeeze. Be sure your dog is standing square and is comfortable before taking up the foot, start right rear, front right, left rear, and left front. This way none get forgotten. Be sure to keep the dogs leg under its body, if you pull it out sideways the dog will automatically try to pull it back, and a battle of your doing with arise. Gentle press the toes apart with your second finger and clip all the hair between the toes. And do take special care no to twist the foot as you clip. It is essential to learn the knack of flexing, or turning your wrist every-which-way in order to complete a neat job of clipping the feet. Clip from the toe nail up to the base of the toe. At first you will probably find this difficult, but with practice it will become second nature, with a bit of luck. Some people never feel easy with clipping. However, most enthusiasts find it satisfying, and calming and you are at one with your dog. Better to leave the clipped area low rather than take too make off and make your dog look as though it has chicken feet. Turn or slightly raise the foot in order to clip underneath the foot. Blade No 10 - 15 or 30 for a closer finish on the dark colours. The show dogs are clipped closer and more frequently with a No 15 or 30, keeping the blade as flat as possible but without putting undue pressure on the skin. The hair should never be clipped so close that it cuts, grazes or damages the skin. White dogs often have more sensitive skin so take this into consideration. Do be careful to tighten any loose skin with your fingers before running over with the clipper. Clip under the eye to the inner corner, then from between the eyes at the stop down to tip of nose. Now clip from under the eye towards the muzzle, to the nose. Repeat on other side of face. Clip the chin from edge of mouth to nose, taking care to tighten loose skin at all times. For the show Poodle the neck is clipped into a U-shape, shaving hair down to an inch or two above the breastbone, depending on style of mane, and emphasis required to show off length of neck. TAIL Stand the dog away from you, or to the side. Clip from the base of the body to a third of the tail length, leaving enough hair on the tail to leave a pom-pom, or plumage. Clip underneath the tail and hygiene area, taking care around the sensitive anus area. No 15 is generally used. Most pet Standard Poodles are in the Sporting trim for ease, comfort and efficiency. Plus it looks elegant and eye-catching. The lamb trim and the sporting trim is the most popular for pet dogs, the sporting trim is now widely seen in many parts of the world. In the show ring over the past few years we have seen a change in trimming. Not all Standard Poodles are shown in the traditional Lion clip. The puppy Lion has become increasingly popular. And more sculptured trimming is seen, sometimes to a degree of exaggeration, it has to be said. Here are some of the more well known trims for show and pet Standard Poodles. Clip from base of head, just beneath the ears, down the top, and underneath of neck. Lift leg and clip under the arm taking care not to catch the loose skin under the arm, and along the chest to the groin. Clip neck to just above shoulder level, along the back to base of tail, and just above the hip, then along and downwards over rib cage to groin. Clip underneath, stomach, groin, carefully taking hair from around nipples and genitals always holding the delicate parts as you go to ensure safety. Brush through remaining hair, trousers, topknot and tail, removing all tangles with slicker brush and wide tooth comb, and where necessary, to prevent causing the dog too much discomfort, the mat-breaker. Anti-tangle conditioner can be used. Bath the dog in a suitable natural enhancing shampoo such as tea tree and lavender oil, or protein coat strengthening formula with consideration to colour and condition of coat. Use a quality conditioner such as sculpture finish, to aid scissoring, or a stay-in conditioner. Blow the coat dry, brushing all the time in sections from bottom of leg upwards, with pin or slicker. Bathing the hair will lift it slightly so tidy any clipped areas where necessary by going over with same depth blade as before. Hem by scissoring round bottom of leg hair. Feet should only barely be seen. Scissor the legs going with the contours of the limbs, using a silhouette line, with scissors pointing downwards or upwards but never crossways apart from when hemming starting from bottom of leg and keeping the line going to the top, then taking the next line and repeating the process, finally skimming across the hair to blend in. Holding muzzle, comb hair forward and scissor topknot across the eye, upwards, comb hair to the left and trim across the top of the ears and back of neck, then repeat on right side. Trim over top taking care to leave a nice top, but being sure the dog can see clearly. Here the feet and face are clipped as usual, and the body clipped with a coarser blade to leave about enough hair to give the appearance of close wool or astrakhan. With No 5 or No 7 blade, clip neck from base of head, down over shoulder, down back to tail, down and along ribcage and under chest, stomach and groin area. Clip back leg, inside and out to an inch above hock joint. Then, with an eye line to balance, clip inside and out of front leg to same level. Bath and dry as for Lamb trim. Scissor the topknot as for Lamb. Comb outwards and scissor bracelets into oval shape. Trim tail as for Lamb. Most Standard Poodles look glamorous in this eye-catching trim. Blade No .Clip under neck to point of breastbone and on top to about 5cm above withers. Taking a direct line and shave a blades width between the shoulders, across withers, continue the line to the base of tail. Clip abdomen from groin to navel and then downwards, incorporating the insides of the thighs. Brush through entire unclipped hair. Bath in suitable shampoo and blow dry as for Lamb. Go over clipped part on body to ensure a tidy finish. Scissor the top and tail as for Lamb. Scissor back legs to neat finish, leaving a pronounced curve at edge of clipped parts. Scissor the front area leaving pronounced curve to clipped area. The feet, face and tail are clipped as normal. The body hair is kept long, but is sculpted with scissors into an attractive shape to enhance the body contours. Fluff up all body hair, and then allow it to fall, or the dog to shake itself. Scissor the coat to an even length all over the body, including the legs. As the coat grows in length, scissor the hair slightly shorter from the base of the tail, gradually blending the hair up towards the body to obtain an effective, easy-on-the-eye, shape. This clip is sometime called the T clip, although it is not strictly as acute as the Scandinavian outline in all countries. For the novice it is a good idea to put a narrow bandage around the dog at just below this point to distinguish an even line and be sure the balance is right. Roughly one third is trimmed shorter while two thirds is left for the mane. Cut with the scissors held straight, up the edge of your line or bandage from the near side, up one side, over body and down the other side. This is more easily achieved when the dog is standing square with its bottom towards you. Scissor back legs to an even length taking in consideration of rear angulations, which are accentuated. Once you are well practised with scissors and have a good eye, using a photograph of a beautifully contoured dog, and copy the up-to-date trimming. Next, flick the mane with the comb, allow the dog to shake and the hair to settle, then scissor round, rather like skimming over the coat, keeping scissors level, to achieve a blend where mane meets shorter back hair to enhance the appearance of a well defined neck. Shape round mane, shaping incline from brisket up towards ear. Scissor the front legs to tubular shape, moulding or sculpturing to blend where they join the mane at elbow. Scissor the tail as for Lamb. This trim takes longer to wash, longer to dry, and a lot longer to scissor to perfection. The scissoring here is artistically demanding. However, when it is carried out by an expert, the result is stunning. It is always advisable to clip the mane in before the back end to make it easier to balance. Usually the dog will have been trimmed into Puppy Lion before this so the mane line will already be taken care of. It is useful to have a photograph of a beautifully turned out Standard Poodle to copy from when first attempting this trim. Clip feet face and tail. Groom, bath, condition and blow the hair dry as for puppy. If you have not already parted the coat behind the rib cage as in Puppy Lion, do this first. It is always advisable to clip the mane in before the back end to make it easier to achieve a good balance. Again, a bandage can be used for forming lines. This is always a good idea as you can tie it around at the given points and move it up or down to achieve a balance before putting your scissors in. Apply the bandage about two inches 10cm above the wrist, the first joint above the foot look to see if this will allow you to scissor a nice oval bracelet. Cut above the bandage line, clip with No 10 up the front leg to remove the hair up to the joint of the elbow. Do not clip over the elbow. Trim bracelet by combing out and tipping ends to an oval shape. It is a good idea to leave the bracelet slightly longer than you think is right, so that you can look at your work and take off more if necessary. Scissor round bottom of mane to achieve a ball finish, curved scissors are good for this job. It will take time and patience to learn this art, but it will come with practice. Again it is useful to have a photograph to copy from. Now for the tricky part! Again, it is a good idea to use a bandage about one inch thick to help guide your cutting lines. Feel for hock joint first joint above back foot and apply the bandage about one inch above. Feel for knee joint and apply second bandage just above to define. Stand back and check that there is a good balance between the three defined points. Move the bandage slightly up or down until you feel happy that the dog looks right. With the scissors, cut a thin line above the bandage. These points can be carefully clipped, or more defined with scissors. When starting on the other leg do check that your lines correspond from behind. Be careful not to make your scissor or clipped lines too wide as this may completely spoil your finished picture. Comb hair upwards and allow it to settle. Scissor each section to a smooth rounded finish. The pack over loin and hip can be trimmed evenly to a length of about an inch. Poetry in motion is what you are trying to achieve. This trim is far from being easy and takes much practice to get right. Scissor the tail. In England this trim is less seen now than it used to be, as our Kennel Club does not demand it. Certainly it takes less time than the Traditional or Puppy, but there is still a lot of work here to make it as beautiful as it should look. This trim is mostly seen on the Standard Poodle, though favoured in countries such as Japan in all three sizes, but is not popular with the general public as it is rather revelling. Clip feet, face and tail, bath, condition and blow the hair dry as for Puppy. Cut in front end mane as for Lion, including scissoring to finish. For beginners it is a good idea to place a saucer on the hip joint to define a rosette. Take the scissors and cut round the saucer. Remove the saucer and you will reveal a large rosette. Depending on whether the dog is longer in back than it should be, or perfectly proportioned the saucer can be moved backward or forward to achieve the best balance before cutting commences. With No 10 blade, start clipping from a position just above the hock joint and clip up to your newly made rosette. Clip round this being careful not to clip the rosette itself. Clip the narrow area between the end of mane and the rosette. Lifting hair with comb, scissor round rosette to achieve a smart round puff of hair. Trim tail as for other trims. Pet owners almost invariably skimp on brushing their dogs which then come into the grooming salon every six weeks or so with mats and tangles in their coat. Once upon a time, the only considerate and kind way to deal with such felted mats was to get underneath the mat with a fine blade and clip it off. Now, with some conditioning spray, combs and mat-breakers, the groomer has a wider choice and more capacity to sort out a neglected coat. But still, the prime consideration must be to the dog, and if the best solution is to clip off the coat then this must be done. It will grow again. If you brush and comb your Standard Poodle on a regular basis his coat will always look smart, even after a dig in the garden or getting thoroughly muddy, once dry the coat will brush out marvellously. If you are growing the coat to show your Poodle, new grooming techniques will have to be employed. If you want to show then it is essential for you to be able to bath and clip and groom your Poodle yourself, otherwise the procedure will be very expensive. Trimming a pet is one thing, turning out a show dog is something else, and takes many people years to perfect. Luckily Poodle people are generally very kind and helpful. Breeders and expert trimmers can and do help novice exhibitors with their trimming. The best advice is to watch, listen and learn. In time you will, hopefully, be trimming as well as the best. It is a good idea to have a professional photograph of a dog in show trim on the wall when you start scissoring the mane and legs of your Poodle, and try to copy it. Remember no artist ever painted a masterpiece the first time he picked up a paintbrush. It will take time, sweat and tears to perfect scissoring skills, unless you are extremely blessed. Your Poodle show dog will need brushing everyday, or at least three or four times a week, depending on its individual coat and whether or not it is at the age between ten and fourteen months when it is changing its coat from puppy to adult. If you brush the dog every day your task of growing the coat will be easier. Brush carefully each strand of hair. To do this lay your Poodle on its side, start brushing at the bottom of the ribcage, part layers with a tail comb or your fingers and brush the hair downwards. Brush each layer until you reach the spine; include the neck hair, top and ears. The turn your dog over and start the other side. I often do this sitting on the floor watching television, the dog relaxed in front of me. If you have attended shows you will have seen Poodles being groomed this way. All dogs are thoroughly groomed before they go into the show ring. De-matting - tangles that have formed overnight on a dog going through a coat change, needs care. Often it is more beneficial to split the hair with your fingers. Wet hair is more pliable and not quite so susceptible to breakage. Comb with a wide tooth comb, never a fine one. Use a good conditioner if the coat is dry. Spray-in conditioners are good and can be used at any time. Spray from the bottom of the ribcage up, parting the hair as you go to ensure all the layers are conditioned and the solution has not just run over the top. When preparing a coat for the show ring, use the conditioner without oil and rinse. Show dogs must have their fun regardless of coat. Exercise is essential to a healthy life. Bones are essential to clean healthy teeth. The topknot can be protected with a snood. Consider what you are spraying into and around your dogs face, nose and mouth. Some sprays and lacquers are toxic. This will be good practice for later on — for both of you! Yes, haircuts are essential for Poodles. Their thick, long, curly coats are prone to tangling and trapping debris. When will my Poodle puppy need haircuts? Then, at around four months old, they will shed their puppy coats and start to grow out their rougher adult coats. Frequency As a general rule, Poodles should have their coats clipped every weeks once their adult coats grow out, whatever your desired length. This is because they grow so quickly and can become matted just as fast! What equipment should I use? There are three main types of dog grooming scissors; straight scissors, curved scissors, and thinning shears, and they all perform slightly differently. Straight grooming scissors are a multi-task tool, they have straight blades for general, basic grooming, creating straight lines in the coat, and adding the finishing touches to haircuts. Curved dog grooming shear has a curved blade that can be used to fine-tune and shape specific areas of the coat, such as the paws and hindquarters. Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other, and there are also double thinners that have teeth on both blades. They are designed to remove lots of hair in even sections for a natural finish, and they can also be used to blend out the harsh lines from clippers and texturize the coat. Or, if you just need something for the occasional touch-up between visits to the groomer, a simple pair of electrical motor clippers will do just fine. Electric motor clippers are also good for keeping short coats short. You should also be aware of the types of blades that come with clippers. The higher the number of the blade, the more hair that it will remove. Or, you can get guards that fit a single blade to customize the length, which is a lot more convenient. Start by showing them the equipment and getting them used to the sight and sound of it before you cut any hair. Reward them just for being around it and then try cutting a small section of hair. If they react well, reward them again, and then do another section. Keep rewarding them as you go and again after the haircut is finished. Do it in a well-lit, comfortable part of the home that your pup can stand up in. Once you get them into a routine — keep it up! Work your way down the legs first, then from the neck to the hindquarters, or vice versa, and then the tail. Take care with the feet, underside, and head, shielding their eyes from falling fur. Use long strokes and go from the neck down to the back legs. How to deal with grooming anxiety If your pup is afraid of the scissors or clippers, take it really slowly and try to make it an enjoyable experience. You can do this by breaking up the haircut into smaller sessions to make it less stressful and taking breaks in between each one. Give your dog lots of praise and a reward every time you take a break and ask another family member to comfort them during the haircut. You can start brushing your Poodle from any age. To brush them, simply go in the direction of hair growth using short strokes. Hold the fur at the base with your free hand to remove knots, and use a mat remover for any stubborn mats. Bathing a Poodle puppy As for bathing, you should give your Poodle pup their first proper bath at months old to help them shed their puppy coat, unless they get seriously dirty before that. However, you can give your pup a bath any time after weeks of age to get them used to the sensation, but avoid overbathing them, as this will strip the fur of its natural oils and make it dry and brittle. Once they have their adult coats, your Poodle pup will need a bath once a month. You can even buy shampoo that is designed especially for Poodle coats. To give your Poodle a bath, lather up their wet fur with the shampoo, massage it in, leave it for as long as directed on the bottle, and rinse thoroughly. Follow up with conditioner if necessary. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.